EP0687759A1 - Procédé et dispositif pour l'abrasion mécanique d'une étoffe - Google Patents

Procédé et dispositif pour l'abrasion mécanique d'une étoffe Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0687759A1
EP0687759A1 EP94304242A EP94304242A EP0687759A1 EP 0687759 A1 EP0687759 A1 EP 0687759A1 EP 94304242 A EP94304242 A EP 94304242A EP 94304242 A EP94304242 A EP 94304242A EP 0687759 A1 EP0687759 A1 EP 0687759A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
abrasive surface
abraded
further characterized
roller
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP94304242A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
David Wing Bong Wong
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to EP94304242A priority Critical patent/EP0687759A1/fr
Publication of EP0687759A1 publication Critical patent/EP0687759A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0093—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
    • D06B11/0096—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/02—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by singeing, teasing, shearing, etching or brushing

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a method and an apparatus for mechanically abrading fabric and, in particular, to a method and an apparatus for abrading fabric on the roll or in the piece having pre-determined characteristics such as surface wear, shading or patterns.
  • Fabric "in the piece” herein refers to articles of clothing made of fabric, e.g. jeans or jackets.
  • Fabric "on the roll” refers to unworked fabric, usually but not necessarily, wound into a roll. This invention is most suitable for application on Indigo denim or pigment painted fabrics.
  • 5,114,426 discloses a method wherein the fabric is tumbled with stones of a chemical composition that is soluble in wash or rinse liquid for the fabric, but where the stones are of sufficient size and hardness to effect abrasion of the fabric without substantial mechanical disintegration of the stones.
  • the effect of treatment of most of the above methods is homogenous, i.e. the degree of treatment or abrasion is substantially the same over the entire treated fabric.
  • the degree of treatment or abrasion is substantially the same over the entire treated fabric.
  • the "sandblasting" method it is not possible to determine before treatment to an accurate extent, any specific characteristics of any particular area or areas of the fabric, e.g. surface wear, shading or patterns. Any disparity in the degree of treatment or abrasion among the areas of the fabric is largely accidental and not accurately repeatable.
  • a method for abrading fabric on the roll or in the piece having pre-determined characteristics such as surface wear, shading or patterns including the steps of providing an abrasive surface for abrading one side of the fabric; moving the side of the fabric to be abraded over the abrasive surface at a controlled velocity relative thereto; simultaneously therewith, providing means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric to be abraded in a direction towards the abrasive surface so as to increase abrasion between the fabric and the abrasive surface in the region where said pressure is applied relative to areas where said pressure is not applied; and moving said fabric out of contact with said abrasive surface to produce a fabric with an abraded surface.
  • the abrasive surface may be movable during the abrasion step.
  • the abrasive surface may be cylindrical and rotatable.
  • the means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded may constitute a roller selectively biassed towards the abrasive surface.
  • the surface of the roller may have a relief or pattern thereon having respective high and low areas relative to the median surface of the roller, to thereby selectively vary the pressure applied to the fabric such that when the fabric passes the abrasive surface a corresponding relief or pattern is imparted to it on that side of the fabric adjacent to the abrasive surface.
  • the velocity of the fabric may be synchronized with that of the roller such that the relative velocity between the fabric and the roller at the point where the fabric is closest to the surface of the roller is substantially zero.
  • the means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded may alternatively constitute a continuous belt supported for movement on rollers, which belt having a relief or pattern thereon having respective high and low areas.
  • the means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded may alternatively constitute a plurality of individually controllable elements which are adapted to bear against the fabric during treatment thereof, thereby to provide corresponding areas on the fabric which are more abraded than others.
  • the fabric may be moved during abrasion by means of rollers, the velocity of such movement being relatively substantially lower to the movement of the abrasive surface, thereby to increase the abrasion received by the fabric.
  • Pressure applied to that side of the fabric not to be abraded may be synchronized with the movement of the fabric such that substantially only those areas where maximum pressure on the fabric is applied are abraded by the abrasive surface.
  • an apparatus for abrading fabric on the roll or in the piece having pre-determined characteristics such as surface wear, shading or patterns comprising an abrasive surface for abrading the fabric; means for moving the side of the fabric to be abraded over the abrasive surface at a controlled velocity relative thereto; and means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded in a direction towards the abrasive surface so as to increase abrasion between the fabric and the abrasive surface in the region where said pressure is applied relative to areas where said pressure is not applied.
  • the abrasive surface may be movable.
  • the abrasive surface may be cylindrical and rotatable.
  • the means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded may constitute a roller selectively biassed towards the abrasive surface.
  • the surface of the roller may have a relief or pattern thereon having respective high and low areas relative to the median surface of the roller, to thereby selectively vary the pressure applied to the fabric such that when the fabric passes the abrasive surface a corresponding relief or pattern is imparted to it on that side of the fabric adjacent to the abrasive surface.
  • the velocity of the fabric may be synchronized with that of the roller such that the relative velocity between the fabric and the roller at the point where the fabric is closest to the surface of the roller is substantially zero.
  • the means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded may alternatively constitute a continuous belt supported for movement on rollers, which belt having a relief or pattern thereon having respective high and low areas.
  • the means for selectively applying pressure to the side of the fabric not to be abraded may alternatively constitute a plurality of individually controllable elements which are adapted to bear against the fabric during treatment thereof, thereby to provide corresponding areas on the fabric which are more abraded than others.
  • the means for moving the side of the fabric to be abraded over the abrasive surface at a controlled velocity relative thereto may constitute a plurality of rollers.
  • a fabric and a clothing piece abraded in accordance with any of the above methods are provided.
  • a fabric and a clothing piece abraded by any of the above apparatus.
  • Fig. 1 shows an abrasion apparatus generally designated as 1 for abrading the upper side 3 of a piece of fabric 5.
  • the apparatus 1 includes an abrasion roller 7 rotatable along its longitudinal axis and movable along a rail 9. There is also provided a continuous rubber belt 11 mounted for movement on rollers 13a and 13b.
  • the outer circumferential surface of the abrasion roller 7 is provided with abrasive materials, which may be provided by securing to the surface a sheet of paper or cloth coated with abrasive particles, e.g. silicone oxide, aluminium oxide and metal carbide particles. It is found that abrasive particles of a diameter of about 0.2mm to 0.8mm and coated abrasive sheets having a grit size of 180 to P1200 are suitable for this purpose.
  • a roller 15b is driven by a motor (not shown) to rotate in the clockwise direction and thus to draw the piece of fabric 5 off roller 15a onto roller 15b.
  • the upper side 3 of the fabric 5 faces the abrasion roller 7 and its bottom side 17 faces the rubber belt 11.
  • the rubber belt 11 is provided with high areas 19 and low areas 20.
  • the height of the high areas 19 is exaggerated. In practice, the high areas 19 will be in the region of several millimetres high.
  • the roller 13b is also driven to rotate in the clockwise direction at such a speed that there is substantially no relative movement between the fabric 5 and the rubber belt 11 at or adjacent the region where the fabric 5 comes into contact with the abrasive materials of the abrasion roller 7.
  • the abrasion roller 7 is driven to rotate at a relatively high speed, e.g. 3000 r.p.m..
  • the linear velocity of the fabric 5 across the abrasion roller 7 is substantially lower, e.g. from 1/3 metre to 2 metres per minute.
  • regions of the fabric 5 where, at the time of abrasion, there are underlying high areas 19 the degree of abrasion will be higher due to higher pressure exerted by the high areas 19 against the fabric 5. Such regions will therefore be more faded than those regions where, at the time of abrasion, there are underlying low areas 20.
  • the general degree of shading can be determined by adjusting the speed of the fabric 5 across the abrasion roller 7. The lower the speed, the more abraded the fabric 5 will be, and vice versa.
  • Fig. 2 shows a second embodiment of an abrasion apparatus according to the present invention generally designated as 19. While the particular apparatus 19 shown in the drawing comprises three abrasion units arranged in series generally designated as 21, 23 and 25 respectively, it should be understood that the number of such abrasion units in any particular apparatus 19 may vary according to the specific requirements and needs.
  • Fabric 5 to be treated is first wound upon a feeding roller 27 supported by two freely-rotatable support rollers 29a and 29b.
  • the fabric 5 is then passed through a fabric feeding system, generally designated as 31, to be described in more detail below.
  • the fabric 5, after being treated successively by the abrasion units 21, 23 and 25, is received and wound upon a receiving roller 33.
  • the receiving roller 33 is in contact with and is caused to move by a torque motor 34.
  • the torque motor 34 rotates in a clockwise direction and causes the receiving roller 33 to move in an anti-clockwise direction and to thus draw onto itself fabric 5 treated by the abrasion units 21, 23 and 25.
  • the fabric 5, after its treatment by abrasion unit 25, has substantially no velocity and will accumulate near the abrasion unit 25 and will thus be wound onto the receiving roller 33. If, however, the fabric 5 between the abrasion unit 25 and the receiving roller 33 is in tension, the torque motor 34 will stop rotation to avoid any damage to the torque motor 34 or the fabric 5.
  • the abrasion rollers 45 generally rotate in an anticlockwise direction. Due to the high speed of rotation of the abrasion rollers 45 and the friction between the abrasion rollers 45 and the fabric 5, there is a large force drawing the fabric 5 away from the fabric feeding system 31 towards the abrasion units 21, 23 and 25.
  • the fabric feeding system 31, to be described below, serves the purpose of limiting the speed of the movement of the fabric 5.
  • Fig. 3 shows in more detail the fabric feeding system 31.
  • Fabric 5 from the feeding roller 27 passes through pulleys 35 and 36.
  • the respective outer circumferential surface of pulleys 35 is provided with relatively rough materials to increase the friction between the fabric 5 and the pulleys 35.
  • the pulleys 35 are driven by, and their speed of rotation is controlled by, a motor 37.
  • the pulleys 35 are caused to rotate in the same direction and at the same speed by connecting them with a continuous belt (or loop) 39 which is in close contact with the pulleys 35.
  • the pulleys 36 are mounted on a support bar 41 movable along rails 43. By reason of the large friction between the pulleys 35 and the fabric 5, the fabric feeding system 31 sets a limit on the speed of movement of the fabric 5 which is drawn by the abrasion rollers 45.
  • the abrasion unit 21 is provided with an abrasion roller 45 and a relief bearing roller 47.
  • Fabric 5 to be treated passes through rollers 49a, 49b, 49c and 49d.
  • the fabric 5 is abraded when it comes into contact with the outer circumferential surface of the abrasion roller 45, which is provided with abrasive materials.
  • the fabric 5 is in contact with the abrasion roller 45 over about half of its outer circumferential surface, which will give the treated fabric a generally more worn out effect. If this is not desired, the fabric 5 may be caused to pass through rollers 49a, 49e, 49f and 49d, in which case the fabric is shown as the phantom line in Fig. 4. In such an arrangement, the fabric 5 only comes into contact with the abrasion roller 45 at substantially one point, i.e. where the abrasion roller 45 is nearest to the relief bearing roller 47.
  • the relief bearing roller 47 is provided with patterns of high and low areas on its outer circumferential surface and is driven to rotate along its longitudinal surface by a motor 51.
  • the speed of rotation of the relief bearing roller 47 is so adjusted that, at or near the point or region of contact with the fabric 5, the relative velocity between the fabric 5 and the relief bearing roller 47 is substantially zero.
  • the general degree of pressure exerted by the relief bearing roller 47 upon the fabric 5 may also be regulated by adjusting the position of the bracket 53, to which the relief bearing roller 47 is secured.
  • the displacement of the bracket 53 is less than 0.1mm between its two extreme positions.
  • springs 48 are provided.
  • the springs 48 will act as a buffer and cause the bracket 53 and the associated relief bearing roller 47 to be slightly displaced away from she abrasion roller 45, thus avoiding any damage to the abrasion units 21, 23 and 25. This arrangement is also beneficial and effective when the fabric 5 to be treated is not even enough.
  • abrasion unit 23 provides a continuous relief bearing sheet 55 mounted for movement on rollers 57a, 57b, 57c, 57d and 57e, against which the abrasion roller 45 abrades the fabric 5.
  • This invention may also be practised by providing the abrasion unit 25 with one or more pressure applying elements 57, e.g. finger-like members.
  • the movement of such elements 57 are programmed so that each of them may independently be caused to move towards or away from the abrasion roller 45 and thus to exert different degrees of pressure onto the fabric 5 as and when required.
  • This arrangement may be used in producing random-like surface wear, shading or patterns.
  • a delivery system generally designated as 59 for transporting abrasion rollers 45 to and from the abrasion units 21, 23 and 25.
  • the delivery system 59 is shown in Fig. 2 as including six pairs of support members 61 mounted on a continuous chain 63 for movement around rollers 65, and three lifting apparatus 67. It should of course be understood that the number of pairs of support members 61 and lifting apparatus 67 may vary according to actual needs.
  • FIG. 5 is a plan view of a part of the arrangement showing each abrasion roller 45 supported at its either end by a pair of support members 61.
  • Each support member 61 comprises a pair of support elements 69 carried by a generally trapezoidal plate 71. The pair of support elements 69 protrude away from the direction of the chain 63 to which the respective plate 71 is attached.
  • the plate 71 is attached to the chain 63 via a bolt 73 which allows the plate 71 to swivel generally about the bolt 73.
  • the support element 69 is connected to the plate 71 via a bolt 75 which allows the support element 69 to rotate generally about the bolt 75.
  • the centre of gravity of the assembly will be below the bolt 73. There is thus avoided the possibility of the abrasion roller 45 being dislodged from the support members 61.
  • the delivery system 59 also includes a number of lifting apparatus 67 shown in more detail in Fig. 8.
  • the lifting apparatus 67 includes a platform 77 in a generally inverted "h" shape.
  • the leg 79 of the platform 77 is secured to a chain 81 wound for movement on two rollers 83a and 83b.
  • the roller 83a is connected to and driven by a motor 85. By adjusting the direction of movement of the roller 83a, the platform 77 can be caused to move upward or downward, as desired.
  • the abrasion roller 45 can be released from the abrasion unit 21, 23 or 25 onto the platform 77 and lowered onto the support members 61 for maintenance or replacement of abrasive materials.
  • the chain 63 is then caused to move the abrasion roller 45 so released away and another abrasion roller 45 which is in order for abrasion is moved to the required position and lifted up to the required height by the platform 77 for engagement with the abrasion unit 21, 23 or 25.
  • Such an arrangement greatly enhances the speed of assembly and release of abrasion rollers 45 from the abrasion units 21, 23 and 25 and efficiency of operation is increased.
  • Fig. 9 shows the end view of a driving head 87 associated with one end of the abrasion roller 45.
  • the driving head 87 comprises a spindle 89 surrounded by four equally distributed protruding ends 91. As can be seen from Fig. 10, each protruding end 91 sits on an outwardly biassed spring 93.
  • the driving head 87 is driven by a motor (not shown) and rotatable along the spindle 89.
  • the driving head 87 is arranged to engage one end of the abrasion roller 45 shown in Figs. 11 and 12.
  • the end of the abrasion roller 45 shown in Figs. 11 and 12 includes a hole 95 surrounded by four equally distributed abutment members 97.
  • the spindle 89 is received into the hole 95 and each of the protruding ends 91 will come into contact with a respective abutment member 97 after, at most, a quarter-revolution. Rotation of the driving head 87 will thus bring about a corresponding rotation of the abrasion roller 45.
  • the other end of the abrasion roller 45 is connected to a support head 99 shown in Fig. 13.
  • the support head 99 comprises a spindle 101 including a number of ball bearings 103 received in a groove 105 on the surface of a cylindrical member 107 carried by the support head 99.
  • Each ball bearing 103 is urged away from the cylindrical member 107 by a respective outwardly biassed spring 109.
  • As the outside width of the groove 105 is smaller than the diameter of the ball bearings 103, while the ball bearings 103 are prevented from dislodgement from the cylindrical member 107, a part of each ball bearing 103 is exposed to the outside environment and raised above the outer circumferential surface of the cylindrical member 107.
  • Fig. 14 shows the end of the abrasion roller 45 to which the support head 99 is engaged.
  • the engagement between this end of the abrasion roller 45 and the support head 99 is by a simple snap fit action whereby the ball bearings 103 are received in the circular recess 111. Disengagement of the two parts is effected by simply pulling the two parts apart.
  • this invention provides a method and an apparatus whereby fabric on the roll or in the piece may be mechanically abraded with the resultant treated fabric displaying pre-determined characteristics.
  • the disclosed method also avoids the use of water and chemicals which would be harmful to the environment.
EP94304242A 1994-06-13 1994-06-13 Procédé et dispositif pour l'abrasion mécanique d'une étoffe Withdrawn EP0687759A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP94304242A EP0687759A1 (fr) 1994-06-13 1994-06-13 Procédé et dispositif pour l'abrasion mécanique d'une étoffe

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP94304242A EP0687759A1 (fr) 1994-06-13 1994-06-13 Procédé et dispositif pour l'abrasion mécanique d'une étoffe

Publications (1)

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EP0687759A1 true EP0687759A1 (fr) 1995-12-20

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EP94304242A Withdrawn EP0687759A1 (fr) 1994-06-13 1994-06-13 Procédé et dispositif pour l'abrasion mécanique d'une étoffe

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001063034A1 (fr) * 2000-02-25 2001-08-30 H.T.P. S.R.L. Machine et procede de traitement decoratif par abrasion de tissus et analogue

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3769058A (en) * 1970-04-03 1973-10-30 Glanzstoff Ag Apparatus and method of patterning sheet material
US3818554A (en) * 1972-01-31 1974-06-25 Curtis Marble Machine Co Pattern shearing device for pile fabrics
FR2415161A1 (fr) * 1978-01-23 1979-08-17 Larusmiani Spa Procede et appareil pour le finissage superficiel de tissus et similaires
FR2628762A1 (fr) * 1988-03-18 1989-09-22 Saligny Claude Procede d'obtention de motifs suivant un dessin predetermine a la surface d'articles textiles ou materiaux similaires et installation pour sa mise en oeuvre
US4912056A (en) * 1987-09-15 1990-03-27 Ecolab Inc. Treatment of denim with cellulase to produce a stone washed appearance
US5114426A (en) * 1988-12-28 1992-05-19 Atochem North America, Inc. Chemical stonewash methods for treating fabrics
DE4211000A1 (de) * 1992-04-02 1993-10-07 Nakagawa Seisakusho Mie Kk Schervorrichtung

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3769058A (en) * 1970-04-03 1973-10-30 Glanzstoff Ag Apparatus and method of patterning sheet material
US3818554A (en) * 1972-01-31 1974-06-25 Curtis Marble Machine Co Pattern shearing device for pile fabrics
FR2415161A1 (fr) * 1978-01-23 1979-08-17 Larusmiani Spa Procede et appareil pour le finissage superficiel de tissus et similaires
US4912056A (en) * 1987-09-15 1990-03-27 Ecolab Inc. Treatment of denim with cellulase to produce a stone washed appearance
US4912056B1 (en) * 1987-09-15 1997-04-01 Ivax Ind Inc Treatment of denim with cellulase to produce a stone washed appearance
FR2628762A1 (fr) * 1988-03-18 1989-09-22 Saligny Claude Procede d'obtention de motifs suivant un dessin predetermine a la surface d'articles textiles ou materiaux similaires et installation pour sa mise en oeuvre
US5114426A (en) * 1988-12-28 1992-05-19 Atochem North America, Inc. Chemical stonewash methods for treating fabrics
DE4211000A1 (de) * 1992-04-02 1993-10-07 Nakagawa Seisakusho Mie Kk Schervorrichtung

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001063034A1 (fr) * 2000-02-25 2001-08-30 H.T.P. S.R.L. Machine et procede de traitement decoratif par abrasion de tissus et analogue

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