CN103774327B - Preparation method of high-density fine-denier double-surface double-layer PFY (Polyester Filament Yarn) fabric - Google Patents

Preparation method of high-density fine-denier double-surface double-layer PFY (Polyester Filament Yarn) fabric Download PDF

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CN103774327B
CN103774327B CN201410038303.2A CN201410038303A CN103774327B CN 103774327 B CN103774327 B CN 103774327B CN 201410038303 A CN201410038303 A CN 201410038303A CN 103774327 B CN103774327 B CN 103774327B
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weaving
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CN103774327A (en
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张俊炎
张沛
林惠荣
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Danyang Danqi Textile Co Ltd
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Danyang Danqi Yuyue Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of high-density fine-denier double-surface double-layer PFY (Polyester Filament Yarn) fabric. The preparation method comprises the following steps of (1) raw material selecting; (2) space-variant compositing and sizing; (3) weaving; (4) dyeing and after-finishing. The high-density fine-denier double-surface double-layer PFY fabric which is generated by the preparation method has the characteristics that the fabric density is up to 120/cm, the fineness is only 50 denier, the finest fiber is only 0.02 DPF, the fabric is woven by adopting a double-layer exterior and interior interconnection organization, the thinnest thickness can be lower than 100 g/m<2>, the fabric is fine and smooth in weaving, abundant pattern textures, color matching and check and pattern combination can be formed, the feeling is soft and comfortable, the recoverability is strong, the air permeability, the water vapor permeability and the anti-static performance of the fabric are good, and the fabric is ideal fabric for manufacturing sports wear, jackets and suits. The comprehensive running rate of a weaving machine is up to 95%, the cloth surface is smooth, and the product yield is ensured.

Description

The preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric.
Background technology
In recent years, no matter international and domestic, men's clothing or the fashion trend in women's dress market, sportswear popular increasingly extensive, diversified.The differentiation of leisure and motion class clothes, except original required performance and function, designer and consumer more favor light succinct, be easy to carry about with one and nurse, easy to make, and superior performance, specious clothes and fabric, the trendy upper dresses of leisure such as wind coat, jacket, just west mostly use without liner, without lining and design and produce, so double-layer and double-side fabric quietly becomes a popular focus of garment material.
Existing reversible cloth in the market, conventional method roughly has three kinds; 1, use face coat, scrape the afterfinish method such as look, stamp and form simple positive and negative different colours and texture; 2, double-layer and double-side effect is formed with two kinds of different fabric laminatings; 3, positive and negative fabric tissue is used to form different surfaces.The fabric of these types has its advantage and obtains more application, but some defects wherein also limit improving further and improving of this type of fabric.As: first kind fabric can only take the effect of one side into account, the problems such as the layer cloth that Equations of The Second Kind laminating is formed is easy to be peeling, bubble and feel is stiff, 3rd class is to the color of positive and negative and weavy grain is restricted, cannot form abundant decorative pattern skin texture and color, and this few class fabric all seems do not have class, middle and high end brand is not suitable for using substantially.
Overcoming these problems, simultaneously in order to improve fabric class, increasing product texture, in cotton, woollen goods, cowboy's class fabric, adopt duplex weave weaving reversible cloth, but these fabrics generally thicker silk floss, abundant, make clothes and be difficult to reach frivolous, exquisite requirement.
Summary of the invention
One is the object of the present invention is to provide to knit ground fine and smooth, abundant decorative pattern skin texture and color can be formed, soft comfortable and have outstanding recovery, fabric air-permeability, good and the preparation method of anlistatig high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric of water vapour permeability. first select Dupont 0.02-0.05DPF porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber and 15D high-effective conductive fiber to carry out space-variant compound, mix with 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn again and interweave, before weaving, emphasis improves slurry silk technique, when weaving, water jet looms adopts double-beam first simultaneously, two keel palm fibre frame weaving process, and adopt mutual connection in double-deck table to organize weaving, dyeing Final finishing adopts the process of one side coating.
Technical scheme of the present invention is achieved in the following ways: the preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric, comprises the following steps: 1) raw material are selected; 2) space-variant compound and starching; 3) weave; 4) dyeing, Final finishing, is characterized in that:
1), raw material are selected: select raw material based on Dupont 0.02-0.05DPF porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, 15D high-effective conductive fiber and 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn; 2), space-variant compound and starching: Dupont 0.02-0.05DPF porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber and 15D high-effective conductive fiber two kinds of raw materials are carried out low-tension space-variant compound on space-variant machine, after compound, monofilament tension force controls at 4.5-6.0CN, two threads pass through air nozzle after drawing-off hot-stretch, be intertwined by flow rotation, form the ATY silk that fiber number is 65-66D; Drying cylinder formula slurry car adopts low-tension, mesolow starching, control the sending of slurry silk machine, batch monofilament tension force, adopt mesolow starching, after pulp, ATY silk enters drying room and adopts layering, segmentation preliminary drying, yarn go out drying room enter cylinder dry time, cylinder temperature controls from high to low, makes slurries penetrate into yarn interior completely, is formed with toughness, wear-resisting serous coat in yam surface simultaneously; After the starching of ATY silk is dried, then the finish of upper 1% or antistatic agent, so both can make the smooth surface of slurry silk, reduction coefficient of friction, can play again the effect of antistatic;
The drawing-off hot-stretch temperature of described space-variant compound tense controls at 110-125 DEG C, and draw ratio controls at 1.0-1.1, and confluent controls at 0.6-0.8L/h.
Sending monofilament tension force during described starching controls at 6-7CN, batches monofilament tension force and controls at 7-8CN.
Described mesolow starching, adopt acrylic size during starching, mass percentage concentration is 10-11%, and compregnate is 1.8-2.0kgf/cm2, mud jacking is 0.8-1.0kgf/cm2.
Described layering, segmentation preliminary drying technological parameter are: the first drying room temperature: 136-138 DEG C, the second drying room temperature: 130-132 DEG C, the first cylinder temperature: 98-100 DEG C, second and third cylinder temperature: 93-95 DEG C, fourth, fifth cylinder temperature: 90-92 DEG C, to extend :+0.1-0.2%, the rate of sizing: 4.8-5.2%, the speed of a motor vehicle: 110-120m/min.
3), weave: adopt double-beam, two keel palm fibre frame to weave
A, double-beam device is adopted to weave: main warp axle ATY silk being located at loom initiatively to send and gets, little warp beam is installed additional below back-bearer, 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn batches in little warp beam, when weaving, passive sending is got, simultaneously for reducing the friction of organizine at weaving process, prevent cracked ends, fluffing situation, the brown frame of water jet looms adopts two keel, and monofilament adopts ultra-thin high-strength nylon monofilament;
B, this kind are different from conventional products, different fiber difference in intensity, elongation etc. need be considered when weaving, the how perfect weave in when weaving, by adjustment Warp line, opening time, water yield sized devices technique, and suitably increase back brown elasticity, ensure back that palm fibre rapidly, adopt 30(D2.3) nozzle, customization thickeies microgroove and batches rod rough surfaced rubber covering, ensures that fell is stablized, makes weaving speed control at 450-500rpm;
In C, the double-deck table of employing, mutual connection organizes weaving;
4), dyeing, Final finishing:
A, pre-treatment: prepare the dye liquor I mixed by soda ash 1-5g/L, Span-Rt detergent 2-10g/L, JFC bleeding agent 0.1-2g/L, according to bath raio 1:40, pre-treatment is carried out to composite material, treatment temperature 90-110 DEG C, processing time 30min;
B, hot water wash;
C, cold wash;
D, dyeing: prepare the dye liquor II mixed by warm type DISPERSE DYES 0.5-5% (o.w.f), SD disperse type cationic dye 0.5-5% (o.w.f), ZJ-RH12 homogenizing agent 0.5-5% (o.w.f) in SE, adjustment PH is 4.5-5, according to bath raio 1:20, at 50-60 DEG C, composite material is entered dye, with the intensification of 1 DEG C/min, be warming up to 90-110 DEG C, insulation 10min, be warming up to 120-130 DEG C again, then be incubated 60min;
E, washing;
F, reduction cleaning: prepare the dye liquor III mixed by soda ash 1-5g/L, sodium dithionite sodium hydrosulfite 1-5g/L, aliphatic amine polyoxyethylene ether 1-5g/L, according to bath raio 1:30, reduction cleaning is carried out to composite material, cleaning temperature 80-90 DEG C, scavenging period 10min;
G, oven dry: setting temperature 160-170 DEG C;
H, the process of one side coating: coating temperature 150-160 DEG C, speed 50-60m/mim.
The present invention, the high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester fabric produced, Density is up to 120 pieces/centimetre, fiber number only has 50 DENIER, fiber the most carefully only has 0.02DPF, mutual connection in double-deck table is adopted to organize weaving, thickness is the thinnest can lower than 100 grams/m, it is fine and smooth that ground knitted by fabric, abundant decorative pattern skin texture, collocation of colour and check combination can be formed, soft comfortable, recovery is strong, and fabric air-permeability, water vapour permeability and antistatic property are good, is the desirable fabric making sportswear, jacket, just west.The comprehensive running rate of loom reaches more than 95%, and cloth cover is smooth ensure that product yield.
Detailed description of the invention
Weave: name of an article SNBY93244
Raw material: first warp: 66DATY silk/(50D/144F porous fine denier SORONA fiber and 15D high-effective conductive fiber)
Second warp: 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn
The same organizine of tram
Density: 120X110(unit: root/centimetre)
Upper gate width: 165cm
Grammes per square metre: 110GSM
Weave type: LW551 produces the two spray machine of multi-arm free weft selecting daily
Weaving speed: 480rpm
Weave: tied double weave in table
Production craft step of the present invention is as follows:
1, raw material are selected: Dupont 50D/144F porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, and this fiber is corn-based polymer fiber, and the feature of this fiber tool low modulus, high recovery, therefore has extremely strong deformability and wrinkling resistance; 15D high-effective conductive fiber; 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low stretch filament is raw material.
2, space-variant compound and starching: Dupont 50D/144F porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber and 15D high-effective conductive fiber two kinds of raw materials are carried out low-tension space-variant compound on daily output B-501ATY space-variant machine, after compound, monofilament tension force controls at 4.5-6.0CN, two threads pass through air nozzle after drawing-off, described drawing-off hot-stretch temperature controls at 110-125 DEG C, draw ratio controls at 1.0-1.1, and confluent controls at 0.6-0.8L/h.Be intertwined by flow rotation, form ATY silk, fiber number is at 65-67D; Drying cylinder formula slurry car adopts low-tension, the starching of mesolow technique, and control the sending of slurry silk machine, coiling tension, described monofilament tension force of sending controls at 6-7CN, batches monofilament tension force and controls at 7-8CN.Adopt mesolow starching, adopt acrylic size during starching, mass percentage concentration is 10-11%, and mud jacking is 1.0-1.2kgf/cm2, compregnate is 1.8-2.0kgf/cm2.After slurry outlet groove, ATY silk enters drying room and adopts layering, segmentation preliminary drying: the first drying room temperature: 136-138 DEG C, the second drying room temperature: 130-132 DEG C, the first cylinder temperature: 98-100 DEG C, second and third cylinder temperature: 93-95 DEG C, fourth, fifth cylinder temperature: 90-92 DEG C, to extend :+0.1-0.2%, the rate of sizing: 4.8-5.2%, the speed of a motor vehicle: 110-120m/min.Yarn go out drying room enter cylinder dry time, temperature during cylinder temperature adopts, and control temperature from high to low, make slurries penetrate into yarn interior completely, be formed with toughness, wear-resisting serous coat simultaneously in yam surface; After the starching of ATY silk is dried, then the finish of upper 1% or antistatic agent, so both can make the smooth surface of slurry silk, reduction coefficient of friction, can play again the effect of antistatic.
Problem is should be noted in space-variant process:
A) because two threads are ultra-fine feed stock, air-texturing process Zhong Ge district tension force is very large on finished silk impact, deformed area tension force is lower, be conducive to shredding and lopping, stable region tension force is lower, is conducive to fiber internal stress loose, improves deformation effect, for the benefit of be shaped and reduce filoplume generation, in this example, tension force controls at 4.5-6CN.
B) tow over feed rate(OFR) size affects the bulking intensity of tow, and over feed rate(OFR) is too low, and be unfavorable for the generation of wire ring, over feed rate(OFR) is too high, and looped pile is excessive, and bar is in loose, and fibre strength declines, and line density increases, and in this example, over feed rate(OFR) controls 9%.
C) in this example, hot-stretch temperature controls at 120 DEG C, and draw ratio controls 1.1, and confluent controls at 0.6L/h.
3, weave: when weaving, adopt double-beam, brown frame to adopt two keel to weave.
1) water jet looms adopts double-beam, two keel palm fibre frame weaving process: batched by ATY silk initiatively to send on the main warp axle of loom and get, little warp beam is installed additional below back-bearer, 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn batches on little axle, and when weaving, passive sending is got, and weaves and adopts daily output two spray free weft selecting, electronics halter loom, rotating speed 480rpm, nozzle adopts 30(D2.3) specification, 83 DEG C, injection beginning angle, flight starts 115 DEG C, angle, 270 DEG C, flight termination angle, P value 28mm.Water jet looms adopts first simultaneously double-beam, brown frame adopt two keel, monofilament adopts ultra-thin high-strength nylon monofilament to weave.Reduce organizine density and friction when weaving, looms vibration load also reduces greatly, decreases fabric situation such as cracked ends, fluffing in weaving process, improves the quality of product.
2) in fabric structure design, binding place with fabric tissue, texture and Yarn color are ingenious agrees with, tied double weave in showing is adopted.
3) the comprehensive running rate of loom reaches more than 95%, and cloth cover is smooth ensure that product yield.
4, dyeing, Final finishing:
(1) pre-treatment: prepare the dye liquor I mixed by soda ash 2g/L, Span-Rt detergent 5g/L, JFC bleeding agent 0.2g/L, according to bath raio 1:40, pre-treatment is carried out to composite material, treatment temperature 100 DEG C, processing time 30min;
(2) hot water wash;
(3) cold wash;
(4) dye: prepare by Disperse Blue 2BLN dyestuff 1% (o.w.f), cationic yellow x-8gl dyestuff 1%(o.w.f), ZJ-RH12 homogenizing agent 1%(o.w.f) dye liquor II that mixes, PH is regulated to be 4.5, according to bath raio 1:20, at 50 DEG C, composite material is entered dye, with the intensification of 1 DEG C/min, be warming up to 100 DEG C, insulation 10min, be warming up to 120 DEG C again, insulation 60min;
(5) wash;
(6) reduction cleaning: prepare by soda ash 1g/L, sodium dithionite sodium hydrosulfite 2g/L, the dye liquor III that aliphatic amine polyoxyethylene ether 1g/L mixes, according to bath raio 1:30, carries out reduction cleaning to composite material, cleaning temperature 90 DEG C, scavenging period 10min.
(7) dry: setting temperature 170 DEG C.
(8) one side coating process: coating temperature 150 DEG C, speed 50m/mim.
SORONA fiber and CATION composite material are processed by one-bath dyeing the colour combination can developing grid clearly demarcated and are knitted effect, also double-colored or that polychrome is dim multi-level tone can be reached, polyster fibre is wherein by disperse dyeing, and Cationic Dyeable Pet fiber passes through cationic dyeing.One side coating is for regulating feel further.
In dyeing course, due to this fabric fibrous raw material used and common face liber widely different on structural form, difficulty of processing is larger, whole dyeing and finishing process must adopt soft water to process, for effectively controlling aberration, in fabric pretreatment and dyeing course, the technological parameter such as its chemicals usage, temperature, bath raio, cloth speed must strict control, and dyeing temperature must below 130 DEG C.
First realization means of the present invention is select 0.02-0.05DPF Dupont SORONA corn bio-based porous fine denier filament fiber and 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn as base stock, fine count fiber due to diameter very little, its bending stiffness is very little, Fabric Style is soft, fine and smooth, and meanwhile, fine count fiber has many fine holes between microfiber, micro-air chamber is formed between fiber, capillary effect increases, and dredge steam functional, fabric has good gas permeability, poisture-penetrability.
Dupont SORONA corn bio-based fiber has the feature that low modulus height is replied, and adding of this material imparts the extremely strong deformability of fabric and crease-resistant function.
Grey cloth warp-wise when weaving adds the fiber of high conductivity, can effectively in time cloth surface charge outwardly be carried, and prevents electric charge from tying poly-, to reach anlistatig object.Conductive fiber adopts the composite conducting fiber BELLTRON9R series spinning up-to-date development in Japan, and this fiber has excellent antistatic control ability, good wash resistant, counter-bending, abrasion resistance properties.
For improving loom running rate, ensure product quality, when weaving, water jet looms adopts two keel double-beam weaving process simultaneously, in fabric structure design, adopt mutual connection in double-deck table to organize weaving, binding place and the ingenious of fabric tissue, texture and Yarn color agree with, it is fine and smooth that ground knitted by the fabric produced, abundant decorative pattern skin texture and color can be formed, thickness is the thinnest can lower than 100 grams/m, in the field of businessly belong to pioneering, and form product line, as dual-sided two color, two-sided pair of lattice, two-sided double cut etc.
A. this kind is because raw material fiber number is thin, density is high, and upper machine reaches 120 pieces/centimetre, and single warp beam that water jet looms is traditional interweaves, and the defect such as cracked ends, reed road easily appears in warp-wise, and staplings, the folded defect such as latitude, class easily appear in broadwise, have a strong impact on board running rate.By trial production repeatedly, we have reequiped little warp beam below back-bearer, warp-wise 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn is separated from main warp axle to be batched on little axle, (it is main warp axle that 0.2-0.5DPF porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber and 15D high-effective conductive fiber carry out the ATY silk that low-tension space-variant is compounded to form on space-variant machine to adopt double-beam device to weave, initiatively send when weaving and get, 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn is that passive the sending of little warp beam is got), simultaneously for reducing the friction of organizine at weaving process, prevent cracked ends, the situations such as fluffing, the brown frame of water jet looms adopts two keel after transformation, monofilament adopts ultra-thin high-strength nylon monofilament.
B. this kind is different from conventional products, different fiber difference in intensity, elongation etc. need be considered when weaving, the how problem such as perfect weave in when weaving, need by apparatus and process such as adjustment Warp line, opening time, water yield sizes in practical operation, and suitably increase back brown elasticity, ensure back palm fibre rapidly, adopt 30(D2.3) nozzle, customization thickeies microgroove and batches rod rough surfaced rubber covering, ensures that fell is stablized.Weaving speed controls at 450-500rpm, makes the comprehensive running rate of loom reach more than 95% by above measure, and cloth cover is smooth ensure that product yield.
C. in fabric structure design, need binding place and fabric tissue, texture and Yarn color are ingenious agrees with, adopt mutual connection in double-deck showing to organize weaving.

Claims (5)

1. the preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric, comprises the following steps: 1) raw material are selected; 2) space-variant compound and starching; 3) weave; 4) dyeing, Final finishing, is characterized in that:
1), raw material are selected: select raw material based on Dupont 0.02-0.05DPF porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, 15D high-effective conductive fiber and 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn;
2), space-variant compound and starching: Dupont 0.02-0.05DPF porous fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber and 15D high-effective conductive fiber two kinds of raw materials are carried out low-tension space-variant compound on space-variant machine, after compound, monofilament tension force controls at 4.5-6.0CN, two threads pass through air nozzle after drawing-off hot-stretch, be intertwined by flow rotation, form the ATY silk that fiber number is 65-66D; Drying cylinder formula slurry car adopts low-tension, mesolow starching, control the sending of slurry silk machine, batch monofilament tension force, adopt mesolow starching, after pulp, ATY silk enters drying room and adopts layering, segmentation preliminary drying, yarn go out drying room enter cylinder dry time, cylinder temperature controls from high to low, makes slurries penetrate into yarn interior completely, is formed with toughness, wear-resisting serous coat in yam surface simultaneously; After the starching of ATY silk is dried, then the finish of upper 1% or antistatic agent;
3), weave: employing double-beam, two keel are weaved;
A, double-beam device is adopted to weave: main shaft ATY silk being located at loom initiatively to send and gets, little warp beam is installed additional below back-bearer, 50D/144F porous fine denier CATION low-stretch yarn batches in little warp beam, when weaving, passive sending is got, simultaneously for reducing the friction of organizine at weaving process, prevent cracked ends, fluffing, the brown frame of water jet looms adopts two keel, and monofilament adopts ultra-thin high-strength nylon monofilament;
B, according to the difference of different fiber in intensity, elongation, by adjustment Warp line, opening time, water yield size, adopt 30(D2.3) nozzle, customization thickeies microgroove and batches rod rough surfaced rubber covering, make weaving speed control at 450-500rpm, ensure that fell is stablized, return palm fibre rapidly;
In C, the double-deck table of employing, mutual connection is weaved and is become composite material;
4), dyeing, Final finishing:
A, pre-treatment: prepare dye liquor I, mixed by soda ash 1-5g/L, Span-Rt detergent 2-10g/L, JFC bleeding agent 0.1-2g/L, according to bath raio 1:40, carry out pre-treatment, treatment temperature 90-110 DEG C to composite material, processing time 30min;
B, hot water wash;
C, cold wash;
D, dyeing: prepare dye liquor II, mixed by warm type DISPERSE DYES 0.5-5% (o.w.f), SD disperse type cationic dye 0.5-5% (o.w.f), ZJ-RH12 homogenizing agent 0.5-5% (o.w.f) in SE, adjustment PH is 4.5-5, according to bath raio 1:20, at 50-60 DEG C, composite material is entered dye, with the intensification of 1 DEG C/min, be warming up to 90-110 DEG C, insulation 10min, then be warming up to 120-130 DEG C, then be incubated 60min;
E, washing;
F, reduction cleaning: prepare dye liquor III, mixed by soda ash 1-5g/L, sodium dithionite 1-5g/L, aliphatic amine polyoxyethylene ether 1-5g/L, according to bath raio 1:30, carries out reduction cleaning to composite material, cleaning temperature 80-90 DEG C, scavenging period 10min;
G, oven dry: setting temperature 160-170 DEG C;
H, the process of one side coating: coating temperature 150-160 DEG C, speed 50-60m/mim.
2. the preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described step 2) in the drawing-off hot-stretch temperature of space-variant compound tense control at 110-125 DEG C, draw ratio controls at 1.0-1.1, and confluent controls at 0.6-0.8L/h.
3. the preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described step 2) in starching time send monofilament tension force and control at 6-7CN, batch monofilament tension force and control at 7-8CN.
4. the preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described step 2) in mesolow starching, adopt acrylic size during starching, its mass percentage concentration is 10-11%, and mud jacking is 1.0-1.2kgf/cm 2, compregnate is 1.8-2.0kgf/cm 2.
5. the preparation method of high and fine filament two-sided double-deck polyester filament fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described step 2) in layering, segmentation preliminary drying technological parameter be: ATY silk enters drying room and adopts layering, segmentation preliminary drying: the first drying room temperature: 136-138 DEG C, the second drying room temperature: 130-132 DEG C, the first cylinder temperature: 98-100 DEG C, second and third cylinder temperature: 93-95 DEG C, fourth, fifth cylinder temperature: 90-92 DEG C, to extend :+(0.1-0.2) %, the rate of sizing: 4.8-5.2%, the speed of a motor vehicle: 110-120m/min.
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