Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
  • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
  • A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
  • A41H43/0207—Stacking
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B26—HAND CUTTING TOOLS; CUTTING; SEVERING
  • B26D—CUTTING; DETAILS COMMON TO MACHINES FOR PERFORATING, PUNCHING, CUTTING-OUT, STAMPING-OUT OR SEVERING
  • B26D7/00—Details of apparatus for cutting, cutting-out, stamping-out, punching, perforating, or severing by means other than cutting
  • B26D7/01—Means for holding or positioning work
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B26—HAND CUTTING TOOLS; CUTTING; SEVERING
  • B26D—CUTTING; DETAILS COMMON TO MACHINES FOR PERFORATING, PUNCHING, CUTTING-OUT, STAMPING-OUT OR SEVERING
  • B26D7/00—Details of apparatus for cutting, cutting-out, stamping-out, punching, perforating, or severing by means other than cutting
  • B26D7/08—Means for treating work or cutting member to facilitate cutting
  • B26D7/086—Means for treating work or cutting member to facilitate cutting by vibrating, e.g. ultrasonically
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B26—HAND CUTTING TOOLS; CUTTING; SEVERING
  • B26D—CUTTING; DETAILS COMMON TO MACHINES FOR PERFORATING, PUNCHING, CUTTING-OUT, STAMPING-OUT OR SEVERING
  • B26D7/00—Details of apparatus for cutting, cutting-out, stamping-out, punching, perforating, or severing by means other than cutting
  • B26D7/08—Means for treating work or cutting member to facilitate cutting
  • B26D7/14—Means for treating work or cutting member to facilitate cutting by tensioning the work

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a method and a processing device, in particular a linear processing and in particular a cutting, of resilient flexible textile pieces in the form.
• the Applicant has already described in FR 2002-0016869 a method and a device for handling textile parts, including bra.
• a robot whose gripping arm comprises a suction pad automatically grasps and transports in a precise orientation a textile piece to a workstation where the piece is for example cut and / or sewn by automatic machines. This robot is perfectly adapted to the treatment of plane blanks of bra.
• the blank can be made in a textile piece whose structure (knit, lace, fabric, sheet plastic) and / or the constituent materials (thermoplastic material constituting, for example, in part the yarns) allow the hot and press-molding of the cups: the flat blank once assembled (setting up reinforcements for example) and partially cut is brought to a thermoforming station to form the cups which therefore permanently keep a certain shape, for example substantially hemispherical, while the rest of the textile piece is flat.
• the upper part of the cups is more or less cut in the shaped part, as well as in the neighboring parts of the flat blank, in order to form a neckline extending in part on the cups.
• the object of the invention is to solve this problem and to propose a method and a device for the precise treatment, for example a linear treatment such as cutting or sewing, of flexible textile pieces such as brassieres, already worn. in shape.
• the object of the invention is achieved by means of a processing method according to which the soft elastic textile piece having at least one shaped part which is to be partially treated is surrounded by a flat part, the seizure taking place in at least two points of the planar part surrounding the shaped part to be treated, in that the part seized between these two points is separated so as to substantially flatten the shaped part seized between the two points, and in that it is treated flat the part seized spread.
• the piece thus treated can then be relaxed and returned to a storage station.
• an air jet is sent on the shaped part so as to disengage the shaped part which could deform into folds and come to interfere with the treatment.
• the part is grasped at three points defining a plane by a central clamp and two lateral clamps and the points grasped by a displacement of the central clamp with respect to the lateral clamps are separated, in particular by a tilting of the central clamp outside said clamp. plan.
• this simple movement is sufficient to cause the desired flattening in the case of a cut bra neckline.
• the lateral clamps are mounted so as to be able to deviate from the central clamp.
• the linear flat treatment is a cut, in particular performed by an ultrasonic wheel. But it could also be for example sewing, including decorative, or product application, including an elastomeric band.
• the invention also relates to a device for implementing the aforementioned method, comprising a gripping device for gripping the flexible elastic textile piece having at least one shaped part which must be partially treated surrounded by a flat part, the seizure being done in at least two points of the planar portion surrounding the shaped portion to be treated, means for spacing the workpiece grasped between these two points so as to substantially flatten the shaped portion grasped between the two points, and means flat processing of the part seized spread.
• the device comprises, preferably on the processing means, a blower nozzle for sending an air jet on the shaped part that will be treated.
• the gripping device is a three-point device comprising a central clamp and two lateral clamps substantially defining a common plane of the clamps.
• the central clamp is pivotally mounted to be able to exit the common plane of the clamps.
• the gripping device is a five-point device comprising two end clamps, to also be able to grasp and treat the ends of a part such as a bra blank.
• the flat treatment device advantageously comprises an ultrasonic cutting wheel.
• FIG. 1 is a front view of a bra obtained according to the method of the invention.
• FIG. 2 is a front view of the thermoformed blank which is to be cut to obtain the bra of FIG. 1.
• FIG. 3 shows in plan view the placement of the gripping tongs of the robot of the invention on the sketch of Figure 2.
• Figure 4 is a partial perspective view of the blank of Figure 2, clamped by the clamps of Figure 3, approaching the cutting wheel.
• Figure 5 is a partial perspective view showing the effect of the spacing of the clamps on the cup to be cut.
• Figure 6 is a diagram of the manipulator robot bringing the bra to the cutting station. The invention will be explained in the context of the manufacture of the bra 1 of Figure 1, consisting essentially of a single textile piece 2 composed of one or more flexible textile layers and admitting the thermoforming.
• the piece also has a certain elasticity, by the nature of its constituent materials and / or by its weaving or knitting.
• the ends of the part 2 forming the back of the bra receive, for example by welding, a not shown closure device (for example by stapling).
• straps also not shown can be fixed in the same way to the part 2.
• the edges 3 of the part 2 can be cut, especially ultrasonically, fancy, for example flakes.
• the cups 4 form in the part 2 substantially hemispherical areas which therefore form a three-dimensional projection relative to the entire plan of the part 2. Partly surrounding the cups 4 in their lower zone of the frames 5 may have been incorporated into the room 2 by one or other of the well-known techniques for this purpose.
• the upper edge 6 of the bra has an ornamental flake cut, which passes into plane portions 6 'of the bottom of the piece 2 and in curved portions 6 "of the thermoformed areas of the
• the object of the invention is to proceed automatically to the cutting of this edge 6 from the preform 10 shown in Figure 2.
• the blank 10 is distinguished from the bra 1 by the presence of an upper edge 7 that will cut along the cutting line 6 shown in phantom and having planar portions 6 'and curved portions 6 ".
• the blank 10 is previously arranged for example in a suitable receiving tray, so that the parts to be cut, including the cups, are referenced in position: the receiving tray may include reliefs intended to place the caps.
• the well-placed blank 10 is grasped at three points B, A, B forming a plane triangle, by the three pairs of clamps 21 and 22 of a gripper device 20 with clamps, carried at the end of a movable articulated arm 31 of a multi-axis robot 30 (see FIG. These three points B, A, B are themselves perfectly referenced in position relative to the blank.
• a central pair of clamps 21 grasps the blank 10 in the flat portion of the blank between the cups 4, from the edge of the basque 3 opposite the edge 7 to be cut.
• the two lateral pairs of grippers 22 grip the blank 10, laterally, in the flat portion of the blank substantially diametrically opposed to the portion gripped by the pair of central grippers 21, relative to each cup 4.
• the shape of the fingers of the clamps 22 may be curved or at an angle, to adapt to the shape of the blank and to be able to grasp at the indicated location, from the edge 3 and substantially perpendicular to it, without interfering with the adjacent cup 4.
• Each pair of forceps comprises the upper finger shown in the figures, and a thin lower finger not shown, of the same shape or shape wider than the shape of the upper fingers.
• a controlled articulation allows the opening of the fingers of each pair of clamps 21 or 22, or at least the upper finger of each clamp, for the capture of the blank 10.
• the central pair of clamps 21 is generally mounted rocking around a transverse axis 29 (see FIG.
• the robot 30 transfers the blank 10 to the table 33 of the cutting station comprising the ultrasonic cutting device 34, pivoting on a pivoting zone 35 of the table, and comprising an ultrasonic cutting wheel 36 to which the robot goes bring the draft seized 10.
• a suction pipe 37 is associated with the cutting wheel to recover the son, fibers and other waste resulting from cutting, while a blowing nozzle 38 is provided at the front of the cutting wheel 36.
• the FIG. 4 represents the approach of the blank 10 gripped by the clamps 21 and 22 (only the first two clamps have been represented in detail by their upper finger), on either side of the formed thermo cups 4 which form a dome protruding from the remainder plan of the blank.
• the clamps 21 and 22 are all in the same middle plane. Before we get close enough to the cutting wheel 36, the central clamp 21 tilts down which tends the flexible textile pinched between it and the lateral clamps 22.
• FIG. 6 very schematically shows a cabin 40 intended to contain the robot 30 and the cutting system 34.
• the blanks 10 to be treated are deposited by an operator or automatically on a removal zone, constituted for example by a sliding drawer 41, or a rotary table, thanks to registration reliefs corresponding for example to the thermoformed cups.
• the robot 30 comes to grasp by its three-point gripper device 20 a blank, the takes to the treatment station 34 and brings it back to a reception area, where it is taken manually or automatically for finishing the bra (laying bret)
• the gripper device 20 comprises not only the clamps 21, 22 for referencing and holding the part to be cut at the cups, but also two clamps not shown and located even more laterally that the clamps 22 so as to maintain the ends of the part 2 which must receive the stapling elements.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Forests & Forestry (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (2)

Family

ID=34946622

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (8)

Families Citing this family (3)

Family Cites Families (18)

• 2004
  • 2004-05-28 FR FR0405796A patent/FR2870682B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2005
  • 2005-04-29 US US11/597,470 patent/US20080256769A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2005-04-29 WO PCT/FR2005/001079 patent/WO2006000659A1/fr active IP Right Grant
  • 2005-04-29 ES ES05763712T patent/ES2308522T3/es active Active
  • 2005-04-29 EP EP05763712A patent/EP1781128B1/de not_active Not-in-force
  • 2005-04-29 DE DE602005007357T patent/DE602005007357D1/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2005-05-09 TW TW094114852A patent/TW200538058A/zh unknown
  • 2005-05-27 DO DO2005P000104A patent/DOP2005000104A/es unknown

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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