EP1140008A1

EP1140008A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical gels which contain lecithin, or low viscosity o/w microemulsions which contain lecithin

Info

Publication number: EP1140008A1
Application number: EP99966983A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jörg SCHREIBER; Florian Wolf; Delphine Croizet
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 1998-12-22
Filing date: 1999-12-21
Publication date: 2001-10-10
Also published as: DE19859427A1; WO2000037042A1; US20020146375A1

Abstract

The invention relates to gels or low viscosity transparent or translucent oil-in-water microemulsions which comprise a water phase and an oil phase and which essentially consist of constituents that are not easily volatized. These constituents contain at least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally contain at least one W/O emulsifier which can be obtained by adding the water phase with the constituents thereof to the oil phase with its constituents, especially with the phospholipid and the O/W emulsifier and optionally with the W/O emulsifier, whereby the phases are mixed together and a gel state is attained. If a low viscosity O/W microemulsion is desired, additional parts of the water phase are added and the phases are mixed, whereby the phases can optionally contain additional auxiliary, addition and/or active agents.

Description

description

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical gels containing iecithine or low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions

The present invention relates to gels or microemulsions of the oil-in-water type containing phospholipids, to processes for their preparation and to their use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes. They are used topically in particular.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

CONFIRMATION COPY Common manifestations of cosmetic or dermatological preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more fat or oil phases are present in addition to one or more water phases. Of these systems, the actual emulsions are the most widespread.

In simple emulsions, finely dispersed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in OΛ / V emulsions) are contained in one phase and enclosed by an emulsifier shell. The droplet diameters of the common emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such "macroemulsions" are milky white and opaque without any additional coloring additives. Finer "macroemulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 10 ^'1 μm to approx. 1 μm, are again bluish white and opaque, without coloring additives.

Micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters smaller than approx. 10 ^"2 μm are reserved to appear clear and transparent.

In contrast, the droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions is in the range from about 10 ^"2 μm to about 10 ^{" 1} μm. Such microemulsions are usually of low viscosity. The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be more finely dispersed in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that they are sprayable due to their low viscosity. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, corresponding products are distinguished by a high level of cosmetic elegance.

A disadvantage of the microemulsions of the prior art is that a high content of one or more emulsifiers must always be used, since the small droplet size requires a high interface between the phases, which generally has to be stabilized by emulsifiers.

In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like any chemical substance, can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions in individual cases. It is known, for example, that certain light dermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers, but also by various fats, and simultaneous exposure to sunlight. Such light dermatoses are also called "Mallorca acne". One object of the present invention was therefore to develop sun protection products.

Thus, the present invention relates to special embodiments of cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

Numerous compounds are known to protect against UVB radiation, most of which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can also cause damage. It has been shown that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism. In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

UV absorbers or UV reflectors are most inorganic pigments that are known to be used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

Because of their good sprayability, microemulsions are also suitable for other cosmetic dermatological applications, for example deodorants, so that the present invention relates in a particular embodiment to microemulsions as the basis for cosmetic deodorants.

Cosmetic deodorants are used to eliminate body odor that arises when the fresh, odorless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms. The usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.

In so-called antiperspirants, astringents - primarily aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (aluminum chlorohydrate) - can reduce the formation of sweat.

The use of antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants can reduce the bacterial flora on the skin. Ideally, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.

The combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in one and the same composition is also common.

Deodorants should meet the following conditions:

1) They should cause reliable deodorization.

2) The natural biological processes of the skin must not be impaired by the deodorants. 3) The deodorants must be harmless in the event of an overdose or other improper use.

4) They should not accumulate on the skin after repeated use.

5) They should be easy to incorporate into common cosmetic formulations.

Both liquid deodorants, for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like, and solid preparations, for example deodorant sticks ("sticks"), powder, powder sprays, intimate cleansing agents, etc., are known and customary.

The use of microemulsions as a basis for deodorizing or antiperspirant preparations is also known. Their relatively high content of emulsifiers, with the disadvantages described, was previously a problem that had to be remedied.

Another object of the present invention was therefore to develop preparations which are suitable as a basis for cosmetic deodorants or antiperspirants and which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic bases for cosmetic deodorants which are distinguished by good skin tolerance.

It was also an object of the present invention to provide products based on microemulsions with the widest possible range of applications. For example, the basis for preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinally pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms.

In a particular embodiment, the invention therefore relates to cleansing emulsions, in particular facial cleansing emulsions, preferably makeup removers, for example eye makeup removers.

Such preparations are known per se. Usually, these are mixtures of cosmetic oils or aqueous preparations of surface-active substances, the function of which is to solubilize the contamination or the make-up body and to remove it from the skin. Waterproof eye make-up, for example mascara, can only be removed with water-based make-up removers only with special surfactants. However, these surfactants often have only limited physiological tolerance. When such substances come into contact with the mucous membrane, in particular the mucous membrane of the eyes, these substances cause irritation, which is manifested, for example, in reddening of the eyes. Reactions of this kind are typical for products containing surfactants.

An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy such problems.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair and the scalp. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to preparations which serve to strengthen the individual hair and / or to give the hair style overall hold and fullness.

Roughly generalized, human hair can be divided into the living part, the hair root, and the dead part, the hair shaft. The hair shaft in turn consists of the medulla, which, due to developmental history, has become insignificant and receded for modern humans and is often completely absent with thin hair, furthermore the cortex surrounding the medulla and the cuticle surrounding the whole of the medulla and cortex.

The cuticle in particular, but also the keratinous area between the cuticle and cortex as the outer covering of the hair, are particularly exposed to environmental influences, by combing and brushing, but also by hair treatment, in particular hair coloring and hair shaping, e.g. Perm method, exposed.

In the case of particularly aggressive stress, for example bleaching with oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide, in which the pigments distributed in the cortex are oxidatively destroyed, the inside of the hair can also be affected. If human hair is to be dyed permanently, in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing processes can be considered. In oxidative hair dyeing, the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, more rarely diamines) and Bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.

It is usually assumed that, in addition to the coloring effect, the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair. The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.

Even washing your hair with aggressive surfactants can stress the hair, at least reduce its appearance or the overall appearance of the hairstyle. For example, certain water-soluble hair components (e.g. urea, uric acid, xanthine, keratin, glycogen, citric acid, lactic acid) can be leached out by washing the hair.

For these reasons, hair care cosmetics have been used for some time, which are intended to be rinsed out of the hair again after exposure, and others which are intended to remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of the hairstyle, for example by giving the hair more volume, fixing the hairstyle over a longer period of time or improving its manageability.

The combability of the hair, for example, can be decisively improved by quaternary ammonium compounds. Such connections are drawn onto the hair and are often still detectable on the hair after several washes.

The prior art, however, lacked active ingredients and preparations which gave the damaged hair satisfactory care. Preparations which should give the hairstyle fullness also often proved to be inadequate, at least they were unsuitable for use as hair care preparations. Preparations of the prior art which fix the hairstyle generally contain, for example, viscous constituents which run the risk of awakening a feeling of stickiness which often has to be compensated for by skillful formulation. The task was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

Finally, the path to internally applicable emulsions, for example for the parenteral administration of active pharmaceutical ingredients and for parenteral nutrition, should also be opened by the present invention.

A particular object of the present invention was to provide finely dispersed oil-in-water preparations with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, for example can find uses described in advance. Another object of the invention was to enrich the limited supply of finely dispersed oil-in-water preparations of the prior art.

It is known per se that hydrophilic emulsifiers, namely polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated emulsifiers, change their solubility behavior from water-soluble to fat-soluble as the temperature rises. A characteristic of the hydrophilicity of a given emulsifier is its HLB value.

The definition of the HLB value for polyol fatty acid esters is given by the relationship HLB = 20 * (1 - S / A) (formula I)

The relationship applies to a group of emulsifiers whose hydrophilic portion consists only of ethylene oxide units

HLB = E / 5 (Formula II)

where S = saponification number of the ester,

A = acid number of the recovered acid

E = mass fraction of ethylene oxide (in%) in the total molecule. Emulsifiers with HLB values of 6-8 are generally W / O emulsifiers, those with HLB values of 8-18 are generally O / V emulsifiers.

Literature: "Cosmetics - Development, production and application of cosmetic products"; W. Umbach (ed.), Georg Thieme Verlag 1988.

The temperature range in which the emulsifiers change their solubility is called the phase inversion temperature range. For the phase inversion temperature range, the abbreviation "PIT" should also be used within this document.

The change in this solubility behavior is known to be manifested in that a mixture of water, oil and OΛ / V emulsifiers, which gives an OΛΛ / emulsion below the PIT after stirring, is brought to a temperature above the PIT, typically about 70-90 ° C, as an intermediate stage can pass through the state of a microemulsion in order to finally give a W / O emulsion above the PIT. If this emulsion is cooled, an OΛΛ / emulsion is again obtained, but which has a droplet size of up to 200 nm and is in the range between a microemulsion and a fine macroemulsion.

However, prior art microemulsions produced in this way have the disadvantage that, firstly, the droplet size is still quite large, that the emulsion is opaque white to bluish at room temperature and / or a high proportion of one or more emulsifiers is still necessary.

Another disadvantage is that microemulsions produced in this way can be practically transparent at high temperature, for example in PIT, but become opaque again when they drop to room temperature.

It was also a matter of remedying these evils.

A particular object of the present invention was to provide low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed oil-in-water systems with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, for example the uses described above. Another The object of the invention was to enrich the limited range of low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed lecithin-containing systems of the oil-in-water type of the prior art.

Lecithin-containing microemulsions for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, parenteral applications are known from the literature. Droplet sizes below 100 nm are achieved by high-pressure homogenization of appropriate macroemulsions. It is disadvantageous that high shear forces arise on the droplets and metal abrasion occurs which can only be removed with difficulty from the corresponding dosage forms. Furthermore, ultrasound can also be used to produce microemulsions. The disadvantage is that these methods are expensive because of the high energy input.

Sometimes disadvantageous with known O / V microemulsions containing no phospholipids is that they do not always have completely satisfactory care effects (skin moisturizing, skin roughness reduction, skin flaking reduction).

Furthermore, microemulsions with lecithin are obtained in the presence of a high concentration of short-chain alcohols, alkanediols, amines, which are not suitable for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, parenteral applications.

High pressure homogenization or ultrasound for the production of parenteral emulsions for cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications are described in the literature. Int. J. Pharm. 163, 1998, 81; J. Pharm. Belg. 52, 1997, 110; J. Pharm. 82, 1993, 1069; J. Pharm. 83, 1994, 72; Perfume and cosmetics 10, 1994, 652; 3, 1995, 152; Pharm. Res. 12, 1995, 1273; SÖFW 9, 1994, 530.

Phospholipid O / W microemulsions with cosolvents such as short-chain alcohols (propanol, butanol, ethanol, isopropanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol); Alkanediols, short-chain alkyl ethers or amines are described in the literature. Int. J. Pharm. 125, 1995, 107; Int. J. Pharm. 111, 1994, 63; Int. J. Pharm. 161, 1993, 161; Int. J. Pharm. 106, 1994, 51; Int. J. Pharm. 116, 1995, 253; Int. J. Pharm. 84, 1992, R5-R8; J. Phys. Chem. 95, 1991, 989, Langmuir 14, 1998, 3506; Langmuir 11, 1995, 1576; SÖFW 124, 1998, 614-623.

Phospholipid O / W microemulsions with surfactants are described in the literature.

Int. J. Pharm. 125, 1995, 231; Int. J. Pharm. 89, 1993, R9-R12. Low-viscosity microemulsions for oral applications based on lecithin / ethanol / propylene glycol are described in WO 92/02207. There, the thickening to the microemulsion gel with gelatin as a water-soluble polymer is also described. The disadvantage of cosmetic applications is the lack of a cosmetic oil phase.

The use of ethanol as an amphiphilic cosolvent for the production of lecithin-containing microemulsions and the gelation with polysaccharides such as gelatin or agar is also described in WO 95/31969.

Transparent oil-in-water emulsions containing lecithin thickened with gelatin are also described in FR 2618351. Transparency is achieved by aligning the refractive indices of water and oil phase. There is therefore no microemulsion here. EP 406162 B1 describes a method for producing a nanoemulsion with triglycerides or fatty acid esters. On page 2, lines 36-43 and on page 3 lines 18-28, it is emphasized that the emulsifier lecithin should have a lamellar liquid-crystalline structure, which is then processed with a high-pressure homogenizer to form the nanoemulsion. DE 3930928 C2 describes pharmaceutical formulations containing cyclosporin. In addition to cyclosporin, propylene glycol or glycofurol is advantageously used as the hydrophilic component as the microemulsion concentrate. On page 6 lines 7 to 12 it is stated that these concentrates represent OΛ / V or W / O macroemulsions. The gel state which can advantageously be run through and which is not to be regarded as a macroemulsion is not mentioned. Essentially ethoxylated emulsifiers are used in the examples, lecithin-containing formulations and the procedure in the preparation of the invention on which this application is based are not mentioned except for example 1.4. Furthermore, short-chain ethers such as Transcutol and Glycofurol are not very suitable for cosmetic purposes due to their penetration.

EP 0100448 and DE 3225706 describe phosphoipid-containing microemulsions consisting of an ethoxylated glycerol ester, phospholipid and an oil phase. Isopropyl palmitate, glyceryl triacetate or miglyols are used as the oil phase. The lipophilic phase is mixed with phospholipid and OΛ / V emulsifier and then diluted with water. There is no intermediate gel state. Ethanol or isopropanol is used as the short-chain alcohol. These ingredients are known as penetration accelerators and are therefore disadvantageous. EP 0760237 describes pharmaceutical preconcentrates which consist of mono-, di-, triglycerides as the oil phase, pharmaceutical active ingredient and one phospholipid and another

Emulsifier exist. Dilution of the concentrate in water gives OΛ / V-

Microemulsions. In particular, the recipes thus produced are intended to prevent the

Active ingredient cyclosporin is subsequently precipitated. The disadvantage is that only coconut oil,

Castor oil or arachis oil can be used as oil phases. There is no intermediate gel state.

WO 9709964 describes mixtures of phospholipids and hydrophilic surfactants which, in addition to the oil phase, contain a “surfactant film modifier”. This is preferably ethanol or a C-3 alcohol. On page 7, lines 1-4 it is stated that the mixtures used have to be equilibrated for two to three days, which can be regarded as a disadvantage. In the examples, only Miglyol 810 (short-chain

Triglyceride) and isopropyl myristate. The generation of the microemulsion via an intermediate gel state is not disclosed.

WO 97/30695 describes microemulsions for intravenous purposes.

Concentrates are first created that consist of phospholipids, propylene glycol (or

PEG), an emulsifier with a high HLB value, an active ingredient and 0-30% water. Triglycerides or propylene glycol diesters are used as oil components.

On page 6, lines 11-13, reference is made to the particularly advantageous propylene glycol to be used. This can also be partially or completely substituted by polyethylene glycol (p.10, lines 18-19). Alcohols such as ethanol are less suitable for intravenous purposes. On page 23 lines 23-25 and page 24 lines 4-5 it is explained how important propylene glycol is for the production of transparent preparations. Recipes without

Propylene glycol gives milky, opaque emulsions after dilution with water. The

The advantage of a gel state is not recognized.

EP 852941 describes nanodispersions which are formed by dissolving the phospholipid in ethanol and then adding an unsaturated ethoxylated sorbitan ester and an active ingredient (or oil phase).

It is disadvantageous that ethanol has to be used, which in particular leads to increased

Penetration into the skin can lead or partially or completely cancel the positive properties of the phospholipids, since ethanol has a drying effect. Furthermore, only

Triglycerides are solubilized using the method presented. The disadvantage is that only

Sorbitan esters, especially unsaturated ones, can be used, so after a lot effective antioxidants for product protection of the phospholipids which are already to be stabilized (if unsaturated ones are to be used) must be sought. The same disadvantages arise in WO 96/37192, in which sphingo- and glycolipids are solubilized.

EP 956851 describes nanodispersions that can be produced in two different ways. The first method relates to the mixing of a membrane-forming molecule (phospholipid), a co-emulsifier (ethoxylated) and a lipophilic component (oil phase or active ingredient), which are mixed until a homogeneous, clear solution is obtained (nanodispersion pre-phase). This preliminary phase is entered into a water phase without energy input (page 2, lines 35-50). On page 2, lines 51-52 it is stated that water is not necessary for the mixing of the phospholipid / co-emulsifier / oil phase mixture. The advantage of adding water and the consequent formation of a gel state (i.e. the advantageous formation of a mesophase) was not recognized. The second method differs from the first in that the pre-phase also contains propylene glycol or ethanol. In the examples for the production of nanodispersions, only triglycerides are used as the typical oil phase, which is a disadvantage. The addition of a lipophilic co-emulsifier, which makes it possible to dispense with ethanol, is not described.

DE 3225706 describes liquid active substance formulations in the form of concentrates for microemulsions. It is described that an O / W coemulsifier with an HLB value of 12-18 is used in addition to phospholipid. The gel state to be run through according to the invention in the production of the microemulsion is not described. The wide variability in the use of different oil phases, which result from the use of a W / O emulsifier or through the use of O / W emulsifiers other than those described, and the advantageous combination of an O / W emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier next to a phospholipid is not described. The disadvantages associated with the use of ethanol for microemulsions, such as skin drying, increased penetration, are not described.

DE 3302898 describes an emulsifying system which contains a fatty acid or a protein condensate, a polyethoxylated sterol and a phosphatide. On page 6, line 25 it is stated that emulsoids are understood to mean emulsions whose particle size is smaller than one micron. It is known to the person skilled in the art that there are finely divided emulsions (for example PIT emulsions) whose droplet size can be smaller than one micron. Furthermore, the gel formation described is not used to form an OΛ / V microemulsion. WO 9405298 describes "Submicron Emulsions" for eye applications. The droplet size is reduced by homogenizing a coarse emulsion in one

Pressure of 8000 psi and subsequent filtration (p. 14, lines 18-24). The disadvantage is that high-pressure homogenization cannot be dispensed with here.

Furthermore, microemulsions with cationic ingredients are known, which as

Conditioning agents make hair easier to style. The disadvantage here is that

Use of cationic additives.

Lecithin organogels are described in the literature. Colloid Polymer Science 268,

1990, 356; Colloid J. 58, 1996, 117; Colloid polym. Be. 268, 1990, 356; Int. J. Pharm. 137,

1996, 117; J. Phys. Chem. 92, 1988, 829; J. Pharm Sei. 81, 1992, 871; J. Contr. Rel. 34,

1995, 53; Proced. Intern. Symp. Control. Rel. Bioact. Mater. 17, 1990, 421; Progr. Colloid Polym. Be. 105, 1997, 204; Progr. Colloid Polym. Be. 106, 1997, 228; Skin. Pharmacol. 9

1996, 124.

These emulsifier-free organogels are obtained by adding small amounts of water to a mixture of organic solvent and lecithin. In the process, inverse micelles form water-like micelles (“wormlike micelles” that twist with one another and thus explain the high viscosity of these mixtures. (Colloid Polym. Sei. 268, 1990, 356).

Strictly speaking, these lecithin gels are not microemulsion gels, since the dispersed phase is not in droplet form and, moreover, a corresponding viscosity-increasing substance for the continuous phase is missing. Furthermore, it is not described that these prior art gels can also be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. Furthermore, it is not described that these gels can also be obtained in the presence of an OΛΛ / emulsifier or a W / O emulsifier. Furthermore, it is not described that the prior art gels can be converted into other colloid chemical phases in the presence of water, e.g. O / W microemulsions and O / W macroemulsions. It is not described that gel-like preparations can be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, which can be converted into low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions by dilution with water. It is not described that gel-like preparations can be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier or a W / O emulsifier, which can be converted into low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / V microemulsions by dilution with water.

The object of the invention was to avoid the disadvantages mentioned. This object is achieved according to the invention.

The invention relates to gels or low-viscosity transparent or translucent microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase, which are essentially composed of non-volatile constituents, comprising:

At least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier, obtainable in such a way that the water phase with its constituents becomes the oil phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid and the Oid / V emulsifier and optionally added to the W / O emulsifier, the phases being mixed together and a gel state being obtained, and if a low-viscosity O / W microemulsion is desired, further parts of the water phase are added and the phases are mixed, the phases if desired, may contain further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.

The invention also relates to a process for the preparation of gels or low-viscosity transparent or translucent microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase which is composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, containing at least one phospholipid and at least one oil in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier, characterized in that a phospholipid is dissolved in the oil phase, optionally with further constituents, and the water phase, optionally with further constituents, is added and the phases are mixed, with each other there is an increase in viscosity and e.g. the gels are obtained, and the microemulsions result upon further addition of the water phase, the oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier being able to be added to the oil phase or being added at the stage of gel formation or after the gel has been prepared .

The water phase is expediently metered or added dropwise to the oil phase, for example stirring in, until there is an increase in viscosity or a gel forms, and the remaining water phase is then metered in. The lecithin is advantageously dissolved in the oil phase (possibly in the heat). However, it is also possible to dissolve the lecithin in the oil at room temperature. The O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier can be added directly to the oil phase or only at the stage of gel formation or after the lecithin has been prepared. Organogels (phospholide / organic solvent / water). The water phase can be added at room temperature or, if appropriate, at elevated temperature.

The components are preferably mixed by stirring, if appropriate at elevated temperature. In particular, an energy input, e.g. by homogenizing, i.e. to be dispensed with.

“Lecithin” in the description also means, for example, the phospholipids, which include, for example, the following substances: phosphatidic acids, the actual lecithins, cardolipins, lysophospholipids, lysolecithins, plasmalogens, phosphosphingolipids, sphingomyelines. Preferred substances are described below.

Phosphatidic acids are glycerol derivatives which are esterified in the 1-sn and 2-position with fatty acids (1-sn position: mostly saturated, 2-position: mostly mono- or polyunsaturated), on the other hand with atom 3-sn with phosphoric acid and by the general structural formula

O II

CH ₂ - 0- -C— R-,

R - O - C - H

O

CH ₂ - O- -P- OH

OH marked.

In the phosphatidic acids found in human or animal tissue, the phosphate residue is mostly esterified with amino alcohols such as choline (lecithin = 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine) or 2-aminoethanol (ethanolamine) or L-serine (cephalin = 3-sn-phosphatidylethanolamine or sn -Phosphatidyl-L-serine), with myo-inositol to the phosphoinositides common in tissues [1- (3-sn-phosphatidyl) -D-myo-inositol], with glycerin to phosphatidylglycerols. Lecithins (= 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine) are particularly preferred.

Lecithins (or the actual lecithins) are, for example, also due to the general structural formula characterized, wherein R and R ^{2 are} typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Cardiolipins (1,3-bisphosphatidylglycerols) are phospholipids made from two phosphatidic acids linked via glycerol.

Lysophospholipids are obtained when an acyl residue is split off from phospholipids by phospholipase A (e.g. lysolecithins).

Lysophospholipids are characterized by the general structural formula

OII CH ₂ - O- C- -R

HO - C - H O I I I

CH ₂ - O— P— OH

OH

Lysolecithins, for example, are characterized by the general structural formula

where R and R ^{2 are} typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Preferred phospholipids are phosphatidyl choiine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol or N-acylphosphatidylethanolamine or mixtures of two or more of these compounds. The phospholipids also include plasmalogens in which an aldehyde (in the form of an enol ether) is bound in the 1 position instead of a fatty acid; the 0-1 -sn-alkenyl verb corresponding to the phosphatidylcholines. B. are called phosphatidal cholines.

The basic structure of the phosphosphingolipids is based on sphingosine or phytosphingosin, which are characterized by the following structural formulas:

(Sphingosine) (phytosphingosine)

Modifications of sphingolipids are characterized, for example, by the general basic structure

in which R and R ₃ independently of one another represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, R _{2 is} selected from the group: hydrogen atom, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, sugar radicals, with organic radicals esterified or unesterified phosphate groups, with organic radicals esterified or unesterified sulfate groups and Y represents either a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or another hetero-functional radical. Sphingophospholipids:

R and R ₃ represent alkyl radicals, R ₄ represents an organyl radical.

Sphingomyeline are organylphosphorylated sphingolipids of the type

Lecithins are particularly preferred phospholipids. Lecithin types to be used advantageously are selected from crude lecithins which have been deoiled and / or fractionated and / or spray dried and / or acetylated and / or hydrolyzed and / or hydrogenated. They are commercially available. Soy lecithins are preferred.

Phospholipids to be used advantageously according to the invention can be purchased, for example, under the trade names Phospholipon 25 (Nattermann), Emulmetik 120 (Lucas Meyer), Sternpur E (Stern), Sternpur PM (Stern), Nathin 3KE (Stern), Phospholipon 90 (Rhόne-Poulenc ), Phosopholipon 90 H (Rhône-Poulenc).

In the presence of the OΛ / V emulsifier, new types of gels, in which other colloid chemical phases are also present, can form than in the "pure" lecithin organogels known in the literature, such as lamellar liquid crystals, cubic phases, bicontinuous microemulsion gels, OΛ / V microemulsion gels, inverse hexagonal phases, hexagonal phases, inverse micellar phases, WO microemulsion gels.

All of these are characterized by an increase in viscosity, e.g. Creamy preparations are referred to here as "gels". If the water phase is further added to the gel, the

Viscosity decreases and a low-viscosity O / W microemulsion forms.

The preferred intermediate gel formation according to the invention (i.e. the corresponding colloid chemical phase) and its targeted degradation by dilution with water (i.e. the

Conversion of the colloidal phase into another) enables the production of fine particles

O / W microemulsions. In this way it becomes possible for the first time to

Use emulsifiers. Furthermore, the higher variability in the selection of O / W

Emulsifiers a wider variety of cosmetic oil phases. The addition of W / O

Emulsifiers are advantageous if stability problems occur or active ingredients are difficult to solubilize. Furthermore, it can be dispensed with ethanol, so that the skin drying out or excessive penetration-promoting disadvantages of

Administration system of the prior art can be avoided.

In this way it is easier to incorporate a large number of materials, which differ, for example, in their polarity or their hydrophilicity / lipophilicity, into O / W microemulsions.

Suitable O / W emulsifiers are described below.

Ethoxylated fatty acid esters and fatty acid glycerides, in particular PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides

Polyglycerol esters, especially polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate

Ethoxylated glycerol esters, in particular PEG-20 glyceryl laurate PEG-20 glyceryl steart

Fatty acid ethoxylates, especially PEG-20 monostearate Fatty alcohol ethoxylates, in particular

Ceteareth-12

Oleth- 15

Alkyl ether sulfates, ether carboxylates, in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate

Sulphated glycerol esters, in particular Na glyceryl cocoyl sulphates, ammonium glyceryl cocoyl sulphate

Acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, in particular Na lauroyl lactylate

Sorbitan esters or their derivatives, e.g.

Ethoxylated sorbitan esters, in particular

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate

PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate can optionally be used.

The following O / W emulsifiers are preferred.

The polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier or the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier, which can be chosen from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-0- (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0 -) "- H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 50 of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 40, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) “-R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 10 to 80 represent the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50, the ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 100 of the cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50, the ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 150, the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O -) "- CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 - 30 C atoms and n one Represent the number from 10 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester, based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100, for example of the sorbeth type, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 50. the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 10 to 80 represent the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 80 of the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the cholesterol propoxylates with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the propoxylated triglycerides with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) 0-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 3 to 50 represent, the alkyl ether sulfates or the underlying acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0 -) "- S0 ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 - 30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 1 to 50, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-0-X _n -Y _m -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Represent alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another represent numbers from 5 to 50, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

R-0-X _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another Represent numbers from 5 to 100, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n N _m -R ', where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each have either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another represent numbers from 5 to 100, the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-Xn-Y _m -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers from 5 to 50.

- Diacetyl tartaric acid esters of mono / diglycerides

The partially neutralized ester of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with alpha-hydroxy acids,

Are suitable

Glycerol esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids, selected from the group consisting of the generic formula

X Y Z

I I I

H - C - C - C - H I I

H H H is represented

where X, Y and Z are independently selected from the group

(1) OH,

(2) from the group of saturated branched and unbranched carboxylic acid residues according to the formula

- O— C— R-,

II

⁰ (formula 2), where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 10-24 carbon atoms and

(3) from the group of α-hydroxycarboxylic acid residues according to the formula R-

R ₂ - C - COO -

I.

^0H (Formula 3)

(a) where R ₂ and R _{3 are} independently selected from the group

(a1) H-,

(a2) branched or unbranched C ₂ s alkyl,

(a3) with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or aldehyde groups and or oxo groups (keto groups) substituted branched or unbranched Cι. ₂ s-alkyl or

(b) wherein the α-carbon atom of the α-hydroxycarboxylic acid together with R ₂ and R _{3 is} one

(b1) unsubstituted cycloalkyl group with 3 to 7 ring atoms or one

(b2) with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and / or oxo groups (keto groups) and / or branched and / or unbranched Cι _-2 5-alkyl groups substituted cycloalkyl group with 3 to 7 ring atoms, and wherein of the radicals X , Y and Z only one a radical according to formula 3, only one a

The rest according to formula 2 and only one may represent an OH group.

The glycerol esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids in the context of the present invention are particularly advantageously selected from the group in which the α-hydroxycarboxylic acid residue is a lactic acid residue

COO

HIGH

CH ₃ or a citric acid residue

CH ₂ -COO CH ₂ -COOH

HO-C-COOH HO-C-COO

CH ₂ —COOH CH ₂ —COOH or represents.

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid residue so that R 1 is a C ₃ -C ₉ -alkyl radical.

Lactic acid esters of this type are available, for example, under the product name “LACTODAN B30” from Grindsted Prods.

Such citric acid esters are available, for example, under the product name "IMWITOR 370" from Hüls AG.

- Water dispersible W / O emulsifiers

- Acyl lactylates of the formula

RC (0) 0-CH (CH ₃ ) -C (0) 0-CH (CH ₃ ) C0 ₂ ^' M \ where R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid with 6 to 26 carbon atoms represents.

the acylglutamates of the formula

RC (0) NHCH (COO ^' , M ⁺ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ C00 ^" M ⁺ , where R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid with 6 to 26 carbon atoms.

the acyl sarcosinates of the formula

RC (0) -N (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ C00 ^" M \ where R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid having 6 to 26 carbon atoms.

the isethionates of the formula

RC (0) -0-CH ₂ CH ₂ -S0 ₃ ^" M ⁺ , where R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid having 6 to 26 carbon atoms.

the sulfosucinates of the formula

M ⁺ , OC (0) -CH ₂ -CH (S0 ₃ -M +) - C (0) -0-R, where R is a saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acid with 6 to 26 carbon atoms represents.

the alaninates of the formula CH ₃ CH ₂ N (CH ₃ ) (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ ) C (0) 0- M ⁺

the amphoacetates of the formula RC (0) -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ -N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) -CH ₂ COO-; M ⁺ alkyl glycosides, alkyl polyglycosides, esters of hydroxy acids

The following are particularly preferred:

PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides, polyglycerin-10 stearate, polyglycerin-10 laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 monostearate, ceteareth-12, oleth-15, Na -lauryl ether sulfate, sodium glyceryl cocoyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate, diacetyl tartaric acid mono / dilinoleate, glyceryl sodium linolate ether, glyceryl linoleate ether 30% Polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides, lauryl glycoside, C12-C13 alkyl malic acid ester, C12-13 tartaric acid ester.

However, it is also possible not to use sorbitan esters or sorbitan ester derivatives in the preparations according to the invention.

The oils and fats customary in cosmetics can be used as the oil phase.

The process according to the invention enables the production of finely divided microemulsions (the droplet size is approximately 10-100 nm) with a large number of typical oil phases: e.g. Ether (dicaprylyl ether), triglycerides (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), alcohols (octyldodecanol), ester oils (cetearyl isonoanoate), hydrocarbons (dioctylcyclohexane), paraffins, silicone oils (cyclomethicone) or mixtures of these oil phases.

If appropriate, in particular the oil phase of the preparations can also contain sphingolipids and / or glycolipids of synthetic or natural origin, in particular ceramides, sphingomyelins, cerebrosides and / or gangliosides.

The proportion of these lipids can e.g. 0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0 - 2, in particular 0 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

Furthermore, the method presented opens up the possibility of also using the viscosity-increased conditions described above, such as gels, as a delivery system. For example, these gels can be applied by the consumer as a hair gel. Depending on the O / W emulsifier and oil phase used, the dilution of these gels then leads to OΛΛ / micro or OΛ / V macro emulsions on the scalp. Furthermore, shower oils (foaming, not foaming) can be applied topically using gel phases according to the invention. The shower water transfers the gel on the skin into a water-continuous micro or macro emulsion. The added phospholipid and other ingredients of the preparation remain on the skin (moisturizing).

Furthermore, these gels can advantageously be used to remove skin impurities. The gels have the advantageous property of solubilizing lipid-soluble impurities on the skin. These facial / body cleansing gels can then be diluted with water by the user, the sebum being solubilized in the oil droplets, so that deep-cleansing of the skin is made possible. At the same time, part of the phospholipid remains on the skin and thus increases the moisture content.

The following weight percentages, each based on the total weight of the preparations, are preferred for the gels:

Lecithin: 0.1 - 50%

O / V emulsifier: 0.1-70%

Oil phase: 5 - 90%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-35% water 0.1-75% water

Lecithin: 0.1 - 40%

O / V emulsifier: 0.1-70%

W / O emulsifier. 01.-50%

Oil phase: 5 - 90%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-35% water 0.1-75% water For the microemulsions according to the invention, the following amounts by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations, are preferred:

Lecithin: 0.01 - 10%, especially 0.1 - 5.0%

O / V emulsifier: 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%

Oil phase: 0.01 - 50%, especially 0.1 - 30%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60% water: 40-99%

Lecithin: 0.01 - 10%, especially 0.1 - 5.0%

O / V emulsifier: 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%

W / O emulsifier: 0.01-10%, especially 0.1-5.0%

Oil phase: 0.01 - 50%, especially 0.1 - 30%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60% water 40-99%

Additives can also be auxiliary substances or active substances.

The weight ratio of lecithin / OΛ / V emulsifier in the preparations according to the invention can vary, e.g. from 1:30 to 2: 1. The ratio of lecithin / OW emulsifier is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1. The ratio of lecithin / OW emulsifier: 6 to 1: 1.5 is particularly preferred.

The gels and microemulsions according to the invention can optionally also contain one or more water-in-oil emulsifiers.

The W / O emulsifiers are particularly advantageous when, for example, in the

Microemulsions active ingredients to be solubilized that only in the presence of the OΛ / V-

Emulsifier and lecithin tend to instability in storage.

Emulsifiers with an HLB value in the range of 1-10 are preferred.

The following W / O emulsifiers are preferably used: one or more polyethoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or Gators one or more Monoester, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W / O-Emul ^¬ and / or one or more monoethers of polyols and esters thereof as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more sorbitan esters as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more silicone emulsifiers as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W / O emulsifiers and / or one or more methyl glucose esters as W / O emulsifiers,

this W / O emulsifier being selected from the group of

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 10

the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30

the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-C00 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) "-H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 20,

the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of Represent 1 to 20,

the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n one Represent a number from 1 to 40,

the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) “-R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 40 len of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 30,

the polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10

cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,

the ethoxylated glycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 30

the ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 30,

the monoglycerol ether of the type R-0-CH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OH where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and

the monoglycerol ester of the type RC (0) OCH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OH where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical

the diglycerol ester of the type RC (0) OCH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OC (0) R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30 or represent

polyglycerol mono- or di- or polyester, where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,

the pentaerythritol ester, the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,

the propylene glycol ester, the fatty acids independently representing branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues, the sorbitan ester, where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,

the fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH, where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical,

of silicone emulsifiers

the methyl glucose ester, the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals, fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Diglycerin ethers where the fatty acids independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl-hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues. Sucrosesters where the fatty acids independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monistearate,

Glyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, cetyl alcohol, archidyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, glycceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocethylene glycol, polyceryl mono ethylene glycol (4) Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan trioleate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan trisostearate, polyethylene glycol (5) phytosterol, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl tristearate, polyethylene glycol (5) glyceryl stearate, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, polyglyceryldearyl dipolycopolyethyl-2-dipolyhydroxy-ethyl-dipoly-hydroxyl-hydroxyl-copolyhydroxy-2-dipoly-hydroxyl-hydroxy-3-polyglycerol-dipoly- , Isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid.

The weight ratio of lecithin / (OW emulsifier and W / O emulsifier) in the preparations according to the invention can vary, e.g. from 1:30 to 2: 1. The ratio of lecithin / (OΛΛ emulsifier and W / O emulsifier) is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1. The ratio of lecithin / OΛ / V emulsifier and W / O emulsifier is particularly preferably 1: 6 to 1: 1.5.

The gels or microemulsions according to the invention can have high oil phase fractions. They can be used in particular for the treatment of skin roughness and for smoothing the skin and they cause an increase in skin moisture. The preparations described below can be gels or microemulsions according to the invention.

The gels or microemulsions according to the invention can be used as delivery systems for e.g. cosmetic or e.g. dermatological active ingredients, additives, or auxiliaries are used. They are preferably applied topically.

The gels according to the invention can be used as a delivery system (make-up remover, hair gel, facial cleansing gel, body care gel). The gels according to the invention can be converted into other colloid chemical phases in the presence of water, e.g. O / V microemulsions and O / W macroemulsions. In the presence of an O / W emulsifier and optionally a W / O emulsifier, gel-like preparations can be obtained which can be converted into low-viscosity, lecithin-containing O / W microemulsions by dilution with water.

If the gels and microemulsions according to the invention form the basis for cosmetic deodorants / antiperspirants, all common active ingredients can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite, savonite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the microemulsions according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichlo ^ -2 ^, - hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary Ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11.trimethy.-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those in the patent publication DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 described active agents.

The customary antiperspirant active ingredients can likewise be used advantageously in the microemulsions according to the invention, in particular astringents, for example basic aluminum chlorides. The amount of the deodorant active ingredients and / or antiperspirant active ingredients can be, for example, 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 35% by weight, in each case based on the total face of the preparation.

The cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can be in the form of aerosols, that is to say from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations which can be sprayed by a pump device, or in the form of liquid compositions which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, but also in the form of microemulsions which can be applied from normal bottles and containers.

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic deodorants according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the present invention, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with, in particular chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), because of their harmful effects on the environment or other associated circumstances.

In addition, it has surprisingly been found that when blowing agents which are soluble in the oil phase, for example conventional propane-butane mixtures, are used, the OΛΛ / microemulsions according to the invention are not simply sprayed as aerosol droplets, but instead become fine-bubble, rich Develop foams as soon as such systems loaded with such blowing agents experience pressure relief.

Such post-foaming preparations are therefore also regarded as advantageous embodiments of the present invention with independent inventive activity.

If blowing agents which are insoluble in the oil phase are used, the O / W microemulsions according to the invention are sprayed as aerosol droplets. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active compound combinations according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their

Salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

An astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, advantageous active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only active ingredient class, for example when a cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also favorable to provide the microemulsions according to the invention with a content of one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, for example as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of

Amino acids (eg histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-camosin, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl -, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters , Ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptahioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), further (metal ) Chelator s (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, α-hydroxypalmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg-ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E-acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A - palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resinic acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives (eg zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, eg its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stiibenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans- Stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic preparations are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

If desired, the water phase of the OΛV microemulsions according to the invention can also contain thickeners, so that the overall preparation appears gel-like and is to be regarded as a microemulsion gel. Carragheenan or PEG-4-Rapeseedamide and Laureth-2 amide MEA, for example, have proven to be suitable thickeners.

According to the invention, active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap the vitamin Bi, the vitamin Bι ₂ the vitamin D _{1 t} but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), especially gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and their derivatives , Chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds.

Although the use of hydrophilic active substances is of course also favored according to the invention, a further advantage of the microemulsions according to the invention is that the high number of finely divided droplets makes oil-soluble or lipophilic active substances, in particular, highly biologically available.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit® and Neocerit.

It is also possible and possibly advantageous to add detergent surfactants to the preparations according to the invention. Aqueous cosmetic detergents according to the invention or low-water or anhydrous detergent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, e.g. Fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates, amidosulfobetanes, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid half-esters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkylbetaethanols, and polyglycol amides, fatty acid amide glycol amides, polyglycol alcohols, and amideglycol alcohols.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or semi-solid form, for example as gels or microemulsions. They preferably contain at least one anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts, for example, are advantageous to use.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the preparations according to the invention intended for cleaning the hair or skin contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, moisturizing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents , Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

In spite of their oil content, the preparations according to the invention surprisingly have very good foaming, high cleansing power and have a highly regenerative effect on the general skin condition. In particular, the preparations according to the invention have a skin-smoothing effect, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.

According to the invention it is e.g. possible to apply a mixture of lecithin / PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate / octyldocecanol / glycerin to the hair, so that, for example, a stay-in conditioner product is created. The products can also be provided with propellant gas and applied as a foam to the hair (or to the skin). According to the invention, it is also possible to apply a mixture of lecithin / PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate / caprylic / capric triglyceride / glycerol topically and to achieve significant skin moisturization, skin smoothing and a reduction in the flaky skin. In particular, it is also advantageous to use octyldodecanol or cetearyl isonanoate or diocyticyclohexane instead of the triglyceride as the oil phase and to achieve the advantages described for the triglyceride.

If the gels or microemulsions according to the invention are to be used for hair care, they can contain the usual constituents, usually for example film-forming polymers. Such polymers with at least partially quaternized nitrogen groups (hereinafter referred to as "film formers") are preferably those which are selected from the group of substances which, according to the INCI nomenclature (international nomenclature cosmetic ingredient), bear the name "polyquaternium", for example:

Polyquaternium-2 (Chemical Abstracts No. 63451-27-4, e.g. Mirapol® A-15) Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of the acrylamide and the ß-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, CAS No. 26006-22-4)

Polyquaternium-6 (homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, CAS No. 26062-79-3, e.g. Merquat® 100

Polyquaternium-7 N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS no. 26590-05-6, e.g. Merquat® S

Polyquaternium-10 quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, CAS no. 53568-66-4, 55353-19-0, 54351-50-7, 68610-92-4, 81859-24-7, e.g. Celquat® SC-230M,

Polyquaternium-11 vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer / diethyl sulfate reaction product, CAS no. 53633-54-8, e.g. Gafquat® 755N

Polyquatemium-16 vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolinium methochloride copolymer, CAS no. 29297-55-0, e.g. Luviquat® HM 552

Polyquaternium-17 CAS-No. 90624-75-2, e.g. Mirapol® AD-1 polyquaternium-19 quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol polyquaternium-20 water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether polyquaternium-21 polysiloxane-polydimethyl-dimethylammonium acetate copolymer, e.g. Abil® B 9905

Polyquatemium-22 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, CAS no.

53694-7-0, e.g. Merquat® 280

Polyquaternium-24 polymer quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, reaction product with an epoxy substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, CAS no. 107987-23-5, e.g. Quatrisoft® LM-200

Polyquaternium-28 vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, e.g. Gafquat® HS-100

Polyquatemium-29 e.g. Lexquat® CH Polyquaternium-31 CAS no. 136505-02-7, e.g. Hypan® QT 100 polyquatemium-32 N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -ethanaminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide , CAS no. 35429-19-7 Polyquaternium-37 CAS-No. 26161-33-1 cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts such as CTAB, CTAC.

Preparations according to the invention for hair care advantageously contain 0.01-5% by weight of one or more film formers, preferably 0.1-3% by weight, in particular 0.2-2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. Such embodiments of the preparations according to the invention care for hair damaged or damaged by environmental influences or prevent such environmental influences. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention give the hairstyle loose fullness and firmness without being tacky.

Accordingly, the preparations according to the invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as a skin protection emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient lotion, day or night emulsion, etc.

The microemulsions according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, in particular if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin.

It may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations. The transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. According to the invention, all classes of active substances are in principle geeginet as pharmaceutical active substances, lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, etc.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers , softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used particularly advantageously.

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the weight of the preparations or the respective mixture.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Phospholipon 90 (Rhönen-Poulenc, FR) is used as lecithin in the following examples.

Instead of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters, it is also possible, for example, to use PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate with the same success.

example 1

Facial toner

% By weight

Lecithin 0.5%

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 2.5%

Glycerin isostearate 0.5%

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OAΛ / microemulsion is formed.

Example 2

Facial toner

% By weight

Lecithin 0.5%

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 2.5%

Sorbitan isostearate 0.5%

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed. Example 3

Facial toner

% By weight

Lecithin 0.5%

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 2.5%

Steareth-2 0.5%

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.

Example 4

Facial toner

% By weight

Lecithin 1.0%

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 2.5%

Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 3.0%

Sodium hydroxide solution 1.0%

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000 The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed.

Example 5

Facial toner

% By weight

Lecithin 0.5%

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 2.5%

Glycerin isostearate 0.5%

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 2,500

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed.

Example 6

Facial toner

% By weight

Lecithin 1,800

PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 5,200

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

Example 7

Anti acne lotion

Wt% lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed. Example 8

Hair tonic

Wt% lecithin 3,000

Oleth-15 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / V microemulsion is formed.

Example 9

Body lotion

% By weight

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed. Example 10

Basis for shaving cream

Wt% lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed.

Example 11

Aftershave lotion

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl 10 stearate 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed. Example 12

Facial cleansing water

Wt% lecithin 2,000

Decaglyceryl monolaurate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

Example 13

Shower oil, low foaming

Wt% lecithin 3,500

PEG-20 glyceryl laurate 3,500

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed. Example 14

Pump atomizer wt%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 monostearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture cools, an O / V microemulsion is formed.

Example 15

Transparent cleaning emulsion against oily skin

Wt% lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 glyceryl stearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed. Example 16

Refreshing preshave lotion wt .-%

Lecithin 4,000

Ceteareth-12 3,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase continues to drop and the mixture cools, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed.

Example 17

Make-up remover

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed. Example 18

Basis for solubilizing perfume fragrances (perfume atomizers)

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

Example 19

Basis for the treatment of the scalp

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed. Example 20

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl 10 stearates 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

Example 21 Deodorant / AT Pump Sprayer

% By weight lecithin 1,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 2,500

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 2,500

Aluminum chlorohydrates 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛN microemulsion is formed. Example 22

Wt% lecithin 2,000

Oleth-15 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase continues to drop and the mixture cools, an O / W microemulsion is formed.

Example 23

% By weight

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / V microemulsion is formed. Example 24

% By weight

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

Example 25

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed. Example 26

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

Example 27

Wt% lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 5,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an O / W microemulsion is formed. Example 28 Shower oil

Wt% lecithin 0.250

Lauryl ether sulfate (25%) 40,000

Glyceryl monolinoleate 0.250

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 3,000

Sodium chloride 7,500

Water ad

100,000

The oil phase and part of the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. If the water phase is added dropwise and the mixture is cooled, an OΛΛ / microemulsion is formed.

Example 29

Facial cleansing gel

% By weight

Lecithin 6,660

PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 19,260

Glycerin 18,520

Dicaprylyl ether 18,520

Water 37,040

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. Example 30

Facial cleansing gel

% By weight

Lecithin 6,660

PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 19,260

Glycerin 18,520

Dicaprylyl ether 18,520

Water 37,040

The oil phase and the water phase are separately heated to 70 - 75 ° C. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms.

Example 31

Eye makeup remover gel

% By weight

Lecithin 3,700

Polyglyceryl IO stearates 22,200

Glycerin 18,500

Dioctylcyclohexane 18,500

Water 37,010

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. Example 32

Hair gel

% By weight

Lecithin 11,100

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 14,800

Glycerin 18,500

Dicaprylyl ether 18,500

Water 37,100

Example 33 Shower gel

% Lecithin 0.870

Lauryl ether sulfate (25%) 69,600

Glycerin 8,600

Dicaprylyl ether 8,700

Sodium chloride 12,230

The oil phase and the water phase are heated separately to 70 - 75 ° C each. The water phase is dropped into the oil phase and a gel forms. Example 34 Gel

% By weight

Lecithin 2,000

Polyglycerol-10 stearate 24,000

Glycerin isostearate 2,000

Glycerin 20,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 20,000

Water 32,000

Claims

Claims:

1. Gels or low-viscosity transparent or translucent microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase, which are essentially composed of non-volatile constituents, comprising: at least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier, obtainable in such a way that the water phase with its components is added to the oil phase with its components, in particular the phospholipid and the O / W emulsifier and optionally W / O emulsifier, the phases being mixed together and a gel state is obtained, and if a low-viscosity O / V microemulsion is desired, further parts of the water phase are added and the phases are mixed, the phases optionally being able to contain further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.

2. A process for the preparation of gels or low-viscosity transparent or translucent microemulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase which is composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, containing at least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier, characterized in that a phospholipid is dissolved in the oil phase, optionally with further constituents, and the water phase, optionally with further constituents, is added and the phases are mixed, resulting in an increase in viscosity and, for example the gels are obtained, and when the water phase is added, the microemulsions result, the oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier being able to be added to the oil phase or added at the gel formation stage or after the gel has been prepared can be.

3. Gels according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they are used as hair gel, shower gel or skin gel.

4. gels or microemulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain deodorants or antiperspirants.

5. gels or microemulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain a UVA and / or UVB filter substance.

6. gels or microemulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain antioxidants.

7. gels or microemulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they are used as cosmetic cleaning preparations.

8. gels or microemulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they are used for Haaφflege.

9. gels or microemulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain active ingredients, additives or auxiliaries.