CN114748399A - Plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114748399A
CN114748399A CN202210309701.8A CN202210309701A CN114748399A CN 114748399 A CN114748399 A CN 114748399A CN 202210309701 A CN202210309701 A CN 202210309701A CN 114748399 A CN114748399 A CN 114748399A
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parts
weight
oil palm
palm fruit
weighing
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宇文军利
黄金英
黄文宇
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Shenzhen Runbang Zhijia Biotechnology Co ltd
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Shenzhen Runbang Zhijia Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14Liposomes; Vesicles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/347Phenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Abstract

The invention discloses a plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the raw materials comprise the following raw materials in parts by weight: 70-85 parts of water, 0.3-0.5 part of thickening agent, 5-10 parts of oil palm fruit liposome, 2-5 parts of emollient, 0.1-0.5 part of chelating agent, 2-4 parts of emulsifier and 5-10 parts of acetylated resveratrol. The oil palm fruit liposome wraps the effective components in the nano microspheres well, so that the stability of the active components is ensured, and the oil palm fruit liposome is rich in a large amount of fatty acid and vitamin A, E, so that the oil palm fruit liposome can nourish the skin well and remove free radicals. The acetylated resveratrol is more stable and is not easy to decompose, and the excellent oxidation resistance of the acetylated resveratrol and the oil palm fruit liposome have synergistic effect, so that the prepared beauty cream has obvious anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects.

Description

Plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Anti-aging cosmetics have been of constant interest in the cosmetic manufacturing industry, and the focus on the problem of combating skin aging is also a concern. Delaying skin aging is a dream for many people, so the development and application of anti-aging products are an important subject of the cosmetic industry. Skin aging is usually cumulative from two factors: physiological aging and photoaging. Physiological aging is an extremely complex and unavoidable intrinsic process. Some of the reactions that occur during aging include: damage caused by free radicals, collagen destruction, slowed cellular metabolism, abnormal cell formation, decreased fat content, decreased intercellular substance, natural cell death, hormonal dyssecretion, hypoxia, etc. as a result, changes in the skin such as wrinkles, age spots, loss of elasticity, etc. occur. Photoaging is mainly the effect of the environment on the skin, including environmental aggressions, bad living habits, nutritional factors, sun damage, etc. The invasion of the environment is mainly caused by pollution, cold, wind and the like, bad living habits such as smoking and staying up all night and the lack of vitamins (A, E, C, F) or the rarity of other factors (copper, selenium and zinc) are also one of the causes of skin damage; yet another important cause of damage is that under sunlight exposure, ultraviolet rays from the sunlight penetrate the skin and promote the generation of free radicals, causing damage to the skin.
Physiological or photoaging in skin aging can occur in 3 levels: epidermal layer, epidermal-dermal junction layer, and dermal layer. Physiological aging is manifested by thinning of the epidermis, drying, loosening of the epidermis, lack of elasticity, and increased probability of wrinkle formation. Both physiological and photoaging show a weakening of the dermal-epidermal junction, loss of its deep-level supporting function and relaxation. The loosening of the epidermal-dermal junction results in an increased probability of wrinkle formation. It was observed that the adhesion at the interface of the epidermal layer and the dermal layer was decreased, and a barrier to water exchange between the epidermis and the dermis was observed. The dermis is mainly composed of fibroblasts and is responsible for synthesizing proteins (collagen and elastin), proteoglycans (hyaluronic acid), and the like. A structurally complex protein network tissue formed by proteoglycan colloids, collagen fibers, elastic fibers and other proteins are interwoven like fibers to form a tissue structure called extracellular matrix (ECM) in which new cells are produced. Wherein the collagen gives the skin strength and firmness, and the elastin gives the skin elastin polysaccharide (hyaluronic acid) to lock water molecules and form colloid, just like the water reservoir of the skin. Aging reduces the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the skin, thins the dermis, changes its structure, resulting in loss of length and elasticity, and weakens the skin and is more vulnerable to inflammation and free radical attack. The skin loses elasticity and is more vulnerable to allergy and radiation.
At present, researchers believe that the greatest changes in skin result from aging of the dermis layer and most importantly, the reason for aging of the dermis layer is found out. The normal function of the dermal layer results from the balance of (1) macromolecular connective tissue, such as hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin, and proteases that degrade such macromolecular connective tissue; (2) human neutral elastase, degenerated elastin; (3) a specific enzyme, known as Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMPS), degrades the extracellular matrix. The balance of these specific activity inhibitors of destructive enzymes, termed tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases, includes many physiological functions, recovery, cell adhesion, cell proliferation, differentiation of cells. In normal skin, there is a balance between the levels of degenerative enzymes such as elastase or matrix metalloproteinase and their inhibitors such as Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinase (TIMPS). I.e. synthesis is equivalent to degeneration. Inflammation, aging and ultraviolet rays disturb the balance between degrading enzymes and their inhibitors leading to excessive degradation of the extracellular matrix. Collagenase (one of MMPS) and elastase destroy collagen and elastin that maintain skin elasticity and firmness, and the structure of skin is also destroyed. The quantification and the keratinization of the extracellular matrix lead to the loss of firmness of the skin and the formation of wrinkles in the dermis, a process that gradually occurs. With the continuous study of wrinkle formation, anti-wrinkle materials have been developed. Materials that can repair the skin barrier, scavenge free radicals, inhibit the activity of matrix metalloproteinases, protect fibroblasts, and promote collagen synthesis are constantly being explored.
The anti-wrinkle raw materials studied at present include the following: (1) peptides: peptides are constituent fragments of protein structures, which are composed of amino acids with a certain sequence, which are linked by an amide bond, and two amino acidsPeptides consisting of amino acids are called dipeptides, peptides consisting of 3 amino acids are called tripeptides, and so on. Compared with other substances in organisms, the peptide has the greatest characteristics of rapid skin penetration and high biological activity, and can realize remarkable skin tendering and anti-wrinkle effects in a short time. (2) Vitamins: vitamin a, also known as retinol, is a lipid-soluble alcohol. Retinol not only promotes the formation of dermal collagen, but also increases the formation of elastin fibers; nicotinamide also known as vitamin B3Is a water-soluble vitamin. It is the main coenzyme for the synthesis of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NAD). Nicotinamide increases Histone Acetyltransferase (HAT) activity in human fibroblasts while decreasing HAT and histone H4 levels in senescent cells i.e. nicotinamide reverses the phenotypic modulation of senescent fibroblasts by histones; vitamin E is also called tocopherol, can promote metabolism and improve skin elasticity, and has a decisive effect on preventing the skin from being damaged by free radicals; vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is strong in oxidation resistance, but unstable, does not easily enter cells, and can damage intracellular DNA at a large dose. Vitamins E and C have a synergistic effect in scavenging free radicals. (3) Adenosine is a natural purine nucleoside and can be obtained by Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP) decomposition. It was found that adenosine may have a beneficial effect on dynamic wrinkles. (4) The plant active ingredients are as follows: comprises pericarpium Granati, green tea, Eucalyptus globulus, stigma croci Sativi, flos Sophorae Immaturus, etc., and gallic acid derivatives, crocin, flavonoids, etc. contained in these plants have good antioxidant effect, and can also be used for treating OH, O 2Free radicals have good cleaning ability, so the free radicals are widely applied to anti-aging cosmetics. And because the plant components have the characteristics of nature, mildness, no irritation and high safety, the plant components become more and more important for research in recent years.
Patent CN 108324642A discloses an anti-wrinkle repair cream without chemical emulsifier and a preparation method thereof, the anti-wrinkle repair cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 20-30 parts of oat glucan, 12-20 parts of ceramide, 8-12 parts of resveratrol, 15-25 parts of jojoba oil, 1-5 parts of hydrolyzed collagen, 1.5-3.5 parts of soft and moist conditioning components, 3-7 parts of repair factors, 0.5-2.5 parts of antibacterial components and 15-20 parts of solvent. The anti-wrinkle repair cream disclosed by the invention is mild and harmless in raw materials, high in safety, free of chemical emulsifier and harmless to human skin health, and by taking oat glucan, ceramide, resveratrol and jojoba oil as main frames, the damaged skin can be effectively repaired, fine wrinkles can be smoothed, the skin elasticity can be improved, the skin texture can be improved, and the transdermal absorption performance, the repair performance and the moisturizing performance of the anti-wrinkle repair cream can be improved.
Patent CN 112587435A discloses an eye cream for efficiently repairing fine wrinkles, which comprises the following raw materials by weight: the traditional Chinese medicine composition comprises, by weight, 5 parts of squalane, 1 part of grape seed extract, 2 parts of trehalose, 1 part of fibroin, 1 part of aloe leaf extract, 0.5 part of micromolecular chitosan, 6 parts of glycerol, 1 part of pansy, 5 parts of hexapeptide, 1 part of vitamin complex, 1 part of hesperidin methyl chalcone, 1 part of hyaluronic acid, 1 part of mica, 12 parts of polyhydric alcohol, 12 parts of rose hydrosol, 1 part of antibacterial agent, 45 parts of water, 1 part of emulsifier, 12 parts of jojoba oil, 2 parts of resveratrol, 1 part of lecithin and 0.5 part of preservative. The eye cream is prepared from multiple raw materials, and has the effects of delaying aging and eliminating fine wrinkles; the compound vitamins are matched with each other, so that the anti-wrinkle repairing effect is better. Contains multiple repairing components to activate skin cells, promote the regeneration of horny interstitial substance and accelerate the renewal of eye surrounding cells.
Although plant active ingredients such as resveratrol and the like adopted in the prior art have good anti-aging effect, the stability is poor, and the resveratrol is easy to decompose or hydrolyze under illumination, so that the effect of the prepared anti-wrinkle product is greatly reduced, and the use and popularization of the product are influenced. Therefore, the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream with good anti-wrinkle effect and stable property has great market application value.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above defects in the prior art, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to prepare a plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream with good anti-wrinkle effect and stable properties.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a preparation method of plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream comprises the following steps:
s1, weighing 100-120 parts by weight of oil palm fruits, cleaning, removing seeds, crushing, adding 150-200 parts by weight of 80-90% by volume of ethanol solution, soaking for 20-24 hours, filtering to obtain grease, adding 50-80 parts by weight of 80-90% by volume of ethanol solution, extracting twice, combining the extracts, concentrating at 45-50 ℃ and 0.07-0.09 MPa to dryness to obtain an oil palm fruit extract;
s2, weighing 6-8 parts by weight of the oil palm fruit extract obtained in the step S1, mixing with 0.3-0.5 part by weight of glyceryl monostearate, heating to 70-80 ℃, uniformly stirring, weighing 1-2 parts by weight of Tween 80 and 1-2 parts by weight of span 80, adding into 80-90 parts by weight of water, uniformly stirring, adding into the mixed solution of the oil palm fruit extract, and homogenizing at 70-80 ℃ at 15000-18000 r/min for 15-20 min to obtain oil palm fruit liposome;
S3, weighing 50-60 parts by weight of resveratrol, adding 35-45 parts by weight of pyridine and 1-2 parts by weight of 4-dimethylaminopyridine, dropwise adding 30-50 parts by weight of acetic anhydride, stirring at 25-30 ℃ for 4-6 hours, pouring the mixture into 50-60 parts by weight of ice water, stirring for 5-10 minutes until precipitation appears, and filtering to obtain acetylated resveratrol;
s4, weighing 70-85 parts by weight of water, adding 0.3-0.5 part by weight of thickening agent, and uniformly stirring to obtain a dispersion liquid;
s5, weighing 5-10 parts by weight of oil palm fruit liposome, 2-5 parts by weight of emollient and 0.1-0.5 part by weight of chelating agent, adding into the dispersion liquid obtained in the step S4, heating to 60-70 ℃, and homogenizing at 3000-3500 r/min for 3-5 min;
s6, weighing 2-4 parts by weight of emulsifier, adding the emulsifier into the mixture obtained in the step S4, and homogenizing at 3000-3500 r/min for 3-5 min;
s7, when the temperature of the mixture in the step S6 is reduced to 20-30 ℃, adding 5-10 parts by weight of the resveratrol in the step S3, and homogenizing at 3000-3500 r/min for 3-5 min to obtain the plant anti-wrinkle beauty cream.
The thickener is at least one of carbomer, hydroxyethyl cellulose and 1, 3-propylene glycol.
The emollient is at least one of squalane, glycerol and sodium hyaluronate.
The chelating agent is at least one of ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid disodium salt and citric acid.
The emulsifier is at least one of tween 80, span 80 and palmityl alcohol.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the oil palm fruit liposome is prepared by adopting a thermal homogenization method, and the active ingredients in the oil palm fruit liposome are well wrapped in the nano microspheres, so that the stability of the active ingredients is ensured;
(2) the oil palm fruit extract is rich in a large amount of fatty acid, vitamin A and vitamin E, can well nourish the skin, can remove free radicals, and has a good anti-wrinkle effect;
(3) the resveratrol is more stable and not easy to decompose under the conditions of illumination and water existence, and the excellent inoxidizability of the resveratrol can whiten the skin and resist cell aging, and the resveratrol and the oil palm fruit liposome act synergistically, so that the prepared beauty cream has obvious anti-aging effect.
The invention also provides a plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream prepared by the method.
Detailed Description
Hereinafter, the technical solution of the present invention will be described in detail by specific examples, but these examples should be explicitly proposed for illustration, but should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
The parameters of part of the raw materials in the embodiment of the invention are as follows:
oil palm fruit, production area: yunnan Xishuangbanna.
Comparative example 1
The preparation method of the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream comprises the following steps:
s1 weighing 120g of oil palm fruits, cleaning, removing seeds, crushing, adding 200mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, soaking for 24h, filtering to obtain grease, adding 60mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, extracting twice, combining the extracts, and concentrating at 50 ℃ and 0.09MPa to dryness to obtain an oil palm fruit extract;
s2, weighing 6g of the oil palm fruit extract obtained in the step S1, mixing the oil palm fruit extract with 0.5g of glyceryl monostearate, heating the mixture to 75 ℃, uniformly stirring the mixture, weighing 1g of Tween 80 and 1g of span 80, adding the mixture into 90mL of water, uniformly stirring the mixture, adding the mixture into the mixed solution of the oil palm fruit extract, and homogenizing the mixture at 75 ℃ for 15min at 18000r/min to obtain oil palm fruit liposome;
s3 weighing 80g of water, adding 0.3g of 1, 3g of propylene glycol, and stirring uniformly to obtain a dispersion;
s4, weighing 5g of oil palm fruit liposome, 2g of squalane and 0.1g of EDTA-2Na, adding into the dispersion liquid obtained in the step S3, heating to 70 ℃, and homogenizing at 3500r/min for 3 min;
s5, weighing 2g of palmityl alcohol, adding the palmityl alcohol into the mixture obtained in the step S4, and homogenizing at 3500r/min for 3 min;
S6, when the temperature of the mixture is reduced to 20 ℃ in the step S5, 10g of resveratrol is added, and the mixture is homogenized for 3min under the condition of 3500r/min, so that the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream is obtained.
Example 1
A preparation method of plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream comprises the following steps:
s1 weighing 120g of oil palm fruits, cleaning, removing seeds, crushing, adding 200mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, soaking for 24h, filtering to obtain oil, adding 60mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, extracting twice, combining the extracts, and concentrating at 50 ℃ and 0.09MPa to dryness to obtain an oil palm fruit extract;
s2, weighing 6g of the oil palm fruit extract obtained in the step S1, mixing the oil palm fruit extract with 0.5g of glyceryl monostearate, heating the mixture to 75 ℃, uniformly stirring the mixture, weighing 1g of Tween 80 and 1g of span 80, adding the mixture into 90mL of water, uniformly stirring the mixture, adding the mixture into the mixed solution of the oil palm fruit extract, and homogenizing the mixture at 75 ℃ for 15min at 18000r/min to obtain oil palm fruit liposome;
s3, weighing 60g of resveratrol, adding 45g of pyridine and 30g of 4-dimethylaminopyridine, dropwise adding 45g of acetic anhydride, stirring at 25 ℃ for 6 hours, pouring the mixture into 60mL of ice water, stirring for 10min until a precipitate appears, filtering, and taking the precipitate to obtain the acetylated resveratrol;
s4, weighing 80g of water, adding 0.3g of 1, 3-propylene glycol, and uniformly stirring to obtain a dispersion liquid;
S5, weighing 5g of oil palm fruit liposome, 2g of squalane and 0.1g of EDTA-2Na, adding into the dispersion liquid obtained in the step S4, heating to 70 ℃, and homogenizing at 3500r/min for 3 min;
s6, weighing 2g of palmityl alcohol, adding the palmityl alcohol into the mixture obtained in the step S5, and homogenizing for 3min under the condition of 3500 r/min;
s7, when the temperature of the mixture in the step S6 is reduced to 20 ℃, adding 10g of the resveratrol obtained in the step S3, and homogenizing for 3min under the condition of 3500r/min to obtain the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream.
Example 2
The preparation method of the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream comprises the following steps:
s1 weighing 120g of oil palm fruits, cleaning, removing seeds, crushing, adding 200mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, soaking for 24h, filtering to obtain oil, adding 60mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, extracting twice, combining the extracts, and concentrating at 50 ℃ and 0.09MPa to dryness to obtain an oil palm fruit extract;
s2, weighing 60g of resveratrol, adding 45g of pyridine and 30g of 4-dimethylamino pyridine, stirring at 25 ℃ for 6 hours, pouring the mixture into 60mL of ice water, stirring for 10min until a precipitate appears, filtering, and taking the precipitate to obtain the resveratrol;
s3 weighing 80g of water, adding 0.3g of 1, 3-propanediol, and stirring uniformly to obtain a dispersion liquid;
S4, weighing 5g of oil palm fruit extract, 2g of squalane and 0.1g of EDTA-2Na, adding into the dispersion liquid obtained in the step S3, heating to 70 ℃, and homogenizing at 3500r/min for 3 min;
s5, weighing 2g of palmityl alcohol, adding the palmityl alcohol into the mixture obtained in the step S4, and homogenizing for 3min under the condition of 3500 r/min;
s6, when the temperature of the mixture in the step S5 is reduced to 20 ℃, adding 10g of the resveratrol obtained in the step S2, and homogenizing for 3min under the condition of 3500r/min to obtain the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream.
Example 3
The preparation method of the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream comprises the following steps:
s1 weighing 120g of oil palm fruits, cleaning, removing seeds, crushing, adding 200mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, soaking for 24h, filtering to obtain grease, adding 60mL of 90% ethanol solution by volume fraction, extracting twice, combining the extracts, and concentrating at 50 ℃ and 0.09MPa to dryness to obtain an oil palm fruit extract;
s2 weighing 2000g of xanthoceras spinosa leaves, cleaning, crushing, soaking in 5000mL of ethyl acetate for 24h, filtering, and concentrating the filtrate at 50 ℃ and 0.09MPa to dryness to obtain the xanthoceras spinosa leaf extract;
s3, weighing 60g of resveratrol, adding 45g of pyridine and 30g of 4-dimethylamino pyridine, dropwise adding 100g of the xanthophyll extract in the step S2, stirring at 25 ℃ for 6 hours, pouring the mixture into 60mL of ice water, stirring for 10min until precipitates appear, and filtering to obtain an ursolic acid-resveratrol compound;
S4 weighing 80g of water, adding 0.3g of 1, 3-propanediol, and stirring uniformly to obtain a dispersion liquid;
s5, weighing 5g of oil palm fruit extract, 2g of squalane and 0.1g of EDTA-2Na, adding into the dispersion liquid obtained in the step S4, heating to 70 ℃, and homogenizing at 3500r/min for 3 min;
s6, weighing 2g of palmityl alcohol, adding the palmityl alcohol into the mixture obtained in the step S5, and homogenizing for 3min under the condition of 3500 r/min;
s7, when the temperature of the mixture in the step S6 is reduced to 20 ℃, adding 10g of ursolic acid-resveratrol compound in the step S3, and homogenizing for 3min under the condition of 3500r/min to obtain the plant anti-wrinkle beauty cream.
Test example 1
The control examples and the embodiment are tested for wrinkle removing performance, the test method refers to a T/ZHCA006-2019 cosmetic wrinkle resisting efficacy test method for testing, 80 volunteers are selected, the body is healthy (30-65 years old) and the skin condition is good, the selected volunteers are divided into 4 groups, 20 people in each group are female, and the face of each group has no obvious red, skin damage, scar and the like. Before using the product, images of wrinkles in the sample application area and the control area of the subject are collected, and the total volume value of wrinkles at different positions is analyzed by using analysis software. The test area is coated with complete coverage, and the control area is coated with glycerol solution. Respectively trying the products in the comparative examples and the embodiments, using the products once after cleaning faces in the morning and evening, and after 14 days of use, using the products again And secondly, acquiring wrinkle images of the smearing area and the control area of the sample of the subject, analyzing the total volume values of wrinkles at different positions by using analysis software, calculating the difference value before and after the test, and calculating the relative change rate of the wrinkles according to the formula: (Δ V)Control-ΔVSample (I))/ΔVControl100% relative rate of change of wrinkles. Specific results are shown in table 1.
ΔVSample (I)=(V0-Vt)
In the formula:
ΔVsample (I)Average of the difference in total volume of wrinkles on the side of the sample applied, in cubic millimeters (mm)3);
V0Average value of initial value of total volume of wrinkles on sample application side, in cubic millimeters (mm)3);
VtAverage of the measurements of the total volume of wrinkles measured at various points in time on the applied side of the sample, in cubic millimeters (mm) after application3)。
ΔVControl=(Vr0-Vrt)
In the formula:
ΔVcontrolAverage of the difference in total volume of the wrinkles on the control side, in cubic millimeters (mm)3);
Vr0Average unit of initial value of total volume of wrinkles on control side in cubic millimeters (mm)3);
VrtAverage of the total volume measurements in cubic millimeters (mm) of the control side wrinkles at different measurement time points after sample application3)。
TABLE 1 wrinkle-REMOVING PERFORMANCE TEST RESULTS TABLE
Experimental protocol Relative rate of change of wrinkles
Comparative example 1 22.3%
Example 1 31.4%
Example 2 14.1%
Example 3 36.4%
As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream prepared by the invention has certain wrinkle removing effect, has a certain wrinkle eliminating effect, and the examples 1 and 3 show better wrinkle eliminating performance than the comparative examples 1 and 2, this is probably because resveratrol is not easily decomposed and inactivated by subjecting resveratrol to acetylation treatment in example 1, and further can exert good effect when a subject uses the resveratrol-containing extract, the xanthoceras spinosa leaf extract and the resveratrol are adopted to react in the embodiment 3, the ursolic acid rich in the xanthoceras spinosa leaf and the resveratrol are subjected to acylation reaction, the components are more stable after the two are combined, the two can act synergistically when in use, the ursolic acid has good inhibition effect on tyrosinase and elastase, resveratrol has a good anti-oxidation effect, and the combined action of the resveratrol and the anti-oxidation agent results in the best wrinkle removing effect of the product in example 3. In contrast to example 2, the comparative example 1 shows a better wrinkle-removing effect because the oil palm fruit extract is lipidated and the active ingredients are successfully encapsulated in the liposome, and the inactivation of the active ingredients is also avoided.
Test example 2
The control example and the example were subjected to a product mildness test, the test method was referred to GB/T21608-. Sensitization experiments were performed by applying the test article to each group of animals on days 1, 7, and 14. The reaction at the site of application was visually observed and recorded immediately after removal of the drug, followed by 24, 48 and 72 hours after administration, and the skin condition of each group of animals was recorded 14 days later. The specific results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 table of results of the mildness test
Experimental protocol Condition of the skin
Comparative example 1 No obvious abnormality is seen
Example 1 No obvious abnormality is seen
Example 2 No obvious abnormality is seen
Example 3 No obvious abnormality is seen
It is important that cosmetics have mild properties and are not irritating if they have a certain market value, and products based on plant materials are also preferred for this reason. However, the components in the plant extract are complex and still have the possibility of sensitization, so that the plant extract is very important for carrying out sensitization experiments on products. As can be seen from Table 2, the products prepared by the invention are not irritant, do not cause skin allergic reaction, and are suitable for most people.
Test example 3
The stability tests were performed on the comparative examples and comparative examples, and the test standards were performed on the standards in the cosmetic stability test guideline T/SHFCA 002-2021. The method specifically comprises the steps of circularly placing samples for 7 days at a temperature of 54 ℃, a relative humidity of 75 percent and a light-tight condition, and at a temperature of about-5 ℃ and in a light-tight condition, carrying out heat-resistant and cold-resistant alternative experiments, and respectively detecting the properties, the coating uniformity and whether the layering phenomenon exists in the samples. Specific results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 stability test results
Figure BDA0003567519640000111
Figure BDA0003567519640000121
In the stability test, the property of the product changes or the product is layered under extreme conditions due to the property of the product, which can cause the cosmetic cream to lose efficacy and even deteriorate. The results in table 3 show that the loss of the effective components is accelerated under extreme conditions, so that the product is layered and even the properties of the product are changed, which not only causes the function loss and is more likely to cause adverse reactions such as allergy and the like when the product is used by consumers. In examples 1 and 3, the active ingredients of plants were protected, and thus the plant-derived active ingredients were not easily deteriorated and their properties were maintained even under extreme conditions such as low temperature, high temperature, and high humidity. This is probably because the encapsulated nanoparticles formed in the liposome of oil palm fruit in example 1 protect the active ingredients well, and the acetylation of resveratrol makes it not easy to be decomposed, and the ursolic acid-resveratrol complex in example 3 is linked by chemical bonds to make the ingredients more stable, so both can maintain good properties in the stability experiment.

Claims (6)

1. The plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 70-85 parts of water, 0.3-0.5 part of thickening agent, 5-10 parts of oil palm fruit liposome, 2-5 parts of emollient, 0.1-0.5 part of chelating agent, 2-4 parts of emulsifier and 5-10 parts of acetylated resveratrol.
2. The plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the thickener is at least one of carbomer, hydroxyethyl cellulose and 1, 3-propylene glycol.
3. The plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream according to claim 1, wherein; the emollient is at least one of squalane, glycerol and sodium hyaluronate.
4. The plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream according to claim 1, wherein: the chelating agent is at least one of ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid disodium salt and citric acid.
5. The plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream according to claim 1, wherein: the emulsifier is at least one of tween 80, span 80 and palmityl alcohol.
6. The method for preparing the plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the steps of:
s1, weighing 100-120 parts by weight of oil palm fruits, cleaning, removing seeds, crushing, soaking in 150-200 parts by weight of 80-90% ethanol solution by volume fraction for 20-24 hours, filtering to obtain grease, adding 50-80 parts by weight of 80-90% ethanol solution by volume fraction for extraction twice, combining the extracts, concentrating at 45-50 ℃ and 0.07-0.09 MPa to dryness to obtain an oil palm fruit extract;
S2, weighing 6-8 parts by weight of the oil palm fruit extract obtained in the step S1 and 0.3-0.5 part by weight of glyceryl monostearate, mixing, heating to 70-80 ℃, uniformly stirring, weighing 1-2 parts by weight of Tween 80 and 1-2 parts by weight of span 80, adding into 80-90 parts by weight of water, uniformly stirring, adding into the mixed solution of the oil palm fruit extract, and homogenizing at 70-80 ℃ at 15000-18000 r/min for 15-20 min to obtain oil palm fruit liposome;
s3, weighing 50-60 parts by weight of resveratrol, adding 35-45 parts by weight of pyridine and 1-2 parts by weight of 4-dimethylaminopyridine, dropwise adding 30-50 parts by weight of acetic anhydride, stirring at 25-30 ℃ for 4-6 hours, pouring the mixture into 50-60 parts by weight of ice water, stirring for 5-10 minutes until precipitates appear, filtering, and taking the precipitates to obtain acetylated resveratrol;
s4, weighing 70-85 parts by weight of water, adding 0.3-0.5 part by weight of thickening agent, and uniformly mixing to obtain a dispersion liquid;
s5, weighing 5-10 parts by weight of oil palm fruit liposome, 2-5 parts by weight of emollient and 0.1-0.5 part by weight of chelating agent, adding into the dispersion liquid obtained in the step S4, and heating to 60-70 ℃ to homogenize at 3000-3500 r/min for 3-5 min;
s6, weighing 2-4 parts by weight of emulsifier, adding the emulsifier into the mixture obtained in the step S5, and homogenizing for 3-5 min at 3000-3500 r/min;
S7, when the temperature of the mixture in the step S6 is reduced to 20-30 ℃, adding 5-10 parts by weight of the resveratrol obtained in the step S3, and homogenizing at 3000-3500 r/min for 3-5 min to obtain the plant anti-wrinkle beauty cream.
CN202210309701.8A 2022-03-28 2022-03-28 Plant anti-wrinkle cosmetic cream and preparation method thereof Pending CN114748399A (en)

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