EP1825773B1 - Procédé de sertissage de pierres dans un élément support - Google Patents

Procédé de sertissage de pierres dans un élément support Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1825773B1
EP1825773B1 EP06110493A EP06110493A EP1825773B1 EP 1825773 B1 EP1825773 B1 EP 1825773B1 EP 06110493 A EP06110493 A EP 06110493A EP 06110493 A EP06110493 A EP 06110493A EP 1825773 B1 EP1825773 B1 EP 1825773B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stones
holes
groove
support element
grains
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP06110493A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1825773A1 (fr
Inventor
Alan Apprederisse
Johnny Buehler
Lionel A Marca
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Blancpain SA
Original Assignee
Blancpain SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to ES06110493T priority Critical patent/ES2317419T3/es
Application filed by Blancpain SA filed Critical Blancpain SA
Priority to DE602006003522T priority patent/DE602006003522D1/de
Priority to AT06110493T priority patent/ATE413109T1/de
Priority to EP06110493A priority patent/EP1825773B1/fr
Priority to US11/676,689 priority patent/US7971326B2/en
Priority to CNB2007100843661A priority patent/CN100553517C/zh
Priority to KR1020070020071A priority patent/KR101236564B1/ko
Priority to JP2007048804A priority patent/JP4896771B2/ja
Publication of EP1825773A1 publication Critical patent/EP1825773A1/fr
Priority to HK08102262.9A priority patent/HK1111319A1/xx
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1825773B1 publication Critical patent/EP1825773B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49579—Watch or clock making
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49579—Watch or clock making
    • Y10T29/49583—Watch or clock making having indicia, face, or dial
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49579—Watch or clock making
    • Y10T29/49586—Watch or clock making having crown, stem, or pendent
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588—Jewelry or locket making

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of setting precious or semi-precious stones on a metal support element to produce pieces decorated with stones for jewelery and watchmaking.
  • the invention more particularly relates to a method of crimping stones with grains in which the grains are not visible from above the decorated part.
  • the method of the invention is particularly suitable for producing dials set with a plurality of rows of stones, for timepieces.
  • Jewelery and watchmaking are known various techniques for crimping a plurality of precious stones on metal support elements (see for example the document US-A-3,365,877 ).
  • a conventional method is to drill holes on the surface of the support member whose edges are flared to form a bearing, to arrange the stones in the holes so that the yoke of each stone rests on the range of each hole and then to immobilize the stones in the holes by embossing the material of the support element to form a lip covering the contour of the stone.
  • the stones are retained by grains made with the support element and pushed back on the stone to form small claws which ensure the retention of the stones on the support element.
  • This crimping process has the disadvantage of deforming the material of the support element on the side of the decorated face so that it is not appropriate if one wishes to give a clean and unified appearance to a surface decorated with precious stones reported .
  • This method is not particularly suitable if it is desired to produce decorated surfaces with a plurality of rows of stones aligned in various directions and in which the appearance of the material of the support element is not affected by the means of retaining stones.
  • the main object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the above-mentioned prior art by providing a method of crimping a plurality of stones on a support element in which the means for retaining the stones on the support element are not visible. from the decorated surface of the latter and this without altering neither the development of the set stones nor the quality of fixing the stones on the support element.
  • the present invention also aims to provide such a method wherein the material of the support element on the side of the decorated face is not deformed to achieve the fixing of the stones.
  • the present invention also aims to provide such a method wherein the element can be easily prepared in advance by automatic machining means.
  • the method of the invention provides a simple and economical solution to achieve this, in particular by implementing a minimum of steps, and by simplifying these steps. steps.
  • the width of the groove is substantially equal to or greater than the diameter of the holes at the point where the holes open into the groove and the holes are centered on the groove.
  • the present invention further provides grooves whose width varies and may also extend along varied lines of curvature thereby providing a wide choice of stone arrangement geometries to the decorated surface of the support member. .
  • a support element 1 having the shape of a metal plate for example of gray gold 150 of a few millimeters of thickness typically 1 mm and intended for the realization of a dial 2 for a timepiece.
  • the support element 1 conventionally comprises a hole 4 for the passage of the needles (not shown).
  • the support element 1 further comprises, according to the method of the invention, at least one groove 6 made for example by milling into the surface 8 which will form the decorated surface of the dial 2.
  • the groove 6 is rectilinear and has a constant width, however, it goes without saying that, depending on the appearance of the desired decorated surface, the groove 6 may extend along a curved line with a fixed or variable width for example with a width flaring from one end to the other.
  • the support element is seen after a second step of the crimping method according to the invention in which a plurality of holes or holes 10 have been made from the opposite face 12 to the decorated face of the support element 1 with the aid of FIG. a tool O.
  • the holes 10 are made so that they open into the groove 6 and form a row of holes according to the groove 6.
  • the diameters of the holes 10 are slightly greater than the diameters of the sheets of the stones they are intended to receive. Depending on the desired aesthetic effect, the holes 10 may of course have each different diameters.
  • the holes 10 according to the method of the invention are made so that the bottom of each hole forms a support wall 14 for the crown of the stone they are intended to receive.
  • this support wall 14 is a surface inclined relative to the plane of the support member 1 whose inclination substantially corresponds to the inclination of the stone crown that the hole is intended to receive.
  • a tool O whose tip has a corresponding apex angle.
  • the bores 10 are separated from each other by material bridges 16 ( figure 3a ) so as not to disadvantageously decrease the rigidity of the support member 1.
  • the width of the groove 6 is substantially smaller than the diameter of the holes 10 at the point where they open into the groove and the holes 10 will be centered on the axis A of groove 6
  • the Figures 3a and 3b illustrate the next step of the crimping method according to the invention.
  • This step consists in digging lodges or countershells 18 opening into the bores 10 in the surface 12 of the support element 1 by means of a cutting tool such as a burr, to lift grains 20 from the bottom 22 boxes 18 and if necessary to touch the grains 20 to facilitate the subsequent placement of stones in the holes.
  • the grains 20 will be used later to maintain the stones in the holes 10.
  • the grains 20 are two in number per hole 10 and are arranged diametrically opposite to the bore 10. The number of grains can of course vary, in particular depending on the size of the stones and the density of stones on the support element 1.
  • the diameter in which the two grains 20 are arranged will be inclined with respect to the direction transverse to the direction of the groove at the location of the bores 10.
  • the figure 4a represents the support element 1 in which the stones 24 have been placed in the holes 10 but before the final fixing operation in the support element 1.
  • the stones 24 are then immobilized in their piercing 10 during a rounding step in which the grains 20 are pushed against the bolt 28 of each stone as shown in FIG. figure 4b .
  • This operation is performed using a classic tool called perloir.
  • the table 30 and a portion of the crown 26 of each stone is then visible on the face 12 of the dial 2.
  • the height of the stones beyond the face 8 can easily be adjusted by playing on the depth of grooves and / or holes
  • the method of the invention thus makes it possible to obtain objects decorated with crimped stones in which the stone retaining means on the object are not on the side of the decorated face.
  • FIG. 5 to 8 a dial 32 for a timepiece set with stones according to the method of the invention.
  • the dial 32 comprises two rows of crimped stones 24a, namely a first row formed of a plurality of stones of substantially the same size arranged along a rectilinear groove 6a of constant width and a second row formed of a plurality of stones 24b of increasing sizes arranged along a groove 6b whose width increases correspondingly to that of the stones.
  • elements identical to those described in connection with the preceding figures are designated by the same reference numerals

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
  • Mechanical Treatment Of Semiconductor (AREA)
  • Crystals, And After-Treatments Of Crystals (AREA)
  • Flanged Joints, Insulating Joints, And Other Joints (AREA)
  • Grinding Of Cylindrical And Plane Surfaces (AREA)
EP06110493A 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Procédé de sertissage de pierres dans un élément support Active EP1825773B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (9)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE602006003522T DE602006003522D1 (de) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Verfahren zum Einfassen von Steinen in einem Trägerelement
AT06110493T ATE413109T1 (de) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Verfahren zum einfassen von steinen in einem trägerelement
EP06110493A EP1825773B1 (fr) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Procédé de sertissage de pierres dans un élément support
ES06110493T ES2317419T3 (es) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Procedimiento de engarce de piedras en un elemento soporte.
US11/676,689 US7971326B2 (en) 2006-02-28 2007-02-20 Method of setting stones in a support element
CNB2007100843661A CN100553517C (zh) 2006-02-28 2007-02-27 在支持件中安置石块的方法
KR1020070020071A KR101236564B1 (ko) 2006-02-28 2007-02-28 지지 요소 내에 보석을 세팅하는 방법
JP2007048804A JP4896771B2 (ja) 2006-02-28 2007-02-28 支持要素に石を嵌め込む方法
HK08102262.9A HK1111319A1 (en) 2006-02-28 2008-02-28 Method of setting stones in a support element

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06110493A EP1825773B1 (fr) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Procédé de sertissage de pierres dans un élément support

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1825773A1 EP1825773A1 (fr) 2007-08-29
EP1825773B1 true EP1825773B1 (fr) 2008-11-05

Family

ID=36644811

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06110493A Active EP1825773B1 (fr) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Procédé de sertissage de pierres dans un élément support

Country Status (9)

Country Link
US (1) US7971326B2 (ja)
EP (1) EP1825773B1 (ja)
JP (1) JP4896771B2 (ja)
KR (1) KR101236564B1 (ja)
CN (1) CN100553517C (ja)
AT (1) ATE413109T1 (ja)
DE (1) DE602006003522D1 (ja)
ES (1) ES2317419T3 (ja)
HK (1) HK1111319A1 (ja)

Families Citing this family (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101456332B (zh) * 2008-10-21 2012-05-09 Kywc有限公司 一种在脆性非金属板料上镶石的方法
GB2471712A (en) * 2009-07-10 2011-01-12 De Beers Centenary AG Gemstone alignment system
EP2653939B1 (fr) * 2012-04-20 2017-08-30 ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse Cadran pour pièce d'horlogerie
CH707581B1 (fr) * 2013-02-08 2020-01-15 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Pièce pour l'horlogerie et procédé de fabrication d'une telle pièce.
DE102014016677B4 (de) 2014-11-12 2016-06-30 Alexander Wilser GmbH Schließe und Herstellverfahren
CN104859356B (zh) * 2015-05-27 2018-06-05 依波精品（深圳）有限公司 一种手表表面镶嵌钻石的方法及手表
EP3479720B1 (fr) * 2017-11-07 2020-03-25 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Procede de sertissage d'une pierre
EP3479721B1 (fr) * 2017-11-07 2020-05-13 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Procede de sertissage d'une pierre
CN109014248B (zh) * 2018-10-11 2020-04-03 上海车功坊智能科技股份有限公司 一种半自动化和自动化汽车轮毂表面拉丝方法
EP4442152A1 (fr) * 2023-04-06 2024-10-09 Rolex Sa Support pour une piece d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie comprenant le support et un insert decoratif

Family Cites Families (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR838817A (fr) 1937-06-03 1939-03-16 Ets Ringhoffer Tatra Sa Dispositif pour l'aération de l'intérieur d'une carrosserie de forme aérodynamique, en particulier pour automobiles à moteur à l'arrière
FR835817A (fr) * 1937-11-20 1939-01-04 Procédé de sertissage des pierres précieuses
US3365877A (en) * 1965-12-06 1968-01-30 Robert Altman Inc Article of jewelry having an unfurlable cover
FR1506317A (fr) * 1966-04-28 1967-12-22 Procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses, dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et produits résultant de l'application du procédé
JPS5444980A (en) 1977-09-14 1979-04-09 Jiyueru Japan Kk Jewel mount and making method thereof
FR2579085B1 (fr) * 1985-03-21 1987-07-03 Diamant Applic Procedes de fabrication de bijoux comportant une ou plusieurs rangees de pierres et bijoux obtenus par ces procedes
FR2580155B1 (fr) * 1985-04-12 1987-07-10 Diamant Applic Procedes de fabrication mecanisee de bijoux comportant une pluralite de petites pierres jointives enchassees dans un support en metal precieux et bijoux obtenus par ce procede
JPS629914A (ja) * 1985-07-09 1987-01-17 株式会社東芝 半導体素子の分離方法
GB2181939B (en) * 1985-10-31 1989-01-11 M A Kutchinsky Limited Dress watch
JPS62116913A (ja) * 1985-11-18 1987-05-28 Sanyo Electric Co Ltd 光軸調整機構
FR2593039B1 (fr) * 1986-01-17 1988-04-29 Diamant Applic Procedes de fabrication mecanisee de bijoux comportant une pluralite de petites pierres jointives enchassees dans un support en metal et bijoux obtenus par ce procede.
DE8601026U1 (de) * 1986-01-17 1986-02-27 Atelier Bunz GmbH, 75335 Dobel Fassung für einen Edelstein
DE59207897D1 (de) * 1992-03-26 1997-02-27 Mks Vermoegensverwaltung Gebr Schmucksteinfassung
FR2792508B1 (fr) * 1999-04-21 2001-07-27 Clerc Sa Procede de sertissage a grains de pierres molles dans une piece en metal dur
ITMI20012503A1 (it) 2001-11-29 2003-05-29 Stilnovo S R L Castone per pietre preziose e relativo metodo di incassatura
KR20050067640A (ko) * 2003-12-29 2005-07-05 노치원 집보석 제조방법

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN101028147A (zh) 2007-09-05
KR101236564B1 (ko) 2013-02-22
DE602006003522D1 (de) 2008-12-18
US20070204463A1 (en) 2007-09-06
US7971326B2 (en) 2011-07-05
ATE413109T1 (de) 2008-11-15
ES2317419T3 (es) 2009-04-16
HK1111319A1 (en) 2008-08-08
EP1825773A1 (fr) 2007-08-29
JP4896771B2 (ja) 2012-03-14
CN100553517C (zh) 2009-10-28
KR20070089634A (ko) 2007-08-31
JP2007232724A (ja) 2007-09-13

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