CN114959997B - Preparation method of woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric - Google Patents

Preparation method of woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric Download PDF

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CN114959997B
CN114959997B CN202210653133.3A CN202210653133A CN114959997B CN 114959997 B CN114959997 B CN 114959997B CN 202210653133 A CN202210653133 A CN 202210653133A CN 114959997 B CN114959997 B CN 114959997B
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sizing
fabric
yarn
fine denier
yarns
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CN114959997A (en
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张俊炎
张沛
周岚
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Danyang Danqi Textile Co Ltd
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Danyang Danqi Textile Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/04Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/263Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52Polyesters
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    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52Polyesters
    • D06P3/54Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/18Synthetic fibres consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/20Polyalkenes, polymers or copolymers of compounds with alkenyl groups bonded to aromatic groups
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    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32Polyesters
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    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
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    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/02Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
    • D10B2321/022Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins polypropylene
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    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
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    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of a woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric, and in particular relates to the technical field of fabric preparation, comprising the following steps of selecting raw materials; step two, mixing skewers according to different proportions on the split warping machine; step three, sizing and doubling the mixed yarn; step four, weaving; and fifthly, dyeing and finishing. The fabric prepared by the invention has a one-way moisture guiding function, when a user wears the garment made of the series of fabrics, sweat generated by movement of the user can be timely discharged from the inner layer of the fabric to the outer layer of the fabric, meanwhile, the moisture of the outer layer is difficult to reversely permeate into the inner layer, so that the inner layer is kept dry, meanwhile, the fabric has rich pattern textures and colors, in addition, the fabric has low-carbon environment-friendly, ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial and antistatic effects, soft and comfortable handfeel, good air permeability and moisture permeability of the fabric and good elasticity, and is an ideal fabric for making sports apparel, and has very wide market prospect.

Description

Preparation method of woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of fabric preparation, in particular to a preparation method of a woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric.
Background
The moisture permeability of the fabric is an important factor affecting the comfort of the garment, if the sweat is excessively secreted by the human body, the fabric cannot rapidly guide the sweat to the outer surface of the fabric and evaporate, so that the human body can feel uncomfortable, bacteria can be bred to generate peculiar smell, and the health of the human body is threatened. Therefore, how to conduct sweat from the inner layer to the outer layer of the fabric quickly, evaporate the sweat from the outer layer as quickly as possible, and prevent the sweat from flowing back to the inner layer is a direction of research.
The single-direction moisture-guiding functional fabric popular in the market in recent years is developed on the basis of moisture-guiding and quick-drying, and the moisture-guiding and quick-drying fabric achieves the purpose of quick-drying by increasing the evaporation area so that sweat can be quickly diffused on the fabric. The unidirectional moisture-guiding quick-drying fabric is used for quickly transferring moisture and heat from an inner layer (skin contact layer) of the fabric to an outer layer (air contact layer) of the fabric so as to evaporate and quickly dry, and the moisture and the heat do not stay in the inner layer. The fabric is not adhered to skin, is very comfortable to wear, and is the first choice of sportswear fabric. Particularly in high-strength sports, the single-conductive fabric can treat the discharge of sweat, and the sweat can be regulated from the skin to the outer layer of the fabric no matter how much sweat is produced.
The method for achieving the unidirectional moisture guiding effect in the market at present is generally adopted:
1. by utilizing the properties of the raw materials, the finer the fibers or the more complex the cross-sectional shape of the fibers, the more grooves and micropores are formed on the surface, namely the greater the degree of special shape of the fibers, the more capillaries are formed, and the stronger the moisture-conducting capacity of the fabric is. By adopting the principle of capillary differential effect of special chemical fiber raw materials, sweat is transferred from the inner side with weak moisture permeability to the outer side with relatively strong moisture permeability, and evaporated and quickly dried on the outer side.
2. Using weave structures
The special mesh three-dimensional structure can promote and accelerate the flow of moisture and heat from the inner layer to the outer layer. The bigger the mesh of the inner layer is, the smaller the mesh of the outer layer is, so that sweat is conducted from inside to outside in an accelerating way, and the sweat evaporates and dries quickly on the outer layer.
3. By post-finishing
The thermal resistance and the wet resistance of one side of the fabric are reduced through after-finishing, so that the heat and moisture transfer property of the one side is enhanced, and Yu Pai sweat is facilitated to be conducted. For example: the printing method is adopted to carry out single-sided finishing on the fabric, so that the oil-repellent water-repellent finishing agent is uniformly distributed on one side of the fabric, the penetration depth of the finishing agent on the fabric is controlled, one side of the fabric is hydrophilic, and the other side of the fabric is hydrophobic, so that a hydrophilic and hydrophobic double-sided structure is formed. Because the hydrophobic surface has a higher moisture-conducting capacity than the hydrophilic side, sweat is guided from the hydrophobic side to the hydrophilic side and can rapidly diffuse and evaporate, so that the inner layer of the fabric is kept relatively dry.
The unidirectional moisture-conducting fabric formed by the method has single function and stiff hand feeling, cannot form rich pattern textures and colors on the front surface, and has an unsatisfactory unidirectional moisture-conducting effect.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a preparation method of a woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-guiding synthetic fiber fabric which has a composite double-layer structure, is low-carbon and environment-friendly, fine and elastic in texture, ultraviolet-resistant, antibacterial and antistatic, can form rich pattern textures and colors on the surface layer, and is soft and comfortable in hand feeling.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solutions: a preparation method of a woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric comprises the following steps:
step one, raw material selection: the warp yarn adopts 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low elastic yarn, the weft yarn adopts 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low elastic yarn, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber and 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn, and the proportion of the yarns in the fabric is respectively as follows:
step two, mixing and skewing 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low elastic yarn according to different proportions on a split warping machine, wherein the surface layer of the fabric is mainly three different yarns, and different grids and rich pattern textures and colors can be formed after dyeing in combination by different proportions;
step three, sizing and doubling the mixed yarn;
step four, weaving;
and fifthly, dyeing and finishing.
Preferably, the 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber is prepared by adopting ultraviolet-resistant polyester chips through manufacturing and spinning process improvement of a spinning plate and fusing high-efficiency environment-friendly antibacterial agents in the spinning process, and the process flow specifically comprises the following steps: slicing, drying, double-screw extrusion, a melt pipeline, a spinning box body, a metering pump, circular blowing, oiling, a channel, a pre-network, a first stretching roller, a second stretching roller, a heat treatment box, winding, balancing, detecting, grading and packaging.
In the spinning component, the length-diameter ratio of the spinning hole is 5:1, a double screw extruder is adopted to obtain better melt quality, the spinning temperature is 235-250 ℃, a filter is made of metal sand, a 20um filter core is adopted, the circular blowing temperature is 18+/-2 ℃, the relative humidity is 70+/-3%, the air speed is 0.3-0.5m/s, the hot roller stretching multiplying power is 1.6-2, and the winding speed is 2300-2800m/min.
Preferably, in the second step, yarn bobbins are arranged on a split warping machine according to different proportions according to the process requirements, the tension of tensioners on a bobbin creel is respectively adjusted according to different raw materials, and then the yarns are warp-spliced according to the process requirements to form a sizing shaft, wherein the warping speed is 250-300m/min, the untwisting tension is 15-20CN, and the winding width is 178cm.
Preferably, in the third step, the process of mixing the skewer yarn sizing is improved: sizing is carried out on an XJ200 sizing machine, the unwinding tension and the winding tension of a sizing shaft of a sizing silk machine are strictly controlled, the elongation of yarns, the pressure of a submerged roller and a sizing roller and the pressure of a pressing roller and a sizing roller are regulated, and the medium-low pressure sizing of environment-friendly acrylic textile sizing agent is adopted to achieve a perfect sizing effect.
The unwinding tension is controlled at 30-35CN, the winding tension is controlled at 25-30CN, the concentration of acrylic slurry is 8-10 lattice, the middle-low pressure sizing is adopted, the pressure of a sizing roller is 0.1-0.2mpa, and the soaking pressure is 0.2-0.3mpa.
When the mixed yarn goes out of the sizing tank and enters the drying room, layering and sectional pre-drying are adopted, when the yarn goes out of the drying room and enters tin Lin Gansao, the temperature of the cylinder is medium-high temperature, and the temperature is controlled from high to low, so that the sizing liquid completely permeates into the yarn, and meanwhile, a tough and wear-resistant sizing film is formed on the surface of the yarn.
The technological parameters of layering and sectional pre-baking are as follows: first drying room temperature: 130-132 ℃, and the temperature of a second drying room: 128-130 ℃, first cylinder temperature: 110-115 ℃, second cylinder temperature: 105-110 ℃, third cylinder temperature: elongation at 100-105 ℃): +0.1-0.2%, sizing rate: 5-6%, vehicle speed: 110-120M/MIN.
The environment-friendly acrylic slurry has strong adhesive force to hydrophobic fibers, and the formed slurry film has good elasticity and softness, certain antistatic property, convenient degradation and no environmental pollution. After the warp yarn is sized and dried, 1-2% of oiling agent is added, so that the surface of the sizing yarn is smooth, the friction coefficient is reduced, and the antistatic effect is achieved.
Preferably, in the third step, the warp beam for weaving is formed by balancing the pulped beam for 24 hours, and then performing the warp beam combining according to the process requirement, and the warp beam combining adopts a shift reed-in method and the warp beam is subjected to unwinding tension: 20-25CN, vehicle speed: 40-50m/min, pressure: 0.3-0.4mpa, warp beam surface warp hardness 80-90 degrees.
Preferably, in the weaving of the fourth step, three different yarns are adopted to simultaneously carry out cross weft insertion according to the process proportion, so that a weft accumulator is added on the basis of single-pump two-jet of the water jet loom of the ZX822-210, the weaving is carried out by adopting a single-pump three-jet process, the differences of upper machine amplitude, density, strength, elongation and the like of different fibers are also considered during the weaving, the different yarns are perfectly interwoven together in the weaving through process parameter adjustment, wherein the water outlet angle of a water pump cam is 95 degrees, the opening angle of an electronic needle is 95-100 degrees, the closing angle of the electronic needle is 210-220 degrees, the opening angle of the weft accumulator is 100-105 degrees, the closing angle of the weft accumulator is 290-320 degrees, and the speed of the vehicle is controlled at 450-500rpm.
In order to form different weave structures, the water jet loom is provided with a GD50-210 multi-arm opening device, so that the production of small jacquard fabrics such as twill, satin, compound weave and the like is adapted, the patterns and textures of the fabrics are enriched, and the grade of the product is improved.
The composite double-layer structure is adopted for surface and inner interconnecting tissue weaving, the surface layer of the fabric is 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low stretch yarn, and the inner layer of the fabric is 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low stretch yarn.
Preferably, the fifth specific step is as follows:
s1, pretreatment: the semi-finished product is desized and opened, so that the semi-finished product is uniformly dyed when being dyed, and the color vividness and the fullness are better. Preparing dye liquor which is formed by mixing 1-5g/L of desizing refining agent, 5-10g/L of sodium carbonate and 2-8g/L of detergent according to a bath ratio of 1:40, pre-treating the fabric at 110-120 ℃ for 30-40min;
s2, pretreatment: washing and dehydrating: neutralizing the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali to enable the PH value of the cloth cover to reach 6-7 for 15-20 minutes;
s3, dyeing: in order to ensure that the fabric has better unidirectional moisture permeability, the non-dyeable PP polypropylene is selected, so that the surface polyester is dyed singly during dyeing, and the process is similar to that of common polyester dyeing:
the light-colored double-color effect of the surface layer is dyed by a one-bath one-step method: preparing a dye liquor which is formed by mixing 1-3% of disperse dye owf, 1-3% of disperse cationic dye owf and 1-3% of homogenizing agent owf, regulating the PH to 4.5-5, and according to the bath ratio of 1:20, dyeing temperature is 110-125 ℃, and heat preservation time is 35-45 minutes.
The dark color and double color effects in the surface layer are dyed by a one-bath two-step method: preparing dye liquor formed by mixing 3-5% of disperse dye and 3-5% of homogenizing agent, regulating pH to 4.5-5, and according to bath ratio of 1:20, the dyeing temperature is 110-125 ℃, the heat preservation time is 35-45 minutes, then the temperature is reduced to 60-70 ℃, 3-5% owf high Wen Xingyang ion dye is added, the temperature is increased to 110-125 ℃, the heat preservation time is 25-35 minutes, and then the temperature is reduced to 45-55 ℃ and then the water washing is carried out.
S4, dewatering and scutching: carrying out moisture spin-drying and open width on the dyed cloth to ensure that the sizing hand feeling is stable and uniform;
s5, shaping a finished product: the moisture absorption and sweat release auxiliary agent is 3-8% owf, the antistatic auxiliary agent is 3-8% owf, the shaping temperature is 125-135 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 20-30m/min.
In the technical scheme, the invention has the technical effects and advantages that:
the woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric produced by the invention has the inner layer made of polypropylene fiber and the surface layer made of various polyester fibers.
The method is characterized in that: the garment made of the series of fabrics has a unidirectional moisture guiding function, sweat generated by human body movement can be timely discharged from the inner layer of the fabric to the outer layer of the fabric, and meanwhile, the moisture of the outer layer is difficult to reversely permeate into the inner layer, so that the inner layer is kept dry.
And the second characteristic is that: the SORONA fiber and the cationic polyester yarn on the surface layer of the series of products have different colors, and are matched with colored low stretch yarns, so that rich pattern textures and colors can be formed.
And the third characteristic is: the multifunctional fabric has the advantages of low carbon, environmental protection, ultraviolet resistance, antibacterial effect, antistatic effect, soft and comfortable hand feeling, good air permeability and moisture permeability and good elasticity, is an ideal fabric for manufacturing sports apparel, and has very broad market prospect.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail below in order to enable those skilled in the art to better understand the technical solutions of the present invention.
Weaving: name AGB20212
Raw materials: warp yarn a warp yarn: 50D/144F fine denier ultraviolet resistant antibacterial SORONA polyester filament yarn second warp: 50D/144F fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn
Warp: 50D/48F light blue low-stretch yarn
Nail warp: b, menstruation: propylene = (10 a 3 b) ×2 c (4 a 4 b) ×13 a 5c 2 a 2 b2 a 5c (4 a 4 b) ×13 a 14 c 3 b
Weft yarn nail weft: 50D/144F fine denier ultraviolet resistant antibacterial SORONA polyester filament yarn weft B: 50D/144F fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn
Weft knitting: 50D/72F non-dyeable PP polypropylene low stretch yarn
Nail weft: weft B: propylweft= (1 a 1 c) ×3 (1 b 1 c) ×13
Upper confidentiality: 112X 102 (Unit: root/cm)
And (5) boarding gate width: 190cm
Weaving machine type: ZX822-210 three-jet multi-arm free weft selecting water jet loom
Weaving speed: 480rpm (rpm)
Weaving: double layer structure with binding on the outside and inside
The invention provides a preparation method of a woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric, which comprises the following steps:
step one, raw material selection: the 50D/144F fine denier uvioresistant antibacterial SORONA polyester filament yarn, the 50D/144F fine denier Yang Digao textured yarn, the 50D/48F light blue colored low textured yarn and the 50D/72F fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low textured yarn are selected as basic raw materials.
The yarn has the following proportion in the fabric:
the 50D/144F fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA polyester filament yarn is prepared by adopting ultraviolet-resistant polyester chips, improving the manufacturing and spinning process of a spinning plate and fusing high-efficiency environment-friendly antibacterial agents in the spinning process. The process flow comprises the following steps: slicing, drying, double-screw extrusion, a melt pipeline, a spinning box body, a metering pump, circular blowing, oiling, a channel, a pre-network, a first stretching roller, a second stretching roller, a heat treatment box, winding, balancing, detecting, grading and packaging.
In the spinning component, the length-diameter ratio of the spinning hole is 5:1, a double screw extruder is adopted to obtain better melt quality, the spinning temperature is 240 ℃, a filter adopts metal sand, a 20um filter core is adopted, the circular blowing temperature is 18 ℃, the relative humidity is 70%, the wind speed is 0.4m/s, the hot roller stretching multiplying power is 1.8, and the winding speed is 2400m/min.
Step two, carrying out mixed grafting on 50D/144F fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA polyester filaments, 50D/144F fine denier Yang Digao elastic filaments and 50D/48F light blue colored low elastic filaments on an XZ350 type sectional warping machine according to process proportions, wherein the weft yarns are formed by the steps of: weft B: the three kinds of raw materials on the bobbin creel are circularly arranged according to the proportion, the tension of a tensioner on the bobbin creel is respectively adjusted according to the different raw materials, the warp is made according to the process requirement, the warping speed is 280m/min, the untwisting tension is 15-20CN, the winding width is 178cm, the three kinds of yarns form the surface layer of the fabric during weaving, and the surface layer after dyeing is formed with pattern mechanisms and colors of three colors forming big lattice sleeves and small lattices.
Step three, sizing and doubling of the mixed yarn:
the process of the mixed skewer yarn sizing is mainly improved: sizing on an XJ200 sizing machine, strictly controlling the unwinding tension and the winding tension of a warp beam on a sizing machine, adjusting the elongation of yarns, adjusting the pressure of a submerged roller and a sizing roller, and sizing the sizing roller and the sizing roller by adopting the medium-low pressure sizing of environment-friendly acrylic textile sizing agent so as to achieve a perfect sizing effect. The unwinding tension is controlled at 30-35CN, the winding tension is controlled at 25-30CN, the concentration of acrylic slurry is matched with 9 grids, the middle-low pressure sizing is adopted, the pressure of a sizing roller is 0.25mpa, and the dipping pressure is 0.32mpa; the mixed yarn goes out of the sizing tank and enters a drying room to be pre-baked in a layered and sectional way, when the yarn goes out of the drying room and enters tin Lin Gansao, the temperature of the cylinder is medium-high temperature, and the temperature is controlled from high to low, so that the sizing liquid completely permeates into the yarn, and meanwhile, a tough and wear-resistant sizing film is formed on the surface of the yarn;
the technological parameters of the layered and sectional pre-baking are as follows: first drying room temperature: 132 ℃, second drying room temperature: 128 ℃, first cylinder temperature: 115 ℃, second cylinder temperature: 110 ℃, third cylinder temperature: elongation at 105 ℃): +0.1%, sizing rate: 5.2%, vehicle speed: 120m/min.
The environment-friendly acrylic slurry has strong adhesive force to hydrophobic fibers, and the formed serosa has good elasticity and softness. Has certain antistatic property, convenient degradation and no environmental pollution. After the warp yarn is sized and dried, 2 percent of oiling agent is added, so that the surface of the sizing yarn is smooth, the friction coefficient is reduced, and the antistatic effect is realized.
The warp beam for weaving is formed by balancing the pulped beam for 24 hours and then combining the beams according to the process requirement, and the warp beam is subjected to the unwinding tension: 20-25CN, vehicle speed: 40m/min, pressure: 0.36mpa.
Step four, weaving:
the weft yarns of the series of products are required to be interwoven simultaneously according to the process proportion, a weft accumulator is required to be added on the basis of single-pump two-jet of a water jet loom of Zhongxing ZX822-210, the weaving is performed by adopting a single-pump three-jet process, the differences of upper machine width, density, strength, elongation and the like of different fibers are also required to be considered during the weaving, the different yarns are perfectly interwoven together during the weaving through process parameter adjustment, wherein the water outlet angle of a water pump cam is 95 degrees, the opening angle of an electronic needle is 100 degrees, the closing angle of the electronic needle is 210 degrees, the opening angle of the weft accumulator is 105 degrees, the closing angle of the weft accumulator is 310 degrees, and the speed of the vehicle is controlled at 480rpm;
a GD50-210 multi-arm opening device is arranged on a water jet loom, a double-layer surface-inner interconnecting structure is adopted for weaving, the surface layer of the fabric is mainly 50D/144F fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA polyester filament yarn and 50D/144F fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn, 50D/48F light blue colored low elastic yarn, and the inner layer of the fabric is mainly 50D/72F fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low elastic yarn.
Step five, dyeing and after-finishing:
s1, pretreatment: the semi-finished product is desized and opened, so that the semi-finished product is uniformly dyed when being dyed, and the color vividness and the fullness are better. Preparing a dye liquor formed by mixing 2g/L of desizing refining agent, 6g/L of calcined soda and 3g/L of detergent according to a bath ratio of 1:40, pre-treating the fabric at 110 ℃ for 40min;
s2, washing and dehydrating: neutralizing the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali to enable the PH value of the cloth cover to reach 7 for 20 minutes;
s3, dyeing: in order to ensure that the fabric has better unidirectional moisture permeability, the non-dyeable PP polypropylene is selected, so that the surface polyester is dyed singly during dyeing, and the process is similar to that of common polyester;
because the surface layer of the product is dyed with a light color and a double color effect by adopting a one-bath one-step method: preparing a dye liquor prepared by mixing 2% of disperse dye owf, 2% of disperse cationic dye owf and 2% of a homogenizing agent owf, regulating the PH to be 5, and according to a bath ratio of 1:20, dyeing temperature is 120 ℃, and heat preservation time is 40 minutes;
s4, dewatering and scutching: carrying out moisture spin-drying and open width on the dyed cloth to ensure that the sizing hand feeling is stable and uniform;
s5, shaping a finished product: moisture absorption and sweat release auxiliary agent 5% owf, antistatic auxiliary agent 5% owf, setting temperature 125 ℃ and vehicle speed 20m/min.
Compared with the traditional polyester dyeing, the fabric mainly takes the following points:
1. the dyeing temperature is properly reduced, the damage of high temperature to the PP polypropylene fiber is reduced, at this time, in order to ensure the better color fastness of the fabric, the disperse dye with better dispersivity and smaller particles is selected, the water washing is enhanced, and the flooding is reduced.
2. In order to reduce static electricity when the fabric is worn, a cationic antistatic agent is added appropriately during shaping.
3. Shaping: because the polypropylene fiber is not resistant to high temperature, the melting point is only 165 ℃, and in order to ensure the normal hand feeling requirement of the garment fabric, the shaping condition is selected at 125-135 ℃ and the speed is 20-30m/min.
The invention firstly adopts 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic fiber, 50D colored low elastic fiber and 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low elastic fiber as basic raw materials. Proportions of different yarns in the fabric: the 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber accounts for 35-45%, the 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic filament accounts for 20-30%, the 50D colored low-elastic filament accounts for 5-10%, and the 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low-elastic filament accounts for 25-35%.
Secondly, the process of sizing the fine denier ultraviolet-resistant SORONA filament fiber of 0.5-0.1DPF, fine denier Yang Digao filament of 0.5-0.1DPF and colored low stretch yarn of 50D after mixing and skewing is carried out on a split warping machine according to different proportions is mainly improved, the environment-friendly acrylic textile sizing medium-low pressure sizing is adopted on an XJ200 sizing machine, the unwinding tension and the winding tension of a warp beam on the sizing machine and the elongation of yarns are strictly controlled, the pressures of an immersing roller and a sizing roller are regulated, the pressure of the sizing roller and the sizing roller are regulated, when the yarns go out of a drying room and enter tin Lin Gansao, the temperature of a cylinder is at medium-high temperature, the sizing medium is controlled from high to low, so that the sizing medium-high fully permeates into the yarns, and meanwhile, a tough and wear-resistant sizing film is formed on the surfaces of the yarns.
During weaving, a weft accumulator is added on the basis of single-pump two-jet of the existing Zhongxing ZX822-210 water jet loom, and a single-pump three-jet process is adopted for weaving, so that the requirements of weft 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low-stretch yarn, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier anti-ultraviolet antibacterial SORONA filament fiber and 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao stretch yarn are met, and simultaneously cross weft insertion is carried out on a cloth cover according to the process proportion. Meanwhile, a GD50-210 multi-arm opening device is arranged on the water jet loom to meet the requirements of different fabric tissues, double-layer surface-inner-surface interconnection tissues are adopted for weaving, and meanwhile, the differences of upper machine frame width, density, different fibers in strength, elongation and the like are considered, and different yarns are perfectly interwoven together in weaving through process parameter adjustment.
The surface layer of the fabric is three different yarns of 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low elastic yarn, and the SOORA fine denier filament yarn and the fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn can form different grids and rich pattern textures and colors with the color yarn after being dyed.
The realization of the unidirectional moisture guiding performance is mainly that the inner layer of the fabric adopts polypropylene, which is also called as breathing fiber, and the polypropylene hardly absorbs moisture, but has strong wicking ability and obvious moisture absorption and perspiration effect, so that moisture or sweat enters the polyester surface from the polypropylene surface, but does not enter the polypropylene surface from the polyester surface, and the unidirectional moisture guiding effect can be achieved. Sweat can be quickly conducted to the outside of the body by utilizing the water repellent effect of the polypropylene fiber, and the body surface is kept dry and comfortable. By combining the quick-drying characteristic of polyester, sweat conducted by skin volatilizes as soon as possible, and the attractive appearance of clothing is maintained.
The realization of ultraviolet resistance and antibiosis is mainly that 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet resistance and antibiosis SORONA filament fiber with a certain proportion is adopted in fabric, the fiber ultraviolet resistance is realized by utilizing ultraviolet resistance polyester chips, inorganic nanometer ultraviolet shielding factors are generated when polyester is polymerized, so that the effect of preventing ultraviolet from protecting skin is achieved, and the high-efficiency environment-friendly antibiosis agent is added in the spinning process of polyester fiber, so that microorganism metabolism is destroyed, and the growth and reproduction of bacteria are inhibited. In addition, the polypropylene fiber does not absorb sweat and no nutrient can be provided, so bacteria and microorganisms cannot survive on the polypropylene fiber fabric, the fiber cannot be destroyed, and the polypropylene fiber double-layer structure also has natural antibacterial property.
The antistatic property of the fabric is mainly that cationic antistatic agents are properly added during after-finishing and shaping, so that the static electricity of the fabric during wearing is reduced.
The SONORA fiber is a polymer synthesized by 1,3 Propanediol (PDO) extracted from corn and refined terephthalic acid, is novel synthetic fiber in the 21 st century, and is 37% renewable, so that a new concept of environmental protection is injected into the fabric.
The fine denier fiber has small diameter, small bending rigidity, soft and fine fabric style, and fine pores among the fine denier fiber, and has increased capillary effect, excellent water vapor dredging performance and excellent air permeability and moisture permeability.
The woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric produced by the invention is a new product manufactured on a water-jet loom, is low-carbon and environment-friendly, has ultraviolet resistance, antibacterial property and antistatic property, has good unidirectional moisture-conducting effect, and can form rich pattern textures and colors on the surface layer. The product has soft and comfortable hand feeling and good elasticity, is an ideal fabric for manufacturing sports clothes, and brings a brand new bright point for fashion individual clothes.
While certain exemplary embodiments of the present invention have been described above by way of illustration only, it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that modifications may be made to the described embodiments in various different ways without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, the foregoing description is illustrative in nature and is not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention as claimed.

Claims (5)

1. A preparation method of a woven multifunctional unidirectional moisture-conducting synthetic fiber fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
step one, raw material selection: the warp yarn adopts 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low elastic yarn, the weft yarn adopts 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low elastic yarn, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber and 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn, and the proportion of the yarns in the fabric is respectively as follows:
0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber 35-45%;
0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn 20-30%;
5-10% of 50D colored low stretch yarn;
25-35% of 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low stretch yarn;
step two, mixing and skewing 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low elastic yarn according to different proportions on a split warping machine;
step three, sizing and doubling of the mixed yarn:
the process of the mixed skewer yarn sizing comprises the following steps: sizing on a sizing machine, strictly controlling the desizing tension of a sizing shaft of a sizing machine, coiling tension, the elongation of yarns, adjusting the pressure of a submerged roller and a sizing roller, sizing the sizing roller and the sizing roller by adopting environment-friendly acrylic textile sizing medium-low pressure, feeding mixed skewer yarns out of a sizing tank into a drying room, adopting layering and sectional pre-drying, and when the yarns out of the drying room enter tin Lin Gansao, adopting medium-high temperature and controlling the temperature from high to low, so that the sizing liquid completely permeates into the yarns, forming a tough and wear-resistant sizing film on the surfaces of the yarns, sizing and drying the yarns, and then feeding 1-2% of oiling agent;
the beam combining is to balance the pulped beam for 24 hours, then to combine the beam according to the technological requirement to form a warp beam for weaving, and the beam combining adopts a shift reed sleeving method;
step four, weaving: the weft yarns adopt three different yarns to simultaneously perform cross weft insertion according to the process proportion requirement, so that a weft accumulator is added on the basis of single-pump two-jet of the water jet loom, a single-pump three-jet process is adopted for weaving, and the different yarns are interwoven together in the weaving process through process parameter adjustment;
the composite double-layer structure is adopted for weaving by surface-inner interconnecting tissues, the surface layer of the fabric is 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier ultraviolet-resistant antibacterial SORONA filament fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier Yang Digao elastic yarn and 50D colored low-stretch yarn, and the inner layer of the fabric is 50D fine denier non-dyeable PP polypropylene low-stretch yarn;
step five, dyeing and finishing, wherein the specific steps are as follows:
s1, pretreatment: desizing and opening the semi-finished product to prepare a dye liquor which is formed by mixing 1-5g/L of desizing refining agent, 5-10g/L of sodium carbonate and 2-8g/L of detergent according to a bath ratio of 1:40, pre-treating the fabric at 110-120 ℃ for 30-40min;
s2, pretreatment: washing and dehydrating: neutralizing the grey cloth with acid and alkali to reach pH value of 6-7 for 15-20 min;
s3, dyeing:
the light-colored double-color effect of the surface layer is dyed by a one-bath one-step method: preparing a dye solution formed by mixing 1-3% of disperse dye, 1-3% of disperse cationic dye and 1-3% of homogenizing agent, regulating the PH to 4.5-5, and according to the bath ratio of 1:20, dyeing temperature is 110-125 ℃, and heat preservation time is 35-45 minutes;
the dark color and double color effects in the surface layer are dyed by a one-bath two-step method: preparing a dye solution formed by mixing 3-5% of disperse dye owf and 3-5% of a homogenizing agent, regulating the PH to 4.5-5, and according to a bath ratio of 1:20, the dyeing temperature is 110-125 ℃, the heat preservation time is 35-45 minutes, then the temperature is reduced to 60-70 ℃, 3-5% owf high Wen Xingyang ion dye is added, the temperature is increased to 110-125 ℃, the heat preservation time is 25-35 minutes, and then the temperature is reduced to 45-55 ℃ and then the water washing is carried out;
s4, dewatering and scutching: carrying out moisture spin-drying and open width on the dyed cloth;
s5, shaping a finished product: the moisture absorption and sweat release auxiliary agent is 3-8% owf, the antistatic auxiliary agent is 3-8% owf, the shaping temperature is 125-135 ℃ and the vehicle speed is 20-30m/min.
2. The method for preparing the woven multifunctional unidirectional wet-guiding synthetic fiber fabric, which is characterized in that: in the second step, three kinds of different yarns are mixed and inserted on a slice warping machine according to different proportions and according to different process requirements, yarn bobbins are arranged on the slice warping machine according to different proportions, the tension of tensioners on a bobbin creel is respectively adjusted according to different raw materials, and then the yarns are inserted according to the process requirements to form a sizing shaft, wherein the warping speed is 250-300m/min, the untwisting tension is 15-20CN, and the winding width is 178cm.
3. The method for preparing the woven multifunctional unidirectional wet-guiding synthetic fiber fabric, which is characterized in that: in the step three, the yarn sizing process is carried out by mixing and skewing: the unwinding tension is controlled at 30-35CN, the winding tension is controlled at 25-30CN, the concentration of acrylic acid sizing agent slurry is matched with 8-10 grids, medium-low pressure sizing is adopted, the pressure of a sizing roller is 0.1-0.2mpa, and the dipping pressure is 0.2-0.3mpa;
the technological parameters of layering and sectional pre-baking are as follows: first drying room temperature: 130-132 ℃, and the temperature of a second drying room: 128-130 ℃, first cylinder temperature: 110-115 ℃, second cylinder temperature: 105-110 ℃, third cylinder temperature: elongation at 100-105 ℃): +0.1-0.2%, sizing rate: 5-6%, vehicle speed: 110-120M/MIN.
4. The method for preparing the woven multifunctional unidirectional wet-guiding synthetic fiber fabric, which is characterized in that: in step three, the parallel shaft unwinds the tension: 20-25CN, vehicle speed: 40-50m/min, pressure: 0.3-0.4mpa, warp beam surface warp hardness 80-90 degrees.
5. The method for preparing the woven multifunctional unidirectional wet-guiding synthetic fiber fabric, which is characterized in that: in the weaving of the fourth step, the water outlet angle of the water pump cam is 95 degrees, the opening angle of the electronic needle is 95-100 degrees, the closing angle of the electronic needle is 210-220 degrees, the opening angle of the weft accumulator is 100-105 degrees, the closing angle of the weft accumulator is 290-320 degrees, and the speed of the vehicle is controlled at 450-500rpm.
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