CN115151234A - 三相美容组合物 - Google Patents
三相美容组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115151234A CN115151234A CN202080082968.7A CN202080082968A CN115151234A CN 115151234 A CN115151234 A CN 115151234A CN 202080082968 A CN202080082968 A CN 202080082968A CN 115151234 A CN115151234 A CN 115151234A
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种三相美容组合物，其包含水性下部相、非有机硅油性中间相和非有机硅油性上部相。本发明还涉及所述组合物用于皮肤和/或头发护理、皮肤和/或头发清洁和/或皮肤和/或头发增香和/或从皮肤、特别是脸部卸妆的美容用途，以及使用所述组合物的美容方法。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种三相美容组合物，其包含水性下部相、非有机硅油性中间相和非有机硅油性上部相。它还涉及该组合物用于对皮肤和/或头发进行护理、清洁和/或增香和/或从皮肤、尤其是面部卸妆的美容用途，还涉及使用该组合物的美容方法。
背景技术
市场上现有的美容组合物由三个可见的不同相组成。这些三相组合物不同于三重乳液，三重乳液是在静止时由通常肉眼不可见的水包油乳液液滴分散在连续油相中或油包水乳液液滴在连续水相中的分散体组成的。在三相组合物中，下部相在静止时通常由最致密的水相组成，中间相和上部相中的至少一个是油相。这些相各自通过一个通常水平的连续界面与相邻相分隔开。该界面可通过在每个相中使用不同的染料来突出显示。三相组合物在使用前需要摇晃以形成临时乳液。后者必须足够稳定以允许同时施用该三相，但在静止时，要使该三相迅速分离以返回其初始状态。
文献WO 2019/002579中描述了含有水性下部相、水性中间相和油性上部相的三相组合物的实例。
此外，许多三相组合物是可商购的，并且特别是用作皮肤卸妆乳或用作护理和/或保护头发的喷雾。然而，大多数包含高比例的硅油(二甲基硅油)或液体石蜡(矿物油)。然而，消费者越来越追求含有天然来源成分的美容产品，因此正在远离含有合成油或石化来源的油、例如有机硅和矿物油的产品。
因此提出了一些不含上述化合物的组合物(特别是RenéFurterer三相再生抗脱发精华素)。然而，这些组合物含有高比例的醇，这使得它们不适合用于眼部卸妆或彻底的脸部卸妆。
由SEPPIC公司提出的另一种解决方案在于使用蓖麻油和
L15的组合，
L15是植物来源的直链C15-C19烷烃的混合物。这种组合可以配制由水性下部相、基于蓖麻油的极性油性中间相、和非极性油性上部相即
L15组成的三相组合物。要在所述水相和所述中间油相之间获得清晰的界面，需要向后者添加基于烷基多糖苷的特定表面活性剂并向前者添加盐，这限制了配方设计师的回旋余地。最重要的是，获得具有令人满意的外观的组合物的推荐比例对应于70/30的脂肪相/水相比。因此获得的组合物具有油腻感，适合于所推荐的头发施用，但不适合用作卸妆乳。本申请人还证明，通过增加水相的比例，当该组合物在摇晃后恢复静止时，所获得的界面并不清晰。
因此，据本申请人所知，一种不含硅油、含有至少50重量％的水相和两种不同的油相并且在静止时具有清晰界面的三相组合物还从未提出过。
经过大量研究后，由于明智地选择了所述三相的成分，本申请人成功地调和了所有这些要求。
发明内容
因此，本发明涉及一种三相美容组合物，其包含：(a)水性下部相，其占所述组合物重量的至少50％并含有相对于所述组合物总重量的2重量％至15重量％的甘油，(b)非有机硅油性中间相，其含有蓖麻油和任选的至少一种植物油，和(c)非有机硅油性上部相，其含有至少一种直链或支链C10-C20烷烃，应理解，当所述油性中间相含有至少一种植物油时，所述蓖麻油与所述植物油的重量比为至少65:35。
它还涉及该组合物用于对皮肤和/或头发进行护理、清洁和/或增香和/或从皮肤、尤其是面部卸妆的美容用途。
它还涉及一种用于对皮肤和/或头发进行护理、清洁和/或增香和/或从皮肤、尤其是面部卸妆的美容方法，所述方法包括在皮肤上局部施用该组合物。
具体实施方式
首先，要注意的是，贯穿本说明书所使用的表述“之间”包括对应于所讨论范围的下限和上限的值。
本发明的组合物包含三个单独的相，即水性下部相、非有机硅油性中间相和非有机硅油性上部相，现在将详细地描述它们的成分。
水性下部相
本发明的组合物的水性下部相占组合物总重量的至少50％，例如组合物总重量的50％至90％、优选60％至85％、更优选70％至80％。它进一步含有相对于组合物总重量的48重量％至73重量％的水，优选50重量％至65重量％的水，更优选50重量％至60重量％的水。此外，所述水性下部相包含相对于组合物总重量的2重量％至15重量％的甘油。有利地，所述甘油占相对于组合物总重量的4重量％至10重量％。事实上已经观察到，以这些比例使用的甘油改善了所述水性下部相和所述油性中间相之间界面的清晰度。
除上述成分外，所述水性下部相可包含一种或多种选自以下的附加成分：至少一种表面活性剂，其可选自非离子表面活性剂，有利地选自烷基聚葡糖苷，和/或选自两性表面活性剂，例如椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱；至少一种染料；至少一种活性剂，例如水性植物提取物；及其混合物。
所述水性下部相通常含有至少一种适合于将所述组合物的pH带到5至6.0范围内的pH调节剂。它还可含有少量的醇，例如，相对于组合物的总重量，1重量％至10重量％并优选至多5重量％的乙醇，和/或盐，例如0.1重量％至5重量％的NaCl和/或碳酸氢钠并优选至多2重量％的NaCl和/或碳酸氢钠。
此外，根据本发明的一个实施方式，所述水性下部相含有至少一种染料，所述染料适合于赋予所述水性下部相不同于所述油性中间相的颜色。
非有机硅油性中间相
本发明的组合物的油性中间相含有蓖麻油，其量可以例如占相对于组合物总重量的5重量％至25重量％，优选10重量％至20重量％，更优选10重量％至15重量％。蓖麻油基本上由蓖麻油酸甘油三酯、即羟基脂肪酸甘油三酯组成。
在本发明的一个优选实施方式中，所述油性中间相还含有至少一种其它植物油，蓖麻油与植物油的重量比为至少65:35。具体而言，已观察到以上述比例使用植物油可以改善所述组合物的触感，且无损于三相组合物的获得。蓖麻油与植物油的重量比有利地为至少70:30，优选在70:30和90:10之间。
在本说明书的上下文中，术语“油”应理解为是指在室温(25℃)和大气压(105Pa)下为液态的化合物，当将其在25℃下以至少1重量％的比例引入水中时，完全不溶于水，或相对于引入水中的油的重量，至多溶解少于10重量％。
所述植物油尤其可以通过机械压榨、经常是冷压果实、坚果或植物种子而获得。它们的构成为约95％的甘油三酯，其余为甘油单酯和甘油二酯以及被称为不皂化物的化合物，例如醇、类胡萝卜素、叶绿素、烃、甾醇和生育酚。所述甘油三酯本身可以是简单的(甘油和三分子相同脂肪酸的三酯)或混合的(甘油与两种或三种不同脂肪酸的三酯)，混合酯占优势。所述植物油中含有的脂肪酸是饱和和/或不饱和脂肪酸，它们的链长在4和22个碳原子之间，大部分在12和18个碳原子之间。
可以使用的植物油的实例可选自小麦胚芽油、向日葵油、摩洛哥坚果油、木槿油、芫荽油、葡萄籽油、芝麻油、玉米油、杏仁油、乳木果油、鳄梨油、橄榄油、大豆油、甜杏仁油、棕榈油、菜籽油、棉籽油、榛子油、澳洲坚果油、荷荷巴油、苜蓿油、红栗南瓜油、南瓜油、黑加仑油、月见草油、薰衣草油、琉璃苣油、小米油、大麦油、藜麦油、黑麦油、红花油、烛果油、西番莲油、麝香玫瑰油、蓝蓟油、亚麻荠油、山茶油及其混合物。
根据本发明的一个实施方式，所述油性中间相还含有至少一种染料，所述染料适合赋予所述油性中间相不同于所述水性下部相和所述油性上部相的颜色。
它还可含有至少一种选自以下的附加成分：在极性油性介质中为脂溶性或脂分散性的活性剂和/或UV屏蔽剂，抗氧化剂，防腐剂，脂肪相结构化剂，表面活性剂，及其混合物。
相反，本发明组合物的油性中间相不含任何有机硅化合物，例如硅油、弹性体、树胶或树脂。特别是，它不含基于直链、支链或环状有机聚硅氧烷的油。更特别地，优选所述油性中间相不包含除蓖麻油和任选的至少一种其它植物油之外的任何油。
所述中间相可以占相对于组合物总重量的8重量％至30重量％、优选10重量％至20重量％、更佳为12重量％至20重量％。
非有机硅油性上部相
本发明组合物的油性上部相含有至少一种直链或支链C10-C20烷烃。该化合物可以占相对于组合物总重量的5重量％至25重量％、优选8重量％至20重量％、更优选8重量％至15重量％。
直链或支链C10-C20烷烃的实例可选自癸烷、十一烷、十二烷、异十二烷、十三烷、十四烷、十五烷、十六烷、异十六烷、十七烷、十八烷、十九烷、二十烷及其混合物。
这些烷烃中的一些是挥发性的，尤其是癸烷、十一烷和异十二烷，而其它是不挥发性的，尤其是十四烷和十五烷。“挥发性烷烃”应理解为是指在室温(20℃)和大气压下具有约0.001至300mmHg并优选0.01至10mmHg的蒸气压的烷烃。有利地，这些烷烃还具有低于100℃、优选在50℃和95℃之间、例如在70℃和90℃之间、或甚至在80℃和90℃之间的闪点(根据ASTM D93标准测量)和/或在40℃下小于5cSt或甚至在1和3cSt之间的运动粘度。直链烷烃的实例是特别如申请EP 1798213中所述并由BASF以商品名
Ultimate出售的直链C11和C13烷烃；由BIOSYNTHIS以商品名
出售的直链C12和C14烷烃的混合物；由SEPPIC以商品名
L15出售的直链C15-C19烷烃的混合物；可得自SASOL的商品名为
的直链烷烃；以及可得自AMYRIS的商品名为Neossance 
的直链C13-C15烷烃的混合物。
根据本发明，优选使用直链C10-C20烷烃，更优选使用直链烷烃的混合物。
除了上述非极性性质的油之外，本发明的组合物还可含有至少一种其它非极性或轻度极性的油。“非极性或轻度极性的油”在本说明书中应理解为是指极性指数、即该油和水之间的界面张力大于20mN/m的油。
非极性或轻度极性油的实例是二烷基醚，例如二辛基醚；碳酸二烷基酯，例如碳酸二辛酯；烃，例如角鲨烷和角鲨烯；聚烯烃，例如氢化聚异丁烯和聚癸烯；矿物油；C12-C44酸的酯，例如月桂酸己酯；及其混合物。然而，优选所述油性上部相不含除上述一种或多种直链烷烃之外的任何油。
所述油性上部相可以占相对于组合物总重量的8重量％至30重量％，优选10重量％至20重量％。显然应理解，构成本发明组合物的所述三个相的百分比总和始终等于100％。
根据本发明的一个实施方式，所述油性上部相含有至少一种选自以下的附加成分：香料，抗氧化剂例如生育酚及其酯，脂肪相结构化剂，表面活性剂，在非极性油性介质中为脂溶性或脂分散性的活性剂和/或UV屏蔽剂，防腐剂，及其混合物。
特别地，根据本发明的一个实施方式，所述油性上部相含有至少一种染料，所述染料适合于赋予所述油性上部相不同于所述油性中间相的颜色。
然而，正如所述中间相一样，本发明组合物的上部相不含任何有机硅化合物。此外，优选所述油性上部相不含除上述直链或支链烷烃和任选的一种或多种香料、染料、抗氧化剂和/或防腐剂之外的任何成分。
如上所述，本发明组合物的所述三个相中的至少一个可含有活性剂。优选它是抗衰老活性剂，特别是适合于预防和/或治疗皱纹、皮肤下垂和/或色素斑形成的活性剂，其特别可选自自由基清除剂、刺激角化细胞和/或成纤维细胞分化和/或增殖的活性剂；刺激糖胺聚糖和/或胶原蛋白和/或真皮表皮锚定原纤维和/或弹性纤维合成的活性剂；防止胶原蛋白和/或糖胺聚糖和/或真皮表皮锚定原纤维和/或弹性纤维降解的活性剂；抗糖化剂；脱色素和/或黑色素生成抑制剂；及其混合物。
这样的抗衰老活性剂的实例特别是：抗坏血酸、其盐、其醚和其酯，特别是抗坏血酸葡糖苷；腺苷；核糖；蜂蜜提取物；蛋白质和糖蛋白，特别是从甜杏仁中提取的；水解植物蛋白，特别是来自稻米、木槿种子或羽扇豆的；多肽和伪二肽，例如盐酸肉毒碱，棕榈酰五肽-4(Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser)和棕榈酰三肽-38、特别是由Sederma分别以商品名
3000和
Synthe'6出售的，由Lucas Meyer以商品名称
出售的棕榈酰三肽-8，由Lipotec以商品名
Solution出售的五肽-18，由Sandream以商品名
出售的sh-十肽-9，以及由Infinitec以商品名称
Powder出售的棕榈酰六肽-52；硅烷，例如甲基硅烷醇甘露糖酸酯；阿拉伯糖基木聚糖，特别是从黑麦粉中提取的，以及半乳糖阿拉伯聚糖，特别是从落叶松中提取的；透明质酸及其盐；多酚，特别是从含羞草中提取的；α-羟酸，包括从柠檬中提取的那些；植物的提取物(通常为水性)，例如以下植物：马郁兰(Origanum majorana)，蜡菊(Helichrysum italicum)，睡菜，三色堇，问荆，千日菊(Acmella oleracea)，苏格兰刺蓟(大翅蓟(Onopordum acanthium))，蓍草(Achillea millefolium，特别是来自BASF的产品
中所含的)，酸藤子(Embelia concinna，如SEPPIC出售的)，梨果仙人掌(Opuntia ficus indica，特别是由Mibelle AG Biochemistry以商品名
出售的)，鼠尾草(Salvia officinalis，特别是由Provital Group出售的)，黄荆(Vitexnegundo)(特别是由Laboratoires Expanscience以商品名称
出售的)，甜栗子，木瓜，摩洛哥坚果树，燕麦，向日葵，雏菊，牡丹，或莳萝；藻类的水性提取物，特别是珊瑚藻、叉珊藻(Jania rubens)、裙带菜(Ungaria pinnatifada)、翅菜(Alaria esculentaor)或眼点拟微绿球藻(Nannochlorosis oculata)的提取物；精油，特别是桃金娘或蜡菊(Helichrysum italicum)的精油；葡萄糖酸锌和/或葡萄糖酸铜；及其混合物。
作为变体或另外，并入根据本发明组合物的至少一个相中的所述活性剂可选自保湿活性剂，例如透明质酸；尿素；多元醇，木糖醇，山梨糖醇，丙二醇，或由SEPPIC以商品名
出售的木糖醇基葡糖苷、木糖醇和脱水木糖醇的混合物；
水；及其混合物。
上述水相和油相可在它们各自的成分均化之后，以本领域技术人员常规的方式混合，从而获得本发明的组合物。一旦所述组合物形成并放入诸如瓶子之类的包装中，它在几秒钟后迅速地相分离。摇晃后，可见所述组合物包含单一相，一旦静置，它再次迅速地相分离。
前述组合物可以用于对皮肤(面部和/或身体)和/或头发进行护理、清洁和/或增香和/或用于从皮肤、尤其是面部、任选地包括眼廓区域卸妆。例如，它可以每天施用于皮肤上一到三次，例如在早上和/或晚上。它可以有利地包装在具有喷雾器的瓶子中。它可以是洗去型或免洗型组合物。
实施例
根据以下实施例将更清楚地理解本发明，这些实施例仅作为说明给出，其目的不是限制本发明的范围，本发明的范围由权利要求书限定。
实施例1：三相组合物
将下述成分按也在下面指出的重量比例混合，以制备本发明的各种组合物。
水相
油性中间相
油性上部相
直链C15-C19烷烃 9.0-17.50％
上述各种组合物在静止时为三相组合物的形式，界面非常清晰并且各相是半透明或透明的。
实施例2：比较测试
通过改变实施例1的成分的性质和/或比例，制备了几种类似于实施例1的组合物。目视评价所获得的组合物的外观。这些测试的结果整理在下表1中。
表1
从这些测试中、特别是从对于一方面的比较组合物A与另一方面的组合物1A和实施例1(根据本发明)获得的结果的比较中得出，可以向本发明的组合物添加植物油，条件是要遵从蓖麻油和所述植物油之间的最小重量比为65:35，否则不可能获得三相组合物。此外，所述蓖麻油和所述直链烷烃分别存在于所述油性中间相和所述油性上部相中，不能完全被同等极性和密度的油替代而不影响所述组合物的物理外观。因此，正如通过对一方面的比较组合物B和C与另一方面的实施例1的组合物(根据本发明)获得的结果的比较所证明的那样，获得三相组合物不仅与各相各自的密度和极性有关。最后，比较组合物D与本发明的实施例1的比较表明，甘油构成获得清晰界面的关键成分。
Claims (10)
1.一种三相美容组合物，其包含：(a)水性下部相，其占所述组合物重量的至少50％并含有相对于所述组合物总重量的2重量％至15重量％的甘油，(b)非有机硅油性中间相，其含有蓖麻油和任选的至少一种植物油，和(c)非有机硅油性上部相，其含有至少一种直链或支链C10-C20烷烃，应理解当所述油性中间相含有至少一种植物油时，所述蓖麻油与所述植物油的重量比为至少65:35。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物，其特征在于所述蓖麻油占相对于所述组合物总重量的5重量％至25重量％，优选10重量％至20重量％，更优选10重量％至15重量％。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的组合物，其特征在于所述甘油占相对于所述组合物总重量的4重量％至10重量％。
4.根据权利要求1至3中任一项所述的组合物，其特征在于所述直链或支链C10-C20烷烃占相对于所述组合物总重量的5重量％至25重量％、优选8重量％至20重量％、更优选8重量％至15重量％。
5.根据权利要求1至4中任一项所述的组合物，其特征在于所述直链或支链C10-C20烷烃选自癸烷、十一烷、十二烷、异十二烷、十三烷、十四烷、十五烷、十六烷、异十六烷、十七烷、十八烷、十九烷、二十烷及其混合物。
6.根据权利要求1至5中任一项所述的组合物，其特征在于所述油性中间相含有至少一种植物油，所述蓖麻油与所述植物油的重量比为至少65:35，优选至少70:30，更优选在70:30和90:10之间。
7.根据权利要求1至6中任一项所述的组合物，其特征在于所述植物油选自小麦胚芽油、向日葵油、摩洛哥坚果油、木槿油、芫荽油、葡萄籽油、芝麻油、玉米油、杏仁油、乳木果油、鳄梨油、橄榄油、大豆油、甜杏仁油、棕榈油、菜籽油、棉籽油、榛子油、澳洲坚果油、荷荷巴油、苜蓿油、红栗南瓜油、南瓜油、黑加仑油、月见草油、薰衣草油、琉璃苣油、小米油、大麦油、藜麦油、黑麦油、红花油、烛果油、西番莲油、麝香玫瑰油、蓝蓟油、亚麻荠油、山茶油及其混合物。
8.根据权利要求1至7中任一项所述的组合物，其特征在于所述水性下部相占所述组合物总重量的50％至90％、优选60％至85％、并更优选70％至80％。
9.根据权利要求1至8中任一项所述的组合物用于对皮肤和/或头发进行护理、清洁和/或增香和/或从皮肤、尤其是面部卸妆的美容用途。
10.一种用于对皮肤和/或头发进行护理、清洁和/或增香和/或从皮肤、尤其是面部卸妆的美容方法，所述方法包括在皮肤上局部施用根据权利要求1至8中任一项所述的组合物。
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| FR1913665A FR3103706B1 (fr) | 2019-12-03 | 2019-12-03 | Composition cosmétique triphasique |
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| PCT/FR2020/052200 WO2021111065A1 (fr) | 2019-12-03 | 2020-11-26 | Composition cosmétique triphasique |
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| US11633332B2 (en) | 2021-03-30 | 2023-04-25 | L'oreal | Multi-phase water-based smudge-resistant make-up remover |
| FR3125222B1 (fr) * | 2021-07-16 | 2024-05-17 | Oreal | démaquillant multiphasique à base d’eau et résistant au maculage |
| US11975094B2 (en) | 2021-06-07 | 2024-05-07 | L'oreal | Three-part makeup remover compositions |
| FR3125966A1 (fr) * | 2021-08-03 | 2023-02-10 | L'oreal | Compositions démaquillantes en trois parties |
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| FR2655265A1 (fr) * | 1989-12-01 | 1991-06-07 | Anjou Laboratoire | Fluide triphasique emulsifiable, procede de preparation, son application en pharmacie ou cosmetique et compositions le renfermant. |
| KR20090047893A (ko) * | 2007-11-08 | 2009-05-13 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 클렌징 화장료 조성물 |
| CN104619306A (zh) * | 2012-07-25 | 2015-05-13 | Elc管理有限责任公司 | 三层毛发调理组合物和消费品 |
| CN105267084A (zh) * | 2015-09-23 | 2016-01-27 | 嘉兴市蝶柔化妆品有限公司 | 一种保湿露 |
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| FR2680686B1 (fr) * | 1991-08-28 | 1993-11-05 | Oreal | Lotion tri-phases destinee a un usage corporel, pharmaceutique ou cosmetique. |
| DE10200724A1 (de) * | 2002-01-11 | 2003-07-24 | Clariant Gmbh | Dreiphasensysteme |
| EP1798213A1 (de) | 2005-12-14 | 2007-06-20 | Cognis IP Management GmbH | Verfahren zur Herstellung von Kohlenwasserstoffen |
| WO2008155061A2 (de) | 2007-06-19 | 2008-12-24 | Cognis Ip Management Gmbh | Kosmetische zubereitungen enthaltend kohlenwasserstoffe |
| FR2939662B1 (fr) * | 2008-12-17 | 2011-02-11 | Oreal | Composition biphase transparente sans silicones |
| DE102012221957A1 (de) * | 2012-11-30 | 2014-06-05 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Dreiphasige Haarkur |
| FR3068238B1 (fr) | 2017-06-30 | 2020-07-31 | Capsum | Composition triphasique |
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2019
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2655265A1 (fr) * | 1989-12-01 | 1991-06-07 | Anjou Laboratoire | Fluide triphasique emulsifiable, procede de preparation, son application en pharmacie ou cosmetique et compositions le renfermant. |
| KR20090047893A (ko) * | 2007-11-08 | 2009-05-13 | 주식회사 엘지생활건강 | 클렌징 화장료 조성물 |
| CN104619306A (zh) * | 2012-07-25 | 2015-05-13 | Elc管理有限责任公司 | 三层毛发调理组合物和消费品 |
| CN105267084A (zh) * | 2015-09-23 | 2016-01-27 | 嘉兴市蝶柔化妆品有限公司 | 一种保湿露 |
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| FR3103706B1 (fr) | 2023-05-19 |
| WO2021111065A1 (fr) | 2021-06-10 |
| EP4069182A1 (fr) | 2022-10-12 |
| FR3103706A1 (fr) | 2021-06-04 |
| KR20220109415A (ko) | 2022-08-04 |
| JP2023504278A (ja) | 2023-02-02 |
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