CN114845685A - 粉末固体化妆品 - Google Patents
粉末固体化妆品 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114845685A CN114845685A CN202080089416.9A CN202080089416A CN114845685A CN 114845685 A CN114845685 A CN 114845685A CN 202080089416 A CN202080089416 A CN 202080089416A CN 114845685 A CN114845685 A CN 114845685A
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- powder
- mass
- powdery solid
- solid cosmetic
- cosmetic
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于，提供具有与配合了弹性球状粉末时同等程度的使用性、且粉末的分散性优异、具备高耐冲击性的粉末固体化妆品。本发明的粉末固体化妆品包含：(A)每一个颗粒的抗碎强度为30MPa以上的非弹性球状粉末；(B)1～15质量％的氧化铁；(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物；和，(D)HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂，(A)非弹性球状粉末占化妆品中所含的全部球状粉末的90质量％以上。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及粉末固体化妆品。更详细而言，涉及：即使实质上不配合弹性球状粉末也能够实现优异的使用性、而且粉末的分散性优异、具备高耐冲击性的粉末固体化妆品。
背景技术
粉末固体化妆品是粉底、眼影等中常用的化妆品基剂。通常粉末固体化妆品由作为主成分的粉末和作为其结合剂或附着剂发挥作用的油分构成。由于粉末部分为化妆品的主要基材，因此对肌肤上的延展、顺滑度、均匀的上妆等使用性产生很大影响。其中，球状粉末通过在皮肤上滚动而改善滑动性，在实现延展性轻、干爽的上妆感方面具有重要的作用。
作为球状粉末，特别是为了改善触感的顺滑度、柔软性，大多使用聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯(PMMA)、尼龙、氨基甲酸酯等合成树脂。
然而，这些当中，柔软性相对较高的弹性球状粉末由于为球状，因此与其它粉末的接触面变小，而且由于其弹力性而难以固化、成型性差。因此，即使能对粉末固体化妆品赋予优异的使用性，也难以同时实现充足的耐冲击性。
已经进行了用于改善包含弹性球状粉末的粉末固体化妆品的耐冲击性的尝试，例如提出了：作为结合剂，使用在气体中利用蒸发法经细颗粒化而成的固体油粉末(专利文献1)、配合球状聚烯烃树脂粉末(专利文献2)、使用特定结构的旋转叶片对置型混合装置(专利文献3)等。然而，除了受到必须使用特定的原料、特定的装置之类的限制之外，也期待进一步改善耐冲击性。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开2005-272427号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2006-169207号公报
专利文献3：日本特开2009-167181号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明是鉴于前述情况而完成的，其目的在于，提供具有与配合了弹性球状粉末时同等程度的使用性、且粉末的分散性优异、具备高耐冲击性的粉末固体化妆品。
用于解决问题的方案
本发明人为了解决上述课题而进行了深入研究，结果发现：通过配合规定的非弹性球状粉末、氧化铁、凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物、和HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂，从而粉末固体化妆品中可以同时实现优异的使用性、分散性、耐冲击性，至此完成了本发明。
即，本发明的主旨在于，一种粉末固体化妆品，其包含：
(A)每一个颗粒的抗碎强度为30MPa以上的非弹性球状粉末；
(B)1～15质量％的氧化铁；
(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物；和，
(D)HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂，
(A)非弹性球状粉末占化妆品中所含的全部球状粉末的90质量％以上。
通常，已知如果大量地配合(A)非弹性球状粉末，则与配合了弹性球状粉末时相比，虽然耐冲击性改善，但是粗糙的触感明显，使用性差。
另外，如果将作为高粘性流体的(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物加入到粉末中，则虽然可见使用性的改善，但是粉末会聚集，有变得难以均匀分散的倾向。特别是，如果并用(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物与弹性球状粉末，则存在产生化妆品中确认到颜色深的部分、浅的部分等填充不均、或耐冲击性大幅受损的情况。因此，预计即使在将(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物与非弹性球状粉末并用的情况下，粉末的聚集也不可避免。
因而，通过使用每一个颗粒的抗碎强度为30MPa以上的粉末作为与(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物组合的非弹性球状粉末，进而，添加(D)HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂，从而令人惊奇的是，非弹性球状粉末大幅改善包含(B)氧化铁在内的粉末的分散性，由此不会产生粉末的聚集，而且无干燥感，可以实现光滑且有延展的使用性。
发明的效果
本发明即使不配合现有粉末固体化妆品中常用的弹性球状粉末，也能够实现具有充足的使用性、而且粉末的均匀分散性和耐冲击性也优异的粉末固体化妆品。
具体实施方式
本发明的粉末固体化妆品包含：(A)非弹性球状粉末、(B)氧化铁、(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物、和(D)非离子性表面活性剂。以下，详细地进行说明。
＜(A)非弹性球状粉末＞
本发明中使用的(A)非弹性球状粉末只要每一个颗粒的抗碎强度为30MPa以上、优选35MPa以上、更优选40MPa以上即可，可以使用无机球状粉末、有机球状粉末，均可。本发明中的每一个颗粒的抗碎强度是如下值：使用岛津制作所制微小压缩试验机MCT-211，对试样一个颗粒以恒定的增加比例施加负荷力，算出颗粒破坏的时刻时的强度。抗碎强度如果低于30MPa，则柔软性过高，难以具有充分的成型强度，另外，无法充分改善粉末的分散性。
(A)非弹性球状粉末的平均粒径为1～30μm的范围、优选3～20μm的范围、更优选5～15μm的范围。平均粒径如果低于1μm，则失去涂布化妆品时的顺滑度，如果超过30μm，则有产生发涩感、凹凸不平的异物感的倾向。
(A)非弹性球状粉末的形状必须为球状，但无需严格为圆球状，例如，也可以为截面为椭圆形的球状。在更光滑、得到优选的触感的方面，优选为圆球状。
作为(A)非弹性球状粉末，例如可以举出球状二氧化硅、球状氧化铝、球状二氧化钛、球状碳酸钙等。从使用性的方面出发，特别优选球状二氧化硅，进一步优选多孔的二氧化硅颗粒。进而，非弹性球状粉末可以进行表面处理。表面处理例如可列举出有机硅化合物处理、氟改性有机硅化合物处理、氟化合物处理、高级脂肪酸处理、高级醇处理、脂肪酸酯处理、金属皂处理、氨基酸处理、烷基磷酸酯处理等。
(A)非弹性球状粉末可以使用市售品。例如可以举出Satinier M-5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)、Sunsphere L-51(AGC SI-TECH COMPANY,LTD.)等。
本发明中的(A)非弹性球状粉末的配合量相对于粉末固体化妆品整体，为6～25质量％、优选8～20质量％、更优选10～15质量％。配合量如果低于6质量％，则使用性差，粉末的分散性受损，有时产生聚集。另外，即使配合超过25质量％，也有得不到与配合量相匹配的使用性、成型性、耐冲击性的倾向。
(A)非弹性球状粉末必须占化妆品中所含的全部球状粉末的90质量％以上，优选占95质量％以上、更优选占99质量％以上。球状粉末整体中的(A)非弹性球状粉末的比例如果低于90质量％，则粉末的分散性受损，有时产生聚集。
此处，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中能包含的(A)非弹性球状粉末以外的“球状粉末”是包括弹性且球状的所有粉末在内的概念，例如可以举出有机硅弹性体粉末、有机硅粉末、覆有机硅树脂的有机硅弹性体粉末、聚酰胺树脂粉末(尼龙粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯与丙烯酸的共聚物树脂粉末、苯并胍胺树脂粉末、聚氨酯树脂粉末等。
然而，本发明的粉末固体化妆品从成型性和耐冲击性的观点出发，无论为球状还是非球状，均优选不含弹性粉末。
需要说明的是，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中所含的全部球状粉末(包括弹性和非弹性)相对于粉末固体化妆品整体，为1～30质量％、更优选5～25质量％、进一步优选5～15质量％。球状粉末的配合量如果低于1质量％，则得不到充分的使用性，如果配合超过30质量％，则有成型性、耐冲击性差的倾向。
另外，为了进一步改善使用性、成型性，(A)非弹性球状粉末优选占化妆品中所含的全部粉末的5质量％以上、进一步优选占6质量％以上或者7质量％以上、特别优选占10质量％以上。另一方面，(A)非弹性球状粉末优选为化妆品中所含的全部粉末的30质量％以下、更优选为25质量％以下，进一步优选为20质量％以下。即使增多粉末整体中的(A)非弹性球状粉末的比例，也有得不到与配合量相匹配的使用性、成型性、耐冲击性的倾向。
＜(B)氧化铁＞
本发明中使用的(B)氧化铁为通常被广泛用于化妆品的黄氧化铁、红氧化铁、黑氧化铁等颜料级氧化铁或对它们表面进行疏水化处理而成者。
(B)氧化铁的平均粒径优选100～500nm，其中特别优选200nm以上。
作为对(B)氧化铁进行疏水化处理时的疏水化处理剂，具体而言，可以举出烷基改性有机硅、烷基三乙氧基硅烷、烷基三甲氧基硅烷、全氟烷基磷酸、(丙烯酸烷基酯/二甲基有机硅)共聚物、糊精棕榈酸酯、三乙氧基甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧乙基己基聚二甲基硅氧烷、单甲基聚硅氧烷、二甲基聚硅氧烷、高分子有机硅、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠/甲基丙烯酰胺月桂酸共聚物等。
(B)氧化铁的配合量相对于粉末固体化妆品整体，为1～15质量％、更优选1～7质量％。低于1质量％时，虽然没有分散性的问题，但是有时得不到充分的化妆效果，如果配合15质量％以上，则分散性受损，有时产生填充不均。
＜(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物＞
本发明中使用的(C)成分是用包含液态硅油的溶剂对于将有机聚硅氧烷进行交联结合而得到的聚合物溶胀为凝胶状而成者。
作为构成(C)成分的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物，例如可以举出聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基乙烯基聚二甲硅氧烷交联聚合物等部分交联型甲基聚硅氧烷；PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物、PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物等部分交联型烷基·聚醚共改性有机硅；聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3交联聚合物等部分交联型聚甘油改性有机硅等，它们可以使用1种或组合2种以上而使用。这些之中，特别优选聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物。
作为构成(C)成分的溶剂即液态硅油的具体例，可以举出聚二甲基硅氧烷、环五硅氧烷、甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷等挥发性环状有机硅系油分、挥发性直链状有机硅系油分，这些之中，特别优选聚二甲基硅氧烷。
(C)成分中的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物的含量优选10～30质量％、更优选15～25质量％。
(C)成分可以使用市售品，例如可以举出KSG-16(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷6cs的混合物且交联物为20～30％)、KSG-19(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷6cs的混合物且交联物为10～20％)、KSG-310(PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、液体石蜡的混合物且交联物为25～35％)、KSG-710(聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3交联聚合物、二甲基聚硅氧烷的混合物且交联物为20～30％)、KSG-18A(聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基乙烯基聚二甲硅氧烷交联聚合物、二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷的混合物且交联物为10～20％)、KSG-210(聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物且交联物为20～30％)、KSG-360Z(PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物且交联物为30～40％)(以上，信越化学工业株式会社)等。
(C)成分的配合量相对于粉末固体化妆品整体，为1～15质量％、优选2～10质量％、更优选3～7质量％。配合量如果低于1质量％，则使用性有时差，如果配合超过15质量％，则有时失去涂布时的均匀性。
(D)HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂
(D)成分是HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂。HLB由下述式所示的川上式算出。
HLB＝7+11.7·log(MW/MO)
(其中，MW表示亲水基部的分子量，MO表示亲油基部的分子量)
HLB超过10时，粉末的均匀分散变难。HLB优选2～10的范围、进一步优选3～6的范围。
作为HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂，只要为通常化妆品中使用者就没有特别限制，例如可以举出聚氧乙烯硬脂酸酯、自乳化型单硬脂酸丙二醇酯、肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯、自乳化型单硬脂酸甘油酯、单异硬脂酸甘油酯、单油酸甘油酯、三硬脂酸六甘油酯、五硬脂酸十甘油酯、五异硬脂酸十甘油酯、五油酸十甘油酯、山梨坦硬脂酸酯、山梨坦三硬脂酸酯、山梨坦单异硬脂酸酯、山梨坦倍半异硬脂酸酯、山梨坦单油酸酯、山梨醇聚醚-6六硬脂酸酯、蓖麻油POE(3)酯、PEG(2)单硬脂酸酯、乙二醇单硬脂酸酯、PEG(2)硬脂酸酯等。本发明的化妆品中，可以配合1种或组合2种以上配合这些非离子性表面活性剂。
作为(D)非离子性表面活性剂的市售品，可以举出Cosmol 182V(山梨坦倍半异硬脂酸酯；The Nisshin OilliO Group,Ltd.,)、NIKKOL SS-10V(山梨坦硬脂酸酯)。
(D)非离子性表面活性剂的配合量相对于本发明的粉末固体化妆品整体为0.01～5质量％。优选0.1～1质量％。低于0.01质量％时，有时难以实现充分的分散性，如果配合超过5质量％，则在使用性上有时产生发粘。
＜任意配合成分＞
本发明的化妆品中，除上述(A)～(D)成分以外，在不妨碍本发明的效果的范围内，可以配合化妆品中通常使用的成分。
例如可以根据需要适宜配合上述以外的粉末成分、油性成分、紫外线防御剂等。
作为上述以外的粉末成分，只要可以用于通常的化妆品中就没有特别限定，例如可以举出：滑石、高岭土、丝云母(绢云母)、白云母、金云母、合成云母、合成氟金云母、红云母、黑云母、焙烧滑石、焙烧绢云母、焙烧白云母、焙烧金云母、蛭石、碳酸镁、碳酸钙、硅酸铝、硅酸钡、硅酸钙、硅酸镁、硅酸锶、钨酸金属盐、镁、二氧化硅、沸石、硫酸钡、焙烧硫酸钙(煅烧石膏)、磷酸钙、氟磷灰石、羟基磷灰石、陶瓷粉、金属皂(例如肉豆蔻酸锌、棕榈酸钙、硬脂酸铝等)、光敏性氧化钛(烧结了氧化铁的二氧化钛)、还原锌华；有机粉末(例如有机硅弹性体粉末、有机硅粉末、覆有机硅树脂的有机硅弹性体粉末、聚酰胺树脂粉末(尼龙粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯与丙烯酸的共聚物树脂粉末、苯并胍胺树脂粉末、聚四氟化乙烯粉末等)；无机白色系颜料(例如二氧化钛、氧化锌等)；无机红色系颜料(例如钛酸铁等)；无机黄色系颜料(例如黄土等)；无机黑色系颜料(例如低价氧化钛等)；无机紫色系颜料(例如芒果紫、钴紫等)；无机绿色系颜料(例如氧化铬、氢氧化铬、钛酸钴等)；无机蓝色系颜料(例如群青、普鲁士蓝等)；珠光颜料(例如氯氧化铋、鱼鳞箔、云母钛、覆氧化铁云母钛、覆低价氧化钛云母钛、具有光敏性的云母钛、使用滑石、玻璃、合成氟金云母、二氧化硅、氯氧化铋等代替云母作为基板而成者、作为覆盖物除氧化钛以外还覆盖低价性氧化钛、着色氧化钛、氧化铁、氧化铝、二氧化硅、氧化锆、氧化锌、氧化钴、铝等而成者、作为功能性珠光颜料在珠光颜料表面覆盖树脂颗粒而成者(日本特开平11-92688)、在珠光颜料表面覆盖氢氧化铝颗粒而成者(日本特开2002-146238)、在珠光颜料表面覆盖氧化锌颗粒而成者(日本特开2003-261421)、在珠光颜料表面覆盖硫酸钡颗粒而成者(日本特愿2003-61229)等)；金属粉末颜料(例如铝粉、铜粉等)；锆、钡或铝色淀等有机颜料(例如红色201号、红色202号、红色204号、红色205号、红色220号、红色226号、红色228号、红色405号、橙色203号、橙色204号、黄色205号、黄色401号、和蓝色404号、红色3号、红色104号、红色106号、红色227号、红色230号、红色401号、红色505号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、绿色3号和蓝色1号等)；天然色素(例如叶绿素、β-胡萝卜素等)等。
作为油性成分，只要可以用于通常的化妆品中就没有特别限定，可列举出液体油脂、固体油脂、蜡类、烃油、高级脂肪酸、高级醇、合成酯油、硅油等。
以下的说明中，POE为聚氧乙烯的简写、POP为聚氧丙烯的简写，POE或POP之后的括号内的数字表示该化合物中的POE基或POP基的平均加成摩尔数。
作为液体油脂，例如可列举出鳄梨油、山茶油、海龟油、澳洲坚果油、玉米油、貂油、橄榄油、菜籽油、蛋黄油、芝麻油、桃仁油、小麦胚芽油、山茶花油、蓖麻油、亚麻仁油、红花油、棉籽油、紫苏油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、榧子油、米糠油、泡桐油、日本桐油、霍霍巴油、胚芽油、三聚甘油等。
作为固体油脂，例如可列举出可可脂、椰油、马油、氢化椰油、棕榈油、牛脂、羊脂、氢化牛脂、棕榈仁油、猪油、牛骨脂、木蜡仁油、氢化油、牛腿油、木蜡、氢化蓖麻油等。
作为蜡类，例如可列举出蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、棉蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、杨梅蜡、虫蜡、鲸蜡、褐煤蜡、米糠蜡、羊毛脂、木棉蜡、乙酰化羊毛脂、羊毛脂油、甘蔗蜡、羊毛脂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、氢化羊毛脂、霍霍巴蜡、硬质羊毛脂、虫胶蜡、羊毛脂醇POE醚、羊毛脂醇POE醚乙酸酯、POE胆甾醇醚、聚乙二醇羊毛脂酸酯、POE氢化羊毛脂醇醚等。
作为烃油，例如可列举出液体石蜡、地蜡、角鲨烷、姥鲛烷、石蜡、纯地蜡、角鲨烯、凡士林、微晶蜡等。
作为高级脂肪酸，例如可列举出月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸、油酸、十一烯酸、妥尔油酸、异硬脂酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸、二十碳五烯酸(EPA)、二十二碳六烯酸(DHA)等。
作为高级醇，例如可列举出直链醇(例如月桂醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、肉豆蔻醇、油醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇等)；支链醇(例如单硬脂基甘油醚(鲨肝醇)、2-癸基十四烷醇、羊毛脂醇、胆甾醇、植物甾醇、己基十二烷醇、异硬脂醇、辛基十二烷醇等)等。
作为合成酯油，可列举出肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸十六烷基酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸酯、乳酸十六烷基酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乙酰化羊毛脂、硬脂酸异十六烷基酯、异硬脂酸异十六烷基酯、胆甾醇12-羟基硬脂酸酯、双(2-乙基己酸)乙二醇酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、单异硬脂酸N-烷基二醇酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯、甘油二(庚基十一烷酸)酯、三羟甲基丙烷三(2-乙基己酸)酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、季戊四醇四(2-乙基己酸)酯、甘油三(2-乙基己酸)酯、甘油三辛酸酯、甘油三异棕榈酸酯、2-乙基己酸十六烷基酯、2-乙基己基棕榈酸酯、甘油三(肉豆蔻酸)酯、甘油三(2-庚基十一烷酸)酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、油酸油酯、乙酰甘油酯、2-庚基十一烷基棕榈酸酯、己二酸二异丁酯、N-月桂酰-L-谷氨酸-2-辛基十二烷基酯、己二酸二(2-十一烷基庚基)酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二(2-乙基己基)酯、肉豆蔻酸2-乙基癸酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、柠檬酸三乙酯等。
作为硅油，可列举出二甲基聚硅氧烷、聚甲基氢硅氧烷、聚甲基苯基硅氧烷、硬脂氧基甲基聚硅氧烷、聚醚改性聚有机硅氧烷、氟烷基·聚氧亚烷基改性聚有机硅氧烷、烷基改性聚有机硅氧烷、末端未改性聚有机硅氧烷、氟共改性聚有机硅氧烷、氨基改性聚有机硅氧烷、硅胶、丙烯酸有机硅、三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸、有机硅RTV橡胶等有机硅化合物等。
作为紫外线防御剂(紫外线吸收剂和/或紫外线散射剂)，可以使用化妆品中通常配合的物质。
紫外线吸收剂没有特别限定，可以广泛列举出通常用于化妆品的紫外线吸收剂。例如可列举出苯甲酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如，对氨基苯甲酸(以下简称为PABA)、PABA单甘油酯、N,N-二丙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二乙氧基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA乙酯、N,N-二甲基PABA丁酯等)；氨茴酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如，高孟基-N-乙酰邻氨基苯甲酸酯等)；水杨酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如，水杨酸戊酯、水杨酸薄荷酯、胡莫柳酯、水杨酸辛酯、水杨酸苯基酯、水杨酸苄基酯、对异丙醇苯基水杨酸酯等)；肉桂酸系紫外线吸收剂(例如，辛基甲氧基肉桂酸酯、乙基-4-异丙基肉桂酸酯、甲基-2,5-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、乙基-2,4-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、甲基-2,4-二异丙基肉桂酸酯、丙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、异丙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、异戊基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、辛基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯(2-乙基己基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯)、2-乙氧基乙基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、环己基-对甲氧基肉桂酸酯、乙基-α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸酯、2-乙基己基-α-氰基-β-苯基肉桂酸酯、甘油单-2-乙基己酰基-二对甲氧基肉桂酸酯等)；二苯甲酮系紫外线吸收剂(例如，2,4-二羟基二苯甲酮、2,2’-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2’-二羟基-4,4’-二甲氧基二苯甲酮、2,2’,4,4’-四羟基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基-4’-甲基二苯甲酮、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮-5-磺酸盐、4-苯基二苯甲酮、2-乙基己基-4’-苯基-二苯甲酮-2-甲酸酯、2-羟基-4-正辛氧基二苯甲酮、4-羟基-3-羧基二苯甲酮等)；3-(4’-甲基亚苄基)-d,l-樟脑、3-亚苄基-d,l-樟脑；2-苯基-5-甲基苯并噁唑；2,2’-羟基-5-甲基苯基苯并三唑；2-(2’-羟基-5’-叔辛基苯基)苯并三唑；2-(2’-羟基-5’-甲基苯基苯并三唑；二苯并嗪；二茴香酰基甲烷；4-甲氧基-4’-叔丁基二苯甲酰甲烷；5-(3,3-二甲基-2-亚降冰片基)-3-戊烷-2-酮、二吗啉基哒嗪酮；2-乙基己基-2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸酯；2,4-双-{[4-(2-乙基己基氧基)-2-羟基]-苯基}-6-(4-甲氧基苯基)-(1,3,5)-三嗪等。
紫外线散射剂没有特别限定，作为具体例，可以列举出细颗粒状的金属氧化物、例如氧化锌、氧化钛、氧化铈、氧化钨等。
紫外线散射剂可以是未经表面处理者或经各种疏水化表面处理者。作为表面处理剂，可以使用化妆品领域中通用的表面处理剂、例如聚二甲基硅氧烷、烷基改性有机硅等有机硅；辛基三乙氧基硅烷等烷氧基硅烷；糊精棕榈酸酯等糊精脂肪酸酯；硬脂酸等脂肪酸。
另外，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中，在实现本发明的目的的范围内也可以适宜配合pH调节剂、保湿剂、增稠剂、分散剂、稳定化剂、着色剂、防腐剂、抗氧化剂、香料等。
需要说明的是，本发明的粉末固体化妆品中，可以配合通常化妆品中配合的多元醇，但有附着性减小的倾向，因此，在配合时，相对于粉末固体化妆品整体，优选保持在1质量％以下，更优选完全不配合(0质量％)。作为多元醇的代表例，可以举出一缩二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、异戊二醇、1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、聚乙二醇、甘油、二甘油、山梨糖醇、麦芽糖醇、棉子糖等。
＜制造方法＞
本发明的粉末固体化妆品的制造方法没有特别限定，可以使用公知的方法。例如可以使用如下方法：在不使用溶剂的情况下将粉末成分和油性成分混合，填充于容器中进行成型的“干式制法”；将粉末成分和油性成分添加至挥发性分散介质中进行浆料化，在浆料的状态下填充于容器中并去除溶剂以进行固体化的“湿式制法”；通过机械剪切力将浆料进行微细液滴化，向微细液滴吹送干燥气体进行干燥，对得到的干燥粉末进行通常的干式成型的制法(以下，在本说明书中，为了方便有时将该制法称为“W&D制法”)。W&D制法的详情记载于例如日本特开2007-55990号公报等中。通过W&D制法，可以期待进一步改善蓬松度、顺滑度、贴合感等使用性。
作为湿式制法、W&D制法中制备浆料时使用的溶剂，没有特别限制，可列举出纯化水、环状有机硅、轻质液体异链烷烃、低级醇、醚类、LPG、氟代烃、N-甲基吡咯烷酮、氟醇、挥发性直链状有机硅等。作为低级醇的代表性物质，可列举出乙醇、异丙醇等。可以根据所使用的配合成分的特性，将这些溶剂混合1种或2种以上并适宜区分使用。
作为本发明的粉末固体化妆品的制品形态，可以采用粉末化妆品的范畴的所有制品形态。具体而言，可以制成粉底、眼影、腮红、身体粉、香水粉、婴儿爽身粉、粉饼、祛臭粉、白粉等的制品形态。
实施例
以下列举实施例对本发明进行进一步详述，但本发明不受这些任何限定。只要没有特别声明，则用相对于配合有该成分的体系的质量％来表示配合量。在对各实施例进行具体说明之前，对采用的评价方法进行说明。
＜分散性＞
以目视确认制备好的粉末固体化妆品中的聚集的有无。
A：完全观察不到聚集。
B：稍观察到聚集。
C：聚集明显，是不耐于使用的水平。
＜耐冲击性＞
将粉末固体化妆品装入化妆品用的粉盒容器中，在使化妆品表面朝下的状态下从50cm高度掉落到金属板上，调查化妆品破裂所需的次数。对于各化妆品，将直至破损为止的落下次数作为耐冲击性的评价。将承受7次以上的落下的情况判断为耐冲击性良好。
＜使用性＞
将制得的粉末固体化妆品涂抹到10名专业评价小组成员的肌肤上，对涂抹时的延展的轻柔度、顺滑度进行评价。
A：评价小组成员10名中8名以上回答使用性良好。
B：评价小组成员10名中5名以上且低于8名回答使用性良好。
C：评价小组成员10名中低于5名回答使用性良好。
＜实施例1和比较例1～3＞
利用干式制法制备以下表1中记载的实施例1和比较例1～3的粉末固体化妆品。具体而言，利用亨舍尔混合机将表1的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分与其他成分进行混合后，利用粉碎机(Pulverizer)进行破碎后，将其填充于树脂制的中皿容器中，以公知的方法进行干式压制成型，得到粉末固体化妆品。
评价所得到的粉末固体化妆品的上述项目。将评价结果一并示于表1。
[表1]
*1SatinierM5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)
*2KSG-16(信越化学工业株式会社)
*3Cosmol 182V(The Nisshin OilliO Group,Ltd.,)
如表1所示那样，在配合(B)氧化铁、且大量配合了属于(A)非弹性球状粉末的成分的情况下，包含属于(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物的成分和属于(D)非离子性表面活性剂的成分时，可以得到分散性、耐冲击性、使用性全部均充分的评价结果(实施例1)。
另一方面，缺少(A)～(D)中的任一者的情况下，示出任一项目中均低的评价结果(比较例1～3)。特别是，不含属于(A)非弹性球状粉末的成分的情况下，分散性变得不充分(比较例3)，因此确认了(A)成分也有利于分散性。
＜实施例2～6和比较例4＞
利用W&D制法制备以下表2中记载的配方的粉末固体化妆品。具体而言，将表2的配方所示的粉末成分、油性成分与其他成分混合，且用分散混合器与该混合物的2倍量的水混合后，使用填充有2mmφ的氧化锆珠的介质搅拌磨(砂磨机)，进行破碎/粉碎/分散。接着，对得到的浆料边用搅拌干燥装置(旋转闪蒸干燥机、APV Nordic Anhyro公司制)在微小液滴的状态下吹送干燥气体边进行干燥，得到干燥粉末。
将得到的干燥粉末填充至树脂制的中皿容器，以公知的方法进行干式压制成型，得到固体状的粉末化妆品。
评价所得到的粉末固体化妆品的上述项目。将评价结果一并示于表2。
[表2]
*1SatinierM5(日挥触媒化成株式会社)
*2KSG-16(信越化学工业株式会社)
*3Cosmol 182V(The Nisshin OilliO Group,Ltd.,)
*4KSG-18A(信越化学工业株式会社)
*5KSG-210(信越化学工业株式会社)
*6KSG-360Z(信越化学工业株式会社)
如表2所示那样，包含属于(A)～(D)的成分全部的情况下，可以得到分散性、耐冲击性、使用性全部充分的评价结果(实施例2～6)。其中，使用聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的聚二甲基硅氧烷溶胀物作为(C)成分的情况下，得到了特别高的分散性和使用性(实施例2)。另外，与(A)成分在全部粉末中所占的比率低的情况(实施例6)相比，(A)成分占全部粉末的10质量％以上的情况(实施例2)确认了得到特别高的效果。
另一方面，配合了作为凝胶化剂广泛使用的糊精棕榈酸酯代替(C)成分，结果在分散性、耐冲击性、使用性全部方面成为不充分的结果(比较例4)。
Claims (5)
1.一种粉末固体化妆品，其包含：
(A)每一个颗粒的抗碎强度为30MPa以上的非弹性球状粉末；
(B)1～15质量％的氧化铁；
(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物；和，
(D)HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂，
(A)非弹性球状粉末占化妆品中所含的全部球状粉末的90质量％以上。
2.根据权利要求1所述的粉末固体化妆品，其中，(A)非弹性球状粉末选自球状二氧化硅、球状氧化铝、球状二氧化钛、球状碳酸钙。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的粉末固体化妆品，其中，(C)凝胶状的部分交联型有机聚硅氧烷聚合物是使聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物在液态硅油中溶胀而得到的。
4.根据权利要求3所述的粉末固体化妆品，其中，液态硅油为聚二甲基硅氧烷。
5.根据权利要求1～4中任一项所述的粉末固体化妆品，其中，(D)HLB为10以下的非离子性表面活性剂在化妆品总量中为0.01～5质量％。
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