EP1825773A1 - Method for setting a gem in a support element - Google Patents

Method for setting a gem in a support element Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1825773A1
EP1825773A1 EP06110493A EP06110493A EP1825773A1 EP 1825773 A1 EP1825773 A1 EP 1825773A1 EP 06110493 A EP06110493 A EP 06110493A EP 06110493 A EP06110493 A EP 06110493A EP 1825773 A1 EP1825773 A1 EP 1825773A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
holes
stones
groove
grains
face
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP06110493A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1825773B1 (en
Inventor
Alan Apprederisse
Johnny Buehler
Lionel A Marca
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Blancpain SA
Original Assignee
Blancpain SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to EP06110493A priority Critical patent/EP1825773B1/en
Application filed by Blancpain SA filed Critical Blancpain SA
Priority to AT06110493T priority patent/ATE413109T1/en
Priority to ES06110493T priority patent/ES2317419T3/en
Priority to DE602006003522T priority patent/DE602006003522D1/en
Priority to US11/676,689 priority patent/US7971326B2/en
Priority to CNB2007100843661A priority patent/CN100553517C/en
Priority to KR1020070020071A priority patent/KR101236564B1/en
Priority to JP2007048804A priority patent/JP4896771B2/en
Publication of EP1825773A1 publication Critical patent/EP1825773A1/en
Priority to HK08102262.9A priority patent/HK1111319A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1825773B1 publication Critical patent/EP1825773B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49579—Watch or clock making
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49579—Watch or clock making
    • Y10T29/49583—Watch or clock making having indicia, face, or dial
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49579—Watch or clock making
    • Y10T29/49586—Watch or clock making having crown, stem, or pendent
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/49—Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588—Jewelry or locket making

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of setting precious or semi-precious stones on a metal support element to produce pieces decorated with stones for jewelery and watchmaking.
  • the invention more particularly relates to a method of crimping stones with grains in which the grains are not visible from above the decorated part.
  • the method of the invention is particularly suitable for producing dials set with a plurality of rows of stones, for timepieces.
  • Jewelery and watchmaking are known various techniques for crimping a plurality of precious stones on metal support elements.
  • a conventional method is to drill holes on the surface of the support member whose edges are flared to form a bearing, to arrange the stones in the holes so that the yoke of each stone rests on the range of each hole and then to immobilize the stones in the holes by embossing the material of the support element to form a lip covering the contour of the stone.
  • the stones are retained by grains made with the support element and pushed back on the stone to form small claws which ensure the retention of the stones on the support element.
  • This crimping process has the disadvantage of deforming the material of the support element on the side of the decorated face so that it is not appropriate if one wishes to give a clean and unified appearance to a surface decorated with precious stones reported .
  • This method is not particularly suitable if it is desired to produce decorated surfaces with a plurality of rows of stones aligned in various directions and in which the appearance of the material of the support element is not affected by the means of retaining stones.
  • the main object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the above-mentioned prior art by providing a method of crimping a plurality of stones on a support element in which the means for retaining the stones on the support element are not visible. from the decorated surface of the latter and this without altering neither the development of the set stones nor the quality of fixing the stones on the support element.
  • the present invention also aims to provide such a method wherein the material of the support element on the side of the decorated face is not deformed to achieve the fixing of the stones.
  • the present invention also aims to provide such a method wherein the element can be easily prepared in advance by automatic machining means.
  • the method of the invention provides a simple and economical solution to achieve this, in particular by implementing a minimum of steps, and by simplifying these steps. steps.
  • the width of the groove is substantially equal to or greater than the diameter of the holes at the point where the holes open into the groove and the holes are centered on the groove.
  • the present invention further provides grooves whose width varies and may also extend along varied lines of curvature thereby providing a wide choice of stone arrangement geometries to the decorated surface of the support member. .
  • a support member 1 having the shape of a metal plate for example of gray gold 150 a few millimeters thick typically 1 mm and intended for the realization of a dial 2 for a room of watchmaking.
  • the support element 1 conventionally comprises a hole 4 for the passage of the needles (not shown).
  • the support element 1 further comprises, according to the method of the invention, at least one groove 6 made for example by milling into the surface 8 which will form the decorated surface of the dial 2.
  • the groove 6 is rectilinear and has a constant width, however, it goes without saying that, depending on the appearance of the desired decorated surface, the groove 6 may extend along a curved line with a fixed or variable width for example with a width flaring from one end to the other.
  • the support element is seen after a second step of the crimping method according to the invention in which a plurality of holes or holes 10 have been made from the opposite face 12 to the decorated face of the element. 1 with the aid of a tool O.
  • the holes 10 are made so that they open into the groove 6 and form a row of holes according to the groove 6.
  • the diameters of the holes 10 are slightly greater than the diameters of the laminates stones that they are destined to receive. Depending on the desired aesthetic effect, the holes 10 may of course have each different diameters.
  • the holes 10 according to the method of the invention are made so that the bottom of each hole forms a support wall 14 for the crown of the stone they are intended to receive.
  • this support wall 14 is a surface inclined relative to the plane of the support member 1 whose inclination substantially corresponds to the inclination of the stone crown that the hole is intended to receive.
  • a tool O whose tip has a corresponding apex angle.
  • the bores 10 are separated from each other by material bridges 16 (FIG. 3a) in order not to decrease the rigidity of the support element adversely 1.
  • the width of the groove 6 is substantially smaller than the diameter of the holes 10 at the point where they open into the groove and the holes 10 will be centered on the axis A of the groove 6
  • FIGS 3a and 3b illustrate the next step of the crimping method according to the invention.
  • This step consists in digging lodges or countershells 18 opening into the bores 10 in the surface 12 of the support element 1 by means of a cutting tool such as a burr, to lift grains 20 from the bottom 22 boxes 18 and if necessary to touch the grains 20 to facilitate the subsequent placement of stones in the holes.
  • the grains 20 will be used later to maintain the stones in the holes 10.
  • the grains 20 are two in number per hole 10 and are arranged diametrically opposite to the bore 10. The number of grains can of course vary, in particular depending on the size of the stones and the density of stones on the support element 1.
  • the diameter in which the two grains 20 are arranged will be inclined with respect to the direction transverse to the direction of the groove at the location of the bores 10.
  • FIG. 4a shows the support element 1 in which the stones 24 have been put in place in the bores 10 but before the final fixing operation in the support element 1.
  • the diameter of each piercing corresponds to the diameter of the leaflet of the stone that it is intended to receive
  • the stones 24 are then immobilized in their drilling 10 during a rounding step in which the grains 20 are pushed against the yoke 28 of each stone as shown in Figure 4b.
  • This operation is performed using a classic tool called perloir.
  • the table 30 and a portion of the crown 26 of each stone is then visible on the face 12 of the dial 2.
  • the height of the stones beyond the face 8 can easily be adjusted by playing on the depth of grooves and / or holes
  • the method of the invention thus makes it possible to obtain objects decorated with crimped stones in which the stone retaining means on the object are not on the side of the decorated face.
  • FIGS. 5 to 8 show a dial 32 for a timepiece set with stones according to the method of the invention.
  • the dial 32 comprises two rows of crimped stones 24a, namely a first row formed of a plurality of stones of substantially the same size arranged along a rectilinear groove 6a of constant width and a second row formed of a plurality of stones 24b of increasing sizes arranged along a groove 6b whose width increases correspondingly to that of the stones.
  • elements identical to those described in connection with the preceding figures are designated by the same reference numerals

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
  • Grinding Of Cylindrical And Plane Surfaces (AREA)
  • Mechanical Treatment Of Semiconductor (AREA)
  • Crystals, And After-Treatments Of Crystals (AREA)
  • Flanged Joints, Insulating Joints, And Other Joints (AREA)

Abstract

The procedure consists of milling one or more grooves (6a, 6b) in an outer supporting surface such as a watch face (8) of white gold typically 1 mm thick and drilling holes to receive the stones from the back of the supporting surface, leaving a rim that retains the edge of each stone. The stones are then fixed in place by beads of material cut and pressed from the inner walls of the holes against the stones' rear faces. The axes of the holes are aligned with the centres of the grooves, which can have a constant or variable width.

Description

La présente invention concerne un procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses ou semi précieuses sur un élément support en métal pour produire des pièces décorées de pierres pour la bijouterie et l'horlogerie. L'invention concerne plus particulièrement un procédé de sertissage de pierres à l'aide de grains dans lequel les grains ne sont pas visibles depuis le dessus de la pièce décorée. Le procédé de l'invention est particulièrement adapté à la réalisation de cadrans sertis d'une pluralité de rangées de pierres, pour pièces d'horlogerie.The present invention relates to a method of setting precious or semi-precious stones on a metal support element to produce pieces decorated with stones for jewelery and watchmaking. The invention more particularly relates to a method of crimping stones with grains in which the grains are not visible from above the decorated part. The method of the invention is particularly suitable for producing dials set with a plurality of rows of stones, for timepieces.

On connaît dans les domaines de la bijouterie et de l'horlogerie diverses techniques de sertissage d'une pluralité de pierres précieuses sur des éléments support en métal.Jewelery and watchmaking are known various techniques for crimping a plurality of precious stones on metal support elements.

Un procédé classique consiste à percer à la surface de l'élément support des trous dont les bords sont évasés pour former une portée, à disposer les pierres dans les trous de manière que la culasse de chaque pierre repose sur la portée de chaque trou puis à immobiliser les pierres dans les trous par repoussage de la matière de l'élément support pour former une lèvre recouvrant le contour de la pierre. Selon une variante de ce procédé, les pierres sont retenues par des grains venus de fabrication avec l'élément support et repoussés sur la pierre pour former des petites griffes qui assurent la retenue des pierres sur l'élément support.A conventional method is to drill holes on the surface of the support member whose edges are flared to form a bearing, to arrange the stones in the holes so that the yoke of each stone rests on the range of each hole and then to immobilize the stones in the holes by embossing the material of the support element to form a lip covering the contour of the stone. According to a variant of this method, the stones are retained by grains made with the support element and pushed back on the stone to form small claws which ensure the retention of the stones on the support element.

Ce procédé de sertissage présente l'inconvénient de déformer la matière de l'élément support du coté de la face décorée de sorte qu'il ne convient pas si l'on désire donner un aspect épuré et uni à une surface décorée de pierres précieuses rapportées. Ce procédé n'est notamment pas adapté si l'on souhaite réaliser des surfaces décorées d'une pluralité de rangées de pierres alignées selon diverses directions et dans lesquelles l'aspect de la matière de l'élément support n'est pas affecté par les moyens de retenue des pierres.This crimping process has the disadvantage of deforming the material of the support element on the side of the decorated face so that it is not appropriate if one wishes to give a clean and unified appearance to a surface decorated with precious stones reported . This method is not particularly suitable if it is desired to produce decorated surfaces with a plurality of rows of stones aligned in various directions and in which the appearance of the material of the support element is not affected by the means of retaining stones.

La présente invention a pour but principal de remédier aux inconvénients de l'art antérieur susmentionné en fournissant un procédé de sertissage d'une pluralité de pierres sur un élément support dans lequel les moyens de retenue des pierres sur l'élément support ne sont pas visibles depuis la surface décorée de ce dernier et ceci sans altérer ni la mise en valeur des pierres serties ni la qualité de la fixation des pierres sur l'élément support.The main object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the above-mentioned prior art by providing a method of crimping a plurality of stones on a support element in which the means for retaining the stones on the support element are not visible. from the decorated surface of the latter and this without altering neither the development of the set stones nor the quality of fixing the stones on the support element.

La présente invention a également pour but de fournir un tel procédé dans lequel la matière de l'élément support du côté de la face décorée n'est pas déformée pour réaliser la fixation des pierres.The present invention also aims to provide such a method wherein the material of the support element on the side of the decorated face is not deformed to achieve the fixing of the stones.

La présente invention a également pour but de fournir un tel procédé dans lequel l'élément peut être aisément préparé à l'avance par des moyens d'usinage automatiques.The present invention also aims to provide such a method wherein the element can be easily prepared in advance by automatic machining means.

A cet effet, l'invention a pour objet un procédé de sertissage d'une pluralité de pierres présentant chacune une culasse, une couronne et un feuilletis dans un élément support en métal comprenant les étapes consistant à :

  • fraiser au moins une rainure sur une première face de l'élément support dite face décorée ;
  • percer depuis une deuxième face de l'élément support, opposée à ladite première face, une pluralité de trous ayant chacun un diamètre correspondant sensiblement au diamètre du feuilletis de la pierre que ces trous sont destiné à recevoir, de manière que chaque trou débouche dans ladite au moins une rainure et que chaque fond de trou forme une paroi d'appui pour la couronne de la pierre ;
  • former des grains dans la deuxième face de l'élément support au voisinage des parois d'appui ;
  • mettre en place les pierres dans les trous de manière que la couronne de chaque pierre vienne buter contre la paroi d'appui de son trou ; et
  • pousser les grains contre la culasse de chaque pierre afin de fixer les pierres dans ledit élément support et former une rangée de pierres serties.
To this end, the subject of the invention is a method of crimping a plurality of stones each having a yoke, a crown and a laminate in a metal support member comprising the steps of:
  • milling at least one groove on a first face of the support member said decorated face;
  • piercing from a second face of the support member, opposed to said first face, a plurality of holes each having a diameter substantially corresponding to the diameter of the laminate of the stone that these holes are intended to receive, so that each hole opens into said at least one groove and that each bottom of the hole forms a bearing wall for the stone crown;
  • forming grains in the second face of the support element in the vicinity of the support walls;
  • put the stones in the holes so that the crown of each stone abuts against the wall of support of its hole; and
  • push the grains against the cylinder head of each stone to fix the stones in said support element and form a row of crimped stones.

Grâce à ce procédé, la matière de la face décorée de l'élément support se trouvant au voisinage des pierres n'est pas déformée et conserve un aspect propre, lisse. De plus, la présence de la rainure souligne l'alignement des pierres augmentant ainsi l'esthétique de l'ensemble de la pièce décorée. On notera également que ce procédé permet d'éliminer les opérations de finition telles que l'ébavurage et le polissage de l'élément support dans la zone des grains dans la mesure où cette zone n'est plus visible du côté de la face décorée de l'élément support.With this method, the material of the decorated face of the support element in the vicinity of the stones is not deformed and retains a clean, smooth appearance. In addition, the presence of the groove emphasizes the alignment of the stones thus increasing the aesthetics of the entire decorated room. It will also be noted that this method makes it possible to eliminate finishing operations such as deburring and polishing of the support element in the grain zone since this zone is no longer visible on the side of the decorated face of the support element.

On note aussi que, lorsque l'on souhaite réaliser un alignement de pierres dans une rainure, le procédé de l'invention fournit une solution simple et économique pour y parvenir, notamment en mettant en oeuvre un minimum d'étapes, et en simplifiant ces étapes.It is also noted that, when it is desired to achieve alignment of stones in a groove, the method of the invention provides a simple and economical solution to achieve this, in particular by implementing a minimum of steps, and by simplifying these steps. steps.

Selon un mode de réalisation préféré de mise en oeuvre de l'invention, la largeur de la rainure est sensiblement égale ou supérieure au diamètre des trous à l'endroit où débouchent les trous dans la rainure et les trous sont centrés sur la rainure. De plus on prévoit de séparer les trous les uns des autres par des ponts de matière pour conserver une rigidité suffisante de l'élément support, et ce notamment lorsque l'élément support comprend une pluralité de rangées de pierres serties pour former par exemple un cadran de montre. La présente invention permet en outre de réaliser des rainures dont la largeur varie et pouvant également s'étendre le long de lignes de courbures variées ce qui offre ainsi un grand choix de géométries d'arrangement de pierres à la surface décorée de l'élément support.According to a preferred embodiment of implementation of the invention, the width of the groove is substantially equal to or greater than the diameter of the holes at the point where the holes open into the groove and the holes are centered on the groove. In addition it is planned to separate the holes from each other by bridges of material for maintaining a sufficient rigidity of the support element, and in particular when the support element comprises a plurality of rows of stones crimped to form for example a watch face. The present invention further provides grooves whose width varies and may also extend along varied lines of curvature thereby providing a wide choice of stone arrangement geometries to the decorated surface of the support member. .

D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de la présente invention apparaîtront dans la description suivante d'un mode de réalisation préféré, présenté à titre d'exemple non limitatif en référence aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :

  • la figure 1 est une vue en coupe d'un élément support après fraisage d'une rainure selon une première étape du procédé de l'invention ;
  • la figure 2 est une vue en coupe d'un élément de support après l'étape de perçage d'un trou destiné à recevoir une pierre ;
  • la figure 3a est une vue de dessous de l'élément support après les étapes de fraisage pour lever les grains,
  • la figure 3b est une vue en coupe partielle selon la ligne III-III de la figure 3a ;
  • les figures 4a et 4b sont des vues en coupe partielle similaires à la figure 3b dans lesquelles les pierres sont respectivement montées et serties dans l'élément support ;
  • les figures 5 et 6 sont respectivement des vues de dessus et de dessous d'un cadran de montre serti de pierres selon le procédé de l'invention ; et
  • les figures 7 et 8 sont des vues en coupes respectivement selon les lignes VII-VII et VIII-VIII de la figure 5.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will appear in the following description of a preferred embodiment, presented by way of non-limiting example with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
  • Figure 1 is a sectional view of a support member after milling a groove according to a first step of the method of the invention;
  • Figure 2 is a sectional view of a support member after the step of drilling a hole for receiving a stone;
  • FIG. 3a is a view from below of the support element after the milling steps to lift the grains,
  • Figure 3b is a partial sectional view along the line III-III of Figure 3a;
  • Figures 4a and 4b are partial sectional views similar to Figure 3b in which the stones are respectively mounted and crimped into the support member;
  • Figures 5 and 6 are respectively top and bottom views of a watch dial set with stones according to the method of the invention; and
  • Figures 7 and 8 are sectional views respectively along the lines VII-VII and VIII-VIII of Figure 5.

Le procédé de sertissage de l'invention va maintenant être décrit dans le cadre d'une application à la réalisation d'un cadran pour pièce d'horlogerie présentant une face décorée de pierres précieuses ou semi-précieuses en liaison avec les figures 1 à 8.The crimping method of the invention will now be described in the context of an application to the production of a dial for a timepiece having a face decorated with precious or semi-precious stones in connection with FIGS. 1 to 8 .

A la figure 1, on voit un élément support 1 présentant la forme d'une plaque de métal par exemple en or gris 150 de quelques millimètres d'épaisseur typiquement 1 mm et destiné à la réalisation d'un cadran 2 pour une pièce d'horlogerie. L'élément support 1 comprend de manière classique un trou 4 pour le passage des aiguilles (non représentées). L'élément support 1 comprend en outre selon le procédé de l'invention au moins une rainure 6 réalisée par exemple par fraisage dans la surface 8 qui formera la surface décorée du cadran 2. Dans l'exemple illustré, la rainure 6 est rectiligne et présente une largeur constante, toutefois, il va de soi que, selon l'aspect de la surface décorée désirée, la rainure 6 peut s'étendre le long d'une ligne courbe avec une largeur fixe ou variable par exemple avec une largeur s'évasant d'une extrémité à l'autre.In Figure 1, there is shown a support member 1 having the shape of a metal plate for example of gray gold 150 a few millimeters thick typically 1 mm and intended for the realization of a dial 2 for a room of watchmaking. The support element 1 conventionally comprises a hole 4 for the passage of the needles (not shown). The support element 1 further comprises, according to the method of the invention, at least one groove 6 made for example by milling into the surface 8 which will form the decorated surface of the dial 2. In the example illustrated, the groove 6 is rectilinear and has a constant width, however, it goes without saying that, depending on the appearance of the desired decorated surface, the groove 6 may extend along a curved line with a fixed or variable width for example with a width flaring from one end to the other.

En se référant à la figure 2 on voit l'élément support après une deuxième étape du procédé de sertissage selon l'invention dans lequel on a réalisé une pluralité de perçages ou trous 10 depuis la face opposée 12 à la face décorée de l'élément support 1 à l'aide d'un outil O. Les perçages 10 sont réalisés de manière qu'ils débouchent dans la rainure 6 et forment une rangée de perçages suivant la rainure 6. Les diamètres des perçages 10 sont légèrement supérieurs aux diamètres des feuilletis des pierres qu'ils sont destinés à recevoir. Selon l'effet esthétique désiré, les perçages 10 pourront bien entendu présenter chacun des diamètres différents. Les perçages 10 selon le procédé de l'invention sont réalisés de manière que le fond de chaque perçage forme une paroi 14 d'appui pour la couronne de la pierre qu'ils sont destinés à recevoir. Typiquement, cette paroi d'appui 14 est une surface inclinée par rapport au plan de l'élément de support 1 dont l'inclinaison correspond sensiblement à l'inclinaison de la couronne de la pierre que le trou est destiné à recevoir. Dans la pratique on choisira un outil O dont la pointe présente un angle au sommet correspondant. Dans le cas notamment ou l'élément support 1 est de faible épaisseur, les perçages 10 sont séparés les uns des autres par des ponts de matière 16 (figure 3a) afin de ne pas diminuer de manière défavorable la rigidité de l'élément de support 1. On notera également que la largeur de la rainure 6 est sensiblement inférieure au diamètre des trous 10 à l'endroit où ils débouchent dans la rainure et les trous 10 seront centrés sur l'axe A de la rainure 6With reference to FIG. 2, the support element is seen after a second step of the crimping method according to the invention in which a plurality of holes or holes 10 have been made from the opposite face 12 to the decorated face of the element. 1 with the aid of a tool O. The holes 10 are made so that they open into the groove 6 and form a row of holes according to the groove 6. The diameters of the holes 10 are slightly greater than the diameters of the laminates stones that they are destined to receive. Depending on the desired aesthetic effect, the holes 10 may of course have each different diameters. The holes 10 according to the method of the invention are made so that the bottom of each hole forms a support wall 14 for the crown of the stone they are intended to receive. Typically, this support wall 14 is a surface inclined relative to the plane of the support member 1 whose inclination substantially corresponds to the inclination of the stone crown that the hole is intended to receive. In practice we will choose a tool O whose tip has a corresponding apex angle. In the particular case where the support element 1 is of small thickness, the bores 10 are separated from each other by material bridges 16 (FIG. 3a) in order not to decrease the rigidity of the support element adversely 1. It will also be noted that the width of the groove 6 is substantially smaller than the diameter of the holes 10 at the point where they open into the groove and the holes 10 will be centered on the axis A of the groove 6

Les figures 3a et 3b illustrent l'étape suivante du procédé de sertissage selon l'invention. Cette étape consiste à creuser des loges ou lamages 18 débouchant dans les perçages 10 dans la surface 12 de l'élément de support 1 au moyen d'un outil de coupe telle qu'une fraise, à lever des grains 20 à partir du fond 22 des loges 18 et le cas échéant à retoucher les grains 20 pour faciliter la mise en place ultérieure des pierres dans les perçages. Les grains 20 seront utilisés par la suite pour maintenir les pierres dans les perçages 10. Dans l'exemple illustré, les grains 20 sont au nombre de deux par perçage 10 et sont disposés de manière diamétralement opposée par rapport au perçage 10. Le nombre de grains peut bien entendu varier, notamment en fonction de la taille des pierres et de la densité de pierres sur l'élément support 1. A ce propos on notera que notamment dans le cas où l'on souhaite réaliser le sertissage de pierres selon des rangées peu espacées les unes de autres, le diamètre selon lequel sont agencés les deux grains 20 sera incliné par rapport à la direction transversale à la direction de la rainure à l'endroit des perçages 10.Figures 3a and 3b illustrate the next step of the crimping method according to the invention. This step consists in digging lodges or countershells 18 opening into the bores 10 in the surface 12 of the support element 1 by means of a cutting tool such as a burr, to lift grains 20 from the bottom 22 boxes 18 and if necessary to touch the grains 20 to facilitate the subsequent placement of stones in the holes. The grains 20 will be used later to maintain the stones in the holes 10. In the illustrated example, the grains 20 are two in number per hole 10 and are arranged diametrically opposite to the bore 10. The number of grains can of course vary, in particular depending on the size of the stones and the density of stones on the support element 1. In this respect it will be noted that especially in the case where it is desired to achieve the crimping stones in rows spaced apart from each other, the diameter in which the two grains 20 are arranged will be inclined with respect to the direction transverse to the direction of the groove at the location of the bores 10.

Selon une variante de réalisation (non représentée) dans laquelle les perçages 10 sont espacés les uns des autres pour former des ponts de matière entre eux, on peut prévoir de ménager les grains 20 dans ces ponts de matière 18 et configurer les grains 20 pour qu'un même grain permette la fixation de deux pierres juxtaposées.According to an alternative embodiment (not shown) in which the bores 10 are spaced from each other to form bridges of material between them, provision can be made to preserve the grains 20 in these material bridges 18 and configure the grains 20 so that the same grain allows the fixing of two stones juxtaposed.

La figure 4a représente l'élément de support 1 dans lequel les pierres 24 ont été mises en place dans les perçages 10 mais avant l'opération de fixation définitive dans l'élément support 1. Pour ce faire, et comme le diamètre de chaque perçage correspond au diamètre du feuilletis de la pierre qu'il est destiné à recevoir, il suffit de pousser les pierres dans le fond du perçage depuis la face 12 jusqu'à ce que les couronnes 26 de chaque pierre 24 viennent buter contre la paroi d'appui 14. Une fois mises en place, les pierres 24 sont alors immobilisées dans leur perçage 10 au cours d'une étape de boulage dans laquelle les grains 20 sont repoussés contre la culasse 28 de chaque pierre comme cela est représenté à la figure 4b. Cette opération est réalisée à l'aide d'un outil classique appelé perloir. Une fois sertie, la table 30 ainsi qu'une portion de la couronne 26 de chaque pierre est alors visible sur la face 12 du cadran 2. La hauteur de dépassement des pierres au-delà de la face 8 pourra aisément être ajustée en jouant sur la profondeur de rainures et/ou des perçagesFIG. 4a shows the support element 1 in which the stones 24 have been put in place in the bores 10 but before the final fixing operation in the support element 1. To do this, and as the diameter of each piercing corresponds to the diameter of the leaflet of the stone that it is intended to receive, simply push the stones in the bottom of the bore from the face 12 until the crowns 26 of each stone 24 abut against the wall of 14. Once in place, the stones 24 are then immobilized in their drilling 10 during a rounding step in which the grains 20 are pushed against the yoke 28 of each stone as shown in Figure 4b. This operation is performed using a classic tool called perloir. Once crimped, the table 30 and a portion of the crown 26 of each stone is then visible on the face 12 of the dial 2. The height of the stones beyond the face 8 can easily be adjusted by playing on the depth of grooves and / or holes

Le procédé de l'invention permet donc d'obtenir des objets décorés de pierres serties dans lesquels les moyens de retenue des pierres sur l'objet ne se trouvent pas du coté de la face décorée.The method of the invention thus makes it possible to obtain objects decorated with crimped stones in which the stone retaining means on the object are not on the side of the decorated face.

A titre exemplatif on a représenté aux figures 5 à 8 un cadran 32 pour une pièce d'horlogerie sertie de pierres conformément au procédé de l'invention. Le cadran 32 comporte deux rangées de pierres serties 24a à savoir une première rangée formée d'une pluralité de pierres sensiblement de même taille disposées le long d'une rainure rectiligne 6a de largeur constante et une deuxième rangée formée d'une pluralité de pierres 24b de tailles croissantes disposées le long d'une rainure 6b dont la largeur croît de manière correspondante à celle des pierres. Dans ces figures, les éléments identiques à ceux décrits en liaison avec les figures précédentes sont désignés par les mêmes références numériquesBy way of example, FIGS. 5 to 8 show a dial 32 for a timepiece set with stones according to the method of the invention. The dial 32 comprises two rows of crimped stones 24a, namely a first row formed of a plurality of stones of substantially the same size arranged along a rectilinear groove 6a of constant width and a second row formed of a plurality of stones 24b of increasing sizes arranged along a groove 6b whose width increases correspondingly to that of the stones. In these figures, elements identical to those described in connection with the preceding figures are designated by the same reference numerals

On comprendra que diverses modifications et/ou améliorations évidentes pour l'homme de métier peuvent être apportées au mode de réalisation décrit dans la présente description sans sortir du cadre de la présente invention définie par les revendications annexées. On pourra notamment prévoir d'utiliser le procédé de l'invention pour décorer des maillons de bracelet, des lunettes de montre et toute sorte de bijoux, ou toutes autres pièces serties.It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements obvious to those skilled in the art can be made to the embodiment described herein without departing from the scope of the present invention defined by the appended claims. It may in particular provide to use the method of the invention to decorate bracelet links, watch glasses and all kinds of jewelry, or other crimped parts.

Claims (11)

Procédé de sertissage d'une pluralité de pierres présentant chacune une culasse, une couronne et un feuilletis dans un élément support en métal comprenant les étapes consistant à : - fraiser une rainure sur une première face de l'élément support ; - percer depuis une deuxième face de l'élément support, opposée à ladite première face, une pluralité de trous ayant chacun un diamètre correspondant sensiblement au diamètre du feuilletis de la pierre qu'il est destiné à recevoir, de manière que chaque trou débouche dans ladite rainure et que chaque fond de trou forme une paroi d'appui pour la couronne de la pierre ; - former des grains dans la deuxième face de l'élément support au voisinage des parois d'appui ; - mettre en place les pierres dans les trous de manière que la couronne de chaque pierre vienne buter contre la paroi d'appui de son trou ; et - pousser les grains contre la culasse de chaque pierre afin de fixer les pierres dans ledit élément support. A method of crimping a plurality of stones each having a yoke, a crown and a laminate in a metal support member comprising the steps of: - Milling a groove on a first face of the support member; - Drilling from a second face of the support member, opposite said first face, a plurality of holes each having a diameter substantially corresponding to the diameter of the laminate of the stone that it is intended to receive, so that each hole opens into said groove and that each bottom hole forms a bearing wall for the stone crown; forming grains in the second face of the support element in the vicinity of the support walls; - put the stones in the holes so that the crown of each stone abuts against the wall of support of its hole; and - push the grains against the cylinder head of each stone to fix the stones in said support element. Procédé de sertissage selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la largeur de la rainure est sensiblement égale ou supérieure au diamètre des trous à l'endroit où débouchent les trous dans la rainure.Crimping method according to claim 1, characterized in that the width of the groove is substantially equal to or greater than the diameter of the holes at the point where the holes open into the groove. Procédé de sertissage selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que les trous sont centrés sur l'axe de la rainure.Crimping method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the holes are centered on the axis of the groove. Procédé de sertissage selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que les trous sont séparés les uns des autres par des ponts de matière.Crimping method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the holes are separated from each other by material bridges. Procédé de sertissage selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la rainure s'étend le long d'une ligne courbe.Crimping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the groove extends along a curved line. Procédé de sertissage selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la rainure présente une largeur variable d'une extrémité à l'autre.Crimping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the groove has a variable width from one end to the other. Procédé de sertissage selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins deux grains sont associés à chaque trou.Crimping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least two grains are associated with each hole. Procédé de sertissage selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les grains sont réalisés dans des logements formés par des lamages débouchant latéralement dans les trous, les grains étant arrangés dans le fond desdits lamages.Crimping method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the grains are formed in housings formed by counterbores opening laterally into the holes, the grains being arranged in the bottom of said countersink. Procédé de sertissage selon la revendication 6 ou 7 dans lequel les trous sont séparés les uns des autres par des ponts matières, caractérisé en ce que les grains sont ménagés dans les ponts de matière et en ce qu'un même grain permet la fixation de deux pierres juxtaposés.Crimping method according to claim 6 or 7 wherein the holes are separated from one another by material bridges, characterized in that the grains are formed in the bridges of material and in that a same grain allows the attachment of two stones juxtaposed. Procédé de sertissage selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que le diamètre selon lequel sont agencés les deux grains est incliné par rapport à la direction transversale à la direction de la rainure.Crimping method according to claim 7, characterized in that the diameter in which the two grains are arranged is inclined relative to the direction transverse to the direction of the groove. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes dans lequel l'élément support est formé d'une plaque formant un cadran d'horlogerie.A method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the support member is formed of a plate forming a clock face.
EP06110493A 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Method for setting a gem in a support element Active EP1825773B1 (en)

Priority Applications (9)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT06110493T ATE413109T1 (en) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 METHOD FOR MOUNTING STONES IN A SUPPORT ELEMENT
ES06110493T ES2317419T3 (en) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 PROCEDURE OF CRUSHING STONES IN AN ELEMENT SUPPORT.
DE602006003522T DE602006003522D1 (en) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Method for bordering stones in a carrier element
EP06110493A EP1825773B1 (en) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Method for setting a gem in a support element
US11/676,689 US7971326B2 (en) 2006-02-28 2007-02-20 Method of setting stones in a support element
CNB2007100843661A CN100553517C (en) 2006-02-28 2007-02-27 The method of setting stones in supporter
KR1020070020071A KR101236564B1 (en) 2006-02-28 2007-02-28 Method of setting stones in a support element
JP2007048804A JP4896771B2 (en) 2006-02-28 2007-02-28 How to fit a stone into a support element
HK08102262.9A HK1111319A1 (en) 2006-02-28 2008-02-28 Method of setting stones in a support element

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06110493A EP1825773B1 (en) 2006-02-28 2006-02-28 Method for setting a gem in a support element

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EP1825773A1 true EP1825773A1 (en) 2007-08-29
EP1825773B1 EP1825773B1 (en) 2008-11-05

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US (1) US7971326B2 (en)
EP (1) EP1825773B1 (en)
JP (1) JP4896771B2 (en)
KR (1) KR101236564B1 (en)
CN (1) CN100553517C (en)
AT (1) ATE413109T1 (en)
DE (1) DE602006003522D1 (en)
ES (1) ES2317419T3 (en)
HK (1) HK1111319A1 (en)

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CN104859356B (en) * 2015-05-27 2018-06-05 依波精品（深圳）有限公司 A kind of method and wrist-watch of watch dial inlaid diamond
EP3479720B1 (en) * 2017-11-07 2020-03-25 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Method for crimping a stone
EP3479721B1 (en) * 2017-11-07 2020-05-13 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd Method for crimping a stone
CN109014248B (en) * 2018-10-11 2020-04-03 上海车功坊智能科技股份有限公司 Semi-automatic and automatic automobile hub surface wire drawing method

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1825773B1 (en) 2008-11-05
US7971326B2 (en) 2011-07-05
JP4896771B2 (en) 2012-03-14
ATE413109T1 (en) 2008-11-15
CN101028147A (en) 2007-09-05
US20070204463A1 (en) 2007-09-06
HK1111319A1 (en) 2008-08-08
ES2317419T3 (en) 2009-04-16
JP2007232724A (en) 2007-09-13
KR20070089634A (en) 2007-08-31
CN100553517C (en) 2009-10-28
KR101236564B1 (en) 2013-02-22
DE602006003522D1 (en) 2008-12-18

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