CN114845690A - 粉末固体化妆品的制造方法 - Google Patents
粉末固体化妆品的制造方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114845690A CN114845690A CN202080089439.XA CN202080089439A CN114845690A CN 114845690 A CN114845690 A CN 114845690A CN 202080089439 A CN202080089439 A CN 202080089439A CN 114845690 A CN114845690 A CN 114845690A
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Abstract
目的在于，提供具有与配合弹性球状粉末时相同程度的使用性、并且粉末的分散性优异、具备高的耐冲击性的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法。本发明的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法，其特征在于，其具备将粉末成分和作为粘合剂的油性成分在挥发性溶剂中混合而形成浆料的浆料制造工序，前述粉末成分含有球状粉末，该球状粉末含有(A)每一颗粒的压坏强度为30MPa以上的非弹性球状粉末，前述油性成分含有(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物，前述(A)非弹性球状粉末占粉末固体化妆品的6～25质量％，(A)非弹性球状粉末占前述粉末成分中含有的球状粉末的90质量％以上。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及粉末固体化妆品的制造方法。更详细而言，涉及：即使没有实质上配合弹性球状粉末也能够实现优异的使用性、而且粉末的分散性优异、具备高耐冲击性的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法。
背景技术
粉末固体化妆品是粉底、眼影等中通用的化妆品基质。通常粉末固体化妆品通过作为主要成分的粉末及作为其粘合剂或附着剂发挥作用的油分构成。粉末部分成为化妆品的主要基材，因此对肌肤上的涂匀、光滑度、均匀的完成状态之类的使用性产生较大影响。其中球状粉末通过在皮肤上滚动而改善滑动性、涂展简单，在实现干爽的定妆感方面具有重要的作用。
作为球状粉末，特别是为了改善触感的光滑度、柔软度，大多使用聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)、尼龙、氨基甲酸酯等合成树脂。
然而，这些当中，柔软性比较高的弹性球状粉末由于为球状，因此与其它粉末的接触面变小，而且由于其弹力性而难以固化、成形性差。因此，即使能对粉末固体化妆品赋予优异的使用性，也难以同时实现充足的耐冲击性。
也进行了用于改善包含弹性球状粉末的粉末固体化妆品的耐冲击性的尝试，例如提出了：作为粘合剂，使用在气体中利用蒸发法进行微粒化而成的固体油粉末(专利文献1)、配合球状聚烯烃树脂粉末(专利文献2)、使用特定结构的旋转叶片对置型混合装置(专利文献3)等。然而，除了受到必须使用特定的原料、特定的装置之类的限制之外，关于耐冲击性期待进一步改善。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开2005-272427号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2006-169207号公报
专利文献3：日本特开2009-167181号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明是鉴于前述实际情况而提出的，其目的在于，提供具有与配合弹性球状粉末时相同程度的使用性、并且粉末的分散性优异、具备高的耐冲击性的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法。
用于解决问题的方案
本发明人为了解决上述问题而进行深入研究，结果发现，作为粉末固体化妆品的原料，使用规定的非弹性球状粉末、和凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物，并且经过将含有这些原料的混合物溶解或分散于挥发性溶剂中而浆料化，自浆料去除挥发性溶剂进行干燥的工序制造粉末固体化妆品，由此对于粉末固体化妆品而言，可以同时实现优异的使用性、分散性、耐冲击性，从而完成了本发明。
即，本发明的主旨在于一种粉末固体化妆品的制造方法，其具备将粉末成分和作为粘合剂的油性成分在挥发性溶剂中混合而形成浆料的浆料制造工序，
前述粉末成分含有球状粉末，该球状粉末含有(A)每一颗粒的压坏强度为30MPa以上的非弹性球状粉末，
前述油性成分含有(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物，
前述(A)非弹性球状粉末占粉末固体化妆品的6～25质量％，
(A)非弹性球状粉末占前述粉末成分中含有的球状粉末的90质量％以上。
通常已知若高配合(A)非弹性球状粉末则与配合弹性球状粉末的情况相比耐冲击性改善，但是干燥的触感显著、使用性变差。
另外，若将为高粘性流体的(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物加入到粉末则预计使用性改善，但是粉末聚集，存在难以均匀分散的倾向。特别是若将(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物和弹性球状粉末组合使用，则有可能产生在化妆品发现颜色深的部分、浅的部分等填充不均，或者耐冲击性大幅受损。因此预想，即使将(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物与非弹性球状粉末组合使用的情况下，也不能避免粉末的聚集。
但是，通过作为与(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物组合的非弹性球状粉末，使用每一颗粒的压坏强度为30MPa以上的粉末，进而经过将它们在挥发性溶剂中混合而形成浆料的工序制造化妆品，令人惊讶地发现，非弹性球状粉末大幅改善粉末的分散性，由此不会产生粉末的聚集，并且可以实现没有干燥感、光滑且具有涂匀性的使用性。
发明的效果
本发明可以制造即使没有配合以往的粉末固体化妆品中通用的弹性球状粉末也具有充分的使用性、并且粉末的均匀的分散性和耐冲击性也优异的粉末固体化妆品。
具体实施方式
本发明的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法包括作为粉末固体化妆品的原料，使用(A)非弹性球状粉末、和(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物；以及将它们在挥发性溶剂中混合而形成浆料。以下进行具体说明。
＜(A)非弹性球状粉末＞
本发明中使用的(A)非弹性球状粉末只要每一颗粒的压坏强度为30MPa以上、优选35MPa以上、更优选40MPa以上则能够使用无机球状粉末、有机球状粉末中的任意种。本发明中的每一颗粒的压坏强度，为使用岛津制作所制微小压缩试验机MCT-211对试样一颗粒以一定的增加比率提供负荷力、算出颗粒破坏的时刻的强度而得到的值。若压坏强度小于30MPa则柔软性过高而难以具有充分的成形强度，另外不能充分改善粉末的分散性。
(A)非弹性球状粉末的平均粒径处于1～30μm的范围内、优选处于3～20μm的范围内、更优选处于5～15μm的范围内。若平均粒径小于1μm则涂布化妆品时的光滑度失去，若超过30μm则存在产生粗糙感、滚动的异物感的倾向。
(A)非弹性球状粉末的形状需要为球状，但是无需严谨地为真球状，例如可以是截面为椭圆形的球状。从更干爽而得到优选的触感的观点考虑，优选为真球状。
作为(A)非弹性球状粉末，可列举出例如球状二氧化硅、球状氧化铝、球状二氧化钛、球状碳酸钙等。特别是从使用性的观点考虑，优选为球状二氧化硅、进一步优选多孔的二氧化硅颗粒。进而，可以对非弹性球状粉末进行表面处理。对于表面处理，可列举出例如硅氧烷化合物处理、氟改性硅氧烷化合物处理、氟化合物处理、高级脂肪酸处理、高级醇处理、脂肪酸酯处理、金属皂处理、氨基酸处理、烷基磷酸酯处理等。
(A)非弹性球状粉末可以使用市售品。可列举出例如Satinier M-5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)、SUNSPHERE L-51(AGC Si-Tech Co.,Ltd.)等。
本发明中的(A)非弹性球状粉末的配合量相对于全部粉末固体化妆品为6～25质量％、优选8～20质量％、更优选10～15质量％。若(A)非弹性球状粉末在粉末固体化妆品中所占的量小于6质量％则使用性变差、粉末的分散性受损、有可能产生聚集。另外，存在即使配合超过25质量％，也得不到与配合量相符的使用性、成形性、耐冲击性的倾向。
(A)非弹性球状粉末需要占化妆品中含有的全部球状粉末的90质量％以上、优选占95质量％以上、更优选占99质量％以上。若全部球状粉末中的(A)非弹性球状粉末的比率小于90质量％则粉末的分散性受损、有可能产生聚集。
在此，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中有可能含有的(A)非弹性球状粉末以外的“球状粉末”为包含弹性且球状的所有粉末的概念，可列举出例如硅氧烷弹性体粉末、硅氧烷粉末、覆盖硅氧烷树脂的硅氧烷弹性体粉末、聚酰胺树脂粉末(尼龙粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯和丙烯酸的共聚物树脂粉末、苯并胍胺树脂粉末、聚氨酯树脂粉末等。
不过从成形性和耐冲击性的观点考虑，无论球状或非球状，均优选不配合弹性粉末。
需要说明的是，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中含有的全部球状粉末(包含弹性和非弹性)相对于全部粉末固体化妆品为1～30质量％、更优选5～25质量％、进一步优选5～15质量％。若球状粉末的配合量小于1质量％则得不到充分的使用性，若配合超过30质量％则存在成形性、耐冲击性变差的倾向。
另外，为了进一步改善使用性、成形性，(A)非弹性球状粉末优选占化妆品中含有的全部粉末的5质量％以上、进一步优选占6质量％以上或7质量％以上、特别优选占10质量％以上。另一方面，(A)非弹性球状粉末优选为化妆品中含有的全部粉末的30质量％以下、更优选25质量％以下、进一步优选20质量％以下。存在即使全部粉末中的(A)非弹性球状粉末的比率增多、也得不到与配合量相符的使用性、成形性、耐冲击性的倾向。
＜(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物＞
本发明中使用的(B)成分为利用包含液态硅油的溶剂使有机聚硅氧烷交联键合而得到的聚合物溶胀为凝胶状得到的。
作为构成(B)成分的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物，可列举出例如聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物等部分交联型甲基聚硅氧烷；PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷/PEG-10/15交联聚合物、PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基甲硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物等部分交联型烷基·聚醚共改性硅氧烷；聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3交联聚合物等部分交联型聚甘油改性硅氧烷等，它们可以使用1种或组合2种以上来使用。它们之中，特别优选为聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物。
对于作为构成(B)成分的溶剂的液态硅油的具体例，可列举出聚二甲基硅氧烷、环戊硅氧烷、甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷等挥发性环状硅氧烷系油分、挥发性直链状硅氧烷系油分，但是它们之中，特别优选为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
(B)成分中的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物的含量优选为10～30质量％、更优选15～25质量％。
(B)成分可以使用市售品，可列举出例如KSG-16(为聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷6cs的混合物、交联物为20～30％)、KSG-19(为聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷6cs的混合物、交联物为10～20％)、KSG-310(为PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、液体石蜡的混合物、交联物为25～35％)、KSG-710(为聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3交联聚合物、二甲基聚硅氧烷的混合物、交联物为20～30％)、KSG-18A(为聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷的混合物、交联物为10～20％)、KSG-210(为聚二甲基硅氧烷/PEG-10/15交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物、交联物为20～30％)、KSG-360Z(为PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基甲硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物、交联物为30～40％)(以上信越化学工业株式会社)等。
本发明中的(B)成分的配合量相对于全部粉末固体化妆品为1～15质量％、优选2～10质量％、更优选3～7质量％。若配合量小于1质量％则使用性有可能变差，若配合超过15质量％则涂布时的均匀性有可能失去。
＜任意配合成分＞
本发明中制造的粉末固体化妆品中，除了上述(A)及(B)成分以外，在不会阻碍本发明效果的范围内可以配合化妆品中通常使用的成分。
例如可以根据需要适当配合上述以外的粉末成分、油性成分、表面活性剂、紫外线防御剂等。
作为上述以外的粉末成分，若为通常的化妆品中能够使用的粉末成分则没有特别限定，可列举出例如滑石、高岭土、绢云母(sericite)、白云母、金云母、合成云母、合成氟金云母、红云母、黑云母、煅烧滑石、焙烧绢云母、焙烧白云母、焙烧金云母、蛭石、碳酸镁、碳酸钙、硅酸铝、硅酸钡、硅酸钙、硅酸镁、硅酸锶、钨酸金属盐、镁、二氧化硅、沸石、硫酸钡、煅烧硫酸钙(烧石膏)、磷酸钙、氟磷灰石、羟磷灰石、陶瓷粉末、金属皂(例如肉豆蔻酸锌、棕榈酸钙、硬脂酸铝等)、光致变色性氧化钛(烧结有氧化铁的二氧化钛)、还原锌白；有机粉末(例如硅氧烷弹性体粉末、硅氧烷粉末、覆盖硅氧烷树脂的硅氧烷弹性体粉末、聚酰胺树脂粉末(尼龙粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯和丙烯酸的共聚物树脂粉末、苯并胍胺树脂粉末、聚四氟乙烯粉末等)；无机白色系颜料(例如二氧化钛、氧化锌等)；无机红色系颜料(例如氧化铁(氧化铁红)、钛酸铁等)；无机褐色系颜料(例如γ-氧化铁等)；无机黄色系颜料(例如黄色氧化铁、黄土等)；无机黑色系颜料(例如黑色氧化铁、低阶氧化钛等)；无机紫色系颜料(例如锰紫、钴紫等)；无机绿色系颜料(例如氧化铬、氢氧化铬、钛酸钴等)；无机蓝色系颜料(例如群青、普鲁士蓝等)；珠光颜料(例如氯氧化铋、鱼鳞箔、云母钛、覆盖氧化铁的云母钛、覆盖低阶氧化钛的云母钛、具有光致变色性的云母钛、使用滑石、玻璃、合成氟金云母、二氧化硅、氯氧化铋等替代云母作为基板而成的物质、作为覆盖物、除了氧化钛以外覆盖低阶氧化钛、着色氧化钛、氧化铁、氧化铝、二氧化硅、氧化锆、氧化锌、氧化钴、铝等而成的物质、作为功能性珠光颜料、在珠光颜料表面覆盖树脂颗粒而成的物质(日本特开平11-92688)、在珠光颜料表面覆盖氢氧化铝颗粒而成的物质(日本特开2002-146238)、在珠光颜料表面覆盖氧化锌颗粒而成的物质(日本特开2003-261421)、在珠光颜料表面覆盖硫酸钡颗粒而成的物质(日本特愿2003-61229)等)；金属粉末颜料(例如铝粉末、铜粉末等)；锆、钡或铝色淀等有机颜料(例如红色201号、红色202号、红色204号、红色205号、红色220号、红色226号、红色228号、红色405号、橙色203号、橙色204号、黄色205号、黄色401号、和蓝色404号、红色3号、红色104号、红色106号、红色227号、红色230号、红色401号、红色505号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、绿色3号及蓝色1号等)；天然色素(例如叶绿素、β-胡萝卜素等)等。
作为油性成分，若为通常的化妆品中能够使用的油性成分则没有特别限定，可列举出液体油脂、固体油脂、蜡类、烃油、高级脂肪酸、高级醇、合成酯油、硅油等。
以下的说明中，POE为聚氧化亚乙基的略记、POP为聚氧化亚丙基的略记，POE或POP的后面的括号内的数字表示该化合物中的POE基或POP基的平均加成摩尔数。
作为液体油脂，可列举出例如鳄梨油、山茶籽油、海龟油、澳洲坚果油、玉米油、貂油、橄榄油、菜籽油、蛋黄油、芝麻油、桃仁油、小麦胚芽油、落瓣油茶籽油、蓖麻油、亚麻籽油、红花油、棉籽油、紫苏子油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、榧树油、米糠油、泡桐油、日本桐油、霍霍巴油、胚芽油、三聚甘油等。
作为固体油脂，可列举出例如可可脂、椰子油、马油、氢化椰子油、棕榈油、牛脂、羊脂、氢化牛脂、棕榈仁油、猪脂、牛骨脂、木蜡仁油、氢化油、牛蹄油、木蜡、氢化蓖麻油等。
作为蜡类，可列举出例如蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、棉蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、杨梅蜡、虫白蜡、鲸蜡、褐煤蜡、米糠蜡、羊毛脂、木棉蜡、乙酸羊毛脂、液态羊毛脂、甘蔗蜡、羊毛脂脂肪酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、还原羊毛脂、霍霍巴蜡、硬质羊毛脂、紫胶蜡、POE羊毛脂醇醚、POE羊毛脂醇乙酸酯、POE胆甾醇醚、羊毛脂脂肪酸聚乙二醇酯、POE氢化羊毛脂醇醚等。
作为烃油，可列举出例如液体石蜡、地蜡(Ozokerite)、角鲨烷、姥鲛烷、石蜡、白蜡(Ceresin)、角鲨烯、凡士林、微晶蜡等。
作为高级脂肪酸，可列举出例如月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、二十二烷酸、油酸、十一碳烯酸、妥尔酸、异硬脂酸、亚油酸、亚油酸(linoleic acid)、二十碳五烯酸(EPA)、二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)等。
作为高级醇，可列举出例如直链醇(例如月桂醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、肉豆蔻醇、油醇、十六烷醇十八烷醇混合物等)；支链醇(例如单硬脂基甘油醚(鲨肝醇)、2-癸基十四碳炔醇、羊毛脂醇、胆甾醇、植物甾醇、己基十二烷醇、异硬脂醇、辛基十二烷醇等)等。
作为合成酯油，可列举出肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乙酸羊毛脂、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、12-羟基硬脂酸胆甾醇酯、二-2-乙基己酸乙二醇酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、单异硬脂酸N-烷基二醇酯、二癸酸新戊二醇酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、二-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、三-2-乙基己酸三羟甲基丙烷酯、三异硬脂酸三羟甲基丙烷酯、四-2-乙基己酸季戊四醇酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三异棕榈酸甘油酯、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、三-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、油酸油酯、乙酰甘油酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、己二酸二异丁酯、N-月桂酰基-L-谷氨酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、己二酸二-2-庚基十一烷基酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二-2-乙基己基酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸基酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸基酯、己二酸2-己基癸基酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、柠檬酸三乙酯等。
作为硅油，可列举出二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢化聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、硬脂氧基甲基聚硅氧烷、聚醚改性有机聚硅氧烷、氟烷基·聚氧化亚烷基共改性有机聚硅氧烷、烷基改性有机聚硅氧烷、末端未改性有机聚硅氧烷、氟改性有机聚硅氧烷、氨基改性有机聚硅氧烷、硅凝胶、丙烯酸硅氧烷、三甲基甲硅烷氧基硅酸、硅氧烷RTV橡胶等硅氧烷化合物等。
作为表面活性剂，优选含有亲油性非离子性表面活性剂。作为亲油性非离子性表面活性剂，优选列举出HLB为2～10、更优选3～6的非离子性表面活性剂。可列举出例如POE(2)硬脂醚、自乳化型单硬脂酸丙二醇酯、肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯、自乳化型单硬脂酸甘油酯、单异硬脂酸甘油酯、单油酸甘油酯、三硬脂酸六甘油酯、五硬脂酸十甘油酯、五异硬脂酸十甘油酯、五油酸十甘油酯、山梨坦单硬脂酸酯、山梨坦三硬脂酸酯、山梨坦单异硬脂酸酯、山梨坦倍半异硬脂酸酯、山梨坦单油酸酯、六硬脂酸POE(6)山梨醇酯、POE(3)蓖麻油、PEG(2)单硬脂酸酯、单硬脂酸乙二醇酯、PEG(2)硬脂酸酯等。
作为紫外线防御剂(紫外线吸收剂和/或紫外线散射剂)，可以使用化妆品中通常配合的紫外线防御剂。
紫外线吸收剂没有特别限定，可广泛列举出通常化妆品中使用的紫外线吸收剂。可列举出例如苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如对氨基苯甲酸(以下简称为PABA)、PABA单甘油酯、N,N-二丙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二乙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA丁酯等)；邻氨基苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如高孟基-N-乙酰基邻氨基苯甲酸酯等)；水杨酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如水杨酸戊酯、水杨酸薄荷酯、胡莫柳酯、水杨酸辛酯、水杨酸苯酯、水杨酸苄酯、水杨酸对异丙醇苯酯等)；肉桂酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如辛基甲氧基肉桂酸酯、乙基-4-异丙基肉桂酸酯、甲基-2,5-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、乙基-2,4-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、甲基-2,4-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、丙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、异丙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、异戊基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、辛基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯(2-乙基己基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯)、2-乙氧基乙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、环己基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、乙基-α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸酯、2-乙基己基-α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸酯、甘油基单-2-乙基己酰基-二对甲氧基肉桂酸酯等)；二苯甲酮系紫外线吸收剂(例如2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮、2,2’-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2’-二羟基-4,4’-二甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2’,4,4’-四羟基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基-4’-甲基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮-5-磺酸盐、4-苯基二苯甲酮、2-乙基己基-4’-苯基-二苯甲酮-2-羧酸酯、2-羟基-4-正辛氧基二苯甲酮、4-羟基-3-羧基二苯甲酮等)；3-(4’-甲基苄叉基)-d,l-樟脑、3-苄叉基-d,l-樟脑；2-苯基-5-甲基苯并噁唑；2,2’-羟基-5-甲基苯基苯并三唑；2-(2’-羟基-5’-叔辛基苯基)苯并三唑；2-(2’-羟基-5’-甲基苯基苯并三唑；二苄连氮；二茴香酰基甲烷；4-甲氧基-4’-叔丁基二苯甲酰基甲烷；5-(3,3-二甲基-2-亚降冰片烯基)-3-戊烷-2-酮、二吗啉代基哒嗪酮；2-乙基己基-2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸酯；2,4-双-{[4-(2-乙基己氧基)-2-羟基]-苯基}-6-(4-甲氧基苯基)-(1,3,5)-三嗪等。
紫外线散射剂没有特别限定，作为具体例，可列举出细颗粒状的金属氧化物、例如氧化锌、氧化钛、氧化铁、氧化铈、氧化钨等。
紫外线散射剂可以没有进行表面处理或进行了各种疏水化表面处理。作为表面处理剂，可以使用化妆品领域中通用的表面处理剂、例如聚二甲基硅氧烷、烷基改性硅氧烷等硅氧烷、辛基三乙氧基硅烷等烷氧基硅烷、糊精棕榈酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯、硬脂酸等脂肪酸。
另外，在本发明的粉末固体化妆品中，在达成本发明目的的范围内也可以适当配合pH调节剂、保湿剂、增稠剂、分散剂、稳定剂、着色剂、防腐剂、抗氧化剂、香料等。
需要说明的是，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中也可以配合通常配合于化妆品的多元醇，但是存在附着性降低的倾向，因此配合时相对于全部粉末固体化妆品优选限于1质量％以下、更优选完全不配合(0质量％)。作为多元醇的代表例，可列举出一缩二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、异戊二醇、1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、聚乙二醇、甘油、二聚甘油、山梨醇、麦芽糖醇、蜜三糖等。
＜制造方法＞
本发明的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法若具备将粉末成分和作为粘合剂的油性成分在挥发性溶剂中混合而形成浆料的“浆料制造工序”则没有特别限定，可以使用公知的方法。
作为将粉末成分和油性成分在挥发性分散介质中混合而形成浆料的方法，可列举出以下那样的方法。
将粉末成分和油性成分预先利用亨舍尔混合机(注册商标)、粉磨机等干式混合/破碎得到的物质添加到挥发性分散介质中，利用分散混合器、均化器、行星混合机、COMBIMIX(注册商标)、AGI HOMO MIXER和双螺杆混炼机等混合/分散。需要说明的是，在油性成分中含有25℃下为固体或糊剂状的油分的情况下，优选在将油性成分加热溶解后与粉末成分干式混合。
浆料制造工序中，粉末成分与油性成分的量比(质量比)虽然取决于所使用的油性成分、粉末成分的种类，但是优选为粉末成分/油性成分＝60/40～99.5/0.5。另外，此时使用的挥发性分散介质的量也取决于所使用的挥发性分散介质的极性、比重等，因此不能规定，但是填充成型时确保充分的流动性是重要的，通常使用化妆品构成成分的一半～2倍左右。
作为挥发性溶剂，没有特别限制，可列举出纯化水、环状硅氧烷、轻质液体异链烷烃、低级醇、醚类、LPG、氟碳化物、N-甲基吡咯烷酮、氟醇、挥发性直链状硅氧烷等。作为低级醇的代表的例子，可列举出乙醇、异丙醇等。这些溶剂根据所使用的配合成分的特性将1种或2种以上混合、适当分别使用。
对于由“浆料制造工序”中得到的浆料将挥发性溶剂去除/干燥而得到粉末固体化妆品的方法没有特别限定，可以使用公知的方法。可列举出例如通过注射填充等将浆料填充到金属、树脂制的中皿等容器内、将所填充的浆料中的挥发溶剂利用吸引压制成型等去除，然后适当利用干燥机干燥、而得到粉末固体化妆品的方法(“湿式制法”)；利用机械剪切力将浆料进行微细液滴化、对该微细液滴吹送干燥气体进行干燥、对所得到的干燥粉末进行通常的干式成型而得到粉末固体化妆品的方法(以下本说明书中为了方便有时将该制法称为“W&D制法”)。利用W&D制法得到的粉末固体化妆品，发挥与湿式制法同等或更优异的使用触感、并且也兼具作为干式成型的优点的良好的使用性(对粉扑的采取状况)。W&D制法的详细内容例如记载于日本特开2007-55990号公报等。
作为本发明的粉末固体化妆品的产品形态，能够采用粉末化妆品的范畴的所有产品形态。具体而言，可以采用粉底、眼影、腮红、爽身粉、香水粉、婴儿爽身粉、粉饼、除臭粉、香粉等产品形态。
实施例
以下列举出实施例对本发明进行更具体说明，但是本发明不被它们任何限定。配合量只要没有特别记载则以相对于配合该成分的体系的质量％表示。在对各实施例进行具体说明之前对所采用的评价方法进行说明。
＜分散性＞
肉眼确认所制造的粉末固体化妆品中的聚集的有无。
A：完全没有观察到聚集。
B：稍微观察到聚集。
C：聚集显著、为不能耐受使用的水平。
＜耐冲击性＞
将粉末固体化妆品装入到化妆品用的粉盒容器中，在使化妆品表面朝下的状态下从50cm的高度落下至金属板上，调查直至化妆品发生破裂的次数。对于各化妆品，直至破碎为止的落下次数作为耐冲击性评价。耐受7次以上的落下的情况判断为耐冲击性良好。
＜使用性＞
10名专门小组成员将所制造的粉末固体化妆品涂布到面部，对涂布时的涂匀的简单性、光滑度进行评价。
A：10名小组成员中有8名以上回答使用性良好。
B：10名小组成员中有5名以上且少于8名回答使用性良好。
D：10名小组成员中少于5名回答使用性良好。
＜实施例1和比较例1及2＞
以下的表1中记载的实施例1和比较例1及2的粉末固体化妆品利用W&D制法制造。具体而言，将表1的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分和其他成分混合、利用分散混合器混合到该混合物的2倍量的水后、使用填充有2mmφ的氧化锆珠的介质搅拌磨(砂磨机)，进行破碎/粉碎/分散。接着对所得到的浆料使用搅拌干燥装置(旋转闪蒸干燥器、APV NordicAnhyro公司制)边以微小液滴的状态吹送干燥气体边进行干燥，得到干燥粉末。
将所得到的干燥粉末填充到树脂制的中皿容器、利用公知的方法进行干式压制成型、得到固体状的粉末化妆品。
＜比较例3＞
以下的表1中记载的比较例3的粉末固体化妆品利用干式制法制造。具体而言，将表1的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分和其他成分利用亨舍尔混合机混合、利用粉磨机破碎后，填充到树脂制的中皿容器，利用公知的方法进行干式压制成型，从而得到粉末固体化妆品。
对于所得到的粉末固体化妆品，评价上述项目。评价结果汇总示于表1。
[表1]
*1 Satinier M5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)
*2 KSG-16(信越化学工业株式会社)
如表1所示那样，即使高配合符合(A)非弹性球状粉末的成分的情况下，添加符合(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物的成分、并且通过包括浆料制造工序的W&D制法制造，由此对于分散性、耐冲击性、使用性全部得到充分的评价结果(实施例1)。
另一方面，(A)成分或(B)成分中的任意一者欠缺的情况下，在任意一项中成为低的评价结果(比较例1、2)。特别是不含有符合(A)非弹性球状粉末的成分的情况下，分散性不充分(比较例2)，因此确认了(A)成分也对分散性有贡献。
另外，具有与实施例1相同的组成的化妆品通过不包括浆料制造工序的干式制法制造的情况下，成为分散性、耐冲击性不充分的结果(比较例3)。由此确认了需要将(A)成分和(B)成分在浆料中搅拌/混合。
＜实施例2＞
以下的表2中记载的实施例2的粉末固体化妆品利用湿式制法制造。具体而言，将表2的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分和其他成分混合、利用分散混合器混合到与该混合物等量的水后、使用填充有2mmφ的氧化锆珠的介质搅拌磨(砂磨机)，进行破碎/粉碎/分散，而得到浆料。将该浆料填充到树脂制的中皿容器、利用真空吸引而去除溶剂、得到粉末固体化妆品。
＜实施例3～6及比较例4＞
以下的表2中记载的配方的粉末固体化妆品利用W&D制法制造。具体而言，将表2的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分和其他成分混合、利用分散混合器混合到该混合物的2倍量的水后、使用填充有2mmφ的氧化锆珠的介质搅拌磨(砂磨机)，进行破碎/粉碎/分散。接着对所得到的浆料使用搅拌干燥装置(旋转闪蒸干燥器、APV Nordic Anhyro公司制)边以微小液滴的状态吹送干燥气体边进行干燥，得到干燥粉末。
将所得到的干燥粉末填充到树脂制的中皿容器、利用公知的方法进行干式压制成型、得到固体状的粉末化妆品。
对于所得到的粉末固体化妆品，评价上述项目。评价结果汇总示于表2。
[表2]
*1 Satinier M5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)
*2 KSG-16(信越化学工业株式会社)
*3 KSG-18A(信越化学工业株式会社)
*4 KSG-210(信越化学工业株式会社)
*5 KSG-360Z(信越化学工业株式会社)
*6 COSMOL 182V(The Nisshin OilliO Group,Ltd.)
如表2所示那样，通过含有符合(A)成分及(B)成分的成分、并且利用包括浆料制造工序的湿式制法或W&D制法制造，对于分散性、耐冲击性、使用性全部得到充分的评价结果(实施例2～6)。其中，作为(B)成分，使用聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的聚二甲基硅氧烷溶胀物的情况下，得到特别高的分散性和使用性(实施例2及3)。
另一方面，替代(B)成分，配合作为胶凝剂广泛使用的糊精棕榈酸酯时，分散性、耐冲击性、使用性全部成为不充分的结果(比较例4)。
＜实施例7～8及比较例5～6＞
以下的表3中记载的配方的粉末固体化妆品利用W&D制法制造。具体而言，将表3的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分和其他成分混合、利用分散混合器混合到该混合物的2倍量的水后、使用填充有2mmφ的氧化锆珠的介质搅拌磨(砂磨机)，进行破碎/粉碎/分散。接着对所得到的浆料使用搅拌干燥装置(旋转闪蒸干燥器、APV Nordic Anhyro公司制)边以微小液滴的状态吹送干燥气体边进行干燥，得到干燥粉末。
将所得到的干燥粉末填充到树脂制的中皿容器、利用公知的方法进行干式压制成型、得到固体状的粉末化妆品。
对于所得到的粉末固体化妆品，评价上述项目。评价结果汇总示于表3。
[表3]
*1 Satinier M5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)
*2 KSG-16(信越化学工业株式会社)
*6 COSMOL 182V(The Nisshin OilliO Group,Ltd.)
如表3所示那样，若(A)成分的配合量过少则不能达成充分的分散性和使用性(比较例5、6)，以成为粉末固体化妆品的6质量％以上的方式配合(A)成分的情况下，在全部评价中得到优异的结果(实施例7、8)。另外确认了，与(A)成分在全部粉末中所占的比率低的情况(实施例7)相比，(A)成分占全部粉末的10质量％以上的情况(实施例8)下，得到特别高的效果。
Claims (4)
1.一种粉末固体化妆品的制造方法，其具备将粉末成分和作为粘合剂的油性成分在挥发性溶剂中混合而形成浆料的浆料制造工序，
所述粉末成分含有球状粉末，该球状粉末含有(A)每一颗粒的压坏强度为30MPa以上的非弹性球状粉末，
所述油性成分含有(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物，
所述(A)非弹性球状粉末占粉末固体化妆品的6～25质量％，
(A)非弹性球状粉末占所述粉末成分中含有的球状粉末的90质量％以上。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制造方法，其中，(A)非弹性球状粉末选自球状二氧化硅、球状氧化铝、球状二氧化钛、球状碳酸钙。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的制造方法，其中，(B)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物为将聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物利用液态硅油溶胀而成的。
4.根据权利要求3所述的制造方法，其中，液态硅油为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1329485A1 (en) * | 2000-08-31 | 2003-07-23 | Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. | Novel complex powder and cosmetics containing the same |
| EP2233126A1 (en) * | 2007-12-19 | 2010-09-29 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Process for producing powdery cosmetic preparation |
| JP2010235485A (ja) * | 2009-03-31 | 2010-10-21 | Kose Corp | 粉末固形化粧料 |
| JP2013227282A (ja) * | 2012-03-30 | 2013-11-07 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
| JP2014094878A (ja) * | 2012-10-11 | 2014-05-22 | Mizushima Ferroalloy Co Ltd | 放熱性に優れる高吸油性窒化ホウ素粉末および化粧料 |
| WO2018084176A1 (ja) * | 2016-11-04 | 2018-05-11 | 株式会社コーセー | 固形粉末化粧料 |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP4833452B2 (ja) | 2001-08-10 | 2011-12-07 | パナソニック電工株式会社 | 床用配線器具 |
| JP3671013B2 (ja) | 2002-03-07 | 2005-07-13 | 株式会社資生堂 | 複合粉末、それを配合したメークアップ化粧料、及び複合粉末の製造方法 |
| JP2005272427A (ja) | 2004-03-26 | 2005-10-06 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
| JP4786172B2 (ja) | 2004-12-20 | 2011-10-05 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 固型粉末化粧料 |
| JP5422092B2 (ja) | 2005-07-29 | 2014-02-19 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 粉末化粧料の製造方法 |
| JP6945809B2 (ja) * | 2017-04-03 | 2021-10-06 | 日本メナード化粧品株式会社 | 固形粉末化粧料 |
-
2020
- 2020-12-18 US US17/788,213 patent/US20230052859A1/en active Pending
- 2020-12-18 JP JP2021567397A patent/JPWO2021132083A1/ja active Pending
- 2020-12-18 WO PCT/JP2020/047453 patent/WO2021132083A1/ja unknown
- 2020-12-18 EP EP20908146.2A patent/EP4082619A4/en active Pending
- 2020-12-18 CN CN202080089439.XA patent/CN114845690A/zh active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1329485A1 (en) * | 2000-08-31 | 2003-07-23 | Miyoshi Kasei Co., Ltd. | Novel complex powder and cosmetics containing the same |
| EP2233126A1 (en) * | 2007-12-19 | 2010-09-29 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Process for producing powdery cosmetic preparation |
| JP2010235485A (ja) * | 2009-03-31 | 2010-10-21 | Kose Corp | 粉末固形化粧料 |
| JP2013227282A (ja) * | 2012-03-30 | 2013-11-07 | Kose Corp | 固形粉末化粧料 |
| JP2014094878A (ja) * | 2012-10-11 | 2014-05-22 | Mizushima Ferroalloy Co Ltd | 放熱性に優れる高吸油性窒化ホウ素粉末および化粧料 |
| WO2018084176A1 (ja) * | 2016-11-04 | 2018-05-11 | 株式会社コーセー | 固形粉末化粧料 |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPWO2021132083A1 (zh) | 2021-07-01 |
| WO2021132083A1 (ja) | 2021-07-01 |
| EP4082619A1 (en) | 2022-11-02 |
| US20230052859A1 (en) | 2023-02-16 |
| EP4082619A4 (en) | 2024-01-24 |
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