EP0407246B1 - Einlage, bestimmt für die Bekleidungsindustrie - Google Patents

Einlage, bestimmt für die Bekleidungsindustrie Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0407246B1
EP0407246B1 EP90401690A EP90401690A EP0407246B1 EP 0407246 B1 EP0407246 B1 EP 0407246B1 EP 90401690 A EP90401690 A EP 90401690A EP 90401690 A EP90401690 A EP 90401690A EP 0407246 B1 EP0407246 B1 EP 0407246B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
foam
layer
insert
fabric substrate
polymers
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP90401690A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0407246A1 (de
Inventor
Christian Paire
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lainiere de Picardie SA
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Original Assignee
Lainiere de Picardie SA
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lainiere de Picardie SA, Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS filed Critical Lainiere de Picardie SA
Publication of EP0407246A1 publication Critical patent/EP0407246A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0407246B1 publication Critical patent/EP0407246B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06NWALL, FLOOR, OR LIKE COVERING MATERIALS, e.g. LINOLEUM, OILCLOTH, ARTIFICIAL LEATHER, ROOFING FELT, CONSISTING OF A FIBROUS WEB COATED WITH A LAYER OF MACROMOLECULAR MATERIAL; FLEXIBLE SHEET MATERIAL NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06N3/00Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof
    • D06N3/0043Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by their foraminous structure; Characteristics of the foamed layer or of cellular layers
    • D06N3/0045Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof characterised by their foraminous structure; Characteristics of the foamed layer or of cellular layers obtained by applying a ready-made foam layer; obtained by compressing, crinkling or crushing a foam layer, e.g. Kaschierverfahren für Schaumschicht
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • A41D27/06Stiffening-pieces
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M17/00Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
    • D06M17/04Producing multi-layer textile fabrics by applying synthetic resins as adhesives
    • D06M17/10Polyurethanes polyurea

Definitions

  • an insert constitutes the semi-permeable barrier of the garment. This insert is then produced by assembly, most often by bonding a semi-permeable film on a textile support.
  • the semi-permeable film has mechanical properties (elasticity, tensile strength, shrinkage at temperature or maintenance) different from those of the textile support on which it is generally bonded. These differences in behavior act directly on the interface of the textile support and of the film and quickly lead to localized ruptures of the adhesive which can lead to total decohesion.
  • the objective of the invention is the production of an insert which does not does not have these drawbacks, allows the production of a textile whose properties can be controlled, which has a pleasant feel and surface appearance, and satisfies all the conditions necessary for the use of a textile in the clothing sector. that is to say sufficient mechanical strength, resistance to maintenance by dry cleaning, by washing, resistance to the abrasion and friction stresses which occur when wearing the garment.
  • the invention therefore relates to a breathable and waterproof insert intended for the clothing industry which comprises a microporous layer of polymers.
  • the microporous layer is produced in the form of a stable foam and said layer is mechanically reinforced by a textile substrate.
  • Inserts are commonly used to be mounted inside the garments, so as to modify the qualities and specific properties of the drapery itself. They are most often placed between the drapery and the lining.
  • the inserts can be mounted flying, they are then joined by their periphery to the drapery or the lining. They can also be laminated to the drapery or lining. In the latter case, a point bonding is preferably used which makes it possible to give the garment good flexibility and a pleasant touch.
  • the insert of the invention comprises a microporous layer 1 of polymers, these polymers are in the form of a stable foam and this layer is mechanically reinforced by a textile substrate 2.
  • the foam layer is mechanically reinforced by a textile substrate 2 which it most often completely impregnates.
  • a textile substrate 2 which it most often completely impregnates.
  • the textile substrate 2 it is possible, by the choice of the textile substrate 2 to control the tensile or tear strength of the moment.
  • a textile substrate 2 having the same type of elasticity will be used to reinforce the microporous layer 1 of polymers, in the form of foam.
  • the textile substrate 2 has a low grammage, for example from 10 to 50 g / m2, preferably between 20 and 80 g / m.
  • the insert thus produced will then have good mechanical strength without its grammage becoming significant.
  • the textile substrate 2 can also be a nonwoven, a textile woven or knitted. It is preferable that its texture is open so as to allow and facilitate the penetration of the foam during manufacture.
  • the textile substrate can be a woven knit as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • two microporous layers 1 of polymers in the form of foam are each applied to one side of the textile substrate 2, thus achieving complete insertion of the textile substrate 2 into the polymer foam.
  • the textile substrate 2 may also have several components so as to give the insert no longer an elasticity but a resiliency factor, for example in the direction of the weft.
  • the properties of the textile substrate 2 also make it possible to determine the clothing qualities of the insert. It is also possible to limit the penetration of the foam into the textile substrate so as to leave one of its faces intact. Scratching or emerying of the intact surface allows the insert to have the corresponding clothing feel and increases its resistance to abrasion.
  • thermoadhesive insert a thermoadhesive layer for example distributed by points is deposited on one or the other of the faces of the insert.
  • thermo-adhesive layer is discontinuous and can be sprayed.
  • the polymers commonly used as adhesives in the textile field can be used here whether they are thermoplastic or thermosetting (polyethylene, polyester, polyamide, polyurethane ).
  • a stable foam is first produced from a mixture of polymers and water.
  • a layer of the polymer foam is then brought into contact with a textile substrate 2.
  • the layer of polymer foam is dried and finally passes the product obtained through a cold calender 3 so as to crush the structure of the foam in order to improve the cohesion of the foam on the textile substrate and the abrasion resistance of the complex.
  • the textile substrate 2 can be supported by a continuous non-stick support 4.
  • Continuous support is a carpet circulating in a closed loop at constant speed around the roller 8, 9.
  • This coating will be carried out by the methods themselves known, either by application to the rotary frame or by scraping using a knife.
  • This last technique makes it possible to apply a variable thickness of foam by acting on the distance between the knife and the support according to the foam in a first embodiment of the invention , the polymer foam is spread directly on the textile substrate 2.
  • the assembly then passes through one or more ovens 6, 7 so as to produce a first slow drying phase at around 100 ° C. and then a second drying phase at a temperature between 120 ° C and 130 ° C so as to consolidate the structure of the foam.
  • the microporous structure is then dry and stable, as indicated above, the complex then passes through a cold calender 3.
  • the pressure exerted on the calender makes it possible to define the degree of penetration of the textile substrate 2 into the polymer foam.
  • the calendering is intended to exert pressure on the composite and to make the foam layer penetrate the textile substrate 2. This operation can also be carried out by a scarf.
  • a layer of stable polymer foam is produced on a non-adherent mat 4 and the textile substrate 2 is calendered on the layer of foam.
  • This calendering can be carried out on the stable foam which is still wet, before any drying or, on the contrary, after the first drying phase at 100 ° C. in the latter embodiment shown in FIG. 5, the microporous layer 1 is brought into contact with the textile substrate 2 between the oven 6 which is at 100 ° C and the oven 7 at 130 ° C.
  • two layers of foam 2a, 2b are simultaneously deposited each on one face of a textile substrate 2 by a double rotary frame with foam rakes 5a, 5b.
  • This substrate is then completely embedded in the foam.
  • the flame retardant qualities of the insert are sought. They can be obtained by the choice of each of the components.
  • the textile substrate is then fire resistant and a layer of fire retardant is added to the foam layer.
  • the hydrophobic properties of the insert can be improved by passing the entire composite through a water-repellent solution before padding.
  • the polymer foam can have a density of about 200g / l. Then, the application of 50 to 100g of foam per m2 produces a layer having a thickness of between 0.5 and 1mm.
  • a textile substrate 2 consisting of a textured knit with weft insertion based on textured polyesters with a grammage of 40 g / m2 having an elasticity of 30% in the weft direction makes it possible to obtain an elastic insert in the weft direction.
  • the coating can be produced with a 14 mesh rotating frame with a 40% coverage rate of the foam stable at 200g / l.
  • the textile substrate 2 is temporarily supported by a non-stick mat.
  • An insert is thus obtained having a dry basis weight of 90 g / m2 and having the desired semi-permeable character. Drying is carried out in stages from 100 ° C to 130 ° C.
  • the insert thus obtained has a waterproofness greater than 1000mm of water, a total impermeability to wind, a resistance to water vapor of 60 to 80 millibars per m2 / w. It has an elasticity in the weft direction of 25 to 30%.

Landscapes

  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
  • Ceramic Products (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Fishing Rods (AREA)
  • Nitrogen And Oxygen Or Sulfur-Condensed Heterocyclic Ring Systems (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Taps Or Cocks (AREA)
  • Glass Compositions (AREA)
  • Extrusion Moulding Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)
  • Moulding By Coating Moulds (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Atmungsaktiver und undurchlässiger, für die Bekleidungsindustrie bestimmter Einsatz mit einer mikroporösen Schicht (1) aus Polymeren, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab die mikroporöse Schicht (1) in Form eines konsistenten Schaums besteht und die besagte Schicht durch ein Textilsubstrat (2) mechanisch verstärkt ist.
  2. Einsatz nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab das Textilsubstrat (2) eine geringe Flächenmasse aufweist, beispielsweise zwischen 10 und 80 g/m>>.
  3. Einsatz nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab das Textilsubstrat (2) ein Strick oder ein Gewebe mit offenem Gewebebild ist.
  4. Einsatz nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab er zwei mikroporöse Schichten (1) aus Polymeren in Form von Schaum aufweist, die sich jeweils auf einer Seite des Textilsubstrats (2) befinden.
  5. Einsatz nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab er mit einer unterbrochenen thermoadhäsiven Schicht überzogen ist.
  6. Einsatz nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab die in dem Schaum enthaltenen Polymere Polyurethane sind, wobei der Schaum ausgehend von einem Polyurethan-Wasser-Gemisch hergestellt wird.
  7. Herstellungsverfahren für einen für die Bekleidungsindustrie bestimmten Einsatz mit einer mikroporösen Schicht (1) aus Polymeren, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab
    - auf der Grundlage eines Polymer-Wasser-Gemischs ein konsistenter Schaum hergestellt wird,
    - eine Schicht des Polymerschaums in Kontakt mit einem Textilsubstrat (2) gebracht wird,
    - der erhaltene Verbundstoff kalt zusammengeprebt wird.
  8. Herstellungsverfahren nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab der Polymerschaum direkt auf das Textilsubstrat (2) aufgebracht wird.
  9. Herstellungsverfahren nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab der Polymerschaum auf ein nicht klebendes Förderband (4) aufgebracht wird und eine Schicht bildet, und dab dann das Textilsubstrat (2) durch Glätten mit der Schaumschicht in Kontakt gebracht wird.
  10. Herstellungsverfahren nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab die Schaumschicht teilweise getrocknet wird, bevor sie mit dem Textilsubstrat (2) in Kontakt gebracht wird.
  11. Herstellungsverfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dab das Textilsubstrat (2) gleichzeitig mit zwei Polymerschaum Schichten auf jeweils einer seiner Seiten in Kontakt gebracht wird.
EP90401690A 1989-06-26 1990-06-15 Einlage, bestimmt für die Bekleidungsindustrie Expired - Lifetime EP0407246B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8908461 1989-06-26
FR8908461A FR2648832B1 (fr) 1989-06-26 1989-06-26 Insert destine a l'industrie vestimentaire

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0407246A1 EP0407246A1 (de) 1991-01-09
EP0407246B1 true EP0407246B1 (de) 1995-01-25

Family

ID=9383107

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90401690A Expired - Lifetime EP0407246B1 (de) 1989-06-26 1990-06-15 Einlage, bestimmt für die Bekleidungsindustrie

Country Status (11)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0407246B1 (de)
JP (1) JPH0340803A (de)
AT (1) ATE117514T1 (de)
CA (1) CA2019629C (de)
DE (1) DE69016287T2 (de)
DK (1) DK0407246T3 (de)
ES (1) ES2067706T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2648832B1 (de)
GR (1) GR3015525T3 (de)
IE (1) IE65865B1 (de)
PT (1) PT94483B (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2226569A1 (es) * 2003-07-04 2005-03-16 Pedro Monagas Asensio Elemento de proteccion laminar.

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2724186B1 (fr) * 1994-09-02 1997-09-19 Picardie Lainiere Procede de fabrication d'un support textile composite destine au renfort d'une ceinture et support textile composite ainsi obtenu
FR2786370B1 (fr) * 1998-11-27 2001-04-27 Picardie Lainiere Insert imper-respirant, ses utilisations dans des articles d'habillement, article d'habillement comportant un tel insert imper-respirant
DE102015005089A1 (de) 2015-04-22 2016-10-27 Carl Freudenberg Kg Thermisch fixierbares Flächengebilde

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE939404C (de) * 1950-12-12 1956-02-23 Bayer Ag Verfahren zur Herstellung von Schaumstoffprodukten mit verfestigenden Einlagen bzw. Auflagen
BE636592A (de) * 1962-09-18
DE1685421A1 (de) * 1965-03-10 1969-11-06 Kokoku Kakaku Kogyo Kabushiki Verfahren zum Herstellen von Schuhwerk mit Sohlen aus Polyurethan-Schaumstoff

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2226569A1 (es) * 2003-07-04 2005-03-16 Pedro Monagas Asensio Elemento de proteccion laminar.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2067706T3 (es) 1995-04-01
IE902281A1 (en) 1991-01-16
ATE117514T1 (de) 1995-02-15
CA2019629C (fr) 1998-12-01
DE69016287T2 (de) 1995-05-24
PT94483A (pt) 1992-01-31
DE69016287D1 (de) 1995-03-09
IE65865B1 (en) 1995-11-29
FR2648832B1 (fr) 1991-09-20
FR2648832A1 (fr) 1990-12-28
EP0407246A1 (de) 1991-01-09
IE902281L (en) 1990-12-26
JPH0340803A (ja) 1991-02-21
PT94483B (pt) 1997-04-30
GR3015525T3 (en) 1995-06-30
CA2019629A1 (fr) 1990-12-26
DK0407246T3 (da) 1995-05-01

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