EP1200044A1 - Composition de traitement capillaire contenant de l'ether de cellulose rendu hydrophobe - Google Patents

Composition de traitement capillaire contenant de l'ether de cellulose rendu hydrophobe

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Publication number
EP1200044A1
EP1200044A1 EP00950869A EP00950869A EP1200044A1 EP 1200044 A1 EP1200044 A1 EP 1200044A1 EP 00950869 A EP00950869 A EP 00950869A EP 00950869 A EP00950869 A EP 00950869A EP 1200044 A1 EP1200044 A1 EP 1200044A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cellulose
group
hair
cationic
hair conditioning
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00950869A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Ananthanarayan Venkateswaran
Jian-Zhong Yang
Dorothy Juanico Salvador
Tota Tsukikawa
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Co
Original Assignee
Procter and Gamble Co
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Co filed Critical Procter and Gamble Co
Publication of EP1200044A1 publication Critical patent/EP1200044A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair conditioning composition comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether.
  • shampooing can leave the hair in a wet, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. Once the hair dries, it is often left in a dry, rough, lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. The hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon drying, which can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly referred to as "fly-away hair", or contribute to an undesirable phenomena of "split ends", particularly for long hair.
  • Conditioning formulations can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray, and mousse.
  • Such consumers who prefer the conventional conditioner formulations value the relatively higher conditioning effect, or convenience of changing the amount of conditioning depending on the condition of hair or amount of hair.
  • hair volume-up is not equal to fly-away hair. Fly-away hair is due to the increased level of static, and represents volume increase of only very minor amount of the hair as a whole, and is not desirable.
  • hair volume-up as used herein relates to increase of the bulk of the hair volume. Consumers having fine hair have the desire to achieve hair volume-up while controlling undesirable fly-away of the hair.
  • hair conditioner products targeted for such consumers provided the volume-up or less volume- down benefit by decreasing the level of conditioning actives included in the composition. This is thought to be emerging from the concept that conditioning actives weigh down the hair. Consequently, hair conditioner products targeted for consumers which desire volume-up generally had only compromised conditioning benefits.
  • United States Patents 5,100,658, 5,106,609, and 5,855,878 disclose the use of hydrophobically modified nonionic water-soluble polymers in hair conditioning compositions. It is disclosed in each reference that such composition provides effective delivery of an active cosmetic component to the hair or skin.
  • European Patent Application EP-0,875,557-A discloses aqueous compositions of surfactant mixtures with hydrophobically-modified polymers; in particular, hydrophobically-modified polymeric rheology modifiers (thickeners) to provide enhanced thickening efficiency.
  • European Patent Application EP- 0,786,249-A discloses a topical composition containing active cosmetic and/or dermatological agent including cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose as gelling agent.
  • Hair conditioning compositions containing hydrophobically modified cellulose polymers can become very viscous and provide negative performance to the feel of hair or manufacturing of the composition.
  • hair conditioning compositions while maintaining acceptable rheology profiles to provide satisfactory spreadability on the hair, and so as to be made by a convenient manufacturing method.
  • the present invention is directed to a hair conditioning composition
  • a hair conditioning composition comprising by weight: (a) from about 0.001 % to about 2% of a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether comprising a hydrophilic cellulose backbone and a hydrophobic substitution group; the hydrophilic cellulose backbone being water soluble and selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof; and having grafted thereto the hydrophobic substitution group to render the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether to have less than 1 % water solubility, the hydrophobic substitution group selected from a straight or branched chain alkyl group of from about 10 to about 22 carbons; wherein the ratio of the hydrophilic groups in the hydrophilic cellulose backbone to the hydrophobic substitution group being from about 2:1 to about 1000:1
  • composition of the present invention comp ⁇ ses by weight from about 0.001 % to about 2%, preferably from about 0.01 % to about 0.5%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5%, of a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether.
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers useful herein have been known in the art as hydrophilic thickeners to aqueous compositions. It has been surprisingly found that, when included in a gel matrix vehicle system at certain levels, the hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers provide increase in bulk hair volume. It has further been surprisingly found that cellulose ethers with no hydrophobic modifications, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, do not provide such increase in bulk hair volume. Without being bound by theory, it is believed this is due to the significant substantivity and controlled water solubility of the hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers herein. The hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers would deposit on the hair as discrete particles, thus enhance the inter fiber interactions and change its spatial orientation, and consequently provide more volume to the hair.
  • the controlled level of hydrophobically modified cellulose ether also provides acceptable rheology profiles in the conditioning composition of this invention, so this composition provides satisfactory spreadability on the hair, and can be made by a convenient manufacturing method.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers useful herein comprise a hydrophilic cellulose backbone and a hydrophobic substitution group.
  • the hydrophilic cellulose backbone has a sufficient degree of nonionic substitution to cellulose to be water soluble.
  • Such hydrophilic cellulose backbone is selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of nonionic substitution is not critical, so long as there is an amount sufficient to assure that the hydrophilic cellulose backbone is water soluble.
  • the hydrophilic cellulose backbone has a molecular weight of about less than 800,000, preferably from about 20,000 to about 700,000, or from about 75 D. P. to about 2500 D. P. Further, where a high viscosity building effect is not desirable, a lower molecular weight cellulose backbone is preferred.
  • One of the preferred hydrophilic cellulose backbone is hydroxyethyl cellulose having a molecular weight of from about 50,000 to about 700,000. Hydroxyethyl cellulose of this molecular weight is known to be one of the most hydrophilic of the materials contemplated. Thus, hydroxyethyl cellulose can be modified to a greater extent than other hydrophilic cellulose backbones.
  • the hydrophilic cellulose backbone is further substituted with a hydrophobic substitution group via an ether linkage to render the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether to have less than 1 % water solubility, preferably less than 0.2% water solubility.
  • the hydrophobic substitution group is selected from a straight or branched chain alkyl group of from about 10 to about 22 carbons; wherein the ratio of the hydrophilic groups in the hydrophilic cellulose backbone to the hydrophobic substitution group being from about 2:1 to about 1000:1 , preferably from about 10:1 to about 100:1.
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers useful herein include: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose having tradenames NATROSOL PLUS 330CS and POLYSURF 67, both available from Aqualon Company, Del, USA, having cetyl group substitution of about 0.4% to about 0.65% by weight of the entire polymer.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a high melting point fatty compound.
  • the high melting point fatty compound useful herein have a melting point of 25°C or higher, and is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature.
  • certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than 25°C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section.
  • Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
  • These high melting point fatty compounds together with the cationic conditioning agent, provide a gel network suitable for providing various conditioning benefits such as slippery and slick feel on wet hair, and softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control on dry hair.
  • the high melting point fatty compound is included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 7%.
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight or branched chain acids. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e.
  • High melting point fatty compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred.
  • Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred.
  • pure herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%.
  • high melting point fatty compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1- DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy).
  • composition of the present invention comprises a cationic conditioning agent.
  • This cationic conditioning agent together with the high melting point fatty compounds, provide a gel network suitable for providing various conditioning benefits such as slippery and slick feel on wet hair, and such as softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control on dry hair.
  • the cationic conditioning agent is included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%.
  • the cationic conditioning agent herein is selected from cationic surfactants having saturated alkyl groups.
  • Cationic surfactants having unsaturated alkyl groups provide a suitable gel network and provides good hair feel.
  • cationic surfactants useful herein include those corresponding to the general formula (I):
  • R1 , R2, R3, and R ⁇ is selected from an aliphatic group of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms
  • the remainder of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms
  • X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, are saturated. Preferred is when R 1 , R2, R ⁇ , and R 4 are independently selected from C-
  • Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quatemium-8, quaternium-14, quatemium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quatemium-24, and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic surfactants of general formula (I) preferred are those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons.
  • Nonlimiting examples of such preferred cationic surfactants include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals, hydrogenated tallow alkyl trimethyl ammonium chlo ⁇ de, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(behenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, stearyl propyleneglycol phosphate dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearoy
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the Rl - R4 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C-
  • the hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning sur actant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges.
  • Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formula (II) through (VIII) below:
  • n is from 8 to about 28, x+y is from 2 to about 40, ⁇ 1 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C-
  • Ci - C30 alkyl the remainder are CH2CH2OH, one or two of R 8 , R 9 , and R 1 0 are independently an C-j - C30 alkyl, and remainder are CH2CH2OH, and X is a salt forming anion as mentioned above;
  • z2 is an alkyl, preferably a C-
  • R13 J S a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C-
  • R ⁇ 4 and R ⁇ ) independently, are C-
  • Z6 is a C12 - C22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido
  • A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quatemium-33, quatemium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61 , quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71 , quaternium-75, quatemium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium-78, quaternium-80, quaternium- 83, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commerically available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARIQUAT K1215 and 638 from Witco Chemical, MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel, and ATLAS G265 from ICI Americas.
  • Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants.
  • the alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted.
  • Particularly useful are amidoamines of the following general formula:
  • Preferred amidoamine useful in the present invention includes stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; more preferably stearamidopropy
  • amidoamines herein are preferably partially quaternized with the acids selected from the group consisting of L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, tartaric acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the mole ratio of amidoamine to acid is from about 1 :0.3 to about 1 :1 , more preferably from about 1 :0.5 to about 1 :0.9.
  • AQUEOUS CARRIER The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous carrier.
  • the level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
  • the carrier useful in the present invention include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols.
  • the lower alkyl alcohol useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
  • the aqueous carrier is substantially water.
  • Deionized water is preferably used.
  • Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
  • the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 20% to about 95%, preferably from about 30% to about 92%, and more preferably from about 50% to about 90% water.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose, a copolymer of hydrophilic-cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • a cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of hydrophobically modified cationic cellulose, a copolymer of hydrophilic-cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic polymers herein provide increase in bulk hair volume while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as fly-away control.
  • the cationic polymers herein are typically included in the hair styling compositions as an antistatic agent, a film former, or a hair fixative. It has been surprisingly found that, when the cationic polymers are included in hair conditioning compositions in combination with the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether, increase in bulk hair volume is improved, and increased draggy and clean feel to the hair is provided.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may comprise by weight from about 0.001 % to about 5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.0%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1.0% of a cationic polymer.
  • the hydrophobically modified cationic celluloses useful in the present invention are those having the following formula:
  • R1 is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbons, preferably from about 10 to about 18 carbons; n is an integer from 1 to about 10,000, preferably from about 100 to about 4,000; x is 0 or an integer from 1 to about 6, preferably from about 1 to about 3; and y is the level of cationic substitution from
  • hydrophobically modified cationic celluloses include, for example, the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24, available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradenames Polymer LM-200® and BioCare Polymer HA-24.
  • CTFA lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide
  • copolymers of hydrophilic-cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride useful herein are those having hydrophilic-cellulose units and diallyldimethyl ammonium chlo ⁇ de units, the hydrophilic cellulose units selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • the ratio of the number of the hydrophilic- cellulose units to the diallyldimethyl ammonium chlo ⁇ de units comprised in the copolymer is from about 1 : 100 to about 10:1 , preferably from about 1 : 10 to about 10:1 , more preferably from about 1 :3 to about 5:1 , still preferably from about 1 :1 to about 3:1 , and wherein the molecular weight of the copolymer is from about 10,000 to about 250,000, preferably from about 15,000 to about 200,000.
  • the hydrophilic-cellulose units are contained at a range of from about 40 to about 350, and the diallyldimethyl ammonium chlo ⁇ de units are contained at a range of from about 40 to about 120.
  • Highly suitable copolymers are hydroxyethylcellulose diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride copolymers known in the industry as Polyquatemium-4 (CTFA Dictionary).
  • CTFA Dictionary Commercially available hydroxyethylcellulose diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride copolymers are those with tradenames CELQUAT L-200 and CELQUAT H-100 available from National Starch Corp.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a polypropylene glycol.
  • the polypropylene glycol useful herein is selected from single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, multi- polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, and mixtures thereof, having a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, preferably from about 1 ,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol.
  • polypropylene glycol may deliver flyaway hair control benefits without affecting the bulk hair volume.
  • a highly preferred single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the following formula: HO-(C 3 H 6 0) a H wherein a is a value from about 4 to about 400, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and more preferably from about 20 to about 40.
  • the single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer useful herein is typically inexpensive, and is readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan), Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), Arco Chemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA), Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA).
  • a highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the following formula: (pormu
  • n is a value from about 0 to about 10, preferably from about 0 to about 7, and more preferably from about 1 to about 4.
  • each R is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C C 30 alkyl, and preferably each R is independently selected from the group consisting of H, and C C 4 alkyl.
  • c and d are independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1.
  • the total of b + c + d is at least about 2, preferably the total of b + c + d is from about 2 to about 3.
  • Each e is independently a value of 0 or 1 , if n is from about 1 to about 4, then e is preferably equal to 1. Also in Formula II, x, y, and z are independently a value of from about 1 to about 120, preferably from about 7 to about 100, and more preferably from about 7 to about 100, where x + y + z is greater than about 20.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a rheology modifier.
  • the rheology modifier may be any polymer which increases the rheology of the composition, and which are compatible with the other polymers included in the composition, and do not negatively affect the benefits provided by the composition.
  • Rheology modifiers particularly suitable in the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition provides better spreadability to the hair and increases deposition of components such as the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether and the cationic polymer to the hair.
  • Commercially available hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose are those available from Akzo Nobel with tradename Elfacos CD481.
  • LOW MELTING POINT OIL are those available from Akzo Nobel with tradename Elfacos CD481.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise a low melting point oil, which has a melting point of less than 25°C, and is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • Low melting point oils useful herein include unsaturated fatty alcohols having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, unsaturated fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol derivatives, ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols are unsaturated and can be straight or branched chain alcohols.
  • Suitable fatty alcohols include, for example, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, tridecylalcohol, decyl tetradecyl alcohol, and octyl dodecyl alcohol. These alcohols are available, for example, from Shinnihon Rika.
  • Low melting point oils useful herein include pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, poly ⁇ -olefin oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and the ester oil useful herein is water-insoluble.
  • water-insoluble means the compound is substantially not soluble in water at 25°C; when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably at above 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.
  • Pentaerythritol ester oils useful herein are those having the following formula: wherein R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R ⁇ R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
  • Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those having the following formula: wherein R 11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons, and R 12 ,
  • R 13 , and R 14 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 1 is ethyl and R 12 , R 13 , and R 4 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons.
  • R 11 , R 2 , R 3 and R 14 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
  • pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol with tradenames KAKPTI, KAKTTI, and Shin-nihon Rika with tradenames PTO, ENUJERUBU TP3SO.
  • Poly ⁇ -olefin oils useful herein are those derived from 1-alkene monomers having from about 6 to about 16 carbons, preferably from about 6 to about 12 carbons atoms.
  • 1-alkene monomers useful for preparing the poly ⁇ -olefin oils include 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1- dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, branched isomers such as 4-methyl-1- pentene, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred 1-alkene monomers useful for preparing the poly ⁇ -olefin oils are 1-octene, 1-decene, 1 -dodecene, 1- tetradecene, 1-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof.
  • Poly ⁇ -olefin oils useful herein further have a viscosity of from about 1 to about 35,000 cst, a molecular weight of from about 200 to about 60,000, and a polydispersity of no more than about 3.
  • Poly ⁇ -olefin oils having a molecular weight of at least about 800 are useful herein. Such high molecular weight poly ⁇ -olefin oils are believed to provide long lasting moisturized feel to the hair. Poly ⁇ -olefin oils having a molecular weight of less than about 800 are useful herein. Such low molecular weight poly ⁇ -olefin oils are believed to provide a smooth, light, clean feel to the hair.
  • Particularly useful poly ⁇ -olefin oils herein include polydecenes with tradenames PURESYN 6 having a number average molecular weight of about 500 and PURESYN 100 having a number average molecular weight of about 3000 and PURESYN 300 having a number average molecular weight of about 6000 available from Mobil Chemical Co.
  • Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 having the following formula: wherein R 21 is OH or CH 3 COO, and R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 21 is OH
  • R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 21 , R 22 , R 23 and R 24 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
  • citrate ester oils herein include triisocetyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 316 available from Bernel, triisostearyl citrate with tradename PELEMOL TISC available from Phoenix, and trioctyldodecyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 320 available from Bernel.
  • Glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 and having the following formula: wherein R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about
  • R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 41 , R 42 , and R 43 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
  • Particularly useful glyceryl ester oils herein include triisostearin with tradename SUN ESPOL G-318 available from Taiyo Kagaku, triolein with tradename CITHROL GTO available from Croda Surfactants Ltd., trilinolein with tradename EFADERMA-F available from Vevy, or tradename EFA- GLYCERIDES from Brooks.
  • SUN ESPOL G-318 available from Taiyo Kagaku
  • CITHROL GTO available from Croda Surfactants Ltd.
  • trilinolein with tradename EFADERMA-F available from Vevy
  • EFA- GLYCERIDES tradename EFA- GLYCERIDES from Brooks.
  • composition of present invention may further comprise a polyethylene glycol having the formula: H(OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -OH wherein n has an average value of from about 2,000 to about 14,000, preferably from about 5,000 to about 9,000, more preferably from about 6,000 to about 8,000.
  • the polyethylene glycol is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • the polyethylene glycol described above is also known as a polyethylene oxide, or polyoxyethylene.
  • Polyethylene glycols useful herein that are especially preferred are PEG-2M wherein n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10 from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M wherein n has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and as Polyox WSR® N-80, both from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein n has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein n has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG-9M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 from Union Carbide); and PEG-14M wherein n has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also
  • the present composition may further contain a silicone compound.
  • the amount of silicone compound to the entire composition is preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight.
  • the silicone compounds hereof can include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents.
  • soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase.
  • insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone.
  • the silicone compounds herein may be made by conventional polymerization, or emulsion polymerization.
  • the silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25°C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000, and even more preferably from about 25,000 to about 1 ,500,000.
  • the viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.
  • Silicone compound of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization.
  • Silicone compounds useful herein include polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkyleneoxide-modified siloxanes, silicone resins, amino-substituted siloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone compound is preferably selected from the group consisting of polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkyleneoxide- modified siloxanes, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from one or more polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes.
  • Polyalkyl polyaryl siloxanes useful here in include those with the following structure (I)
  • R is alkyl or aryl
  • x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
  • A represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains.
  • the alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R) or at the ends of the siloxane chains (A) can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair.
  • Suitable A groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy.
  • the two R groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups.
  • the two R groups represent the same group.
  • Suitable R groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl.
  • the preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
  • the polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their ViscasilR and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. Polymethylphenylsiloxanes, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, are useful herein.
  • highly arylated silicone compounds such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher.
  • a spreading agent such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material.
  • silicone gum means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1 ,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al., issued May 1 , 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968.
  • silicone gums will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1 ,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • Polyalkyleneoxide-modified siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polypropylene oxide modified and polyethylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane.
  • the ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols.
  • Silicone resins which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems, are useful herein.
  • the crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-fu notional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin.
  • the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin.
  • silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins.
  • the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material.
  • Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein.
  • the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0.
  • Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized.
  • Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267.
  • silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid.
  • the silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
  • silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as TospearlTM from Toshiba Silicones.
  • Silicone resins can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone.
  • M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH3)3SiO) 5
  • D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO
  • T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH3)SiO- ⁇ .5
  • Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit Si ⁇ 2- Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T ⁇ and Q' denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence.
  • Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc.
  • the molar ratios of the various units either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system.
  • Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T' and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking.
  • the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
  • silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ,
  • the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
  • MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
  • Amino-substituted siloxanes useful herein include those represented by the following structure (II)
  • R is CH3 or OH
  • x and y are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between
  • Suitable amino-substituted siloxane fluids include those represented by the formula (III)
  • G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C ⁇
  • R2 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and A " denotes a halide ion.
  • An especially preferred amino-substituted siloxane corresponding to formula (III) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", of formula (IV):
  • n and m are selected depending on the molecular weight of the compound desired.
  • R3 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl
  • R4 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C-
  • Q " is a halide ion, preferably chloride
  • r denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8
  • s denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50.
  • the silicone compound is contained in the hair conditioning composition in the form of a cationic silicone emulsion.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion herein is a pre- dispersed stable emulsion comprising at least a cationic surfactant, a silicone compound, and water.
  • the cationic surfactant useful herein is any known to the artisan, such as those selected from the species disclosed above under the title "Cationic Conditioning Agent”.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion herein is also believed to minimize hair volume reduction, while not deteriorating conditioning benefits such as fly-away control. It is of particular significance that, in this preferred embodiment, the cationic surfactant is present in the silicone emulsion, and not just in the bulk of the composition.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion herein also provides acceptable rheology profiles in conditioning compositions.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion typically contains, by weight of the cationic silicone emulsion, from about 1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 8%, of a cationic surfactant; and an emulsifiable amount of silicone compound.
  • the silicone compound is preferably contained from about 0.1 % to about 70%, more preferably from about 5% to about 60% by weight of the cationic silicone emulsion.
  • the amount of silicone compound to the entire composition is preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion is included in the composition at a level by weight from about 0.1 % to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion can be made by any convenient method known in the art.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion may be made by mechanical emulsification by taking a polysiloxane polymer and emulsifying it in water in the presence of at least one emulsifying agent using mechanical means such as agitation, shaking and homogenization.
  • the emulsifying agent can be the cationic surfactant comprised in the cationic silicone emulsion, or other suitable surfactant.
  • Mechanical emulsification may require use of two or more surfactants, and two or more mixing processes using different surfactants. Two or more types of silicone compounds, such as a highly viscous silicone compound and a low viscosity silicone compound, may be used.
  • One particularly preferred process for obtaining the cationic silicone emulsion of the present invention via mechanical emulsification is through the process disclosed in EP Publication 460,683A, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • the emulsion is prepared by combining the polysiloxane, water, and a primary nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 15-19 to form a first mixture, adding to the first mixture a co-surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic, cationic and anionic surfactants having an HLB value of 1.8-15 to form a second mixture and mixing the second mixture at a temperature of about 40°C, until the particle size of the polysiloxane in the emulsion is less than about three hundred nanometers.
  • the cationic silicone emulsion herein may be made by emulsion polymerization.
  • An emulsion polymerization process includes taking a polysiloxane monomer and/or oligomer and emulsifying it in water in the presence of a catalyst to form the polysiloxane polymer. It is understood that unreacted monomers and oligomers may remain in an emulsion polymerized silicone emulsion.
  • One particularly preferred process for obtaining the cationic silicone emulsion of the present invention via emulsion polymerization is through the process disclosed in GB application 2,303,857, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • This reference discloses a process for making stable cationic silicone oil-in-water emulsion comprising: 1 ) blending a mixture of silicones selected from the group consisting of cyclic silicone oligomers, mixed silicone hydrolyzates, silanol stopped oligomers, high molecular weight silicone polymers, and functionalized silicones with 2) water, and 3) an anionic surfactant; 4) heating the blend to a temperature ranging from about 75 to about 98°C for a period of time ranging from about 1 hours to about 5 hours; 5) cooling the heated blend to a temperature ranging from 0 to about 25°C for a period of time ranging from about 3 hours to about 24 hours; 6) adding a compatibilizing surfactant selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactant having an HLB ratio greater than 9; and 7) adding a cationic surfactant.
  • the silicone compound in the cationic silicone emulsion has a particle size of less than about 50 microns, preferably from about 0.2 to about 2.5 microns, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.5 microns.
  • the particle size of the silicone compound is believed to affect the deposition of the silicone compound on the hair.
  • the particle size of the silicone compound is determined based on the desired deposition and uniformity of distribution of the silicone compound.
  • composition can provide increase in bulk hair volume, softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control. It can also provide satisfactory spreadability on the hair, and can be made by a convenient manufacturing method.
  • composition comp ⁇ ses in another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comp ⁇ ses:
  • This composition may further contain a low melting point oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, poly ⁇ - olefin oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof, which is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • a low melting point oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, poly ⁇ - olefin oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof, which is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 6%.
  • composition can provide provide the same benefits as those of the first embodiment, and further can provide the benefits such as slippery and slick feel on wet hair.
  • composition comprises: A hair conditioning composition comprising:
  • composition of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits.
  • additional components generally are used individually at levels of from about 0.001 % to about 10%, preferably up to about 5% by weight of the composition.
  • a wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, a mixture of Polysorbate 60 and Cetearyl Alcohol with tradename Polawax NF available from Croda Chemicals, glycerylmonostearate available from Stepan Chemicals, hydroxyethyl cellulose available from Aqualon, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may be made by any method of preparation known in the art.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether is dispersed in water at room temperature to make a polymer solution, and is either heated up to above 70°C, or added to a water base preheated to above 70°C.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether which is typically obtained in the form of a powder, is directly added to the preheated water base.
  • the cationic conditioning agent and the high melting point fatty compound are also added in the heated solution to form a gel matrix together with the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether.
  • the mixture thus obtained is cooled down to below 60°C, and the remaining components are added with agitation, and further cooled down to about 30°C.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention is prepared by the following steps; (a) mixing the high melting point fatty compound, the cationic conditioning agent, and the aqueous carrier at a temperature of at least about 70°C;
  • step (b) cooling the mixture obtained in step (a) to below about 60°C;
  • step (c) adding the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether to the cooled mixture obtained in step (b); and (d) mixing until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
  • step (a) the gel matrix is formed.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether is added to this gel matrix, preferably after the gel matrix is cooled to a temperature of below about 60°C, still preferably about 40°C to 60°C in step (b).
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether can be added in the form of a powder, as typically obtained, or in the form of a partially or completely dissolved water solution in step (c).
  • the obtained mixture is thoroughly mixed, as necessary using a triblender and/or mill, until homogeneous in step (d).
  • step (a) or (c) When cationic polymers, polypropylene glycols or rheology modifers are included in the composition, such components are added in either step (a) or (c). Any remaining components of the compositions are added in step (d). Heat sensitive components may be added after the mixture is cooled to room temperature.
  • the hydrophobically modified cellulose ether is mixed in the composition in a fully solubilized manner, thereby providing a stable composition in terms of rheology.
  • this stable composition may further provide an improved increase to bulk hair volume of the hair when applied to the hair.
  • compositions of the present invention are suitable for rinse-off products and leave-on products, and are particularly useful for making products in the form of emulsion, cream, gel, spray or, mousse.
  • Examples 1 through 20 are hair conditioning compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for rinse-off use.
  • compositions of Examples 11 through 15 Compositions of Examples 16 through 20
  • Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose-1 Polysurf 67 available from Aqualon.
  • Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose-2 NATROSOL PLUS 330CS available from
  • ⁇ -Glutamic Acid (cosmetic grade) available from Ajinomoto.
  • Cationic Silicone Emulsion-1 PE2006 available from Dow Corning; mechanically emulsified emulsion containing 60% silicone compound and 3.0% cationic surfactant, wherein the silicone compound has a particle size of about 280 nm, and is made by using polydimethylsiloxane having about 900 repeating units and polydimethylsiloxane having about 100 repeating units, in a ratio of 27:73.
  • Cationic Silicone Emulsion-2 PE2016 available from Dow Corning; is mechanically emulsified emulsion containing 55% silicone compound and 3.0% cationic surfactant, wherein the silicone compound has a particle size of about 280 nm, and is made by using polydimethylsiloxane having about 900 repeating units and polydimethylsiloxane having about 100 repeating units, in a ratio of 27:73.
  • Vitamin E Emix-d available from Eisai. *14 Panthenol: available from Roche.
  • Citric Acid Anhydrous Citric acid available from Haarman & Reimer.
  • compositions of Examples 1 through 20 as shown above can be prepared by any conventional method as follows: Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose and, if present, polyethylene glycol are dispersed in water at room temperature to make a polymer solution, and heated up to above 70°C. Amidoamine and acid, or other cationic conditioning agents, and if present, ester oils are added in the solution with agitation. Then, the high melting point fatty compound, and if present, other low melting point oils and benzyl alcohol are also added in the solution with agitation. The mixture thus obtained is cooled down to below 60°C, and the remaining components such as silicone blend or cationic silicone emulsion are added with agitation, and further cooled down to about 30°C. A triblender and/or mill can be used in each step, if necessary to disperse the materials.
  • Examples 1 through 20 as shown above are prepared as follows: Amidoamine and acid, or other cationic conditioning agents, and if present, ester oils are added in the solution with agitation, and added to water base which was preheated to above 70°C. Then, the high melting point fatty compound, and if present, other low melting point oils and benzyl alcohol are also added in the solution with agitation.
  • the Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-4, Polypropylene glycol and hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, if present, can be included at this point, or after the mixture is cooled.
  • the mixture thus obtained is cooled down to between 40°C to 60°C, and the cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose and remaining components such as silicone blend or cationic silicone emulsion are added with agitation.
  • the Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-4, Polypropylene glycol and hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose can optionally be added at this stage.
  • the finally obtained mixture is further cooled down to about 30°C.
  • a triblender and/or mill can be used in each step, if necessary to disperse the materials.
  • the embodiments disclosed and represented by the previous examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide increase in bulk hair volume, softness, moisturized feel, and fly-away control. They can also provide satisfactory spreadability on the hair, and can be made by a convenient manufacturing method.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition de traitement capillaire contenant en poids: (a) d'environ 0,001 % à environ 2 % d'un éther de cellulose rendu hydrophobe, qui comporte un squelette de cellulose hydrophile et un groupe de substitution hydrophobe; le squelette de cellulose hydrophile est soluble dans l'eau et est sélectionné dans le groupe constitué par la méthylcellulose, l'hydroxyméthylcellulose, l'hydroxyéthylcellulose, l'hydroxyéthyléthylcellulose, l'hydroxypropylcellulose, l'hydroxypropylméthylcellulose, l'hydroxybutylcellulose et des mélanges de celles-ci ; et contient le groupe de substitution hydrophobe greffé de manière à former un éther de cellulose rendu hydrophobe présentant moins de 1 % de solubilité dans l'eau ; le groupe de substitution hydrophobe est sélectionné dans le groupe constitué par des groupes alkyle à chaîne droite ou ramifiée possédant entre environ 10 et environ 22 atomes de carbone; le rapport entre les groupes hydrophiles du squelette de cellulose hydrophile et le groupe de substitution hydrophobe se situe entre environ 2:1 et environ 1000:1; (b) d'environ 0,1 % à environ 15 % d'un composé gras à point de fusion élevé, présentant un point de fusion égal ou supérieur à 25 °C; (c) d'environ 0,1 % à environ 10 % d'un agent de traitement cationique possédant des groupes alkyle saturés; et (d) un excipient aqueux.
EP00950869A 1999-07-29 2000-07-28 Composition de traitement capillaire contenant de l'ether de cellulose rendu hydrophobe Withdrawn EP1200044A1 (fr)

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HK1046634A1 (zh) 2003-01-24
WO2001008644A1 (fr) 2001-02-08
AU6390400A (en) 2001-02-19
JP2003531102A (ja) 2003-10-21
CA2379651A1 (fr) 2001-02-08
CN1372455A (zh) 2002-10-02

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