Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/85—Polyesters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/88—Polyamides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

Definitions

• the subject of the present invention is cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, as a coating agent for keratin fibers, a film-forming mixture consisting of film-forming polymer particles and rigid, non-film-forming particles as well as their uses in the field of cosmetics or dermopharmacy, in particular in eyelash and eyebrow makeup products and in products for styling and / or maintaining the hair.
• aqueous mascaras known as “creams” in the form of a wax emulsion in water
• mascaras known as “water-proof”, anhydrous or with a low water content, which are dispersions. waxes in oils.
• Conventional cream mascaras are generally well distributed along the eyelash and form a uniform deposit along the eyelash, producing satisfactory eyelash lengthening. However, they have the disadvantage of being little resistant to water and ambient humidity (rain, tears, baths, etc.) and have poor mechanical properties such as resistance to dry friction (passage of the hand on the eyelids).
• One of the objectives of the present invention is to produce a new type of aqueous mascaras formulation using, as an eyelash coating agent, an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles possibly in the presence of a plasticizing agent and which can make it possible to resolve the disadvantages mentioned above.
• an aqueous mascara composition containing an aqueous suspension of pigments and using as eyelash coating agent, a suspension of film-forming polymer particles optionally in the presence of a plasticizing agent, leads to a heterogeneous, discontinuous deposit and undesirable on the eyelash.
• the addition of surfactants in the mascara formulation in order to lower its surface tension to a value lower than that of the surface energy of an eyelash does not eliminate this phenomenon.
• the hair styling compositions of the prior art using, as the main or auxiliary hair coating agent, an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles optionally in the presence of plasticizing agents also tend to lead, after deposition and drying, to a sheathing of the hair. heterogeneous and discontinuous hair.
• Another objective of the present invention is to produce hair formulations for styling and / or maintaining hair containing, as the main eyelash coating agent, an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles optionally in the presence of a plasticizing agent and which can allow this phenomenon to be significantly reduced or even eliminated entirely.
• aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles with certain non-film-forming particles in particular proportions which will be defined later in the description, it is possible to formulate aqueous mascaras. containing a composite film-forming material making it possible not only to solve all the problems specific to mascaras as mentioned above but also making it possible to obtain a homogeneous and continuous coating of the eyelash.
• compositions in accordance with the invention are characterized in that they contain, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, as a coating agent for keratin fibers, from 15 to 60% by weight in dry extract of a film-forming mixture consisting of:
• A at least one aqueous dispersion of polymer particles which can be filmed by themselves or which can be filmed in the presence of at least one plasticizing agent; the glass transition temperature Tg of the polymer or of the polymer / plasticizer mixture being less than or equal to 25 ° C; and (B) at least one aqueous dispersion of non-film-forming particles, spherical or anisotropic, capable of forming a percolation network in the matrix of the film formed from the film-forming particles and possibly the plasticizing agent;
• said non-film-forming particles are different from pigments and are present in said film-forming mixture in concentrations ranging from 20 to 90% by volume when they are spherical and in concentrations ranging from 10 to 80% by volume when they are anisotropic.
• percolation network in the matrix of the filmed polymer means the network formed by the non-film-forming particles by interconnection and formation of aggregates, dispersed inside the entire matrix of the polymer film to from a certain threshold of volume fraction of said particles in the film-forming mixture of the invention. Below this threshold, the non-film-forming particles are not percolating and are distributed randomly in the matrix of the polymer film. This type of behavior is described in the article by Nicole ALBEROLA, Corinne BAS and Patrice MELE, C. R. Sci. Paris, t. 319, Series II, p1 129-1 134, 1994.
• the particles not -filmifiable according to the invention must be present in the mixture constituted by the film-forming polymer particles and the non-film-forming particles in concentrations ranging from 20 to 90% by volume and preferably from 20 to 80% by volume when they are spherical and in concentrations ranging from 10 to 80% by volume and preferably from 10 to 70% by volume when they are anisotropic.
• the percolation network in the film-coated polymer matrix no longer takes place and the mechanical properties of the sheathing of the keratin fibers do not are more satisfactory. After drying in this case, a deposit is also obtained on the sticky fiber.
• the volume fraction of the non-film-forming particles in the film-forming mixture is above the maximum volume fractions indicated above, a poor filming of the composite material on the fiber is observed.
• the film-forming polymer particles are chosen from all the types of polymers known in cosmetics capable of forming, in the presence or not of plasticizing agents, a film-forming material having a glass transition temperature Tg of less than or equal to 25 ° C. and more preferably ranging from -50 ° C to 25 ° C.
• the glass transition temperature Tg of the polymer or of the polymer / plasticizer mixture will be preferably less than or equal to 10 ° C.
• polymers constituting the film-forming particles mention may be made, for example, of ethylenically unsaturated polymers such as polyacrylics, polyvinyls, polyolefins; polycondensates such as polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas; natural or modified natural polymers such as certain cellulose ethers such as the product AQUACOAT marketed by SEPPIC (pseudo-ethyl cellulose latex) or certain cellulose esters such as the product CAB -SU 160 marketed by EASTMAN (acetobutyrate succinate latex partially neutralized cellulose).
• ethylenically unsaturated polymers such as polyacrylics, polyvinyls, polyolefins; polycondensates such as polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas; natural or modified natural polymers such as certain cellulose ethers such as the product AQUACOAT marketed by SEPPIC (pseudo
• amphoteric film-forming polymers containing monomers carrying amphoteric groups such as betaine monomers or anionic polymers containing monomers bearing ionized or ionizable anionic groups in particular carboxylic acid groups and / or sulfonic acid groups and / or phosphoric acid groups.
• the proportion of amphoteric or anionic monomer will generally vary from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers constituting the film-forming polymer.
• the betaine or acid groups are preferably partially or completely neutralized so that the final pH of the mixture constituted by the aqueous dispersion of film-forming particles and the aqueous dispersion of rigid and non-film-forming particles is between 4 and 8 and more preferably between 6 and 7.5.
• the neutralizing agents are preferably chosen from mineral bases such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or amino alcohols, for example taken from the group consisting of 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol-1 (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (TIPA) ), monoethanolamine, tri [(hydroxy-2) propyl-1 amino, 2-amino-2-methyl propanediol-1, 3 (AMPD), 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-propanediol-1, 3.
• mineral bases such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or amino alcohols, for example taken from the group consisting of 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol-1 (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (TIPA) ), monoethanolamine, tri [(hydroxy-2) propyl-1 amino, 2-amino-2-methyl propanediol-1, 3 (AMPD), 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-propanediol-1, 3.
• AMP 2-amino-2-methyl-prop
• the molecular weight, measured by size exclusion chromatography, of these film-forming polymers is generally less than or equal to 500,000.
• the non-film-forming particles of the invention can be of any kind. They can be mineral or organic, spherical or anisotropic (for example in the form of ellipsoids, discs, plates, sticks or fibrils). They are different from the pigments usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
• the term pigment is understood to mean, throughout the description, any natural or synthetic substance (or material) consisting of fine particles insoluble in their environment of use, the main function of which is to provide the keratin materials with coloring or covering properties.
• coloring pigments there may be mentioned for example inorganic pigments such as zirconium, cerium, zinc or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, organic pigments such as carbon black or D & C Rouge 36.
• inorganic pigments such as zirconium, cerium, zinc or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, organic pigments such as carbon black or D & C Rouge 36.
• covering pigments mention may be made of kaolin, talc, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate or their equivalents.
• the average size of the non-film-forming particles of the invention is preferably less than or equal to 1 ⁇ m and more preferably less than or equal to 600 nm.
• the largest size is preferably less than or equal to 30 ⁇ m and more preferably less than or equal to 10 ⁇ m.
• the non-film-forming particles of the organic type used according to the present invention are preferably particles of polymer having a glass transition temperature Tg greater than or equal to 50 ° C and more particularly greater than 70 ° C.
• silicas e.g., be made of silicas.
• non-filmable anisotropic mineral particles e.g., be made of clays (platelets) such as montmorillonites, laponites, bentonites, in particular the commercial product OPTIGEL WA sold by SUD CHIMIE, mineral microfibrils such as certain titanates such as the commercial product FYBEX sold by DUPONT DE NEMOURS, particles of silicon carbide.
• non-filmable organic spherical particles which can be used, mention will be made of: - ethylenically unsaturated polymers such as polyacrylic or polyvinyl vinyl having a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 50 ° C;
• polycondensates such as polyurethanes or polyureas having a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 50 ° C.
• the non-film-forming particles of the invention more preferably consist of spherical particles of crosslinked polymer.
• polymers or copolymers preferably crosslinked, obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of a monomer or of a mixture of monomers chosen from the group consisting of acrylates or methacrylates of linear, cyclic or branched CC 10 alkyl such as methyl methyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, acrylate or isobornyl methacrylate; styrene; vinyltoluene; vinyl chloride, vinyl benzoate or vinyl teriobutylbenzoate; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid.
• acrylates or methacrylates of linear, cyclic or branched CC 10 alkyl such as methyl methyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, acrylate or isobornyl methacrylate
• styrene vinyltoluene
• vinyl chloride vinyl benzo
• Particularly preferred polymers are crosslinked copolymers of at least one linear, cyclic or branched CC 8 alkyl methacrylate and of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.
• the crosslinking agents are preferably chosen from those commonly used in radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example, of the diacrylates or dimethacrylates of ethylene glycol, of polyethylene glycol, of propylene glycol, of divinylbenzene, of pentaerythritol di- or tri-methacrylate; diacrylates or dimethylacrylates of alkylenediols such as hexanediol dimethacrylate. They are used in amounts preferably ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the monomers constituting the non-film-forming polymer.
• non-film-forming particles made up of amphoteric polymer containing monomers carrying amphoteric groups such as betaine monomers or non-film-forming particles consisting of anionic polymer containing monomers carrying ionized or ionizable anionic groups in particular carboxylic acid groups and / or sulfonic acid groups and / or phosphoric acid groups.
• the proportion of amphoteric or anionic monomer will generally vary from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers constituting the non-film-forming polymer.
• the betaine or acid groups are preferably partially or totally neutralized so that the final pH of the mixture consisting of the aqueous dispersion of film-forming particles and the aqueous dispersion of non-film-forming particles is between 4 and 8 and more preferably between 6 and 7.5.
• the mixture constituted by the film-forming particles and the rigid and non-film-forming particles is present in dry extract in the compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 25 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
• the dispersions of particles of film-forming or non-film-forming polymer according to the invention can be obtained by batch emulsion polymerization, according to a process comprising:
• compositions according to the invention may optionally additionally contain a plasticizing agent to improve the mechanical properties, the cosmetic properties and the adhesion to the keratin fibers of the composite material deposited after application and drying.
• plasticizing agents which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned:
• CARBITOL or diethylene glycol ethyl ether, methyl CARBITOL or diethylene glycol methyl ether, butyl CARBITOL or diethylene glycol butyl ether or hexyl
• CELLOSOLVES from the company UNION CARBIDE, namely CELLOSOLVE or ethylene glycol ethyl ether, butyl CELLOSOLVE or ethylene glycol butyl ether, hexyl CELLOSOLVE or ethylene glycol hexyl ether,
• propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, as well as DOWANOLS from the company DOW CHEMICAL, namely DOWANOL PM or propylene glycol methyl ether, DOWANOL DPM or dipropylene glycol methyl ether and DOWANOL TPM or tripropylene glycol methyl ether.
• DOW CHEMICAL namely DOWANOL PM or propylene glycol methyl ether
• DOWANOL DPM dipropylene glycol methyl ether
• DOWANOL TPM tripropylene glycol methyl ether
• DOWANOL DM diethylene glycol methyl ether
• glycerol esters such as glycerol diacetate (diacetin) and glycerol triacetate (triacetin).
• the plasticizing agent is present in a proportion preferably ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture consisting of the film-forming polymer particles and the non-film-forming particles. This proportion varies depending on the application envisaged.
• the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium of the compositions of the invention preferably consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one solvent which is cosmetically acceptable and compatible with the non-film-forming particles and the film-forming particles such as '' a monoalcohol, a polyalcohol, a glycol ether, acetone or an ester, alone or in the form of a mixture. It more particularly consists of water or water and a lower alcohol CC 4 such as ethanol or isopropanol.
• compositions according to the invention as defined above can be used as a base of hair product for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle, in particular aerosol lacquers or pump bottles for fixing the hair, lotions for styling or brushing, gels or styling mousse.
• the hair compositions in accordance with the invention can additionally contain conventional cosmetic additives such as preservatives, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, dyes, viscosity modifiers, propellants, pearlescent agents, moisturizing agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, sun filters, hair conditioning agents, antioxidants, proteins, vitamins.
• cosmetic additives such as preservatives, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, dyes, viscosity modifiers, propellants, pearlescent agents, moisturizing agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, sun filters, hair conditioning agents, antioxidants, proteins, vitamins.
• compositions according to the present invention can be used as a base for making up the eyelashes and the eyebrows, such as a mascara or an eyeliner.
• the makeup compositions of the eyelashes and the eyebrows generally contain pigments. These pigments can be organic or mineral or can also be pearlescent pigments. Such pigments are well known and are described in particular in FR 83-09997 (2,528,699). They can be in the form of a pigment paste like the commercial COSMENYL products sold by the company HOECHST.
• the eyelash and eyebrow makeup compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one conventional additive chosen from a softener, a preservative, a sequestering agent, a perfume, a thickening agent, an oil, a silicone, a cohesion, an alkalizing or acidifying agent, a filler, anionic surfactants and / or nonionic surfactants.
• Another object of the invention consists in the use of the film-forming mixture constituted by:
• Another object of the invention consists in the use of said film-forming mixture in and for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended to be applied to keratin fibers and to form a homogeneous and continuous sheathing of said fibers.
• composition of the polymer is composition of the polymer:
• a dispersion of polymer particles having the following characteristics is obtained: - Average particle size: 92 nm
• composition of the polymer is composition of the polymer:
• composition A is prepared:
• a mascara formulation is produced by mixing the following ingredients with magnetic stirring:
• the mascara is deposited on each type of fiber by three consecutive passes of the fiber through a little mascara placed on a glass plate or in a conical plastic split applicator.
• immersed films swell slightly but do not detach from the fibers thus treated.
• the ability to remove make-up from the mascara of the invention is also evaluated, by immersing the fibers coated with mascara and then dried for 24 hours, in a sufficient amount of a conventional make-up removing solution such as the commercial product EFFACIL to cover said fibers. A slight friction is carried out by the passage of a finger over the immersed film at different immersion times. The film completely detaches from the hair fiber after 1 minute and from the polyamide fiber after 2 minutes.
• composition B is prepared
• Example 2 26.6% in dry extract
• Example 1 26.6% in dry extract
• Concentration B is obtained obtained on a rotary evaporator until a dry extract of 40% by weight is obtained.
• a mascara formulation is produced by mixing the following ingredients with magnetic stirring:
• This mascara results in a sheathing of a capillary fiber or of an unbleached, homogeneous, continuous polyamide fiber. It has good water resistance and is easily removed with conventional make-up remover (the film completely detaches from the hair fiber after 1 minute and from the polyamide fiber after 2 minutes).
• a mascara formulation is produced by mixing the following ingredients with magnetic stirring:
• Example 1 Dispersion of non-film-forming polymer particles of Example 1 (40% in dry extract) 50% by weight
• This mascara results in a coating on capillary fiber or unbleached, homogeneous, continuous polyamide fiber. It has good resistance to water and is easily removed with conventional make-up remover (the film completely detaches from the hair fiber after 1 minute and from the polyamide fiber after 2 minutes).
• a hair styling product base is produced by mixing the following ingredients with magnetic stirring:
• the appearance of the cladding is also observed with a composition containing only the dispersion of film-forming polymer of Example 2. Such a composition leads to a cladding of heterogeneous, discontinuous hair fiber.
• composition of the polymer (percentage by weight):
• the temperature was raised to 85X and maintained under these conditions for 30 minutes. Then the reaction medium was allowed to return to ambient temperature and it was adjusted to pH 7 by the addition of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol. Then we filtered on nylon canvas. The latex concentration was then reduced from 25% to 40% of dry extract by concentrating on a rotary evaporator.
• composition of the polymer (percentage by weight): - isobutyl acrylate 80%
• the polymer dispersion was prepared under the same conditions as those described in Example 8, without the pH adjustment step, using the following "flows" S1 and S2:
• ABEX JKB (100% active ingredient) 2.7g. Potassium persulfate 0.446g
• Example 1 The extract from the dispersion of Example 1 was reduced to 40% by concentration on a rotary evaporator.
• Latex of Example 1 (40% extract) 30 g
• Latex from Example 8 35 g
• Latex of Example 9 (extract 40%) 35 g
• the final pH of the mixture was adjusted to 6.5 by adding amino 2 methyl 2 propanol.
• a mascara formulation was produced by mixing this combination of three latexes with the COSMENYL BLACK pigment paste from HOECHST already used in Example No. 3 and in the following proportions:

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• 1998
  • 1998-01-16 EP EP98903074A patent/EP0909157A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1998-01-16 WO PCT/FR1998/000080 patent/WO1998031329A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1998-01-16 US US09/142,939 patent/US6126929A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1998-01-16 CN CN199898800309A patent/CN1224343A/zh active Pending
  • 1998-01-16 CA CA002249478A patent/CA2249478A1/fr not_active Abandoned
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