EP1088926A2 - Procédé pour la fabrication des vêtements du type shibori - Google Patents

Procédé pour la fabrication des vêtements du type shibori Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1088926A2
EP1088926A2 EP00120648A EP00120648A EP1088926A2 EP 1088926 A2 EP1088926 A2 EP 1088926A2 EP 00120648 A EP00120648 A EP 00120648A EP 00120648 A EP00120648 A EP 00120648A EP 1088926 A2 EP1088926 A2 EP 1088926A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
shibori
cloth
clothes
setting process
binding
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00120648A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1088926A3 (fr
Inventor
Tsuyoshi Kuno
Hideo Saito
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Aramido Corp
Original Assignee
Aramido Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from PCT/JP1999/005326 external-priority patent/WO2001022841A1/fr
Application filed by Aramido Corp filed Critical Aramido Corp
Publication of EP1088926A2 publication Critical patent/EP1088926A2/fr
Publication of EP1088926A3 publication Critical patent/EP1088926A3/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0073—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing of articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping

Definitions

  • the present invention concerns a shibori clothes manufacturing method, with which crimps are formed in a cloth by application of the binding technique of "shibori dyeing" (tie-dyeing), which is a traditional Japanese dyeing method, shibori clothes made by this manufacturing method, and a dyeing method favorable for the manufacturing method.
  • shibori dyeing titanium-dyeing
  • shibori dyeing There is a traditional Japanese dyeing technique called the "shibori dyeing” method, which is used to dye kimonos. With this technique, dyeing is performed after forming relief-like shapes called “shibo” (crimps) by pinching and binding the cloth with thread or other suitable method to prevent the entry of dye solution at parts of the cloth. Representative examples include kanoko (dappled) shibori, Arimatsu shibori, etc.
  • Fig. 10 schematically shows the "shibori (binding) process" of such "shibori dyeing” techniques and this process is characterized in binding the cloth prior to the dyeing process.
  • shibori (bound) shapes can be formed intentionally using the above-described binding technique in the "shibori dyeing" techniques, it may become possible to provide clothes which have various forms of crimps (gathers) that exhibit new types of handling and draping qualities and with which the stretchability of the crimped portions provide woven clothes with body fitting qualities similar to those of knitted clothes.
  • the objects of the present invention are therefore to (1) provide methods of manufacturing shibori clothes of the desired form and hue in a secure and stable manner by application of the above-described "shibori” techniques of “shibori dyeing” and taking measures to intentionally leave the relief-like shapes called “shibo” (crimps) in the clothes, which are the final products, (2) to apply a dyeing method that can effectively prevent migration and sublimation to shibori techniques, and (3) to provide new types of shibori clothes with unique forms, stretchability, handling and draping qualities, comfort when worn, etc.
  • the shibori clothes manufacturing method of the first claim of this invention is comprised of at least
  • crimps can be formed and maintained in the clothes, which are the final products, by the shibori shapes formed in the "shibori (binding) process.”
  • shibori refers to the forming of crimped, relief-like shapes on cloth by a suitable method.
  • shibori binding
  • shibori methods such as pinching the cloth partially so as to form a peak and then binding the base part of the peak with thread, etc. can be applied.
  • this shibori method numerous, peak-shaped, relief-like crimps with relatively large differences in level can be formed on the cloth.
  • the "shibori (binding) process" of the first claim is performed by pleating and then crimping (gathering) the cloth using a sewing needle.
  • the "shibori (binding) process" of the first or second claim is performed by forming the bound portions successively in progression not in an oblique direction of the abovementioned cloth but in the left-right direction of the cloth.
  • a cloth comprised of cation-dyeable polyester, which has been print-dyed or immersion-dyed with a dispersion-type cationic dye, is used to perform dyeing.
  • Cion-dyeable polyester refers to polyester that can be dyed readily with a cationic dye and is generally distinguished from polyester that can be dyed readily with regular dye.
  • Print dyeing process refers to the method of dyeing patterns on the cloth using a screen, etc.
  • immersion dyeing process refers to the method of dyeing the cloth by immersion of the cloth itself in a dyeing solution at a prescribed temperature.
  • the cloth made of cation-dyeable polyester of the fourth claim is sewn and the "shibori (binding) process" of any of the first to third claims is performed on this sewn cloth.
  • the "setting process” is comprised only of the “steam setting process.”
  • the "setting process” for maintaining the shibori (bound) shapes is performed by successively performing the respective processes of solution immersion, drying, and steam setting.
  • the "setting process” for maintaining the shibori (bound) shapes is performed by successively performing the respective processes of solution immersion, water rinsing, neutralization, and drying.
  • shibori clothes which do not become starchy and have soft handling and draping qualities, can be made even when cloths formed from various natural textile materials are used.
  • the shibori clothes of the ninth claim are made by a shibori clothes manufacturing method as set forth in any of the first, second, third, fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth claims, the shibori clothes will be clothes with which numerous crimps, formed by partially binding numerous portions of a dyed and sewn cloth, are maintained on the cloth.
  • desired forms of crimp can be formed without fail in a stable manner on clothes, which are the final products, by subjecting the cloth with shibori shapes formed in the "shibori (binding) process" to the prescribed "setting process.”
  • crimps of distinctive forms can be formed on clothes to enable the diversification of products.
  • shibori clothing can be manufactured that stretch and shrink uniformly in the vertical and left-right directions and are thus comfortable to wear.
  • shibori clothes which have soft handling and draping qualities and are not starchy, can be made without fail even from cloth made of wool, cotton or hemp.
  • the shibori clothes made by the shibori clothes manufacturing methods of this invention have the desired shapes and coloration as well as unique forms, stretchability, handling and draping qualities, comfort when worn, etc., they are of extremely high commercial value.
  • This sewn cloth 2 must be formed to be of a considerably large size in view that the final product obtained from this manufacturing process will be a shibori clothing 4 having numerous crimps (shibori) 5.
  • a portion of the sewn cloth 2 is then pinched and raised in peak-like form, and using the method of tying and strongly binding the base portion of this peak with a thread to form a crimp 5a (this method shall be referred to hereinafter as the "thread tying method"), the shibori (binding) work is performed continuously by free hand (see Fig. 2(B)) to form crimps 5a across the entire surface of sewn cloth 2 (this process shall be referred to hereinafter as the "shibori (binding) process").
  • crimps 5a are preferably formed not obliquely with respect to cloth 2 but in the left-right direction (the direction X shown in Figs. 2(A) and 6(A)). This is because by forming crimps 5a so as to progress in the left-right direction of cloth 2, the tension applied to cloth 2 can be distributed uniformly in the left-right direction (X direction) to thereby prevent the occurrence of distortion and warping in the shibori clothing 4, which is the final product.
  • the shibori clothing 4 which is the final product, will be finished to have a flat shape.
  • the clothing will thus be extremely convenient to handle as it will be easy to arrange and align and enable efficient transport and storage.
  • the shibori clothing 4 which is the final product, will have uniform stretchability in the left-right direction and thus be extremely comfortable to wear.
  • the inventor of this patent application proposes the method illustrated in Fig. 7 (this method shall be referred to hereinafter as the “pleating method") in addition to the "thread tying method" (see Fig. 2) described above.
  • the “pleating method” which can be called the second embodiment of the shibori forming method
  • the cloth is first pleated at a suitable length by a thread 6 that has been inserted through the eye of a sewing needle 7 (see Fig. 7(A)).
  • the cloth is then gathered in a fixed direction (direction opposite to the direction of progress of pleating) to form crimps 5b.
  • the "setting process” (to be described below) is performed to enable the shapes of crimps 5a or 5b to be maintained in the final product, that is, to fix the shibori shapes.
  • the "dyeing process” is performed by the immersion dyeing process in which the cloth is immersed in a dye solution.
  • the "setting process, "which is performed after this dyeing process and the above-described “shibori (binding) process” have been performed, is mainly comprised of a “steam setting process” and a “drying process” (see Fig. 3).
  • the "steam setting process” is performed by wrapping the entire shibori cloth 3, obtained by the “shibori (binding) process and then wrapping the cloth from above the paper with a film of polyethylene, etc. and loading this wrapped cloth into an unillustrated steam oven.
  • the steam temperature of the steam oven is set to 125°C to 135°C and preferably 130°C and the cloth is exposed to the steam for 15 to 20 minutes continuously. Then after cooling adequately, the cloth is taken out from the steam oven and preferably subject to natural drying or tumbler drying. Tumbler drying refers to the technique of heat drying the cloth while rotating the cloth.
  • the above-described process is favorable in that a dark-colored dye will not migrate to a cloth (portion) that has been dyed with a lighter colored dye even when a plurality of sheets of dyed cloth are overlaid on top of each other and subject to a heat treatment process, which is essential for a shibori (binding) process, crushed crimp process, or other crimp setting process.
  • crushed crimp process refers to the process in which a single cloth or a plurality of cloths are heat treated while being packed in a prescribed net or box to form and fix crimps on the clothing, which is the final product.
  • Fig. 9 the condition of a cloth with which migration and sublimation has occurred is illustrated schematically for an example where the dye has migrated into a light-colored polka dot portion 9 from a surrounding dark-colored portion in a shibori clothing 4 on which a polka dot pattern has been print dyed.
  • the clothing of Fig. 9 has crimps 5a formed by the above-described "thread tying method.”
  • This stain-like mark damages the beauty of a pattern, such as the polka-dot pattern, and thus causes the commercial value of shibori clothing 4 to drop.
  • the inventor has come to propose that it is optimal for the "print dyeing process” to be comprised of the four processes of “print process,” “steaming process,” “water rinsing process,” and “arranging process,” as shown in Fig. 5 and for print dyeing to be performed using cation-dyeable polyester as the cloth material.
  • a 2000-mesh screen is used and a hard (H) type spatula is used to scrape the screen.
  • a dispersion-type cationic dye is used as the dye and a gum type sizing agent is used.
  • an HT continuous steamer is used as the steam oven, the steam temperature is set to 115°C to 125°C and especially preferably 120°C, and exposure to steam is performed for 30 minutes continuously. Since cation-dyeable polyester textiles are more easily damaged in comparison to polyester for regular dyeing, the steam pressure is preferably set to 2 atmospheres or less.
  • an anionic soaping agent to be more specific, soda ash (“Lacoal PSK,” made by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. is especially preferable) is used in place of a generally used basic detergent.
  • soda ash made by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. is especially preferable
  • hot water rinsing temperature: 60° C is performed and reduction cleaning is performed for approximately 4 hours.
  • the sizing agent used in print dyeing is removed completely by this reduction cleaning.
  • the cleaning time should be adjusted finely according to the color and pattern of the cloth.
  • the above-described print dyeing method or immersion dyeing method using a cation-dyeable polyester can prevent dye migration and sublimation not only in the manufacture of shibori clothes but also in crushed crimp processes and various other clothes manufacturing processes in which a heat treatment process is applied after the print dyeing process and is therefore a technique with a wide range of applications.
  • the present inventor obtained the knowledge that the following technical matters (1) to (3) are especially important as key points for effective prevention of dye migration and sublimation in print-dyed cation-dyeable polyester cloths.
  • the shibori cloth 3 (see Fig. 1) is transferred to the "setting process” after the “shibori (binding) process” and subject to the “steam setting process” (see Fig. 4(A)) as in the above-described case of a synthetic textile.
  • the "steam setting process” is performed for 10 to 15 minutes under the steam temperature condition of 135 to 145°C and preferably 140°C.
  • the subsequent “drying process” is then omitted and the thread removing process is started.
  • the shibori (binding) process following the "sewing process”
  • the shibori cloth is subject to a pretreatment comprised of a method in which the cloth is immersed in a 5 to 7% solution of mono-ethanol bisulfite ("Monamin BTN,” made by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd. is especially favorable) at room temperature and then dried under a temperature condition of 70 to 80°C.
  • the cloth is then transferred to the "setting process” and subject to the "steam setting process (see Fig. 4(B)).
  • the "steam setting process” is favorably performed for approximately 15 minutes under a steam temperature condition of 115 to 125°C and preferably 120°C.
  • the steam pressure for this process is preferably controlled to 1.8 atmospheres or less in order to avoid damage to the wool textile.
  • a shibori clothing 4 of good handling and draping qualities can be made by performing the "steam setting process" as the "setting process” as in the above-described case for cotton and hemp.
  • shibori clothes can also be manufactured by setting the conditions of the "steam setting process” to a relatively high steam temperature of 150°C and a steam pressure of 3 atmospheres.
  • the cloth is immersed for 5 to 6 minutes in a sodium hydroxide solution of Baumé degree of 40, then rinsed in running water for 60 minutes or more, subject to neutralization treatment with an acetic acid solution of 3% concentration for 10 to 15 minutes, and dried (see Fig. 4(C)). It is especially favorable for the water rinsing in this "setting process" to be performed under running water conditions since non-uniformity of coloration due to the rubbing of cloth can be effectively prevented.
  • the shibori clothes manufacturing method of this invention may not only be applied to cloths of various materials but enables shibori forming work to be carried out securely without worry of dye migration and sublimation, even in the case of patterned cloth made by plain dyeing by immersion or print dyeing.
  • crimps 5 can be formed without fail on a cloth made of synthetic textile or natural textile and shibori clothes that are soft and comfortable to wear can be provided.
  • the present invention provides a method of manufacturing shibori clothes of the desired form and hue in a secure and stable manner by application of measures taken to intentionally leave relief-like shapes called "shibo" (crimps) in the clothes and to provide new types of shibori clothes with unique forms, stretchability, handling and draping qualities, comfort when worn, etc., wherein a shibori clothing manufacturing method, comprising at least a "shibori (binding) process,” in which numerous portions of a dyed and sewn cloth 2 are bound partially with a thread 6, a "setting process,” which has at least a “steam setting process” by which the shibori cloth 3, obtained by the "shibori (binding) process” is exposed to steam in order to maintain the shibori (bound) shapes, and a “thread removal process,” in which the abovementioned thread is removed after the "setting process”, and shibori clothes made by this method.
  • a shibori clothing manufacturing method comprising at least a "shibori (bind

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP00120648A 1999-09-29 2000-09-21 Procédé pour la fabrication des vêtements du type shibori Withdrawn EP1088926A3 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
WOPCT/JP99/05326 1999-09-29
PCT/JP1999/005326 WO2001022841A1 (fr) 1999-09-29 1999-09-29 Procede de production de vetement comprime et vetement comprime
JP34082599 1999-09-30
JP34082599 1999-09-30

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1088926A2 true EP1088926A2 (fr) 2001-04-04
EP1088926A3 EP1088926A3 (fr) 2002-08-28

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EP00120648A Withdrawn EP1088926A3 (fr) 1999-09-29 2000-09-21 Procédé pour la fabrication des vêtements du type shibori

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002101135A1 (fr) * 2001-06-08 2002-12-19 Stephanie Siepmann Tricots avec reserve
US6506219B2 (en) * 1999-09-22 2003-01-14 Konsei Co., Ltd. Method of manufacturing an article of clothing
WO2010023433A1 (fr) * 2008-08-26 2010-03-04 Selby, Colin Machine destinée à plier une feuille de matériau

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3504997A (en) * 1963-12-17 1970-04-07 Du Pont Process for dyeing and printing anionic polymeric fibers
US5356055A (en) * 1991-08-22 1994-10-18 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho D/B/A Miyake Design Studio Method of pleating garments

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3504997A (en) * 1963-12-17 1970-04-07 Du Pont Process for dyeing and printing anionic polymeric fibers
US5356055A (en) * 1991-08-22 1994-10-18 Kabushiki Kaisha Miyake Design Jimusho D/B/A Miyake Design Studio Method of pleating garments

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6506219B2 (en) * 1999-09-22 2003-01-14 Konsei Co., Ltd. Method of manufacturing an article of clothing
WO2002101135A1 (fr) * 2001-06-08 2002-12-19 Stephanie Siepmann Tricots avec reserve
WO2010023433A1 (fr) * 2008-08-26 2010-03-04 Selby, Colin Machine destinée à plier une feuille de matériau
GB2476888A (en) * 2008-08-26 2011-07-13 Colin Selby Machine for pleating a sheet of material
GB2476888B (en) * 2008-08-26 2012-08-15 Colin Selby Machine for pleating a sheet of material

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1088926A3 (fr) 2002-08-28

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