EP1463485B1 - Methode de traitement ultrasonore de cheveux et d'autres fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Methode de traitement ultrasonore de cheveux et d'autres fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1463485B1
EP1463485B1 EP02798488A EP02798488A EP1463485B1 EP 1463485 B1 EP1463485 B1 EP 1463485B1 EP 02798488 A EP02798488 A EP 02798488A EP 02798488 A EP02798488 A EP 02798488A EP 1463485 B1 EP1463485 B1 EP 1463485B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
chelant
fiber
hair
treatment device
ultrasonic
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EP02798488A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1463485A2 (fr
Inventor
Michael Andrew Olshavsky
Ke Ming Quan
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/20—Additional enhancing means
    • A45D2200/207—Vibration, e.g. ultrasound
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/51—Chelating agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of the use of ultrasonic devices for the treatment of keratinous fibers with a chelant.
  • the desired color is produced by chemically treating the naturally produced fiber pigment, melanin.
  • Melanin is formed in a hair bulb at the root of the hair and deposited into the central part of the hair shaft, as the hair grows.
  • the hair shaft which has two major regions (the cuticle region (exterior) and a cortex region (interior)), comprises dead cells that have differentiated into a mixture of different forms of the hair protein, keratin. Keratin within the cuticle region, contains high concentrations of the amino acid cystine. Each cystine molecule comprises two cystine amino acids cross-linked by a disulfide bond that provides the cuticle with most of its hydrophobic properties, physical durability, and stability to swelling.
  • the cuticle is a protective layer for the hair, preserving the integrity of the cortex.
  • the cortex provides rigidity and most of the mechanical properties to the hair fiber.
  • a typical hair lightening process achieves a lightening effect by oxidation of the melanin pigments using bleaches.
  • Bleaches typically comprise an oxidizing agent in an alkaline solution.
  • Typical oxidizing agents are hydrogen peroxide, potassium, sodium, or ammonium salts of perborate or percarbonate, persulfate, and percarbamate.
  • the traditional permanent coloring process utilizes permanent, or oxidative, dyes consisting of small molecules capable of diffusion into the hair fiber.
  • these molecules belong to three classes of aromatic compounds: diamines, aminophenols, and phenols.
  • diamines, aminophenols, and phenols The small size of these molecules facilitates diffusion into the hair shaft where they are activated by an oxidative material to form a larger colored complex within the hair shaft.
  • Chelants can be applied to a keratinous fiber to remove, mask, or inactivate bound minerals. Removing these minerals can lessen visible fiber damage.
  • the effectiveness of a chelant is primarily a function of the rate of penetration of the chelant into the fiber.
  • a typical chelant-based treatment comprises a step where a hair fiber is contacted with a blend of chelating agents at a concentration of 4 to 25 percent w/w and a pH ranging between 4 and 10.
  • Ultrasonic mechanical vibrations are generally produced by Piezoelectric devices. Piezoelectric devices convert electrical impulses into mechanical vibrations by developing a mechanical motion by deforming certain crystals under pressure. Resonant crystals and ceramics are used to generate such mechanical waves in solids and liquids. For high frequency, ultra-sonic vibrations to be generated, crystals operate in their thickness mode (the crystal becomes altematingly thicker and thinner as it vibrates.)
  • While the materials described are suitable for bleaching or dying a hair fiber, the nature of the process by which a fiber is dyed can be process sensitive. For example, the maximum speed at which such treatment occurs can be limited by the effectiveness of the chelant molecule, the treatment time, the rigor of the treatment, and/or the concentration of chelant in the compound. Accordingly, it would be desirable to provide an improved process suitable to treat fibers with a chelant. It is desirable to reduce the deleterious effects described above. It would be an improvement in the art to provide a novel process to treat a keratinous fiber, such as hair, using less chemical agent, and provide a faster, less labor intensive, and more topically efficacious treatment experience.
  • the process for the oxidative treatment of keratinous fibers comprises placing a chelant proximate to a keratinous fiber and placing an ultrasonic treatment device proximate to the keratinous fiber.
  • the ultrasonic treatment device is energized to produce a topically efficacious energy.
  • the topically efficacious energy is applied from the ultrasonic treatment device to the keratinous fibers so that the topically efficacious energy efficaciously deposits the chelant onto the keratinous fiber.
  • kits comprising at least one chelant and at least one active agent combined in a container is provided for the oxidative treatment of keratinous fibers.
  • the present invention is related to the use of an ultrasonic device for the application of a chelant to fibers such as keratinous fibers, typically hair.
  • oxidative treatment of fiber is intended to encompass all treatments of fibers comprising at least one step of contacting a fiber with at least one oxidizing composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of oxidative treatments include hair bleaching, hair highlighting, hair dyeing, hair perming, and hair straightening.
  • oxidizing composition means a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as, but not limited to, hydrogen peroxide, sodium, potassium, ammonium or other salts of perborate, percarbonate, persulfate, and percarbamate.
  • chelant defines a molecule containing two or more electron donor atoms that can form a coordination bond to a single ion, such as a metal. After the formation of the first such coordinate bond, each successive donor atom that binds creates a ring containing the metal ion. The cyclic structure that is formed is called a chelate. Chelants are widely used as stabilizing agents in compositions containing hydrogen peroxide.
  • chelants Members of a class of diamine or monoamine monoamide-N,N'-dipolyacids, N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acids, precursors thereof, salts thereof, and combinations thereof, show excellent oxidative damage inhibiting properties over other known chelants, especially EDTA.
  • these chelants are especially efficient at a pH greater than 8.
  • amine-based chelants improve the efficiency of an oxidizing agent and provide a better feel to the fiber after treatment.
  • the chelant may have a concentration from about 0.5 to about 40 percent by weight, more preferably about 0.5 to about 10 percent by weight, and most preferably from about 2 to about 5 percent by weight.
  • diamine-N,N'-dipolyacids suitable for use can be synthesized by the reaction of a diamine with an anhydride or an unsaturated polyacid.
  • Diamine starting materials for the preparation of diamine-N,N'-dipolyacids include diamines having the general formula: R 1 R 2 N -(CH 2 ) n - NR 3 R 4 , where R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are typically hydrogen or C 1 to C 4 alkyl or alenyl groups, n is an integer from 1 to 8, and the CH 2 units are optionally substituted with hydroxyl or amino groups.
  • Preferred diamines include, but are not limited to, ethylene diamine, 1,3-propylene diamine, and 2-hydroxy-1,3-propylenediamine.
  • any anhydride or unsaturated polyacid capable of reacting with a diamine to form a diamine-N,N'-dipolyacid may also be used.
  • An exemplary, non-limiting, anhydride is maleic anhydride.
  • An exemplary, non-limiting, unsaturated polyacid is maleic acid.
  • Preferred diamine dipolyacids derived from diacids and suitable for use herein include, but are not limited to, ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), precursors thereof, salts thereof, and combinations thereof.
  • EDDS ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid
  • EDDG ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid
  • HPDDS 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid
  • An exemplary, but non-limiting preferred monoamine monoamide-N,N'-dipolyacid is glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), precursors thereof, salts thereof, and combinations thereof.
  • GDS glycinamide-N,N'-dis
  • N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid is ethylenediamine-N-N -bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl) acetic acid (EDDHA), precursors thereof, salts thereof, and combinations thereof.
  • EDDHA ethylenediamine-N-N -bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl) acetic acid
  • An exemplary method for forming EDDS is found in U.S. Patent No. 3,158,635, issued to Kezerian, and herein incorporated by reference.
  • the chelant is typically used in combination with at least one active agent, such as an oxidizing composition.
  • the active agent preferably comprises a water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agent.
  • Water soluble means a compound that can be substantially solubilized in water. Such water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing materials are valuable for the initial solubilization and decolorization of the melanin within the fiber substrate.
  • Peroxygen bleaching compounds useful are generally peroxygen materials capable of yielding hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution.
  • water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing compounds include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide, organic alkali peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide, and inorganic perhydrate salt bleaching compounds such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates, and the like which may be incorporated as monohydrates or tetrahydrates.
  • the active agent present in the compositions of the present invention may be applied from about 0.5 to about 40 percent by weight of the composition.
  • the level is expressed in weight percent of the composition.
  • the weight percent of oxidizing agent to oxidative damage inhibiting chelant e.g. EDDS
  • FIG. 1 depicts an embodiment of a fiber treatment device 10.
  • Fiber treatment device 10 generally comprises an ultrasound generator 11 and comb device 12.
  • Comb device 12 has a proximal end 17 and a distal end 15, and comprises a device for converging fibers into a region proximate to ultrasound generator 11.
  • a reflector 13 is attached to the distal end 15 of comb device 12.
  • Comb device 12 is preferably physically coupled to ultrasound generator 11. However, as would be known to one of skill in the art, it is possible to provide ultrasound generator 11 and comb device 12 as separate components without physical attachment. If physical coupling or attachment is desired, an insulator material can be provided between comb device 12 and the ultrasound generator 11. Alternatively, physical attachment can be accomplished by attaching comb device 12 to an insulative housing encasing ultrasound generator 11.
  • comb device 12 is acoustically insulated from ultrasound generator 11. Acoustic insulation or acoustically insulated as used in the present invention means that comb device 12 is not acoustically resonant with ultrasound generator 11. This means that comb device 12 remains stationary while ultrasound generator 11 is active.
  • Physical coupling and acoustic insulation can be accomplished by the choice of construction and the method of physical attachment of comb device 12 to ultrasound generator 11. Because comb device 12 is preferably not acoustically coupled to ultrasound generator 11, the materials selected to manufacture comb device 12 should preferably be insulative in nature, such as plastic or wood. However comb device 12 can be manufactured from metal and provide no acoustic coupling, for example, by providing an acoustic insulator between ultrasound generator 11 and comb device 12. Additionally, polymeric materials can be impregnated with a metal, or metals, to provide an acoustically insulated comb device 12 that provides an efficacious, ultra-sonic, fiber treatment. A metal impregnated polymer can provide a more resilient structural device, yet still provide the physical acoustic insulative ability required.
  • Z 1 the acoustic impedance of wet fiber
  • Z 2 the acoustic impedance of the reflector.
  • Acoustic velocity is the speed at which a pressure wave propagates in the selected medium.
  • Reflector 13 is preferably attached to the distal end 15 of comb device 12 to form an open cavity 15 between reflector 13 and ultrasound generator 11. It is preferred that the materials selected to construct the reflector 13 provide an overall reflectance, R, so that R > 0, and more preferably the materials selected to construct the reflector 13 provide an overall reflectance, R, so that R 0.5.
  • the inner surface should be constructed of a material that effectively reflects acoustic waves generated by ultrasound generator 11.
  • exemplary and non-limiting reflective materials include metals and porous materials, such as wood.
  • reflector 13 is constructed to have a thin metal sheet, film, or foil that has a region of air behind and positioned away from ultrasound generator 11 so that an acoustic vibration originating from ultrasound generator 11 will be significantly reflected in an opposite direction from the incident wave. This is generally known in the art as an air-backed reflector. Without desiring to be bound by theory, it is believed that such a reflector is effective because air generally has significant contrasting acoustic impedance relative to any liquid or solid material.
  • the distal end 15 of comb device 12 is also provided with a plurality of protuberances 14 to increase the coupling of fibers located between ultrasound generator 11 and reflector 13.
  • protuberances 14 are not affected by ultrasound generator 11 and form no part of the overall ultrasonic mathematical equation provided supra.
  • the cavity 16 size incorporated into comb device 12 for instance, depth, width and length, so that within the cavity 16, the ultrasonic field is uniform to provide even fiber treatment.
  • the ultrasonic field intensity decays rapidly and should minimally impact fibers outside the defined periphery of comb device 12. This decay makes an ultrasonic treatment safe for fibers and other unintended objects, especially hair dyeing, even in the hair root region where the skin on the scalp is in the vicinity of the operative fiber treatment device 10.
  • the optimum size of the cavity 16 depends on the applied ultrasonic frequency, ⁇ .
  • k is a linear coefficient determined by the slope of the line comparing optimal comb length, L, to applied frequency, ⁇ .
  • exemplary and non-limiting values for k have been found to range from 0.009 cm/KHz to 0.020 cm/KHz. Most preferably the value for k is 0.013 cm/KHz.
  • Power for ultrasound generator 12 can be provided by either conventional commercial methods and converted to a necessary voltage by power supply 18.
  • batteries contained within fiber treatment device 10 can provide power for ultrasound generator 12. Internal batteries could enable fiber treatment device 10 to be placed within a recharging receptacle while not in use.
  • the fiber treatment device 10 may be heated, or another source of heat may be supplied if a fiber treatment regimen requires thermal energy to provide a more efficacious treatment.
  • fiber treatment device 10 preferably includes a number of reservoirs 19, optionally cartridges.
  • One advantage of a multiple reservoir dispensing system is that materials that would be incompatible for storage together may be stored in separate reservoirs and then dispensed together for use. Because the materials are mixed at the point of use as needed, there is better control over the amount of product mixed, resulting in minimal or no wasted product.
  • any suitable reservoir 19 may be utilized in the present invention. It should be understood that the reservoir utilized may be fully or partially internal, or external, to the fiber treatment device 10, and may or may not be removable from the fiber treatment device 10. Additionally, the reservoir 19 utilized may be refillable or disposable. Non-limiting examples of suitable reservoirs 19 include positive displacement type reservoirs, such as a cartridge, and pump-evacuated type reservoirs, such as sachets, bladders, blisters, and combinations thereof. It is also believed that pre-loaded cartridge reservoirs could be used as single use disposable cartridges, multiple use disposable cartridges, or refillable cartridges, and that empty cartridges may be available for loading with suitable materials by the end user.
  • the reservoir 19 may be adapted for dispensing equal or unequal amounts of material.
  • the dispensing system may be utilized for the delivery of precise, controlled, or efficacious amounts of treatment materials. It is also preferred that one or more of the reservoirs 19 of the present invention be loaded with a fiber treatment material in a sequential fashion. Sequential dispensing may also be accomplished by sequentially dispensing from different reservoirs 19 or combinations of reservoirs 19. Further, it should also be understood that a number of repeatable sequences could also be dispensed from either one cartridge or a combination of cartridges.
  • Reservoirs 19 are placed within the reservoir holder with one or more of the reservoirs 19 in liquid communication with the comb device 12.
  • Dispensing actuator 20 is adapted to dispense material from reservoir 19 through dispensing passageways 21 a, 21b to comb device 12.
  • At least one dispensing apertures 22a, 22b is fluidly connected to dispensing passageways 20a, 20b and release material either from an aperture 22b disposed on comb device 12, from an aperture 22a located on protuberance 14, or both.
  • incompatible chemistries, or chemistries that, after mixing, have a finite shelf life are mixed and/or dispensed at the point of application directly to the fibers. Further, the chemistries are further mixed at the point of application by the presence of the mechanical, ultrasonic vibrations produced by ultrasound generator 11.
  • a method of use for a fiber treatment device commensurate with the scope of the present invention provides for the treatment of fibers, more particularly keratinous fibers, and even more particularly, hair. It is preferred that a user pre-wets the fibers to be ultrasonically treated.
  • pre-wetting hair include rinsing with water and/or cleaning the hair fibers with a cleaner, such as shampoo, or a cleaner/conditioner, such as PertPlus TM , manufactured by The Procter & Gamble Company.
  • the chelant, and/or active compound which can be supplied singly or in containerized kit form, is applied to the fibers in a topically efficacious amount to produce the results desired for the fiber being treated.
  • the chelant, and/or active compound is dispensed directly from the fiber treatment device when the fiber treatment device is equipped with reservoirs containing the chelant, and/or active compound.
  • the chelant, and/or active compound can be manually applied to the fibers through conventional methodologies.
  • the operationally energized fiber treatment device is placed in contact with the treated fibers preferably using a steady and continuous motion from the root end of the fiber to the tip end of the fiber. Preferably, this motion is repeated until all desired fibers are efficaciously treated. It has been surprisingly found that approximately five minutes of treating fibers with a topically efficacious amount of an active compound using the ultrasonic fiber treatment device of the present invention is comparable to thirty minutes of treatment using prior art methods. Thus, the total time required to provide an efficacious treatment of a full head of hair can be reduced from current 30-40 minute procedures to approximately 5-10 minutes total treatment time with the present invention.
  • the total time required to provide such a topically efficacious treatment will depend upon the length and thickness of the fibers being treated and the desired resultant color intensity.
  • Damage to a hair fiber may be confined to the cuticle or to the entire fiber during chemical oxidation cosmetic treatments, such as bleaching or coloring.
  • cuticle layers are generally damaged before any damage can occur to the cortex of the fiber. Therefore, damage tests that focus more on surface changes can be more sensitive than those that rely on whole fiber changes. Results of damage assessment of chemically oxidized hair using the surface sensitive technique of Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM), can correlate strongly with data generated using other damage assessment methods.
  • SEM Scanning Electron Microscopy
  • SEM has high resolution, a wide range of magnifications, and a high depth of focus and is suitable as a visualization technique for fiber quality analysis to examine the architecture of the cuticle.
  • SEM can also quantify geometrical dimensions of fiber cross-sections (including determination of major and minor axis length), to characterize fiber fractures, and show alterations in fiber morphology due to cosmetic treatments including chemical oxidation and/or reduction.
  • FTIR Fourier Transform Infrared
  • the nominal FTIR conditions utilized a spectral resolution of 4 cm -1 , a data interval of 0.7 cm -1 , a mirror scan speed of 0.2 cm cm -1 , and a scan range of 4,000 cm -1 to 600 cm -1 .
  • Exemplary hair switches were platted ( 1 plait/cm) and were analyzed at four locations and results were recorded as a calculated average of the four readings.
  • a background reading was made after every four measurements at an ATR cell pressure of 1 N/m.
  • the resulting sample spectra were then converted to an absorbance measurement and then normalized to the characteristic protein CH 2 stretch band at 1450 cm -1 .
  • the normalized absorbance reading was then twice derivatized using a 13 point averaging system, so that the values of the 1450 cm -1 normalized second derivative of the absorbance at 1040 cm -1 were taken as the as the relative concentration of cysteic acid.
  • a cysteic acid concentration of less than about 150 is believed to provide the most efficacious topical result and still provide minimal oxidative damage.
  • the level of bleaching and oxidative damage to subject hair switches was determined by comparative colorimetric measurements of the increase in lightening of the treated vigin hair substrate and the virgin hair substrate. The colorimetric measurements were made with a colorimeter manufactured by the Hunter Corporation. The comparative change in lightening was reported as ⁇ L in color space using L.a.b. coordinates.
  • Hair bleaching using the bleaching process discussed supra was conducted over 5 bleaching cycles and the resulting cumulative ultrasonic oxidative damage was measured and compared to control samples.
  • a bleach cycle included the application of a standard bleaching solution to a hair switch, followed by application of ultrasound directly to the hair switch for 10 minutes.
  • the control samples used a bleach cycle applying a standard bleaching solution to a hair switch that was then wrapped in a plastic film and placed in an oven at 30°C for 30 minutes.
  • the concentration of calcium and magnesium ions in the rinse treatment water was not modified from standard, municipally supplied potable water.
  • the copper ion concentration of the treatment water was about 1 ppm, however, the exact concentration was gravimetrically determined.
  • the rinsing water flow was maintained at 1.8 gallons/minute (6.8 liters/minute).
  • Switche hair means hair that has never been chemically treated. Such hair is available from Hugo Royer International Ltd, Berkshire, England.
  • a switch typically weighed about 1.5 grams.
  • Each switch was treated with a bleaching composition mixture having equal amounts, by weight, of hydrogen peroxide emulsion base and alkaline (high pH) emulsion base. The pH of the mixture was buffered to 10 by the alkaline emulsion base.
  • the bleaching composition was applied to all virgin hair fiber switches at a rate of two grams per gram of hair fiber, and manually massaged in thoroughly. Select hair switches were treated for 10 minutes by contact with a Sonic & Materials® model VC 134 ultrasonic horn, at an output of 20 to 30 W at 25°C and an acoustic frequency of 40 kHz.
  • All hair switches were then rinsed for 1 minute with water. Two replicate shampooings and 30 second milkings were conducted using 0.1g of metal ion free Pantene® Clarifying shampoo, manufactured by The Procter & Gamble Company, having less than 0.1% by weight chelant, per gram of hair. Each switch was then rinsed for 30 seconds and then squeeze dried and fan dried. This procedure was repeated five times on each hair switch.
  • the hydrogen peroxide emulsion base contained:
  • the alkaline emulsion base contained:
  • Example 1 Ultrasonic Bleach formulation with EDDS
  • the bleaching composition described supra was formulated with a chelant comprising 2.0% wt/wt of the trisodium salt of EDDS and applied to triplicate selected hair switches over five replicate cycles using the method described supra.
  • the bleaching composition described supra was formulated with an equivalent weight percent of deionized water in place of the chelant. This composition was applied over five cycles to another triplicate of virgin hair switches.
  • Example 3 Conventional Bleach formulation with EDDS
  • the bleaching composition as described supra was formulated with a chelant comprising 2.0% wt/wt of the trisodium salt of EDDS.
  • a triplicate of hair switches were treated and individually wrapped in a plastic film and heated at 30°C for 30 minutes. Each switch was then removed from the oven and the film and rinsed for one minute in water. Each switch was then shampooed and rinsed as described supra, however, no ultrasonic treatment was used. This procedure was applied over five cycles to each hair switch.
  • a bleaching composition described supra was formulated with an equivalent weight percent of deionized water in place of the chelant. Each selected hair switch was treated with this composition and processed as described in Example 3.
  • FIG. 2 is a prior art SEM image 20 of normal, untreated keratinous fibers 21.
  • FIG. 3 is a prior art SEM image 30 of a damaged cuticle 31 resulting from not using a chelating agent in accord with the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is an SEM image 40 of ultrasonically treated keratinous fibers 41 with an applied chelating agent in accordance with the disclosure discussed supra. As FIG. 3 depicts, the total loss of cuticle 31 can be a catastrophic event resulting in negative hair quality aspects.

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Claims (18)

  1. Procédé pour le traitement oxydant d'au moins une fibre kératinique comprenant les étapes consistant à :
    (a) placer un agent chélatant à proximité de ladite au moins une fibre kératinique ;
    (b) placer un dispositif de traitement à ultrasons à proximité de ladite fibre kératinique ;
    (c) énergiser ledit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons pour produire une énergie topiquement efficace ; et,
    (d) appliquer ladite énergie topiquement efficace à partir dudit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons vers ladite fibre kératinique ;
    dans lequel ladite énergie topiquement efficace dépose de manière efficace ledit agent chélatant sur ladite fibre kératinique.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite étape (a) comprend le choix dudit agent chélatant dans le groupe comprenant des diamine-N,N'-dipolyacides, des monoamine monoamide-N,N'-dipolyacides, des acides N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)éthylène-diamine-N,N'-diacétiques, leurs précurseurs, leurs sels, et leurs combinaisons.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 2, dans lequel ladite étape (a) comprend le choix dudit agent chélatant dans le groupe comprenant un éthylène-diamine-N,N'-acide disuccinique (EDDS), un éthylène-diamine-N,N'-acide diglutarique (EDDG), un 2-hydroxypropylènediamine-N,N'-acide disuccinique (HPDDS), un glycinamide-N,N'-acide disuccinique (GADS), un acide éthylène-diamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphényle) acétique (EDDHA), leurs précurseurs, leurs sels, et leurs combinaisons.
  4. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite étape (c) comprend l'énergisation dudit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons à une fréquence d'environ 15 KHz à environ 500 KHz.
  5. Procédé selon la revendication 4, dans lequel ladite étape (c) comprend l'énergisation dudit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons à une fréquence d'environ 20 KHz à environ 150 KHz.
  6. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ledit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons comprend un dispositif de peigne couplé à un générateur d'ultrasons dans lequel ledit dispositif de peigne est réactif à ladite fréquence topiquement efficace.
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, dans lequel ledit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons comprend :
    un réservoir de premier matériau pour fournir un premier matériau ; et,
    un réservoir de deuxième matériau pour fournir un deuxième matériau ; et,
    dans lequel ledit réservoir de premier matériau et ledit réservoir de deuxième matériau sont en communication liquide avec ledit dispositif de peigne.
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 7, dans lequel au moins une partie d'au moins un desdits premier ou deuxième réservoirs est contenue de façon libérable au sein dudit dispositif de traitement à ultrasons.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite étape (a) comprend en outre la fourniture dudit agent chélatant à une concentration allant d'au moins environ 0,5 pour cent en poids à au moins environ 10 pour cent en poids.
  10. Procédé selon la revendication 9, dans lequel ledit agent chélatant est fourni à une concentration allant d'au moins environ 2 pour cent en poids à au moins environ 5 pour cent en poids.
  11. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ledit traitement oxydant est choisi dans le groupe constitué de blanchiment capillaire, d'éclaircissement capillaire, de teinture capillaire, de permanente capillaire, de lissage capillaire, et leurs combinaisons.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 1, comprenant en outre l'étape consistant à :
    (e) rincer une partie dudit agent chélatant à partir de ladite au moins une fibre.
  13. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite au moins une fibre kératinique a un nombre relatif de dommages oxydants inférieur à environ 150 motifs d'acide cystéique après cinq cycles de traitement.
  14. Trousse pour fournir le traitement oxydant de fibres kératiniques, ladite trousse comprenant :
    (a) au moins un agent chélatant ; et,
    (b) au moins un agent actif ;
    dans laquelle ledit au moins un agent chélatant et ledit au moins un agent actif sont combinés dans un récipient, et
    (c) un dispositif de traitement des fibres à ultrasons où ledit dispositif est adapté pour produire une fréquence topiquement efficace pour utilisation avec ledit au moins un agent chélatant et/ou ledit au moins un agent actif.
  15. Trousse selon la revendication 14, dans laquelle ledit au moins un agent chélatant et/ou ledit au moins un agent actif est fourni dans au moins un réservoir, ledit au moins un réservoir étant contenu au sein dudit dispositif de traitement des fibres à ultrasons.
  16. Trousse selon la revendication 14, dans laquelle au moins un desdits au moins un agent chélatant et/ou au moins un agent actif est fourni dans au moins un réservoir, ledit au moins un réservoir étant au moins partiellement inséré dans ledit dispositif de traitement des fibres à ultrasons.
  17. Trousse selon la revendication 14, dans laquelle un utilisateur peut dispenser de manière sélective ledit au moins un agent chélatant et/ou au moins un agent actif à partir dudit dispositif de traitement des fibres.
  18. Trousse selon la revendication 14, dans laquelle le rapport dudit au moins un agent actif audit au moins un agent chélatant est d'environ 20:1 et environ 1:20 poids/poids.
EP02798488A 2001-12-07 2002-12-05 Methode de traitement ultrasonore de cheveux et d'autres fibres keratiniques Revoked EP1463485B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US10456 2001-12-07
US10/010,456 US6732744B2 (en) 2001-12-07 2001-12-07 Method for the ultrasonic treatment of hair and other keratinous fibers
PCT/US2002/038871 WO2003049712A2 (fr) 2001-12-07 2002-12-05 Methode de traitement ultrasonore de cheveux et d'autres fibres keratiniques

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1463485A2 EP1463485A2 (fr) 2004-10-06
EP1463485B1 true EP1463485B1 (fr) 2006-11-02

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EP02798488A Revoked EP1463485B1 (fr) 2001-12-07 2002-12-05 Methode de traitement ultrasonore de cheveux et d'autres fibres keratiniques

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US (1) US6732744B2 (fr)
EP (1) EP1463485B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2005511716A (fr)
CN (1) CN1638722A (fr)
AT (1) ATE344010T1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2002363970B2 (fr)
CA (1) CA2468304A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE60215859T2 (fr)
HK (1) HK1080368A1 (fr)
MX (1) MXPA04005223A (fr)
WO (1) WO2003049712A2 (fr)

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Publication number Publication date
US6732744B2 (en) 2004-05-11
DE60215859D1 (de) 2006-12-14
WO2003049712A2 (fr) 2003-06-19
CN1638722A (zh) 2005-07-13
AU2002363970B2 (en) 2007-01-25
HK1080368A1 (zh) 2006-04-28
US20030106564A1 (en) 2003-06-12
AU2002363970A1 (en) 2003-06-23
ATE344010T1 (de) 2006-11-15
EP1463485A2 (fr) 2004-10-06
CA2468304A1 (fr) 2003-06-19
JP2005511716A (ja) 2005-04-28
DE60215859T2 (de) 2007-09-06
WO2003049712A3 (fr) 2003-10-16
MXPA04005223A (es) 2004-08-19

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