CN117205103A

CN117205103A - Plant A alcohol-containing tightening and anti-aging composition suitable for sensitive muscles and application thereof

Info

Publication number: CN117205103A
Application number: CN202311283841.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 张建华; 刘世超; 郭文姣
Original assignee: Nord Traceability Guangzhou Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Nord Traceability Guangzhou Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2023-10-07
Filing date: 2023-10-07
Publication date: 2023-12-12

Abstract

The application discloses a tightening and anti-aging composition containing plant A alcohol and suitable for sensitive muscles and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. According to the application, at least one of retinol and derivatives thereof, the selective RAR/RXR receptor-activated plant A alcohol and the non-RAR/RXR receptor-activated plant A alcohol are reasonably compounded, and the synergistic effect of the retinol and the derivatives is utilized to better promote synthesis of collagen and elastin, so that better anti-aging effect is achieved, and the obtained composition is suitable for preparing cosmetics such as cosmetic water, emulsion, eye cream, face cream, mask, essence, sun cream, neck cream and the like.

Description

Plant A alcohol-containing tightening and anti-aging composition suitable for sensitive muscles and application thereof

Technical Field

The application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a tightening and anti-aging composition containing plant A alcohol and suitable for sensitive muscles and application thereof.

Background

Aging is an inevitable natural phenomenon in the course of life. The skin is located on the body surface and is one of the most obvious organs for aging in the aging process of the organism. The main characteristics of skin aging are: thinning skin, wrinkling, reduced skin elasticity, pigmentation, muscular atrophy, reduced skin water retention, etc. Skin aging affects the appearance, makes the appearance beautiful and reduces the color, and has negative effects on the psychology of people, and people always want to find a substance which can effectively slow down the skin aging and improve the sagging of the skin. However, the anti-aging effect of the currently marketed cosmetics still cannot meet the pursuit of people, and particularly for people with sensitive skin, the high-activity raw materials often mean high irritation, so that it is necessary to develop a technology which can effectively resist aging and is applicable to people with sensitive muscles.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks and disadvantages of the prior art, the present application is directed to a tightening and anti-aging composition containing plant a alcohol for sensitive muscles and its use.

To achieve the above object, the present application provides in a first aspect an anti-aging composition comprising the following components:

a first component: comprises at least one of retinol and its derivatives;

and a second component: comprising a selective RAR/RXR receptor-activating phytol;

and a third component: comprising a non-RAR/RXR receptor-activating phytol;

the mass ratio of the first component, the second component and the third component is (0.009-0.21): (0.009-2.1): (0.009-2.1).

The first component is selected from at least one of retinol and its derivatives, which is mainly converted into retinoic acid gradually in vivo, combined with Retinoic Acid Receptor (RAR) and Retinoid X Receptor (RXR) to form dimer, activate specific genes to inhibit the activity of Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP), promote the synthesis of collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycan and other components, regulate the metabolism of keratinocyte, and have the effects of reducing wrinkles, improving sagging and smoothing skin. In addition, the components have certain oil control capability, can improve acne, inhibit melanin production and lighten skin color.

The second component is plant A alcohol activated by selective RAR/RXR receptor, is an effective activator of RAR/RXR, does not need to be converted into retinoic acid in vivo, and has good anti-aging effect.

The third component is non-RAR/RXR receptor activated plant A alcohol, which is a plant extract that does not activate RAR/RXR pathways but rather exerts an anti-aging effect similar to retinol.

Under the combined action of the first component, the second component and the third component, the anti-aging composition plays an anti-aging role through multi-channel synergy, and generates the role of 1+1+1>3, and the effects of promoting the synthesis of collagen and elastin and resisting human aging are stronger than those of the three components which are independently used.

In one embodiment, the mass ratio of the first component, the second component, and the third component is (0.049-0.21): (0.049-2.1): (0.09-1.1). When the mass ratio of the first component, the second component and the third component is at the specific ratio, the anti-aging effect of the anti-aging composition is better.

Retinol and its derivatives activate all three subtypes α, β, γ of the RAR receptor, and are too strong, resulting in a long duration of activation of the transcription factor, which, although significant in effect, stimulates the skin's immune system due to retinoic acid converted in vivo, also stimulates the sensory receptor TPRV1, resulting in a series of stimuli, which bring about very serious side effects including stinging, dryness, peeling, erythema and burning sensation of the skin. The selective RAR/RXR receptor-activated phytol A and the non-RAR/RXR receptor-activated phytol A do not convert to retinoic acid in vivo, are milder and sedative. In one embodiment, the mass ratio of the second component to the third component is (0.9-5.1): 1, so that the anti-aging composition is mild and non-irritating, has better skin applicability, is suitable for sensitive skin, achieves a balance between the efficacy and safety of the RAR/RXR receptor for efficient anti-aging, and has reduced irritation without weakening the anti-aging efficacy.

In one embodiment, the first component comprises at least one of retinol, retinoic acid, hydrogenated retinol, retinol retinate, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, retinol Huang Chunya oleate, retinol propionate, hydroxy pinacolato retinoate. The anti-aging efficacy of the anti-aging composition is better when the first component comprises hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester.

In one embodiment, the second component comprises Bidens pilosa extract. The bidens pilosa extract can selectively activate RAR-gamma receptor which is most distributed in skin, can reduce the stimulation to a certain extent, and research shows that the bidens pilosa can activate peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR), the receptor can be used as ligand of RAR/RXR dimer, can play a role in half-time effect while reducing the dosage of retinol and derivatives thereof, and the receptor participates in the repair process of skin barrier, and can promote the proliferation of keratinocytes and skin repair.

In an embodiment, the third component comprises at least one of bakuchiol, sodium tetrahydrojasmonate, red Mao Danshe extract, aconite root extract, cowpea seed extract. When the third component comprises bakuchiol, the anti-aging efficacy of the anti-aging composition is better.

In a second aspect, the application provides the use of the anti-ageing composition in cosmetics.

In a third aspect, the present application provides a cosmetic comprising the anti-ageing composition in an amount of 1% by weight or more of the cosmetic.

In one embodiment, the weight percentage of the anti-aging composition in the cosmetic is 1.2% -4.2%.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic is at least one of a lotion, an emulsion, an eye cream, a face mask, an essence, a sun cream, and a neck cream. However, the kind of the cosmetic is not limited thereto.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic product is a cream, which further comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.1 to 0.5 percent of thickening agent, 4 to 20 percent of humectant, 0.1 to 10 percent of emulsifying agent, 0.5 to 5 percent of preservative, 0.05 to 0.2 percent of essence, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of pH regulator and the balance of water. The face cream not only has good anti-aging effect, but also has good stability, and can meet the requirements of QB/T1857-2013.

In an embodiment, at least one of the following conditions is satisfied:

(1) The thickener comprises at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sclerotium gum and cetyl alcohol;

(2) The humectant comprises at least one of betaine, beta-glucan, trehalose, allantoin, octaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, 1, 2-butanediol, glycerol, pullulanase polysaccharide and ceramide;

(3) The emulsifier comprises at least one of caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetostearyl glucoside, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol tetraester, polydimethylsiloxane, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearic acid, polymethylsilsesquioxane, pentaerythritol distearate and sucrose stearate;

(4) The preservative comprises at least one of 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone and acrylic ester/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer;

(5) The pH regulator comprises at least one of arginine, tromethamine and EDTA-2 Na.

Compared with the prior art, the application has the beneficial effects that:

(1) At least one of retinol and derivatives thereof, the selective RAR/RXR receptor activated plant A alcohol and the non-RAR/RXR receptor activated plant A alcohol are reasonably compounded, and the synergistic effect between the retinol and the derivatives is utilized to better promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin, so that the anti-aging effect is better achieved.

(2) The anti-aging composition has good anti-aging effect, and is suitable for preparing cosmetics such as toning lotion, emulsion, eye cream, face cream, facial mask, essence, sun cream, neck cream and the like.

Detailed Description

The present application will be further described with reference to specific examples and comparative examples for better illustrating the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present application, and the object of the present application is to be understood in detail, not to limit the present application. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art without the inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the present application. The experimental reagents and instruments involved in the practice of the present application are common reagents and instruments unless otherwise specified.

The raw material information used in the following examples and comparative examples is as follows:

bidens pilosa extract with commodity nameFrom chemyupon, brazil;

bakuchiol with the trade name ofFrom Sythenon, USA;

the raw materials not specifically described are all commercially available, and the sources of the same raw materials used in each parallel test are the same, namely the manufacturer and model numbers are the same.

Example 1

An anti-aging composition comprising the following components:

a first component: comprises hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester;

and a second component: comprises Bidens pilosa extract;

and a third component: comprises bakuchiol;

the mass ratio of the first component, the second component and the third component is 0.01:2:2.

Examples 2 to 9

The difference from example 1 is that the mass ratio of the first component, the second component and the third component is different, specifically as shown in Table 1.

Example 10

The difference from example 1 is that the mass ratio of the first component and the first, second and third components is different, specifically as shown in table 1.

Example 11

The difference from example 1 is that the mass ratio of the third component and the first, second and third components is different, see in particular table 1.

Comparative example 1

The difference from example 3 is that the anti-aging composition contains only the first component, namely hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester.

Comparative example 2

The difference from example 3 is that the anti-aging composition contains only the second component, i.e., bidens pilosa extract.

Comparative example 3

The difference from example 3 is that the anti-aging composition contains only the third component, namely bakuchiol.

Comparative example 4

The difference from example 3 is that the anti-ageing composition does not contain a third component.

Comparative example 5

The difference from example 3 is that the anti-aging composition does not contain the first component.

Comparative example 6

The difference from example 3 is that the anti-aging composition does not contain a second component.

Comparative example 7

The difference from example 3 is that the bakuchiol in the anti-aging composition is replaced with acetyl hexapeptide-8.

TABLE 1 compositions of anti-aging compositions of examples 1 to 11 and comparative examples 1 to 7

Examples one to eleven and comparative examples one to seven

Examples one to eleven and comparative examples one to seven prepared creams with the anti-aging compositions of examples 1 to 11 and comparative examples 1 to 7, respectively, i.e., example one prepared a cream with the anti-aging composition of example 1, example two prepared a cream with the anti-aging composition of example 2, … …, example eleven prepared a cream with the anti-aging composition of example 11, … …, comparative example one prepared a cream with the anti-aging composition of comparative example 1, comparative example two prepared a cream with the anti-aging composition of comparative example 2, … …, and comparative example seven prepared a cream with the anti-aging composition of comparative example 7. The compositions of these creams are shown in Table 2, and the preparation method is as follows: sequentially adding the raw materials of each component in the phase A into water, homogenizing and mixing after the carbomer 980 is fully swelled, respectively heating the raw materials to 70-80 ℃ with the phase B, mixing and homogenizing and emulsifying the raw materials at 80 ℃, heating the phase C until the p-hydroxyacetophenone is melted, adding the mixture into the prepared cream, uniformly stirring the mixture, adding the phase D into the prepared cream after the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, uniformly stirring the mixture, and finally adding arginine to adjust the pH value to obtain the cream.

Table 2 compositions of examples one to eleven and comparative examples one to seven creams

Example twelve

The difference from example three is that the weight percentage of the anti-aging composition of example 3 in the cream is 1.2%.

Example thirteen

The difference from example three is that the weight percentage of the anti-aging composition of example 3 in the cream is 4.2%.

Examples fourteen

The difference from example three is that the weight percentage of the anti-aging composition of example 3 in the cream is 5%.

Effect example 1: zebra fish collagen and elastin gene detection

75% of the dermis layer of the skin is composed of collagen, fibrous collagen and elastin form a reticular structure, tension of the skin is provided, the skin is endowed with elasticity, and the collagen and the elastin are mixed together to form a basic substance of the skin, so that the dermis layer of the skin is kept to be complete in structure, and the skin is elastic and compact. Of these, type I collagen is the most abundant protein in skin. The zebra fish type I collagen has the same distribution as human body, and shows high conservation with human body, and the elastin gene is also highly conserved. By testing the expression of zebra fish type I collagen genes (col 1a1a, col1a1b and col1a 2) and the corresponding elastin gene Eln1, whether the sample has the effects of promoting collagen and elastin regeneration, reconstructing the dermis layer structure, and resisting skin wrinkles and tightening can be judged.

The anti-aging compositions of examples 3, 10 and 11 and the anti-aging compositions of comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to the following procedure, and the results are shown in Table 3.

Sample treatment: the anti-aging compositions of examples 3, 10 and 11 and the anti-aging compositions of comparative examples 1 to 7 are uniformly mixed with water at a mass ratio of 0.25 percent at a high speed, then treated by ultrasonic for 10 minutes, then added with fish embryo culture solution to prepare the required concentration, vibrated for 30 seconds, centrifuged for 10 minutes at 6500r/min, and the supernatant is taken for testing. The concentration of the test solution of the test object needs to ensure that the death rate of zebra fish embryos is less than 10 percent (embryos without heartbeat characteristics are defined as death), and 3 concentration groups are arranged during the test.

The testing steps are as follows: (1) healthy 6-day-old zebra fish embryos after fertilization were selected. The test requires a blank (fish embryo culture) and a sample (test sample). 90 zebra fish were randomly selected and transferred to 24-well plates, each well containing 3 zebra fish and 2.5mL of fish embryo culture broth. Culturing in an incubator at 28+ -1deg.C for 24+ -1 h after fertilization. Collecting 12 zebra fish in each well in a 1.5mL tube, removing the solution, adding 0.5mL RNAlater solution, and freezing for storage;

(2) The RNAlater solution was removed and washed 3 times with PBS solution. The solution was placed in an ice bath, the PBS solution was removed, and 500. Mu.L of TRIzol reagent was added. The embryos were homogenized with a particle pestle and placed in an ice bath for 10min. 100 μl of chloroform was added, vortexed for 1min, and placed in an ice bath for 5min. The sample was centrifuged for 20min, the supernatant was transferred to a 1.5mL centrifuge tube, 250. Mu.L of isopropanol was added, vortexed for 1min, placed in an ice bath for 10min, and the sample was centrifuged for 20min. All supernatant was removed, 500 μl ethanol was added, vortexed for 1min, the samples were centrifuged for 5min, and placed in an ice bath for 10min. This step was repeated 3 times. The ethanol was removed, the samples were centrifuged for 5min, and the samples were air dried in a hood with the lid opened for 10min. 10. Mu.L of DNase/RNase-free ultrapure distilled water was added and heated at 55℃for 15min. RNA samples were diluted to 1000 ng/7. Mu.L with DNase/RNase free ultrapure distilled water. RNA was synthesized into cDNA using PrimerScript RT kit containing gDNA Eraser (Takara; cat No. RR047A) and stored frozen. A primer mix and a real-time PCR master mix were prepared for each primer. cDNA samples were diluted 10-fold with DNase/RNase free ultrapure distilled water. Each well of PCR was filled with 9. Mu.LPCR master mix and 1. Mu.L of diluted cDNA sample using 96 well plates. The PCR was performed by sealing the 96-well plate with an optical film, centrifuging the plate for 5min, and performing real-time PCR amplification.

And (3) calculating results: calculating the expression promotion rate of collagen and elastin genes,

promotion rate (%) = (blank gene expression amount-test group gene expression amount)/blank gene expression amount×100%.

And carrying out double-tail T test on the relative expression quantity of the zebra fish elastin genes of the test object treatment group and the zebra fish elastin genes of the blank control group to obtain a p value.

TABLE 3 promotion of collagen and elastin Gene expression

As can be seen from the data in Table 3, the application can better promote the expression of collagen and elastin genes by reasonably compounding at least one of retinol and its derivatives, the selective RAR/RXR receptor-activated plant A alcohol and the non-RAR/RXR receptor-activated plant A alcohol, compared with the use of one or two of them. Comparative example 7 the promotion rate of collagen and elastin gene expression was significantly reduced by activating plant a alcohol with acetyl hexapeptide-8 instead of non-RAR/RXR receptor.

Effect example 2: detection of human body barrier repairing, anti-wrinkle tightening efficacy in 28 days

The anti-aging creams obtained in examples one to five and ten to fourteen were subjected to experimental tests of barrier repair, wrinkle resistance and tightening under the following conditions, and the results are shown in Table 4.

The ages of volunteers are between 45 and 60 years, the requirements of the following cases cannot be selected as subjects in the human skin patch test 5.2 in chapter seven of cosmetic safety technical Specification-2015 edition, any product cannot be smeared in the tested area on the day of visit, the volunteers sit still for 20 minutes in an air conditioning room with the temperature of 21+/-1 ℃ and the humidity of 50+/-10% after face cleaning, and the volunteers are randomly divided into 11 groups of 8 people each. Probe for skin percutaneous moisture lossTM Hex (Coura+khazaka) and elasticity tester Cutometer (MPA 580, courage and Khazaka, germany) were used to measure the initial TEWL values and skin tightness parameters F4, skin elasticity parameters R2 of the facial cheekbone area, and to take a photograph of the facial wrinkles using a VISIA-CR.

The test creams obtained in examples one to five, ten to fourteen and blank creams were randomly distributed to 11 groups of volunteers, each of which was respectively used for 2 times in the morning and evening, and the last group was used for blank creams (no anti-aging composition was added, and the other composition was the same as in example three), and after 14 days and 28 days of use of the product, the test areas were subjected to measurement of TEWL value, skin firmness parameter F4 and skin elasticity parameter R2, the number of facial wrinkles was analyzed, the skin barrier repair ability of the two samples was represented by improvement of TEWL value, the wrinkle resistance was represented by improvement of the number of eye tail wrinkles, the firmness was represented by improvement of F4, and the elasticity improvement was represented by improvement of R2, and the formula was as follows:

TABLE 4 detection results of human body Barrier repair, anti-wrinkle Conditioning efficacy

As can be seen from the data in Table 4, the anti-aging compositions of the various embodiments of the present application have higher TEWL, F4, R2 and wrinkle improvement rates, and are effective in anti-aging. As can be seen from the comparison of the third embodiment and the twelve to fourteen embodiments, the anti-aging effect is enhanced and then reduced with the increase of the content of the anti-aging composition in the cosmetic, so that the weight percentage of the anti-aging composition in the cosmetic is preferably in the range of 1.2 to 4.2 percent to obtain better anti-aging effect.

Effect example 3: sensitive skin adaptation test

This effect example tested the suitability of the creams obtained in examples one to fourteen for sensitive skin.

The testing method comprises the following steps: volunteers 168 were selected between 20-50 years of age, all of whom were capsaicin-positive sensitive skin populations: two filter papers with a diameter of 0.8cm were used and placed about 1cm outside the nasolabial folds on either side and 50. Mu.L capsaicin at a concentration of 0.1 wt% was placed on the filter papers, and the subjects were asked for sensations (1 was barely noticeable, 2 was slightly noticeable, 3 was moderately noticeable, 4 was severely noticeable, and 5 was painful). If the burning sensation of the subject lasts more than 30 seconds, and the degree is positive if the degree is more than or equal to 3 minutes. 168 sensitive skin volunteers were randomly divided into 14 groups, one of the face creams was applied to half face, the skin adverse reaction results were required according to the cosmetic safety technical Specification-2015 edition after 28 days, the skin conditions of all face skin volunteers named thank you were scored by dermatology, the skin adverse reaction grading level standard of human trial test is shown in Table 5, and the sensitive skin suitability verification results are shown in Table 6.

TABLE 5 skin adverse reaction grading Standard for human trial

Grade	(symbol)	Authentication criteria
			0	－	Negative reaction: no irritation and erythema
1	±	Suspicious reaction: mild erythema
			2	+	Weak positive reaction: erythema (red spot)
3	++	Strong positive reaction: erythema, papule and blister
			4	+++	Very strong positive reaction: severe edema, large foam

TABLE 6 results of irritation verification

Numbering device	Negative reaction	Stage 1 reaction	2-stage reaction	3-stage reaction	4-stage reaction
						Example 1	12	0	0	0	0
Example two	12	0	0	0	0
						Example III	12	0	0	0	0
Example IV	10	2	0	0	0
						Example five	12	0	0	0	0
Example six	12	0	0	0	0
						Example seven	12	0	0	0	0
Example eight	12	0	0	0	0
						Example nine	9	3	0	0	0
Examples ten	12	0	0	0	0
						Example eleven	12	0	0	0	0
Example twelve	12	0	0	0	0
						Example thirteen	12	0	0	0	0
Examples fourteen	12	0	0	0	0

Comparing the fourth and sixth to ninth embodiments, it is known that the mass ratio of the selective RAR/RXR receptor-activated plant A alcohol to the non-RAR/RXR receptor-activated plant A alcohol affects the irritation, and when the mass ratio of the two is in the range of (0.9 to 5.1): 1, the irritation of retinol and its derivatives can be effectively reduced, which is beneficial to obtaining a mild composition, and is more suitable for sensitive skin.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present application and not for limiting the scope of the present application, and although the present application has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present application may be modified or substituted equally without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present application.

Claims

1. An anti-aging composition comprising the following components:

a first component: comprises at least one of retinol and its derivatives;

and a third component: comprising a non-RAR/RXR receptor-activating phytol;

2. The anti-aging composition of claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the first component, the second component, and the third component is (0.049-0.21): (0.049-2.1): (0.09-1.1).

3. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the second component to the third component is (0.9 to 5.1): 1.

4. The anti-aging composition of claim 1, wherein the first component comprises at least one of retinol, retinoic acid, hydrogenated retinol, retinol retinate, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, retinol Huang Chunya oleate, retinol propionate, hydroxy pinacol retinoate.

5. The anti-aging composition of claim 1, wherein the second component comprises an extract of bidens pilosa.

6. The anti-aging composition of claim 1, wherein the third component comprises at least one of bakuchiol, sodium tetrahydrojasmonate, red Mao Danshe extract, aconite root extract, cowpea seed extract.

7. Use of an anti-ageing composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 6 in cosmetics.

8. A cosmetic product comprising the anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight percentage of the anti-aging composition in the cosmetic product is 1% or more.

9. The cosmetic product of claim 8, wherein the anti-aging composition is present in the cosmetic product in an amount of from 1.2% to 4.2% by weight.

10. The cosmetic product of claim 8, wherein the cosmetic product is at least one of a lotion, an emulsion, an eye cream, a face cream, a mask, an essence, a sun cream, and a neck cream.

11. The cosmetic product of claim 10, wherein the cosmetic product is a cream, the cream further comprising the following components in weight percent: 0.1 to 0.5 percent of thickening agent, 4 to 20 percent of humectant, 0.1 to 10 percent of emulsifying agent, 0.5 to 5 percent of preservative, 0.05 to 0.2 percent of essence, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of pH regulator and the balance of water.

12. The cosmetic product of claim 11, wherein at least one of the following conditions is satisfied: