EP1696903A1

EP1696903A1 - Combination of 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone and licochalcone-a

Info

Publication number: EP1696903A1
Application number: EP04819609A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Stefan Gallinat; Ludger Kolbe; Christopher Mummert; Rainer Wolber; Franz STÄB
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2003-12-03
Filing date: 2004-11-22
Publication date: 2006-09-06
Also published as: DE10357451A1; WO2005053680A1; US20070110704A1; JP2007513104A

Abstract

The invention relates to active agent combinations of (a) one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and (b) licochalcone-A, or an aqueous extract of Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae, containing licochalcone-A.

Description

COMBINATION OF 2, 3-DIBEΪIZY BUTYROLACTONE AND LICOCHALCON A

description

Active ingredient combinations of 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactoπen and ücochalcon A or an aqueous extract from Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae, containing Licochaicon A

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive skin, and very particularly in the foreground of skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and the use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored ,

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

In the case of old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal is slowed down, the water-binding capacity of the horny layer in particular diminishing. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). Barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, there may even be toxic or allergic skin reactions. In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, there is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids are formed incorrectly or in insufficient quantity or composition. The consequence is an increased permeability of the horny layer and inadequate protection of the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from the inside of the body without taking into account the loss of water when sweating. The determination of the TEWL value has proven to be extremely informative and can be used to diagnose cracked or chapped skin, to determine the compatibility of chemically differently structured surfactants and the like.

The water content in the uppermost skin layer is of the greatest importance for the beauty and care of the skin. It can be influenced to a limited extent by introducing moisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which are generally components of cleaning preparations, can increase the pH value in the horny layer for a long time, which greatly hinders regenerative processes that serve to restore and renew the skin's barrier function. In this case, a new, often very unfavorable equilibrium occurs in the horny layer between regeneration and the loss of essential substances through regular extraction, which significantly affects the external appearance of the skin and the physiological functioning of the horny layer.

Even a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants initially causes swelling of the horny layer of the skin, while the degree of this swelling depends, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances, such as water-soluble dirt components, but also skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the horny layer, are washed off or washed out. To a certain extent, skin fats are also dissolved and washed out by the skin's own surface-active substances. After initial swelling, this requires a subsequent significant drying out of the skin, which can be reinforced by washing-active additives. In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, since the protective mechanisms of the skin can easily compensate for such slight disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, for example due to environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disrupted. Under certain circumstances, he may no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures.

In addition, it is known that the lipid composition and amount of the horny layer of the pathologically changed, dry and dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people deviate from the normal condition found in healthy, normally hydrated skin of an age group of the same age. The changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema represent an extreme case for the deviations that are found in the dry skin of healthy people.

These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are greatly reduced in their quantity and are also composed differently. The deficit in ceramides 1 and 3 is particularly striking, it being known in particular for ceramide 1 that it increases the order of the lipids in the intercellular membrane systems in a special way.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above may be due to miscontrolled lipid biosynthesis and also ultimately increase transepidermal water loss. Long-lasting barrier weakness, in turn, makes healthy skin more sensitive and in individual cases can contribute to the development of eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer usually does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physicochemical properties of the lamellae made of intercellular lipids. A major partial effect is due to the mere covering of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying horny layer. Co-applied hygroscopic Substances bind the water so that there is a measurable increase in the water content in the horny layer. However, this purely physical barrier can be removed relatively easily. After stopping the product, the skin quickly returns to the state before the start of treatment. In addition, the skin care effect can diminish with regular treatment, so that the status quo is finally reached again even during treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may temporarily worsen after discontinuation. As a rule, a sustainable product effect is not achieved or only to a limited extent.

In order to support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and to strengthen its physiological function, intercellular lipid mixtures, which are to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier, are increasingly being added to topical preparations. However, these lipids, especially the ceramides, are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually much less than expected.

The aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effects of skin care products should be physiological, quick and sustainable.

Skin care in the sense of the present invention is to be understood primarily as meaning that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, lipids) , Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin are known per se. However, their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited in scope and time.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer is based essentially on the covering (occlusion) of the treated skin areas. The ointment or cream is, so to speak, a (second) artificial barrier that is supposed to prevent water loss from the skin. This physical barrier can be easily for example with cleaning agents - are removed again, whereby the original, impaired state is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect can decrease with regular treatment. After stopping the application of the product, the skin quickly returns to the state before the start of treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may even temporarily deteriorate. As a rule, a sustainable product effect is not achieved or only to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier function of the skin even consists in selective barrier damage, which is intended to enable active substances to penetrate into or through the skin into the body. A disturbed appearance of the skin is sometimes accepted as a side effect.

The effect of nourishing cleansing products is essentially an efficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. By simultaneously reducing the surfactant content of such preparations, the damage to the homolayer barrier can be further limited.

However, the prior art lacks preparations which have a positive effect on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer and which strengthen or even restore the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular of the lamellae from intercellular lipids.

The object of the present invention was therefore to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, skin-care preparations and preparations for cleaning the skin should be made available which maintain or restore the skin's barrier properties, especially when the natural regeneration of the skin is not sufficient. They should also be suitable for the treatment and prophylaxis of consequential damage to skin drying out, for example fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes or also neurodermatitis. It was also an object of the present invention to provide stable skin-care cosmetic and / or dermatological agents which protect the skin from environmental influences such as sun and wind. In particular, the effect of the preparations should be physiological, quick and sustainable. In addition, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "stinging potential". In people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, a neurosensory phenomenon called "stinging"(<engl.>"Tosting" = injure, burn, pain) can be observed. This "sensitive skin" differs fundamentally from "dry skin" with thickened and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" to sensitive skin are reddening, tension and burning of the skin as well as itching.

Itching in atopic skin and itching in skin diseases are to be regarded as a neurosensory phenomenon.

"Stinging 'phenomena can be regarded as disorders to be treated cosmetically. In contrast, severe itching, particularly severe itching in the case of atopy, can also be described as a more serious dermatological disorder.

Typical disturbing neurosensory phenomena associated with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" are reddening of the skin, tingling, tingling, tension and burning of the skin and itching. You can e.g. by stimulating environmental conditions Massage, exposure to surfactants, weather influences such as sun, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, heat radiation and UV radiation, e.g. the sun.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977), PJFrosch and AMKligman describe a method for estimating the "stinging potential" of topically administered substances. Lactic acid and pyruvic acid, for example, are used here as positive substances. When measured by this method, however, amino acids, in particular glycine, were also found to be neurosensory active (such substances are called "Stinger"). According to previous knowledge, such a sensitivity to very specific substances occurs individually in different ways. This means that a person who experiences "stinging effects" when in contact with a substance is very likely to experience it repeatedly with each subsequent contact. Contact with other "Stingers" can just as easily be without any reaction. The problem of "sensitive skin" affects a growing number of adults and children. Sensitive skin is a combination of various symptoms, such as hyper-reactive and intolerant skin. But atopic skin can also be summed up. These skin conditions are often affected by those affected, not entirely correct, referred to as "allergic" skin. Although an allergic disease can lead to symptoms of sensitive skin, the appearance of "sensitive skin" is not limited to allergy sufferers

Many more or less sensitive people also suffer from erythematous skin symptoms when using some deodorizing or antiperspirant preparations.

Erythematous skin symptoms also appear as a side effect with certain skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical rash in the appearance of acne is usually more or less reddened.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

In particular, active substances and preparations containing such active substances should be made available for the cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "stinging".

Furthermore, such active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be made available which can be used for immune stimulation of the skin, advantageously also for immune stimulation in the sense of the effect promoting wound healing.

In a further preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as, for example, the undesired pigmentation, for example local hyper- and deficient pigmentations (for example liver spots, freckles), but also for purely cosmetic lightening of larger, the individual skin type of adequately pigmented skin areas. Melanocytes are responsible for the pigmentation of the skin. They can be found in the bottom layer of the epidermis, the stratum basale, next to the basal cells as - depending on the skin type, either isolated or more or less frequently occurring pigment-forming cells. As characteristic cell organelles, melanocytes contain melanosomes which, when stimulated by UV radiation, form increased melanin. This is transported into the keratinocyte and causes a more or less pronounced brown or brown skin color.

Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine with the help of the enzyme tyrosinase via 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (dopa), dopa-quinone, leucodopachrome, dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindole and indole-5,6-quinone finally in Melanin is converted.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes or are side effects of many biological processes, e.g. UV radiation (e.g. freckles, ephe- lides), genetic disposition, incorrect pigmentation of the skin during wound healing or scarring or skin aging (e.g. Lentigines seniles).

Active substances and preparations are known which counteract skin pigmentation. Preparations based on hydroquinone are essentially in practical use, but some of them only show their effect after several weeks of use, the excessive use of which is also of concern for toxicological reasons. The inhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as kojic acid, ascorbic acid and azelaic acid and their derivatives is also common, but has cosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

The object of the present invention was also to remedy these shortcomings.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging. Chronological skin aging is caused, for example, by endogenous, genetically determined factors. The following structural damage and functional disorders occur in the epidermis and dermis due to aging, which can also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

a) Dryness, roughness and the formation of wrinkles due to dryness, b) itching and c) reduced regreasing due to sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants can be cumulative and e.g. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, there are especially exogenous factors, e.g. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited in scope. In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development to sufficiently stabilize the active ingredients against oxidative decay. The use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also for protection cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the components of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as e.g. skin aging, especially skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

The present invention further relates to active substances and preparations containing such active substances for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses.

In a further advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates to active substance combinations and preparations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause an erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known for protection against UVB radiation, which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole. It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can cause reactions in light-sensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation damages the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against the rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives of di-benzoylmethane are therefore used, the photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)) of which is insufficient.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly free radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen (radical ground state) that is normally present. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV, which in turn can then oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect, in light protection formulations, but the efficacy achieved here still remains. kung far behind the hoped for.

The object of the invention was therefore also to provide cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names, such as those in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Sexually Diseases (1989), 156, p.2), are specified.

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. Nevertheless, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and animal skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California), oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. It has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect in sunscreen formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways which avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effect of repairing the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging and the Prophylaxis to be permanent, sustainable and without the risk of side effects.

According to the invention, the deficiencies of the prior art are eliminated by combinations of active ingredients from (a) one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and

(b) Licochalcon A or an aqueous extract from Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae, containing Licochalcon A

or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations.

Preparations according to the invention or cosmetic or dermatological preparations are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,

- counteract dehydration better,

- work better against pigment disorders,

- work better against inflammatory skin conditions

- work better against skin aging and - protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

The use of active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations according to the invention surprisingly offers effective treatment, but also prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficit, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages of signs of premature aging the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasia) and / or the appendages of the skin, of environmental ones (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-related negative changes in the skin and appendages, of light-related skin damage - _t from pigmentation disorders, from sensitive, irritated and itchy skin, from dry skin conditions and barrier layer disorders, from hair loss and for improved hair growth - from inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also surprisingly serves to calm sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis to stimulate ceramide synthesis of the skin - to stimulate the skin intracellular DNA synthesis, especially for deficient or hypoactive skin conditions. to increase cell renewal and regeneration of the skin to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (e.g. for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) - for pre-treatment and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

The 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and licochalcone A are preferably present in the active compound combinations according to the invention in ratios of 50: 1 to 1:50, preferably 10: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2.

The 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives according to the invention and / or their glycosides are derived from the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone also according to the invention, which is characterized by the following structure:

2,3-Dibenzylbutyrolacton

According to the invention, 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone, 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and / or their glycosides in all their stereoisomeric forms, which can be present both as a racemate and in enantiomerically pure form, and also in racemic mixtures with different enantiomeric proportions. According to the invention, the formulation comprises 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and / or their glycosides also the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone.

The 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives according to the invention and / or their glycosides can advantageously be added to the preparation according to the invention in the form of plant extracts. Aqueous-alcoholic extracts from plants have proven particularly useful. However, extracts and distillates obtained with other forms of extraction and methods, for example extracts obtained with carbon dioxide as extracting agent and steam distillates, can also be advantageously formulated into the preparations according to the invention.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use plant extracts of Arctium lappa L (large burdock) and / or Steganotaenia araliacea (carrot tree).

Arctiin, arctigenin, Prestegan B, matairesinol, tracheloside and / or trachelogenin are used as 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives preferred according to the invention and / or their glycosides.

According to the invention, the derivatives with the following stereochemical structure are particularly preferred:

Trachelo genin tracheloside

Matairesinol Prestegan B

Arctiin and prestegan B are very particularly preferred according to the invention. The 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and / or their glycosides according to the invention can be easily incorporated into conventional cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, such as sunscreen preparations, skin care preparations, anti-wrinkle preparations, but also other preparations, for example pharmaceutical preparations.

Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain 0.01-25% by weight of one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The plant species Glycyrrhiza inflata, like the licorice Glycyrrhiza glabra, which belongs to Europe, belongs to the genus Glycyrrhiza, which belongs to the Fabaceae (pea family) plant family. The drug Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae, i.e. the root of the plant, is used, for example, in Far Eastern medicine. The use of the drug as an anti-inflammatory is also known.

A component of the aqueous extract from Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae is the licochalcon

A, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

It is assumed that this substance, possibly in synergy with the other constituents of the extract, has a share in the effect according to the invention.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the preparations contain 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1% by weight, very particularly 0.005 to 0.15% by weight of licochalcone A, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous according to the invention in particular if the preparations contain 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight, very particularly 0.01 to 2% by weight, of one or more polyols, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparations contain licocalchon as a constituent of plant extracts, in particular of Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if licochalcone is in the form of an aqueous extract in which - licochalcone A water, if appropriate, one or more polyols are present.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparations 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight, very particularly 0.01 to 2% by weight, of an aqueous extract from Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae included, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 5% by weight, very particularly 0.01 to 2% by weight, of one or more polyols, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly advantageous to choose butylene glycol as the polyol. I

It is particularly advantageous to start with an extract that is marketed by the Maruzen company under the name Polyol Soluble Licorice Extract P-U.

It is also advantageous to use Licochalcone A in other vehicle systems in a concentration of 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1% by weight, very particularly 0.005-0.05% by weight. Accordingly, the use of active substance combinations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined dry skin is accordingly also according to the invention.

Accordingly, the use of active compound combinations according to the invention for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders is also in accordance with the invention.

Accordingly, the use of active substance combinations according to the invention for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin is accordingly also according to the invention

Accordingly, the use of active compound combinations according to the invention for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing ceramide biosynthesis is also in accordance with the invention.

Accordingly, the use of active substance combinations according to the invention for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for strengthening the barrier function of the skin is also in accordance with the invention.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-1.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01-1% by weight, of active compound combinations according to the invention, based on the total composition of the preparations.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use active ingredient combinations according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing active substance combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ -Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoxinsulfoximine, homocystone, homocystone pent α-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate Benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivative e, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and which are suitable according to the invention Derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological Tological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention are carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is also possible and advantageous to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Medical topical compositions within the meaning of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. is in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example: 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethyl-hexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester, derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone , 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Examples of advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are: Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and 1,4- di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1 , 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid)

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3 - (4'-Isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ), zirconium (Zr0 ₂ ), silicon (Si0 ₂ ), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ 0 ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. It is particularly preferably pigments based on TiO ₂ .

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous, although not essential, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, ie that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se. Such a method consists, for example, in that the hydrophobic surface layer according to a direction

n Ti0 ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '-> n Ti0 ₂ (surface)

is generated, n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous Ti0 ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OS0 ₃ ^2" , -S0 ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Four groups can be distinguished here:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and • nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively due to that Labeled presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acid or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, e.g. Cf RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^_ B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Typical of non-ionic surfactants and polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl octylate

6. Alaninate carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkenolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate, Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-1 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate, 4. sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfyl succinate sulfosuccinate aminosulfinate sulfosuccinate aminosulfinate sulfosuccinate disodium aminosulfinate sulfate succinate disodium aminosulfinate sulfate succinate disodium aminosulfinate sulfate succinate disulfate and

such as

Schwefelsäureester as 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium and sodium _C12 - ₁ 3 pareth, 2. alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic Surfactants Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously are

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants. 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently bonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can be also preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzene zyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Benzyldimethylstea- rylammoniumchlorid, also alkyltrialkylammonium, such as for example Ce tyltrimethylammoniumchlorid or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or -bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylam- monium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetylt methylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants are non-ionic surfactants that can be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerio esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants. The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral wax oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, and also natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; benzoates; - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyistearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, comparable branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, where appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, Cι _2- ι ₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid re-trig lyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C ₁₂ are particularly advantageous. ₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _2-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows: wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented by the radicals R ₁ - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n assume values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous. However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a constitution similar to the above-mentioned compounds, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethy- glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention. The use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8) is also advantageous.

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Vegegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohol, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) ethoxylated fatty amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, fatty acid glycol amides, e.g. Triton X) The anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

The cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are: a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / V emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example: the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-C00 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-C00 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (0) -R', - the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the ethoxylated Sorbitan esters of cholesterol ethoxylates of ethoxylated triglycerides of alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _π -R ', the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _π -R', the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general Formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _π -C (0) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0 -) _n -H, - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the propoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates of the propoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) 0-) _π -CH ₂ -COOH of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ - CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-0-X _n -Y _m -H, - the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0-X _n -Y _m - R ', the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _π rR', the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated residues R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) - stearyl ether (Steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethyleneostearyl (16 (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20 .

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-4), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-6), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20), Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-6), polyethylene glycol (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate , Polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt. ,

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself. Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprolate caprinate, polyethylene glycol To choose polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat.

It is also favorable to select the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C atoms, diglycerine ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids in a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmono- isostearate, propylene glycol caprylate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol, Propylengiycolmonolaurat, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.

Example No. 1% by weight

O / W cream

Self-emulsifying glyceryl sterate 4.00

PEG-40 stearate 1, 00

Cetyl alcohol 3.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 5.00

Paraffinum liquidum 5.00

Licochalcon A 0.05

Arctiin 0.1

Tocopherol 0.1

Na ₃ HEDTA 0.1

Preservative, perfume q.s.

Polyacrylic acid 3.00

Caustic soda 45% q.s

Glycerin 5.00

Water ad100

Example No. 2% by weight

O / W cream

Self-emulsifying glyceryl sterate 3.00

Stearic acid 1, 00

Cetyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 3.00

Dicaprylyl ether 4.00

Paraffinum liquidum 2.00

Licochalcon A 0.01

Arctiin 0.50

Preservative, perfume q.s.

Polyacrylic acid 0.10

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 3.00

Butylene glycol 3.00

Water ad 100

Example No. 3% by weight

O / W cream

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

Stearyl alcohol 2.00

Lanolin alcohol 1.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 4.00

Paraffinum liquidum 8.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Licochalcon A 0.04

Arctiin 2.00

Preservative, perfume q.s.

Caustic soda 45% q.s.

Glycerin 7.50

Water ad100 Example No. 4% by weight

W / O Cream

Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 3.50

Glycerin 3.00

Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 3.50

Licochalcon A 0.1

Arctiin 1, 00

Preservatives q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Magnesium sulfate 0.6

Isopropyl stearate 2.0

Caprylyl ether 8.0

Cetearyl isononanoate 6.0

Water ad 100

Example No. 5% by weight

W / O emulsion

Triceteareth-4-phosphate 0.80

Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.05

Glyceryl alcoholate 1.70

Cyclomethicone 2.20

Isopropyl palmitate 1.00

Licochalcon A 0.10

Arctiin 1.00

Polyacrylic acid 0.50

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 1.00

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Citric acid 0.01

Preservatives q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water ad 100

Claims

claims:

1. Active ingredient combinations

(a) one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and (b) licochalcon A or an aqueous extract from Radix Glycyrrhizae inflatae, containing licochalcon A

2. Active substance combinations according to claim 1, characterized in that the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivative and licochalcone A are present in ratios of 100: 1 to 1:50, preferably 80: 1 to 1:10, particularly preferably 20: 1

3. Active ingredient combinations according to claim 1, characterized in that the arctiin is chosen as the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivative.

4. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient combinations according to claim 1 or 2.

5. Preparations according to claim 3, containing 0.01-25% by weight of one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

6. Preparations according to claim 2 or 3, containing 0.0001 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.001 to 1% by weight, very particularly 0.005 to 0.15% by weight of licochalcone A, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

7. Preparations according to claim 2, 3 or 4, containing 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, very particularly 0.01 to 2 wt .-% of one or more polyols, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Use of active substance combinations or preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined and dry skin.

9. Use of active substance combinations or preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

10. Use of active substance combinations or preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders.

11. Use of active ingredient combinations or preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims to increase ceramide biosynthesis.

12. Use of active ingredient combinations or preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims for strengthening the barrier function of the skin.

13. Use of active substance combinations or preparations according to one or more of the preceding claims for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional disorders of the skin appendages.