DE1937214A1 - Knitting method and apparatus - Google Patents

Description

Dr. O. DITTMANH

K. L SHIP DA-3307

Dr. A. ν. F "JNER_

PATENT LAWYERS 8 Munich 9, Bereiteranger 1.5

Telephone 297369 Description '

to the company's patent application

COURTAULDS- LIHITED 18 Hanover Square, London, W. 1, Great Britain,

concerning

Knitting Procedure and Apparatus Priority, July 22, 1968, No. 34853/68, England

The invention relates to a method of knitting a sleeved garment. The procedure can be done on a flat bar knitting machine, knitting at least two each other opposing needle beds, a pendulum head with cam guides to interact with the feet of needles that sliding in grooves or channels in the needle bed «! are attached, for the independent interaction of the needles with each other and has several thread guides with which thread for the formation of knitting loops from the like is fed to needles which are actuated by the pendulum head for this purpose will, -

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BAO ORIGINAL

The phrase "sleeved garment" is used denotes a garment that has a body part and two Has sleeves, each sleeve comprising a shoulder portion, the one with an upper portion of the body part from a forearm area of the body to the upper end of the Body section is connected.

There are two common methods of making sleeves provided garments by knitting or warp-knitting. One of these methods is to make a flat or tubular knitted textile simply cut into suitably shaped body sections and sleeves, which are then used to form the The garment is usually attached by sewing it together will. In the other procedure, the body sections are removed and the sleeves into the desired shapes by appropriately increasing or decreasing the number of stitches in the various ones Courses of stitches are knitted, a process that one. sls "Fashionieren" denotes, whereupon the Kenten again at each other attached, usually by sewing them together.

With both methods you have to have specialists for the "dressing" (making up) of the garments that use in the mutual Attach the edges of the shaped body sections and sleeves. In particular, it is often difficult to provide the sleeves in the body portion of a sleeve To insert the garment so that the sleeves in the finished garment are precisely oriented towards the armholes in the body section and at the right angle to the body

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are partially set. In addition, the hems are sometimes unsightly and seam defects are a reason for complaint form for such garments; either v / eil the hemming not right or too weak and therefore the hem rises while wearing. In the first-mentioned procedure A significant amount of garbage is dropped.

A abandons the present invention is to provide a method for producing a knitted garment with sleeve _f provided that the force required to complete the garment Zurichtarbeit considerably _s reduced such garments as compared to previously known methods for trimming.

According to the invention, a method consists of knitting one with Sleeved garment on a knitting machine in that one shoulder section of each sleeve is in the direction knit towards the obare end of the sleeve in a pendulous way Way on both beds of a couple from opposite one another Beds the machine, making the pieces of textile from each Shoulder section, on opposite beds on the edge of the shoulder section in the outermost area of the machine and run continuously in the finished garment, whereupon the body part of the garment is knitted by em the lower end and the front and rear upper body ends of the garment as a flat textile on different ones Beds of two opposite beds of the

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Machine knits and the front and back upper body " perabschc.it; te after knitting these parts with the shoulder cut the sleeve connects.

The invention also extends to a flat knitting machine for performing the method just described. This Meschine includes two opposed needle beds for knitting the body portion of a garment, at least zwai opposed needle beds, which are separated from the first-mentioned two needle beds and counter W via the first-mentioned two beds to knit the two sleeves of the garment can be moved, Means for joining the shoulder sections of the sleeves to the upper body section of the garment - after these sections have been knitted, as well as yarn guides which are arranged so that the knitting of the two sleeves and a body section of the garment can be done with separate yarns «

Since the inventive method, the sleeves with the Body part are connected before the garment die Leaves the knitting machine, the difficult process step of precisely orienting the sleeves in relation to the body section falls during the final finishing stage of the Garment away.

According to one embodiment of the present invention the body section and the two sleeves as three separate ones

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tubular textiles knitted up to the forearm area. The shoulder portion of each sleeve is then knitted in a pendulum fashion on the beds on which the knitting is being carried out of the sleeve begins, with the Pieces of the knitted textile on the two beds at the edges, which represent the outermost of the machine and in the finished garment run continuously. While knitting the shoulder sections of the sleeves, the number will be of the needles used to knit the shoulder areas gradually decreased, being in the PbII of each shoulder section successive needles in the outward direction of the machine are brought into inactive position. To the at the same time that the shoulder portions are knitted, the knitting of the body portion becomes a separate flat one Textiles, which dio front and back surfaces of the Forming the upper body section, continued. These flat fabrics are knitted on opposite beds of the machine.

As the upper body panels are knitted, the number of needles used to knit each panel gradually becomes from the outer edges of each track inwards on the Machine reduced. This knitting step is carried out in the present example using four separate guides performed, one for each sleeve shoulder section and one for each panel of the torso section. After this last-mentioned knitting stage has been completed

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the rows of stitches of the shoulder sections of the sleeves on the Machine with the rows of front and back flaps of the upper body section by a different method linked together as the trick method, for example with a transmission method or a Sewing process. To do this, the sleeve shoulder cuts must be made Gradually move inward against the panels of the torso section so that it is beneficial to keep the sleeves to knit on beds that are separate from each other and can be moved to the beds on which the body portion is placed is knitted.

iis of course thereupon, des during the above Described knitting process any desired obstacle or Widen to the forearm of the sleeve and part of the body usual diminishing or needle insertion operations can be performed. It should also be noted that the three short lengths of Rechta-rechts-Ware (ribbad fabric) at the beginning of the sleeves and on Beginning of the body section can be knitted.

With the present method a complete, with Sleeved garment can be knitted to its final shape in one operation so that the hems is reduced to a minimum.

. The invention also extends to garments which have been manufactured according to the present process.

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BATH ORIGINAL

The method according to the invention is as follows Example and explained in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Figure 1 is a schematic view of a sleeved one Garment which, according to an embodiment of the invention Procedure has been knitted.

Figure 2 illustrates the parts of the garment at one stage during the manufacture of the garment.

Fig. 3 is. a group of schematic representations of a Flech bed knitting machine in which the stages of knitting of the garment shown in Fig. 1 are explained.

Fig. 4- is another schematic representation of a flat bed knitting machine; wherein a step in the production of a garment according to another embodiment of the invention Procedure is explained.

The illustrated in Fig. 1, provided with sleeves garment includes a body portion 1 and two sleeve portions 2, 3. The sleeves 2, 3 include shoulder areas 4, 5 that are on the Knitting machine with an upper ΐβίΐ 6 of the body portion have been connected.

The knitting of the garment shown in Fig. 1 is carried out

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now using the .Fig. 2 and 3. At every schematic Illustration of the pig. 3 denote the digits 10, 11 opposite main double beds on a flat bed knitting machine, each of which contains a plurality of needles 12 placed equidistantly from one another on the two beds are arranged.

The reference numerals 13, 14 and 16, 17 denote Kadelbettes, of two, more pairs of beds, which are separated from each other and in the longitudinal direction with respect to the beds 10, 11. are movable. The pairs of beds 13, 14 and 16, 17 contain needles 15 and 18, respectively.

The number of needles shown is purely schematic in order to simplify the drawing; it in no way relates to the number of needles ^{actually used in knitting the garment according to I 1} Ig "1. Next, the Bettori 13, 14 as well as the Betten.16 "were 17 shown in. A greater distance apart than the beds 10 and 11, to facilitate the explanation. In practice, \ the batten 13, 14, and 16 and 17 are attached above and below the beds 10, 11 and their needles have relative positions similar to those of the needles of the beds 10,

The scheme Λ of Fig. 3 shows a stage in the knitting of the Body section 1 and the sleeves 2, 3 from the lower ends of the body section and the iirmel as a tubular textile

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SAD ORIÖJNAt

lien on needles on both beds 10, 11, in the case of the body portion, and on beds 13, 14 and 15, 16 in the case, respectively the sleeve. These three tubular textiles are made with Knitted yarn, dss via separate thread guides 21, 22 and 25 is fed.

The knitting of the body section and sleeves is carried out until Forearm area, of the garment, and if necessary, expansion takes place by inserting needles.

After the tubular sections of the body part and the sleeve has been completed, the shoulder sections become 4-, j5 »of the sleeve as well as the front and back The panel of the upper body portion 6 is knitted with yarn being fed from four yarn guides at the same time. The knitting is done with a progressive decrease in the number of needles used to knit both the torso panels and the shoulder sections the sleeve can be used. This knitting stage is explained by scheme B in FIG. 3.

The shoulder portions 4, 5 of the sleeves are knitted by pendulum knitting. In diagram B of FIG. 5 , the dash-dotted lines 27, 28 indicate how the knitting of the shoulder sections using yarn from the yarn guides 21, for example. 23 is carried out. In this scheme, the stitches, which have just been knitted in the considered Hssehenreihe, as a circle around the © Hadslsi 1? or 18

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shown while the stitches that have been knitted during previous courses and on non-knitting Needles are held in place, shown as squares around the needles will. In the case of each shoulder section are on top of each other following needles are made inactive, in the direction out of the machine. As for sleeve 2, this leads for the formation of textiles 31, 32 on the needles of the beds 13 and / or. 14, v / obei the textiles only on the edge of the sleeve, which the outermost one is on the machine and in the finished garment run continuously. In the same way, textiles 33 and 34 are placed on the needles of beds 15 and 16 produced with the formation of the shoulder section 5 of the arm 3, these textiles only on the edge of the sleeve 3 »soft the extreme on the machine and on the finished garment, continue to run. Because during this knitting stage the number of people involved in knitting the shoulder pieces Needles gradually from the innermost needles outwards is decreased, the shape of the sleeve shown in Figs. 1 and 2 is produced. Sections 2s and 3s of the Sleeves are tubular and the school sections © 4 and 5 are made with U-shaped pendulum rows of stitches, as described above, manufactured*

Simultaneously with the knitting de? Selmltörabseteoitte 'ä w & lna @ l is the upper portion 6 of the body part knitted textiles ice fish 35 and 36, which the front wiü bac & wärfeigö path of the upper body 6 form β bschüitirs "Here Qewn üb # r

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the yarn guide 22 and also supplied via the Gernführer 37. The textile 35 is knitted with pleasure on needles of the bed 10, which is supplied via the yarn guide 22 and the textile 36 is knitted on the needles of the bed 11 with pleasure, the one over the. Garnführer 37 is fed. If these fladhen textiles 35i 36, the number of needles used in each of the beds 10, 11 becomes gradually inward from each edge of the body part of the textile is reduced so that, one after the other, needles carrying loops of the textiles 35, 36 are idle be made. In the scheme B of Fig. 3, stitches are one on top of the other following rows of stitches gaseous, as circles all around the needles while panties that are held on non-operating needles as squares are shown around the reproaches. If you idle the needles as described above, the upper body panels 6 are formed, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 shows »After completing the knitting step just described, the sleeves and the body section of the garment were left hanging, shaped as in Fig. 2, on the needles of the knitting machine en the edges 41, 42, 4-3, 44 and 45. The dashed Lines 46 in Figure 2 indicate that the adjacent parts of the garment are held on idle needles in the needle bed and that this part of the garment is therefore not in the position shown on the machine, but is held on one of the needle beds.

Once of the knitting of the torso legs and shoulder sections the sleeve is finished, the shoulder sections

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the sleeve on the machine is connected to the edges of the upper body panels by a stitch transfer or with a sewing device attached to the machine, the sleeve sections being moved inwardly against the upper body balines to the extent that the joining proceeds. In order to avoid any possible disturbance of the two beds on which the sleeves are knitted during the joining of the torso panels to the shoulder portions of the sleeves of a raglan garment as shown in Figs be Ärmal-shoulder portion with the front and rear upper body panel terminated before connecting the other Ärmelschulterabschnltits begins with your other end of the upper body panels, Mr will knit to However, other types of garments according to the present method, it may be possible to provide both sleeves shoulder portions with the Connect upper body panels at the same time.

A method of transferring a sleeve with the upper body tracts is; explained in scheme C of FIG. 3. in the upper part of the scheme are beds 15 and 16 inside, along beds 10 and 11, moved, and one stalk of that Textile 55 was pulled from a needle 4-9 of bed 10 onto a needle 50 of the bed 15 transferred. The transmission itself can be done in different ways, e.g. a transmission point above the needle beds to lower onto the needle 49, pick up their mesh and be arranged for subsequent movement to the needle 50 and for dispensing the mesh. One can

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.but first look for the stitch on needle 49 on an empty one Needle of the opposite auxiliary bed 16 and then from this Transfer the needle to the needle 50 of the bed 15. Acquaintance Transfer needles can be used for this process. Empty needles would of course have to be attached to the inner ends of the Beds 15 and 16 may be arranged so that the stitches can be transferred to both beds in this way.

Whichever transmission system is used, it is arranged so that the sleeve height is on the 50th mesh of the Betts 15 is moved below the tongue sn this needle, while the body part stitch on the needle 50 from the hook the needle is picked up. The body part masohe then becomes pulled through the sleeve stitch leaving the body part stitch on the needles 50 in order for the subsequent joining process to be ready"

the lower part of scheme C shows a transmission of a Armelmssehe on a corner of the bed 11. Tuck Masehe becomes picked up by the hook of the needle and through the body part loop drawn"

Transmissions can be made in both directions, but transmissions that are carried out at the same time are usually made in the same direction, in the ratio of Batten 15 and IS _9, that is to say that a Me.sehe voa both beds removed © the one March® on bsida beds

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The number of transfers from sleeves to the body in the Compared to the number of transfers from the body to the sleeve, which were carried out to connect the sleeve to the body part depends on the shapes of the torso portion and shoulder portions of the sleeves.

Meshes on mesh connections are made in the manner just described Way made and beds 15 and 16 will be progressive moved inward when the edges 45 fflit the edges 44 are connected, one at their abutting Ends (their lower ends in Mg. 2) starts and goes to the innermost Ends of the edges 44 and the extreme ends of the channels th 45 advances. Upon completion of the joining process, the garment is placed on the needle beds 10 and 11 from needle-holding the edges 43 of the neck portion of the Garment held. Walls of waste yarn can be knitted on the flaps, or they can immediately squeezed in the normal way.

In Fig. 4 is a method of connecting the island to the body portion using one? Hall facility b # s <shi? ± e »ben, which carries out a connection activity. Haschen w @ i? D @ B turn like that. transmitted that swel mesons are carried by dsr -like Ua del, but in this fsIl both are led into the hook of the needle, Ansctiliesseed visa 4i © aagehobeii, where there are two Msehezi from & ®m Msikon and on a masehenverfeeiler & ut itir Hadel ti?% T * Kims

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BATH

A sewing device (not shown) attached to the machine is inserted through the loops. The needle of the sewing device carries a connecting thread and a looper holds that Connects and forms a hook when this needle is withdrawn will. The two masks are now withdrawn from their needle and another transfer takes place * so that another two stitches are held on an adjacent needle. The sewing equipment now becomes this adjacent needle moves and the two bottles that she carries are penetrated by the needle of the sewing device, which also the The thread of the connecting thread penetrates the looper is held. The two meshes on this neighboring needle v / earth is removed, a further transfer carried out and the hall device is moved to a further connecting activity to effect, etc. Beds 15 and 16 become progressive moved inward during this process and after the sleeve 3 has been connected to the body part, the Sleeve 2 connected to it in the same way.

In Fig. 4 the connection of the stitches with threads is indicated, which penetrate the two pairs of hooks, which are each held on a needle.

Transfers from panties can turn from the body part to the sleeves or the sleeve on the body part are made depending on of the shapes of the torso portion and the shoulder portions of the sleeves.

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The methods described above can be modified in various ways. For example, one can begin with the sleeves 2, 3 with a right-right section 52, 53 (ripped portion) and the body section with a right-right section 5 ^, as shown in FIG. It is of course not necessary for the sleeves 2, 3 to have the length shown in FIG. 1. For example, the sleeves 2, 3 in the dash-dot lines 55 _f 1 56 may represent Fig. Terminate. Here too, the body part 1 does not have to be in the form of a closed tube, but rather it can have a

* opening downwards, as indicated by the dash-dotted line * taiLines 57 is indicated, so that one can look for a piece of clothing Kind of a sweater gets. Of course, the front panel of the upper section of the body part 1 can have a V-shaped opening, as indicated by the dash-dotted lines 58 is. Each rib border is placed on needles of one bed and on an opposite bed of another pair of beds knitted, and when the bar is finished, the stitches on needles of this opposite bed are

. your of the same bed transferred between the needles that already Keep washing after the strips or hems for the anterior and posterior part of the body portion as well as the Sleeves have been knitted, all other strips or hems on the second bed of the bed pair including the mentioned one and on a bed of another Pear opposite- knitted over the second bed. At the end of the last biLW. Hems are stitches transferred so that all stitches are on

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Needles of the second bed. Knitting then continues, for example in accordance with one of the above described method, instead of using a sewing device, the 3β two auxiliary beds for knitting according to the above described Process, know a machine with only two auxiliary beds with the beds long enough to accommodate the Sleeves can be knitted on it in positions that are free of the positions where the body part of the garment is knitted * The sleeves can then be knitted one after the other be connected to the body part, since both sleeves are not at the same time can be placed inside on the machine.

The described knitting methods can also be done on one machine which does not have auxiliary beds by running all the stitches of the sleeves inwards along the two opposite ones Main beds of the machine while joining sleeves transfers with the body part "

When the garment is knitted on a machine, the me has two auxiliary beds that stretch over the entire or will extend substantially the entire length of the machine the simultaneous knitting of the three ledges or »hem sections one each for the Arael and one for the body section, arleichtrart.

If the garment is called ea * f © by the Striekinasoiiine, the zuel strips, - bsw, Ssinaabsöhsltte at the front and

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backward.part of the garment to each other "missed.

As when knitting the oversized portion of the garment and the shoulder sections of the Irinel the number of used Needles is gradually decreased, and some of the stitches are kept on idle needles, it is preferable to »that Do not pull off the textile in the usual way. The garment is therefore preferably knitted * z, B »on a machine with inclusion platiries (v / ab holding sinkers) or up a machine with a press foot, like this in the British Patent specification 86? 6? 8 described 1st.

Patent claims

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ORIGINAL

Claims (1)

Claims /u.·) A method for fabrication of a sleeved garment on a knitting machine, characterized GEK θ η η ζ β I _s η et reacting an Schulterebschnitt Each sleeve in the direction against the upper side of the Ärmele in pendeiförmiger manner on both beds of two opposite beds of the machine knit so that the pieces of fabric from feather shoulder portion to opposite beds at the edge of the shoulder portion at the outermost part of the machine and in the finished garment continuously continue, whereupon one begins with the knitting of the body part of the garment at the bottom and the knits the front and back torso portions of the garment as a false textile on different beds of two opposite beds of the machine and joins the front and back torso portions to the shoulder portions of the sleeves after knitting those portions. 2 «The method according to claim 1, characterized e t that msn the front and back torso sections connects the shoulder sections of the sleeves with a stitch transfer process or a sewing process, J. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that that the sleeves on opposite needle beds - 19 909887/1157 BAV ORISIWÄL 19372H 9.0 are knitted that are separated from each other and to the beds on which the body section can be moved is knitted. 4. Flat knitting machine to carry out the process according to Claim 1 including two opposing needle beds for knitting the body part of a garment and at least two opposing needle beds that are separated from one another and form the first pair of beds Knitting the two sleeves of the garment can be moved, characterized by a device for connecting the shoulder portions of the iirmel to the upper body portion of the garment according to the Knit these sections and through yarn guides that are arranged to each use separate yarn Knit the two sleeves and one part of the body for the Feed garment " 5. Flachßtriclanaschine according to claim 4 ·, characterized in that the device has a mechanism for transferring stitches between needles from opposite beds of the machine and for pulling them off of a transferred stitch through a stitch previously held on a needle, around the two To connect stitches together. 6. Flat knitting machine according to claim 4, characterized in that g e k e η η -? - 20 - 909887/1157 GAS draws »that the establishment transfer points which are attached above the needle beds and. are arranged so that they descend on a needle, pick up a stitch from her to end up rather Move the needle and drop the stitch there. 7. Flat knitting machine according to claim 5i, characterized in that the device has a device for Transferring stitches between needles from opposite beds the machine has so that two stitches are used Intervention can be brought to a mesh distributor on the same needle, and by a device for ver * tie the two stitches by another pleasure, 8. Flat knitting machine nsch claim 4, 5 or 6, characterized marked that two opposite one another Needle beds are arranged separately from each other and can be moved to the first-mentioned needle bed and each is capable of knitting a sleeve of a stitches To pick up the garment - 21 -