CN115192471B - Nanoemulsion gel and cosmetic composition capable of improving skin elasticity and preparation and application thereof - Google Patents
Nanoemulsion gel and cosmetic composition capable of improving skin elasticity and preparation and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN115192471B CN115192471B CN202210826737.3A CN202210826737A CN115192471B CN 115192471 B CN115192471 B CN 115192471B CN 202210826737 A CN202210826737 A CN 202210826737A CN 115192471 B CN115192471 B CN 115192471B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/042—Gels
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
Abstract
The invention relates to a nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, a cosmetic composition and preparation and application thereof, wherein the nanoemulsion gel comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-8 parts of hydrolyzed soy protein, 0.1-8 parts of resveratrol and 0.1-4 parts of dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate. The cosmetic composition comprises the following raw material components: 0.1-20 parts of nanoemulsion gel, 0.1-30 parts of humectant, 0.1-25 parts of emollient, 0.1-10 parts of emulsifier, 0.1-10 parts of thickener, 0.01-5 parts of preservative, 0.01-5 parts of EDTA-2NA, 0.001-0.8 part of pH regulator, 0.001-0.5 part of daily essence and the balance of deionized water. Compared with the prior art, the invention can play a role in improving skin elasticity in real time and for a long time and preventing or improving wrinkle formation by simultaneously compounding the functional components.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a skin care product, belongs to the technical field of daily chemicals, and in particular relates to a nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, a cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion gel, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Facial wrinkles affect the appearance of people, and people are always looking for effective ways to prevent wrinkles and make their skin look healthier and younger. In deep wrinkles formed by damage to extracellular matrices such as collagen and elastin in the skin, it is difficult to repair the wrinkles using only moisturizing substances, and therefore cosmetics containing ingredients that inhibit the formation of wrinkles are required to prevent the formation of wrinkles.
When the extracellular matrix is damaged or denatured by ultraviolet light, active oxygen, or the like, it is digested by lysosomes containing cathepsins, and therefore, it is important to regulate the activity of lysosomes in order to prevent skin aging problems such as wrinkle formation. However, lysosomal activity decreases with age or photoaging, resulting in a denatured extracellular matrix that accumulates not only in the dermis, but also in oxidative stress that induces degradation of extracellular matrix by matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) via the ERK/JNK pathway, which also means that impaired lysosomal function also accelerates the formation of wrinkles. Therefore, it is important to maintain lysosomal activity in order to prevent wrinkle formation.
However, the current common anti-aging cosmetics mainly pay attention to the damage of free radicals to skin, and the effective components in the adopted cosmetics mainly comprise vitamins and enzymes, but partial vitamins and enzymes have certain side effects on human bodies, so that the anti-aging cosmetics are not safe enough, and in recent years, researches find that the extracts obtained from natural plants have certain effects, but the anti-wrinkle effect still has room for improvement.
The patent application CN202011345269.5 discloses a cosmetic composition and a preparation method thereof, and a cosmetic with the effects of removing wrinkles and delaying aging, wherein the cosmetic composition is mainly prepared from astaxanthin, dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-yl amide diacetate, acetyl tetrapeptide-2, an antioxidant, water and the like, wherein the astaxanthin, the dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-yl amide diacetate and the acetyl tetrapeptide-2 are used as main efficacy components of the cosmetic composition, and the two components have the synergistic effect, so that the effects of removing wrinkles and delaying aging can be achieved; an Fu rutin and butylhydroxytoluene are used as antioxidants to effectively prevent discoloration of the cosmetic composition caused by instability of astaxanthin, so that stability of the cosmetic composition is improved, but main functional components of the cosmetic composition are easy to inactivate in the preparation process.
Disclosure of Invention
It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, which can play a role of improving skin elasticity immediately and for a long time, preventing or improving wrinkle formation, which would be greatly appreciated by consumers.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the invention provides a nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-8 parts of hydrolyzed soy protein, 0.1-8 parts of resveratrol and 0.1-4 parts of dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate.
Preferably, the nanoemulsion gel comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-6 parts of hydrolyzed soybean egg, 0.1-6 parts of resveratrol and 0.1-3 parts of dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate.
Further preferably, the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity comprises the following main functional components in mass ratio: resveratrol: dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-yl amide diacetate = 1: (1-5): (0.1-0.5).
Preferably, the preparation method of the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity comprises the following steps of:
1) Weighing a certain proportion of hydrolyzed soybean protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate in deionized water, and performing ultrasonic dissolution to obtain a water phase;
2) Weighing a certain amount of isopropyl myristate, tween 80 and tween 85, and fully mixing to obtain an oil phase; the mass ratio of isopropyl myristate to tween 80 to tween 85 is (15-30): (1-3): (1-3);
3) Adding water phase (volume ratio of oil phase to water phase is 1: 5) Shearing by using a high-shearing homogenizing emulsifying agent, wherein the rotating speed is 5000r/min, and shearing is carried out for 10-30min to obtain nanoemulsion containing functional components;
4) Dissolving chitosan in acetic acid aqueous solution (volume concentration of acetic acid aqueous solution is 1%), forming mixed solution with chitosan concentration of 200mg/mL, adding a certain amount of ethyl acetate and span 80, shearing in a homogenizer at a rotating speed of 6000r/min for 10-30min to form W/O chitosan emulsion, adding 0.1% sodium tripolyphosphate of the total mass of the W/O chitosan emulsion, reacting for 1-3 hours at 25 ℃, centrifuging, washing and drying for later use; the mass ratio of chitosan, ethyl acetate and span 80 is (0.5-1): (2-5): (0.1-1), and obtaining a microgel.
5) Immersing the microgel obtained in the step 4) into deionized water, adding glycerol and propylene glycol, and fully stirring and swelling the nanoemulsion obtained in the step 3), thus obtaining the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity; the mass ratio of the microgel to deionized water, glycerol, propylene glycol and nanoemulsion is (0.5-2): (0.5-2): (1-5): (0.5-2): (5-15).
The invention also provides a cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity and a preparation method thereof, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the following components in parts by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition:
0.1-20 parts of nanoemulsion gel, 0.1-30 parts of humectant, 0.1-25 parts of emollient, 0.1-10 parts of emulsifier, 0.1-10 parts of thickener, 0.01-5 parts of preservative, 0.01-5 parts of EDTA-2NA (disodium edetate), 0.001-0.8 part of pH regulator, 0.001-0.5 part of daily essence and the balance of deionized water.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprising the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity comprises the following components in terms of the total weight of the composition:
0.1-15 parts of nanoemulsion gel, 0.1-20 parts of humectant, 0.1-20 parts of emollient, 0.1-5 parts of emulsifier, 0.1-5 parts of thickener, 0.01-2 parts of preservative, 0.01-2 parts of EDTA-2NA, 0.001-0.5 part of pH regulator, 0.001-0.2 part of daily essence and the balance of deionized water.
Preferably, the humectant is selected from glycerin, panthenol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sodium polyglutamate, sorbitol, methyl glucitol polyether, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, dipropylene glycol, and the like.
The emollient is selected from one or more of squalane, beeswax, isohexadecane, hydrogenated polydecene, tocopherol acetate, pentaerythritol tetracocoate, hexyl decanol, canola oil, octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, ethylhexyl palmitate, xylitol, cocoa butter, jojoba oil, triglycerides, macadamia nut seed oil, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol;
the emulsifier is one or more selected from PEG-10 stearyl alcohol ether, PEG-100 stearate, sorbitan olive oleate, PEG600 monostearate, polysorbate-80, PEG-12 lauryl alcohol ether, cetostearyl alcohol polyether-30, PEG-20 sorbitan monostearate and glycerol stearate;
the thickener is one or more selected from polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin, carbomer, xanthan gum, acacia gum and xanthan gum;
the preservative is one or more selected from phenoxyethanol, parahydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, 1, 2-octanediol and sorbic acid;
the pH regulator is selected from one or more of lactic acid, arginine, sodium hydroxide and the like.
The present invention also provides a method for preparing the cosmetic composition comprising the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, comprising the following steps:
1) Wetting and dispersing the thickener and the humectant in water completely to obtain a mixed solution;
2) Adding an emollient, an emulsifier, a preservative and EDTA-2NA into the mixed solution in the step 1), heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing at 3500-4500r/min for 3-8 minutes to enable the mixed solution to be completely dispersed;
4) Adding pH regulator into the step 2), homogenizing for 3-8 min at 3500-4500r/min, stirring, cooling, and adding nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity and essence to obtain cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity.
The invention also provides application of the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, and the nanoemulsion gel can be applied to preparation of skin care products such as face cream, emulsion, essence and facial mask.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1) The invention provides a composition containing active substances for improving lysosomes, namely nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, from the aspect of improving lysosomes for the first time, and constructs a system capable of improving stability of the active substances, prolonging the action of the active substances and improving lysosome functions for a long time so as to achieve long-acting anti-wrinkle effect.
2) The cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity comprises the following main functional components: hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol, dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate. Wherein the hydrolyzed soy protein can exert an anti-wrinkle effect by improving lysosome function; resveratrol has certain inhibition effect on NF- κB channel, MMPs and IL-1β, and can reduce skin injury and aging; the dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate can achieve the effect of relaxing muscles by preventing the nerve conduction of acetylcholine, thereby improving dynamic wrinkles; the three functional components are compounded simultaneously, so that the effects of immediately and long-term improving skin elasticity and preventing or improving wrinkle formation can be achieved.
3) The nano-emulsion gel for improving skin elasticity is more beneficial to the maintenance of biological activity after the hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate are wrapped in the nano-emulsion gel, so that the stability of the effective components can be improved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 shows the activity of cathepsin in the presence of nanoemulsion gels of different concentrations;
FIG. 2 shows lysosomal activity in the presence of nanoemulsion gels of different concentrations;
FIG. 3 shows mRNA expression in the presence of nanogels of different concentrations;
FIG. 4 shows mRNA expression of MMP-1 in cells under UV irradiation;
FIG. 5 shows mRNA expression of SIRT1 in cells under UV irradiation.
Detailed Description
The invention discloses a cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity and a preparation method thereof. The cosmetic composition mainly comprises the following functional components for improving skin elasticity: the hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate can play a role in immediately and long-term improving skin elasticity and preventing or improving wrinkle formation through simultaneous compounding of the functional components.
(1) Hydrolysis of soy protein: the hydrolyzed protein derived from plant protein is selected from conventional commercially available hydrolyzed soy protein, and is widely used as an active substance in the cosmetic market due to its antioxidant and melanogenesis-preventing functions on skin and hair. The research shows that the hydrolyzed soy protein has an improvement effect on lysosomes. The hydrolyzed soybean not only can activate lysosome to digest MMP-1, but also can up-regulate SIRT1 to inhibit MMP-1 expression, thereby preventing or improving wrinkle formation.
(2) Resveratrol: the resveratrol separated and extracted from the resveratrol can be selected from conventional commercial resveratrol, and has the main effects of whitening, removing spots and resisting oxidation in cosmetics and skin care products. Since long-term irradiation of the skin with ultraviolet light stimulates NF- κB pathway, it promotes the formation of IL-1, TNF- α, MMP-1, and also causes high expression of MMP-1, MMP-3 genes and proteins, which induces wrinkles, causes skin relaxation, and causes expansion of microvascular. Resveratrol has certain inhibiting effect on NF- κB pathway, MMPs and IL-1β, thereby reducing skin injury and aging after ultraviolet irradiation.
(3) Dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-yl amide diacetate: a clinical test shows that the snake venom peptide can reduce wrinkles by inhibiting muscle contraction, has excellent smoothness and quick wrinkle removing performance, has the action mechanism of imitating snake venom, can prevent nerve conduction of acetylcholine, achieves the effect of relaxing muscles, reduces the extrusion of muscles to skin, and further achieves the effect of improving dynamic wrinkles.
Examples 1 to 5
A cosmetic composition comprising nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity comprises the following raw materials in proportion as shown in table 1.
Table 1 the proportions of the raw material components (unit: parts by mass, based on 100 parts by mass of the total materials in the following tables) of examples 1 to 5
Cosmetic compositions of examples 1-5 above, comprising nanoemulsion gels that can improve skin elasticity, were prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
1) Weighing hydrolyzed soybean protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate in deionized water according to the proportion of the table 1, and performing ultrasonic dissolution to obtain a water phase;
2) Weighing 20g of isopropyl myristate, tween 80 and tween 85, and fully mixing to obtain an oil phase (wherein the mass ratio of isopropyl myristate, tween 80 and tween 85 is 18:1:1);
3) Adding water phase (volume ratio of oil phase to water phase is 1: 5) Shearing by using a high-shearing homogenizing emulsifying agent, wherein the rotating speed is 5000r/min, and shearing is carried out for 15min to obtain nanoemulsion containing functional components;
4) Dissolving chitosan in 1% acetic acid aqueous solution to form a mixed solution with the chitosan concentration of 200mg/mL, adding a certain amount of ethyl acetate and span 80, shearing the mixed solution in a homogenizer at the rotating speed of 6000r/min for 15min, then adding sodium tripolyphosphate with the total mass of 0.1% of the W/O chitosan emulsion, reacting for 2 hours at the temperature of 25 ℃, centrifuging, washing and drying for later use to obtain microgel;
5) Immersing the microgel obtained in the step 4) into deionized water, adding glycerol and propylene glycol, and the nanoemulsion prepared in the step 3), wherein the mass ratio of the microgel to the deionized water to the glycerol to the propylene glycol to the nanoemulsion is 1:1:2:1:10, and fully stirring and swelling to obtain the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity;
6) Wetting and dispersing the thickener and the humectant in water completely to obtain a mixed solution;
7) Adding an emollient, an emulsifier, a preservative and EDTA-2NA to the mixture of step 6)
Heating to 80deg.C, homogenizing at 4000r/min for 6 min to disperse completely;
8) Adding the pH regulator into the step 7), homogenizing for 6 minutes at 4000r/min, stirring and cooling, and adding the nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity obtained in the step 5) and essence to obtain the cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity.
Effect verification test example
1. Safety test
Test sample: the cosmetic composition obtained in example 1;
the testing method comprises the following steps: security was tested using a third party detection facility SGS. The selected area is not more than 50mm 2 A suitable patch test tester (patch tester) having a depth of about 1mm, wherein about 0.02 to 0.025ml (g) of a test object is added to the patch tester by a closed patch test method. The patch tester was attached to the forearm of the subject (i.e., the test group was set in Table 2 below), the test was removed after 24 hours, and skin reactions were observed at 0.5 hours, 24 hours, and 48 hours after the removal, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction classification standard in the cosmetic safety regulations 2015 >.
The control group in table 2 below refers to subjects who were tested without any treatment according to the test methods described above.
TABLE 2 Patch test results
Remarks: skin reaction grading criterion
Level 0: a negative reaction;
stage 1: suspicious reactions; only weak erythema;
2 stages: weak positive response (erythema response); erythema, infiltration, edema, and possibly papules;
3 stages: strong positive response (herpes response); erythema, infiltration, edema, papules, herpes; the reaction may be beyond the test zone;
4 stages: extremely strong reactions (fusogenic herpetic reactions); obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, blepharospermia, and response beyond the test area.
As can be seen from table 2 above, the prepared cosmetic composition showed no irritation and was safe.
2. Stability test
Test sample: example 1;
the testing method comprises the following steps: the prepared cosmetic compositions were respectively put into the following conditions for stability investigation, and the appearance color, viscosity, and pH were observed for three months.
TABLE 3 stability examination results (W in the Table means week, M means month, CYCLE means cycling at 45℃to-15℃once a day)
| Time | 45℃ | 40℃ | 37℃ | 25℃ | 5℃ | -15℃ | CYCLE | Illumination of |
| 1W | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ |
| 2W | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ |
| 3W | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ |
| 4W | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ |
| 2M | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ |
| 3M | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ | √ |
As can be seen from Table 3, the prepared cosmetic composition has no significant changes in color, viscosity and pH within three months under high and low temperatures or under light irradiation, which indicates that the prepared cosmetic composition has good stability.
3. Nanoemulsion gel efficacy test capable of improving skin elasticity
Test sample: nanoemulsion gels prepared in steps 1-5 of example 1 that can improve skin elasticity;
the testing method comprises the following steps:
(1) Lysosomal activity evaluation: normal human skin fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of nanoemulsion gels of different concentrations (prepared by adding nanoemulsion gels of different qualities to a medium of DMEM medium (high sugar, 10% fetal bovine serum)) for 24 hours and then irradiated with an ultraviolet lamp (2J/cm) 2 ) After further culturing for 24 hours, the cells were lysed with 0.5% Triton X-100, and the lysate was mixed with the cathepsin substrate Z-Phe-Arg-MCA at room temperature for 30 minutes, and the fluorescence intensity was measured. Lysosomal activity was assessed using the lysosomal intracellular activity assay kit (Biovision) continuing.
(2) Assessment of mRNA expression: normal human skin fibroblasts were cultured in the presence of various concentrations of nanoemulsion for 24 hours and irradiated with ultraviolet light (2J/cm) 2 ) After 24 hours of further culture, real-time fluorescent quantitative PCR results were obtained from the cultured cells using Power SYBRTMGreen Cells-to-CTTM kit (Thermo).
Test results:
(1) Lysosomal activity evaluation: as shown in FIG. 1, the activity of the cathepsin in the presence of the nanoemulsion gel with different concentrations is 1600FI/μg protein when the addition concentration of the nanoemulsion gel is 0 in the absence of ultraviolet irradiation, 2500FI/μg protein when the addition amount is increased to 0.125%, 2700FI/μg protein when the addition amount is increased to 0.25%, and gradually reduced after the addition concentration of the nanoemulsion gel is continuously increased; when irradiated by ultraviolet, the activity of the cathepsin is up-regulated with the increase of the concentration of the nanoemulsion gel, and the nanoemulsion gel can play a role at low concentration. As shown in fig. 2, it can be seen that the lysosomal activity in the presence of nanoemulsion gels of different concentrations was up-regulated with increasing concentration of nanoemulsion gel and also functioning at low concentrations. In addition, the activity of cathepsin in cells after ultraviolet irradiation is reduced, but the reduction of the activity of the prepared nanoemulsion gel can be inhibited after the nanoemulsion gel is pretreated, which shows that the prepared nanoemulsion gel can maintain lysosome activity in cells after ultraviolet irradiation and resist skin aging caused by ultraviolet irradiation.
(2) Assessment of mRNA expression: FIG. 3 is a graph showing experimental results, and the mRNA expression of extracellular matrix related substances treated with nanoemulsion gel was evaluated, and it can be seen that nanoemulsion gel can significantly up-regulate the mRNA expression of Elastin (ELN) and SIRT1, while down-regulating the MMP-1 expression. Since SIRT1 negatively regulates MMP-1 expression, the regulation of SIRT1 and MMP-1 by nanoemulsion gels was continued to be studied, and the results are shown in FIGS. 4-5. Under the irradiation of ultraviolet rays, the normal human skin fibroblasts have significantly reduced mRNA expression of SIRT1 and increased mRNA expression of MMP-1. The significant restoration of mRNA expression of SIRT1 following treatment with the nanoemulsion gel also suggests that nanoemulsion gel may prevent upregulation of MMP-1 by uv irradiation to some extent by activating SIRT 1.
Since MMP-1 expression is increased and activated by aging or additional stimulation, degradation of extracellular matrix-related components such as collagen, elastin is a key regulator affecting skin aging. Therefore, to prevent or ameliorate wrinkle formation, most importantly to inhibit MMP-1 expression, and MMP-1 is degraded in lysosomes, increasing lysosomal activity becomes an effective way of modulating MMP-1. In conclusion, the nanoemulsion gel prepared by the invention not only can activate lysosome to digest MMP-1, but also can up-regulate SIRT1 to inhibit MMP-1 expression, so that the formation of wrinkles can be prevented and/or improved.
4. Synergistic experiments of cosmetic compositions comprising nanoemulsion gels that improve skin elasticity
Cosmetic compositions comprising nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, the amounts of the raw material composition ratios and the comparative raw material composition ratios are shown in table 4 below.
TABLE 4A formulation of cream ingredients for improving skin elasticity of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 7 (unit: parts by mass, the total mass of each substance in the following tables is 100 parts)
The cosmetic composition comprising the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity comprises the following steps:
1) Weighing hydrolyzed soybean protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate in deionized water according to the proportion of table 4, and performing ultrasonic dissolution to obtain a water phase;
2) 20g of isopropyl myristate, tween 80, tween 85 were weighed and thoroughly mixed as an oil phase (wherein the mass ratio of isopropyl myristate, tween 80, tween 85 was 18:1: 1) The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the
3) Adding water phase (volume ratio of oil phase to water phase is 1: 5) Shearing by using a high-shearing homogenizing emulsifying machine at a rotating speed of 5000r/min for 15min to obtain nanoemulsion containing functional components;
4) Dissolving chitosan in an acetic acid aqueous solution to obtain an aqueous solution with the mass concentration of 200mg/mL, adding a certain amount of ethyl acetate and span 80, wherein the mass ratio of the chitosan to the ethyl acetate to the span 80 is 1:4:0.1, shearing in a homogenizer at the rotating speed of 6000r/min for 15min to form W/O chitosan emulsion, then adding sodium tripolyphosphate with the total mass of 0.1% of the W/O chitosan emulsion, reacting for 2 hours at the temperature of 25 ℃, centrifuging, washing and drying for later use to obtain microgel;
5) Immersing the microgel obtained in the step 4) into deionized water, adding glycerol and propylene glycol, and the nanoemulsion prepared in the step 3), wherein the mass ratio of the microgel to the deionized water to the glycerol to the propylene glycol to the nanoemulsion is 1:1:2:1:10, and fully stirring and swelling to obtain the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity;
6) Wetting and dispersing the thickener and the humectant in water completely to obtain a mixed solution;
7) Adding an emollient, an emulsifier, a preservative and EDTA-2NA to the mixture of step 6)
Heating to 80deg.C, homogenizing at 4000r/min for 6 min to disperse completely;
8) Adding pH regulator into the step 7), homogenizing for 6 min at 4000r/min, stirring and cooling, and adding nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity and essence to obtain cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity.
The effects of examples and comparative examples of the synergy experiment of cosmetic compositions containing nanoemulsion gels capable of improving skin elasticity were verified (skin elasticity improving effect evaluation), and the experimental procedures and results are as follows:
1. the tester: 80 healthy females (25-45 years old) are divided into 8 groups of 10 individuals each; the same formulation was used for each group.
2. The method comprises the following steps: can be used daily after cleaning face. The test is performed in a room at 20-22 c with a relative humidity of 40-60% and the subject must now be conditioned for 15 minutes in the same environment. The results were tested in the following 4 time periods, respectively: before the sample (D0), after 14 days of the sample (D14), after 28 days of the sample (D28), and after 56 days of the sample (D56).
3. The detection items are as follows: usingMPA580 measures skin elasticity, the closer the measurement is to 1, indicating that skin elasticity is better. (R2 is the ratio of the rebound amount of skin without negative pressure to the maximum stretching amount when negative pressure is applied; R5 is the ratio of the elastic portion of skin recovery during the first cycle of skin test to the elastic portion of skin applying negative pressure; and R7 is the ratio of the elastic portion of skin recovery during the first cycle of skin test to the maximum stretching amount of skin during this cycle). Δr2=r2 (measured after 8 weeks) -R2 (measured at 0 weeks). Δr5=r5 (measured after 8 weeks) -R5 (measured at 0 weeks). Δr7=r7 (measured after 8 weeks) -R7 (measured at 0 weeks).
Table 5 test set effect
As seen from the results of table 5, when the other components were the same, the three functional components of the nanoemulsion gel were synergistically acted (example 1), the effect of improving skin elasticity was better than that of the nanoemulsion gel containing no or only one or two functional components (comparative examples 1 to 7), that is, the skin elasticity was improved: example 1> comparative examples 1-7. Therefore, the cosmetic composition containing the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity can effectively improve skin elasticity, can play a role in improving skin elasticity instantly and for a long time and preventing or improving wrinkle formation by compounding the functional components, and can improve the stability of the functional components and prolong the effect of the functional components after the functional components are wrapped in the nanoemulsion gel, so that the wrinkle-removing and anti-aging effects of the cosmetic composition containing the functional components are enhanced.
Example 6
Cosmetic composition comprising a nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, a process for its preparation comprising the steps of:
1) The hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate are weighed according to the proportion of the example 1 and dissolved in deionized water by ultrasonic wave to be used as a water phase;
2) 20g of isopropyl myristate, tween 80, tween 85 were weighed and thoroughly mixed as an oil phase (wherein the mass ratio of isopropyl myristate, tween 80, tween 85 was 30:1: 1) The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the
3) Adding water phase (volume ratio of oil phase to water phase is 1: 5) Shearing by using a high-shearing homogenizing emulsifying machine at a rotating speed of 5000r/min for 15min to obtain nanoemulsion containing functional components;
4) Dissolving chitosan in an acetic acid aqueous solution to obtain an aqueous solution with the mass concentration of 200mg/mL, adding a certain amount of ethyl acetate and span 80, wherein the mass ratio of the chitosan to the ethyl acetate to the span 80 is 1:5:1, shearing in a homogenizer at the rotating speed of 6000r/min for 15min to form W/O chitosan emulsion, adding sodium tripolyphosphate with the total mass of 0.1% of the W/O chitosan emulsion, reacting for 2 hours at the temperature of 25 ℃, centrifuging, washing and drying for later use;
5) Immersing the microgel obtained in the step 4) into deionized water, adding glycerol and propylene glycol, and the nanoemulsion prepared in the step 3), wherein the mass ratio of the microgel to the deionized water to the glycerol to the propylene glycol to the nanoemulsion is 2:2:5:2:15, and fully stirring and swelling to obtain the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity;
6) Wetting and dispersing the thickener and the humectant in water completely to obtain a mixed solution;
7) Adding an emollient, an emulsifier, a preservative and EDTA-2NA into the mixed solution in the step 6), heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing for 6 minutes at 4000r/min to ensure that the mixed solution is completely dispersed;
8) Adding pH regulator into the step 7), homogenizing for 6 min at 4000r/min, stirring and cooling, and adding nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity and essence to obtain cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity.
Example 7
Cosmetic composition comprising a nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity, a process for its preparation comprising the steps of:
1) The hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-based amide diacetate are weighed according to the proportion of the example 1 and dissolved in deionized water by ultrasonic wave to be used as a water phase;
2) 20g of isopropyl myristate, tween 80, tween 85 were weighed and thoroughly mixed as an oil phase (wherein the mass ratio of isopropyl myristate, tween 80, tween 85 was 15:3: 3) The method comprises the steps of carrying out a first treatment on the surface of the
3) Adding water phase (volume ratio of oil phase to water phase is 1: 5) Shearing by using a high-shearing homogenizing emulsifying machine at a rotating speed of 5000r/min for 15min to obtain nanoemulsion containing functional components;
4) Dissolving chitosan in an acetic acid aqueous solution to obtain an aqueous solution with the mass concentration of 200mg/mL, adding a certain amount of ethyl acetate and span 80, wherein the mass ratio of the chitosan to the ethyl acetate to the span 80 is 0.5:2:0.1, shearing in a homogenizer at the rotating speed of 6000r/min for 15min to form W/O chitosan emulsion, adding sodium tripolyphosphate with the total mass of 0.1% of the W/O chitosan emulsion, reacting for 2 hours at the temperature of 25 ℃, centrifuging, washing and drying for later use;
5) Immersing the microgel obtained in the step 4) into deionized water, adding glycerol and propylene glycol, and the nanoemulsion prepared in the step 3), wherein the mass ratio of the microgel to the deionized water to the glycerol to the propylene glycol to the nanoemulsion is 0.5:0.5:1:0.5:5, and fully stirring and swelling to obtain the nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity;
6) Wetting and dispersing the thickener and the humectant in water completely to obtain a mixed solution;
7) Adding an emollient, an emulsifier, a preservative and EDTA-2NA into the mixed solution in the step 6), heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing for 6 minutes at 4000r/min to ensure that the mixed solution is completely dispersed;
8) Adding pH regulator into the step 7), homogenizing for 6 min at 4000r/min, stirring and cooling, and adding nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity and essence to obtain cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion gel capable of improving skin elasticity.
The products obtained in examples 6-7 were subjected to performance testing in the same manner as in example 1, and the safety and stability were found to be the same as in example 1, but the improvement in skin elasticity was not much worse than in example 1, demonstrating that the amount of adjuvant used was within the scope of the invention and had little effect on performance.
The present invention is not limited to the preferred embodiments, but can be modified, equivalent, and modified in any way without departing from the technical scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. The nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity is characterized by comprising the following functional components in parts by weight: 0.1-8 parts of hydrolyzed soy protein, 0.1-8 parts of resveratrol and 0.1-4 parts of dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate;
the nanoemulsion gel is prepared by the following method:
1) Weighing hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate in deionized water, and performing ultrasonic dissolution to obtain a water phase;
2) Weighing a certain amount of isopropyl myristate, tween 80 and tween 85, and fully mixing to obtain an oil phase;
3) Adding an aqueous phase into the oil phase, wherein the volume ratio of the oil phase to the aqueous phase is 1:5, shearing by using a high-shearing homogenizing emulsifying machine, wherein the rotating speed is 5000r/min, and shearing is carried out for 10-30min to obtain nanoemulsion containing functional components;
4) Dissolving chitosan in acetic acid aqueous solution, adding a certain amount of ethyl acetate and span 80, shearing in a homogenizer at a rotation speed of 6000r/min for 10-30min to form W/O chitosan emulsion, adding sodium tripolyphosphate, reacting for 1-3 hours at 25 ℃, centrifuging, washing, and drying for later use to obtain microgel;
5) Immersing the microgel obtained in the step 4) into deionized water, adding glycerol and propylene glycol, and fully stirring and swelling the nanoemulsion prepared in the step 3) to obtain the nanoemulsion gel.
2. The nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity according to claim 1, wherein the nanoemulsion gel comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-6 parts of hydrolyzed soy protein, 0.1-6 parts of resveratrol and 0.1-3 parts of dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-base amide diacetate.
3. The nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity according to claim 2, wherein the nanoemulsion gel comprises the components with a mass ratio of 1: (1-5): (0.1-0.5) hydrolyzed soy protein, resveratrol and dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian base amidic diacetate.
4. The nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of isopropyl myristate, tween 80 and tween 85 in the step 2) is (15-30): (1-3): (1-3);
step 4) the chitosan is dissolved in an acetic acid aqueous solution to form a mixed solution with the concentration of 200mg/mL, and the mass ratio of the chitosan to the ethyl acetate to the span 80 is (0.5-1): (2-5): (0.1-1).
5. The skin elasticity improving nanoemulsion gel according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the microgel to deionized water, glycerol, propylene glycol and nanoemulsion in step 5) is (0.5-2): (0.5-2): (1-5): (0.5-2): (5-15).
6. A cosmetic composition comprising the skin elasticity improving nanoemulsion gel of claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises the following components in parts by weight, based on 100 parts by total weight of the cosmetic composition: 0.1-20 parts of nanoemulsion gel, 0.1-30 parts of humectant, 0.1-25 parts of emollient, 0.1-10 parts of emulsifier, 0.1-10 parts of thickener, 0.01-5 parts of preservative, 0.01-5 parts of EDTA-2NA, 0.001-0.8 part of pH regulator, 0.001-0.5 part of daily essence and the balance of deionized water.
7. The cosmetic composition comprising a nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity according to claim 6, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-15 parts of nanoemulsion gel, 0.1-20 parts of humectant, 0.1-6 parts of emollient, 0.1-5 parts of emulsifier, 0.1-5 parts of thickener, 0.01-2 parts of preservative, 2NA0.01-2 parts of EDTA, 0.001-0.5 part of pH regulator, 0.001-0.2 part of daily essence and the balance of deionized water.
8. A method of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity as claimed in claim 6, comprising the steps of:
1) Wetting and dispersing the thickener and the humectant in deionized water completely to obtain a mixed solution;
2) Adding an emollient, an emulsifier, a preservative and EDTA-2NA into the mixed solution in the step 1), heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing at 3500-4500r/min for 3-8 minutes to enable the mixed solution to be completely dispersed;
3) Adding pH regulator into the step 2), homogenizing for 3-8 min at 3500-4500r/min, stirring, cooling, and adding nanoemulsion gel and daily essence to obtain cosmetic composition containing nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity.
9. Use of a nanoemulsion gel for improving skin elasticity according to claim 1, wherein the nanoemulsion gel is used for the preparation of skin care products, including creams, lotions, essences, or masks.
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