CN116463854A - 一种双面提花工艺及其应用 - Google Patents
一种双面提花工艺及其应用 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116463854A CN116463854A CN202310216609.1A CN202310216609A CN116463854A CN 116463854 A CN116463854 A CN 116463854A CN 202310216609 A CN202310216609 A CN 202310216609A CN 116463854 A CN116463854 A CN 116463854A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- wool
- double
- fabric
- grabbing
- protease
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 54
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 35
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 claims description 33
- 108091005804 Peptidases Proteins 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000004365 Protease Substances 0.000 claims description 26
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 21
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 15
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 15
- 102000035092 Neutral proteases Human genes 0.000 claims description 15
- 108091005507 Neutral proteases Proteins 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000005543 nano-size silicon particle Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 235000012239 silicon dioxide Nutrition 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 108010020132 microbial serine proteinases Proteins 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 108090000145 Bacillolysin Proteins 0.000 claims description 11
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000002791 soaking Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- LEHOTFFKMJEONL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Uric Acid Chemical compound N1C(=O)NC(=O)C2=C1NC(=O)N2 LEHOTFFKMJEONL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- XJKVPKYVPCWHFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon;hydrate Chemical compound O.[Si] XJKVPKYVPCWHFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- CEJLBZWIKQJOAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N dichloroisocyanuric acid Chemical group ClN1C(=O)NC(=O)N(Cl)C1=O CEJLBZWIKQJOAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical group O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- -1 drying Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001678 irradiating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 102100037486 Reverse transcriptase/ribonuclease H Human genes 0.000 claims 3
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 abstract description 47
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 102000035195 Peptidases Human genes 0.000 description 23
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 9
- TVWHNULVHGKJHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Uric acid Natural products N1C(=O)NC(=O)C2NC(=O)NC21 TVWHNULVHGKJHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229940116269 uric acid Drugs 0.000 description 5
- GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromochloroacetic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(Cl)Br GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000009950 felting Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 4
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000005470 impregnation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000007968 uric acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003197 catalytic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000001802 infusion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003672 processing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/77—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof
- D06M11/79—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with silicon or compounds thereof with silicon dioxide, silicic acids or their salts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/188—Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/35—Heterocyclic compounds
- D06M13/355—Heterocyclic compounds having six-membered heterocyclic rings
- D06M13/358—Triazines
- D06M13/364—Cyanuric acid; Isocyanuric acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/564—Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/25—Resistance to light or sun, i.e. protection of the textile itself as well as UV shielding materials or treatment compositions therefor; Anti-yellowing treatments
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/45—Shrinking resistance, anti-felting properties
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及针织领域,更具体地,本发明涉及一种双面提花工艺及其应用。工艺如下:(1)前处理;(2)织造;(3)开幅;(4)水洗烘干;(5)抓剪毛;(6)柔软;(7)预缩。所得织物不仅毡缩率下降,而且能够使得即使长期放置,多次水洗后,织物不易泛黄,具有了耐汗渍的性能,汗液污染后织物也不易产生异味和泛黄以及手感粗糙的问题;具有更高的断裂强度,使用寿命延长。通过本发明的双面提花工艺得到的织物,尤其是针织围巾具有优异的使用感,能够长久保持细腻的手感和提花纹路的清晰流畅,适合人们在日常生活中佩戴。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及针织领域,更具体地,本发明涉及一种双面提花工艺及其应用。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的提升,围巾不仅仅是是一种生活日用品,也成为了一种装饰品,这也对围巾纺织行业提出了更高的要求。
专利号CN111304820B的专利提供了一种环保双面提花面料的加工工艺,使用复合纱线进行编织,无需染色,得到了用于沙发和汽车的织物。专利号CN105661701B的专利提供了一种粗梳梭织丝光羊毛羊绒围巾的制备工艺,通过先梳毛后纺纱的工艺提高了纺织效率。专利号CN105714445B的发明专利提供了一种镶嵌羊绒短纤真丝围巾的加工方法,通过特定的染色固色工艺,提升了围巾的视觉美感。
现有技术很少对含羊毛的围巾进行双面提花的处理,这是因为,羊毛的鳞片层结构不仅会影响后续双面提花的工艺,使得提花纹路不清晰,不流畅,而且还会影响织物的光泽度。
发明内容
为了解决上述问题,本发明第一个方面提供了一种双面提花工艺,工艺如下:(1)前处理;(2)织造;(3)开幅;(4)水洗烘干;(5)抓剪毛;(6)柔软;(7)预缩。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述步骤(1)具体为使用改性剂对羊毛进行改性,所述羊毛的纤维长度为28-35mm,支数为75-85s,克重为270-320g/m2。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述改性剂包括第一浸渍液和第二浸渍液。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述第一浸渍液为4.5-7.2wt%的尿酸盐水溶液。
优选的,尿酸盐为二氯异氰尿酸钠。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述第二浸渍液包括蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水。
优选的,第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为(1.6-2.4):(34-49):(0.4-1.5):(50-70)。
进一步优选的,第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为(1.7-2.3):(42-45):(0.4-1.5):(50-63)。
通过4.5-7.2wt%的尿酸盐水溶液浸渍后,再用蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅的复合溶液浸渍不仅提高了羊毛脱磷的效果,使得进行双面提花时的纹路更加流畅,同时还降低了所得织物的毡缩率。这可能是由于,第一浸渍液的尿酸盐含量较低,不会对羊毛产生过度的剥鳞,同时和蛋白酶以及纳米二氧化硅协同作用,对鳞片层结构进行氧化,使其变得疏松,改善了紫外催化的效果,提高了各物质发挥作用的程度,影响羊毛纤维间的间隙和缠绕效果,从而使织物的毡缩率下降。上述效果尤其是控制第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为(1.7-2.3):(42-45):(0.4-1.5):(50-63)时,尤为显著。
优选的,有机弱酸为醋酸。
优选的,纳米二氧化硅为亲水性纳米二氧化硅,平均粒径小于40nm,晶型为锐钛矿。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述蛋白酶选自角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶、中性蛋白酶的一种或多种。
优选的,蛋白酶为角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶。
在蛋白酶中,角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶的重量比为(0.6-0.8):(0.7-1.2):(0.3-0.7)。
进一步优选的,在蛋白酶中,角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶的重量比为0.7:0.9:0.5。
更进一步优选的,角蛋白的分子量为800-1500,中性蛋白酶的分子量为30000-50000。
虽然在第一浸渍液中,二氯异氰尿酸钠的含量极低,然而还是会对纤维造成损伤,使得得到的织物在后期使用时易泛黄。为了改善上述问题,申请人通过大量的实验发现,加入特定的蛋白酶,分子量为800-1500的角蛋白和分子量为30000-50000的中性蛋白酶以及Savinase蛋白酶,并控制角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶的重量比为(0.6-0.8):(0.7-1.2):(0.3-0.7)时,能够使得即使长期放置,多次水洗后,织物不易泛黄,此外,还意外地具有了耐汗渍的性能,汗液污染后织物也不易产生异味和泛黄以及手感粗糙的问题。申请人猜测,特定的蛋白酶复配后,形成的第二浸渍液体系的空间位阻发生改变,同时也影响各蛋白酶的结构,导致其只能负载到羊毛纤维分子表面,导致其对织物的损伤交底,保持了织物的稳定性和原有的细腻手感。
优选的,所述步骤(1)具体为羊毛浸泡于第一浸渍液,在25℃条件下反应20-25min后,羊毛和第一浸渍液的料液比为1:24,反应后取出羊毛,将反应后的羊毛浸泡于40℃的第二浸渍液40-50min,羊毛和第二浸渍液的料液比为1:24,同时用紫外线灯照射0.8h,之后用1L水冲洗羊毛后烘干,将水性聚氨酯胶粘剂涂布于羊毛表面,得到前处理羊毛。水性聚氨酯胶粘剂和羊毛的重量比为(15-18):(25-60)。
优选的,所述步骤(2)具体为将25-60重量份羊毛和40-90重量份涤纶送入双面提花机,按72路织入。
所述步骤(3)具体为使用卧式开幅机进行开幅,控制开幅辊线速度30m/min。
所述步骤(4)具体为用80℃的水对步骤(3)得到的织物进行冲洗后,用定型机烘干。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述步骤(5)抓剪毛通过抓剪毛机器来实现,所述抓剪毛机器的抓毛辊的直径为180-200mm,设置抓毛辊的转速230-250r/min,线速度120-130m/min,所述抓剪毛机器的清洁辊直径2-4mm,清洁辊转速270-280r/min。
由于本发明中掺入的羊毛是经过前处理的,为了避免在抓剪毛时抓破布料,使得织物被破坏,因此需要对抓剪毛时的参数进行控制。然而,申请人在生产实践中意外地发现,抓剪毛机器的抓毛辊的直径为180-200mm,设置抓毛辊的转速230-250r/min,线速度120-130m/min,所述抓剪毛机器的清洁辊直径2-4mm,清洁辊转速270-280r/min的时候,不仅仅使得得到的织物更加平整,而且进一步提高了织物的稳定性,使其具有更高的断裂强度,使用寿命延长。申请人猜测,这可能是由于,在后期饱和蒸汽为3.6-4.2Bar的工艺配合下,特定的抓剪工艺可能会影响涤纶纤维和羊毛纤维间的接触角,使得织物整体的性能得到改善。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述步骤(6)柔软通过平幅柔软整理机来实现,设置平幅柔软整理机的运转速度为26-30m/min,运行1-3min后,运转速度加速至360-380m/min,并设置温度80-90℃,时间30-40min,降温至30℃,10min后停机。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述步骤(7)预缩通过预缩机实现,所述预缩时的饱和蒸汽为3.6-4.2Bar。
本发明第二个方面提供了一种双面提花工艺在针织围巾上的应用。
本发明与现有技术相比具有以下有益效果:
通过4.5-7.2wt%的尿酸盐水溶液浸渍后,再用蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅的复合溶液浸渍不仅提高了羊毛脱磷的效果,使得进行双面提花时的纹路更加流畅,同时还降低了所得织物的毡缩率;加入特定的蛋白酶,分子量为800-1500的角蛋白和分子量为30000-50000的中性蛋白酶以及Savinase蛋白酶,并控制角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶的重量比为(0.6-0.8):(0.7-1.2):(0.3-0.7)时,能够使得即使长期放置,多次水洗后,织物不易泛黄,此外,还意外地具有了耐汗渍的性能,汗液污染后织物也不易产生异味和泛黄以及手感粗糙的问题;抓剪毛机器的抓毛辊的直径为180-200mm,设置抓毛辊的转速230-250r/min,线速度120-130m/min,所述抓剪毛机器的清洁辊直径2-4mm,清洁辊转速270-280r/min的时候,不仅仅使得得到的织物更加平整,而且进一步提高了织物的稳定性,使其具有更高的断裂强度,使用寿命延长。通过本发明的双面提花工艺得到的织物,尤其是针织围巾具有优异的使用感,能够长久保持细腻的手感和提花纹路的清晰流畅,适合人们在日常生活中佩戴。
具体实施方式
实施例
实施例中组合物的制备原料均为市售,其中羊毛购自鹰月,纤维长度为30-32mm,支数为80s,克重为280g/m2,角蛋白购自陕西富予邦生物科技有限公司,分子量为1000,Savinase蛋白酶购自诺维信生物技术有限公司,中性蛋白酶购自鸿祥,分子量为35000-40000,纳米二氧化硅购自超泰,为亲水性纳米二氧化硅,平均粒径为10-20nm,晶型为锐钛矿,水性聚氨酯胶粘剂购自安徽中恩化工有限公司,牌号PU1179,涤纶购自杭州永兴化纤有限公司。
实施例1
本例提供了一种双面提花工艺的制备工艺,工艺如下:(1)前处理;(2)织造;(3)开幅;(4)水洗烘干;(5)抓剪毛;(6)柔软;(7)预缩。
步骤(1)具体为使用改性剂对羊毛进行改性。
改性剂包括第一浸渍液和第二浸渍液。
第一浸渍液为5.5wt%的尿酸盐水溶液。尿酸盐为二氯异氰尿酸钠。
所述第二浸渍液包括蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水。第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为2.1:43:0.8:60。
有机弱酸为醋酸。
蛋白酶为角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶。在蛋白酶中,角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶的重量比为0.7:0.9:0.5。
步骤(1)具体为羊毛浸泡于第一浸渍液,在25℃条件下反应25min后,羊毛和第一浸渍液的料液比为1:24,反应后取出羊毛,将反应后的羊毛浸泡于40℃的第二浸渍液40min,羊毛和第二浸渍液的料液比为1:24,同时用紫外线灯照射0.8h,之后用1L水冲洗羊毛后烘干,将水性聚氨酯胶粘剂涂布于羊毛表面,得到前处理羊毛。水性聚氨酯胶粘剂和羊毛的重量比为16:54。
步骤(2)具体为将54重量份羊毛和80重量份涤纶送入双面提花机,按72路织入。
所述步骤(3)具体为使用卧式开幅机进行开幅,控制开幅辊线速度30m/min。
所述步骤(4)具体为用80℃的水对步骤(3)得到的织物进行冲洗后,用定型机烘干。
所述步骤(5)抓剪毛通过抓剪毛机器来实现,所述抓剪毛机器的抓毛辊的直径为180mm,设置抓毛辊的转速250r/min,线速度120m/min,所述抓剪毛机器的清洁辊直径4mm,清洁辊转速270r/min。
所述步骤(6)柔软通过平幅柔软整理机来实现,设置平幅柔软整理机的运转速度为28m/min,运行1.5min后,运转速度加速至360m/min,并设置温度80℃,时间40min,降温至30℃,10min后停机。
所述步骤(7)预缩通过预缩机实现,所述预缩时的饱和蒸汽为3.9Bar。
实施例2
本例提供了一种双面提花工艺,与实施例1不同的是,步骤(5)抓剪毛通过抓剪毛机器来实现,所述抓剪毛机器的抓毛辊的直径为200mm,设置抓毛辊的转速230r/min,线速度120m/min,所述抓剪毛机器的清洁辊直径2mm,清洁辊转速280r/min。步骤(6)柔软通过平幅柔软整理机来实现,设置平幅柔软整理机的运转速度为30m/min,运行2min后,运转速度加速至370m/min,并设置温度88.5℃,时间30min,降温至30℃,10min后停机。步骤(7)预缩通过预缩机实现,所述预缩时的饱和蒸汽为4.1Bar。
实施例3
本例提供了一种双面提花工艺,与实施例1不同的是,第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为1.8∶45∶0.7∶63。
实施例4
本例提供了一种双面提花工艺,与实施例1不同的是,第一浸渍液为6.3wt%的尿酸盐水溶液。第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为1∶20∶0.5∶63.5。
实施例5
本例提供了一种双面提花工艺,与实施例1不同的是,在蛋白酶中,角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶的重量比为0.8∶0.1∶0.6。
性能测试:
1、毡缩率测试:按照IWS TM No.31的标准测试实施例1-5得到的织物,结果如表1:
表1
实施例 | 毡缩率(%) |
1 | 1.75 |
2 | 1.81 |
3 | 1.84 |
4 | 4.32 |
5 | 4.88 |
2、抗起毛性测试:按照GB/T4802.1-1997的圆轨迹起毛起球仪法测试将实施例1-5得到的织物的起毛起球性能,级别越低越易起球,结果如表2:
表2
实施例 | 起毛起球性能(级) |
1 | 4 |
2 | 4 |
3 | 4 |
4 | 3 |
5 | 3 |
3、断裂强力测试:按照GB/T3916-1997测试实施例1-5得到的织物的断裂强力,强力越大纤维越易断裂,结果如表3:
表3
实施例 | 断裂强力(cN) |
1 | 7.09 |
2 | 7.45 |
3 | 8.06 |
4 | 10.25 |
5 | 8.97 |
4、耐汗性测试:按照GB/T-1995标准中的配方方法配置碱液和酸液,将实施例1-5得到的织物裁剪成10cm×10cm分别放入200mL碱液和酸液,30℃下浸泡3h,取出后35℃干燥8h,此为一循环,重复循环10次后,观察织物外观和气味,结果如表4:
表4
5、柔软度测试:使用KES-FB型织物风格仪按照FZ/T01054.1-1999测试实施例1-5得到的织物的弯曲刚度,弯曲刚度越小,织物越柔软,结果如表5:
表5
实施例 | 弯曲刚度 |
1 | 0.0703 |
2 | 0.0703 |
3 | 0.0714 |
4 | 0.0785 |
5 | 0.0779 |
Claims (10)
1.一种双面提花工艺,其特征在于,工艺如下:(1)前处理;(2)织造;(3)开幅;(4)水洗烘干;(5)抓剪毛;(6)柔软;(7)预缩;所述步骤(1)具体为羊毛浸泡于第一浸渍液,在25℃条件下反应20-25min后,羊毛和第一浸渍液的料液比为1:24,反应后取出羊毛,将反应后的羊毛浸泡于40℃的第二浸渍液40-50min,羊毛和第二浸渍液的料液比为1:24,同时用紫外线灯照射0.8h,之后用1L水冲洗羊毛后烘干,将水性聚氨酯胶粘剂涂布于羊毛表面,得到前处理羊毛;水性聚氨酯胶粘剂和羊毛的重量比为(15-18):(25-60);
所述第一浸渍液为4.5-7.2wt%的尿酸盐水溶液,尿酸盐为二氯异氰尿酸钠,所述第二浸渍液包括蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水,第二浸渍液中,蛋白酶、有机弱酸、纳米二氧化硅和水的重量比为(1.6-2.4):(34-49):(0.4-1.5):(50-70);其中,有机弱酸为醋酸,纳米二氧化硅为亲水性纳米二氧化硅,平均粒径小于40nm,晶型为锐钛矿;蛋白酶为角蛋白、Savinase蛋白酶和中性蛋白酶,重量比为(0.6-0.8):(0.7-1.2):(0.3-0.7),角蛋白的分子量为800-1500,中性蛋白酶的分子量为30000-50000。
2.根据权利要求1所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述步骤(2)具体为将纱线送入到电脑横机中进行织造。
3.根据权利要求2所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述电脑横机的编织速度为6-7m/s。
4.根据权利要求2所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述编织时电脑横机的主罗拉设置为6-8,负罗拉设置为6-8。
5.根据权利要求2-4任一项所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述电脑横机的起针点为140-160针。
6.根据权利要求5所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述电脑横机的度目为(7,7,8)或/和(8,7,7)。
7.根据权利要求6所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述电脑横机的总行数设置为1905-1915行。
8.根据权利要求1所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述步骤(5)抓剪毛通过抓剪毛机器来实现,所述抓剪毛机器的抓毛辊的直径为180-200mm,设置抓毛辊的转速230-250r/min,线速度120-130m/min,所述抓剪毛机器的清洁辊直径2-4mm,清洁辊转速270-280r/min。
9.根据权利要求7所述的双面提花工艺,其特征在于,所述步骤(6)柔软通过平幅柔软整理机来实现,设置平幅柔软整理机的运转速度为26-30m/min,运行1-3min后,运转速度加速至360-380m/min,并设置温度80-90℃,时间30-40min,降温至30℃,10min后停机。
10.一种根据权利要求1所述的双面提花工艺在针织围巾上的应用。
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CN202310216609.1A CN116463854A (zh) | 2023-03-08 | 2023-03-08 | 一种双面提花工艺及其应用 |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CN202310216609.1A CN116463854A (zh) | 2023-03-08 | 2023-03-08 | 一种双面提花工艺及其应用 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
CN116463854A true CN116463854A (zh) | 2023-07-21 |
Family
ID=87179554
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
CN202310216609.1A Pending CN116463854A (zh) | 2023-03-08 | 2023-03-08 | 一种双面提花工艺及其应用 |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
CN (1) | CN116463854A (zh) |
-
2023
- 2023-03-08 CN CN202310216609.1A patent/CN116463854A/zh active Pending
Similar Documents
Publication | Publication Date | Title |
---|---|---|
US7313906B2 (en) | Yarn comprising bamboo fiber and the processing method thereof | |
CN100404741C (zh) | 一种生产抗起球羊绒衫的方法 | |
CN102031657A (zh) | 一种桃皮绒棉面料的加工工艺 | |
CN110777466B (zh) | 石墨烯羊毛呢绒面料的制造方法及获得的面料 | |
CN101363158A (zh) | 天丝、棉混纺织物的染整工艺 | |
CN111172654B (zh) | 具有节能减排效果的超软弹性针织面料生产工艺 | |
CN110042650B (zh) | 聚酯机织面料节水前处理工艺及其应用 | |
CN115354490B (zh) | 一种纤维混纺吸湿抑菌面料的制备方法 | |
CN102704262A (zh) | 一种制备牛角瓜纤维纯纺纱的方法 | |
CN105926275A (zh) | 一种毛棉面料的抗菌防霉整理方法 | |
CN101333742B (zh) | 一种ptt长丝复合织物的应力调控加弹热处理工艺 | |
CN103046385B (zh) | 一种粗纺可机洗纯羊毛面料的制造工艺 | |
CN112410988B (zh) | 亚麻针织服装面料的生产方法 | |
CN1483877B (zh) | 一种高支竹原纤维织物及其染整工艺方法 | |
CN116463854A (zh) | 一种双面提花工艺及其应用 | |
CN104674556A (zh) | 一种超高抗起球聚酯面料的加工工艺 | |
CN108486895B (zh) | 一种卡洛丝纤维改性处理工艺 | |
CN1266323C (zh) | 绿色抗菌竹棉制品及其生产方法 | |
CN113930880A (zh) | 一种赛络纺轻薄羊绒面料的加工工艺 | |
JP2022060610A (ja) | 竹繊維を使用して織編みした生地及びその製造方法 | |
CN1139684C (zh) | 改善风格的麻类针织物的生产方法 | |
CN111472169A (zh) | 一种全棉抗起球超柔磨毛面料的制备方法 | |
CN109605844B (zh) | 一种坦西尔纤维与弹性网布的复合布及其制备工艺 | |
NL2033838B1 (en) | Antibacterial colored spun yarn and production method thereof | |
CN114717865B (zh) | 一种纤维面料及其制备工艺 |
Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
PB01 | Publication | ||
PB01 | Publication | ||
SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination |