EP1626111A1 - Method for manufacturing a circular, tubular knitwear - Google Patents

Abstract

In the production of a tubular knitted finished article (100) consisting of several connected tubes (1, 2, 3) to be subsequently at least partially knitted together, using a flat-bed knitting machine with at least two beds of needles, after knitting the first tube(s) and optionally forming flat or semi-tubular transition regions (4, 5, 8, 8') on the first tube(s), a tubular connecting region (6) is knitted before knitting the next tube(s). An independent claim is included for the articles produced by the process.

Description

The invention relates to a method for producing a tubular finished tubular fabric, in particular a pullover, made of a plurality of interconnected tubes, on a flat knitting machine having at least two needle beds, wherein the individual tubes are knitted at least partially in succession.

Conventionally, tubular tubular ready-made knit fabrics made of a plurality of tubes, such as pullovers, are formed in that the two sleeves and the torso part are simultaneously knitted side by side on the flat knitting machine. After reaching the forearm area, the two sleeves and the torso part are brought together to form a common hose part and the shoulder part is formed as tubular tubular fabric optionally with a collar or a neckline. Since the two sleeves and the body part are formed with separate yarn guides, the sleeves and the body part must be spaced apart by a few needles. Overall, this results in a need for the production of the sleeve and the body part needle space, which is significantly larger than the needle space that would be needed for the production of the body part alone. As a rule, therefore, only such a knitted piece and not several side by side can be formed on a flat knitting machine.

In order to reduce the width of the needle space, DE 19 37 212 C3 has therefore proposed a method for producing a finished tubular tubular knitted fabric in which first the two sleeves are knitted in parallel and then the body part is knitted. This means that the total required needle space only corresponds to that which would also be needed for the body part alone. In the known knitting method, however, knit all needles of the front and the rear needle bed within the needle space, so that only plain knit can be produced. Each sleeve tube is adjoined by the shoulder area, which is formed using a U-shaped thread guide movement. Therefore, the ratio of the sleeve width to the number of sprocket rows for the shoulder area determines the location of the shoulder connection with the trunk. Variations are not possible.

In addition, the number of needles with which the maximum sleeve width can be formed corresponds to half of the reduced by the Kragennadelzahl needle number for the hull. As a result, a free design of the sleeve width is not possible. These limited degrees of freedom to form the shoulder area and the sleeve width is the fit and thus the Comfort of a garment produced by the known method only relatively small.

In addition, the body part can only be formed as a tube of constant diameter, i. H. a sidecut or the like is not possible.

Another disadvantage of the known method is that the total knitted piece at the lower end of the body part, d. H. with the maximum possible number of stitches of the knitted fabric must be abgebettelt. Abkettelvorgänge are very time consuming, thereby resulting in a total of high production times for the knitted pieces.

The present invention has for its object to provide a way Schlauchrundfertiggestricke, which are composed of several tubes to be able to produce a good fit and exemplary design freedom in a narrow needle room.

The object is achieved by a method of the aforementioned type, which according to the invention is characterized in that after knitting the first tube or the first tubes and optionally forming areal or semi-tubular transitional regions on the first tube or tubes, a tubular coupling region prior to knitting subsequent tube or tubes is knitted. For example, the tubes may again be the sleeves or the torso portion of a pullover. Pants can also be knitted by the method according to the invention. In addition, it is possible to apply the method for producing technical knits composed of individual tube parts.

The coupling region creates more degrees of freedom with regard to the diameter configuration of the individual tubes and the region of the tube merger. This knit can be with good Make fit. Due to the staggered formation of the tubes also known from DE 19 37 212 C3 advantage of a needle chamber of small width is also achieved.

The coupling region can be knit with the same, a smaller or a higher number of needles than the previously formed at least one tube. This makes it possible to make the width of the time staggered to each other knitted tubes largely independent of each other.

In the application of the method of manufacturing a pullover, first the trunk portion as a tube, then the chest and upper back portions may be formed as sheet knits on the first and second needle beds and then the shoulder portion knitted as a tubular coupling portion before the two sleeves simultaneously knit as tubes. The shoulder area resulting coupling area here allows the free design of the upper sleeve widths in relation to the fuselage width. Due to the height of the coupling area as well as the outer contour of the chest area and the upper back area almost any sleeve approaches on sweater can be realized. At the beginning of the knitted fabric at the lower end of the body part, the entire knitted fabric is tied off at the cuffs of the sleeves, i. H. with a significantly lower mesh size than in the waistband of the body part.

Nevertheless, it is of course possible, when using the method for producing a pullover, first to knit the two sleeves as tubes simultaneously, then to knit transition areas of the sleeves for coupling to the body part in a tubular-lap-winding technique and then to form the shoulder area as a tubular coupling area, before the chest area and the upper back area of the trunk part are formed as areal knits and then the trunk part as another tube. The free design options of hull width and sleeve width, the sleeve approaches to the torso and the entire shoulder are here just as at the beginning of the pullover in the waistband of the body part.

In the chest area or in the upper back area necklines can of course be knitted. It is also possible to attach a collar, for example a turtleneck, to the pullover.

Further decisive advantages are obtained if stitches are formed with at most every other needle of a needle bed, with a stitched needle of one needle bed facing an empty needle of the other needle bed. As a result, free needles are available, which are needed for Umhängevorgänge. This allows the production of the knitted piece in any binding. In addition, reduction and increase operations are possible, so that the diameters of the individual tubes can be varied. It is also possible to provide the tubes with knit finishes in the form of rib knit sections.

The needle space needed to make the overall knitted piece is approximately the same as that needed to make the tube with the largest diameter. The coupling area may be slightly wider than this tube, but only insignificantly. Overall, therefore, the advantages of the method from DE 19 37 212 C3 fully preserved in the process according to the invention.

Hereinafter, a method according to the prior art and the method according to the invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the drawing.

Fig. 1

eine schematische Darstellung der Herstellung eines Pullovers nach einem Verfahren nach dem Stand der Technik;

Fig. 2

eine schematische Darstellung der Herstellung eines ersten Pullovers nach einem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren;

Fig. 3

eine schematische Darstellung der Herstellung eines zweiten Pullovers nach einem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren.

Show it:

Fig. 1

a schematic representation of the production of a pullover according to a method according to the prior art;

Fig. 2

a schematic representation of the preparation of a first pullover according to a method of the invention;

Fig. 3

a schematic representation of the production of a second pullover according to a method of the invention.

The prior art method illustrated in Figure 1 is a most widely used method. Starting from an initial knitting row AS, up to a knitting row ES a body part 1 ', a right sleeve 2' and a left sleeve 3 'are formed in parallel as separate tubular knits, wherein each of the knitted pieces 1', 2 ', 3' is assigned a separate yarn guide , The body part 1 'can be widened on both sides 11', 12 '. In the sleeves 2 ', 3' can be done mainly on the inner side 21 ', 31' also a mesh increase.

As soon as the knitting row ES is reached, the sleeves 2 ', 3' are connected to the body part 1 '. From this point, only a tubular knit fabric is formed to produce the Schlauchrundfertiggestricks, with usually only one thread guide is used.

As can be seen from Fig. 1, the total required needle space NR-G, which is needed to form the pullover, from the needle space NR-R for the body part 1 ', the needle space NR-AR of the right sleeve 2', the Needle space NR-AL of the left sleeve 3 'and from the spaces A1, A2 between the body part 1' and the two sleeves 2 ', 3' together. The spaces A1, A2 are needed as parking spaces for the yarn guide. 1 thus clarifies that in the method according to the prior art, the total required needle space NR-G is significantly wider than the needle space NR-R for the body part 1 '.

FIG. 2 now shows the implementation of a method according to the invention using the example of a first pullover. First, the body part 1 is formed to the dotted line A in the forearm area. The beginning of the fabric 13 is closed mesh-resistant, since it is formed by the starting knitting row. The body part 1 can be widened on the sides 11, 12 by stitch increase. A reduction of the mesh size and thus a waist of the body part 1 would be possible at any time.

After reaching the forearm line A, the breast area 4 on the front needle bed and the upper back area 5 on the rear needle bed are formed as flat knits. However, by using a spandex knitting technique in which the number of stitched needles is constant but the number of needles involved in the knitting process varies, the contour 41, 41 'of the chest area 4 and the contour 51, 51' of the upper back area 5 are formed. The contours 41, 51 and 41 ', 51' determine the position of the sleeve connection in the overall knit 100. The contours 41, 41 'and 51, 51' of the chest region 4 and the upper back region 5 can be congruent or else different. In addition, in the areas 4, 5 a neckline 7 protrude with a portion 71. The neck cutout region 71 is also formed by means of a felt knitting technique. The chest area 4 and the back area 5 can be created simultaneously or temporally one after the other.

After completion of the areas 4, 5, a shoulder region 6 is formed as a tubular coupling region on the front and rear needle bed. In the shoulder region 6, optimizations of the shoulder fit and changes in the sleeve width can be realized by increasing or decreasing the knitting needles on which stitches are formed in the respective knitting course. In the example shown, the sleeve width is increased by increasing the needles involved in the knitting process in the shoulder region 6. As a result, the total needle space NR-G for the sweater 100 is composed of the needle space NR-R for the body part 1 and the needles for the sleeve broadening AB, AB '. Once the shoulder region 6 is completed, a connection to the shoulder regions 10, 10 'is made by a Ketteltechnik. The collar enclosure 9 is formed as a tubular knit and offsetting stitched.

Subsequently, the right and left sleeves 2, 3 on the front and back needle beds are knitted as tubes. From the points of attachment of the sleeves 2, 3 at the shoulder to their greatest width at the dot-dash line B, B ', these are formed in a tube-round-winding technique and thereby connected to the shoulder (areas 8, 8'). From the line B, B 'both sleeves are made as tubular knits and thereby reduced in width. Subsequently, the sleeves 2, 3 are completed by rib knit cuffs 21, 31 and at the end 22, 32 stitched off safely.

FIG. 3 shows, in the same way as FIG. 2, the production of a tubular ready-to-use 100 "sweater. In the sweater 100 ', the sleeves 20, 30 are narrower in comparison to the sleeves 2, 3 of FIG. 2. This requires a reduction in the number of stitches in the shoulder region 6 '. The Nadelverminderung is designated on the right fabric side with AM 'and on the left fabric side with AM. Thus, in the case of the sweater 100 ', the total needle space NR-G needed for its production is identical to the needle space NR-R required for the body part 1.

The collar solution in the sweater 100 'is a turtle neck 9', which is formed after the completion of the shoulder portion 6 'as a tubular knit. It can be knitted separately or simultaneously with the sleeves 20, 30.

Claims (9)

Method for producing a tubular finished tubular fabric (100, 100 ') made of a plurality of interconnected tubes (1, 2, 3, 20, 30), in particular a pullover, on a flat knitting machine having at least two needle beds, wherein the individual tubes (1, 2 , 3, 20, 30) are knit at least in part successively, characterized in that after the knitting of the first tube (1) or of the first tubes (2, 3, 20, 30) and possibly forming of flat or semi-tubular transition regions (4, 5, 8, 8 ', 80, 80') on the first tube (s) (1), a tubular coupling region (6, 6 ') is knitted prior to knitting the subsequent tube or tubes (2, 3, 20, 30). A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the coupling region (6, 6 ') is knitted with the same, a smaller or a higher number of needles than the previously formed at least one tube (1). A process for producing a pullover according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that first the trunk portion (1) as a tube, then the chest and the upper back region (4, 5) formed as a flat knitted fabric on the first and second needle bed and then the Shoulder region as a tubular coupling region (6, 6 ') are knitted before the two sleeves (2, 3, 20, 30) are knitted simultaneously as tubes. A method of manufacturing a pullover according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that initially knit the two sleeves (2, 3, 20, 30) as tubes simultaneously, then transition areas (8, 8 '; 80, 80') of the sleeves for coupling knit to the body part (1) in a tube-round-Spickeltechnik and then the shoulder region as a tubular coupling region (6, 6 ') are formed before the chest area (4) and the upper back region (5) of the body part (1) as a flat knitted fabric and then the body part (1) are formed as another tube. A method according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that in the chest region (4) and / or the upper back region (5) neck openings (7) are knitted. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that at most with every second needle of a needle bed stitches are formed, wherein a meshed needle of a needle bed facing an empty needle of the other needle bed. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that knit finishes in the form of rib knit sections (21, 31, 21 ', 31') are knitted onto the tubes. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the diameter of at least one of the tubes (1, 2, 3, 20, 30) is varied by mesh increase and / or mesh reduction techniques. Schlauchrundfertiggestrick, prepared by a method according to any one of claims 1 to 8.

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