Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
  • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
  • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a process for the oxidative coloring of hair, in which an optimal color balance between the hairline on the one hand and hair lengths and hair tips on the other hand is achieved.
• Oxidation hair colorants consist of two components which are mixed shortly before use and then applied to the hair to be colored.
• the first component the dye carrier
• the second component is usually an aqueous, emulsion-like or also a powder-like product in which a suitable oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, is contained.
• the color result and the color levelness of an oxidative hair color is not only dependent on the composition of the colorants and the dyeing process, but in particular on the hair quality which changes from the hairline to the porous hair tips.
• the degree of damage to the hair generally increases with increasing hair length, starting from the roots up to the tips.
• Such hair damage is also present in human hair that has already been oxidatively colored several times.
• the hair lengths and hair tips are oxidatively damaged by the coloring, while the hairline (hair growth) is not damaged.
• the dye carrier is first mixed with a hydrogen peroxide preparation and the mixture is then applied to the hairline, where it is left to act for about 15 to 45 minutes.
• the mixture is then distributed, for example with a comb, into the hair lengths and hair tips, where they are left to act for a further 2 to 8 minutes. Then the hair is rinsed with water and dried.
• a process for the oxidative dyeing of hair based on a dye carrier mass F, which contains a developer substance-coupler substance combination and which is used after mixing with an oxidizing agent, in which a first Step the dye carrier mass F is mixed with a preparation A containing an oxidizing agent and then the mixture FA thus obtained is applied to the hairline (hair growth) and allowed to act and in a second step the dye carrier mass F is mixed with a preparation B containing an oxidizing agent and then the mixture FB thus obtained is applied to the hair lengths and hair tips and allowed to act, the preparation B having a more acidic pH than the preparation A, and finally rinsing the hair with water, optionally aftertreated and then drying, the task set being convincing is solved.
• the new hair coloring process achieves an excellent color balance between hairline, hair lengths and hair tips as well as a very good durability of the hair coloring.
• the dye carrier mass F used in the process according to the invention is a dye carrier mass which is customary for oxidative hair dyeing and which comprises at least one coupler substance and at least one developer substance and, if appropriate, additionally contains self-coupling color precursors and absorbing dyes directly on the hair.
• the developer and coupler substances are used in the dye carrier composition either as such or in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, for example as chloride, sulfate, phosphate, acetate, propionate, lactate or citrate.
• the coupler substances are generally used in an approximately molar amount, based on the developer substances used. Even if the equimolar use proves to be expedient, it is not disadvantageous if the coupler substance is used in a certain excess or deficit. Furthermore, it is not necessary for the developer component and the coupler component to be uniform products; rather, both the developer component can be a mixture of known developer substances and the coupler component can be a mixture of known coupler substances.
• 1-naphthol, 4-methoxy-1-naph ol, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2-amino come from the known coupler substances as constituent of the color carrier mass F -4- ((2'-hydroxyethyl) amino) anisole, 2-amino-4-ethylamino-anisole, 2,4-diaminobenzyl alcohol, m-phenylenediamine, 5-amino-2-ethylphenol, 2,4- Diaminophenoxyethanol, m-aminophenol, 3-amino-4-chloro-6-i ⁇ iethylphenol, 3-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxyphenoxyethanol, 4-hydroxy-l, 2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4-amino- 1,2-methylenedioxybenzene, 4- ((2'-Hydroxyethyl) amino) -1,2-
• the dye carrier composition F contains developer substances, in particular 1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diaminobenzyl alcohol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -1, 4-diaminobenzene, 4-aminophenol , 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-ethoxymethylphenol as well as tetraaminopyridine or their physiologically compatible, water-soluble salts.
• developer substances in particular 1,4-diaminobenzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diaminobenzyl alcohol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -1, 4-diaminobenzene, 4-aminophenol , 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl
• the developer substances and the coupler substances are contained in the dye carrier mass F in an amount of 0.01 to 8.0 percent by weight, preferably 0.02 to 4.0 percent by weight.
• the total amount of developer-coupler-substance combination contained in the dye carrier mass F described here should be about 0.01 to 12.0 percent by weight, but preferably 0.2 to 6.0 percent by weight.
• the dye carrier mass F can also contain other color components, for example the self-coupling dyes 6-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino5-ethoxyphenol and 2-amino-5-methylphenol and also conventional direct dyes, for example triphenylmethane dyes such as diamond Fuchsine (CI 42 510) and Leather Ruby HF (CI 42 520), aromatic nitro dyes such as 2-nitro-l, 4-diamino-benzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitro-6 -chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-nitrotoluene.
• the self-coupling dyes 6-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino5-ethoxyphenol and 2-amino-5-methylphenol and also conventional direct dyes, for example triphenylmethane dyes such as
• the total amount of the self-coupling and direct dyes in the dye carrier mass F is 0.01 to 6.0 percent by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4.0 percent by weight.
• the coupler and developer substances as well as the other color components mentioned above, if they are bases can also be in the form of the physiologically compatible acid addition salts, such as hydrochlorides or sulfates or - if they are aromatic OH- Have groups - in the form of the salts with bases, for example as alkali phenolates, used in the dye carrier mass F.
• the dye carrier mass F may also contain other customary cosmetic additives, for example antioxidants such as ascorbic acid, thioglycolic acid or sodium sulfite, perfume oils, complexing agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, care agents and others.
• the preparation form of the dye carrier mass F described here can be, for example, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution.
• the particularly preferred preparation forms are a cream, a gel or an emulsion.
• Their composition represents a mixture of the dye components with the additives customary for such preparations.
• Usual additives in solutions, creams, emulsions or gels are, for example, solvents such as water, lower aliphatic mono- or polyhydric alcohols, for example ethanol, propanol and isopropanol, or glycols such as glycerol and 1,2-propylene glycol, furthermore wetting agents or Emulsifiers from the classes of the anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surface-active substances such as fatty alcohol sulfates, ethoxylated fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol oxethanesulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkyltrimethylammonium salts, alkylbetaines, oxethylated Fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty alcohol, ethoxylated nonylphenols,
• constituents mentioned are used in the amounts customary for such purposes, for example the wetting agents and emulsifiers in concentrations of about 0.5 to 30 percent by weight, the thickeners in an amount of about 0.1 to 25 percent by weight and the care substances in one Concentration from about 0.1 to 5.0 percent by weight.
• the dye carrier mass F has a pH of 8 to 13, preferably 8.0 to 12.5, the adjustment preferably being carried out with ammonia.
• organic amines for example monoethanolamine and triethanolamine, or else inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide can also be used.
• the dye carrier mass F described above is mixed with the preparation A or B containing an oxidizing agent immediately before use, and an amount sufficient for the hair dye treatment, depending on the fullness of the hair, is generally about 60 to 200 g , this mixture according to the inventive method on the hair.
• the main oxidizing agents used to develop hair color are hydrogen peroxide or its Addition compounds to urea, melanin or sodium borate are considered, with hydrogen peroxide being preferred.
• Preparations A or B may contain conventional ingredients for such compositions, such as, for example, organic or inorganic acids, stabilizers, opacifiers, thickeners, emulsifiers and perfume oils.
• the preparation A is adjusted to a pH of 2.3 to 5, preferably 2.3 to 4.0, while the preparation B a pH of 0.8 to 3, preferably 0.8 to 2, 5 has.
• the pH of the preparations A or B is adjusted by adding physiologically compatible organic or inorganic acids, with phosphoric acid being preferred. This can also be used in combination with primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates.
• Preparation A contains more oxidizing agent than preparation B.
• the oxidizing agent With hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent, its content in preparation A is 2.0 to 12 percent by weight, preferably 3.0 to 9 percent by weight, while preparation B preferably 0.1 to 6 percent by weight ⁇ as 0.2 to 3.0 weight percent, contains hydrogen peroxide.
• the dye carrier mass F is mixed with the preparations A or B containing an oxidizing agent mixed in a ratio of about 4: 1 to 1: 4, with a mixing ratio of about 1: 1 being preferred.
• the pH value of the dye carrier mass F is reduced by mixing with the preparations A or B, the lowering of the pH value in connection with preparation B being greater.
• the pH of the mixtures FA and FB is between 7.5 and 13, the pH of the mixture FA being 0.5 to 1.5 higher than the pH of the mixture FB.
• the low pH of the FB mixture means that the ammonia content in this mixture, based on the colorant F, is reduced by about 30 to 80%.
• the higher ammonia content of the mixture FA acts only on the hairline (hair growth), that is, where the hair is undamaged and more ammonia is required for coloring and brightening.
• the mixture FA is applied to the hairline (new hair) and the mixture FB to the hair lengths and hair tips.
• the mixture FA is allowed to act on the hair for about 15 to 45 minutes and the mixture FB for about 2 to 20 minutes at a dyeing temperature of 15 to 45 ° C.
• the two mixtures FA and FB are distributed and mixed throughout the hair by combing or emulsifying and then rinsed out of the hair with water.
• the hair is washed with a shampoo and possibly aftertreated with a weak organic acid, such as citric acid or tartaric acid.
• a weak organic acid such as citric acid or tartaric acid.
• the hair is then dried. It has taken on a uniform color from the hairline to the ends of the hair.
• the pH was adjusted to 3.5 with dilute phosphoric acid.
• the pH is 1.5 Examples of hair coloring procedures
• the dye carrier mass F1 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation A, so that the mixture FIA is formed.
• the dye carrier mass F1 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation B, so that the mixture FIB is formed.
• the pH of the mixture FIA is 10.4, while the mixture FIB has a pH of 9.4.
• the FIA mixture is applied to the hairline (hair regrowth) of gold-orange colored hair 4 weeks ago and left to act at room temperature for 20 minutes. 7 minutes before the end of the exposure time of the mixture FIA, the mixture FIB is applied to the lengths and tips of the hair and allowed to act. After these 7 minutes, the mixtures FIA and FIB are rinsed out with water and the hair is dried.
• the hair has taken on a very balanced golden orange color, which has excellent stability against shampoo treatments.
• the dye carrier mass F2 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation A, so that the mixture F2A is formed.
• the dye carrier mass F2 is mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with the preparation B, so that the mixture F2B is formed.
• the pH of the mixture F2A is 10.5, while the mixture F2B has a pH of 9.5.
• the mixture F2A is applied to the Hairline (hair growth) of a hair dyed red 4 weeks ago and leaves it to act at room temperature for 30 minutes. 10 minutes before the end of the exposure time of the mixture F2A, the mixture F2B is applied to the lengths and tips of the hair and allowed to act.
• the two mixtures F2A and F2B are distributed throughout the hair by emulsification and then rinsed out immediately.
• the emulsification process takes about 1 minute. After drying, the hair has taken on a balanced, intense red color from the hairline to the hair tips, which has excellent stability with respect to shampoo treatments.

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• 1991
  • 1991-07-19 DE DE19914123941 patent/DE4123941A1/de not_active Withdrawn
• 1992
  • 1992-06-25 JP JP50253993A patent/JPH06501034A/ja active Pending
  • 1992-06-25 EP EP19920913120 patent/EP0548307A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1992-06-25 WO PCT/EP1992/001431 patent/WO1993001792A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1992-06-25 ES ES92913120T patent/ES2040197T1/es active Pending
  • 1992-06-25 BR BR9205371A patent/BR9205371A/pt not_active Application Discontinuation

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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