CN115154367A

CN115154367A - Transparent pressed powder and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN115154367A
Application number: CN202210802927.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 徐琦; 李开艳; 胡海; 陶志建
Original assignee: Shanghai Cosmetic Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Shanghai Cosmetic Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-07-07
Filing date: 2022-07-07
Publication date: 2022-10-11

Abstract

A formula of the transparent pressed powder comprises a phase A, a phase B and a phase C, wherein the phase A comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0 to 24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 14.5 to 16 parts of thickening agent; the phase B comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 54-64 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6-12 parts of polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer; the phase C comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5 parts of preservative and 0.5 parts of tocopherol acetate. On the premise of ensuring the smooth skin feeling and the transparent make-up feeling of the powder cake, the emollient can play the role of emollient and can also serve as grease, a large amount of volatile grease is not required to be added in the formula of the powder cake, and a step of silk cloth oil absorption is not required during production, so that the production efficiency of the powder cake is improved.

Description

Transparent pressed powder and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a transparent pressed powder and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The pressed powder is mainly used for make-up, and is a cosmetic product formed by pressing a mixture of powder and a matrix, and the shape of the pressed powder changes along with the shape of a container. Since the pressed powder on the market has obvious powder texture and is difficult to use before makeup, a pressed powder capable of being used before makeup is urgently needed to be developed to fill the vacancy of the market.

In the published patents, for example, publication No. CN108542802B discloses a cosmetic transparent pressed powder and a preparation method thereof, publication No. CN111840133A discloses a transparent pressed powder and a preparation method thereof, and they provide an invention and a preparation method of the transparent pressed powder, and although the formulas described in the two patents are different, the skeletons of the formulas are all matched by powder, silicone oil and large-dose silicon elastomer. This type of formulation is not efficient in the actual production or in the manufacturing processes of filling, pressing, etc. of the formulation due to the poor flowability of the formulation itself caused by the large amount of silicone elastomer contained in the formulation; or a large amount of volatile grease is added to improve the fluidity of the formula, so that a step of absorbing oil by using powder silk cloth is required to be added in the formula pressing process, grease and the silk cloth are wasted, and the pressing efficiency is low. In conclusion, their industrial implementation is not automated to a high degree.

Therefore, there is a need for improvement, and the present invention provides a transparent compact and a method for preparing the same.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a transparent pressed powder and a preparation method thereof, and the specific scheme is as follows:

a transparent pressed powder, the formula of the pressed powder comprises a phase A, a phase B and a phase C, wherein the phase A consists of an emollient and a thickening agent, the phase B consists of a skin feel modifier and an emollient, and the phase C consists of a preservative and an antioxidant;

the phase A comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0-24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 14.5-16 parts of thickening agent;

the phase B comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 54-64 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6-12 parts of polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer;

the phase C comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5 parts of preservative and 0.5 parts of tocopherol acetate.

Further, in the phase A, the thickening agent comprises 8.5-9 parts of isostearic acid and 6-7 parts of glutamine thickening agent.

Further, the glutamine thickening agent comprises 4-4.5 parts of dibutyl lauroyl glutamine and 2-2.5 parts of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine.

Further, in the phase C, the preservative includes 0.25 parts of caprylyl glycol and 0.25 parts of ethylhexyl glycerin.

A preparation method of transparent pressed powder comprises a mixing process and a filling/pressing process;

the mixing process specifically comprises the following steps: adding all the raw materials in the phase A into the processing tank in sequence, heating to a constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, stirring to disperse and dissolve the raw materials, adding all the raw materials in the phase B into the processing tank in sequence, keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, stirring until the raw materials are uniformly dispersed, adding all the raw materials in the phase C into the processing tank in sequence, keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, and stirring until the raw materials are uniformly dispersed to obtain a paste body;

the filling/pressing process comprises the following specific steps: heating the mixed paste to 110-120 ℃, enabling the paste to have fluidity at the temperature, then defoaming the paste, filling or pressing the paste into a container under the condition of keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, and cooling and forming to obtain the transparent pressed powder.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

according to the pressed powder, under the coordination of a thickening agent and a preservative, polydimethylsiloxane is used as an emollient, a polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer is used as an emollient, isononyl isononanoate is used as an emollient to endow the skin with a silky skin-smooth feeling, silica is used as a skin-feel regulator, a vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer is used as a skin-feel regulator, on the basis that the emollient endows the skin with the silky skin-smooth feeling, the two skin-feel regulators can further improve the silky skin-smooth feeling and can adsorb grease on the surface of the skin to achieve an oil control effect, and tocopherol acetate is used as an antioxidant to delay the possibility that the skin is yellow due to the oxidation of the grease on the skin.

The three emollients in the present invention correspond to the silicone oil in the pressed powder, the vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer corresponds to the silicone elastomer in the pressed powder, and the silica corresponds to the powder in the pressed powder. In the prior art, the powder in some pressed powder is too high to cause the pressed powder to have heavier powder feeling and is not suitable for being used before makeup, and the silicon elastomer in some pressed powder has high content to cause the self flowability of the formula to be poor, thereby causing the efficiency of the filling and pressing process of the pressed powder to be low. Compared with the prior art, the content of the silicone oil is highest, the content of the silicon elastomer and the content of the silica are lower, the emollient can serve as grease while playing the emollient effect on the premise of ensuring the smooth skin feeling and the transparent make-up feeling of the pressed powder, a large amount of volatile grease is not required to be added in the formula of the pressed powder, and a step of silk cloth oil absorption is not required during production, so that the production efficiency of the pressed powder is improved.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.

The invention provides a transparent pressed powder which comprises the following components in parts by weight:

phase A: 0-24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 8.5-9 parts of isostearic acid, 4-4.5 parts of dibutyl lauroyl glutamine and 2-2.5 parts of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine;

phase B: 0-2 parts of silica, 0-5 parts of vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 54-64 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 6-12 parts of polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer;

and C phase: 0.25 parts of octyl glycol, 0.25 parts of ethylhexyl glycerol and 0.5 parts of tocopherol acetate.

The parts by weight of the ingredients in the clear compact can also be seen in table one below.

Watch 1

Correspondingly, the invention also provides a preparation method for the transparent pressed powder, which comprises a mixing process and a filling/pressing process;

the mixing process specifically comprises the following steps: sequentially adding all the raw materials in the phase A into the processing tank, heating to a constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, stirring to disperse and dissolve the raw materials, sequentially adding all the raw materials in the phase B into the processing tank, keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, stirring until the raw materials are uniformly dispersed, sequentially adding all the raw materials in the phase C into the processing tank, keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, and stirring until the raw materials are uniformly dispersed to obtain a paste body;

the filling/pressing process specifically comprises the following steps: heating the mixed paste to 110-120 ℃ to enable the paste to have fluidity at the temperature, then defoaming the paste, filling or pressing the paste into a container under the condition of keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, and cooling and forming to obtain the transparent pressed powder.

Aiming at the formula and the preparation method of the transparent pressed powder, the invention also correspondingly provides a plurality of following examples, and the pressed powder prepared by the formula of the examples is compared with the pressed powder in the existing market to test whether the pressed powder is better. Meanwhile, a plurality of comparative examples are provided, the preparation methods of the examples and the comparative examples are consistent, and whether the pressed powder disclosed by the invention is better produced or not is tested by comparing pressed powder made by the formulas of the examples and the comparative examples with each other.

Example 1

Example 2

Comparative example 1

Comparative example 2

Comparative example 3

Comparative example 4

Comparative example 5

Comparative example 6

Performance test

1. Hardness test of product

The test method comprises the following steps: the hardness of the product was measured using a Mecmesin texture analyzer.

Measurement conditions were as follows: the sample is kept at the room temperature of 25 ℃ for more than 8 hours, a 3mm probe is selected, the submergence speed of the probe is 2.0mm/s, the needling depth is 2mm, and the stress peak value is read as the hardness.

Sample 1-commercial clear pressed powder 1

Sample 2-commercial clear pressed powder 2

Sample 3-pressed powder prepared according to example one

Sample 4-pressed powder prepared according to example two

Watch two

	Hardness per gram
		Sample 1	76
Sample 2	86
		Sample 3	85
Sample No. 4	96

As can be seen from the table two, the hardness of sample 3 (example one) is comparable to the hardness of sample 2 (commercial clear pressed powder 2), indicating that the touch of the two is close, while sample 4 (example two) has a hardness higher than the hardness of commercial clear pressed powder 1, clear pressed powder 2 and sample 3, providing a drier, smoother spread.

2. High temperature flow test of product

The test method comprises the following steps: the viscosity measurement was carried out using a Brookfield DV2TLV, rotating at 20rpm.

Measurement conditions were as follows: the sample was taken out into a beaker, and the viscosity of the paste was measured at normal temperature (25 ℃) and at high temperature (110 ℃ and 120 ℃ with the heating maintained), respectively.

Sample 1-commercial clear pressed powder 1

Sample 2-commercial clear powder cake 2

Sample 3-pressed powder prepared according to example one

Sample 4-pressed powder prepared according to example two

Watch III

Since samples 3 and 4 were solid at room temperature, the viscosity could not be measured.

As can be seen from the viscosity data in the table three, the samples 3 and 4 have reduced viscosity at high temperature, and the fluid state is suitable for filling, so that the samples 3 and 4 of the present invention can perform an automatic filling and pressing process on the basis of ensuring a certain viscosity. The viscosity of samples 1 and 2 does not change with the temperature, and the flowing state is not suitable for filling. If high-pressure filling is adopted, paste in the production process can be sprayed out due to the high-pressure state of the samples 1 and 2, so that the method is more suitable for the manual filling and pressing process with lower production efficiency.

3. Product preference evaluation test

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the use test was performed by 35 evaluators (18-65 years old, female) who applied the sample to the face immediately after evaluation and re-evaluated at 8 hours of use.

The evaluation was performed on the following scale, and the average value of the scores of all evaluators was calculated and determined on the basis of the following scale. The evaluation items include: softness, makeup fitting degree, makeup holding degree and smoothness.

Rating evaluation criteria (5 point system): very preferably 5 points; the good is 3 minutes; the comparative difference was 1 point, and the difference was 0 point.

Sample 1-commercial clear pressed powder 1

Sample 2-commercial clear pressed powder 2

Sample 3-pressed powder prepared according to example one

Sample 4-pressed powder prepared according to example two

Watch four

The results are shown in table four, and the comparison between the sample 3 and the sample 4 and the comparison between the sample 1 and the sample 2 show that the performances are equivalent in the dimensions of softness, makeup fitting degree and makeup holding degree, and certain advantages are achieved; especially, the advantages of the sample 3 and the sample 4 are more obvious in the dimension of smoothness and stacking difficulty of subsequent makeup. Through preference evaluation tests, the powder cake formula provided by the invention can obviously improve the use experience of consumers.

It should be noted that, in example 2, compared to example 1, isononyl isononanoate in the emollient was removed and silica, vinyl dimethicone/polymethylsilsesquioxane crosspolymer in the skin feel modifier was used instead, so long as the total content of emollient is not less than 76 parts and the total content of skin feel modifier is not more than 7 parts, the cake obtained is better in hardness and viscosity effect, and can provide smooth skin feel for the user, while ensuring that each component of the cake is within the protection scope of the present invention.

In order to further verify the reasonability of the components in the formula of the pressed powder, the pressed powder prepared according to the comparative examples 1-6 is also subjected to a product hardness test and a product high-temperature fluidity test, the results of the product hardness test are shown in a fifth table, and the results of the product high-temperature fluidity test are shown in a sixth table.

Watch five

	Hardness per gram
		Comparative example 1	44
Comparative example 2	152
		Comparative example 3	140
Comparative example 4	53
		Comparative example 5	155
Comparative example 6	102
		Example 1	85
Example 2	96

Watch six

Polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, isononyl isononanoate are all emollients, isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine are all thickeners, octylglycol, ethylhexylglycerin are all preservatives, tocopheryl acetate is an antioxidant, silica, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer are all skin feel modifiers.

By comparing example 1 and comparative examples 1-3 by hardness measurement, we can see from table five that the hardness of comparative example 1 is less than that of example 1, and the hardness of comparative example 1 is much less than that of comparative examples 2, 3, and the hardness of comparative examples 2, 3 is greater than that of example 1.

It can be concluded that in comparative example 1, with the increase of emollient (dimethicone) and decrease of thickener (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine) the cake produced is too hard and soft to provide a dry, smooth spread compared to example 1, under the premise that preservative, antioxidant and skin feel modifier are consistent. Compared with example 1, in comparative example 2, the hardness of the prepared cake was too high and it was inconvenient to take powder as the emollient (isononyl isononanoate) was decreased and the thickener (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine) was increased on the premise that the preservative, antioxidant and skin feel modifier were consistent.

Moreover, the three thickeners of comparative example 1 are all smaller than the protective range of the corresponding components of the present invention, the three thickeners of comparative example 2 are all larger than the protective range of the corresponding components of the present invention, and the contents of the other components except the thickeners of comparative examples 1 and 2 are within the protective range of the present invention, so that it can be demonstrated that the total content of the thickeners is too small or too much to impart moderate hardness to the compact, and the total content of the thickeners cannot be less than 14.5 parts and cannot be more than 17 parts.

In comparative example 3, compared with example 1, the skin feel modifier (silica, vinyl dimethyl silicone/polymethyl siloxane silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer) is additionally added in comparative example 3, and compared with example 1, the thickening agent (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethyl hexanoyl glutamine) is added in comparative example 3, the emollient (isononyl isononanoate) is reduced, and the hardness of the prepared powder cake is too large, so that powder taking is inconvenient. Comparative example 3 the addition of additional skin feel modifier (silica, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer) compared to comparative example 2, reduced the thickener (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine), again demonstrating that even with the addition of a portion of the powder to comparative example 3, i.e., a portion of the skin feel modifier in place of the thickener, the total level of thickener is too high to impart hardness to the cake.

Comparing example 2 with comparative examples 4-6, we can see that the hardness of comparative example 4 is less than that of example 2, and that the hardness of comparative example 2 is much less than that of comparative examples 5, 6, and that the hardness of comparative examples 5, 6 is greater than that of example 2.

It can be concluded that in comparative example 4, with the addition of emollients (dimethicone), the reduction of thickeners (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine), and the addition of skin feel modifiers (silica, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer), the compact produced has less hardness and is softer, and does not provide a dry, smooth finish, as compared to example 2, with consistent preservatives, antioxidants. Furthermore, the polydimethylsiloxane of comparative example 4 is larger than the protective range of the present invention, the three thickeners are smaller than the protective range of the corresponding ingredients of the present invention, and the two skin-feel modifiers are larger than the protective range of the present invention, it can be demonstrated that, although the total content of the emollient of comparative example 4 is larger than 76 parts, the total content of the thickener is too small, and the total content of the skin-feel modifier is too large, which cannot impart moderate hardness to the pressed powder.

Compared with example 2, in comparative example 5, on the premise that the preservative, the antioxidant and the skin feel modifier are consistent, the hardness of the prepared pressed powder is too high along with the reduction of the emollient (polydimethylsiloxane) and the increase of the thickening agent (isostearic acid, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine), and powder taking is inconvenient. Furthermore, in comparative example 5 where all three emollients were below the protective range of the present invention and all three thickeners were above the protective range of the present invention, it can be demonstrated that the total content of the emollients was less than 76 parts and the total content of the thickeners exceeded 17 parts, and the resulting compact could not impart moderate hardness to the compact.

Compared with example 2, in comparative example 6, with the reduction of the emollients (polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer) and the increase of the skin feel modifier (silica, vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross-linked polymer), the prepared cake has slightly worse hardness than that of example 2 and slightly worse smooth skin feel as compared with example 2 under the premise that the preservatives, antioxidant and thickener are consistent, although the total content of the emollients of example 2 is less than 76 parts, the total content of the thickener is 17 parts and the skin feel modifier exceeds 7 parts, the polydimethylsiloxane is not in the protective range of the invention, and the two skin feel modifiers are not in the protective range of the invention, so that the viscosity of comparative example 2 is too large and the flowability is poor, therefore, even if the hardness of comparative example 6 is closer to that of example 2, the flow state of the cake of comparative example 6 is not suitable for filling.

In the viscosity test, we compared the viscosities of comparative examples 1-6 and examples 1-2 at temperatures of 110 ℃ and 120 ℃ to evaluate the fluidity of each paste at high temperature. The pressed powder of the invention is transparent, according to industrial experience, the pressed powder is not easy to be completely defoamed when being defoamed at high temperature under the condition of high viscosity (for example, under a silicon elastomer system of more than 10000 cps), and bubbles are remained in the pressed powder to cause defects on appearance.

As can be seen from the data of the viscosity test in Table six, the viscosities of comparative examples 3 to 6 at 110 ℃ and 120 ℃ both exceeded 10000cps, and air bubbles remained easily in the compact, which is not a preferred example.

While comparative example 2 has viscosities at 110 c and 120 c close to those of example 1, although there are few residual bubbles in the compact, comparative example 2 has a relatively poor hardness, and comparative example 2 is not preferred from a comprehensive viewpoint.

Comparative example 1, however, is not preferred because it has too low a viscosity at 110 c and 120 c, poor fluidity, and is not convenient for the filling process.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and all technical solutions belonging to the idea of the present invention belong to the protection scope of the present invention. It should be noted that modifications and adaptations to those skilled in the art without departing from the principles of the present invention should also be considered as within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A transparent pressed powder, characterized in that the formula of the pressed powder comprises a phase A, a phase B and a phase C, wherein the phase A consists of an emollient and a thickening agent, the phase B consists of a skin feel modifier and an emollient, and the phase C consists of a preservative and an antioxidant;

the phase A comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0 to 24.5 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 14.5 to 16 parts of thickening agent;

2. The pressed powder of claim 1, wherein the thickener comprises 8.5-9 parts isostearic acid and 6-7 parts glutamine thickener in phase a.

3. The pressed powder of claim 1, wherein the glutamine based thickener comprises 4-4.5 parts of dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, 2-2.5 parts of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine.

4. The pressed powder of claim 3, wherein the preservative comprises 0.25 parts of caprylyl glycol and 0.25 parts of ethylhexyl glycerin in the C phase.

5. A method for preparing the transparent pressed powder of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the preparation method comprises a mixing process and a filling/pressing process;

the filling/pressing process comprises the following specific steps: heating the mixed paste to 110-120 ℃ to enable the paste to have fluidity at the temperature, then defoaming the paste, filling or pressing the paste into a container under the condition of keeping the constant temperature of 110-120 ℃, and cooling and forming to obtain the transparent pressed powder.