EP0023932B1 - Procédé de fabrication à partir de fibres naturelles d'une étoffe textile à allongement élastique important dans au moins une direction - Google Patents
Procédé de fabrication à partir de fibres naturelles d'une étoffe textile à allongement élastique important dans au moins une direction Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0023932B1 EP0023932B1 EP79102907A EP79102907A EP0023932B1 EP 0023932 B1 EP0023932 B1 EP 0023932B1 EP 79102907 A EP79102907 A EP 79102907A EP 79102907 A EP79102907 A EP 79102907A EP 0023932 B1 EP0023932 B1 EP 0023932B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- yarns
- yarn
- untwisting
- twist
- force
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/326—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic the elastic properties due to the construction rather than to the use of elastic material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
- D04B1/20—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads
Definitions
- the invention relates to a method according to the preamble of claim 1.
- the goods are either made from an elastomeric material and / or from highly textured yarns, in particular polyamide yarns, which have a corresponding additional elasticity due to the texturing.
- textile goods made from synthetic yarns cannot be worn by a large group of people and they have disadvantageous properties, in particular a relatively low level of thermal insulation and absorbency. It is therefore known to produce textile goods from blended yarns which e.g. Textured polyamide yarn with wool or cotton included. The goods themselves can also be made from synthetic threads and natural fiber threads.
- synthetic fibers have the poor wearing properties described above. Wearing tights or other items of laundry made of such synthetic fibers therefore results in low absorbency in the summer, causing them to stick to the skin, while in winter only a low level of thermal protection is achieved. In addition, as stated above, many people are allergic to the wearing of synthetic fibers.
- the synthetic fiber materials are all thermoplastic and therefore a very simple and effective fixation of the texturing and thus the elasticity caused thereby is possible, so that the back-turning force is low.
- a correspondingly high extensibility is only possible through a very high twist and fixation during the texturing, so that these yarns made from natural fibers must inevitably have an extraordinarily high reverse twisting force if a correspondingly high elasticity is achieved should.
- a completely smooth appearance or a clear stitch pattern is achieved.
- the inventive arrangement of yarns with opposing strong resilience in the longitudinal direction achieves a completely clear stitch structure or a completely smooth fabric, i.e. the goods have a smooth appearance, in which the properties of the yarn have a clear effect on the surface.
- known yarns processed in the same way have a crepe-like fabric by crimping individual exposed yarn sections in the goods.
- a method for producing an elastic fabric is also known (FR-PS 14 01 466), in which the yarns are composed of two or more threads of natural, artificial or synthetic fibers or mixtures thereof, then the yarn is twisted in the direction of rotation of the individual threads , only thermally fixed, then in the opposite direction until it is turned hard to the critical pivot point, again only thermally fixed and then turned back.
- This provides the individual fibers of the yarn with a crimp, so that a very voluminous and plush-like yarn is created.
- This yarn is then woven with the same direction of rotation or with the opposite direction of rotation in side-by-side weft or warp threads in order to avoid warping of the fabric.
- the return force in the axial direction achieved in this known production of voluminous, plush-like yarns, as well as the return force, is only slight, since when using pure natural fibers, only a slight fixation is achieved by simple exposure to heat.
- This fixation is improved by adding thermoplastic, synthetic fibers.
- the fixation essentially only serves to fix the twist in the individual fibers, but is not sufficient to ensure permanent longitudinal elasticity of up to 500%, as in the invention.
- a method for producing elastic bandages for medical purposes in which all warp threads made of natural fibers are woven with a strong twist in one direction with weft threads made of soft, resilient, non-woven natural fiber material. As a result, the warp threads partially turn back in the finished fabric and take a zigzag or. corrugated position so that the bandage is elastic in the warp direction.
- the effect used here is opposite to the effect according to the invention, in which the twisting of the yarns is to be prevented.
- the through straight twist fixation of the twist-up position and twist-back of the yarn to near the starting twist position or yarns formed in addition with strong reverse twisting force can either be incorporated adjacent in the textile goods, e.g. with opposite reverse twisting force as adjacent warp and / or weft threads in a fabric or in successive courses of a knitted fabric , or it is possible to produce combined threads in which two yarns are twisted with one another in such a way that the strong reversing forces which result from the fixing of the high-twist position and the subsequent turning back or the resultant return forces in the longitudinal direction of the yarns act against one another, or also through Such a yarn is supported on correspondingly strong support threads, for example made of appropriate elastomers.
- the textile goods produced according to the invention can be damped after production in a manner known per se for relaxing the yarn, as a result of which the yarns shrink and the resilience is increased after elastic stretching.
- the yarn or the thread is turned up to the critical pivot point.
- the critical point of rotation is the degree of twisting at which the increase in the strength of the yarn twist due to the increase in the frictional pressure has a certain saturation limit depending on the spinning structure (adherence and pliability) and deformability of the fibers. If the critical pivot point is exceeded, the thread is twisted off.
- the yarn can be turned back to the zero point or beyond to achieve the required return twist force and thus the required return force in the longitudinal direction beyond the initial twist state.
- the initial twist state denotes the twist of the yarn in which the fibers are in the same relative position to one another as in the case of the starting yarn before twisting.
- the zero point denotes the rotational position of the yarn at which the fibers are approximately parallel to one another, i.e. where the yarn has no twist at all.
- the turning up and / or turning back can take place on ring twisting machines, with the yarn generally being wound up or wound up after each operation, or the turning up and turning back can be done on a false twisted wire machine, friction texturing machine or the like. respectively.
- the yarn is turned up in one direction in one pass and, after being fixed, turned back in the opposite direction.
- the yarn or twine can be impregnated with a fixing agent before or during the twisting or in the twisted state, and the latent fixing effect of this impregnating agent can be triggered in the twisted state.
- This impregnation of the thread can take place during the run while winding up in the machine by means of an impregnation trough, or it can take place before the winding up or after the winding up if the yarn is in strands or on bobbins.
- All known agents can be used as an impregnating agent for the corresponding fibers, which are used in such natural fibers for a corresponding fixation of a specific layer.
- the impregnating agent for fixing the yarn can contain a means for splitting the bifunctional and / or polyfunctional bodies of the fibers and for permanently fixing them in the new position.
- a reactant resin dimethyl-diethylene urea or a mixture of these can be used to impregnate yarns or twists and cellulose fibers.
- Chemical products of the type known for the iron-free finishing of cotton fabrics can also be used for the fixation of cotton yarns according to the invention.
- agents can be used which are known for the crease-free finishing and stabilization of wool fabrics, while chemical products can also be used for protein-containing fibers, such as wool and silk, as are known for the permanent shaping of human hair during the perm.
- a higher temperature for triggering the latent fixing effect than is known is used briefly to trigger the fixing action.
- silk or wool yarns can be fixed by heat treatment at a temperature of over 220 ° C.
- a preparation that prevents static charging and / or improves the sliding properties can be applied to the thread after fixation.
- An aqueous emulsion of polysiloxanes and additives to reduce the static charge on the thread can be used as a preparation.
- textile goods used here includes all fabrics, knitted fabrics, knitted or other webs, ribbons, garments or the like produced by connecting threads. a.
- essentially inextensible warp threads e.g. made of silk, woven using weft threads 2a and 2b.
- the weft threads 2a have a turning force in the direction of the arrows A and the warp threads 2b have an opposite reverse twisting force in the direction of the arrows B.
- the restoring force is transmitted through the contact of the weft threads in the tissue with one another and through their connection through the essentially inextensible warp threads to the neighboring weft threads with opposite reversing force, so that the reversing forces cannot cause the threads to twist, but rather from opposite directions Reverse forces of the adjacent weft threads are absorbed.
- a weft thread 2a and a weft thread 2b can also be inserted together into a compartment, in which case the reaction effect of the reverse twisting forces against one another is brought about only by the direct contact of the threads with one another.
- the extensibility of the threads in the longitudinal direction, i.e. in the transverse direction of the fabric in Fig. 1, is not affected.
- the weaving can be carried out on known looms on which known elastic fabrics based on synthetic fibers are woven.
- Fig. 2 shows a modification of the invention, in which the reaction forces are absorbed in a thread itself.
- 2 consists of a core thread 5, for example made of silk or wool, which, as described above, is fixed and turned back and thus has a considerable reversing force in the direction of arrow C.
- a core thread for example made of silk or wool, which, as described above, is fixed and turned back and thus has a considerable reversing force in the direction of arrow C.
- a highly elastic cover thread 6 made in the same way from the same or a different natural fiber material as the core thread against the direction of the return force of the core yarn 5, ie twisted in the direction of arrow C 1 , so that the elastic acting in the longitudinal direction of the cover thread 6 Return force counteracts the return force of the core thread 5.
- the reverse twisting or resetting forces caused by the upward rotation, fixation and strong reverse twisting cancel each other out, so that the twisted thread itself has no reversing force but only a return force in its longitudinal direction.
- 2 can be woven as warp and / or weft thread, for example in looms used for weaving elastic synthetic threads or knitted in conventional knitting machines.
- a smooth synthetic thread can be used, the torsional resistance of which is so great that it absorbs the longitudinal force of the cover thread without significant deformation.
- a thread can be produced, the resilience of which is extremely strong in the longitudinal direction, and which in particular e.g. is suitable for heavy corsetry or orthopedic support stockings without the disadvantages of the synthetic elastomer core thread being effective, since this synthetic elastomer core thread is completely covered over its entire length by the cover thread consisting of natural fibers.
- the longitudinal elasticity of the elastomeric thread is not impaired, since the extensibility of the cover thread is so great that it also undergoes a very strong stretching of the elastomeric core thread.
- the cover thread If known, or only very weakly elastic threads made of natural fibers are used as the cover thread, the elasticity of the elastomer core thread would be greatly restricted or the cover thread would be overstretched, so that after the elastic longitudinal twist of the core thread was reset, it would not lie against this core thread in smooth spirals but would form defects in the tissue.
- a section of a knitted fabric for example for a pair of tights, is shown schematically in simple stitch formation, in which in successive stitches rows a, b, c, d yarns made of natural fibers are knitted, which are alternately strongly turned up in opposite directions, fixed in the high turning position and turned back to near the starting turning position or beyond.
- the yarns are fed to a knitting machine during knitting with successive systems rotating in opposite directions.
- the yarn in the courses a and c has a direction of rotation in the direction of the arrow D, while the yarns in the courses b and d have an opposite direction of rotation, in the direction of the arrows E.
- the opposite direction of rotation of the yarns causes the stitches in the individual rows to be tilted in the opposite direction, which results in an additional elasticity of the knitted fabric.
- this inclination of the stitches serves to achieve an increased stretch effect by counter-rotating the yarns. According to the invention, this inclination would not be necessary per se, since the yarns made from natural fibers with a very strong reversing force themselves have an extraordinarily high elastic extensibility of up to 500%, so that even with very tightly knitted goods in which the inclination is not or only very slightly effective a very large elasticity is ensured in all directions.
- the titer After degassing, the titer is 50 den.
- Silk weft is 1: 1.
- the result is an apparel fabric with a smooth surface that has a satin sheen on its smooth surface and has a permanent elasticity of 15-20% in the weft direction.
- a thread made of Lycra (Dupont) or Dorlastan (Bayer) based on polyurethane is twisted with this highly elastic silk thread in such a way that the thread wraps around the polyurethane thread in various turns, so that a material ratio of 3: 1 silk / polyurethane is achieved.
- threads are woven on a protected closed weaving machine manufactured by Sulzer (Switzerland) in taffeta weave.
- a twist is used as the core thread, in which 2 natural silk threads, 50 den, treated as example 1, twisted, fixed and turned back, are twisted on a ring twisting machine with a protective twist of 70 T / m in the S direction.
- This core thread (twisted) is twisted with a cover thread, as in Example 2, in a Z-twist.
- the cover thread / core thread material ratio is 2: 1.
- the tights produced in this way have a clear mesh structure and a silky appearance of the smooth surface with high elasticity in all directions, good resilience and the resulting perfect fit across all sizes common for fine tights. They are fully washable, i.e. the elasticity is permanent even after repeated washing.
- the starting material is Brasil-Grege in titer 78 den.
- the titer is 50 den.
- Impregnation, coils, texturing as example 1 with corresponding titer conversion Impregnation, coils, texturing as example 1 with corresponding titer conversion.
- the result is a highly elastic knitted tube with high elasticity and elasticity in all directions.
- This knitted tube is made into women's briefs that have a completely smooth, silk-like surface with high elasticity and therefore a good fit.
- This thread strives to return to the fixed, high-revved state and contracts like a spiral spring. This results in permanent elasticity that is at least 200% in the thread.
- Nm 40/2 is set in S-rotation.
- Nm 40/2 is set in Z-rotation.
- Rib 2 3 in right and left stitches.
- these socks are washable at 30-35 ° C.
- the elasticity is permanent even after frequent washing.
- the method according to the invention can also be used with the addition of synthetic fibers or yarns if this addition e.g. to achieve an increased wear resistance of the goods compared to the pure natural fiber or is desired for other reasons.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Claims (6)
Priority Applications (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AT79102907T ATE7312T1 (de) | 1979-08-10 | 1979-08-10 | Verfahren zum herstellen einer wenigstens in einer richtung stark elastisch dehnbaren textilware aus naturfasern. |
EP79102907A EP0023932B1 (fr) | 1979-08-10 | 1979-08-10 | Procédé de fabrication à partir de fibres naturelles d'une étoffe textile à allongement élastique important dans au moins une direction |
HK395/85A HK39585A (en) | 1979-08-10 | 1985-05-23 | Process for making a natural-fibre textile fabric elastically extensible into at least one direction |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP79102907A EP0023932B1 (fr) | 1979-08-10 | 1979-08-10 | Procédé de fabrication à partir de fibres naturelles d'une étoffe textile à allongement élastique important dans au moins une direction |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0023932A1 EP0023932A1 (fr) | 1981-02-18 |
EP0023932B1 true EP0023932B1 (fr) | 1984-05-02 |
Family
ID=8186172
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP79102907A Expired EP0023932B1 (fr) | 1979-08-10 | 1979-08-10 | Procédé de fabrication à partir de fibres naturelles d'une étoffe textile à allongement élastique important dans au moins une direction |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0023932B1 (fr) |
AT (1) | ATE7312T1 (fr) |
HK (1) | HK39585A (fr) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
KR20000023944A (ko) * | 1999-12-02 | 2000-05-06 | 이영임 | 목욕용 타월지 및 그 제조방법 |
US6140261A (en) * | 1997-03-10 | 2000-10-31 | Uhlmann; Klaus | Procedure for the manufacture of elastic textile fabrics |
Families Citing this family (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE4113378C1 (fr) * | 1991-04-24 | 1992-11-12 | Siegfried 1000 Berlin De Schwert | |
WO2000012798A1 (fr) * | 1998-09-01 | 2000-03-09 | Boehme Chem Fab Kg | Procede de production d'etoffes |
CN103485024A (zh) * | 2013-09-05 | 2014-01-01 | 吴江秦邦纺织有限公司 | 一种多功能口水巾 |
DE102016000095B4 (de) | 2015-01-08 | 2018-08-09 | BWZ Baumwollweberei Zittau GmbH | Textiles Flächengebilde sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben |
DE202016104745U1 (de) * | 2016-08-30 | 2016-09-16 | Advitex Gmbh | Textilelement |
CN106917174A (zh) * | 2017-03-31 | 2017-07-04 | 东华大学 | 一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱及其制备和应用 |
Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE2321852A1 (de) * | 1973-04-30 | 1974-11-07 | Klaus Uhlmann | Verfahren zur herstellung eines garnes aus insbesondere proteinhaltigen fasern mit permanentem stretcheffekt |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR1401466A (fr) * | 1964-04-25 | 1965-06-04 | Filatures Prouvost & Cie | Procédé d'obtention de tissus élastiques |
FR1461593A (fr) * | 1965-10-26 | 1966-02-25 | Andre Gillier Ets | Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu tricoté élastique bouclé et tissu obtenu par la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé |
FR1496401A (fr) * | 1966-10-11 | 1967-09-29 | Du Pont | Procédé pour obtenir un tissu élastique |
GB1427193A (en) * | 1973-05-11 | 1976-03-10 | Elbeo Ltd | Method of knitting garments |
CH597401A5 (en) * | 1976-04-12 | 1978-04-14 | Hepatex Ag | Stretch knitted fabric |
-
1979
- 1979-08-10 AT AT79102907T patent/ATE7312T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1979-08-10 EP EP79102907A patent/EP0023932B1/fr not_active Expired
-
1985
- 1985-05-23 HK HK395/85A patent/HK39585A/xx unknown
Patent Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE2321852A1 (de) * | 1973-04-30 | 1974-11-07 | Klaus Uhlmann | Verfahren zur herstellung eines garnes aus insbesondere proteinhaltigen fasern mit permanentem stretcheffekt |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US6140261A (en) * | 1997-03-10 | 2000-10-31 | Uhlmann; Klaus | Procedure for the manufacture of elastic textile fabrics |
KR20000023944A (ko) * | 1999-12-02 | 2000-05-06 | 이영임 | 목욕용 타월지 및 그 제조방법 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
ATE7312T1 (de) | 1984-05-15 |
HK39585A (en) | 1985-05-31 |
EP0023932A1 (fr) | 1981-02-18 |
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