CN114867461A - 油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品 - Google Patents
油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114867461A CN114867461A CN202080089492.XA CN202080089492A CN114867461A CN 114867461 A CN114867461 A CN 114867461A CN 202080089492 A CN202080089492 A CN 202080089492A CN 114867461 A CN114867461 A CN 114867461A
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- water
- cosmetic
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- skin cosmetic
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于，提供通过与水、汗等水分接触，与刚涂布之后相比紫外线防御效果改善，并且使用感优异的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。本发明涉及的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品的特征在于，其含有：(A)(a‑1)共聚物和/或(a‑2)甲硅烷基化肽、和(B)紫外线防御剂，所述(a‑1)共聚物具有：硅烷醇基；和，氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。更具体而言，涉及配合有紫外线防御剂的、通过与水、汗等水分接触而与刚涂布之后相比紫外线防御效果改善、并且使用感也优异的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。
背景技术
保护皮肤而不受到紫外线伤害为护肤、身体护理中的重要的课题之一，为了将紫外线对皮肤造成的不良影响抑制于最小限度，开发了各种UV护理化妆品。作为UV护理化妆品的1种的防晒化妆品(sunscreen cosmetics)，为目的在于通过利用配合有紫外线吸收剂、紫外线散射剂的涂膜覆盖皮肤，吸收或散射太阳光线中的UVA及UVB而抑制到达皮肤的紫外线量，保护皮肤而不受到紫外线的不良影响的化妆品(非专利文献1)。
涂布于皮肤的防晒化妆品由于暴露于由皮肤分泌的汗、海水等各种水分，因此紫外线吸收剂、紫外线散射剂由涂布于皮肤的化妆品涂膜流出，不能避免紫外线防御效果降低。因此，从耐水性优异的观点考虑，优选使用油包水型乳化化妆品。
例如专利文献1中记载了，通过在含有紫外线防御剂的防晒化妆品中配合油相增稠剂等，从而具有下述的以往没有的独特性质：化妆品的涂布膜与水、汗等水分接触后，与刚涂布该化妆品之后(与水分接触之前)相比，紫外线防御效果改善。但是，若作为油包水型的乳化化妆品制造专利文献1的化妆品则由于油相增稠剂的配合而外相的粘性升高，因此存在产生发粘感的倾向。由此特别是从使用感的观点考虑，要求进一步改良。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：国际公开第2016/068300号
非专利文献
非专利文献1：“新化妆品学”第2版、光井武夫编、2001年、南山堂发行、第497～504页
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明的目的在于，提供具有通过与水、汗等水分接触，与刚涂布之后相比紫外线防御效果改善这种特性，并且使用感也优异的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。
用于解决问题的方案
本发明人等为了解决前述问题而反复深入研究，结果发现，通过在含有紫外线防御剂的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品中，配合共聚物、和/或甲硅烷基化肽，所述共聚物具有：硅烷醇基；和，氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)，不仅通过与水、汗等水分接触而紫外线防御效果格外改善，而且发挥优异的使用感，从而完成了本发明。
即，本发明提供
一种油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品，其含有：(A)选自(a-1)共聚物及(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽中的至少一种、和(B)紫外线防御剂，
所述(a-1)共聚物具有：硅烷醇基；和，氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)。
发明的效果
本发明的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品通过具有上述技术特征，与刚将化妆品涂布于肌肤之后相比，与水、汗等接触后的紫外线防御能力格外改善。另外，通过本发明的成分(A)而紫外线防御能力充分改善，因此能够减少以往为了改善紫外线防御能力而配合的油相增稠剂的配合量，可以得到没有发粘感、使用感优异的油包水型乳化防晒化妆品。
具体实施方式
如上所述，本发明的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品(以下有时仅称为“化妆品”)，其特征在于，
其含有：(A)(a-1)共聚物和/或(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽、和(B)紫外线防御剂作为必须成分，
所述(a-1)共聚物具有：硅烷醇基；和，氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)。
以下对于构成本发明化妆品的各成分进行详细说明。
本发明的成分(A)为选自(a-1)共聚物和(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽中的至少一种，所述(a-1)共聚物具有：硅烷醇基；和，氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)。本发明的化妆品可以仅含有(a-1)或(a-2)中的任意一者、也可以含有(a-1)和(a-2)这两者。
配合于本发明化妆品的(a-1)具有硅烷醇基、和氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)的共聚物，为在聚合物的主链含有聚硅氧烷结构和聚氧化亚烷基结构、并且侧链具有三烷氧基硅烷基或硅烷醇基的共聚物(以下简称为“交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物”)。
构成本发明的(a-1)交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物的主链的聚硅氧烷结构由聚二烷基硅氧烷、优选聚二甲基硅氧烷形成，前述烷基(优选甲基)的一部分可以被苯基置换。
构成本发明的(a-1)交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物的主链的聚氧化亚烷基结构，优选作为重复单元，包含选自由氧化亚乙基(EO)、氧化亚丙基(PO)和氧化亚丁基(BO)组成的组中的至少一种。
本发明中的(a-1)交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物优选还具有由有机基团形成的侧链。作为形成侧链的有机基团，可列举出可以被氨基、羟基和羧基等取代基任意取代的烃基(优选烷基、例如碳数1～30左右的直链状或支链状的烷基、或苯基等)。烃基优选具有氨基、该氨基的氢原子可以被烷基等进一步取代。
本发明的(a-1)交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物优选在其主链还包含氮原子、优选前述侧链与该氮原子键合。
作为(a-1)交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物的更具体的例子，可列举出聚硅氧烷-29(INCI名)。聚硅氧烷-29被定义为通过末端具有环氧丙氧基丙基的二甲基硅氧烷聚合物和PEG-13二缩水甘油基醚、二乙基氨基丙基胺及氨基丙基三异丙氧基硅烷的反应而得到的复合硅氧烷化合物。
作为本发明的化妆品中的(a-1)交联型硅氧烷POA共聚物，可以使用市售品。例如优选使用“Silsoft CLX-E”(Momentive Performance Materials公司制)，该共聚物为属于“聚硅氧烷-29”的化合物。该共聚物具有下述结构：在主链包含聚硅氧烷结构、聚氧化亚烷基结构和氮原子，包含具有三烷氧基硅烷基的侧链和由有机基团形成的侧链，聚硅氧烷结构包含聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚氧化亚烷基结构包含聚氧化亚乙基和聚氧化异亚丙基，侧链与主链的氮原子键合。“Silsoft CLX-E”为包含该共聚物、一缩二丙二醇和水的商品。
作为配合于本发明化妆品的(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽，优选使用通式(I)所示的甲硅烷基化肽。
[式(I)中，R1、R2、R3表示碳数1～3的烷基或羟基，这些R1、R2、R3可以全部相同或不同。R4表示侧链的末端具有氨基的碱性氨基酸的去除末端氨基而成的残基，R5表示R4以外的氨基酸侧链，a为1或3，m为0～200，n为0～200，m+n为1～200。(其中，m和n仅表示氨基酸数、并非表示氨基酸序列的顺序。)]
通式(I)所示的(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽例如通过下述的通式(II)所示的甲硅烷基化合物和下述通式(III)所示的肽类进行缩合反应而得到。
[式(II)中，R6、R7、R8表示碳数1～3的烷基、碳数1～3的烷氧基、羟基或卤素原子，这些R6、R7、R8可以全部相同或不同。a表示1或3。]
[式(III)中，R4表示侧链的末端具有氨基的碱性氨基酸的去除末端氨基而成的残基，R5表示R4以外的氨基酸侧链，m为0～200，n为0～200，m+n为1～200。]
上述通式(I)所示的(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽中，R4为侧链的末端具有氨基的碱性氨基酸的去除末端氨基而成的残基，作为上述那样的侧链的末端具有氨基的碱性氨基酸，可列举出例如赖氨酸、精氨酸、羟基赖氨酸等。另外，R5表示R4以外的氨基酸的侧链，作为这种氨基酸，可列举出例如谷氨酸、天冬氨酸、丙氨酸、丝氨酸、苏氨酸、缬氨酸、蛋氨酸、亮氨酸、异亮氨酸、酪氨酸、苯基丙氨酸、脯氨酸、羟基脯氨酸等。
上述通式(III)所示的肽类中包含氨基酸、肽、氨基酸或肽的酯。作为上述氨基酸，可列举出丙氨酸、甘氨酸、缬氨酸、亮氨酸、异亮氨酸、脯氨酸、苯基丙氨酸、酪氨酸、丝氨酸、苏氨酸、蛋氨酸、精氨酸、组氨酸、赖氨酸、天冬酰胺、天冬氨酸、谷酰胺、谷氨酸、胱氨酸、半胱氨酸、半胱磺酸、色氨酸、羟基脯氨酸、羟基赖氨酸、O-磷酸丝氨酸、瓜氨酸等。
上述肽为利用酸、碱或酶将天然肽、合成肽、蛋白质部分水解而得到的水解肽等。作为天然肽，可列举出例如谷胱甘肽、杆菌肽A、胰岛素、胰高血糖素、催产素、加压素等，作为合成肽，可列举出例如聚甘氨酸、聚赖氨酸、聚谷氨酸、聚丝氨酸等。作为水解肽，为通过利用酸、碱、酶、或它们的组合使用将蛋白质部分水解而得到的肽，作为该蛋白质源，可列举出动物性蛋白质、植物性蛋白质、和源自微生物的蛋白质等，作为动物性蛋白质，可列举出例如丝、胶原(也包含作为其变性物的明胶)、角蛋白、丝维朊、丝胶、酪蛋白、贝壳硬蛋白、弹性蛋白、精蛋白、鸡等的蛋黄蛋白质、蛋白蛋白质等，作为植物性蛋白质，可列举出大豆、小麦、米(米糠)、芝麻、豌豆、玉米、薯类等中含有的蛋白质。另外，作为源自微生物的蛋白质，可列举出由酵母属、念珠菌属、拟内孢霉属的酵母菌、被称为啤酒酵母、清酒酵母的酵母菌分离的酵母蛋白质、由蘑菇类(担子菌)、小球藻分离的蛋白质等。
作为上述氨基酸或肽的酯，可列举出上述氨基酸或肽的羧基中的与碳数1～20的烃醇的酯、例如甲酯、乙酯、丙酯、异丙酯、月桂酯、鲸蜡酯、2-乙基己酯、2-己基癸酯、硬脂酯等。
作为(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽的进一步具体的例子，可列举出例如N-[2-羟基-3-(3-三羟基甲硅烷基)丙氧基]丙基水解蛋白、N-[2-羟基-3-(3-二羟基甲基甲硅烷基)丙氧基]丙基水解蛋白等。
作为本发明的化妆品中的(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽，可以使用市售品。可列举出例如“Promois S-700SIG”、“Promois W-52SIG”、“Promois WS-HSIG”(均为株式会社成和化成制)等，优选使用“Promois S-700SIG”。“Promois S-700SIG”为含有水解蚕丝PG-丙基甲基硅烷二醇、和1,3-丁二醇、尼泊金甲酯、尼泊金丙酯、和水的商品。
本发明的化妆品中的成分(A)的配合量没有特别限定，按成分(A)的纯度换算，相对于化妆品总量优选为0.08～2质量％、更优选0.15～1.5质量％。小于0.08质量％时，紫外线防御能力的改善效果不充分，若超过2质量％则存在产生发粘感的倾向。
配合于本发明的化妆品的(B)紫外线防御剂(以下有时仅称为“成分(B)”)指的是紫外线吸收剂和/或紫外线散射剂，可以使用防晒化妆品中通常配合的紫外线防御剂。
作为紫外线吸收剂，可例示出例如苯甲酸衍生物、水杨酸衍生物、肉桂酸衍生物、二苯甲酰基甲烷衍生物、β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物、二苯甲酮衍生物、苄叉基樟脑衍生物、苯基苯并咪唑衍生物、三嗪衍生物、苯基苯并三唑衍生物、蒽基衍生物、咪唑啉衍生物、丙二酸亚苄基酯衍生物、4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物等。以下列举出具体例和商品名等，但是不限于它们。
作为苯甲酸衍生物，可例示出对-氨基苯甲酸(PABA)乙酯、二羟基丙基PABA乙酯、二甲基PABA乙基己基酯(例如“ESCALO 5 ETHYL HEXYL P25”；BASF公司)、二乙基氨基羟基苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯(例如“Uvinul A plus”)等。
作为水杨酸衍生物，可例示出胡莫柳酯(“Eusolex HMS”；Rona/EM Industries公司)、水杨酸乙基己基酯或水杨酸辛酯(例如“NeoHeliopan OS”；Haarmann and Reimer公司)、一缩二丙二醇水杨酸酯(例如“Dipsal”；Scher公司)、TEA水杨酸酯(例如“NeoHeliopanTS”；Haarmann and Reimer公司)等。
作为肉桂酸衍生物，可例示出辛基甲氧基肉桂酸酯或甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己基酯(例如“PARSOL MCX”；F.Hoffmann-La Roche,Ltd.)、甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯(例如“NeoHeliopan E1000”；Haarmann and Reimer公司)、西诺沙酯、DEA甲氧基肉桂酸酯、甲基肉桂酸二异丙酯、甘油基-乙基己酸酯-二甲氧基肉桂酸酯、二-(2-乙基己基)-4’-甲氧基亚苄基丙二酸酯等。
作为二苯甲酰基甲烷衍生物，可例示出4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷(例如“PARSOL 1789”)等。
作为β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物，可例示出奥克立林(例如“Uvinul N539T”；BASF公司)等。
作为二苯甲酮衍生物，可例示出二苯甲酮-1(例如“Uvinul 400”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-2(例如“Uvinul D50”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-3或二苯酮(例如“Uvinul M40”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-4(例如“Uvinul MS40”；BASF公司)、二苯甲酮-5、二苯甲酮-6(例如“Helisorb 11”；Norquay公司)、二苯甲酮-8(例如“Spectra-Sorb UV-24”；AmericanCyanamid Co.)、二苯甲酮-9(例如“Uvinul DS-49”；BASF公司)、和二苯甲酮-12等。
作为苄叉基樟脑衍生物，可例示出3-苄叉基樟脑(例如“Mexoryl SD”；SysmexCorporation)、4-甲基苄叉基樟脑、苄叉基樟脑磺酸(例如“Mexoryl SL”；SysmexCorporation)、甲基硫酸樟脑苄烷铵(例如“Mexoryl SO”；Sysmex Corporation)、对苯二亚甲基二樟脑磺酸(例如“Mexoryl SX”；Sysmex Corporation)、聚丙烯酰胺甲基苄叉基樟脑(例如“Mexoryl SW”；Sysmex Corporation)等。
作为苯基苯并咪唑衍生物，可例示出苯基苯并咪唑磺酸(例如“Eusolex 232”；Merck Ltd.)、苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸二钠(例如“NeoHeliopan AP”；Haarmann and Reimer公司)等。
作为三嗪衍生物，可例示出双乙基己氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三嗪(例如“TinosorbS”；Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc.)、乙基己基三嗪酮(例如“Uvinul T150”；BASF公司)、二乙基己基丁酰胺基三嗪酮(例如“Uvasorb HEB”；SIGMA 3V公司)、2,4,6-三(二异丁基-4’-氨基亚苄基丙二酸酯)-均三嗪、2,4,6-三[4-(2-乙基己氧基羰基)苯胺基]-1,3,5-三嗪等。
作为苯基苯并三唑衍生物，可例示出甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷(例如“Silatrizole”；Rhodia Chimie公司)、亚甲基双(苯并三唑基四甲基丁基苯酚)(例如“Tinosorb M”(CibaSpecialty Chemicals Inc.))等。
作为蒽基衍生物，可例示出邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯(例如“NeoHeliopan MA”；Haarmann and Reimer公司)等。
作为咪唑啉衍生物，可例示出乙基己基二甲氧基苄叉基-二氧代咪唑啉丙酸酯等。
作为亚苄基丙二酸酯衍生物，可例示出具有亚苄基丙二酸酯官能团的聚有机硅氧烷(例如聚硅氧烷-15；“PARSOL SLX”；DSM Nutrition Japan K.K.)等。
作为4,4-二烯丙基丁二烯衍生物，可例示出1,1-二羧基(2,2’-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯等。
本发明中使用的紫外线散射剂没有特别限定，作为具体例，可列举出细颗粒状的金属氧化物、例如氧化锌、氧化钛、氧化铁、氧化铈、氧化钨等。
紫外线散射剂可以没有进行表面处理或进行了各种疏水化表面处理，但是优选使用进行了疏水化表面处理的紫外线散射剂。作为表面处理剂，没有特别限定，可以使用化妆品领域中通用的表面处理剂、例如聚二甲基硅氧烷、烷基改性硅氧烷等硅氧烷、辛基三乙氧基硅烷等烷氧基硅烷、糊精棕榈酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯、硬脂酸等脂肪酸。
本发明中的成分(B)包括仅包含紫外线吸收剂的方式、仅包含紫外线散射剂的方式、和包含紫外线吸收剂和紫外线散射剂这两者的方式。
本发明的化妆品中的成分(B)的配合量没有特别限定，相对于化妆品总量优选为5～40质量％、更优选10～30质量％、进一步优选10～20质量％。成分(B)的配合量小于5质量％时，有可能难以得到充分的紫外线防御效果，即使配合超过40质量％，也不能期待与配合量相符的紫外线防御效果的增加，并且从乳化稳定性有可能变差等观点考虑不优选。
具有上述技术特征的本发明的化妆品，具有与水分接触时紫外线防御效果(吸光度)改善这种特性。“通过与水分接触而紫外线防御效果(吸光度)改善”可以大体上如下所述定义。将乳化型化妆品的样品规定量滴加到测定板上、以规定面积涂布、进行干燥而形成涂膜。该涂膜的吸光度通过分光光度计等测定，将没有紫外线吸收的物质(例如甘油)的涂膜的吸光度作为基准，作为前述涂膜(水浴前)的吸光度累计值(Absbefore)。
接着，将形成有该涂膜的测定板在规定条件下浸渍于水，同样地测定进行干燥后的涂膜(水浴后)的吸光度累计值(Absafter)。
水浴前后的吸光度的变化率(Abs变化率)根据以下式子计算。
Abs变化率(％)＝[(Absafter)/(Absbefore)]×100
Abs变化率超过100％时，定义为紫外线防御效果改善的情况。
对于本发明的化妆品，该Abs变化率至少超过100％、优选为105％以上、更优选110％以上、进一步优选115％以上、特别优选120％以上。
本发明的化妆品中，为了进一步改善紫外线防御效果，除了成分(A)、(B)之外，可以还配合(C)油相增稠剂(以下有时仅称为“成分(C)”)。通过成分(C)的配合，利用本发明的成分(A)实现的紫外线防御能力协同地改善。
作为本发明的化妆品中使用的成分(C)，没有特别限定，可以从作为在乳化化妆品等中、通过溶解于油分或利用油分溶胀而发挥将油相增稠的效果的成分使用的物质适当选择。作为具体例，可列举出糊精棕榈酸酯、糊精肉豆蔻酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯；蔗糖辛酸酯等蔗糖脂肪酸酯；月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸等常温下为固体的碳数8～22的高级脂肪酸或其盐；二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石、苄基二甲基硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石等有机改性粘土矿物等。它们之中，优选使用有机改性粘土矿物、糊精脂肪酸酯和蔗糖脂肪酸酯中的任意一种或组合2种以上来使用。
本发明的化妆品中的(C)成分的配合量没有特别限定，相对于化妆品总量优选为0.1～3质量％、更优选0.3～1质量％。存在成分(C)的配合量越多则越产生发粘感的倾向。
本发明的化妆品，除了上述成分之外，还含有构成油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品的油分和水、根据需要配合表面活性剂(乳化剂)。
本发明的化妆品中使用的表面活性剂只要为油包水型乳化化妆品中通常使用的表面活性剂则没有特别限定，从使用感的观点考虑，优选为具有硅氧烷骨架(聚硅氧烷结构)、HLB小于8的表面活性剂。例如优选使用聚醚改性硅氧烷、聚醚·烷基共改性硅氧烷、聚甘油改性硅氧烷、和/或聚甘油·烷基共改性硅氧烷，其中，更优选为聚醚改性硅氧烷、聚醚·烷基改性硅氧烷。
前述表面活性剂的配合量没有特别限定，相对于化妆品总量优选为0.1～10质量％、更优选0.5～5质量％。
本发明的化妆品中使用的油分没有特别限定，可列举出例如鳄梨油、山茶籽油、澳洲坚果油、貂油、橄榄油、蓖麻油、霍霍巴油、三聚甘油、三辛酸甘油酯等液体油脂；液体石蜡、角鲨烷、链烷烃、白蜡(Ceresin)、角鲨烯等烃油；月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、二十二烷酸、油酸、12-羟基硬脂酸、异硬脂酸、亚油酸、亚油酸(linoleic acid)等高级脂肪酸；月桂醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、油醇、单硬脂基甘油醚、单棕榈基甘油醚、胆甾醇、植物甾醇、异硬脂醇等高级醇；异壬酸异壬酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、硬脂酸丁酯、油酸癸酯、二辛酸乙二醇酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、三辛酸三羟甲基丙烷酯、三异硬脂酸三羟甲基丙烷酯、四辛酸季戊四醇酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三异硬脂酸甘油酯、乙酸乙酯、乙酸丁酯、乙酸戊酯等酯油；二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢化聚硅氧烷、二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷等直链状硅油；十甲基环戊硅氧烷、十二甲基环己硅氧烷、八甲基环四硅氧烷等环状硅油等，可以使用1种或组合2种以上来使用。从使用感的观点考虑，作为油分，优选为硅油。
前述油分的配合量没有特别限定，相对于化妆品总量优选为10～70质量％、更优选15～70质量％、进一步优选20～70质量％。通过含有上述范围的油分，涂展良好、另外耐水性和使用感优异。
本发明的化妆品中使用的水优选使用离子交换水、纯化水。水的含量适当确定，相对于化妆品总量优选为1～30质量％。
本发明的化妆品除了上述成分之外，可以根据需要适当配合通常化妆品中使用的成分、例如保湿剂、覆膜剂、水相增稠剂、醇、螯合剂、色材、颜料、珠光剂、抗氧化剂(antioxidant)、香料、各种药效成分、防腐剂等。
本发明的化妆品可以根据油包水型乳化物的制造中以往使用的方法制造。例如分别制造水相成分和油相成分后、将这些水相和油相混合、利用均相混合机等乳化，由此可以得到本发明的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。
作为本发明的化妆品的具体的剂型，没有特别限定，可以形成发挥水浴后改善的防晒效果的化妆水、乳液、乳膏、护肤液、喷雾剂等。本发明的化妆品可以使用适于各剂型的常规方法制造。
实施例
以下列举出实施例对本发明进行更详细说明，但是本发明不被它们任何限定。配合量只要没有特别说明则表示相对于化妆品总量的质量％。在对各实施例进行具体说明之前，对所采用的评价方法进行说明。
＜紫外线防御能力改善效果＞
在测定板(S板)(5×5cm的V槽PMMA板、SPFMASTER-PA01)上以2mg/cm2的量滴加各例的化妆品(样品)，用指头涂布60秒、干燥15分钟后，所形成的涂膜的吸光度利用株式会社日立制作所制U-3500型自记录分光光度计测定。将没有紫外线吸收的甘油作为对照，吸光度(Abs)利用以下的式子算出，将280nm～400nm时的测定值累计、求出吸光度累计值。
Abs＝-log(T/To)
T：样品的透过率、To：甘油的透过率
将所测定的板充分浸渍于硬度50～500的水，直接在水中搅拌30分钟(利用3-1电动机、300rpm)。然后，干燥15～30分钟左右直至表面的水滴消失为止，再次测定吸光度，与上述同样地求出吸光度累计值。
接着由水浴前后的Abs累计值算出Abs变化率(以下的式子)、作为紫外线防御能力改善效果的指标。
紫外线防御能力改善效果：
Abs变化率(％)＝[(Absafter)/(Absbefore)]×100
＜使用感＞
让10名专门小组成员实际使用各样品，对于使用感(没有发粘感)，根据下述评价基准以4个等级进行官能评价。
“评价基准”
A：与对照相比非常没有发粘感。
B：与对照相比没有发粘感。
C：存在与对照同等的发粘感。
D：与对照相比存在发粘感。
＜实施例1、2及比较例1＞
根据常规方法制造具有以下的表1中记载的组成的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。根据上述评价方法评价紫外线防御能力改善效果。其结果汇总示于表。
[表1]
如上述表1所示那样，在没有配合油相增稠剂的化妆品中不配合本发明的成分(A)的情况(比较例1)下，由于水浴而紫外线防御效果降低，与此相对地，配合有本发明的成分(A)的情况(实施例1、2)下，水浴后的紫外线防御能力显著改善。
＜实施例3～6及比较例2＞
利用常规方法制造具有以下的表2中记载的组成的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。根据上述评价方法评价紫外线防御能力改善效果和使用感。需要说明的是，进行使用感的评价时，使用比较例2作为对照。它们的结果汇总示于表。
[表2]
如上述表2所示那样，比较例2(对照)由于配合专利文献1中作为发挥改善水浴后的紫外线防御能力的效果的成分列举出的二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石，因此具有水浴后的紫外线防御能力改善效果。另一方面，配合本发明的成分(A)、进而加入二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石的情况(实施例3～6)下，与比较例2相比水浴后的紫外线防御能力改善效果增大。除此之外，与比较例2相比，发粘感也得到抑制、为极其良好的使用感。
＜实施例7及比较例3＞
利用常规方法制造具有以下的表3中记载的组成的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品。根据上述评价方法评价紫外线防御能力改善效果。其结果汇总示于表。
[表3]
将本发明的成分(A)和油相增稠剂(成分(C))组合来配合的情况(实施例7)的水浴后的紫外线防御能力改善效果，与仅含有本发明的成分(A)的情况(实施例1)和仅含有成分(C)的情况(比较例3)进行比较。由表3所示的结果证明，通过将成分(A)和成分(C)组合实现的水浴后的紫外线防御能力改善效果的增大是协同的。
Claims (5)
1.一种油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品，其含有：(A)选自(a-1)共聚物及(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽中的至少一种、和(B)紫外线防御剂，
所述(a-1)共聚物具有：硅烷醇基；和，氧化亚丙基(PO)或氧化亚乙基(EO)。
2.根据权利要求1所述的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品，其中，所述(a-1)共聚物为主链含有聚硅氧烷结构和聚氧化亚烷基结构、并且含有具有三烷氧基硅烷基或硅烷醇基的侧链的共聚物。
3.根据权利要求1所述的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品，其中，所述(a-2)甲硅烷基化肽为N-[2-羟基-3-(3-三羟基甲硅烷基)丙氧基]丙基水解蛋白或N-[2-羟基-3-(3-二羟基甲基甲硅烷基)丙氧基]丙基水解蛋白。
4.根据权利要求1～3中任一项所述的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品，其中，所述成分(A)的配合量为0.08～2质量％。
5.根据权利要求1～4中任一项所述的油包水型乳化皮肤化妆品，其还含有(C)油相增稠剂。
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Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2021131720A1 (ja) | 2021-07-01 |
| EP4082625A1 (en) | 2022-11-02 |
| US20230050910A1 (en) | 2023-02-16 |
| EP4082625A4 (en) | 2024-02-28 |
| JPWO2021131720A1 (zh) | 2021-07-01 |
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