EP0120709B1 - High contrast patterning process and product - Google Patents

High contrast patterning process and product Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0120709B1
EP0120709B1 EP84302105A EP84302105A EP0120709B1 EP 0120709 B1 EP0120709 B1 EP 0120709B1 EP 84302105 A EP84302105 A EP 84302105A EP 84302105 A EP84302105 A EP 84302105A EP 0120709 B1 EP0120709 B1 EP 0120709B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
dye
pattern
areas
solvent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP84302105A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0120709A3 (en
EP0120709A2 (en
Inventor
Robert Charles Arnott
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Milliken Research Corp
Original Assignee
Milliken Research Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Milliken Research Corp filed Critical Milliken Research Corp
Publication of EP0120709A2 publication Critical patent/EP0120709A2/en
Publication of EP0120709A3 publication Critical patent/EP0120709A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0120709B1 publication Critical patent/EP0120709B1/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0079—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability)
    • D06B11/0089—Local modifications of the ability of the textile material to receive the treating materials, (e.g. its dyeability) the textile material being a surface

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a process for generating patterns exhibiting high visual contrast on textile substrates, and novel products which may be produced thereby. More specifically, one aspect of this invention relates to a method for patterning the surface of a textile substrate comprising thermoplastic yarns, which includes heat treating selected regions of the substrate and causing the selected regions to retain less dye than untreated regions of the substrate.
  • FR-A-2 254 667 describes a process in which materials padded with solutions or dispersions of dye are locally modified by physical means during or after fixation of the dye.
  • the means may include crimping or abrading, which may be applied to mixed fabrics of polyester and cotton, or thermal treatment to give half-dyeing effects or changes of shade.
  • a process disclosed in our GB-A-2 065 035 relies upon streams of heated fluid, which are made to impinge upon the substrate surface in a pattern configuration, to selectively shrink, melt, or otherwise thermally deform or distort individual yarns or portions of individual yarns comprising the substrate surface, thereby producing visually distinct areas on the substrate surface in those areas containing yarns exposed to the heated fluid streams.
  • This technique can produce patterns which are quite detailed and which, under some circumstances, can achieve rather high levels of visual contrast between pattern and pattern-complementary (i.e. background) areas, even though not requiring the pattern-wise application of dye.
  • the substrate is, for example, a pile fabric and the pile yarns have been heated sufficiently to induce substantial thermally-induced longitudinal shrinkage among the individual pile yarns.
  • the resulting sculptured or surface contoured effect can result in dramatic contrast levels between pattern and pattern-complementary areas, provided the surface is appropriately illuminated.
  • the degree of contrast is often heavily dependent upon the type and direction of the incident illumination.
  • patterning may be achieved using the pattern-wise application of heat or other conditioning agent, rather than the pattern-wise application of dye, to individual yarns on the substrate surface, and wherein the degree of visual contrast between pattern and pattern-complementary areas on the substrate surface may be controllably varied from relatively low to relatively high values, and wherein the perceived contrast is not significantly dependent upon the nature of the illumination.
  • the process of this invention is characterised by:
  • the dye may be applied to the yarns either prior to or following the treating or conditioning step.
  • the role played by the treating or conditioning agent in this invention may be thought of as being somewhat similar to that of a catalyst, in the sense that the chosen solvent extracts dye with much greater speed from the treated yarns than from the untreated yarns.
  • the chosen solvents useful in the practice of this invention will, given sufficient exposure, extract dye from untreated areas as well as treated areas, and perhaps to the same extent, but will not do so at the same rate.
  • a second aspect of this invention provides a patterned textile substrate, in which selected regions are deformed with the help of heat and contain less dye than undeformed regions of the substrate, characterised in that the pattern areas are comprised of polyester yarns which are thermally deformed and whereof at least a segment is longitudinally shrunken and pattern-complementary areas are comprised of polyester yarns which are substantially non-deformed and contain substantially more disperse dye per unit yarn length than said deformed yarns.
  • a textile fabric comprised of polyester (e.g., polyethylene terephthalate) yarns which have been conventionally dyed with a disperse dye is impinged with heated streams of fluid, for example, air in a pattern-wise configuration by an apparatus similarto that disclosed in GB-A-2 065 035, referenced above.
  • This apparatus is discussed herein as merely one example of an apparatus which may be used to practice this invention; our US-A-4 364 156, further defines a manifold which may prove advantageous when used in conjunction with the apparatus of GB-A-2 065 035.
  • any means by which appropriate amounts of heat may be suitably applied in a pattern-wise configuration to the yarns comprising the surface of the textile substrate to be patterned may be employed.
  • a laser beam of suitable power and intensity, directed onto or over the substrate surface in a pattern configuration, may be used instead of heated air streams.
  • thermal energy tends to induce a decrease in the internal orientation of at least portions of individual, untensioned yarns in those pattern areas where the maximum rate of solvent extraction of dye is desired.
  • the decrease in orientation is thought to promote the entry of the solvent into the yarn interior, perhaps by generating voids between adjacent constituent molecules, and thereby accelerate the dye extraction process.
  • thermal conditioning may tend to cause radial migration of dye molecules from the yarn interior toward the yarn surface which, contributes to the observed accelerated rate of dye extraction by the solvent in thermally treated yarns.
  • thermoplastic yarns are accompanied by thermal deformation or distortion of the yarns, e.g., softening, longitudinal shrinking, melting, or fusing of individual yarns.
  • thermal deformation or distortion of the yarns e.g., softening, longitudinal shrinking, melting, or fusing of individual yarns.
  • conditioned polymeric yarns have increased voids between adjacent polymer molecules within the fibers comprising the yarns, as compared to unconditioned yarns of the same type, thereby enhancing the migration rate of solvent molecules into and out of the yarns.
  • the following table was prepared to quantify the effects of thermal conditioning on one example of a polyester yarn, using a preferred suitable solvent.
  • the rate of dye extraction generally increases after brief thermal conditioning at temperatures above about 300°F, and increases dramatically after brief thermal conditioning at temperatures extending from about 425°F to somewhere between about 475°F and 500°F, i.e., a temperature just below the melting point of the unconstrained yarn.
  • somewhat higher temperatures i.e., 500°F or above, may be employed to generate increased shrinkage and increased dye extraction rates.
  • the fabric is then exposed for a controlled period of time to a solvent which, during that time period, selectively extracts dye from the heat treated areas only, and which has relatively little or substantially no effect upon those portions of the fabric surface which have not been heat treated in accordance with the teachings of this invention.
  • a solvent which, during that time period, selectively extracts dye from the heat treated areas only, and which has relatively little or substantially no effect upon those portions of the fabric surface which have not been heat treated in accordance with the teachings of this invention.
  • the heat treated fabric be immediately exposed to the solvent, or be stored under any particular set of conditions following the pattern-wise heat treatment of the fabric.
  • Solvents which have been used with fabrics containing polyester yarns which were dyed using disperse dyes include hot perchloroethylene and 1,1,1-trichloroethane.
  • Other solvents which may be found to be satisfactory may be found in Table II of the technical article "Interactions of Nonaqueous Solvents with Textile Fibers-Part 1: Effects of Solvents on the Mechanical Properties of a Polyester Yarn" by A. S. Ribnick, H.-D. Weigmann, and L.
  • a preferred solvent for polyester yarn/disperse dye combinations is methylene chloride, which may be used at room temperature and which is capable of extracting substantial quantities of disperse dye from pattern-wise heat treated polyester relatively quickly.
  • polyester-containing fabric which has been heat treated in a pattern-wise configuration may be immersed in a bath of methylene chloride at room temperature and agitated for a short period of time to assure proper circulation of the solvent in the vicinity of the yarns comprising the patterned areas of the fabric.
  • the methylene chloride solvent can, in a matter of 30 to 60 seconds or less, extract substantially all of the visible dye from those pattern areas of the fabric which have been heavily heat treated.
  • the solvent will extract visably less dye from pattern areas, or portions of individual yarns, which have been less heavily treated, i.e., exposed to lower temperatures, and will extract substantially no dye from those areas or yarns, or portions of yarns, which have not been heat treated.
  • Using warm or hot methylene chloride solvent produces the same selective extraction effects, but within a substantially shortened time period-virtually complete dye extraction may be achieved in heavily patterned areas in a matter of a few seconds. It must be remembered that if solvent exposure time is not monitored carefully, complete dye extraction will occur in lightly treated or non-treated areas as well.
  • Means other than immersion may be used to bring the fabric into contact with the solvent if desired, e.g., the solvent may be sprayed on the fabric. It is also contemplated that, following application of the solvent, physical agitation of the yarns, to wash dye saturated solvent from the surface may be used to facilitate the extraction process. Means for halting solvent action may vary. Most simply, of course, the solvent may be washed or otherwise removed from the substrate surface after the desired "residence time" or exposure time has passed.
  • the chosen solvent be one which is not readily flammable, and of course should be one which is neither grossly toxic to humans nor destructive to the yarns used. It is believed that suitable solvents should be selected from those solvents having a hildebrand solubility parameter ( ) which is appropriate to the yarn of interest. It has been found, for example, that for yarns consisting essentially of polyethylene terephthalate (10.7), workable solvents should have hildebrand solubility parameter values within the range of about 8 to about 14. Solvents having values closest to 10.7 do not necessarily result in maximum dye extraction rates and are not necessarily preferred over other solvents having more extreme values.
  • Solvents having values substantially higher or lower than 10.7 may interact quite well with different portions of the polyethylene terephthalate molecule and produce high dye extraction rates. It has been found that suitable solvents having solubility parameter values between about 9 and 10, and also between about 11.5 to about 13, often work quite well; suitable solvents from the former group tend to interact well with the aromatic portion of the polyethylene terephthalate molecule, while solvents from the latter group tend to interact well with the aliphatic portion of that molecule.
  • the fabric was then treated with streams of hot air from the heated air device described hereinabove to generate a sculptured pile fabric having a pin dot array of depressed, thermally shrunken yarns.
  • the fabric speed in the device was 6.5 ypm (98.8 mms- 1 ); the manifold air temperature was about 670°F (354°C).
  • the coloration in the sculptured prior to exposure to the solvent areas was slightly darker than in the background area, where the pile remained substantially erect.
  • the patterned fabric was immersed in a bath of methylene chloride at 23°C for one minute, removed, and dried in a stream of room temperature air. When completely dry the fabric exhibited a pattern of very light brown sculptured dots on a background substantially unchanged in color. The contrast exhibited by the pattern areas on the treated sample was excellent, and the pattern was very easy to see from any angle.
  • This fabric was treated with streams of hot air using the device disclosed above to yield a dot array of thermally shrunken pile.
  • the fabric speed in the device was 25 ypm (380 mms-1); the manifold air temperature was about 820°F (438°C).
  • the final product When treated with methylene chloride as described above for 1 minute, removed and air dried, the final product exhibited a uniformly deep blue field with a substantially white pin dot array, corresponding exactly to the shrunken pile areas, superimposed thereon.
  • the fabric was treated with streams of hot air in pattern configuration using the above-referenced device.
  • the fabric speed in the device was 7 ypm (106 mms-'); the manifold air temperature was about 700°F (371°C).
  • a sculptured image was obtained which was difficult to read at all angles of light.
  • the fabric was then dipped in methylene chloride at 23°C for 30 seconds, removed and dried with a stream of cool air to yield a highly contrasting design of white against a green background that was much more readable than the untreated patterned fabric.
  • a 100% polyester knit fabric (interlock) manufactured by Milliken & Company and identified as Style 2651 having a weight of 3.0 oz yd 2 (102 gm- 2 ) was dyed to a deep blue shade using disperse dye and imaged by computer controlled streams of heated air using the above-referenced device.
  • the fabric speed in the device was 3.75 ypm (57 mms- 1 ); the manifold air temperature was about 820°F (438°C).
  • the image Prior to exposure to the solvent, the image was darker in the heated area.
  • When dipped in methylene chloride at 23°C for 30 seconds and air dried the imaged area became lighter.
  • a woven fabric containing an intimate blend of polyester and cotton in the ratio 65/35 manufactured by Milliken & Company and identified as Style 2602, weighing approximately 4.75 oz/yd (147 gm- 1 ) was union dyed to a navy blue shade.
  • the fabric was imaged with hot air streams to yield a diamond pattern with flowers in the center, using the above-referenced device.
  • the fabric speed in the device was 6 ypm (91 mms- 1 ); the manifold air temperature was about 700°F (371°C). On the dark navy fabric, there was only slight contrast between the imaged and the unimaged areas.
  • the dye was extracted from the polyester yarns that had been thermally transformed by the hot air while the dye in the cotton fibers remained unaffected.
  • the result was a light blue pattern on a darker navy background due to extraction of the dye within the polyester fibers.
  • a napped woven fabric containing a disperse-dyeable polyester yarn in the filling direction and a cationic-dyeable polyester yarn in the warp direction was woven in such a way that, after cross-dyeing, napping created a sculptured effect consisting of square-shaped non-pile areas, approximately 0.1 inches (2.54 mm) per side, which appeared black (cationic dye) in a field of grey (dispersed dyed nap).
  • the fabric was manufactured by Milliken & Company and identified as Style 8317 having a weight of approximately 10 oz/yd 2 (340 gm- 2 ). The fabric was imaged with a stream of hot air using the above-referenced device.
  • the fabric speed in the device was 6.75 ypm (103 mms -1 '); the manifold air temperature was about 670°F (354°C).
  • the fabric was immersed in methylene chloride at 23°C for 1 minute, then dried.
  • the resulting pattern showed a highly contrasting white pattern area, and a black pin dot on a grey background.
  • the resulting effect was multicolor and showed good contrast with the cationic dye removed to a much lesser extent, if at all, by the solvent extraction process.
  • a woven polyester fabric having both cationic-dyeable polyester yarn and disperse-dyeable polyester yarn, identified as Style 8327 having a weight of 9.5 oz/yd 2 (323 gm- 2 ) was cross-dyed and then patterned with a stream of heated air at 760°F (404°C) in the above-referenced device. Fabric speed was 6.75 ypm (103 mms- 1 . The patterned fabric was then dipped in methylene chloride for 1 minute at 23°C. After 1 minute the sample was removed and dried. It showed strong contrast where the hot air had impinged, giving very light diagonal blue line pattern against a field of medium-to-dark blue yarns.
  • Example 1 The fabric of Example 1 was similarly treated with hot air. The treated fabric was then immersed for 5 seconds in a bath of methylene chloride heated to 35°C. The results after removal from the solvent and drying were substantially identical to those achieved in Example 1.
  • Example 1 The procedures of Example 1 were followed, except that acetone heated to 53°C was substituted for methylene chloride. The results were similar to those achieved in Example 1.
  • Example 1 The procedures of Example 1 were followed, except that 1,1,1-trichloroethane at 70°C was substituted for the methylene chloride. The results were similar to those achieved in Example 1.
  • Example 1 The procedures of Example 1 were followed, except that perchloroethylene at 95°C was substituted for the methylene chloride, and the exposure time was extended to 5 minutes. The results were similar to those achieved in Example 1.
  • Example 1 The procedures of Example 1 were followed, except that ethanol at 73°C was substituted for the methylene chloride, and the exposure time was extended to 5 minutes. A very slight change in the visual dye concentration was observed in the treated areas.
  • Example 1 The procedures of Example 1 were followed, except that the heat treatment with hot air streams was done prior to conventional dyeing.
  • the resulting fabric contained dark brown dots on a medium brown field. Exposure of the patterned fabric to methylene chloride for one minute at 23°C results in a noticeable visual lightening of the dot areas. Further exposure, for a total exposure time of 5 minutes, resulted in a fabric exhibiting light beige dots on a medium brown field.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP84302105A 1983-03-28 1984-03-28 High contrast patterning process and product Expired EP0120709B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US47941083A 1983-03-28 1983-03-28
US479410 1983-03-28

Publications (3)

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EP0120709A2 EP0120709A2 (en) 1984-10-03
EP0120709A3 EP0120709A3 (en) 1985-05-29
EP0120709B1 true EP0120709B1 (en) 1988-09-07

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Family Applications (1)

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EP84302105A Expired EP0120709B1 (en) 1983-03-28 1984-03-28 High contrast patterning process and product

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EP (1) EP0120709B1 (el)
JP (1) JPH0823114B2 (el)
AU (1) AU578604B2 (el)
BE (1) BE899263A (el)
CA (1) CA1225840A (el)
CH (1) CH669493GA3 (el)
DE (1) DE3411486C2 (el)
DK (1) DK166885B1 (el)
FR (1) FR2543588B1 (el)
GB (1) GB2138031B (el)
IE (1) IE55089B1 (el)
LU (1) LU85274A1 (el)
MX (1) MX158723A (el)
NL (1) NL190420C (el)
NZ (1) NZ207630A (el)
SE (1) SE466502B (el)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6685749B1 (en) * 2000-07-20 2004-02-03 Malden Mills Industries, Inc. Fabrics with surfaces of contrasting colors and/or different contour
TW200300185A (en) 2001-11-07 2003-05-16 Procter & Gamble Textured materials and method of manufacturing textured materials
CN112626668A (zh) * 2021-01-04 2021-04-09 方连明 一种富硒布料及其制备方法和应用

Family Cites Families (16)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1343752A (fr) * 1962-10-12 1963-11-22 Traitements Chimiques Des Text Procédé de teinture de matières textiles
US3648488A (en) * 1970-10-08 1972-03-14 Gaf Corp Apparatus for producing heat induced effects on flexible substrates
US3751284A (en) * 1971-07-02 1973-08-07 United Merchants & Mfg Tone-on-tone resin bonded pigmenting of flock printed fabric with low temperature air drying
DE2337522A1 (de) * 1973-07-24 1975-02-13 Bayer Ag Fliessdruckverfahren
IT1027695B (it) * 1973-12-17 1978-12-20 Hoechst Ag Processo per l ottenimento di effetti cromatici differenziati effetti di scorrimento o tinture ombreggiate su oggetti piani tessili
DE7440224U (de) * 1973-12-21 1978-01-19 Stotz & Co Ag, Zuerich (Schweiz) Versteifungseinlage fuer kragen
AU498410B2 (en) * 1974-04-26 1979-03-15 Wira Fabrics
DE2442515B2 (de) * 1974-09-05 1976-11-11 Hoechst Ag, 6000 Frankfurt Verfahren zur herstellung von unregelmaessigen, rapportlosen aetzeffekten
US4147507A (en) * 1974-10-31 1979-04-03 Girmes-Werke Ag Production of colored patterns on nap fabrics
DE2451806B2 (de) * 1974-10-31 1976-10-28 Girmes-Werke Ag, 4155 Grefrath Verfahren zum erzeugen von farblichen musterungseffekten auf florstoffen
ES480522A1 (es) * 1979-05-14 1980-01-16 Estampados Estil S A Procedimiento de estampacion por corrosion sobre material - textil tintado con azul indigo.
US4499637A (en) * 1979-12-14 1985-02-19 Milliken Research Corporation Method for the production of materials having visual surface effects
MX156073A (es) * 1981-01-23 1988-06-29 Milliken Res Corp Mejoras en aparato aplicador de aire caliente para el cambio de dibujo de telas en movimiento
FR2507218A1 (fr) * 1981-06-05 1982-12-10 Temauri Masson Rosine Procede d'impression de tissu par irradiation localisee de colorants d'impression
JPS5925907U (ja) * 1982-08-06 1984-02-17 積水樹脂株式会社 電線防護カバ−
AU572311B2 (en) * 1984-07-03 1988-05-05 Taylor, D.P. Patterning fabrics

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
SE466502B (sv) 1992-02-24
JPS602741A (ja) 1985-01-09
IE55089B1 (en) 1990-05-23
NZ207630A (en) 1988-02-29
CA1225840A (en) 1987-08-25
CH669493GA3 (el) 1989-03-31
EP0120709A3 (en) 1985-05-29
NL190420B (nl) 1993-09-16
NL8400934A (nl) 1984-10-16
DE3411486C2 (de) 1996-04-18
LU85274A1 (fr) 1984-11-14
FR2543588A1 (fr) 1984-10-05
BE899263A (fr) 1984-07-16
DK169184D0 (da) 1984-03-27
IE840768L (en) 1984-09-28
GB8407920D0 (en) 1984-05-02
AU2608584A (en) 1984-10-04
NL190420C (nl) 1994-02-16
DK166885B1 (da) 1993-07-26
EP0120709A2 (en) 1984-10-03
DK169184A (da) 1984-09-29
FR2543588B1 (fr) 1986-07-25
JPH0823114B2 (ja) 1996-03-06
AU578604B2 (en) 1988-11-03
SE8401658L (sv) 1984-09-29
GB2138031A (en) 1984-10-17
GB2138031B (en) 1986-04-09
SE8401658D0 (sv) 1984-03-26
MX158723A (es) 1989-03-03
DE3411486A1 (de) 1984-10-04

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