CN113730289A - Eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects and application thereof - Google Patents

Eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects and application thereof Download PDF

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CN113730289A
CN113730289A CN202111043662.3A CN202111043662A CN113730289A CN 113730289 A CN113730289 A CN 113730289A CN 202111043662 A CN202111043662 A CN 202111043662A CN 113730289 A CN113730289 A CN 113730289A
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solvent
solution
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oil
polyquaternium
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CN113730289B (en
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周秋娜
周春亚
金炫延
金荣熙
尹锺赫
金延埈
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Cosmax China Cosmetics Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001Preparations for care of the lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Dermatology (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides an eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing efficacies and application thereof. The invention relates to an eye and lip care composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: component b): component c) ═ 1-5: (1-10): (1-10), the component a) is a small molecule oligopeptide solution, the component b) is a skin conditioning agent, and the component c) is a polyquaternium-51 solution. By reasonable compounding and multi-target synergistic effect, the eye mask can form a breathable water-retaining film on the surface of skin, strengthen a lipid barrier, maintain the moisture of the eye lip skin, and simultaneously promote active substances to permeate to the deep layer, and has good repairing effect on the damaged, chapped and inflamed eye lip skin.

Description

Eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing efficacies and application thereof.
Background
The aged face is aged first, and the eyes are the places where the aging information is disclosed first. The eye skin is the thinnest part of human skin, the sum of the thicknesses of the epidermis and the dermis is about 0.55mm, is 1/3-1/5 of the thickness of the face skin, and is easily damaged by external stimulation; the eye part has no sweat gland and sebaceous gland under the skin basically, so that a water-fat film with the functions of locking water and lubricating the skin is difficult to form, and the thin skin around the eyes is easier to dry; eye support structures are rare, lack elastic fiber and collagen structures, and are more prone to fine lines and wrinkles; the eyes blink for 2.4-2.8 ten thousand times every day, which causes the eye muscle and the skin around the eye muscle to be stressed greatly, and easily causes the fatigue and the relaxation of the eyes.
Lip and eye skin are in fact similar and even more fragile than eye skin. The lips are the only mucosa tissues exposed outside of the whole body for a long time, only have 3-5 layers of keratinocytes, are extremely lack of melanin, and cannot resist the invasion of ultraviolet rays, so that the skin of the lips is dark and dull. The lips can not secrete grease by themselves because of no sebaceous glands, the protection of a sebaceous membrane is lacked, the water loss speed is 6 times of that of the facial skin, the skin of the lips is dry and skinned and cracked, and even cracks and cheilitis can be seriously caused. With age, collagen in the skin of the lips decreases and becomes less elastic, resulting in deeper and increased cheilogramma and even spreading beyond the lip line.
Common to the human eye and lip skin mechanisms are: the skin is thin, sebaceous glands are few, and the like, compared with the skin at other parts, the skin is more easily damaged by the external environment, lips are easy to dry and peel, crack, dark lip color and the like, and eyes are easy to have black eye circles, eye bags, fine lines or deep lines and the like.
At present, products on the market mostly focus on solving the problems of dryness, wrinkles, darkness and the like of the whole facial skin, products specially used for solving the problems of the lips are lacked, and the skin around the lips becomes the most sensitive and aging part compared with the skin in other areas, so that the development of a lip product which aims at the characteristics of the skin around the lips, has high safety, strong efficacy and strong pertinence is particularly important.
Shi Zi is originally recorded in Shen nong Ben Cao Jing (Shen nong's herbal), cold in nature, and has the actions of clearing heat and removing toxicity, cooling blood and stopping bleeding, promoting eruption and generating spots. Alkannin is one of the effective components of lithospermum, has pharmacological actions of resisting inflammation, resisting bacteria, promoting wound healing and the like, and has literature reports that the chronic cheilitis is treated by adopting self-made lithospermum wet-dressing liquid medicine, and the total effective rate of the treatment is 93.2%.
Safflower, a plant of the genus Carthamus, Compositae, also known as safflower: the red-blue flower and the thorn-safflower have special fragrance. Safflower seed oil extracted from dry ripe fruits of safflower is a healthy and precious high-quality edible oil, the main component of which is unsaturated fatty acid-linoleic acid which is necessary for human body but can not be synthesized in vivo by self, and the safflower seed oil is known as the king of linoleic acid with the highest content in the known plant edible oil. Linoleic acid is an important component of ceramide I, which plays a crucial role in extracellular lipid matrix formation, and ceramide I deficiency can lead to dry skin and scaling.
Oligopeptides, a class of polypeptides, are compounds formed by the condensation of 2-10 amino acids, generally having a molecular weight of less than 1000 daltons, also called small peptides, oligopeptides or called small molecule active peptides, which have a lower molecular weight than polypeptides and are more permeable to the skin and more easily absorbed by the skin of the human body. Such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1, as messenger peptide for collagen renewal, can stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize collagen and glycosaminoglycan, enhance the function of dermal structure, regulate the connective tissue reconstruction and cell proliferation processes, promote the generation of skin repair protein, and achieve the effects of repairing and removing wrinkles.
The polyquaternium-51 is used as a novel polymer humectant, has the moisturizing effect which is 2 times that of hyaluronic acid, can form a breathable water-retaining film on the surface of skin, and is used as a second water-retaining barrier of the skin barrier to keep the skin moist. The polyquaternium-51 is a phosphorylcholine lipid polymer, has components and characteristics similar to those of human cell membranes, can alleviate and inhibit the toxicity of irritants to cells, and promotes the self-repair of the cells. Meanwhile, the polyquaternium-51 can form nano micelle with an imitated cell membrane structure, so that the permeability of the effective components to the skin is enhanced, and deep and lasting skin care is achieved.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the needs of the existing market, the invention aims to provide an eye-lip care composition with multiple repair efficacies and application thereof.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
in one aspect of the invention, an eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing efficacies is provided, wherein the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: component b): component c) ═ 1-5: (1-10): (1-10);
the component a) is a small molecule oligopeptide solution, wherein the small molecule oligopeptide is selected from one or two combinations of oligopeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-8;
the component b) is a skin conditioner and is obtained by fermenting lithospermum oil and safflower oil, wherein the weight ratio of the lithospermum oil to the safflower oil is (1-5): (1-5);
the component c) is polyquaternium-51 solution.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the composition is preferably component a): component b): component c) 1: 5: 5.
preferably, the mass fraction of the total peptides in the component a) small molecule oligopeptide solution is 0.01-0.05%, and the rest is the first solvent; the first solvent is selected from one or two combination of polyglycerol-2 isostearate and hydrogenated polyisobutene.
More preferably, the arnebia oil of component b) is derived from dried roots extracted from arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst;
weighing an appropriate amount of dry roots of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, cutting into pieces of 1-2cm, adding a second solvent 4-8 times of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, soaking for 24h at 60-80 deg.C for 2-3h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst oil; the second solvent is one or the combination of at least two of ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba oil;
further preferably, the safflower oil is extracted from dried seeds of safflower;
weighing appropriate amount of fructus Carthami tinctorii, drying at 35-45 deg.C to constant weight, pre-pulverizing to about 30 mesh at-10 deg.C to-20 deg.C for 40-60 min; adding n-hexane solvent 6-10 times the weight of the powder, leaching at 65-85 deg.C for 0.5-1.5 hr, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the solvent is completely evaporated to obtain safflower oil.
Further preferably, the mass percent of the polyquaternium-51 in the polyquaternium-51 solution of the component c) is 1.5 to 3.0 percent, and the balance is a fourth solvent; wherein the fourth solvent is selected from one or at least two of caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric glyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate.
In certain embodiments, the lip care compositions are prepared by the following method:
s1, weighing a proper amount of small molecular oligopeptide, adding a first solvent with the weight being 10-15 times of the weight of the small molecular oligopeptide for pre-dispersion, stirring at 40-50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and complementing the solvent to obtain a small molecular oligopeptide solution;
s2, weighing the lithospermum oil and the safflower oil according to the proportion, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding a fermentation strain, wherein the inoculation amount is 0.01-0.05% of the mixed oil, the inoculation temperature is 35-40 ℃, the fermentation time is 8-12h, filtering, and collecting filtrate, namely the skin conditioner;
s3, weighing polyquaternium-51, adding a fourth solvent, stirring and mixing uniformly, and then supplementing the fourth solvent to obtain the polyquaternium-51 solution;
s4, adding the small molecular oligopeptide solution and the skin conditioner solution into the polyquaternium-51 solution according to the proportion, heating to 65-70 ℃, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects.
In certain more specific implementations, the micronizing device of S3 is a low-temperature vibratory pulverizer; the fermentation strain in S4 is yeast or lactobacillus.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing efficacies, which comprises the following steps:
1) weighing a proper amount of small molecular oligopeptide, adding a first solvent with the weight being 10-15 times of the weight of the small molecular oligopeptide for pre-dispersion, stirring at 40-50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and then complementing the first solvent to obtain a small molecular oligopeptide solution; the mass fraction of the total peptides in the small molecule oligopeptide solution is 0.01-0.05%, and the balance is a first solvent; the first solvent is selected from one or two combination of polyglycerol-2 isostearate and hydrogenated polyisobutene.
2) Weighing an appropriate amount of dry roots of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, cutting into pieces of 1-2cm, adding a second solvent 4-8 times of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, soaking for 24h at 60-80 deg.C for 2-3h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst oil; the second solvent is one or the combination of at least two of ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba oil;
3) weighing appropriate amount of fructus Carthami tinctorii, drying at 35-45 deg.C to constant weight, pre-pulverizing to about 30 mesh with low temperature vibration pulverizer at-10 deg.C to-20 deg.C for 40-60 min; then adding n-hexane 6-10 times the weight of the powder, leaching at 65-85 deg.C for 0.5-1.5h, and concentrating under reduced pressure until n-hexane is completely evaporated to obtain safflower oil.
4) Weighing arnebia oil and safflower oil according to a certain proportion, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding a fermentation strain with the inoculation amount of 0.01-0.05% of the mixed oil, the inoculation temperature of 35-40 ℃, the fermentation time of 8-12h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the skin conditioner; the fermentation strain is yeast or lactobacillus.
5) Weighing polyquaternium-51, adding a fourth solvent, stirring and mixing uniformly, and then supplementing the fourth solvent to obtain the polyquaternium-51 solution; the mass percentage of the polyquaternium-51 in the polyquaternium-51 solution is 1.5-3.0%, and the balance is a fourth solvent; wherein the fourth solvent is selected from one or a combination of at least two of caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric glyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate;
6) adding the small molecular oligopeptide solution and the skin conditioner solution into the polyquaternium-51 solution according to the proportion, heating to 65-70 ℃, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the lithospermum oil to the safflower oil in the step 4) is (1-5): (1-5); the weight ratio of the small molecular oligopeptide solution, the skin conditioner solution and the polyquaternium-51 solution in the step 6) is the component a): component b): component c) 1: 5: 5.
in certain embodiments, certain conditions may be further preferred:
1) weighing a proper amount of small molecular oligopeptide palmitoyl tripeptide-1, adding 10 times of hydrogenated polyisobutene for pre-dispersion, stirring at 40-50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and complementing the hydrogenated polyisobutene to obtain a small molecular oligopeptide solution, wherein the mass fraction of total peptides in the small molecular oligopeptide solution is 0.01-0.05%, and the balance is hydrogenated polyisobutene.
2) Weighing a proper amount of dry roots of arnebia euchroma, cutting into pieces of 1-2cm, adding ethylhexyl palmitate 6 times of arnebia euchroma, soaking for 24h at 65 deg.C for 2h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain arnebia euchroma oil;
3) weighing appropriate amount of fructus Carthami tinctorii, drying at 35 deg.C to constant weight, pre-pulverizing to about 30 mesh with low temperature vibration pulverizer at-10 deg.C for 40 min; then adding n-hexane with the weight 8 times of the powder for leaching at 75 ℃ for 1h, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the n-hexane is completely evaporated to obtain safflower oil;
4) weighing the lithospermum oil and the safflower oil according to the proportion respectively, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding a fermentation strain, wherein the inoculation amount is 0.03 percent of the mixed oil, the inoculation temperature is 38 ℃, the fermentation time is 10 hours, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the skin conditioner; the fermentation strain is lactobacillus.
5) Weighing polyquaternium-51, adding 40 times of solvent caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride, stirring and mixing uniformly, and complementing the solvent caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride to obtain the polyquaternium-51 solution; the mass percentage of the polyquaternium-51 in the polyquaternium-51 solution is 1.5-3.0%, and the balance is caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride;
6) adding the small molecular oligopeptide solution and the skin conditioner solution into the polyquaternium-51 solution according to the proportion, heating to 65-70 ℃, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects.
The weight ratio of the lithospermum oil to the safflower oil in the step 4) is (1-5): (1-5); the weight ratio of the small molecular oligopeptide solution, the skin conditioner solution and the polyquaternium-51 solution in the step 6) is 1: 5: 5.
in another aspect, the invention provides an application of the eye and lip care composition, wherein the application of the composition comprises but is not limited to lipstick, lip glaze, lipstick, lip dye, lip mud, lip mask, eye essence, eye gel and eye cream.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial effects:
the safflower oil is prepared, and is subjected to fermentation pretreatment by adopting an ultramicro crushing technology, so that the cell wall breaking rate can be improved, and compared with the traditional extraction method, the safflower oil is more fully contacted with an extraction solvent, and is more favorable for dissolving and releasing active ingredients; according to the invention, the nano micelle structure characteristic of polyquaternium-51 is utilized to encapsulate the small molecular oligopeptide, the lithospermum oil and the safflower oil, so that the permeability of active ingredients can be improved, fat-soluble ingredients are helped to permeate through an epidermal barrier and reach a dermis layer, a targeting effect is exerted, and the anti-aging effect of the small molecular oligopeptide is enhanced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the difference in ceramide-promoting effect between different compositions in Experimental example 1;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the effect of different compositions on the type I collagen synthesis rate in Experimental example 2;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the effect of the emulsion of Experimental example 3 containing the composition of example 7 on the moisture content of the skin around the eyes;
FIG. 4 is a graph of the effect of an emulsion containing the composition of example 7 on the overall reduction in size of canthus wrinkles in Experimental example 3;
FIG. 5 is a graph showing the effect of lip film containing the composition of example 7 on the average depth of wrinkles on the lips in Experimental example 4;
FIG. 6 is a graph showing the effect of lip film containing the composition of example 7 on the average cross-sectional area of lip wrinkles in Experimental example 4;
FIG. 7 is a graph showing the effect of improving lip gloss of a lip film containing the composition of example 7 in Experimental example 4.
Detailed Description
Embodiments of the present application will be described in detail by examples, so that how to apply technical means to solve technical problems and achieve technical effects of the present application can be fully understood and implemented.
The raw materials and equipment used in the present application are all common raw materials and equipment in the field, and are all from commercially available products, unless otherwise specified. The methods used in this application are conventional in the art unless otherwise indicated.
There are many other possible embodiments of the present invention, which are not listed here, and the embodiments claimed in the claims of the present invention can be implemented.
"comprising" or "including" is intended to mean that the compositions (e.g., media) and methods include the recited elements, but not excluding others. When used in defining compositions and methods, "consisting essentially of … …" is meant to exclude other elements having any significance to the combination of the stated objects. Thus, a composition consisting essentially of the elements defined herein does not exclude other materials or steps that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed application. "consisting of … …" refers to trace elements and substantial process steps excluding other components. Embodiments defined by each of these transition terms are within the scope of the present application.
Examples
In the following examples and comparative examples of the present invention, a lip care composition having multiple repair functions was prepared by the following process:
1) weighing a proper amount of small molecular oligopeptide palmitoyl tripeptide-1, adding 10 times of hydrogenated polyisobutene for pre-dispersion, stirring at 40-50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and complementing the hydrogenated polyisobutene to obtain a small molecular oligopeptide solution, wherein the mass fraction of total peptides in the small molecular oligopeptide solution is 0.01-0.05%, and the balance is hydrogenated polyisobutene.
2) Weighing a proper amount of dry roots of arnebia euchroma, cutting into pieces of 1-2cm, adding ethylhexyl palmitate 6 times of arnebia euchroma, soaking for 24h at 65 deg.C for 2h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain arnebia euchroma oil;
3) weighing appropriate amount of fructus Carthami tinctorii, drying at 35 deg.C to constant weight, pre-pulverizing to about 30 mesh with low temperature vibration pulverizer at-10 deg.C for 40 min; then adding n-hexane with the weight 8 times of the powder for leaching at 75 ℃ for 1h, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the n-hexane is completely evaporated to obtain safflower oil;
4) weighing the lithospermum oil and the safflower oil according to the proportion respectively, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding a fermentation strain, wherein the inoculation amount is 0.03 percent of the mixed oil, the inoculation temperature is 38 ℃, the fermentation time is 10 hours, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the skin conditioner; the fermentation strain is lactobacillus.
5) Weighing polyquaternium-51, adding 40 times of solvent caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride, stirring and mixing uniformly, and complementing the solvent caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride to obtain the polyquaternium-51 solution; the mass percentage of the polyquaternium-51 in the polyquaternium-51 solution is 1.5-3.0%, and the balance is caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride;
6) adding the small molecular oligopeptide solution and the skin conditioner solution into the polyquaternium-51 solution according to the proportion, heating to 65-70 ℃, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects.
The weight ratio of the lithospermum oil to the safflower oil in the step 4) is (1-5): (1-5);
wherein said caprylic/capric triglyceride is a common solvent in the art and is directly commercially available.
Examples 1 to 9 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were prepared in the proportions shown in Table 1 by the above-described method, and tested for efficacy. Wherein the component a) is a micromolecular oligopeptide solution, the component b) is a skin conditioner solution, and the component c) is a polyquaternium-51 solution.
TABLE 1 compositions of examples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0003250408460000081
Figure BDA0003250408460000091
Experimental example 1 ceramide Synthesis-promoting test
The skin structure of lips is different from skin of other parts of the body, the water content and barrier function of Stratum Corneum (SC) are low, and Ceramide (CERs) are important lipids for maintaining SC function and are one of parameters for evaluating the barrier function of skin of lips.
HEKa cells of normal human skin, with Epilife containing 1% HKGS (human keratinocyte growth supplement)TMCulture medium (containing PSA solution: penicillin, streptomycin and amphotericin B) at 37 deg.C and 5% CO2Routinely in the incubator, when the cells have grown to 80% confluence, they are digested with Trypsin/EDTA (Trypsin) at about 2.5X 103Per cm2Density of (2) to 25cm2In the culture flask, passage 1 time every 3-5 d.
Taking cells in logarithmic growth phase for conventional digestion, and adjusting the concentration of HEKa cells to 5 x 104Inoculating 100 μ l/ml of the suspension into a 96-well plate, growing to a near-confluent state, and replacing the 96-well plate with EpilifeTMCulturing for 24h, adding 100 μ l sample (Epilife as diluent solvent) with mass fraction of 0.25%TMMedia). Negative control groups (cell and culture medium groups) are set, 5 multiple wells are set for each sample, the samples are placed in an incubator and acted for 24 hours, and supernatants of HEKa cells acted by different compositions are respectively collected and used for ELISA measurement.
The results are shown in FIG. 1, where:
1) the promoting effect of the compositions of examples 1 to 9 on ceramide is higher than that of comparative examples 1 to 3, which shows that the promoting effect of the ceramide is better after 3 single raw materials are combined in a certain proportion;
2) in the compositions of examples 1 to 9, the promoting effect on ceramide tends to rise along with the increase of the component a) small-molecule oligopeptide oil solution, the component b) skin conditioner oil solution and the component c) humectant, and the promoting effect of the component b) skin conditioner oil solution is particularly obvious and tends to be flat after reaching a certain amount.
3) Examples 7, 8 and 9 had the best ceramide-promoting effect.
4) Comparative example 4 the same components as in example 7, but the pulverization was carried out in the same manner as in ordinary pulverization, and it was found that the effect of the ultrafine pulverization was superior to that of the ordinary pulverization.
5) The comparative example 5 component lacks component c) as compared to example 7, the remaining process is the same, and it is found that the effect of example 7 is significantly better than that of comparative example 5, indicating that component c) has a significant positive effect on the composition of the invention.
EXAMPLE 2 fibroblast protein expression assay
Human skin fibroblasts (HDFs) are derived from the dermal layer of the skin and have significant functions in synthesizing collagen and elastin. The collagen synthesized by HDF cells is mainly type i collagen, and serves as the main component of collagen fibers.
HDF cells were supplemented with FM medium with 10% neonatal calf serum, penicillin (100IU/ml) and streptomycin (100. mu.g/ml), 37 ℃, 5% CO2Culturing under the condition. Then, the HDF cells in the logarithmic phase were cultured in suspension to adjust the cell density (the cell density was 111111/ml in the case of cell viability assay, and 90. mu.l/well was added to a 96-well plate; the cell density was 30000/ml in the case of collagen type I synthesis assay, and 2 ml/well was added to a 12-well plate), 37 ℃ with 5% CO2Culturing under the condition. After 24h, the cells were attached and 0.25% of the test sample (DMSO as the dilution solvent) and positive control (EGF, 10ng/ml) were added. The supernatants were harvested and tested for type i collagen content using an ELISA kit, with the cell number and the amount of collagen produced by untreated cells as references (═ 100%).
The results are shown in FIG. 2, where:
the synthesis rates of the types I collagen of the compositions in the examples 1 to 9 are all higher than those of the compositions in the comparative examples 1 to 3, which shows that the synthesis rates of the types I collagen can be improved by combining 3 single raw materials according to a certain proportion, wherein the promotion effect of the type I collagen synthesis rate of the example 7 is optimal, and the promotion effect of the ultra-micro grinding on the type I collagen synthesis rate is found to be better than that of the common grinding in the comparative examples 4 and 5 compared with the comparison of the example 7 respectively, and the composition containing the component c) has obvious positive promotion effect.
Based on this, considering the efficacy, cost and stability of the composition in combination, example 7 (component a): component b): component c) 1: 5: 5).
Experimental example 3
Screening 30 healthy volunteers aged 30-45 years. Skin wrinkles were measured using an aneometer to measure moisture content using an aneter 3D with 2% emulsion of example 7 (formula shown below), whole face, 1 time in the morning and evening, approximately 3-4 soybeans each, for 4 weeks, and the results are shown in fig. 3 and fig. 4.
Figure BDA0003250408460000111
Figure BDA0003250408460000121
Fig. 3 is the skin moisture content around the eyes (A.U.).
Fig. 4 is an eye corner wrinkle overall size reduction ratio (%).
Experimental example 4
Screening of 35 healthy volunteers aged 30-45 years. Lip wrinkles were measured using 5% lip film of example 7 applied 1 time each day in the morning, noon and evening, 1 week and 2 weeks after product application using Antera 3D, and photographed using Janus II and C-CUBE, respectively, and the results were as follows:
Figure BDA0003250408460000122
FIG. 5 is the average lip wrinkle depth (mm);
FIG. 6 is the average cross-sectional area (mm) of the lip wrinkles2);
FIG. 7 is a diagram showing the effect of improving lip wrinkles.
The details not described in the specification of the present application belong to the common general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
In the following description and in the claims, the terms "include" and "comprise" are used in an open-ended fashion, and thus should be interpreted to mean "include, but not limited to. "substantially" means within an acceptable error range, and a person skilled in the art can solve the technical problem within a certain error range to substantially achieve the technical effect.
It is also noted that the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a good or system that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such good or system. Without further limitation, an element defined by the phrase "comprising an … …" does not exclude the presence of other like elements in a commodity or system that includes the element.
The foregoing description shows and describes several preferred embodiments of the present application, but as aforementioned, it is to be understood that the application is not limited to the forms disclosed herein, but is not to be construed as excluding other embodiments and is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes within the scope of the inventive concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings, or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. And that modifications and variations may be effected by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the application, which is to be protected by the claims appended hereto.

Claims (10)

1. An eye-lip care composition with multiple repairing efficacies, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: component b): component c) ═ 1-5: (1-10): (1-10);
the component a) is a small molecule oligopeptide solution, wherein the small molecule oligopeptide is selected from one or two combinations of oligopeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and palmitoyl hexapeptide-8;
the component b) is a skin conditioner and is obtained by fermenting lithospermum oil and safflower oil, wherein the weight ratio of the lithospermum oil to the safflower oil is (1-5): (1-5);
the component c) is polyquaternium-51 solution.
2. The ophthalmic lip care composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition weight ratio, preferably component a): component b): component c) 1: 5: 5.
3. the composition according to claim 2, wherein the mass fraction of the total peptides in the component a) small molecule oligopeptide solution is 0.01-0.05%, and the first solvent is the rest; the first solvent is selected from one or two combination of polyglycerol-2 isostearate and hydrogenated polyisobutene.
4. The composition for caring lips, according to claim 2, wherein component b) the arnebia oil is derived from the dried root extracted from arnebia euchroma (sieb) sieb;
weighing an appropriate amount of dry roots of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, cutting into pieces of 1-2cm, adding a second solvent 4-8 times of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, soaking for 24h at 60-80 deg.C for 2-3h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst oil; the second solvent is one or the combination of at least two of ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba oil;
said safflower oil is extracted from dried seeds of safflower;
weighing appropriate amount of fructus Carthami tinctorii, drying at 35-45 deg.C to constant weight, pre-pulverizing to about 30 mesh at-10 deg.C to-20 deg.C for 40-60 min; adding n-hexane solvent 6-10 times the weight of the powder, leaching at 65-85 deg.C for 0.5-1.5 hr, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the solvent is completely evaporated to obtain safflower oil.
5. The composition for caring lips according to claim 2, wherein the polyquaternium-51 in the polyquaternium-51 solution of component c) is 1.5 to 3.0% by mass, and the fourth solvent is the rest; wherein the fourth solvent is selected from one or at least two of caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric glyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate.
6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is obtained by a process comprising:
s1, weighing a proper amount of small molecular oligopeptide, adding a first solvent with the weight being 10-15 times of the weight of the small molecular oligopeptide for pre-dispersion, stirring at 40-50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and complementing the solvent to obtain a small molecular oligopeptide solution;
s2, weighing the lithospermum oil and the safflower oil according to the proportion, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding a fermentation strain, wherein the inoculation amount is 0.01-0.05% of the mixed oil, the inoculation temperature is 35-40 ℃, the fermentation time is 8-12h, filtering, and collecting filtrate, namely the skin conditioner;
s3, weighing polyquaternium-51, adding a fourth solvent, stirring and mixing uniformly, and complementing the solvent to obtain the polyquaternium-51 solution;
s4, adding the small molecular oligopeptide solution and the skin conditioner solution into the polyquaternium-51 solution according to the proportion, heating to 65-70 ℃, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects.
7. The ophthalmic lip care composition according to claim 6,
the ultramicro crushing equipment in the S3 is a low-temperature vibration crusher;
the fermentation strain in S4 is yeast or lactobacillus.
8. A method of preparing an eye-lip care composition having multiple rejuvenation benefits comprising the steps of:
1) weighing a proper amount of small molecular oligopeptide, adding a first solvent with the weight being 10-15 times of the weight of the small molecular oligopeptide for pre-dispersion, stirring at 40-50 ℃, uniformly mixing, and then complementing the first solvent to obtain a small molecular oligopeptide solution; the mass fraction of the total peptides in the small molecule oligopeptide solution is 0.01-0.05%, and the balance is a first solvent; the first solvent is selected from one or two combinations of polyglycerol-2 isostearate and hydrogenated polyisobutene;
2) weighing an appropriate amount of dry roots of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, cutting into pieces of 1-2cm, adding a second solvent 4-8 times of arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst, soaking for 24h at 60-80 deg.C for 2-3h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain arnebia euchroma (Royle) Johnst oil; the second solvent is one or the combination of at least two of ethylhexyl palmitate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba oil;
3) weighing appropriate amount of fructus Carthami tinctorii, drying at 35-45 deg.C to constant weight, pre-pulverizing to about 30 mesh with low temperature vibration pulverizer at-10 deg.C to-20 deg.C for 40-60 min; then adding n-hexane with the weight 6-10 times of the weight of the powder for leaching at 65-85 deg.C for 0.5-1.5h, and concentrating under reduced pressure until n-hexane is completely evaporated to obtain safflower oil;
4) weighing arnebia oil and safflower oil according to a certain proportion, stirring and mixing uniformly, adding a fermentation strain with the inoculation amount of 0.01-0.05% of the mixed oil, the inoculation temperature of 35-40 ℃, the fermentation time of 8-12h, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain the skin conditioner; the fermentation strain is yeast or lactobacillus;
5) weighing polyquaternium-51, adding a fourth solvent, stirring and mixing uniformly, and supplementing the fourth solvent to obtain the polyquaternium-51 solution; the mass percentage of the polyquaternium-51 in the polyquaternium-51 solution is 1.5-3.0%, and the balance is a fourth solvent; wherein the fourth solvent is selected from one or a combination of at least two of caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric glyceride and ethylhexyl palmitate;
6) adding the small molecular oligopeptide solution and the skin conditioner solution into the polyquaternium-51 solution according to the proportion, heating to 65-70 ℃, mixing and stirring uniformly to obtain the eye and lip care composition with multiple repairing effects.
9. The preparation method according to claim 8, wherein the weight ratio of arnebia oil to safflower oil in step 4) is (1-5): (1-5);
the weight ratio of the small molecular oligopeptide solution, the skin conditioner solution and the polyquaternium-51 solution in the step 6) is the component a): component b): component c) 1: 5: 5.
10. use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for the care of the lips, wherein the use of the composition includes, but is not limited to, lipsticks, lip glazes, lipsticks, lip stains, lip mud, lip masks, eye essences, eye gels, eye creams.
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