EP0950135A1 - Machine a coudre industrielle - Google Patents

Machine a coudre industrielle

Info

Publication number
EP0950135A1
EP0950135A1 EP97940468A EP97940468A EP0950135A1 EP 0950135 A1 EP0950135 A1 EP 0950135A1 EP 97940468 A EP97940468 A EP 97940468A EP 97940468 A EP97940468 A EP 97940468A EP 0950135 A1 EP0950135 A1 EP 0950135A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
arm
groove
needle holder
button hole
needle
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP97940468A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Nikolaos Kosmas
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Electrin Holding Nv
Original Assignee
Electrin Holding Nv
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Electrin Holding Nv filed Critical Electrin Holding Nv
Publication of EP0950135A1 publication Critical patent/EP0950135A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/02—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing with mechanisms for needle-bar movement
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B3/00—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing
    • D05B3/06—Sewing apparatus or machines with mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making ornamental pattern seams, for sewing buttonholes, for reinforcing openings, or for fastening articles, e.g. buttons, by sewing for sewing buttonholes

Definitions

  • the present invention pertains to an industrial sewing machine for the completion of a button hole in a fabric, which button hole may or may not have been already opened, comprising a needle holder for the purposes of receiving a needle therein, which needle holder is coupled via an arm to means which, at least during operation, force the needle holder to move to and fro substantially transverse to the direction of the needle.
  • buttons such as the keyhole type depicted in figure 1.
  • the entire button hole is thereby finished with an all-around zigzag stitch. This serves not only to improve appearances, but it also prevents possible fraying of the fabric which was cut in the vicinity of the hole.
  • the fabric can be pre-cut at the location of the button hole which is being introduced, in which case one speaks of a 'cut-before' button hole, or otherwise can be incised after the stitching has been performed, which results in a so-called 'cut after' button hole. Both cases are depicted in figures 2B and 2A, respectively.
  • a characteristic difference between both types is the small intermediate opening between both stitched sides - the so-called 'cutting space' - which must be taken into account to allow room for the knife with which the button hole will be subsequently realised.
  • Such an intermediate opening is generally not present in the case of a 'cut before' button hole.
  • a supplementary strengthening thread can be employed along the edge of the button hole.
  • buttons are normally only used in more luxurious garments such as, for example, overcoats, sports coats, robes and pants.
  • the 'cut after' button holes which remain characterised by a narrow, more or less frayed edge in the fabric cut within the button hole, and a slightly narrower stitch bite, are mainly used in casual clothing such as jeans and jackets and for less expensive clothing.
  • an industrial sewing machine of the type referred to in the opening paragraph is characterised in that said means comprise oscillation means which, at least during operation, cause an extremity of the arm turned away from the needle holder to move to and fro substantially transverse to the direction of the arm, in that the arm carries a cam which is received in a groove of a pivotably suspended first body, which groove extends under a non-perpendicular angle to the axial direction of the arm, and in that said first body is adjustably fixed in a groove of a further body that is connected to a fixed portion of the device, which groove of said further body also extends under a non-perpendicular angle to the axial direction of the arm.
  • the cam shall exhibit a forward and backward motion in the groove of the first body as a result of the oscillating motion of the extremity of the arm. Because the angle between the groove and the direction of the arm deviates from a right angle, a forward and backward motion of the arm results, which motion is proportional to the cosine of the aforementioned angle. This motion is responsible for the stitch bite of the thread because the needle holder containing the needle is forced to follow this movement.
  • the stitch bite can be easily set by varying the angle of the pivotably suspended first body, and thereby of the groove in it, with respect to the direction arm. By sliding the first body in the groove of said further body and thereby giving a greater or lesser offset to the arm, the intermediate cutting space between both stitch strips can be adjusted as desired.
  • the device according to the invention is thereby characterised in that the hinging ability of the body is deliberately limited between previously-determined first and second extremity positions.
  • the body is adjusted in the groove of the further body in such a manner that the machine produces a rather wide stitch bite in a first extremity position of the body with no room or very little room within the button hole, and it, in the second extremity position, produces a narrower stitch bite in combination with a certain separation within the button hole, then the machine can be switched between both modes of button hole production in an extremely easy fashion in a manner which requires the use of no additional tools and no special technical knowledge. The person who normally operates the machine can then perform this operation himself without any doubt.
  • Fig. 1 depicts an example of a button hole of the so-called key-hole type which can be produced with the sewing machine according to the invention
  • Fig's. 2A-2B show button holes of the 'cut after' and 'cut before' types, respectively
  • Fig. 3 shows a cut-away view of an embodiment of means in an exemplary embodiment of the sewing machine ac cording to the invention, which means provide for a forward and backward motion of the sewing needle
  • Fig. 4 depicts the components of figure 3 in an assembled state;
  • Fig. 5 provides a detail view of a portion of an exemplary embodiment of the sewing machine according to the invention; and Fig. 6 shows a cut-away detail view of the device in figure 5 viewed from the opposite direction.
  • Figure 1 depicts an example of a button hole 1 of the so-called keyhole variety which can be produced with a sewing machine according to the invention.
  • the button hole comprises peripheral stitching 2 which is used to border the enclosed opening.
  • the button hole exhibits a circular widening 3 at one of its extremities, within which widening a decoration such as a flower, for example, can be inserted, and which widening gives this button hole its characteristic shape.
  • the button hole can be manufactured in two global ways depicted in figures 2 A and 2B, respectively.
  • a first one the so-called 'cut after' type - both rows 21, 22 with stitching keep a certain mutual separation distance CS within which the button hole is cut after the stitching is completed.
  • this type of button hole has a slightly narrower stitch bite SB than the second type that is indicated in figure 2B and is usually referred to as a 'cut before' button hole.
  • the fabric is first cut and only then is the button hole sewn. A much prettier result is achieved in this manner because any possible fraying of the edge of the button hole is covered with stitching; if desired, through the use of a strengthening thread.
  • a 'cut before' button hole demands a higher degree of precision from the machine, whereby this latter type of button hole will be generally more expensive and is usually reserved for more luxurious garments.
  • the characteristic zig-zag stitch used to finish the button hole is achieved by an oscillating movement of the needle holder which carries the sewing needle, at least during operation.
  • the needle holder is received by the fork projection from a rotating element 20, see figures 3 and 4, but for sake of clarity left out from the drawings.
  • An oscillating rotation over a small angle of said element 20 forces the needle holder back and forth in a direction transverse to the sewing direction in order to obtain the characteristic zig-zag stitch.
  • the element is coupled 20 to means which, during operation, force the needle holder in said movement to and fro.
  • These means comprise an arm 21 which is fixed to the needle holder in a manner such that it can be hinged and whose other extremity emanates in a jaw 22.
  • the jaw 22 receives a camshaft that is assumed to be sufficiently well known so as not to require further drawing here, which camshaft operates together with the jaw in order to force the extremity to move to and fro in a direction perpendicular to the direction 23 of the arm.
  • the arm carries a cam 24 which is received in a more or less well-fitting manner in a groove 25 which has been introduced in a body 26 which is connected to a fixed portion 100 of the device; see also figure 6.
  • the groove 25 in the body 26 extends along a non- perpendicular angle to the direction 23 of the arm.
  • the forward and backward motion of the extremity 22 forces the arm into an oscillatory motion in the direction 23 of the arm, the amplitude of which oscillation determines the final stitch bite. This amplitude is proportional to the cosine of the aforementioned angle of the groove 25 with respect to the arm 21.
  • the body 26 is slightly loosened with a knob 28 (see figure 3, 5 and 6) and is moved in the direction of arrow X into the hole 29.
  • the body 26 with the groove 25 is, in turn, adjustably mounted in a groove 32 of a further body 33.
  • This groove 32 also subtends a non-perpendicular angle to the direction 23 of the arm.
  • the extremity positions of the first body 26 and the height of the first body 26 in this further groove 32 can be mutually adjusted with the Allen key bolts 30 and a further bolt 34 and slide hole 35, respectively, in such a manner that, in one extremity position, the machine produces a relatively wide stitch bite SB that largely misses any spacing CS (for purposes of creating a 'cut after' button hole), while, in the other extremity position, a somewhat narrower stitch bite SB, in combination with a sufficiently wide spacing CS, is produced for purposes of manufacturing a 'cut after' button hole.
  • the machine can be switched between both extremity positions in a very simple manner, whereby altering the button hole mode can be done in a very user-friendly way. No special additional tools are required for this, nor is a service technician required. The person who normally operates the machine can perform everything independently.
  • the adjustability of the stich bite and cutting space may be realised in a similar fashion elsewhere along the length of the cam shaft, for instance at the opposite end of it near the element 20 which receives the needle bar holder.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

Cette machine à coudre industrielle, destinée à l'exécution d'une boutonnière (1) comprend un porte-aiguille (20) relié via un bras (21) à des moyens assurant un mouvement avant et arrière, perpendiculaire au sens de l'aiguille. Ces moyens déplacent une extrémité (22) du bras, tournée de manière à s'éloigner du porte-aiguille, selon un mouvement avant et arrière, perpendiculaire au sens (23) du bras. Le bras porte une came (24), laquelle coulisse de manière ajustée dans une gorge (25) d'un premier corps (26), lequel coulisse à son tour dans une gorge (32) d'un autre corps (33) relié à une portion fixe (100) du dispositif. Etant donné que l'une et l'autre gorge (25, 32) s'étendent selon un angle qui n'est pas perpendiculaire au sens du bras, ce bras est forcé de ce déplacer vers l'avant et l'arrière. L'amplitude du déplacement est proportionnelle au cosinus de l'angle de la gorge et elle détermine éventuellement la piqûre du point de couture de l'aiguille, dont la largeur peut facilement se régler au moyen du premier corps monté pivotant (26). On peut régler l'espace de coupe en faisant coulisser le premier corps (25) dans la gorge de l'autre corps (33).
EP97940468A 1997-09-05 1997-09-05 Machine a coudre industrielle Withdrawn EP0950135A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/NL1997/000509 WO1999013147A1 (fr) 1997-09-05 1997-09-05 Machine a coudre industrielle

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0950135A1 true EP0950135A1 (fr) 1999-10-20

Family

ID=19866210

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP97940468A Withdrawn EP0950135A1 (fr) 1997-09-05 1997-09-05 Machine a coudre industrielle

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0950135A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2001504026A (fr)
TW (1) TW367379B (fr)
WO (1) WO1999013147A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2001327776A (ja) * 2000-05-25 2001-11-27 Juki Corp ミシンの制御装置、および縫い方法

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1991627A (en) * 1931-10-16 1935-02-19 Reece Button Hole Machine Co Buttonhole sewing machine
US2713838A (en) * 1953-05-25 1955-07-26 Singer Mfg Co Needle-vibration controlling mechanisms for zigzag stitch sewing machines
NL171941B (nl) * 1950-02-25 Du Pont Werkwijze voor het bereiden van een poedermengsel, dat geschikt is voor het aanbrengen van opgedrukte elektrische weerstanden, alsmede elektrische weerstand verkregen onder toepassing van dit poedermengsel.
BE502065A (fr) * 1950-04-07
DE951184C (de) * 1952-03-29 1956-10-25 Willy Messerschmitt Dr Ing Vorrichtung zur Ein- bzw. Verstellung eines Punktes des Steuerhebels einer Zickzacknaehmaschine
DE966486C (de) * 1954-06-11 1957-08-08 Weba Werk K G M Georg Breitwie Zickzack-Naehmaschine
AT280750B (de) * 1966-01-19 1970-04-27 Elitex Zavody Textilniho Vorrichtung zum automatischen Ändern der Stichbreite des Zick-Zack-Stiches beim Nähen der Riegeldeckstiche auf einer automatischen Knopflochnähmaschine
NL1002651C2 (nl) * 1996-03-20 1997-09-23 Electrin Holding N V Industriële naaimachine.

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO9913147A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2001504026A (ja) 2001-03-27
TW367379B (en) 1999-08-21
WO1999013147A1 (fr) 1999-03-18

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