EP0399072B1 - Bijou - Google Patents

Bijou Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0399072B1
EP0399072B1 EP89109305A EP89109305A EP0399072B1 EP 0399072 B1 EP0399072 B1 EP 0399072B1 EP 89109305 A EP89109305 A EP 89109305A EP 89109305 A EP89109305 A EP 89109305A EP 0399072 B1 EP0399072 B1 EP 0399072B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
layer
metal
jewelry
jewellery
jewellery item
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP89109305A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0399072A1 (fr
Inventor
Jürgen Bock
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Bock and Schupp GmbH and Co KG Zifferblatter Fabrik
Original Assignee
Bock and Schupp GmbH and Co KG Zifferblatter Fabrik
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Bock and Schupp GmbH and Co KG Zifferblatter Fabrik filed Critical Bock and Schupp GmbH and Co KG Zifferblatter Fabrik
Priority to AT89109305T priority Critical patent/ATE83134T1/de
Priority to ES198989109305T priority patent/ES2036295T3/es
Priority to DE8989109305T priority patent/DE58902973D1/de
Priority to EP89109305A priority patent/EP0399072B1/fr
Priority to US07/367,884 priority patent/US5087528A/en
Publication of EP0399072A1 publication Critical patent/EP0399072A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0399072B1 publication Critical patent/EP0399072B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/006—Metallic coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a disc-shaped flat or structured metallic piece of jewelry or part of a piece of jewelry, also brand, medal, dial, with one or both sides processing, which is provided on one or both sides with one or more in turn uniform or structured chemically different type of layer.
  • Such metallic disc-shaped pieces of jewelry belong to the permanent holdings of the jewelry industry. They are worn as a single piece of jewelry, for example as earrings, or form part of a jewelry creation, for example in necklaces or bracelets.
  • the surface of these metallic disc-shaped pieces of jewelry is processed in many ways, the platelets either being flat, mirror-polished or structured on their surface.
  • the material for these plates ranges from aluminum to precious metals.
  • the noble metals, especially silver and gold, are generally left in their metal color. Anodizing in a wide variety of colors has prevailed for aluminum. The same applies to the electroplating of titanium.
  • metals with hard surfaces are preferred, in general surface-tempered metals in order to maintain the mirror gloss for as long as possible.
  • hard materials such as carbides, nitrides, borides and silicides are relatively difficult to process.
  • Pieces of jewelry made from these materials are therefore relatively expensive and have so far not been able to be compared to the metals mentioned above, in particular the precious metals which are roughly equivalent in price, as pieces of jewelry push through.
  • mirror-finished metal surfaces with a roughness depth below the above-mentioned limit of 1 x 10 ⁇ 6m have very interesting optical properties, especially for the jewelry sector. These properties, which make them wished pieces of jewelry, could then also be enriched by a further additional surface treatment, for example structuring or coating, in order to achieve further optical effects, by a further interesting or decorative effect.
  • the disk-shaped metal piece is a single crystal and that the different type of layer has a thickness of 0.01 x 10 ⁇ 6m to 2 x 10 ⁇ 6m.
  • single crystals seems to contradict the first point of the list above - value for money.
  • single crystals not only have special properties that facilitate the further treatment of these disc-shaped metallic pieces of jewelry and thus make them cheaper, but they are now also required in very large quantities and are therefore inexpensive to produce on an industrial scale.
  • a single crystal is a crystalline body, whose basic cells are almost parallel and have no grain boundaries. This property can be exploited in the manufacture of such jewelry by placing the plane of the disk-shaped jewelry in the crystal plane. Therefore, striking light is always reflected in the desired way with the same inclination, while in the multi-crystal each individual crystal (grain) reflects the light in a different direction.
  • Desired reflecting surfaces can therefore be achieved with such a single crystal much more easily and with a significantly lower surface roughness than with multi-crystals or amorphous metals.
  • roughness depths in the nano range can be achieved with such single crystals, down to approximately 5 ⁇ 10 ⁇ m. Even roughness depths that are significantly above this size, for example 200 x 10 ⁇ 9m, are still recognized as perfectly reflective due to the effect described above. The somewhat larger manufacturing effort for single crystals is therefore compensated for during further processing and also produces the desired light-optical effects which cannot be achieved with polycrystalline material.
  • both sides of such a silicon wafer can easily be processed without loss of quality.
  • This jewelry value is increased according to the invention in that the single crystals on one or both sides with one or more in turn uniform or structured chemically different types of layers are each provided with a layer thickness of 0.01 x 10 ⁇ 6m to 2 x 10 ⁇ 6m. It is known from theory that extremely thin layers below a layer thickness of 2 ⁇ 10 ⁇ m have special properties. This should be related to a strong increase in the refractive index with decreasing layer thickness and a simultaneous decrease in the absorption coefficient. Multiple reflections both on the surface and after the translucent thin layer on the crystal plane result in interferences that produce remarkable optical reflections. In any case, such extremely thin layers show special optical properties that make them seem suitable for processing into jewelry.
  • the chemically different layer which is to be applied to the polished single crystal according to the invention can be made of a metal or a metal compound in the manner according to the invention.
  • the metal should have a high complex refractive index, which is generally the case for the hard materials mentioned above - carbides, nitrites, borides and silicides. This is also true for semiconductors, in this case in particular silicon.
  • the inexpensive production again plays a role, which is why oxygen or nitrogen is preferably chosen as the connecting partner in the manner according to the invention.
  • the layer is achieved by directly oxidizing or nitriding the single crystal on one or both sides.
  • the penetration depth of oxygen or nitrogen can be controlled very precisely, and of course the thickness of this layer, which is decisive for the coloring.
  • this chemically different layer by the chemical vapor deposition method (CVD; LPCVD; PECVD; NPCVD). Both methods can also be used in combination, for example in that the single crystal is oxidized, then preferably structured in the etching process and then covered with a further layer, this further layer also being structured or covering only certain areas of the disk-shaped single crystal.
  • the oxidation and nitriding processes in succession, for example after the oxidation partially removing the oxide layer and then nitriding the now exposed silicon layers. It is also entirely possible to additionally coat or print the processed disks with customary layers, or in depressions Bring precious metal. It goes without saying that the disks can also be provided with elevations in this way.
  • FIG. 1 shows a single crystal with an oxidized surface
  • FIG. 2 shows a single crystal with an applied layer
  • FIGS. 3 and 4 show a combination of these methods according to FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • a single crystal (1) consisting of silicon is provided with an oxidation layer (2) by oxidation.
  • This oxidation layer (2) has a thickness (a) of 0.01 x 10 ⁇ 6m to 2 x 10 ⁇ 6m, which results in the optical effects or the coloring of the single crystal disc set out in the description.
  • the thickness (b) of this single crystal wafer is on average about 500 x 10 ⁇ 6m.
  • the oxidation layer (2) also causes a very high surface hardness, so that this metallic disc is also very scratch-resistant.
  • the previously polished single crystal disc (1) is preferably in the way of the chemical vapor deposition process, a metal layer or a metal compound layer, again applied in the thickness (a) between 0.01 x 10 ⁇ 6m and 2 x 10 ⁇ 6m.
  • this layer will also diffuse slightly into the silicon single crystal, that is to say it will firmly bond to the single crystal.
  • this applied layer (3) results in surface hardening in addition to the special color effect.
  • the silicon single crystal was first provided with a recess in the etching process and then, as shown in FIG. 1, oxidized.
  • a further metal or metal connection layer (5) is introduced into the remaining depression (4), so that this layer is different in color from the surrounding pane surface.
  • the layer thickness (a) is between 0.01 and 2 ⁇ 10 ⁇ m, as is the layer thickness (c) of the applied layer.
  • the smallest possible distance (d) between the edges of the recess is 2 x 10 ⁇ 6m due to the etching process to be used.
  • a reversal of the process is shown in FIG. 4, where the wafer is first etched in such a way that elevations (5) remain, which can now be nitrided, for example, while the surroundings thereof are oxidized. Of course, this also results in different color effects that make these elevations stand out clearly.
  • this anisotropic material gives rise to further optical effects due to different light incidence angles.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Surface Treatment Of Glass (AREA)
  • Farming Of Fish And Shellfish (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Bijou métallique ou partie d'un bijou (1) sous la forme d'un disque plan ou structuré, ou marque, médaille ou écran, travaillé sur un côté ou sur les deux côtés, qui est pourvu d'un côté ou des deux côtés d'une ou de plusieurs couches (2, 3) chimiquement différentes qui sont à leur tour uniformes ou structurées,
    caractérisé en ce que
    la pièce de métal discoïde est un monocristal (1) et que la couche de nature différente possède une épaisseur (a, C) de 0,01 x 10⁻⁶ m à 2 x 10⁻⁶ m.
  2. Bijou selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la couche (2, 3) chimiquement différente est faite d'un métal ou d'un composé métallique.
  3. Bijou selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le métal ou le composé métallique présente un haut indice de réfraction complexe.
  4. Bijou selon la revendication 2 ou 3, caractérisé en ce que le métal ou le composé métallique est un semi-conducteur.
  5. Bijou selon une des revendications 2 à 4, caractérisé en ce que le partenaire du composé est l'oxygène ou l'azote.
  6. Bijou selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que la couche de composé métallique est une couche superficielle d'oxyde ou de nitrure du monocristal (1).
  7. Bijou selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la couche chimiquement différente est appliquée selon le procédé de dépôt en phase vapeur.
EP89109305A 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Bijou Expired - Lifetime EP0399072B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT89109305T ATE83134T1 (de) 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Schmuckstueck.
ES198989109305T ES2036295T3 (es) 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Pieza de joyeria.
DE8989109305T DE58902973D1 (de) 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Schmuckstueck.
EP89109305A EP0399072B1 (fr) 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Bijou
US07/367,884 US5087528A (en) 1989-05-23 1989-06-19 Fashion article

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP89109305A EP0399072B1 (fr) 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Bijou

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0399072A1 EP0399072A1 (fr) 1990-11-28
EP0399072B1 true EP0399072B1 (fr) 1992-12-09

Family

ID=8201400

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP89109305A Expired - Lifetime EP0399072B1 (fr) 1989-05-23 1989-05-23 Bijou

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US5087528A (fr)
EP (1) EP0399072B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE83134T1 (fr)
DE (1) DE58902973D1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2036295T3 (fr)

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6042797A (en) * 1997-07-02 2000-03-28 Tosoh Corporation Adsorbent for ethylene, method for adsorbing and removing ethylene and method for purifying an exhaust gas
US6794014B2 (en) * 1997-09-30 2004-09-21 Winter Cvd Tecknik Gmbh Gemstone
WO1999055188A1 (fr) * 1998-04-23 1999-11-04 Winter Cvd Technik Gmbh Pierres ornementales
HK1050107A2 (en) * 2002-04-02 2003-05-16 Wallace & Samuel Gallery Ltd Ornamental articles including translucent gems and method of making same
EP2543653B2 (fr) * 2011-07-04 2023-01-11 Comadur S.A. Procédé de fabrication d'une céramique mate non marquante
HK1190568A2 (en) * 2013-05-21 2014-07-04 Master Dynamic Ltd A method and apparatus for frabricating a coloured component for a watch

Family Cites Families (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1891248A (en) * 1932-02-19 1932-12-20 Stamer Morris Cameo
US3414434A (en) * 1965-06-30 1968-12-03 North American Rockwell Single crystal silicon on spinel insulators
US3412575A (en) * 1966-01-18 1968-11-26 Feldman Charles Jewelry article including thin metal and dielectric films
US3922475A (en) * 1970-06-22 1975-11-25 Rockwell International Corp Process for producing nitride films
US3950596A (en) * 1971-12-20 1976-04-13 Astrid Corporation, Limited Altering the appearance of corundum crystals
GB1414864A (en) * 1972-03-27 1975-11-19 Suwa Seikosha Kk Method of producing an externally visible part of a watch
JPS5532021B2 (fr) * 1974-10-26 1980-08-22
FR2547775B1 (fr) * 1983-06-23 1987-12-18 Metalem Sa Procede de decoration d'un article, application d'un procede de traitement d'un element de silicium, utilisation d'une plaque de silicium traitee et article decore
US4490440A (en) * 1983-08-16 1984-12-25 Reber William L High technology jewelry and fabrication of same
US4835061A (en) * 1984-11-09 1989-05-30 Konishiroku Photo Industry Co., Ltd. Conductive laminate
CH664665GA3 (fr) * 1986-06-19 1988-03-31

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US5087528A (en) 1992-02-11
ATE83134T1 (de) 1992-12-15
DE58902973D1 (de) 1993-01-21
EP0399072A1 (fr) 1990-11-28
ES2036295T3 (es) 1993-05-16

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