EP1140008A1 - Gels contenant de la lecithine, ou micro-emulsions huile dans l'eau, contenant de la lecithine, de basse viscosite, a usage cosmetique ou pharmaceutique - Google Patents

Gels contenant de la lecithine, ou micro-emulsions huile dans l'eau, contenant de la lecithine, de basse viscosite, a usage cosmetique ou pharmaceutique

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Publication number
EP1140008A1
EP1140008A1 EP99966983A EP99966983A EP1140008A1 EP 1140008 A1 EP1140008 A1 EP 1140008A1 EP 99966983 A EP99966983 A EP 99966983A EP 99966983 A EP99966983 A EP 99966983A EP 1140008 A1 EP1140008 A1 EP 1140008A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
water
oil
phase
emulsifier
microemulsions
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP99966983A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jörg SCHREIBER
Florian Wolf
Delphine Croizet
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1140008A1 publication Critical patent/EP1140008A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/017—Mixtures of compounds
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/14—Derivatives of phosphoric acid
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/54—Silicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to gels or microemulsions of the oil-in-water type containing phospholipids, to processes for their preparation and to their use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes. They are used topically in particular.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
  • finely dispersed droplets of the second phase water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O ⁇ / V emulsions
  • the droplet diameters of the common emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 ⁇ m to approx. 50 ⁇ m.
  • Such "macroemulsions” are milky white and opaque without any additional coloring additives.
  • Finer "macroemulsions" whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 10 '1 ⁇ m to approx. 1 ⁇ m, are again bluish white and opaque, without coloring additives.
  • the droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions is in the range from about 10 "2 ⁇ m to about 10 " 1 ⁇ m.
  • Such microemulsions are usually of low viscosity.
  • the viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.
  • microemulsions are that active substances can be more finely dispersed in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that they are sprayable due to their low viscosity. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, corresponding products are distinguished by a high level of cosmetic elegance.
  • a disadvantage of the microemulsions of the prior art is that a high content of one or more emulsifiers must always be used, since the small droplet size requires a high interface between the phases, which generally has to be stabilized by emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers like any chemical substance, can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions in individual cases. It is known, for example, that certain light dermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers, but also by various fats, and simultaneous exposure to sunlight. Such light dermatoses are also called "Mallorca acne".
  • One object of the present invention was therefore to develop sun protection products.
  • the present invention relates to special embodiments of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.
  • UVC range rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm
  • UVB range rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • the narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.
  • UVA range It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can also cause damage. It has been shown that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
  • additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • UV absorbers or UV reflectors are most inorganic pigments that are known to be used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.
  • microemulsions are also suitable for other cosmetic dermatological applications, for example deodorants, so that the present invention relates in a particular embodiment to microemulsions as the basis for cosmetic deodorants.
  • Cosmetic deodorants are used to eliminate body odor that arises when the fresh, odorless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms.
  • the usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.
  • astringents primarily aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (aluminum chlorohydrate) - can reduce the formation of sweat.
  • the use of antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants can reduce the bacterial flora on the skin. Ideally, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.
  • Deodorants should meet the following conditions:
  • liquid deodorants for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like
  • solid preparations for example deodorant sticks ("sticks"), powder, powder sprays, intimate cleansing agents, etc.
  • microemulsions as a basis for deodorizing or antiperspirant preparations is also known.
  • Another object of the present invention was therefore to develop preparations which are suitable as a basis for cosmetic deodorants or antiperspirants and which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinally pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms.
  • the invention therefore relates to cleansing emulsions, in particular facial cleansing emulsions, preferably makeup removers, for example eye makeup removers.
  • Such preparations are known per se. Usually, these are mixtures of cosmetic oils or aqueous preparations of surface-active substances, the function of which is to solubilize the contamination or the make-up body and to remove it from the skin.
  • Waterproof eye make-up for example mascara
  • water-based make-up removers only with special surfactants.
  • these surfactants often have only limited physiological tolerance. When such substances come into contact with the mucous membrane, in particular the mucous membrane of the eyes, these substances cause irritation, which is manifested, for example, in reddening of the eyes. Reactions of this kind are typical for products containing surfactants.
  • An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy such problems.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair and the scalp.
  • the present invention relates to preparations which serve to strengthen the individual hair and / or to give the hair style overall hold and fullness.
  • human hair can be divided into the living part, the hair root, and the dead part, the hair shaft.
  • the hair shaft in turn consists of the medulla, which, due to developmental history, has become insignificant and receded for modern humans and is often completely absent with thin hair, furthermore the cortex surrounding the medulla and the cuticle surrounding the whole of the medulla and cortex.
  • the cuticle in particular, but also the keratinous area between the cuticle and cortex as the outer covering of the hair, are particularly exposed to environmental influences, by combing and brushing, but also by hair treatment, in particular hair coloring and hair shaping, e.g. Perm method, exposed.
  • the inside of the hair can also be affected.
  • oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide
  • the inside of the hair can also be affected.
  • human hair is to be dyed permanently, in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing processes can be considered.
  • the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, more rarely diamines) and Bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.
  • the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair. The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.
  • water-soluble hair components e.g. urea, uric acid, xanthine, keratin, glycogen, citric acid, lactic acid
  • urea uric acid
  • xanthine xanthine
  • keratin glycogen
  • citric acid lactic acid
  • hair care cosmetics have been used for some time, which are intended to be rinsed out of the hair again after exposure, and others which are intended to remain on the hair.
  • the latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of the hairstyle, for example by giving the hair more volume, fixing the hairstyle over a longer period of time or improving its manageability.
  • the combability of the hair can be decisively improved by quaternary ammonium compounds. Such connections are drawn onto the hair and are often still detectable on the hair after several washes.
  • a particular object of the present invention was to provide finely dispersed oil-in-water preparations with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, for example can find uses described in advance.
  • Another object of the invention was to enrich the limited supply of finely dispersed oil-in-water preparations of the prior art.
  • hydrophilic emulsifiers namely polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated emulsifiers, change their solubility behavior from water-soluble to fat-soluble as the temperature rises.
  • a characteristic of the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier is its HLB value.
  • HLB 20 * (1 - S / A) (formula I)
  • A acid number of the recovered acid
  • Emulsifiers with HLB values of 6-8 are generally W / O emulsifiers, those with HLB values of 8-18 are generally O / V emulsifiers.
  • phase inversion temperature range The temperature range in which the emulsifiers change their solubility is called the phase inversion temperature range.
  • PIT phase inversion temperature range
  • microemulsions produced in this way can be practically transparent at high temperature, for example in PIT, but become opaque again when they drop to room temperature.
  • a particular object of the present invention was to provide low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed oil-in-water systems with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, for example the uses described above.
  • Another The object of the invention was to enrich the limited range of low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed lecithin-containing systems of the oil-in-water type of the prior art.
  • Lecithin-containing microemulsions for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, parenteral applications are known from the literature. Droplet sizes below 100 nm are achieved by high-pressure homogenization of appropriate macroemulsions. It is disadvantageous that high shear forces arise on the droplets and metal abrasion occurs which can only be removed with difficulty from the corresponding dosage forms. Furthermore, ultrasound can also be used to produce microemulsions. The disadvantage is that these methods are expensive because of the high energy input.
  • microemulsions with lecithin are obtained in the presence of a high concentration of short-chain alcohols, alkanediols, amines, which are not suitable for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, parenteral applications.
  • Phospholipid O / W microemulsions with cosolvents such as short-chain alcohols (propanol, butanol, ethanol, isopropanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol); Alkanediols, short-chain alkyl ethers or amines are described in the literature. Int. J. Pharm. 125, 1995, 107; Int. J. Pharm. 111, 1994, 63; Int. J. Pharm. 161, 1993, 161; Int. J. Pharm. 106, 1994, 51; Int. J. Pharm. 116, 1995, 253; Int. J. Pharm. 84, 1992, R5-R8; J. Phys. Chem. 95, 1991, 989, Langmuir 14, 1998, 3506; Langmuir 11, 1995, 1576; S ⁇ FW 124, 1998, 614-623.
  • cosolvents such
  • Phospholipid O / W microemulsions with surfactants are described in the literature.
  • ethanol as an amphiphilic cosolvent for the production of lecithin-containing microemulsions and the gelation with polysaccharides such as gelatin or agar is also described in WO 95/31969.
  • Transparent oil-in-water emulsions containing lecithin thickened with gelatin are also described in FR 2618351. Transparency is achieved by aligning the refractive indices of water and oil phase. There is therefore no microemulsion here.
  • EP 406162 B1 describes a method for producing a nanoemulsion with triglycerides or fatty acid esters. On page 2, lines 36-43 and on page 3 lines 18-28, it is emphasized that the emulsifier lecithin should have a lamellar liquid-crystalline structure, which is then processed with a high-pressure homogenizer to form the nanoemulsion.
  • DE 3930928 C2 describes pharmaceutical formulations containing cyclosporin.
  • propylene glycol or glycofurol is advantageously used as the hydrophilic component as the microemulsion concentrate.
  • these concentrates represent O ⁇ / V or W / O macroemulsions.
  • the gel state which can advantageously be run through and which is not to be regarded as a macroemulsion is not mentioned.
  • Essentially ethoxylated emulsifiers are used in the examples, lecithin-containing formulations and the procedure in the preparation of the invention on which this application is based are not mentioned except for example 1.4.
  • short-chain ethers such as Transcutol and Glycofurol are not very suitable for cosmetic purposes due to their penetration.
  • EP 0100448 and DE 3225706 describe phosphoipid-containing microemulsions consisting of an ethoxylated glycerol ester, phospholipid and an oil phase. Isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl triacetate or miglyols are used as the oil phase. The lipophilic phase is mixed with phospholipid and O ⁇ / V emulsifier and then diluted with water. There is no intermediate gel state. Ethanol or isopropanol is used as the short-chain alcohol. These ingredients are known as penetration accelerators and are therefore disadvantageous.
  • EP 0760237 describes pharmaceutical preconcentrates which consist of mono-, di-, triglycerides as the oil phase, pharmaceutical active ingredient and one phospholipid and another
  • Emulsifier exist. Dilution of the concentrate in water gives O ⁇ / V-
  • Castor oil or arachis oil can be used as oil phases. There is no intermediate gel state.
  • WO 9709964 describes mixtures of phospholipids and hydrophilic surfactants which, in addition to the oil phase, contain a “surfactant film modifier”. This is preferably ethanol or a C-3 alcohol.
  • a surfactant film modifier preferably ethanol or a C-3 alcohol.
  • Triglyceride Triglyceride
  • isopropyl myristate The generation of the microemulsion via an intermediate gel state is not disclosed.
  • WO 97/30695 describes microemulsions for intravenous purposes.
  • Concentrates are first created that consist of phospholipids, propylene glycol (or
  • PEG poly(ethylene glycol)
  • an emulsifier with a high HLB value an active ingredient and 0-30% water.
  • Triglycerides or propylene glycol diesters are used as oil components.
  • Propylene glycol gives milky, opaque emulsions after dilution with water.
  • EP 852941 describes nanodispersions which are formed by dissolving the phospholipid in ethanol and then adding an unsaturated ethoxylated sorbitan ester and an active ingredient (or oil phase).
  • Triglycerides are solubilized using the method presented.
  • the disadvantage is that only
  • Sorbitan esters especially unsaturated ones, can be used, so after a lot effective antioxidants for product protection of the phospholipids which are already to be stabilized (if unsaturated ones are to be used) must be sought.
  • the same disadvantages arise in WO 96/37192, in which sphingo- and glycolipids are solubilized.
  • EP 956851 describes nanodispersions that can be produced in two different ways.
  • the first method relates to the mixing of a membrane-forming molecule (phospholipid), a co-emulsifier (ethoxylated) and a lipophilic component (oil phase or active ingredient), which are mixed until a homogeneous, clear solution is obtained (nanodispersion pre-phase).
  • This preliminary phase is entered into a water phase without energy input (page 2, lines 35-50).
  • lines 51-52 it is stated that water is not necessary for the mixing of the phospholipid / co-emulsifier / oil phase mixture.
  • the advantage of adding water and the consequent formation of a gel state i.e. the advantageous formation of a mesophase was not recognized.
  • the second method differs from the first in that the pre-phase also contains propylene glycol or ethanol.
  • the pre-phase also contains propylene glycol or ethanol.
  • triglycerides are used as the typical oil phase, which is a disadvantage.
  • a lipophilic co-emulsifier which makes it possible to dispense with ethanol, is not described.
  • DE 3302898 describes an emulsifying system which contains a fatty acid or a protein condensate, a polyethoxylated sterol and a phosphatide.
  • emulsoids are understood to mean emulsions whose particle size is smaller than one micron.
  • finely divided emulsions for example PIT emulsions
  • WO 9405298 describes "Submicron Emulsions" for eye applications. The droplet size is reduced by homogenizing a coarse emulsion in one
  • microemulsions with cationic ingredients are known, which as
  • Lecithin organogels are described in the literature. Colloid Polymer Science 268,
  • emulsifier-free organogels are obtained by adding small amounts of water to a mixture of organic solvent and lecithin.
  • inverse micelles form water-like micelles (“wormlike micelles” that twist with one another and thus explain the high viscosity of these mixtures. (Colloid Polym. Sei. 268, 1990, 356).
  • these lecithin gels are not microemulsion gels, since the dispersed phase is not in droplet form and, moreover, a corresponding viscosity-increasing substance for the continuous phase is missing. Furthermore, it is not described that these prior art gels can also be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. Furthermore, it is not described that these gels can also be obtained in the presence of an O ⁇ / emulsifier or a W / O emulsifier. Furthermore, it is not described that the prior art gels can be converted into other colloid chemical phases in the presence of water, e.g. O / W microemulsions and O / W macroemulsions.
  • gel-like preparations can be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, which can be converted into low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions by dilution with water. It is not described that gel-like preparations can be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier or a W / O emulsifier, which can be converted into low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / V microemulsions by dilution with water.
  • the object of the invention was to avoid the disadvantages mentioned. This object is achieved according to the invention.
  • the invention relates to gels or low-viscosity transparent or translucent microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase, which are essentially composed of non-volatile constituents, comprising:
  • At least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier obtainable in such a way that the water phase with its constituents becomes the oil phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid and the Oid / V emulsifier and optionally added to the W / O emulsifier, the phases being mixed together and a gel state being obtained, and if a low-viscosity O / W microemulsion is desired, further parts of the water phase are added and the phases are mixed, the phases if desired, may contain further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the preparation of gels or low-viscosity transparent or translucent microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase which is composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, containing at least one phospholipid and at least one oil in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier, characterized in that a phospholipid is dissolved in the oil phase, optionally with further constituents, and the water phase, optionally with further constituents, is added and the phases are mixed, with each other there is an increase in viscosity and e.g.
  • the gels are obtained, and the microemulsions result upon further addition of the water phase, the oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier being able to be added to the oil phase or being added at the stage of gel formation or after the gel has been prepared .
  • the water phase is expediently metered or added dropwise to the oil phase, for example stirring in, until there is an increase in viscosity or a gel forms, and the remaining water phase is then metered in.
  • the lecithin is advantageously dissolved in the oil phase (possibly in the heat). However, it is also possible to dissolve the lecithin in the oil at room temperature.
  • the O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier can be added directly to the oil phase or only at the stage of gel formation or after the lecithin has been prepared.
  • Organogels (phospholide / organic solvent / water). The water phase can be added at room temperature or, if appropriate, at elevated temperature.
  • the components are preferably mixed by stirring, if appropriate at elevated temperature.
  • an energy input e.g. by homogenizing, i.e. to be dispensed with.
  • Lecithin in the description also means, for example, the phospholipids, which include, for example, the following substances: phosphatidic acids, the actual lecithins, cardolipins, lysophospholipids, lysolecithins, plasmalogens, phosphosphingolipids, sphingomyelines. Preferred substances are described below.
  • Phosphatidic acids are glycerol derivatives which are esterified in the 1-sn and 2-position with fatty acids (1-sn position: mostly saturated, 2-position: mostly mono- or polyunsaturated), on the other hand with atom 3-sn with phosphoric acid and by the general structural formula
  • Lecithins 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine
  • Lecithins 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine
  • Lecithins are, for example, also due to the general structural formula characterized, wherein R and R 2 are typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
  • Cardiolipins (1,3-bisphosphatidylglycerols) are phospholipids made from two phosphatidic acids linked via glycerol.
  • Lysophospholipids are obtained when an acyl residue is split off from phospholipids by phospholipase A (e.g. lysolecithins).
  • phospholipase A e.g. lysolecithins
  • Lysolecithins for example, are characterized by the general structural formula
  • R and R 2 are typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
  • Preferred phospholipids are phosphatidyl choiine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol or N-acylphosphatidylethanolamine or mixtures of two or more of these compounds.
  • the phospholipids also include plasmalogens in which an aldehyde (in the form of an enol ether) is bound in the 1 position instead of a fatty acid; the 0-1 -sn-alkenyl verb corresponding to the phosphatidylcholines.
  • B. are called phosphatidal cholines.
  • the basic structure of the phosphosphingolipids is based on sphingosine or phytosphingosin, which are characterized by the following structural formulas:
  • R and R 3 independently of one another represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is selected from the group: hydrogen atom, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, sugar radicals, with organic radicals esterified or unesterified phosphate groups, with organic radicals esterified or unesterified sulfate groups and Y represents either a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or another hetero-functional radical.
  • R and R 3 represent alkyl radicals
  • R 4 represents an organyl radical
  • Sphingomyeline are organylphosphorylated sphingolipids of the type
  • Lecithins are particularly preferred phospholipids.
  • Lecithin types to be used advantageously are selected from crude lecithins which have been deoiled and / or fractionated and / or spray dried and / or acetylated and / or hydrolyzed and / or hydrogenated. They are commercially available. Soy lecithins are preferred.
  • Phospholipids to be used advantageously according to the invention can be purchased, for example, under the trade names Phospholipon 25 (Nattermann), Emulmetik 120 (Lucas Meyer), Sternpur E (Stern), Sternpur PM (Stern), Nathin 3KE (Stern), Phospholipon 90 (Rh ⁇ ne-Poulenc ), Phosopholipon 90 H (Rhône-Poulenc).
  • the preferred intermediate gel formation according to the invention i.e. the corresponding colloid chemical phase
  • its targeted degradation by dilution with water i.e. the corresponding colloid chemical phase
  • Emulsifiers a wider variety of cosmetic oil phases.
  • Emulsifiers are advantageous if stability problems occur or active ingredients are difficult to solubilize. Furthermore, it can be dispensed with ethanol, so that the skin drying out or excessive penetration-promoting disadvantages of
  • Suitable O / W emulsifiers are described below.
  • Ethoxylated fatty acid esters and fatty acid glycerides in particular PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides
  • Polyglycerol esters especially polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate
  • Ethoxylated glycerol esters in particular PEG-20 glyceryl laurate PEG-20 glyceryl steart
  • Fatty acid ethoxylates especially PEG-20 monostearate Fatty alcohol ethoxylates, in particular
  • Sulphated glycerol esters in particular Na glyceryl cocoyl sulphates, ammonium glyceryl cocoyl sulphate
  • Sorbitan esters or their derivatives e.g.
  • PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate can optionally be used.
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier or the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier which can be chosen from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-0- (-CH 2 -CH 2 -0 -) "- H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 50 of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
  • R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -H where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 40
  • the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) “-R ' where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80
  • the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 10 to 80 represent the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and
  • R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -O -) "- CH 2 -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 - 30 C atoms and n one Represent the number from 10 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100, for example of the sorbeth type, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -S0 3 -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 50.
  • R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) 0-) n -CH 2 -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 3 to 50 represent, the alkyl ether sulfates or the underlying acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -0 -) "- S0 3 -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 - 30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 1 to 50, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-0-X n -Y m -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Represent alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxy
  • R-0-X n -Y m -R ' where R and R' independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another Represent numbers from 5 to 100
  • the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X n N m -R ' where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each have either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another represent numbers from 5 to 100
  • Glycerol esters of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids selected from the group consisting of the generic formula
  • glycerol esters of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids in the context of the present invention are particularly advantageously selected from the group in which the ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid residue is a lactic acid residue
  • R 1 is a C 3 -C 9 -alkyl radical.
  • Lactic acid esters of this type are available, for example, under the product name “LACTODAN B30” from Grindsted Prods.
  • citric acid esters are available, for example, under the product name "IMWITOR 370" from Hüls AG.
  • R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid with 6 to 26 carbon atoms represents.
  • R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid having 6 to 26 carbon atoms.
  • R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid having 6 to 26 carbon atoms.
  • R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid with 6 to 26 carbon atoms represents.
  • PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, polyglycerin-10 stearate, polyglycerin-10 laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 monostearate, ceteareth-12, oleth-15, Na -lauryl ether sulfate, sodium glyceryl cocoyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate, diacetyl tartaric acid mono / dilinoleate, glyceryl sodium linolate ether, glyceryl linoleate ether 30% Polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides, lauryl glycoside, C12-C13 alkyl malic acid
  • oils and fats customary in cosmetics can be used as the oil phase.
  • the process according to the invention enables the production of finely divided microemulsions (the droplet size is approximately 10-100 nm) with a large number of typical oil phases: e.g. Ether (dicaprylyl ether), triglycerides (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), alcohols (octyldodecanol), ester oils (cetearyl isonoanoate), hydrocarbons (dioctylcyclohexane), paraffins, silicone oils (cyclomethicone) or mixtures of these oil phases.
  • Ether dicaprylyl ether
  • triglycerides Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride
  • alcohols octyldodecanol
  • ester oils cetearyl isonoanoate
  • hydrocarbons dioctylcyclohexane
  • paraffins cyclomethicone
  • oil phase of the preparations can also contain sphingolipids and / or glycolipids of synthetic or natural origin, in particular ceramides, sphingomyelins, cerebrosides and / or gangliosides.
  • the proportion of these lipids can e.g. 0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0 - 2, in particular 0 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the method presented opens up the possibility of also using the viscosity-increased conditions described above, such as gels, as a delivery system.
  • these gels can be applied by the consumer as a hair gel.
  • the dilution of these gels then leads to O ⁇ / micro or O ⁇ / V macro emulsions on the scalp.
  • shower oils can be applied topically using gel phases according to the invention. The shower water transfers the gel on the skin into a water-continuous micro or macro emulsion. The added phospholipid and other ingredients of the preparation remain on the skin (moisturizing).
  • these gels can advantageously be used to remove skin impurities.
  • the gels have the advantageous property of solubilizing lipid-soluble impurities on the skin.
  • These facial / body cleansing gels can then be diluted with water by the user, the sebum being solubilized in the oil droplets, so that deep-cleansing of the skin is made possible. At the same time, part of the phospholipid remains on the skin and thus increases the moisture content.
  • Lecithin 0.1 - 50%
  • additives for the oil phase 0.01-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-35% water 0.1-75% water
  • additives for the oil phase 0.01-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-35% water 0.1-75% water
  • Lecithin 0.01 - 10%, especially 0.1 - 5.0%
  • O / V emulsifier 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%
  • Oil phase 0.01 - 50%, especially 0.1 - 30%
  • additives for the oil phase 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60% water: 40-99%
  • Lecithin 0.01 - 10%, especially 0.1 - 5.0%
  • O / V emulsifier 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%
  • W / O emulsifier 0.01-10%, especially 0.1-5.0%
  • Oil phase 0.01 - 50%, especially 0.1 - 30%
  • additives for the oil phase 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60% water 40-99%
  • Additives can also be auxiliary substances or active substances.
  • the weight ratio of lecithin / O ⁇ / V emulsifier in the preparations according to the invention can vary, e.g. from 1:30 to 2: 1.
  • the ratio of lecithin / OW emulsifier is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1.
  • the ratio of lecithin / OW emulsifier: 6 to 1: 1.5 is particularly preferred.
  • the gels and microemulsions according to the invention can optionally also contain one or more water-in-oil emulsifiers.
  • the W / O emulsifiers are particularly advantageous when, for example, in the
  • Emulsifier and lecithin tend to instability in storage.
  • Emulsifiers with an HLB value in the range of 1-10 are preferred.
  • W / O emulsifiers are preferably used: one or more polyethoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or Gators one or more Monoester, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W / O-Emul ⁇ and / or one or more monoethers of polyols and esters thereof as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more sorbitan esters as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more silicone emulsifiers as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more methyl glucose esters as W / O emulsifiers,
  • this W / O emulsifier being selected from the group of
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 10
  • polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30
  • esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of Represent 1 to 20,
  • esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH 2 -0-) n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n one Represent a number from 1 to 40,
  • polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10
  • cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,
  • polyglycerol mono- or di- or polyester where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
  • the pentaerythritol ester the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
  • the propylene glycol ester the fatty acids independently representing branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues
  • the sorbitan ester where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues
  • fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • the methyl glucose ester the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals, fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Diglycerin ethers where the fatty acids independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl-hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues.
  • Sucrosesters where the fatty acids independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl mo
  • Glyceryl monoisostearate diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, cetyl alcohol, archidyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, glycceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocethylene glycol, polyceryl mono ethylene glycol (4) Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan trioleate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan trisostearate, polyethylene glycol (5) phytosterol, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl tristearate, polyethylene glycol (5) glyceryl stearate, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, polyglyceryldearyl dipolycopolyethyl-2-dipolyhydroxy-ethyl-dipoly-hydroxyl-hydroxyl-copolyhydroxy-2-dipoly-hydroxyl-
  • the weight ratio of lecithin / (OW emulsifier and W / O emulsifier) in the preparations according to the invention can vary, e.g. from 1:30 to 2: 1.
  • the ratio of lecithin / (O ⁇ emulsifier and W / O emulsifier) is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1.
  • the ratio of lecithin / O ⁇ / V emulsifier and W / O emulsifier is particularly preferably 1: 6 to 1: 1.5.
  • the gels or microemulsions according to the invention can have high oil phase fractions. They can be used in particular for the treatment of skin roughness and for smoothing the skin and they cause an increase in skin moisture.
  • the preparations described below can be gels or microemulsions according to the invention.
  • the gels or microemulsions according to the invention can be used as delivery systems for e.g. cosmetic or e.g. dermatological active ingredients, additives, or auxiliaries are used. They are preferably applied topically.
  • the gels according to the invention can be used as a delivery system (make-up remover, hair gel, facial cleansing gel, body care gel).
  • the gels according to the invention can be converted into other colloid chemical phases in the presence of water, e.g. O / V microemulsions and O / W macroemulsions.
  • O / W emulsifier and optionally a W / O emulsifier gel-like preparations can be obtained which can be converted into low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions by dilution with water.
  • odor maskers such as the common perfume components
  • odor absorbers for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite, savonite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.
  • Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the microemulsions according to the invention.
  • Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichlo ⁇ -2 , - hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary Ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11.trimethy.-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those in the patent publication DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 described active agents.
  • irgasan 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane
  • chlorhexidine chlorhexidine
  • the customary antiperspirant active ingredients can likewise be used advantageously in the microemulsions according to the invention, in particular astringents, for example basic aluminum chlorides.
  • the amount of the deodorant active ingredients and / or antiperspirant active ingredients can be, for example, 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 35% by weight, in each case based on the total face of the preparation.
  • the cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can be in the form of aerosols, that is to say from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations which can be sprayed by a pump device, or in the form of liquid compositions which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, but also in the form of microemulsions which can be applied from normal bottles and containers.
  • Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic deodorants according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • the O / W microemulsions according to the invention are sprayed as aerosol droplets.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts for example sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their
  • UVB filters which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.
  • UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • Such substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention.
  • the same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, advantageous active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only active ingredient class, for example when a cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin.
  • Amino acids eg histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-camosin, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene
  • lipoic acid and their derivatives e.g. dihydroliponic acid
  • aurothioglucose propylthiouracil and other thiols
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl -, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters , Ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptahioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable dosages e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • Chelator s e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, ⁇ -hydroxypalmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives
  • ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg-ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E-acetate vitamin E-acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A - palmitate
  • selenomethionine e.g. stilbene oxide, trans- Stilbene oxide
  • derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the water phase of the O ⁇ V microemulsions according to the invention can also contain thickeners, so that the overall preparation appears gel-like and is to be regarded as a microemulsion gel.
  • thickeners Carragheenan or PEG-4-Rapeseedamide and Laureth-2 amide MEA, for example, have proven to be suitable thickeners.
  • active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • vitamins for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives
  • vitamins of the B and D series very cheap the vitamin Bi
  • microemulsions according to the invention are of course also favored according to the invention, a further advantage of the microemulsions according to the invention is that the high number of finely divided droplets makes oil-soluble or lipophilic active substances, in particular, highly biologically available.
  • the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit.
  • Aqueous cosmetic detergents according to the invention or low-water or anhydrous detergent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, e.g.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or semi-solid form, for example as gels or microemulsions. They preferably contain at least one anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor.
  • the surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor.
  • the surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts, for example, are advantageous to use.
  • the preparations according to the invention intended for cleaning the hair or skin contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, moisturizing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents , Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.
  • the additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, moisturizing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents , Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.
  • the preparations according to the invention surprisingly have very good foaming, high cleansing power and have a highly regenerative effect on the general skin condition.
  • the preparations according to the invention have a skin-smoothing effect, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.
  • the invention it is e.g. possible to apply a mixture of lecithin / PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate / octyldocecanol / glycerin to the hair, so that, for example, a stay-in conditioner product is created.
  • the products can also be provided with propellant gas and applied as a foam to the hair (or to the skin).
  • the gels or microemulsions according to the invention can contain the usual constituents, usually for example film-forming polymers.
  • film formers are preferably those which are selected from the group of substances which, according to the INCI nomenclature (international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient), bear the name "polyquaternium", for example:
  • Polyquaternium-2 (Chemical Abstracts No. 63451-27-4, e.g. Mirapol® A-15)
  • Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of the acrylamide and the ß-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, CAS No. 26006-22-4)
  • Polyquaternium-6 (homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, CAS No. 26062-79-3, e.g. Merquat® 100
  • Polyquaternium-17 CAS-No. 90624-75-2 e.g. Mirapol® AD-1 polyquaternium-19 quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol polyquaternium-20 water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether polyquaternium-21 polysiloxane-polydimethyl-dimethylammonium acetate copolymer, e.g. Abil® B 9905
  • Polyquaternium-28 vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer e.g. Gafquat® HS-100
  • Polyquatemium-29 e.g. Lexquat® CH Polyquaternium-31 CAS no. 136505-02-7, e.g. Hypan® QT 100 polyquatemium-32 N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -ethanaminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide , CAS no. 35429-19-7 Polyquaternium-37 CAS-No. 26161-33-1 cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts such as CTAB, CTAC.
  • Preparations according to the invention for hair care advantageously contain 0.01-5% by weight of one or more film formers, preferably 0.1-3% by weight, in particular 0.2-2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Such embodiments of the preparations according to the invention care for hair damaged or damaged by environmental influences or prevent such environmental influences.
  • the preparations according to the invention give the hairstyle loose fullness and firmness without being tacky.
  • the preparations according to the invention can be used, for example, as a skin protection emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient lotion, day or night emulsion, etc.
  • microemulsions according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, in particular if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin.
  • preparations according to the invention may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
  • the transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid.
  • all classes of active substances are in principle geeginet as pharmaceutical active substances, lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, etc.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers , softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers , softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.
  • esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with
  • Phospholipon 90 (Rhönen-Poulenc, FR) is used as lecithin in the following examples.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OA ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 3 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 3 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / V microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 10 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 10 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 12 The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 12 The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 14 The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 14 The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture cools, an O / V microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase continues to drop and the mixture cools, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 18 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 18
  • perfume fragrances perfume atomizers
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 20 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 20 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 21 Deodorant / AT Pump Sprayer
  • Example 22 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ N microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 22 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ N microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase continues to drop and the mixture cools, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 24 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / V microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 24
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase continues to drop and the mixture cools, an O / W microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 26 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 26 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture cools, an O / V microemulsion is formed.
  • the oil phase and part of the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O ⁇ / microemulsion is formed.
  • Example 30 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms.
  • Example 30 The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms.
  • the oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C.
  • the water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des gels ou des micro-émulsions de type huile dans l'eau, transparentes ou translucides, de basse viscosité, comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase huileuse, constitués essentiellement de composants peu volatils. Ces gels ou micro-émulsions comprennent au moins un phospholipide et au moins un émulsifiant huile dans l'eau, ainsi qu'éventuellement au moins un émulsifiant eau dans l'huile. Ils s'obtiennent de la manière suivante : la phase aqueuse avec ses constituants est ajoutée à la phase huileuse avec ses constituants, notamment le phospholipide et l'émulsifiant huile dans l'eau et éventuellement l'émulsifiant eau dans l'huile. Les phases sont mélangées et un gel est alors obtenu. Si l'on souhaite obtenir une micro-émulsion huile dans l'eau de basse viscosité, d'autres parties de la phase aqueuse sont ajoutées, puis les phases sont mélangées, ces dernières pouvant contenir éventuellement d'autres auxiliaires, additifs et/ou agents actifs.
EP99966983A 1998-12-22 1999-12-21 Gels contenant de la lecithine, ou micro-emulsions huile dans l'eau, contenant de la lecithine, de basse viscosite, a usage cosmetique ou pharmaceutique Ceased EP1140008A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19859427 1998-12-22
DE19859427A DE19859427A1 (de) 1998-12-22 1998-12-22 Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische lecithinhaltige Gele oder niedrigviskose, lecithinhaltige O/W-Mikroemulsionen
PCT/EP1999/010241 WO2000037042A1 (fr) 1998-12-22 1999-12-21 Gels contenant de la lecithine, ou micro-emulsions huile dans l'eau, contenant de la lecithine, de basse viscosite, a usage cosmetique ou pharmaceutique

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