WO2020220277A1 - Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020220277A1
WO2020220277A1 PCT/CN2019/085225 CN2019085225W WO2020220277A1 WO 2020220277 A1 WO2020220277 A1 WO 2020220277A1 CN 2019085225 W CN2019085225 W CN 2019085225W WO 2020220277 A1 WO2020220277 A1 WO 2020220277A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
weight
acrylates
copolymer
oil
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PCT/CN2019/085225
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English (en)
Inventor
Di Wu
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to KR1020217033776A priority Critical patent/KR20220002298A/ko
Priority to JP2021562145A priority patent/JP2022531108A/ja
Priority to CN201980095952.7A priority patent/CN114007573A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2019/085225 priority patent/WO2020220277A1/fr
Publication of WO2020220277A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020220277A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body form physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .
  • the skin of the human body comprises the dermis and the epidermis.
  • the epidermis is the top layer of the skin, and its superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.
  • formulations dedicated to caring for and/or making up the skin and/or lips are permanent. Said formulations have to show satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as easy usage, and also in terms of sensory, such hydration and/or moisturizing feeling after application.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • Oil-in-water emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, afresher, less greasy and lighter feel than water-in-oil emulsions.
  • cream is an essential step for skincare such as antiaging, whitening and hydration.
  • active ingredients such as antiaging agents, hydration agents, and/or skin whitening ingredients, for example, Baicalin, symwhite, etc., into the oil-in-water emulsions.
  • yogurt-like texture of some cosmetic products is mainly provided by acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate Copolymer.
  • the pH value of the cosmetic product requires the pH value of the cosmetic product to be more than 6.0 for acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate Copolymer providing yogurt-like texture, which is not suitable for many actives showing its efficacy at lower pH, like Baicalin, which is active at pH of about 5.5, and symwhite, which is active at a pH of below 5.0.
  • pH is adjusted to a lower pH value (pH ⁇ 6.0)
  • the yogurt texture can’t be obtained by acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention can present a yogurt-like texture, even at a pH of less than 6.0.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention shows a yogurt-like texture, which has good cosmetic properties, in particular moisturizing and/or softening of a keratin material without greasy feelings.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity falling into the range of 40-70 UD (M3) , as measured at 25°C using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo.
  • Aviscosity in the range of 40-70 UD (M3) is desirable for a cream.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention also demonstrates a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention on the keratin material.
  • keratin material is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails.
  • Human skin, in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as further illustrated below.
  • the aqueous phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30%to 95%by weight, preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil phase, dispersed in the aqueous phase as described above.
  • the nature of the oil phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not critical.
  • the oil phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oils refers to any fatty material. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • the oil that is suitable forthe present invention are not limited, it may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based orfluorine-based.
  • silicon oil refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
  • fluorine oil refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the oil phase comprises at least oil being solid at room temperature (about 25°C) .
  • the oil is selected from hydrocarbonated oils and silicone oils.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold underthe trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C 8 -C 16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof. Isododecane or isohexadecane are preferred.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold bythe company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or plant origin;
  • -hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin based on triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, in particular the triglycerides of a fatty acid containing in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides and capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, or else hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil
  • R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropy
  • -C 8 -C 26 higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
  • -C 8 -C 26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
  • -silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at ambient temperature, and that are optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, optionally substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone cop
  • the oil is selected from linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at ambient temperature and synthetic esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atom.
  • PDMSs linear polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the oil phase is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferablyfrom 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %and more preferablyfrom 5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer.
  • Hydrophilic anionic associative polymers can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating together or with other molecules.
  • Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain.
  • the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer of the present invention is preferably obtained bythe copolymerization between 1) and 2) :
  • A represents a ethylenically unsaturated acyclic residue, optionally containing an additional carboxylic group or its salt, wherein said additional carboxylic group may be esterified with a linear or branched (C 1 -C 20 ) alkyl group;
  • R a represents a linear or branched (C 1 -C 30 ) alkyl group, alkylaryl or arylalkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched, preferably R a represents (C 1 -C 20 ) alkyl group, alkylphenyl or phenylakyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms wherein the alkyl group is linear or branched;
  • Alk represents a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylene group, particularly Alk represents –CH 2 -CH (R b ) –wherein R b represents a hydrogen atom, or a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl group;
  • z is an integer comprised inclusively between 0 and 50;
  • w is an integer comprised inclusively between 0 and 30;
  • (I) contains at least one carboxyl group C (O) OH, or C (O) O-Q + wherein Q + represents a cation chosen from an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, or ammonium.
  • the copolymer is obtained by the polymerization between at least one ethylenically unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer of formula (a) and at least one associative monomer which is an ester of formula (I) as defined herein before or of formula (b) :
  • R’ a and R’ b identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group, preferably R’ a and R’ b represent hydrogen atom;
  • R’ c and R” c identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group, aC (O) OX group, or a–alk-C (O) OX group wherein X represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium and–alk-represents a (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylene group such as methylene group, preferably R’ c and/or R” c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or a (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl group
  • R 2 represents a linear or branched (C 6 -C 40 ) alkyl group, preferably a (C 10 -C 30 ) alkyl group;
  • n is an integer comprised inclusively between 5 and 100, particularly between 10 and 50, more particularly between 20 and 40, preferably between 20 and 30 such as 25;
  • R’ a , R’ b represent a hydrogen atom and R’ c , and R” c represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal.
  • R’ a , R’ b , and R’ c represent a hydrogen atom and R” c represents a group–alk-C (O) OX such as–CH 2 -C (O) OX wherein X is as defined herein before.
  • the hydrophilic anionic associative polymer contains units (A) and/or (B) :
  • R’ a , R’ b , R’ c , R” c are as defined herein before;
  • x represents an integer, preferably more than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;
  • y represents an integer, preferably more than 100, more preferably between 100 and 10000;
  • x+y represents an integer, preferably>200, more preferably between 200 and 20000.
  • the anionic associative polymer of the present invention has a molecular weight of more than 100000, preferably between 200000 and 8000000.
  • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or an alkaline earth metal.
  • copolymer (a) / (b) as defined herein before usable in the invention, we may mention: acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from 3V under the trade name W2000, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Acylun TM 28, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Aculyn TM 22 polymer, acrylates /steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from AkzoNobel under the trade name Structure 2001, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, such as the products commercially available from AkzoNobel under the trade name Structure 3001, acrylates/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer,
  • acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer such as the products commercially available from Rohm and Haas (Dow Chemical) under the trade name Acylun TM 28 is preferred.
  • the at least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.8%to 6%by weight, preferably from 1%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one one cellulose-based thickening polymer.
  • the cellulose-based thickening polymer useful in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is selected from hydroxy (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses) , carboxy (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylcelluloses, and mixture thereof.
  • the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydroxymethylcelluloses, methyl ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mixed (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxy (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylcelluloses.
  • the cellulose-based thickening polymer is selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the at least one cellulose-based thickening polymer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.2%to 6%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 3%by weight, more preferably from 0.25%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally comprise at least one emulsifying surfactants (or emulsifiers) , preferably selected from anionic and nonionic emulsifying surfactants.
  • anionic emulsifying surfactants mention can be made to stearic acid, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C 10 -C 30 and in particular C 12 -C 20 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters of polyols and saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated, such as glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acids of the sugar ethers of C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include in particular glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-and/or tri-glyceryl stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid there may be mentioned in particular the polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di-and/or tri-stearate, polyethylene glycol) , especially polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO (CTFA name PEG-40 stearate) , polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100) stearate and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA name PEG-40 stearate polyethylene glycol monostearate 40 EO
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol monostearate 50 EO
  • CTFA name: PEG-100 polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate
  • fatty alcohol ethers mentions can be made of, for example, ethers of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) .
  • ethers having from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  • sugar mono-or polyalkyl esters or ethers of methylglucose isostearate sold under the name by Degussa Goldschmidt, or sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta by the company Croda, and sucrose stearate, marketed under the name RYOTO sugar ester S by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods
  • sugar esters such as sucrose stearate
  • fatty alcohol ethers of sugars especially alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and lauryl marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren and Plantaren, cetostearylglucoside mixed with alcohol Cetostearyl, for example, under the name Montanov by Seppic under the name Tegocare by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade by Henkel, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of ar
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from stearic acid, polyethylene glycol stearate and glyceryl stearate.
  • the emulsifying surfactant is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %and more preferably from 2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one active ingredient for caring for and/or making up a keratin material commonly used in cosmetic field.
  • sun-screening agent vitamins, emollient, hydrating agents, whitening agent, peeling agents, etc.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter as emollient.
  • the amount of the active ingredient can be that commonly in the cosmetic field.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain one or more adjuvants that commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • additives examples include preserving agents, fillers, antioxidants, fragrances, basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid) , and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present includes one or more preserving agents.
  • Suitable preservativing agent include, but are not limited to, glycerin containing compounds (e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol) , benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc. ) , sodium benzoate, ethylenediamine-tetraacetic acid (EDTA) , potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition.
  • glycerin containing compounds e.g., glycerin and/or ethylhexylglycerin and/or phenoxyethanol
  • parabens methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
  • preservatives are known in the cosmetics industries and include salicylic acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Formaldahyde, Chlorphenism, Triclosan, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Sorbic Acid, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Quaternium-15, Stearalkonium Chloride, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Metabisulfite, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Benzalkonium Chloride, Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Neem Oil, Essential Oils (various) , Lactic Acid, and Vitamin E (tocopherol) .
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present includes one or more fillers.
  • Suitable fillers include, but are not limited to, mineral or organic origin, natural or synthetic in nature in orderto provide oil absorption or optical effects.
  • Oil absorption fillers may impart a matte effect and non-greasy feeling onto the skin.
  • Optical effects fillers may impart a soft-focus/haze/blur effect to the skin, provide the skin with a more uniform appearance, reduce the appearance of skin imperfections or discoloration, or reduce the visibility of pores.
  • zea may (corn) starch, magnesium oxide, nylon-12, nylon-66, cellulose, polyethylene, talc, talc (and) methicone, talc (and) dimethicone, perlite, sodium silicate, pumice, ptfe, polymethyl methacrylate, oryza sativa (rice) starch, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, potato starch modified, alumina, calcium sodium borosilicate, magnesium carbonate, hydrated silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, sodium carboxylmethyl starch.
  • optical effects fillers to bismuth oxychloride, silica silylate, boron nitride, iron oxide, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate (and) iron oxides, sodium potassium aluminum silicate.
  • offillers which provide both oil-absorbing and optical effects: silica, silica (and) methicone, silica (and) methicone, polysilicone-22, polysilicone-8, polysilicone-11, methyl metacrylate crosspolymer, polymethylsilsesquioxane, methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, diphenyl dimethicone/vinyl diphenyl dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and styrene/acrylates copolymer.
  • additives are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01%to 30%of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oil phase.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • At least one hydrophilic anionic associative polymer selected from acrylates/palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates/ceteth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/beheneth-25 itaconate copolymer, acrylate/palmeth-25 methacrylates copolymer, acrylate/steareth-50 acrylate copolymer, acrylates/palmeth-25 itaconate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 1%to 2%by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, and especially human skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the cosmetic composition according to the present invention on the keratin material.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention generally has a viscosity falling into the range of 40-70 UD, which is desirable for a cream.
  • the viscosity is measured at 25°C, using a ProRheo R180 viscometer equipped with a spindle M3 rotating at 200 rpm from the company ProRheo.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a yogurt-like texture.
  • the yogurt rheological property is determined by visual observing whether the cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in a container and whether the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon. Ifthe cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in the container and the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon, then the cosmetic composition is deemed to have a yogurt-like texture.
  • compositions according to inventive formulas also demonstrate a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.
  • the percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient or active matters.
  • the cosmetic compositions listed above are prepared as follows.
  • phase A water phase
  • phase B into phase A and keep homogenizing at for 10 minutes to get oil-in-water emulsion
  • phase D (Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer) into the emulsion and homogenize for 10 minutes;
  • phase E (Silicone) and then introduce phase E under agitation room temperature;
  • the yogurt rheological property is determined by visual observing whether the cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in a container and whether the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon. Ifthe cosmetic composition tested is flat and glossy while maintaining in the container and the cosmetic composition has similar texture as a thick yogurt when it is dug out with a spoon, then the cosmetic composition is deemed to have a yogurt-like texture.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to comparative formulas do not have a yogurt-like texture and has too low viscosity, which is undesirable for a cream.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to inventive formulas have a yogurt-like texture and have desirable viscosity.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to inventive formulas demonstrate a thick-to-thin-to-fresh sensory process upon application.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, comprenant : (i) au moins un polymère associatif anionique hydrophile en une quantité supérieure à 0,75 % en poids du poids total de la composition cosmétique ; et (ii) au moins un polymère épaississant à base de cellulose en une quantité supérieure à 0,1 % en poids du poids total de la composition cosmétique. L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou de maquillage d'une matière kératinique, comprenant l'étape d'application de la composition cosmétique sur la matière kératinique.
PCT/CN2019/085225 2019-04-30 2019-04-30 Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau WO2020220277A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
KR1020217033776A KR20220002298A (ko) 2019-04-30 2019-04-30 수중유형 에멀젼 형태의 화장료 조성물
JP2021562145A JP2022531108A (ja) 2019-04-30 2019-04-30 水中油型エマルションの形態の化粧用組成物
CN201980095952.7A CN114007573A (zh) 2019-04-30 2019-04-30 呈水包油乳液形式的化妆品组合物
PCT/CN2019/085225 WO2020220277A1 (fr) 2019-04-30 2019-04-30 Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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PCT/CN2019/085225 WO2020220277A1 (fr) 2019-04-30 2019-04-30 Composition cosmétique sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau

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WO2020220277A1 true WO2020220277A1 (fr) 2020-11-05

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KR102439781B1 (ko) * 2022-03-22 2022-09-02 한국콜마주식회사 고함량 오일을 안정화한 수중유형 저점도 화장료 조성물

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