CN117243884B - Composition containing fermentation active substance for improving skin barrier, preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Composition containing fermentation active substance for improving skin barrier, preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN117243884B
CN117243884B CN202311410505.0A CN202311410505A CN117243884B CN 117243884 B CN117243884 B CN 117243884B CN 202311410505 A CN202311410505 A CN 202311410505A CN 117243884 B CN117243884 B CN 117243884B
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fermentation product
skin barrier
fermentation
yeast
skin
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CN117243884A (en
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杜养标
林秀益
曾茜
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Guangzhou Ruiyu Chemical Technology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and discloses a composition containing fermentation active substances for improving skin barrier, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the composition containing fermentation active substances for improving skin barrier comprises, by weight, 0.2-3 parts of Brazil nut seed extract, 0.01-0.3 parts of inositol galactoside and 1-8 parts of a fermentation product of saccharomyces cerevisiae, wherein the fermentation product of saccharomyces cerevisiae is a fermentation product filtrate of saccharomyces cerevisiae or a combination of a fermentation product filtrate of saccharomyces cerevisiae and a lysate of the fermentation product of saccharomyces cerevisiae. The invention provides a composition containing fermentation active substances for improving skin barrier, which comprehensively improves the skin barrier function from inside to outside through the combination of Brazil nut seed extract, inositol galactoside and a fermentation product of two-way yeast, and plays the roles of synergistically moisturizing and enhancing the barrier function.

Description

Composition containing fermentation active substance for improving skin barrier, preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a composition containing a fermentation active substance for improving skin barrier and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the development of the age and the increasing importance of people on health, skin health is also a concern for the public, and the following conditions are problems that skin health is affected and skin barrier damage is more likely to occur:
(1) People can remove medical care, acid brushing, cutin removing and the like to pursue whitening and smoothing skin for improving the skin complexion and the smoothness of the skin, and often make up and make-up removal can improve the charm of the skin in a short time, but can damage the skin barrier to a certain extent;
(2) The outdoor exercises such as camping, climbing surfing, sliding boards and the like are raised, so that people who are enthusiastic for the outdoor exercises are often exposed under the sun, and the ultraviolet sunburn probability is greatly increased;
(3) The current crowds staying up at night and eating in a binge way are increased, so that the homeostasis of the skin is influenced, and the skin barrier is also influenced;
(4) In recent years, damage to the skin barrier is more likely to occur due to various causes such as global warming and an increase in air temperature year by year.
The skin barrier has the functions of protecting the internal nutrients from losing, resisting external chemical and physical stimulation, blocking harmful bacteria, fungi, viruses and other microorganisms, and the like, and the damaged barrier cannot have the skin water-retaining function, meanwhile, the internal nutrients are easy to lose, the external stimulation resistance is weak, the discomfort such as dry skin due to water shortage, desquamation, redness, itching and the like is very easy to cause, and various troubles are brought to people, so that the normal life of people is influenced.
There is therefore a need to develop skin barrier repair to improve the skin health of people, like D1: chinese patent 201911131529.6 discloses that skin barrier repair compositions include fresh milk, rice chaff extract, flaxseed extract, and hydrolyzed zein; the skin care composition disclosed by the invention is derived from natural animal and plant components, is safe and reliable for human body, has obvious effects on improving the moisture content of skin cuticle and reducing the transdermal moisture loss, has obvious synergistic effect after being compounded by all components in the composition, improves the skin barrier function after being used, and can be applied to infant skin to help improve and repair damaged skin barriers. The skin care composition starts from exogenous supplement and endogenous improvement of skin barrier function, can radically and long-term improve skin barrier problem, and achieves long-term moisture retention.
The skin barrier repairing function of the infant skin can be effectively improved by nursing the skin cuticle, and the long-acting moisturizing effect can be achieved, so that the infant skin barrier repairing device is a good research direction for improving the skin barrier.
However, there are also techniques in the prior art to improve the skin barrier from different angles, such as D2: chinese patent 202010255259.6 discloses a skin barrier repair compound, a face cream and a preparation method thereof; the skin barrier repair composite comprises: compositions for repairing skin barrier, madecassoside, deacidified carnosine, licorice root extract, scutellaria root extract and witch hazel extract; the composition for repairing a skin barrier comprises: sea fennel callus culture filtrate, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and hydrolyzed red algae extract. The skin barrier repair compound can achieve the triple effects of repairing the cutin barrier, repairing the immune barrier and enhancing the microecological barrier simultaneously; the cream prepared by the method has obvious repairing effect, can effectively improve the hydration degree of skin, increase the content of hyaluronic acid in skin, improve photoaging, help the inversion of cell saccharification and reduce the area of fine lines.
The above patent considers that the lack of protection of immune cells from one-sided repair of the stratum corneum results in failure to radically improve the symptoms of the damage, and thus the skin barrier is fully repaired by the compatibility of the components of the skin barrier repair composition.
The above D1 and D2 repair the skin barrier from different angles, and each has a long and different action mechanism, and provides a diversified technical development direction, so as to adapt to different users, but D1 is mainly aimed at moisturizing the stratum corneum and repairing the skin barrier, and D2 is mainly aimed at repairing the skin barrier, and in order to achieve the effect of quickly repairing the damaged skin barrier, it is not known to comprehensively protect the damaged skin barrier against the above-mentioned various conditions in which the damaged skin barrier is easy to occur, especially the skin microecological balance.
Accordingly, there is a need to develop a skin care composition that fully improves skin barrier function from all points of view.
Disclosure of Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermentation active to solve the problems of the prior art that the improvement of skin barrier function is not complete enough, focusing on skin barrier repair rather than complete protection of skin barrier.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a composition for improving skin barrier containing a fermentation active, which can fully improve skin barrier and fully exert skin barrier function, thereby maintaining skin microecological balance.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a composition for improving skin barrier comprising fermentation active, which comprises, by weight, 0.2-3 parts of Brazil nut seed extract, 0.01-0.33 parts of inositol galactoside, and 1-8 parts of fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
Preferably, the Brazil nut seed extract is 0.5-2 parts, the inositol galactoside is 0.04-0.2 parts, and the fermentation product of the two-split yeast is 2-5 parts.
Further, the composition for improving skin barrier containing the fermentation active further comprises 75-90 parts of water, 2.5-8 parts of humectant and 0.05-1.5 parts of cooling agent.
Preferably, the humectant is one or more of polyalcohol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, and panthenol.
More preferably, the polyol is one or more of 1,3 propylene glycol, 1,2 propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2 hexylene glycol, 1,2 pentylene glycol.
Preferably, the cooling agent comprises one or more of methyl diisopropyl acrylamide, menthol lactate and menthane carboxamide.
Preferably, the fermentation product of the two yeast is two yeast fermentation product lysate and/or two yeast fermentation product filtrate.
Further, when the yeast fermentation product is a combination of a yeast fermentation product lysate and a yeast fermentation product filtrate, the mass ratio of the yeast fermentation product lysate to the yeast fermentation product filtrate is 1:97.7.
the present invention also provides a method of preparing a composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermentation active, comprising the steps of:
step 1: heating water to 70-80deg.C, cooling to 45deg.C, sequentially adding Brazil nut seed extract, inositol galactoside and fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and mixing to obtain mixture A;
step 2: uniformly mixing a humectant and a cooling agent to obtain a mixture B;
step 3: adding mixture B to mixture A and mixing to obtain the composition containing fermentation active for improving skin barrier.
The invention also provides application of the composition containing the fermentation active substance for improving skin barrier, and the composition is applied to skin care products.
Further, the composition for improving skin barrier containing the fermentation active is applied to essence, mask, toner, cream, emulsion and the like.
Advantageous effects
Compared with the prior art, the invention has at least the following advantages:
(1) The invention provides anti-aging and maintains skin microecology balance through organic acid, amino acid, polysaccharide and polypeptide which are rich in the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae and the antioxidant active substances;
(2) The Brazil nut seed extract acts on the skin barrier function from three layers, and promotes lipid metabolism by promoting the metabolism of cholesterol and ceramide and strengthening the storage and transportation of lipid; promoting the epidermal differentiation process by promoting growth factors and stimulating proliferation and differentiation of keratin; strengthening epidermis by strengthening the cohesion between keratinocytes and the structure of cytoskeleton, thereby exerting its skin barrier function;
(3) The invention adopts inositol-galactoside to compound Brazil nut seed extract and a fermentation product of the two-way yeast to generate a synergistic effect, remarkably strengthens the skin barrier function while deeply locking water, promotes the generation of hyaluronic acid and the increase of heat shock protein HSPs, protects the skin barrier under severe environments such as high temperature, strong ultraviolet rays and the like, optimizes the protein quality and the function, and recovers the barrier function;
(4) The invention provides a composition containing fermentation active substances for improving skin barrier, which comprehensively improves the skin barrier function from inside to outside through the combination of Brazil nut seed extract, inositol galactoside and a fermentation product of two-way yeast, and plays the roles of synergistically moisturizing and enhancing the barrier function.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below in connection with the examples, which are not to be construed as limiting the invention in any way, but rather as a limited number of modifications which are within the scope of the appended claims.
In order to explain the technical content of the present invention in detail, the following description will further explain the embodiments.
In the following examples and comparative examples, brazilian seed extract was used as Ethience protection by Clariant chemical technology (Shanghai); the inositol galactose glycoside is Galactinol Advanced of the chemical technology (Shanghai) limited company of the Clariant; the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast adopts fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast of Jiangsu Rui biological technology Co., ltd; while RayFerment PostBifido from Jiangsu Rev biotechnology Co., ltd was used in combination of the lysate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae and the filtrate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae in examples 3 and 7, the ratio of the lysate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae to the filtrate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae was 1:97.7; the cooling agent is Salvona, LLC; the humectant is sodium hyaluronate of Hua Xi Biotech Co., ltd; the centella asiatica extract is HerbEx Centella Extract of chemical technology (Shanghai) limited company of Crain; the yeast fermentation lysate filtrate is adopted; yeast fermentation product extract of Jiangsu Ting Biotech Co
/YEAST FERMENT EXTRACT。
It should be noted that the core components of the invention are inositol galactoside, brazil nut extract and fermentation product of two-split yeast, and the raw materials adopted in the invention all contain corresponding solvents such as glycerin, water and the like, so that the effect of the invention is not substantially affected, and therefore, the technical scheme of the invention can be realized through other commercial products, and is not limited to the raw materials provided by the factories.
The compositions were prepared according to the following preparation methods and the formulations of table 1, the amounts of each substance being expressed in parts by weight;
the preparation method comprises the following steps:
step 1: heating water to 75deg.C, cooling to 45deg.C, sequentially adding one of Brazil nut extract, herba Centellae extract, macadamia nut oil and semen Armeniacae amarum extract, mixing with one of inositol galactoside, sucrose and trehalose, and one of fermentation product of two-split yeast and filtrate of fermentation lysate of yeast to obtain mixture A;
step 2: uniformly mixing a humectant and a cooling agent to obtain a mixture B;
step 3: the mixture B is added to the mixture A and mixed to obtain the composition containing the fermentation active for improving skin barrier.
Table 1 formulation of compositions containing fermentation actives to improve skin barrier
Performance testing
The following tests were conducted on the compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9;
1. TEWL test
Percutaneous moisture loss test
Preparation of test earlier stage: screening volunteers with damaged barriers, and standing in the space for 30min after the volunteers clean the face with clear water or facial cleanser in a constant temperature and humidity environment with the temperature of (21+/-1) ℃ and the relative humidity of (50+/-10) percent RH;
the testing method comprises the following steps: the moisture content of the facial skin of the subjects before and after the use of the product was measured by using a skin moisture loss measuring instrument, vaponter (Delfin, finland), and the moisture loss of the skin of the subjects before and after the use of the product was compared by TEWL parameters.
Wherein Δtewl= (TEWL 2-TEWL 1)/TEWL 1×100%, TEWL1 is the test value before the product is not used, TEWL2 is the test value after the product is used, and the larger the obtained result Δtewl value is, the larger the reduction of the percutaneous water loss after the product is used by the test skin is, and the better the barrier repairing and moisturizing effects of the product are.
And calculating data such as average value, standard deviation, maximum value, minimum value, difference value and the like of each group, wherein the data accords with a normal distribution rule.
The compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were tested according to the above test methods, and the results are shown in Table 2;
TABLE 2 percutaneous Water loss test results of the compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9
Test sample TEWL1 TEWL2 △TEWL(%)
Example 1 22.13 13.76 -37.82
Example 2 20.20 10.7 -47.03
Example 3 21.10 10.8 -48.82
Example 4 20.19 15.00 -25.7
Example 5 21.65 11.03 -49.05
Example 6 21.88 11.63 -46.85
Example 7 21.79 13.13 -39.74
Comparative example 1 22.15 17.48 -21.08
Comparative example 2 18.23 14.78 -18.92
Comparative example 3 18.45 15.45 -16.26
Comparative example 4 19.09 15.42 -19.22
Comparative example 5 18.56 14.53 -21.71
Comparative example 6 19.57 14.88 -23.97
Comparative example 7 20.12 14.67 -27.09
Comparative example 8 18.34 15.35 -16.30
Comparative example 9 19.07 15.96 -16.31
As can be seen from table 2:
according to the data of examples 1-7, the technical scheme of compounding Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae can effectively improve the barrier repair and moisturizing ability of skin; the comparison of the data in examples 2 and 3 shows that the technical scheme of compounding the two-split yeast fermentation product lysate and the two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate with the Brazil nut extract and the inositol-galactoside further improves the barrier repair and moisture retention capacity of the skin compared with the technical scheme of compounding the two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate with the Brazil nut extract and the inositol-galactoside; according to examples 2, 4 and 5, it can be known that the overall weight of the Brazil nut extract, the inositol galactoside and the filtrate of the fermentation product of the two-way yeast affects the barrier repair and moisture preservation effects of the skin, and the more the overall weight of the Brazil nut extract, the inositol galactoside and the filtrate of the fermentation product of the two-way yeast is in a reasonable proportion, the better the effect is, but the effect is improved in a tendency of increasing rapidly and slowly after the overall weight of the Brazil nut extract, the inositol galactoside and the filtrate of the fermentation product of the two-way yeast is improved, and when the weight of the Brazil nut extract, the inositol galactoside and the filtrate of the fermentation product of the two-way yeast are out of the range of the invention, the effect is not improved greatly, but the production cost is increased; as can be seen from the comparison of the data in examples 2 and 6, the compounding ratio of the Brazil nut extract, the inositol-galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the yeast for the two yeasts has the effect of synergistically improving the barrier repair and moisturizing effects of the skin, and simply increasing the Brazil nut extract does not significantly increase the barrier repair and moisturizing effects of the skin, and the compounding ratio of the Brazil nut extract, the inositol-galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the yeast for the two yeasts has a more important effect.
According to the data comparison of the embodiment 2 and the comparative examples 1-4, the comparative example 8 and the comparative example 9, the technical scheme of compounding Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae produces a synergistic effect, and has remarkable effects of improving skin barrier repair and skin moisture preservation; while comparative examples 1, 8 and 9 use centella asiatica extract similar to the effect of Brazil nut extract or macadamia nut oil and almond extract of nuts belonging to the same genus as Brazil nut extract to replace Brazil nut extract, which have better skin barrier repairing and moisturizing effects, compared with the compound combination of Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and yeast fermentation product filtrate, the skin barrier repairing and moisturizing effects are obviously reduced, which indicates that other components cannot produce synergistic effects with inositol galactoside and yeast fermentation product filtrate; the saccharide isomer of the inositol galactoside is adopted to replace the inositol galactoside in comparative example 2 and comparative example 3, and the skin barrier repairing and moisturizing effects of the composition are obviously reduced, which indicates that the technical scheme of adopting Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast to compound has obvious synergistic skin barrier repairing and skin moisturizing effects; comparative example 4 substitution of the yeast fermentation lysate filtrate for the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation product filtrate also resulted in a significant decrease in the skin barrier repair and moisturization efficacy of the composition.
According to the comparison of the data in the embodiment 2 and the comparative examples 5 to 7, in the technical scheme of the invention, the Brazil nut extract, the inositol-galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast are indispensable, and the lack of one of the substances can obviously reduce the skin barrier repair and moisture preservation effects of the composition, so that the technical scheme of the invention adopting the Brazil nut extract, the inositol-galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast to compound has a synergistic effect and has obvious effects of improving the skin barrier repair effects and the skin moisture preservation effects.
2. Stratum corneum moisture content test
Preparation of test earlier stage: screening suitable volunteers, and standing in the space for 30min after the volunteers clean the face with clear water or facial cleanser in a constant temperature and humidity environment with the temperature of (21+/-1) ℃ and the relative humidity of (50+/-10) percent RH;
the testing method comprises the following steps: the moisture content of the facial Skin of a subject before and after the product is used is measured, the moisture content of the facial Skin is measured by a moisture content tester (Antsci Skin-SP), and the moisture content of the Skin before and after the product is used is compared by the moisture content parameter of the horny layer. Wherein DeltaW= (W2-W1)/W1 multiplied by 100%, W1 is a test value before the product is not used, W2 is a test value after the product is used, and the larger the obtained DeltaW value is, the larger the increase of the moisture content of the horny layer of the tested skin after the product is used, and the better the moisturizing effect of the product is.
And calculating data such as average value, standard deviation, maximum value, minimum value, difference value and the like of each group, wherein the data accords with a normal distribution rule.
The compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were tested according to the above test methods, and the results are shown in Table 3;
TABLE 3 results of moisture content test of the horny layer of the compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9
Test sample W1 W2 △W(%)
Example 1 37.45 51.67 37.97
Example 2 38.11 58.17 52.64
Example 3 37.84 58.56 54.76
Example 4 34.45 40.12 16.49
Example 5 35.67 56.11 57.30
Example 6 35.23 53.38 51.52
Example 7 37.12 52.48 41.38
Comparative example 1 31.87 38.88 22.00
Comparative example 2 32.45 38.87 19.78
Comparative example 3 32.12 37.68 17.3
Comparative example 4 31.56 37.34 18.31
Comparative example 5 34.23 36.38 19.04
Comparative example 6 36.45 44.87 23.10
Comparative example 7 33 38.34 27.59
Comparative example 8 33.09 38.79 17.22
Comparative example 9 34.11 39.96 17.15
As can be seen from table 3:
also, as can be seen from the data of examples 1 to 7, the present invention can effectively improve the barrier repair and moisture retention ability of skin by adopting the technical scheme of compounding Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae; as can be seen from the comparison of the data in examples 1 and 7, the technical scheme of combining the two-way yeast fermentation product lysate and the two-way yeast fermentation product filtrate with the Brazil nut extract and the inositol-galactoside further improves the barrier repair and moisture retention ability of the skin compared with the technical scheme of combining the two-way yeast fermentation product filtrate with the Brazil nut extract and the inositol-galactoside.
According to the data comparison of the embodiment 2 and the comparative examples 1-4, the comparative example 8 and the comparative example 9, the technical scheme of compounding Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae produces a synergistic effect, and has remarkable effects of improving skin barrier repair and skin moisture preservation; while comparative examples 1, 8 and 9 use centella asiatica extract similar to the effect of Brazil nut extract or macadamia nut oil and almond extract of nuts belonging to the same genus as Brazil nut extract to replace Brazil nut extract, which have better skin barrier repairing and moisturizing effects, compared with the compound combination of Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and yeast fermentation product filtrate, the skin barrier repairing and moisturizing effects are obviously reduced, which indicates that other components cannot produce synergistic effects with inositol galactoside and yeast fermentation product filtrate; the saccharide isomer of the inositol galactoside is adopted to replace the inositol galactoside in comparative example 2 and comparative example 3, and the skin barrier repairing and moisturizing effects of the composition are obviously reduced, which indicates that the technical scheme of adopting Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast to compound has obvious synergistic skin barrier repairing and skin moisturizing effects; comparative example 4 substitution of the yeast fermentation lysate filtrate for the Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation product filtrate also resulted in a significant decrease in the skin barrier repair and moisturization efficacy of the composition.
According to the comparison of the data in the embodiment 2 and the comparative examples 5 to 7, in the technical scheme of the invention, the Brazil nut extract, the inositol-galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast are indispensable, and the lack of one of the substances can obviously reduce the skin barrier repair and moisture preservation effects of the composition, so that the technical scheme of the invention adopting the Brazil nut extract, the inositol-galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast to compound has a synergistic effect and has obvious effects of improving the skin barrier repair effects and the skin moisture preservation effects.
3. Facial red area a value test
Preparation of test earlier stage: screening suitable volunteers, and standing in the space for 30min after the volunteers clean the face with clear water or facial cleanser in a constant temperature and humidity environment with the temperature of (21+/-1) ℃ and the relative humidity of (50+/-10) percent RH;
the testing method comprises the following steps: the red area a value of the face of the subject before and after the use of the product is measured, the red area a value of the face is measured by a face imaging analysis system VISIA-7 (Canfield, USA), and the red area a value parameter of the face is compared with the red fading effect of the face before and after the use of the product. Wherein Δa= (a 2-a 1)/a1×100%, a1 is a test value before the product is not used, a2 is a test value after the product is used, and the larger the obtained result Δa value is, the larger the reduction amplitude of the red area a value of the face of the tested skin after the product is used is, and the better the barrier repairing and reddening effects of the product are.
And calculating data such as average value, standard deviation, maximum value, minimum value, difference value and the like of each group, wherein the data accords with a normal distribution rule.
The compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were tested according to the above test methods, and the results are shown in Table 4;
table 4 results of the facial red zone value test for the compositions prepared in examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-9
Test sample a1 a2 △a(%)
Example 1 22.11 13.84 -37.4039
Example 2 21.13 11.36 -46.2376
Example 3 21.52 11.04 -48.6989
Example 4 20.56 15.08 -26.6537
Example 5 21.65 11.14 -48.545
Example 6 21.36 11.29 -47.1442
Example 7 21.69 13.01 -40.0184
Comparative example 1 22.05 17.14 -22.2676
Comparative example 2 19.23 15.78 -17.9407
Comparative example 3 20.42 16.95 -16.9931
Comparative example 4 21.19 17.21 -18.7824
Comparative example 5 19.86 16.53 -16.7674
Comparative example 6 21.77 16.48 -24.2995
Comparative example 7 20.52 14.67 -28.5088
Comparative example 8 20.38 16.94 -16.8793
Comparative example 9 21.07 17.47 -17.0859
From the results in table 4, it can be seen that:
according to the data of examples 1-7, the technical scheme of compounding Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and fermentation product of the two-way yeast can effectively improve the barrier repair and the red fading effects of skin; unlike the two experimental performances described above, the effect of example 6 was higher than that of example 2 in the facial red zone test, indicating that the effect of the extract of Brazil nut on the redness of the skin was important in the composition of the invention; and according to the comparison of the data of the embodiment 3 and the embodiment 2 and the embodiment 5, the skin redness effect exerted by the combination of the two-split yeast fermentation product lysate and the two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate is more remarkable when the two-split yeast fermentation product lysate and the two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate are adopted to be compounded with Brazil nut extract and inositol galactoside, so that the skin redness effect of the composition can be synergistically improved by the combination of the two-split yeast fermentation product lysate and the two-split yeast fermentation product filtrate.
According to the data comparison of the example 2 and the comparative examples 1-4, the comparative example 8 and the comparative example 9, the technical scheme of compounding Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae produces a synergistic effect, and has remarkable effects of improving the skin barrier repairing effect and the skin fading effect; while comparative examples 1, 8 and 9 use centella asiatica extract similar to the effect of Brazil nut extract or macadamia nut oil and almond extract of nuts belonging to the same genus as Brazil nut extract to replace Brazil nut extract, which have certain skin barrier repairing and reddening effects, compared with the compound combination of Brazil nut extract, inositol galactoside and fermentation product filtrate of two-split yeasts, the skin barrier repairing and reddening effects are obviously reduced, which indicates that other components cannot produce synergistic effects with inositol galactoside and fermentation product filtrate of two-split yeasts; the saccharide isomer of the inositol galactoside is adopted to replace the inositol galactoside in comparative example 2 and comparative example 3, and the skin barrier repairing and reddening effects of the composition are obviously reduced, so that the technical scheme of adopting the Brazil nut extract, the inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae to compound has obvious synergistic skin barrier repairing and skin reddening effects; comparative example 4 substitution of the yeast fermentation lysate filtrate for the two-way yeast fermentation product filtrate also resulted in a significant decrease in the skin barrier repair and reddening efficacy of the composition.
As can be seen from the comparison of the data in examples 2 and comparative examples 5 to 7, in the absence of any one of the components of the extract of brazil nut, inositol galactoside and the filtrate of the fermentation product of saccharomyces cerevisiae, even if the weight fraction of the other components is increased, the barrier repair and the redness-removing efficacy of the skin are significantly reduced; the technical scheme that the Brazil nut extract, the inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae are compounded is adopted to generate a synergistic effect, so that the skin barrier repairing effect and the skin reddening effect are remarkably improved.
From the comparison of the data of comparative examples 5 and 6 and 7, it is understood that in the case of comparative example 5 lacking Brazil nut seed extract, the reduction of the facial red area a value is small, while in the case of comparative example 6 and comparative example 7 lacking inositol galactoside or the fermentation product filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, although the reduction of the facial red area a value is also small, the reduction is small relative to comparative example 5, indicating that the inositol galactoside and fermentation product filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae of the present invention synergistically promote skin redness efficacy of Brazil nut seed extract.
4. Anti-wrinkle test
Preparation of test earlier stage: screening suitable volunteers, and standing in the space for 30min after the volunteers clean the face with clear water or facial cleanser in a constant temperature and humidity environment with the temperature of (21+/-1) ℃ and the relative humidity of (50+/-10) percent RH;
the testing method comprises the following steps: the area, volume and area ratio of the wrinkles around the eyes and under the eyes before and after the use of the product were measured by the subject, and the area, volume and area ratio of the wrinkles around the eyes and under the eyes before and after the use of the product were measured by the facial imaging analysis system ViSIA-7 (Canfield, USA).
Wherein DeltaK= (K2-K1)/K1 multiplied by 100%, K1 is a test value before the product is not used, K2 is a test value after the product is used, and the larger the obtained DeltaK value is, the larger the reduction amplitude of the area, volume and area ratio of the canthus and the under-eye wrinkles of the tested skin after the product is used is, and the better the anti-wrinkle and wrinkle-reducing effects of the product are.
And calculating data such as average value, standard deviation, maximum value, minimum value, difference value and the like of each group, wherein the data accords with a normal distribution rule.
The compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were subjected to an anti-wrinkle test according to the above test method, and the results are shown in Table 5;
TABLE 5 anti-wrinkle Properties of the compositions prepared in examples 1-7 and comparative examples 1-9
Test sample K1 K2 △K(%)
Example 1 32.11 24.99 -22.17377764
Example 2 31.13 23.04 -25.98779313
Example 3 29.62 21.32 -28.02160702
Example 4 29.56 27.78 -6.02165088
Example 5 31.05 21.72 -30.04830918
Example 6 31.16 22.73 -27.05391528
Example 7 30.69 23.61 -23.06940371
Comparative example 1 31.05 24.51 -21.06280193
Comparative example 2 30.53 28.41 -6.943989519
Comparative example 3 30.62 28.16 -8.033964729
Comparative example 4 31.29 24.15 -22.81879195
Comparative example 5 30.86 22.83 -26.02073882
Comparative example 6 31.27 28.11 -10.10553246
Comparative example 7 30.72 22.58 -26.49739583
Comparative example 8 30.78 24.31 -21.02014295
Comparative example 9 30.07 23.75 -21.01762554
From the results in table 5, it can be seen that:
according to the data comparison of example 2 and comparative examples 1, 8 and 9, it can be seen that the effect of the macadamia nut extract is remarkably reduced compared with the technical scheme of the invention by replacing the macadamia nut extract with the centella asiatica extract with similar effect to the Brazilian nut extract or the macadamia nut oil and almond extract with the extract of the nuts belonging to the same genus as the Brazilian nut extract, which indicates that the synergistic effect of improving the effect of skin wrinkle resistance by adopting the Brazilian nut extract, inositol galactoside and the fermentation product filtrate of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae is achieved.
Also, as can be seen from comparison of the data of example 2 and comparative example 4, the substitution of the yeast fermentation lysate filtrate for the two-part yeast fermentation product filtrate also resulted in a significant decrease in the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the composition, indicating that the two-part yeast fermentation product filtrate in the compositions of the present invention also exerted an important synergistic effect.
From the comparison of the data of example 2 and comparative examples 2 and 3, it is shown that the dermatological anti-wrinkle effect of the composition is drastically reduced in the absence of inositol galactoside, indicating that inositol galactoside plays an important dermatological anti-wrinkle role in the composition of the present invention, while Brazil nut seed extract and the fermentation product filtrate of the bifidus are responsible for synergistically improving the dermatological anti-wrinkle effect of inositol galactoside.
From the above conclusion, it is clear from the comparison of the data of example 2 and comparative example 5 and comparative example 7 that, in the case of the absence of the extract of Brazil nut or the filtrate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae and the increase of the weight fraction of inositol galactoside, the anti-wrinkle effect of skin is not significantly increased, which means that the anti-wrinkle effect of skin of the present invention is not merely that of inositol galactoside, but that the synergistic effect of enhancing the anti-wrinkle effect of skin of inositol galactoside is achieved by compounding the extract of Brazil nut, the filtrate of the fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae and inositol galactoside.
5. Safety test
Patch test
The skin barrier improving composition comprising the fermented active prepared in all the above examples and the control group were subjected to the human safety patch test, and the test method was referred to the human skin patch test in 2015 cosmetic safety technical Specification. The method for the skin closed patch test comprises the following steps: 30 persons aged 18-60 years are selected, qualified plaque test equipment with the area of not more than 50mm < 2 > and the depth of about 1mm is selected, 0.020mL of the repairing tightening composition prepared in the above examples and comparative examples is taken into a plaque tester cell, a control hole is a blank control (no substance is placed), the plaque tester added with the composition for improving the skin barrier containing the fermentation active substance is applied to the forearm of a subject by using a hypoallergenic adhesive tape, and the patch tester is uniformly applied to the skin by using palm light pressure for 24 hours. Skin reactions were observed according to the criteria of Table 4 for 30min (after the disappearance of the indentation), 24h and 48h, respectively, after removal of the plaque tester containing the healing compact composition, and the observations were recorded.
TABLE 6 skin closed Patch test skin response grading criteria
The compositions prepared in examples 1-8 were tested according to the test methods above, and the results are shown in Table 7;
TABLE 7 safety test results for compositions prepared in examples 1-8
As is clear from Table 7, the results of the patch tests of the compositions prepared in examples 1 to 7 and the control group were both negative, indicating that the compositions for improving skin barrier comprising fermentation actives prepared by using Brazil nut (Bertholletia excelsa) seed extract, inositol galactoside, fermentation products of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and cooling agents were mild and non-irritating in the present invention.
The embodiments presented herein are merely implementations selected from combinations of all possible embodiments. The following claims should not be limited to the description of the embodiments of the invention. Some numerical ranges used in the claims include sub-ranges within which variations in these ranges are also intended to be covered by the appended claims.

Claims (7)

1. A composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermentation active, characterized by comprising, in parts by weight: 0.2-3 parts of Brazil nut seed extract, 0.01-0.3 part of inositol galactose glycoside, 1-8 parts of a fermentation product of the two-split yeast, 75-90 parts of water, 2.5-8 parts of a humectant and 0.05-1.5 parts of a cooling agent, wherein the fermentation product of the two-split yeast is a fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast or a combination of the fermentation product filtrate of the two-split yeast and a lysate of the fermentation product of the two-split yeast.
2. The composition for improving skin barrier containing fermentation active according to claim 1, wherein the extract of brazil nut is 0.5-2 parts, the inositol galactoside is 0.04-0.22 parts, and the fermentation product of the yeast schizosaccharomyces cerevisiae is 2-5 parts.
3. The composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermentation active of claim 1, wherein the humectant is one or more of a polyol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, panthenol.
4. The composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermentation active of claim 1, wherein the cooling agent comprises one or more of methyl diisopropylpropionamide, menthol lactate, menthanecarboxamide.
5. The composition for improving skin barrier containing a fermentation active according to claim 1, wherein when the yeast fermentation product is a combination of yeast fermentation product lysate and yeast fermentation product filtrate, the mass ratio of yeast fermentation product lysate and yeast fermentation product filtrate is 1:97.7.
6. a method of preparing a composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermentation active according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the steps of:
step 1: heating water to 70-80deg.C, cooling to 45deg.C, sequentially adding Brazil nut seed extract, inositol galactoside and fermentation product of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and mixing to obtain mixture A;
step 2: uniformly mixing a humectant and a cooling agent to obtain a mixture B;
step 3: adding mixture B to mixture A and mixing to obtain the composition containing fermentation active for improving skin barrier.
7. Use of a composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermented active according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition for improving skin barrier comprising a fermented active is applied to a skin care product.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
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CN112791022A (en) * 2021-01-26 2021-05-14 广州华厦生物制药有限公司 Yeast plant muscle base solution
CN113018231A (en) * 2021-02-24 2021-06-25 佛山市奥姿美生物科技有限公司 Cosmetic oil capable of repairing skin barrier
KR102332989B1 (en) * 2021-05-28 2021-12-01 대봉엘에스 주식회사 Cosmetic composition comprising fermented nuruk
KR20220057360A (en) * 2020-10-29 2022-05-09 코스맥스 주식회사 Composition for improving skin beauty comprising fermented hibiscus extract

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN109303716A (en) * 2018-12-05 2019-02-05 广州蔻赛生物科技有限公司 Plant extraction moisturizing and skin rejuvenating facial mask and preparation method thereof
KR20220057360A (en) * 2020-10-29 2022-05-09 코스맥스 주식회사 Composition for improving skin beauty comprising fermented hibiscus extract
CN112791022A (en) * 2021-01-26 2021-05-14 广州华厦生物制药有限公司 Yeast plant muscle base solution
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