CN116653388A - 透气性强的服饰面料及其制备方法、及一种服饰 - Google Patents

透气性强的服饰面料及其制备方法、及一种服饰 Download PDF

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CN116653388A
CN116653388A CN202310593219.6A CN202310593219A CN116653388A CN 116653388 A CN116653388 A CN 116653388A CN 202310593219 A CN202310593219 A CN 202310593219A CN 116653388 A CN116653388 A CN 116653388A
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fabric
layer
fiber
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CN116653388B (zh
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罗峥
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Shenzhen Oriental Fashion Co ltd
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    • B32B5/22Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种透气性强的服饰面料及其制备方法、及一种服饰。所述制备方法包括:将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维;将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将所述高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第一斜纹,作为面料第一层;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为平纹,作为面料第二层;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第二斜纹,作为面料第三层;将所述面料第一层、所述面料第二层、所述面料第三层由下至上叠加设置,再进行浆纱、退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。本发明提供的服饰面料的制备方法成本低且产品透气性能优异。

Description

透气性强的服饰面料及其制备方法、及一种服饰
技术领域
本发明涉及服装制造领域,具体涉及一种透气性强的服饰面料及其制备方法、及一种服饰。
背景技术
服装面料需要具有透气性,因为人体皮肤每时每刻都在进行细胞呼吸,和外界进行着气体交换,透气性强的服饰有利于人体皮肤新陈代谢。
透气性是指气体透过织物的能力,织物的透气性很大程度上影响着服装的舒适性,纤维的截面形态、纱线线密度与单位体积质量,以及织物的密度、厚度、组织与表面特征等,都是影响透气性的重要因素。
然而,目前透气性强的服饰面料还没有一种低成本、易推广且透气效果优异的制备方法。
发明内容
鉴于上述现有技术的不足,本发明提出一种透气性强的服饰面料及其制备方法、及一种服饰,旨在解决目前透气性强的服饰面料还没有一种低成本、易推广且透气效果优异的制备方法的问题。
为实现上述目的,本发明提出一种透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维;将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将所述高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第一斜纹层,作为面料第一层;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为平纹层,作为面料第二层;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第二斜纹层,作为面料第三层;将所述面料第一层、所述面料第二层、所述面料第三层由下至上叠加设置,再进行浆纱、退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
可选地,所述面料第一层的所述纬线密度为7~16根/cm,所述经线的密度为14~32根/cm;和/或,所述面料第二层的所述纬线密度为12.5~25.5根/cm,所述经线的密度为15~29根/cm;和/或,所述面料第三层的所述纬线密度为15.2~30.4根/cm,所述经线的密度为35~55根/cm。
可选地,所述聚丙烯腈纺丝原液的制备过程包括:混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在80~100℃的油浴中加热1~2h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液。
可选地,在“将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维”的步骤中,所述拉伸为3级拉伸;和/或,所述拉伸的温度在150~200℃的范围内逐级升高;和/或,所述拉伸的拉伸比为(20~25):1。
可选地,在“将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维”的步骤中,所述纺丝温度为10~60℃。
可选地,在“进行织造、浆纱、退浆、编织、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料”的步骤中,所述浆纱包括浆料处理,所述浆料包括表面活性剂、柔软剂和抗静电剂;和/或,所述表面活性剂、所述柔软剂和所述抗静电剂的质量比为(0.4~0.6):(0.2~0.4):(0.1~0.5)。
可选地,所述棉纤维、所述大豆蛋白纤维、所述活性碳纤维的质量比为(33~60):(45~72):(5~10)。
可选地,所述高性能纤维和所述麻赛尔纤维的质量比为65:(95~136)。
为了实现上述目的,本发明还提出一种透气性强的服饰面料,由上述制备方法制备得到。
为了实现上述目的,本发明还提出一种服饰,包括上述透气性强的服饰面料。
本发明的有益效果:本发明提供的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法通过将凝胶纺丝得到的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维合捻成纱线作为布料的经线,在保证经线的机械强度的同时,利用了天然麻纤维原有的抑菌防霉、吸湿快干、透气排湿的特点;同时,大豆蛋白纤维纵截面形态呈不规则的沟槽和海岛状凹凸,有利于纤维的吸湿、导湿、透气、传热,并且具有较高的初始模量,进而具有一定的抗变性能,将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维合捻,结合了多孔性物质棉纤维透气性好的特点以及活性碳纤维的抗菌能力。并且,协调编织方式由下至上形成第一斜纹层、平纹层、第二斜纹层,同时保证了透气性、布料柔软性和编制结构稳定性。
本发明通过分别设置经线和纬线的纤维种类,汇集各种纤维的材料特性,协调编织方式形成三层结构,实现对布料透气性能的改善,同时制备步骤成本较低,容易实现和推广。
具体实施方式
为使本发明实施例的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚,下面将对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述,应当理解,以下实施例仅仅用以解释本发明,并不用于限定本发明。
除非另有规定,本文使用的所有技术术语和科学术语具有要求保护主题所属领域的通常含义。
服装面料需要具有透气性,因为人体皮肤每时每刻都在进行细胞呼吸,和外界进行着气体交换,透气性强的服饰有利于人体皮肤新陈代谢。
透气性是指气体透过织物的能力,织物的透气性很大程度上影响着服装的舒适性,纤维的截面形态、纱线线密度与单位体积质量,以及织物的密度、厚度、组织与表面特征等,都是影响透气性的重要因素。
然而,目前透气性强的服饰面料还没有一种低成本、易推广且透气效果优异的制备方法。
为解决上述问题,本发明提出一种透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,包括以下步骤:将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维;将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将所述高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第一斜纹层,作为面料第一层;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为平纹层,作为面料第二层;将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第二斜纹层,作为面料第三层;将所述面料第一层、所述面料第二层、所述面料第三层由下至上叠加设置,再进行浆纱、退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
凝胶纺丝利用聚丙烯腈超高分子量的柔性链分子,在半稀溶液中解去缠结,然后纺丝,再通过高倍拉伸得到伸展链,其中聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在凝固成型过程中没有溶液扩散,仅仅发生热交换,因而初生纤维含有大量溶剂,呈凝胶态,这种初生纤维经过拉伸,成为高强高模的高性能纤维。麻赛尔纤维是对天然植物纤维麻进行处理而制得的一种新型纤维素纤维,将凝胶纺丝得到的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维合捻成纱线作为布料的经线,在保证经线的机械强度的同时,利用了天然麻纤维原有的抑菌防霉、吸湿快干、透气排湿的特点。
大豆蛋白纤维是由聚乙烯醇和大豆蛋白双组分构成的,聚乙烯醇属于碳链高聚物,大分子呈碳-碳链连接,其分子链上含有大量的羟基,平均一个大分子有1400-1800个,由于羟基的极性作用,使得碳分子链的柔曲性降低,属刚性偏强的大分子;大豆蛋白属于天然杂链高聚物,大分子由酰胺键相互连接,链段长度较小,属于柔性链,使得大豆蛋白纤维纵截面形态呈不规则的沟槽和海岛状凹凸,有利于纤维的吸湿、导湿、透气、传热,同时具有较高的初始模量,进而具有一定的抗变性能。将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维合捻,结合了多孔性物质棉纤维透气性好的特点以及活性碳纤维的抗菌能力。
斜纹层采用3x3的斜纹织法,简称“二上一下”,指每两根经线上下方就有一根纬线进行交织,斜纹织法的交织点较少,所以布料的会相对柔软一些,抗皱性、弹性和光泽感较好;平纹层采用平纹编织,每根经线都与纬线一上一下相间交织而成,经纬组织点以1:1的比例交替出现,能够让布料实现轻便、透气之余不会牺牲其结构的稳定性。
通过分别设置经线和纬线的纤维种类,汇集各种纤维的材料特性,协调编织方式形成三层结构,实现对布料透气性能的改善,同时制备步骤成本较低,容易实现和推广。
进一步地,透气性强的服饰面料中,所述面料第一层的所述纬线密度为7~16根/cm,所述经线的密度为14~32根/cm;所述面料第二层的所述纬线密度为12.5~25.5根/cm,所述经线的密度为15~29根/cm;所述面料第三层的所述纬线密度为15.2~30.4根/cm,所述经线的密度为35~55根/cm。在此经纬线密度的范围内织造,得到的三层面料形成的结构较为疏松,透气性能够达到80mm/s以上。
进一步地,聚丙烯腈纺丝原液的制备过程包括:混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在80~100℃的油浴中加热1~2h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液。在一实施例中,凝胶剂为小分子凝胶剂,添加苯乙烯磺酸钠能够增加聚丙烯腈高性能纤维的可染色性,方便后续编织以后的染色步骤顺利进行,优选地,油浴温度为90~100℃,搅拌时间为1.5小时,使得聚丙烯腈与溶剂二甲基亚砜分散均匀。
进一步地,在“将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维”的步骤中,所述拉伸为3级拉伸;所述拉伸的温度在150~200℃的范围内逐级升高;所述拉伸的拉伸比为(20~25):1。凝胶原丝拉伸能够使得聚丙烯腈纤维的结晶度和取向度提高,使聚丙烯腈纤维的大分子链由原来的折叠链向伸直链结晶结构改变,增大了大分子链间的相互作用力,利于分子链伸展,从而使纤维的强度和模量有很大提升。在3级拉伸、拉伸温度在范围内逐级升高和限定拉伸比的前提下,一方面能够减小聚丙烯腈纤维的直径,使得与麻赛尔纤维合捻时形成更多空隙,另一方面能够实现在降低织造经纬密度以追求透气性的状况下保证面料的力学强度。
进一步地,在“将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维”的步骤中,所述纺丝温度为10~60℃。在所述温度下保证聚丙烯腈纺丝原液凝胶化。
进一步地,在“进行织造、浆纱、退浆、编织、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料”的步骤中,所述浆纱包括浆料处理,所述浆料包括表面活性剂、柔软剂和抗静电剂;所述表面活性剂、所述柔软剂和所述抗静电剂的质量比为(0.3~1.0):(0.2~0.4):(0.1~0.2)。在一实施例中,表面活性剂为月桂酸钠盐,表面活性剂在浆液中的浓度,以略高于“临界胶束浓度”为宜,浓度过高,不仅不起作用,而且会引起分子的凝聚,给浆液的工艺性能带来不良的影响。在一实施例中,柔软剂为硬酯酸或石蜡的乳化液。在一实施例中,抗静电剂为二甲基硅氧烷,有机硅类抗静电剂具有优异的抗静电性能和良好的生物相容性。
进一步地,所述棉纤维、所述大豆蛋白纤维、所述活性碳纤维的质量比为(33~60):(45~72):(5~10)。优选地,棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维的质量比为(40~50):(50~63):8。在此范围内,棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维能够合捻形成微观截面呈多孔态的复合纬线,且有适量活性炭纤维弥补棉纤维抗菌性耐霉性较差的不足。
进一步地,所述高性能纤维和所述麻赛尔纤维的质量比为65:(95~136)。优选地,高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维的质量比为65:(110~124)。在此范围内,保证了聚丙烯氰与麻赛尔纤维合捻时能够形成更多空隙,提高经向复合纤维的透气性。
实施例1:
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在100℃的油浴中加热1.5h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液,将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在10~60℃凝胶纺丝,加入萃取剂萃取、干燥后,进行3级拉伸,设置第一级拉伸温度为160℃,第二级拉伸温度为175℃,第三级拉伸温度为195℃,最终得到拉伸比为24:1的高性能纤维;
将质量比为45:62:8的棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将质量比为65:118的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
以12.1根/cm为纬线密度、以23根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第一层;以18根/cm为纬线密度、以20根/cm的经线密度进行平纹织造,作为面料第二层;以15.8根/cm为纬线密度、以38根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第三层;
织造完成后放入浆料中浆纱,浆料中月桂酸钠盐、硬酯酸乳化液、二甲基硅氧烷的质量比为0.5:0.2:0.1,再经过退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
实施例2
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在100℃的油浴中加热1h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液,将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在10~60℃凝胶纺丝,加入萃取剂萃取、干燥后,进行3级拉伸,设置第一级拉伸温度为150℃,第二级拉伸温度为170℃,第三级拉伸温度为200℃,最终得到拉伸比为21.2:1的高性能纤维;
将质量比为48:70:5的棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将质量比为65:120的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
以15根/cm为纬线密度、以30根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第一层;以12.5根/cm为纬线密度、以15根/cm的经线密度进行平纹织造,作为面料第二层;以21根/cm为纬线密度、以35根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第三层;
织造完成后放入浆料中浆纱,浆料中月桂酸钠盐、硬酯酸乳化液、二甲基硅氧烷的质量比为0.6:0.3:0.1,再经过退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
实施例3
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在100℃的油浴中加热1.5h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液,将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在10~60℃凝胶纺丝,加入萃取剂萃取、干燥后,进行3级拉伸,设置第一级拉伸温度为155℃,第二级拉伸温度为178℃,第三级拉伸温度为190℃,最终得到拉伸比为20.5:1的高性能纤维;
将质量比为33:54:10的棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将质量比为65:99的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
以9根/cm为纬线密度、以19根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第一层;以16根/cm为纬线密度、以18根/cm的经线密度进行平纹织造,作为面料第二层;以25根/cm为纬线密度、以40根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第三层;
织造完成后放入浆料中浆纱,浆料中月桂酸钠盐、硬酯酸乳化液、二甲基硅氧烷的质量比为1.0:0.4:0.2,再经过退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
实施例4
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在100℃的油浴中加热1.5h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液,将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在10~60℃凝胶纺丝,加入萃取剂萃取、干燥后,进行3级拉伸,设置第一级拉伸温度为150℃,第二级拉伸温度为160℃,第三级拉伸温度为200℃,最终得到拉伸比为22.8:1的高性能纤维;
将质量比为33:45::10的棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将质量比为65:127的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
以13.8根/cm为纬线密度、以32根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第一层;以24根/cm为纬线密度、以24根/cm的经线密度进行平纹织造,作为面料第二层;以30.4根/cm为纬线密度、以53.4根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第三层;
织造完成后放入浆料中浆纱,浆料中月桂酸钠盐、硬酯酸乳化液、二甲基硅氧烷的质量比为1.0:0.2:0.1,再经过退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
实施例5
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在80℃的油浴中加热2h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液,将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在10~60℃凝胶纺丝,加入萃取剂萃取、干燥后,进行3级拉伸,设置第一级拉伸温度为170℃,第二级拉伸温度为185℃,第三级拉伸温度为200℃,最终得到拉伸比为20:1的高性能纤维;
将质量比为60:72:5的棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将质量比为65:136的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
以16根/cm为纬线密度、以27根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第一层;以20.3根/cm为纬线密度、以29根/cm的经线密度进行平纹织造,作为面料第二层;以18根/cm为纬线密度、以46根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第三层;
织造完成后放入浆料中浆纱,浆料中月桂酸钠盐、硬酯酸乳化液、二甲基硅氧烷的质量比为0.5:0.2:0.1,再经过退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
实施例6
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在80℃的油浴中加热2h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液,将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液在10~60℃凝胶纺丝,加入萃取剂萃取、干燥后,进行3级拉伸,设置第一级拉伸温度为153℃,第二级拉伸温度为163℃,第三级拉伸温度为185℃,最终得到拉伸比为20.6:1的高性能纤维;
将质量比为50:53:10的棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;将质量比为65:121的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
以8.5根/cm为纬线密度、以19.8根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第一层;以25.5根/cm为纬线密度、以29根/cm的经线密度进行平纹织造,作为面料第二层;以22根/cm为纬线密度、以46根/cm的经线密度进行斜纹织造,作为面料第三层;
进行织造,织造完成后放入浆料中浆纱,浆料中月桂酸钠盐、硬酯酸乳化液、二甲基硅氧烷的质量比为1.0:0.2:0.1,再经过退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
对比例1
具体制备方法同实施例1,不同之处在于拉伸比为10:1。
对比例2
具体制备方法同实施例1,不同之处在于面料第一层纬线密度13根/cm,经线密度23根/cm;面料第二层纬线密度10根/cm,经线密度21根/cm;面料第三层纬线密度为50根/cm,经线密度为84根/mm。
对比例3
具体制备方法同实施例1,不同之处在于制得的服饰面料中不含大豆蛋白纤维。
对比例4
具体制备方法同实施例1,不同之处在于制得的服饰面料中不含麻赛尔纤维。
进一步地,对实施例1-6和对比例1-4进行性能测试,具体测试试件制备:试件的尺寸为40*50mm,具体测试方法参照GBT5453-1997国家标准。
将透气性、吸水率的测试结果汇总成为表1。
表1.透气性强的服饰面料的性能测试结果
测试项目 透气性(mm/s) 吸水率/%
实施例1 102.8 229.3
实施例2 93.6 214.5
实施例3 92.1 198.6
实施例4 90.3 195.2
实施例5 81.9 256.1
实施例6 80.2 249.9
对比例1 62.2 178.2
对比例2 49.5 162.3
对比例3 58.1 185.5
对比例4 63.5 165.0
由表1可知,实施例1为最优实施例,实施例1制备得到的服饰面料透气性最佳,推测在实施例1的制备条件下聚丙烯腈纺丝原液拉伸后的强度较高,且纤维直径较小,与麻赛尔纤维合捻时形成了更多空隙,同时棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维和活性炭纤维的比例适中,配合经纬密度达到了优异的透气性和吸水率,可以预见该面料运用在服饰制造中能够提供极佳的穿着舒适感。对比例2调整了各层经线和纬线密度,面料第一层和第二层经纬线密度较疏,第三层经纬线密度均超出范围,最终显示透气性较实施例1下降了51.84%,可知织造密度的调整对透气性影响大于材料的调整。
本发明提供的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法通过将凝胶纺丝得到的高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维合捻成纱线作为布料的经线,在保证经线的机械强度的同时,利用了天然麻纤维原有的抑菌防霉、吸湿快干、透气排湿的特点;同时,大豆蛋白纤维纵截面形态呈不规则的沟槽和海岛状凹凸,有利于纤维的吸湿、导湿、透气、传热,并且具有较高的初始模量,进而具有一定的抗变性能,将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维合捻,结合了多孔性物质棉纤维透气性好的特点以及活性碳纤维的抗菌能力。并且,协调编织方式由下至上形成第一斜纹层、平纹层、第二斜纹层,同时保证了透气性、布料柔软性和编制结构稳定性。
本发明通过分别设置经线和纬线的纤维种类,汇集各种纤维的材料特性,协调编织方式形成三层结构,实现对布料透气性能的改善,同时制备步骤成本较低,容易实现和推广。
以上仅为本发明的优选实施例,并非因此限制本发明的专利范围,对于本领域的技术人员来说,本发明可以有各种更改和变化。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包括在本发明的专利保护范围。

Claims (10)

1.一种透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维;
将棉纤维、大豆蛋白纤维、活性碳纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为纬线;
将所述高性能纤维和麻赛尔纤维通过加捻工艺制作成为经线;
将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第一斜纹层,作为面料第一层;
将所述经线和所述纬线针织为平纹层,作为面料第二层;
将所述经线和所述纬线针织为第二斜纹层,作为面料第三层;
将所述面料第一层、所述面料第二层、所述面料第三层由下至上叠加设置,再进行浆纱、退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料。
2.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述面料第一层的所述纬线密度为7~16根/cm,所述经线的密度为14~32根/cm;
和/或,所述面料第二层的所述纬线密度为12.5~25.5根/cm,所述经线的密度为15~29根/cm;
和/或,所述面料第三层的所述纬线密度为15.2~30.4根/cm,所述经线的密度为35~55根/cm。
3.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述聚丙烯腈纺丝原液的制备过程包括:
混合聚丙烯腈与二甲基亚砜,在80~100℃的油浴中加热1~2h,再加入凝胶剂、苯乙烯磺酸钠搅拌,均匀混合后得到聚丙烯腈纺丝原液。
4.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,在“将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维”的步骤中,所述拉伸为3级拉伸;
和/或,所述拉伸的温度在150~200℃的范围内逐级升高;
和/或,所述拉伸的拉伸比为(20~25):1。
5.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,在“将聚丙烯腈纺丝原液经过凝胶纺丝、萃取、干燥、拉伸后,得到的高性能纤维”的步骤中,所述纺丝温度为10~60℃。
6.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,在“将所述面料第一层、所述面料第二层、所述面料第三层由下至上叠加设置,再进行浆纱、退浆、染色后,得到所述透气性强的服饰面料”的步骤中,
所述浆纱包括浆料处理,所述浆料包括表面活性剂、柔软剂和抗静电剂;
和/或,所述表面活性剂、所述柔软剂和所述抗静电剂的质量比为(0.3~1.0):(0.2~0.4):(0.1~0.2)。
7.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述棉纤维、所述大豆蛋白纤维、所述活性碳纤维的质量比为(33~60):(45~72):(5~10)。
8.如权利要求1所述的透气性强的服饰面料的制备方法,其特征在于,所述高性能纤维和所述麻赛尔纤维的质量比为65:(95~136)。
9.一种透气性强的服饰面料,其特征在于,由如权利要求1~8中任意一项所述的制备方法制备得到。
10.一种服饰,其特征在于,包括如权利要求9所述的透气性强的服饰面料。
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