EP0165380B1 - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Sewing machine Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0165380B1
EP0165380B1 EP85102773A EP85102773A EP0165380B1 EP 0165380 B1 EP0165380 B1 EP 0165380B1 EP 85102773 A EP85102773 A EP 85102773A EP 85102773 A EP85102773 A EP 85102773A EP 0165380 B1 EP0165380 B1 EP 0165380B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sewing machine
rubber band
machine according
presser foot
brake
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP85102773A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0165380A1 (en
Inventor
Helmut Schips
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AT85102773T priority Critical patent/ATE39504T1/en
Publication of EP0165380A1 publication Critical patent/EP0165380A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0165380B1 publication Critical patent/EP0165380B1/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B29/00—Pressers; Presser feet
    • D05B29/06—Presser feet
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/02—Pneumatic or hydraulic devices
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/05—Magnetic devices
    • D05D2207/06—Permanent magnets
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2303/00—Applied objects or articles
    • D05D2303/02—Tape
    • D05D2303/04—Tape elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/08—Cutting the workpiece
    • D05D2305/12—Cutting the workpiece transversally

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a sewing machine for sewing a rubber band to a tubular end portion of a garment made of elastic, textile material to form an endless, elastic waistband, with a presser foot pressing the material against a base and a feed dog for transporting the sewing material, one of the rubber band from the presser foot feeding feed device and a separator for the rubber band.
  • the necessary tension which is also required for sewing the end of the rubber band at the same edge, cannot be maintained either by means of a feed device which is arranged in the known sewing machine between the separating device and the feed device and by means of a working cylinder along the transport path for the rubber band has sliding feed fingers.
  • This feed finger which has the task of feeding the beginning of the rubber band to the presser foot, is lifted off the rubber band during the return stroke.
  • the separation point lies between the effective area of the feed finger and the presser foot, so that the presser foot could not maintain the tension of the separated end section of the rubber band even if it were constantly in contact with the rubber band.
  • the maintenance of the tension of the end section of the rubber band is also not possible by means of a guide device provided on the presser foot in the known sewing machine, which has the task of preventing wrinkling or rolling back of the rubber band during insertion, and for this purpose two spaced apart Has walls, one of which is formed by a hairpin feather.
  • the two walls must not have a clamping effect on the rubber band, since otherwise the beginning of the band could not be inserted between the two walls due to the lack of rigidity of the band.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a sewing machine for automatically sewing a rubber band to a tubular end portion of a garment made of elastic, textile material with the formation of an endless, elastic waistband, by means of which not only an exact, edging sewing of the rubber band is possible, but also sewing the end section under the same conditions as the other sections and joining the beginning and end of the rubber band to form an overlap or a joint.
  • This object is achieved by a sewing machine with the features of claim 1.
  • Such a brake enables controlled feeding of the rubber band even after it has been cut off and released from the feed device, i.e. the end section of the rubber band can also be held under the desired tension until the sewing process is complete and can be fed exactly to the presser foot. This ensures sewing with the same edge. In addition, it is not difficult to sew the beginning and end of the rubber band together with a selectable overlap or to form a butt joint.
  • the brake is designed as a friction brake according to claim 2, the required braking effect can be varied with the aid of the clamping force which the clamping bodies exert on the rubber band.
  • the clamping bodies of the friction brake which are preferably designed as plates, can be provided with corresponding guide elements.
  • the brake is advantageously arranged as close as possible to the presser foot.
  • the counter plate forming the clamping body of the brake, against which a pressure plate forming the other clamping body can be moved is formed by an extension of the presser foot on the fabric inlet side.
  • a pneumatic cylinder is provided as a drive for the pressure plate, both with a view to simple actuation of the preferably pivotally mounted pressure plate and with regard to a possibility of varying the force with which the pressure plate acts on the rubber band.
  • the feed device is advantageously formed by transport rollers which can be driven by means of a stepping motor.
  • a pair of scissors for severing the rubber band is advantageously arranged directly behind the transport rollers. Shortly before the rubber band is cut off at its end, it is caught by the brake.
  • a sensor according to claim 11 is preferably provided to control the scissors and the brake.
  • the sewing process itself can also be controlled by the signal from the sensor, which is preferably a light barrier, ie the sewing process is opened the signal from the sensor continues for a preselectable number of stitches, after which the rubber band is sewn on completely in the desired position and sewn with its beginning. The sewing process is then ended automatically.
  • the presser foot is extended towards the infeed direction of the fabric in order to ensure reliable gripping of the infeed beginning of the elastic band that has already been sewn on.
  • a knife running in the sewing direction is preferably arranged between the point at which the sensor is arranged and the point at which the rubber band is sewn onto the fabric.
  • This knife can be raised above the stitch plate of the sewing machine and trims the edge of the fabric before sewing on the rubber band, so that there is a clean fabric edge of the garment on the inside of the rubber band. If the beginning of the elastic band that has already been sewn on is determined by the scanning, the knife is lowered under the throat plate after a predetermined transport distance of the fabric, so that the beginning of the elastic band that has already been sewn on is not cut by this knife.
  • the sewing machine has a sewing machine table with an inserted stitch plate 10.
  • a feed dog 12 extends through the needle plate 10 from below.
  • a presser foot 14 is located above the needle plate 10 and can be raised and lowered by means of a presser foot rod 16. The needle 18 of the sewing machine pierces through the presser foot 14.
  • a pair of feed rollers 20 are provided on the sewing machine, which are driven by an electric stepping motor, not shown.
  • the rubber band 22, which forms the rubber band to be sewn, is fed between the transport rollers 20.
  • the rubber band 22 is drawn off from a supply roll by the transport rollers 20 and advanced to the sewing tools.
  • a controlled driven scissors 24 is arranged for severing the rubber band 22 passing through. Following the scissors 24, the rubber band 22 runs under an upwardly bent beak 26 of the presser foot 14.
  • a pressure plate 28 is attached to the beak 26 so as to be pivotable about an axis arranged transversely to the direction of advance of the rubber band 22.
  • the piston rod of a pneumatic cylinder unit 30 acts on a swivel lever connected to the pressure plate 28.
  • the rubber band 22 runs between the bent beak 26 of the presser foot 14 and the pressure plate 28.
  • the pressure plate 28 can be pivoted against the beak 26 by means of the pneumatic unit 30, whereby it presses the continuous rubber band 22 against the beak 26, so that the rubber band 22 runs through and is braked only by friction between the beak 26 and the pressure plate 28 and is not shown lateral guide elements, for example raised side edges, are guided in parallel.
  • An additional foot 32 is arranged in the sewing direction in front of the presser foot 14.
  • the additional foot 32 is attached to an arm of a two-armed lever 34 which is pivotally mounted on a block 36 of the presser foot 14.
  • a tension spring 38 acts on the other arm of the two-armed lever 34, so that the additional foot 32 is pressed against the needle plate 10.
  • the transporter 12 is extended at least with one of its toothed strips beyond the pressure foot 10 to the additional foot 32.
  • a guide 40 which can be screwed onto the throat plate 10 serves to reliably guide the incoming fabric 42 of the garment under the additional foot 32.
  • the transmitter and / or receiver of a light barrier 44 is arranged in the throat plate 10, which, as shown in FIG. 2, is aligned with the path of the rubber band 22 already sewn onto the fabric 42.
  • a knife (not shown) is provided in the needle plate 10 in the sewing direction between the light barrier 44 and the needle 18. The knife runs in the sewing direction and can be lowered under the needle plate 10 in a controlled manner.
  • the stepper motor driving the transport rollers 20 is synchronized with the drive of the sewing tools. Both the drive of the sewing machine and the stepper motor driving the transport rollers 20 as well as the pneumatic actuations of the scissors 24, the pneumatic unit 30 and the lowering of the knife can be controlled by the signal of the light barrier 44.
  • the sewing machine works in the following way:
  • the edge of the tubular garment, to which the elastic band is to be sewn, is placed in the sewing machine under the presser foot 14. Then the work cycle is started. The knife is raised above the needle plate 10, the feed dog 12 is started, the feed rollers 20 for feeding the rubber band 22 are driven and the pressure plate 28 is pivoted away from the beak 26 of the presser foot.
  • the fabric 42 of the garment is now advanced in the direction of the arrow by the transporter 12, its edge being cut straight in the sewing direction by the raised knife.
  • the sewing process is started.
  • the elastic band 22 is sewn onto the edge of the fabric 24.
  • the drive of the transport rollers 20 by the stepper motor is synchronized with the feed movement of the feed dog 12 and the stepper motor is controlled in such a way that the rubber band 22 also at a slightly lower speed than the fabric 42 is advanced.
  • the transport rollers 20 therefore hold the rubber band under a certain tension when it enters the presser foot 14.
  • the sewing process is continued until the elastic band 22 is sewn on almost the entire circumference of the garment.
  • the light barrier 44 which is located outside the edge of the fabric 42 and was previously free, is now interrupted by the start of the sewn-on rubber band 22 and gives a signal to the control of the sewing machine.
  • the knife (not shown) is lowered under the throat plate 10 so that it does not cut through the rubber band 22 that has already been sewn on.
  • This preselectable period of time corresponds to a preselected feed path of the rubber band 22, so that the length of the end of the rubber band 22 can be preselected, which is still sewn on after the start edge of the sewn rubber band has reached the light barrier 44. It can thus be selected whether the beginning and the end of the rubber band are butted together or with a preselectable overlap length.
  • the sewing process is ended. This number of stitches is selected so that the elastic is completely sewn over.
  • a thread cutter is actuated in a conventional manner and the presser foot is raised so that the garment with the fully sewn-on elastic band can be removed from the sewing machine.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

A sewing machine for sewing a rubber strip to a tubular end section of an item of clothing made from an elastic, textile fabric to form an endless, elastic gather, has a feed mechanism for feeding the rubber strip, and a presser foot and transportor for feeding the item of clothing. A brake and shear are positioned in the path of the rubber strip. When actuated, the brake holds the end section of rubber strip under a desired tension so that the end of the strip is precisely sewn to the item of clothing with respect to the front edge of the strip. Additionally, a light barrier is positioned in the path of the strip which has been sewn to the item of clothing to control the feed mechanism for feeding the rubber strip, the shear, and the brake.

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft eine Nähmaschine zum Annähen eines Gummibandes an einen schlauchförmigen Endabschnitt eines Kleidungsstückes aus elastischem, textilem Stoff unter Bildung eines endlosen, elastischen Bundes, mit einem das Nähgut gegen eine Unterlage drückenden Drückerfuss und einem Transporteur zum Transportieren des Nähgutes, einer das Gummiband vom Drückerfuss zuführenden Vorschubeinrichtung sowie einer Trennvorrichtung für das Gummiband.The invention relates to a sewing machine for sewing a rubber band to a tubular end portion of a garment made of elastic, textile material to form an endless, elastic waistband, with a presser foot pressing the material against a base and a feed dog for transporting the sewing material, one of the rubber band from the presser foot feeding feed device and a separator for the rubber band.

Beim Annähen eines Gummibandes an einen schlauchförmigen Endabschnitt eines Kleidungsstückes aus elastischem, textilem Stoff unter Bildung eines endlosen, elastischen Bundes muss das zugeführte Gummiband bis zum Annähen an den Stoff unter einer gewissen Zugspannung gehalten werden. Bei einer bekannten Nähmaschine der eingangs genannten Art (US-A-4 024 824) wird deshalb das Gummiband durch eine Vorschubeinrichtung hindurchgeführt, ehe es den Drückerfuss erreicht. Da die Trennvorrichtung an der Transportbahn des Gummibandes zwischen der Vorschubeinrichtung und dem Drückerfuss angeordnet ist, vermag die Vorschubeinrichtung nach dem Durchtrennen des Gummibandes dieses nicht mehr unter Spannung zu halten. Die notwendige Spannung, die auchfür ein kantengleiches Übernähen des Endes des Gummibandes mit dessen Anfang erforderlich ist, kann auch nicht mittels einer Zuführvorrichtung aufrechterhalten werden, die bei der bekannten Nähmaschine zwischen der Trennvorrichtung und der Vorschubeinrichtung angeordnet ist und einen mittels eines Arbeitszylinders längs der Transportbahn für das Gummiband verschiebbaren Zuführfinger hat. Dieser Zuführfinger, der die Aufgabe hat, den Anfang des Gummibandes dem Drückerfuss zuzuführen, wird nämlich beim Rückhub vom Gummiband abgehoben. Ausserdem liegt die Trennstelle zwischen dem Wirkungsbereich des Zuführfingers und dem Drückerfuss, so dass dieser selbst dann die Spannung des abgetrennten Endabschnittes des Gummibandes nicht aufrechterhalten könnte, wenn er ständig in Anlage am Gummiband wäre. Die Aufrechterhaltung der Spannung des Endabschnittes des Gummibandes ist auch nicht mittels eine bei der bekannten Nähmaschine am Drückerfuss vorgesehene Führungseinrichtung möglich, welche die Aufgabe hat, eine Faltenbildung oder ein Zurückrollen des Gummibandes während des Einführens zu verhindern, und zu diesem Zwecke zwei im Abstand voneinander angeordnete Wände aufweist, von denen die eine durch eine Haarnadelfeder gebildet ist. Die beiden Wände dürfen nämlich keine Klemmwirkung auf das Gummiband ausüben, da sonst der Bandanfang wegen der fehlenden Steifigkeit des Bandes nicht zwischen die beiden Wände eingeführt werden könnte.When sewing a rubber band on a tubular end section of a garment made of elastic, textile material to form an endless, elastic band, the supplied rubber band must be held under a certain tension until it is sewn onto the material. In a known sewing machine of the type mentioned at the beginning (US-A-4 024 824), the rubber band is therefore passed through a feed device before it reaches the presser foot. Since the separating device is arranged on the transport path of the rubber band between the feed device and the presser foot, the feed device is no longer able to keep it under tension after severing the rubber band. The necessary tension, which is also required for sewing the end of the rubber band at the same edge, cannot be maintained either by means of a feed device which is arranged in the known sewing machine between the separating device and the feed device and by means of a working cylinder along the transport path for the rubber band has sliding feed fingers. This feed finger, which has the task of feeding the beginning of the rubber band to the presser foot, is lifted off the rubber band during the return stroke. In addition, the separation point lies between the effective area of the feed finger and the presser foot, so that the presser foot could not maintain the tension of the separated end section of the rubber band even if it were constantly in contact with the rubber band. The maintenance of the tension of the end section of the rubber band is also not possible by means of a guide device provided on the presser foot in the known sewing machine, which has the task of preventing wrinkling or rolling back of the rubber band during insertion, and for this purpose two spaced apart Has walls, one of which is formed by a hairpin feather. The two walls must not have a clamping effect on the rubber band, since otherwise the beginning of the band could not be inserted between the two walls due to the lack of rigidity of the band.

Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, eine Nähmaschine zum automatischen Annähen eines Gummibandes an einen schlauchförmigen Endabschnitt eines Kleidungsstückes aus elastischem, textilem Stoff unter Bildung eines endlosen, elastischen Bundes zu schaffen, mittels deren nicht nur ein exaktes, kantengleiches Übernähen des Gummibandes möglich ist, sondern auch das Annähen des Endabschnittes unter den gleichen Bedingungen wie der übrigen Abschnitte und das Verbinden von Anfang und Ende des Gummibandes unter Bildung einer Überlappung oder eines Stosses. Diese Aufgabe löst eine Nähmaschine mit den Merkmalen des Anspruches 1.The invention has for its object to provide a sewing machine for automatically sewing a rubber band to a tubular end portion of a garment made of elastic, textile material with the formation of an endless, elastic waistband, by means of which not only an exact, edging sewing of the rubber band is possible, but also sewing the end section under the same conditions as the other sections and joining the beginning and end of the rubber band to form an overlap or a joint. This object is achieved by a sewing machine with the features of claim 1.

Mittels einer derartigen Bremse ist eine kontrollierte Zuführung des Gummibandes auch nach dem Abtrennen und der Freigabe von der Vorschubeinrichtung möglich, d.h., auch der Endabschnitt des Gummibandes kann bis zum Abschluss des Nähvorgangs unter der gewünschten Zugspannung gehalten und exakt dem Drückerfuss zugeführt werden. Damit ist ein kantengleiches Übernähen gewährleistet. Ausserdem bereitet es keine Schwierigkeiten, Anfang und Ende des Gummibandes mit einer wählbaren Überlappung zusammenzunähen oder aber auch unter Bildung eines stumpfen Stosses.Such a brake enables controlled feeding of the rubber band even after it has been cut off and released from the feed device, i.e. the end section of the rubber band can also be held under the desired tension until the sewing process is complete and can be fed exactly to the presser foot. This ensures sewing with the same edge. In addition, it is not difficult to sew the beginning and end of the rubber band together with a selectable overlap or to form a butt joint.

Bildet man, wie dies vorteilhafterweise der Fall ist, die Bremse als Reibungsbremse gemäss Anspruch 2 aus, dann kann die erforderliche Bremswirkung mit Hilfe der Klemmkraft variiert werden, welche die Klemmkörper auf das Gummiband ausüben. Zur seitlichen Führung des Bandes können die vorzugsweise als Platten ausgebildeten Klemmkörper der Reibungsbremse mit entsprechenden Führungselementen versehen sein.If, as is advantageously the case, the brake is designed as a friction brake according to claim 2, the required braking effect can be varied with the aid of the clamping force which the clamping bodies exert on the rubber band. For lateral guidance of the band, the clamping bodies of the friction brake, which are preferably designed as plates, can be provided with corresponding guide elements.

Damit die Kontrolle des Bandendes mittels der Bremse aufrechterhalten werden kann, bis das Bandende den Drückerfuss erreicht hat, wird vorteilhafterweise die Bremse möglichst nahe am Drückerfuss angeordnet. Bei einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform ist deshalb die den einen Klemmkörper der Bremse bildende Gegenplatte, gegen welche eine den anderen Klemmkörper bildende Druckplatte bewegbar ist, durch eine Verlängerung des Drückerfusses auf der Stoffeinlaufseite gebildet.In order that the control of the strap end by means of the brake can be maintained until the strap end has reached the presser foot, the brake is advantageously arranged as close as possible to the presser foot. In a preferred embodiment, the counter plate forming the clamping body of the brake, against which a pressure plate forming the other clamping body can be moved, is formed by an extension of the presser foot on the fabric inlet side.

Sowohl im Hinblick auf eine einfache Betätigung der vorzugsweise schwenkbar gelagerten Druckplatte als auch im Hinblick auf eine Variationsmöglichkeit der Kraft, mit der die Druckplatte auf das Gummiband einwirkt, ist als Antrieb für die Druckplatte bei einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform ein pneumatischer Zylinder vorgesehen.In a preferred embodiment, a pneumatic cylinder is provided as a drive for the pressure plate, both with a view to simple actuation of the preferably pivotally mounted pressure plate and with regard to a possibility of varying the force with which the pressure plate acts on the rubber band.

Die Vorschubeinrichtung ist vorteilhafterweise durch mittels eines Schrittmotors gesteuert antreibbare Transportrollen gebildet. Durch eine Synchronisation der Antriebsbewegung des Schrittmotors mit dem Antrieb des Transporteurs lässt sich hier eine sehr genaue Einstellung der Spannung des Gummibandes und auch eine Aufrechterhaltung dieser Spannung während des gesamten Nähvorgangs erreichen.The feed device is advantageously formed by transport rollers which can be driven by means of a stepping motor. By synchronizing the drive movement of the stepper motor with the drive of the feed dog, a very precise adjustment of the tension of the rubber band and also a maintenance of this tension can be achieved during the entire sewing process.

Eine Schere zum Abtrennen des Gummibandes ist vorteilhafterweise unmittelbar hinter den Transportrollen angeordnet. Kurz bevor das Gummiband an seinem Ende abgeschnitten wird, wird es durch die Bremse erfasst. Zur Steuerung der Schere und der Bremse ist vorzugsweise ein Sensor gemäss Anspruch 11 vorgesehen. Durch das Signal des Sensors, bei dem es sich vorzugsweise um eine Lichtschranke handelt, kann auch der Nähvorgang selbst gesteuert werden, d.h., der Nähvorgang wird auf das Signal des Sensors hin noch für eine vorwählbare Stichzahl fortgesetzt, nach der das Gummiband vollständig in der gewünschten Position angenäht und mit seinem Anfang vernäht ist. Danach wird der Nähvorgang automatisch beendet.A pair of scissors for severing the rubber band is advantageously arranged directly behind the transport rollers. Shortly before the rubber band is cut off at its end, it is caught by the brake. A sensor according to claim 11 is preferably provided to control the scissors and the brake. The sewing process itself can also be controlled by the signal from the sensor, which is preferably a light barrier, ie the sewing process is opened the signal from the sensor continues for a preselectable number of stitches, after which the rubber band is sewn on completely in the desired position and sewn with its beginning. The sewing process is then ended automatically.

Vorzugsweise ist nicht nur der Drückerfuss, sondern auch der Transporteur, gegen die Einlaufrichtung des Stoffes hin verlängert, um ein zuverlässiges Ergreifen des einlaufendenAnfangs des bereits angenähten Gummibandes sicherzustellen.Preferably, not only the presser foot, but also the feed dog, is extended towards the infeed direction of the fabric in order to ensure reliable gripping of the infeed beginning of the elastic band that has already been sewn on.

Zwischen der Stelle, an welcher der Sensor angeordnet ist, und der Stelle, an welcher das Gummiband an den Stoff angenäht wird, ist vorzugsweise ein in Nährichtung verlaufendes Messer angeordnet. Dieses Messer ist über die Stichplatte der Nähmaschine anhebbar und beschneidet den Rand des Stoffes vor dem Annähen des Gummibandes, so dass sich auf der Innenseite des Gummibandes eine saubere Stoffkante des Kleidungsstückes ergibt. Wird durch die Abtastung der Anfang des bereits angenähten Gummibandes festgestellt, so wird nach einer vorgegebenen Transportstrecke des Stoffes das Messer unter die Stichplatte abgesenkt, so dass der Anfang des bereits angenähten Gummibandes durch dieses Messer nicht zerschnitten wird.A knife running in the sewing direction is preferably arranged between the point at which the sensor is arranged and the point at which the rubber band is sewn onto the fabric. This knife can be raised above the stitch plate of the sewing machine and trims the edge of the fabric before sewing on the rubber band, so that there is a clean fabric edge of the garment on the inside of the rubber band. If the beginning of the elastic band that has already been sewn on is determined by the scanning, the knife is lowered under the throat plate after a predetermined transport distance of the fabric, so that the beginning of the elastic band that has already been sewn on is not cut by this knife.

Im folgenden wird die Erfindung anhand eines in der Zeichnung dargestellten Ausführungsbeispiels näher erläutert. Es zeigen:

  • Fig. 1 schematisch eine Seitenansicht des Teils einer Nähmaschine, der das Annähen des Gummibandes betrifft und
  • Fig. 2 eine Draufsicht auf den Drückerfuss dieser Nähmaschine.
The invention is explained in more detail below with reference to an embodiment shown in the drawing. Show it:
  • Fig. 1 shows schematically a side view of the part of a sewing machine that relates to the sewing of the rubber band and
  • Fig. 2 is a plan view of the presser foot of this sewing machine.

In der Zeichnung sind nur die für die Erfindung wesentlichen Teile der Nähmaschine dargestellt. Die in der Zeichnung nicht gezeigten Teile der Nähmaschine sind herkömmlich ausgebildet, so dass eine Beschreibung dieser Teile nicht erforderlich ist.In the drawing, only the parts of the sewing machine essential for the invention are shown. The parts of the sewing machine not shown in the drawing are of conventional design, so that a description of these parts is not necessary.

Die Nähmaschine weist einen Nähmaschinentisch mit einer eingesetzten Stichplatte 10 auf. Durch die Stichplatte 10 greift von unten ein Transporteur 12. Über der Stichplatte 10 befindet sich ein Drückerfuss 14, der mittels einer Drückerfussstange 16 heb- und senkbar ist. Durch den Drückerfuss 14 sticht die Nadel 18 der Nähmaschine.The sewing machine has a sewing machine table with an inserted stitch plate 10. A feed dog 12 extends through the needle plate 10 from below. A presser foot 14 is located above the needle plate 10 and can be raised and lowered by means of a presser foot rod 16. The needle 18 of the sewing machine pierces through the presser foot 14.

Oberhalb der Nähwerkzeuge (Stichplatte, Transporteur, Drückerfuss, Nadel) und vor diesen ist an der Nähmaschine ein Paar Transportrollen 20 vorgesehen, die durch einen nicht dargestellten elektrischen Schrittmotor angetrieben werden. Zwischen den Transportrollen 20 wird das Gummiband 22, das den anzunähenden Gummibund bildet, zugeführt. Das Gummiband 22 wird durch die Transportrollen 20 von einem Vorratswickel abgezogen und zu den Nähwerkzeugen vorgeschoben. In Vorschubrichtung des Gummibandes 22 unmittelbar hinter den Transportrollen 20 ist eine gesteuert antriebbare Schere 24 zum Abtrennen des durchlaufenden Gummibandes 22 angeordnet. Anschliessend an die Schere 24 läuft das Gummiband 22 unter einen nach oben gebogenen Schnabel 26 des Drückfusses 14. An dem Schnabel 26 ist um eine quer zur Vorschubrichtung des Gummibandes 22 angeordnete Achse schwenkbar eine Druckplatte 28 angebracht. An einem mit der Druckplatte 28 verbundenen Schwenkhebel greift die Kolbenstange eines pneumatischen Zylinder-Aggregats 30 an. Das Gummiband 22 läuft zwischen dem hochgebogenen Schnabel 26 des Drükkerfusses 14 und der Druckplatte 28 hindurch. Die Druckplatte 28 ist mittels des pneumatischen Aggregats 30 gegen den Schnabel 26 schwenkbar, wobei sie das durchlaufende Gummiband 22 gegen den Schnabel 26 presst, so dass das Gummiband 22 nur unter Reibung zwischen dem Schnabel 26 und der Druckplatte 28 hindurchläuft und gebremst und durch nicht dargestellte seitliche Führungselemente, beispielsweise hochgestellte Seitenränder, parallel geführt wird.Above the sewing tools (needle plate, feed dog, presser foot, needle) and in front of these, a pair of feed rollers 20 are provided on the sewing machine, which are driven by an electric stepping motor, not shown. The rubber band 22, which forms the rubber band to be sewn, is fed between the transport rollers 20. The rubber band 22 is drawn off from a supply roll by the transport rollers 20 and advanced to the sewing tools. In the feed direction of the rubber band 22 immediately behind the transport rollers 20, a controlled driven scissors 24 is arranged for severing the rubber band 22 passing through. Following the scissors 24, the rubber band 22 runs under an upwardly bent beak 26 of the presser foot 14. A pressure plate 28 is attached to the beak 26 so as to be pivotable about an axis arranged transversely to the direction of advance of the rubber band 22. The piston rod of a pneumatic cylinder unit 30 acts on a swivel lever connected to the pressure plate 28. The rubber band 22 runs between the bent beak 26 of the presser foot 14 and the pressure plate 28. The pressure plate 28 can be pivoted against the beak 26 by means of the pneumatic unit 30, whereby it presses the continuous rubber band 22 against the beak 26, so that the rubber band 22 runs through and is braked only by friction between the beak 26 and the pressure plate 28 and is not shown lateral guide elements, for example raised side edges, are guided in parallel.

In Nährichtung vor dem Drückerfuss 14 ist ein Zusatzfuss 32 angeordnet. Der Zusatzfuss 32 ist an einem Arm eines zweiarmigen Hebels 34 angebracht, der schwenkbar an einem Block 36 des Drückerfusses 14 gelagert ist. Am anderen Arm des zweiarmigen Hebels 34 greift eine Zugfeder 38 an, so dass der Zusatzfuss 32 gegen die Stichplatte 10 gepresstwird. Der Transporteur 12 ist zumindest mit einer seiner Zahnleisten über den Drückfuss 10 hinaus bis zu dem Zusatzfuss 32 verlängert. Eine auf die Stichplatte 10 aufschraubbare Führung 40 dient dazu den einlaufenden Stoff 42 des Kleidungsstückes zuverlässig unter den Zusatzfuss 32 zu lenken.An additional foot 32 is arranged in the sewing direction in front of the presser foot 14. The additional foot 32 is attached to an arm of a two-armed lever 34 which is pivotally mounted on a block 36 of the presser foot 14. A tension spring 38 acts on the other arm of the two-armed lever 34, so that the additional foot 32 is pressed against the needle plate 10. The transporter 12 is extended at least with one of its toothed strips beyond the pressure foot 10 to the additional foot 32. A guide 40 which can be screwed onto the throat plate 10 serves to reliably guide the incoming fabric 42 of the garment under the additional foot 32.

Unterhalb des Zusatzfusses 32 ist in der Stichplatte 10 der Sender und/oder Empfänger einer Lichtschranke 44 angeordnet, die, wie Fig. 2 zeigt, auf die Bahn des bereits an den Stoff 42 angenähten Gummibandes 22 ausgerichtet ist.Below the additional foot 32, the transmitter and / or receiver of a light barrier 44 is arranged in the throat plate 10, which, as shown in FIG. 2, is aligned with the path of the rubber band 22 already sewn onto the fabric 42.

In Nährichtung zwischen Lichtschranke 44 und der Nadel 18 ist ein nicht dargestelltes Messer in der Stichplatte 10 vorgesehen. Das Messer verläuft in Nährichtung und ist gesteuert unter die Stichplatte 10 absenkbar.A knife (not shown) is provided in the needle plate 10 in the sewing direction between the light barrier 44 and the needle 18. The knife runs in the sewing direction and can be lowered under the needle plate 10 in a controlled manner.

Der die Transportrollen 20 antreibende Schrittmotor ist mit dem Antrieb der Nähwerkzeuge synchronisiert. Sowohl der Antrieb der Nähmaschine als auch der die Transportrollen 20 antreibende Schrittmotor sowie die pneumatischen Betätigungen der Schere 24, des pneumatischen Aggregats 30 und der Absenkung des Messers sind durch das Signal der Lichtschranke 44 steuerbar.The stepper motor driving the transport rollers 20 is synchronized with the drive of the sewing tools. Both the drive of the sewing machine and the stepper motor driving the transport rollers 20 as well as the pneumatic actuations of the scissors 24, the pneumatic unit 30 and the lowering of the knife can be controlled by the signal of the light barrier 44.

Die Nähmaschine arbeitet in folgender Weise:The sewing machine works in the following way:

Das schlauchförmige Kleidungsstück wird mit seiner Kante, an die der Gummibund angenäht werden soll, in die Nähmaschine unter den Drückerfuss 14 eingelegt. Dann wird der Arbeitszyklus gestartet. Das Messer wird über die Stichplatte 10 angehoben, der Transporteur 12 wird in Gang gesetzt, die Transportrollen 20 für den Vorschub des Gummibandes 22 werden angetrieben und die Druckplatte 28 von dem Schnabel 26 des Drückerfusses abgeschwenkt.The edge of the tubular garment, to which the elastic band is to be sewn, is placed in the sewing machine under the presser foot 14. Then the work cycle is started. The knife is raised above the needle plate 10, the feed dog 12 is started, the feed rollers 20 for feeding the rubber band 22 are driven and the pressure plate 28 is pivoted away from the beak 26 of the presser foot.

Der Stoff 42 des Kleidungsstückes wird nun in Pfeilrichtung durch den Transporteur 12 vorgeschoben, wobei seine Kante durch das angehobene Messer in Nährichtung gerade geschnitten wird. Sobald der Anfang des Gummibandes 22 unter die Nadel 18 gelangt ist, wird der Nähvorgang gestartet. Das Gummiband 22 wird an den Rand des Stoffes 24 angenäht. Der Antrieb der Transportrollen 20 durch den Schrittmotor ist mit der Vorschubbewegung des Transporteurs 12 synchronisiert und der Schrittmotor ist so gesteuert, dass das Gummiband 22 mit einer etwas geringeren Geschwindigkeit als der Stoff 42 vorgeschoben wird. Die Transportrollen 20 halten daher das Gummiband beim Einlauf unter den Drückerfuss 14 unter einer gewissen Zugspannung. Der Nähvorgang wird so lange fortgesetzt, bis das Gummiband 22 nahezu über den gesamten Umfang des Kleidungsstückes angenäht ist. Dann nähert sich der Anfang des an den Stoff 42 angenähten Gummibandes 22 wieder den Nähwerkzeugen, wie dies in Fig. 2 angedeutet ist. Die Lichtschranke 44, die sich ausserhalb des Randes des Stoffes 42 befindet und bisher frei war, wird nun durch den Anfang des angenähten Gummibandes 22 unterbrochen und gibt ein Signal an die Steuerung der Nähmaschine. Auf dieses Steuersignal der Lichtschranke 44 hin wird das nicht dargestellte Messer unter die Stichplatte 10 abgesenkt, damit es nicht das bereits angenähte Gummiband 22 durchtrennt. Eine vorwählbare Zeitspanne nach dem Steuersignal der Lichtschranke 44 werden die Transportrollen 20 stillgesetzt, die Schere 24 betätigt und die Druckplatte 28 gegen den Schnabel 26 geschwenkt. Dieser vorwählbaren Zeitspanne entspricht ein vorgewählter Vorschubweg des Gummibandes 22, so dass die Länge des Endes des Gummibandes 22 genau vorgewählt werden kann, die noch angenäht wird, nachdem die Anfangskante des angenähten Gummibandes die Lichtschranke 44 erreicht hat. Es kann somit wählbar festgelegt werden, ob der Anfang und das Ende des Gummibandes stumpf aneinanderstossend oder mit einer vorwählbaren Überlappungslänge angenäht werden.The fabric 42 of the garment is now advanced in the direction of the arrow by the transporter 12, its edge being cut straight in the sewing direction by the raised knife. As soon as the beginning of the rubber band 22 has come under the needle 18, the sewing process is started. The elastic band 22 is sewn onto the edge of the fabric 24. The drive of the transport rollers 20 by the stepper motor is synchronized with the feed movement of the feed dog 12 and the stepper motor is controlled in such a way that the rubber band 22 also at a slightly lower speed than the fabric 42 is advanced. The transport rollers 20 therefore hold the rubber band under a certain tension when it enters the presser foot 14. The sewing process is continued until the elastic band 22 is sewn on almost the entire circumference of the garment. Then the beginning of the rubber band 22 sewn onto the fabric 42 again approaches the sewing tools, as indicated in FIG. 2. The light barrier 44, which is located outside the edge of the fabric 42 and was previously free, is now interrupted by the start of the sewn-on rubber band 22 and gives a signal to the control of the sewing machine. In response to this control signal from the light barrier 44, the knife (not shown) is lowered under the throat plate 10 so that it does not cut through the rubber band 22 that has already been sewn on. A preselectable period of time after the control signal of the light barrier 44, the transport rollers 20 are stopped, the scissors 24 are actuated and the pressure plate 28 is pivoted against the beak 26. This preselectable period of time corresponds to a preselected feed path of the rubber band 22, so that the length of the end of the rubber band 22 can be preselected, which is still sewn on after the start edge of the sewn rubber band has reached the light barrier 44. It can thus be selected whether the beginning and the end of the rubber band are butted together or with a preselectable overlap length.

Durch das Anschwenken der Druckplatte 28 gegen den Schnabel 26 des Drückerfusses 14, wird das Gummiband 22 unter Reibung festgeklemmt. Der Transporteur 12 zieht das Gummiband 22 beim weiteren Nähen gegen die Bremswirkung der Druckplatte 28, so dass das Gummiband beim weiteren Annähen unter Zugspannung gehalten wird, obwohl es durch die Schere 24 abgetrennt und nicht mehr von den Transportrollen 20 gehalten ist.By pivoting the pressure plate 28 against the beak 26 of the presser foot 14, the rubber band 22 is clamped under friction. The feed dog 12 pulls the rubber band 22 during the further sewing against the braking action of the pressure plate 28, so that the rubber band is held under tension under further sewing, although it is separated by the scissors 24 and is no longer held by the transport rollers 20.

Nach einer vorgegebenen Anzahl von Stichen nach dem Steuersignal der Lichtschranke 44 wird der Nähvorgang beendet. Diese Stichzahl ist so gewählt, dass sich ein vollständiges Übernähen des Gummibandes ergibt. Nach Beendigung des Nähvorgangs wird in herkömmlicher Weise ein Fadenabschneider betätigt und der Drückerfuss angehoben, so dass das Kleidungsstück mit dem vollständig angenähten Gummibund aus der Nähmaschine entnommen werden kann.After a predetermined number of stitches after the control signal of the light barrier 44, the sewing process is ended. This number of stitches is selected so that the elastic is completely sewn over. After completion of the sewing process, a thread cutter is actuated in a conventional manner and the presser foot is raised so that the garment with the fully sewn-on elastic band can be removed from the sewing machine.

Claims (13)

1. Sewing machine for sewing a rubber strip on a tube-like end portion of a garment of elastic textile material to form an endless elastic band, the sewing machine comprising a presser foot for pressing the item being sewn against a backing surface and with a transporter for transporting the item being sewn, a feed means for feeding the rubber band to the presser foot and with a separating device for the rubber band, characterised in that on the conveyor web for the rubber band (22) from the feed means (20) to the presser foot (14) there is between the separating device (24) and the presser foot (14) and immediately in front of the place at which the presser foot (14) starts to press the supplied rubber band (22) against the backing surface (10), a brake (26, 28, 30) which is capable of acting on the rubber band (22) and which is constructed as a friction brake with an adjustable braking action.
2. Sewing machine according to Claim 1, characterised in that the friction brake (26, 28, 30) comprises clamping members (26, 28) which are adapted to be pressed against each other and which grip the rubber band (22) between them.
3. Sewing machine according to Claim 2, characterised in that one clamping member is constructed as a pressure plate (28) adapted for movement towards a counter-plate (26) which forms the other clamping member.
4. Sewing machine according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the brake (26, 28, 30) comprises guide elements which laterally guide the rubber band (22).
5. Sewing machine according to Claim 3 and 4, characterised in that the guide elements are provided on at least one of the two plates (26, 28).
6. Sewing machine according to one of Claims 3 to 5, characterised in that the counter-plate (26) is formed by an extension of the presser foot (14) on the material intake side, the pressure plate (28) being disposed opposite the underside of the counter-plate.
7. Sewing machine according to Claim 6, characterised in that the transporter (12) is extended towards the material intake side.
8. Sewing machine according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterised by a pneumatic cylinder (30) which serves as a drive for the pivotally mounted pressure plate (28).
9. Sewing machine according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the feed means constitute feed rollers (20) adapted to be driven under control by a stepping motor.
10. Sewing machine according to Claim 9, characterised in that the drive motion of the stepping motor is synchronised with the feed motion of the transporter (12).
11. Sewing machine according to one of Claims 1 to 10, characterised by a sensor (44) for detecting the commencement of the rubber band sewn onto the material (42) and approaching the presser foot (14) together with the material, in order to control the brake (26, 28, 30) and the separating device constructed as a guillotine (24) and disposed between the feed means (20) and the brake (26, 28, 30).
12. Sewing machine according to Claim 11, characterised in that the sensor comprises at least one light barrier (44).
13. Sewing machine according to one of Claims 1 to 12, characterised in that the cutter which in per se known manner is disposed under the presser foot (14) and upstream of the intake point of the rubber band (22) and which can be lowered below the stich- ing plate (10) in order to cut off the selvedge of the infed material (42), comprises a lowering device adapted to be controlled by means of the sensor.
EP85102773A 1984-03-20 1985-03-12 Sewing machine Expired EP0165380B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT85102773T ATE39504T1 (en) 1984-03-20 1985-03-12 SEWING MACHINE.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3410181 1984-03-20
DE3410181A DE3410181C2 (en) 1984-03-20 1984-03-20 sewing machine

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0165380A1 EP0165380A1 (en) 1985-12-27
EP0165380B1 true EP0165380B1 (en) 1988-12-28

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP85102773A Expired EP0165380B1 (en) 1984-03-20 1985-03-12 Sewing machine

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US (1) US4635575A (en)
EP (1) EP0165380B1 (en)
JP (1) JPS60222084A (en)
AT (1) ATE39504T1 (en)
DE (1) DE3410181C2 (en)

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US4635575A (en) 1987-01-13
DE3410181A1 (en) 1985-10-03
EP0165380A1 (en) 1985-12-27
JPS6360679B2 (en) 1988-11-25
JPS60222084A (en) 1985-11-06
ATE39504T1 (en) 1989-01-15
DE3410181C2 (en) 1986-07-17

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