CN114557928B - Skin care product for whitening and removing yellow and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Skin care product for whitening and removing yellow and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114557928B
CN114557928B CN202210196224.9A CN202210196224A CN114557928B CN 114557928 B CN114557928 B CN 114557928B CN 202210196224 A CN202210196224 A CN 202210196224A CN 114557928 B CN114557928 B CN 114557928B
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whitening
skin
care product
skin care
yellow
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CN114557928A (en
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秦松辉
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Shanghai Lianheng Biotechnology Co ltd
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Shanghai Lianheng Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9755Gymnosperms [Coniferophyta]
    • A61K8/9767Pinaceae [Pine family], e.g. pine or cedar
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4986Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with sulfur as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/66Enzymes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Abstract

The invention discloses a skin care product for whitening and removing yellow and a preparation method thereof. The skin care product comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 25 to 40 percent of active extract, 2 to 5 percent of pine needle extract, 0.04 to 0.48 percent of citric acid modified mixture, 5 to 10 percent of alpha-lipoic acid, 2 to 8 percent of orange leaf essential oil, 0.6 to 1.2 percent of papain, 5 to 10 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 0.8 percent of preservative and the balance of water. The invention also provides a preparation method of the composite. Compared with the prior art, the whitening and yellowing skin care product prepared by the invention has good whitening and yellowing and moisturizing effects, and can effectively permeate the stratum corneum of the skin to act on the skin.

Description

Skin care product for whitening and removing yellow and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a whitening and yellowing-removing skin care product and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In the current situation where the natural environment is getting worse and the pressure of life is continuously increasing, the skin is subjected to daily abrasion and pulling with the age, and fine lines and wrinkles occur, which are mainly caused by collagen degradation. Gravity begins to drop the skin down, causing the skin to relax and become weak. The body secretes less sebum, and insufficient sebum can cause dry and itchy dander. The cell regeneration effect is slowed down, so that the skin becomes dull and no vital energy, and thus, the bad symptoms such as dark yellow skin, pigmentation, color spot clouds and the like are more and more seen, the improvement of the skin color becomes an increasingly important field for modern people, and the research and development of skin care products with whitening effect are also focused. The color of human skin is determined by the content of melanin, carotenoid in epidermis and pigments such as oxyhemoglobin, hemoglobin, bilirubin in dermis, wherein melanin is the main influencing factor. Melanin is a high molecular polymer, which is classified into brown-black insoluble eumelanin and red-yellow sulfur-containing soluble pheomelanin, and is mainly synthesized and secreted by melanocytes. Melanosomes are specific organelles within melanocytes that contain melanin particles, the synthesis, storage and transport of which take place in the melanosomes. Melanin has the function of absorbing and scattering ultraviolet rays, and protects the skin from being damaged by ultraviolet radiation, thereby protecting intracellular DNA. However, excessive deposition of melanin in the skin darkens the skin tone, affecting aesthetics and even causing pigment-increasing diseases.
The skin is composed of cells, and the cells need proper nutrition for growth, and careful diet comprises abundant fruits, vegetables and fiber, which can assist the body to maintain good operation function, and the skin can be in peak state. Studies have shown that low fat diets can reduce the incidence of skin disorders. In addition, protein uptake is better in select aquatic products. The water soaked by fructus Lycii and radix Panacis Quinquefolii is drunk every day to improve oxygen absorption ability of skin, and has whitening effect. The wolfberry fruit contains wolfberry polysaccharide, various amino acids, trace elements, vitamins, taurine, alkaloid, volatile oil and other components, and has the effects of nourishing liver and kidney, and benefiting essence and improving eyesight. The American ginseng is different from other ginseng, has the effects of tonifying qi and nourishing yin, and can not cause excessive internal heat after being taken. If the fire is strong, chrysanthemum can be added into the water to dispel wind and clear heat, cool blood and improve eyesight. During sleep, the body can secrete human growth hormone and other skin growth factors, collagen and new skin cells can be stimulated, and skin loses gloss at the cost of insufficient sleep. It follows that by regulating diet and sleep, the skin condition can be improved, but in a fast-paced work and life, this approach is not applicable to most people. The research on the whitening mechanism is not perfected at present, wherein the research is more thorough, namely, skin color can be improved and pigmentation can be lightened through treatments of reducing melanin content in epidermis, repairing skin barrier, improving skin blood circulation, resisting oxidation and resisting inflammation, so that the skin roughness and darkness can be improved by utilizing daily skin care products, and the skin whitening cream is suitable for most people. Meanwhile, people have made a lot of achievements in whitening, removing yellow and protecting skin.
The invention patent with publication number of CN110974726A discloses a whitening and anti-yellowing mask formula and a preparation method thereof, wherein the whitening mask formula comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 8-10 parts of olive fruit oil, 2-4 parts of behenyl alcohol, 4-6 parts of glycerin, 2-4 parts of butanediol, 1-1.5 parts of arginine, 1-3 parts of cetostearyl glucoside, 0.5-1.5 parts of calendula extract, 0.5-1.5 parts of zhen bai, 2-4 parts of hydrolyzed rice extract, 0.3-0.8 part of panthenol, 0.0005-0.0015 part of fullerene, 0.05 part of essence and the balance of water; also discloses a preparation method of the whitening and yellow-removing facial mask. The mask formula provided by the invention can effectively solve the problem of dark yellow face caused by pressure emotion, stay up and the like. However, the facial mask prepared by the formula has poor degreasing effect and poor skin wettability after use.
The invention patent with publication number of CN113648253A discloses essence for whitening, removing yellow and fading spots, which comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 45-55 parts of sea buckthorn extract, 10-20 parts of humectant, 1-5 parts of antioxidant, 1-3 parts of pH regulator, 1-5 parts of skin conditioner, 1-3 parts of preservative and 10-20 parts of water solvent. The raw materials used in the formula have stable physical and chemical properties, and according to the known chemical interaction, the raw materials are mixed without generating risk substances; the equipment, the container and the container used by the final product in the production process meet the production requirements of cosmetics, the operation process is good and standard, substances other than the formula and possible risk substances are not entrained in the product, but the essence for whitening, removing yellow and fading spots has low efficiency of penetrating skin cutin in the skin use process, and the effects of whitening, removing yellow and fading spots can be reduced.
The invention patent with publication number of CN108379107A discloses a composition with the effects of moisturizing, whitening, removing yellow and preventing allergy, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.002-0.5% of bioactive polypeptide, 3-8% of glabridin, 16-38% of matrix component and the balance of cold spring water. Inhibiting melanin formation from skin source, keeping moisture, whitening skin, eliminating yellow, removing color spots, and whitening skin; the added cold spring water of the wudalianchi volcanic is rich in trace elements such as potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, fluorine, chromium, zinc, copper, barium and the like, the content of the trace elements is equal to the proportion of the requirement of a human body, the digestion function of the human body and the water salt metabolism of the human body can be effectively regulated, the biological enzyme system function and the endocrine system of the human body can be improved, and the cold spring water has good medicinal value and good curative effect on skin diseases; the composition is suitable for general people, is suitable for people with skin sensitivity or skin diseases, and can further improve the skin diseases. But the active ingredient acts on the skin inwards slowly in the using process, and the short-term effect is not obvious.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the defects of water supplementing property, low utilization rate of active substances, slow skin effect of the active substances and the like in the prior art during use, the invention aims to solve the technical problems of obtaining a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product which has good water supplementing property and can effectively act on the inside of the skin through the surface layer of the skin.
The invention provides a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 25 to 40 percent of active extract, 2 to 5 percent of pine needle extract, 0.05 to 0.54 percent of citric acid modified mixture, 5 to 10 percent of alpha-lipoic acid, 2 to 8 percent of orange leaf essential oil, 0.06 to 0.12 percent of papain, 5 to 10 percent of humectant, 0.2 to 0.8 percent of preservative and the balance of water.
Preferably, the active extract is prepared by the following method, and the parts are all parts by weight:
step 1, respectively washing cowberry leaves and picked pumpkin leaves with water, drying until the cowberry leaves and the picked pumpkin leaves can be kneaded, grinding and sieving to obtain pumpkin leaf powder and cowberry leaf powder, sealing and freezing for preservation;
step 2, mixing 200-500 parts of the cowberry leaf powder prepared in the step 1, 100-300 parts of the pumpkin leaf powder prepared in the step 1 and 1500-4000 parts of the aqueous solution, stirring at 100-110 ℃ and condensing and refluxing for 1-3 hours, stopping condensing and refluxing to obtain a primary extraction mixture, stirring, heating and condensing the primary extraction mixture at 55-75 ℃, collecting volatile liquid, and freeze-drying to obtain active volatile oil; heating and evaporating the rest primary extraction mixture at 100-110 ℃ until the volume becomes 1/4-1/2 of the original volume, adding 600-2000 parts of absolute ethyl alcohol, stirring and heating at 65-85 ℃ and condensing and refluxing for 1-3 hours, filtering, collecting filtrate, heating and evaporating at 80-100 ℃ until solids appear in the filtrate, vacuum drying at 80-100 ℃ for 6-8 hours, mixing with active volatile oil, irradiating with ultraviolet light for 30-60 minutes, sealing and freezing for preservation, and obtaining the active extract.
Preferably, the drying temperature in the step 1 is 40-55 ℃.
Preferably, the grinding condition in the step 1 is 300-500 rpm for 30-60 minutes, and the grinding condition is 80-200 meshes.
Preferably, in the step 1, the sealed freezing preservation is to vacuumize the material and preserve the material at the temperature of-10 to-16 ℃.
Preferably, the stirring speed in the step 2 is 300-500 rpm.
Preferably, the filtration in the step 2 is performed by using one of water-based filter papers having pore diameters of 0.2 μm, 0.22 μm and 0.45 μm.
Preferably, the freeze drying time in the step 2 is 24-48 hours.
Preferably, the citric acid modified mixture is prepared as follows:
d1, adding 0.01 to 0.06 part of citric acid into 100 to 250 parts of absolute ethyl alcohol, adding chitosan after complete dissolution, stirring for 30 to 60 minutes at 400 to 600 revolutions per minute, stirring and heating at 95 to 105 ℃ at 400 to 600 revolutions per minute until the absolute ethyl alcohol is completely evaporated, obtaining a citric acid modified mixture,
preferably, in the step D1, the weight part ratio of citric acid to chitosan is 1:4 to 8.
Preferably, the pine needle extract is the extract of pine needle of pine tree, including the extract of pine needle of Pinus massoniana, pinus koraiensis.
Preferably, the humectant is tea seed oil and hyaluronic acid with a weight ratio of 1.5: (0.1-1.2).
Preferably, the preservative is p-hydroxyacetophenone and limonene in a weight ratio of 1: the mixture of (1-3).
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and yellowing skin care product, which comprises the following preparation steps: adding the active extract, pine needle extract, citric acid modified mixture, alpha-lipoic acid, orange leaf essential oil, papain, humectant and preservative into water, stirring for 30-90 minutes, homogenizing for 30-90 minutes at 6000-8000 rpm, and irradiating with ultraviolet light for 30-60 minutes to obtain a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product; the stirring speed is 400-600 rpm.
The invention takes the water extracts of the pumpkin leaves and the cowberry leaves as main active substances, and takes pine needle extracts and orange leaf essential oil as auxiliary materials, so that the invention has the effects of whitening, removing yellow and moisturizing, can effectively repair skin dryness, quicken skin scar healing and maintain skin saline-alkali balance. The papain is compounded with the chitosan grafted with the citric acid, so that the force of the active ingredients of the skin product on the inner layer of the skin through skin cutin is increased, the effect of the skin care product is effectively improved, and the growth of harmful bacteria on the surface of the skin is inhibited when the skin care product is acted on the skin. The p-hydroxyacetophenone and the limonene are mixed to serve as preservatives, antibacterial and antiseptic effects of the skin care product during storage are enhanced, meanwhile, the limonene also has the effects of degreasing and antioxidation, skin grease balance is balanced, the skin grease enters skin hair follicles, mass propagation of parasitic pathogenic microorganisms can be restrained, and occurrence of skin inflammation is effectively relieved.
Due to the adoption of the scheme, compared with the prior art, the invention has the following functions: 1) The skin care product has the effects of whitening, removing yellow and moisturizing, and can improve the effect of the skin care product by improving the penetration of active substances of the skin care product into the deep layer of the skin through the stratum corneum; 2) Can effectively relieve skin inflammation and repair skin dryness, and accelerate skin scar healing; 3) Can inhibit mass multiplication of skin parasitic pathogenic microorganisms and growth of harmful bacteria on skin surface.
The folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae plant Vaccinium myrtillus L.leaf is also called bearberry leaf, and is obtained by collecting leaf during 6 months of flowering, sun drying, and drying. The folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae contains arbutin, ursolic acid, pear glycoside, mao Liudai, 4-hydroxyphenyl, beta-gentiobioside, hyperin, avicularin, quercetin 3-D-glucose-L-rhamnoside. 2-o-caffeoyl arbutin and isoquercitrin. And 7.9 to 8.2 percent of burnt catechol type tannins, has the effects of detoxification, diuresis and the like.
Pine needle extract is needle leaf extracted from pine tree, and the pine is the long of all kinds of wood, and the leaves, skin and ointment are mainly used for treating rheumatism, wind pain, hair growth, five viscera safety, yang strengthening, middle-jiao strengthening, hunger eliminating, life prolonging, tooth strengthening, face retaining, skin jade and body weight reducing. There are many records of health care and disease treatment effects of pine needles in ancient books of pharmacopoeias in China, and pine needles with life-promoting functions are listed as 'medicine feeding' in "Ben Cao gang mu" in Li Shizhen. Recent scientific research shows that pine needles contain abundant flavonoid substances, vitamins (vitamin C, vitamin A, beta-carotene and vitamin E, B), various amino acids and mineral elements, and can prevent and treat influenza, night blindness, rheumatism and strengthen body. At present, the medicinal use of pine needles and pine trees is more widespread in the united states, france, spanish, etc. The pine needle extract is rich in natural water-soluble bioflavonoid concentrate, and is a compound antioxidant substance. The pine needle extract can obviously reduce the cancerogenic hazard of three traditional foods of fumigation, curing and fermentation, and is a natural anti-gene mutation food. Deep processing to obtain brown tablet, which can be directly administered with water.
The chitosan is prepared from chitin as raw material by deacetylation, and has chemical name of polyglucosamine (1-4) -2-amino-B-D glucose, and is insoluble in water, soluble in dilute acid, and absorbable by human body. Chitosan is a primary derivative of chitin. The chemical structure of the polymer is a high molecular basic polysaccharide polymer with cations, and the polymer has unique physical and chemical properties and biological activation functions.
Lipoic acid is coenzyme existing in mitochondria, enters cells after being absorbed by intestinal tracts in vivo, has the characteristics of fat solubility and water solubility, and can pass through the whole body without resistance to reach any cell part, thereby providing comprehensive efficacy for human body. Alpha-lipoic acid is also called lipoic acid or caprylic acid, is a powerful antioxidant, and can help cells to convert glucose into energy, and has the effects of detoxifying the body, resisting skin inflammation, stabilizing blood sugar and the like. The water-soluble and fat-soluble organic compound can permeate the tissues such as nervous system and heart mainly composed of fat and water, thus protecting them from free radical damage and cleaning them out of the body before the free radicals damage cells. Lipoic acid also helps the body to more effectively utilize vitamins E and C, as well as other antioxidants such as glutathione. This nutrient also allows vitamin B to be more effective in converting protein, carbohydrate and fat into energy.
Papain, also called papain for short, is a pure natural biological enzyme product extracted by using milk in immature papaya fruits and adopting modern biological engineering technology, is a low-specificity proteolytic enzyme, and widely exists in roots, stems, leaves and fruits of papaya, wherein the content of the papaya enzyme in the immature milk is most abundant. It has strong hydrolytic capacity to animal and plant protein, polypeptide, ester, amide, etc. and also has synthetic function, and can synthesize protein hydrolysate into protein. Papain is a sulfhydryl (-SH) endopeptidase, has the activities of protease and esterase, contains cysteine in the active center, belongs to the sulfhydryl protease, has the characteristics of high enzyme activity, good heat stability, natural sanitation, safety and the like, is dissolved in water and glycerol, and is colorless or light yellow in water solution and sometimes milky; is hardly dissolved in organic solvents such as ethanol, chloroform, diethyl ether and the like. Most suitable for PH value of 6-7 (generally 3-9.5), and has effect in neutral or slightly acidic, isoelectric point of 8.75; the most suitable temperature is 55-65 ℃ (generally 10-85 ℃ all the time), the heat resistance is strong, and the heat cannot be completely inactivated at 90 ℃; is inhibited by an oxidizing agent and the reducing substance is activated. Papain consists of 212 amino acid residues, and after 2/3 peptide chains in molecules are hydrolyzed from N terminal by aminopeptidase, the remaining 1/3 peptide chains still keep 99% of activity, so that the papain has wide application in industries such as food, medicine, feed, daily chemicals, leather, textile and the like.
Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronic acid, is an acidic mucopolysaccharide. It is an important basic substance for skin care, is a component of human body, has special moisturizing effect, has the weight up to 100 times of the weight of the skin care, is the substance with the best moisturizing property in the nature, and is called ideal natural moisturizing factor. It can improve skin nutrition metabolism, make skin tender, smooth, remove wrinkle, increase elasticity, prevent aging, and is good transdermal absorption promoter while keeping moisture.
Detailed Description
The specific raw material sources of the embodiment are as follows:
pumpkin leaves were purchased from green organic vegetable gardens of vegetable farmers.
Cowberry leaf: in the producing area, salty yang is present.
Chitosan: molecular weight of sienga and biotechnology limited: 1526.4539 degree of deacetylation: greater than 90%.
Pine needle extract: xian Guangdong Biotechnology Limited liability company, goods number: TGY-1650, content: more than or equal to 99 percent.
Orange leaf essential oil: shenzhen city Dingcheng plant perfume limited company, product number: DC-054, pale yellow liquid.
Papain: henan Zhengxing food additive Co., ltd., preservation rate of enzyme activity: 99%, enzyme activity: 10 ten thousand, goods number: 1001, arsenic content is 0.00003%.
Tea seed oil: jian city Zhongxiang natural plant Co., ltd., model: jc-0037, pale yellow to yellow liquid, relative density: 0.912 to 0.927.
Limonene: wuhan belcat biomedical limited, CAS number: 7705-14-8.
Example 1
A preparation method of a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product comprises the following preparation steps:
30g of active extract, 3.5g of pine needle extract, 0.3g of citric acid modified mixture, 7g of alpha-lipoic acid, 5g of orange leaf essential oil, 0.1g of papain, 4.2g of tea seed oil, 2.8g of hyaluronic acid, 0.2g of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.4g of limonene are added into 46.5g of water, stirred for 60 minutes at 500 rpm, homogenized for 60 minutes at 7000 rpm, and irradiated by ultraviolet light for 40 minutes, so as to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
The active extract is prepared by the following method:
step 1, respectively washing 300g of cowberry leaves and 200g of picked pumpkin leaves with water, drying at 45 ℃ until the cowberry leaves and the cowberry leaves can be kneaded, ball-milling at 400 revolutions per minute for 45 minutes, sieving with a 100-mesh sieve to obtain pumpkin leaf powder and cowberry leaf powder, vacuumizing and then preserving at the temperature of minus 14 ℃;
step 2, mixing 300g of the cowberry leaf powder prepared in the step 1, 150g of the pumpkin leaf powder prepared in the step 1 and 2000g of the water solution, stirring at 105 ℃ at 400 rpm, condensing and refluxing for 2 hours, stopping condensing and refluxing to obtain a primary extraction mixture, stirring, heating and condensing the primary extraction mixture at 65 ℃, collecting volatile liquid, and freeze-drying for 36 hours to obtain active volatile oil; evaporating the rest primary extract mixture at 105deg.C until the volume becomes 1/3 of the original volume, adding 1000g of anhydrous ethanol, stirring at 75deg.C, heating under reflux for 2 hr, filtering with 0.22 μm pore diameter water-based filter paper, collecting filtrate, evaporating at 100deg.C until solid appears in the filtrate, vacuum drying at 85deg.C for 7 hr, mixing with active volatile oil, irradiating with ultraviolet light for 45 min, vacuumizing, and preserving at-14deg.C to obtain active extract.
The citric acid modified mixture is prepared by the following method:
d1, adding 0.04g of citric acid into 150g of absolute ethyl alcohol, adding 0.24g of chitosan after complete dissolution, stirring for 45 minutes at 500 rpm, and heating at 100 ℃ at 500 rpm until the absolute ethyl alcohol is completely evaporated, thus obtaining a citric acid modified mixture.
Comparative example 1
A preparation method of a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product comprises the following preparation steps:
30g of active extract, 3.5g of pine needle extract, 0.3g of citric acid modified mixture, 7g of alpha-lipoic acid, 5g of orange leaf essential oil, 0.1g of papain, 4.2g of tea seed oil, 2.8g of hyaluronic acid and 0.6g of p-hydroxyacetophenone are added into 46.5g of water, stirred for 60 minutes at 500 rpm, homogenized for 60 minutes at 7000 rpm, and irradiated by ultraviolet light for 40 minutes to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
The active extract and citric acid modified mixture were prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 2
A preparation method of a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product comprises the following preparation steps:
30g of active extract, 3.5g of pine needle extract, 0.4g of citric acid modified mixture, 7g of alpha-lipoic acid, 5g of orange leaf essential oil, 4.2g of tea seed oil, 2.8g of hyaluronic acid, 0.2g of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.4g of limonene are added into 46.5g of water, stirred for 60 minutes at 500 rpm, homogenized for 60 minutes at 7000 rpm, and irradiated by ultraviolet light for 40 minutes to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
The active extract and citric acid modified mixture were prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 3
A preparation method of a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product comprises the following preparation steps:
30g of active extract, 3.5g of pine needle extract, 7g of alpha-lipoic acid, 5g of orange leaf essential oil, 0.4g of papain, 4.2g of tea seed oil, 2.8g of hyaluronic acid, 0.2g of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.4g of limonene are added into 46.5g of water, stirred for 60 minutes at 500 rpm, homogenized for 60 minutes at 7000 rpm, and irradiated by ultraviolet light for 40 minutes to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
The active extract was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 4
A preparation method of a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product comprises the following preparation steps:
30g of active extract, 3.5g of pine needle extract, 7g of alpha-lipoic acid, 5g of orange leaf essential oil, 4.2g of tea seed oil, 2.8g of hyaluronic acid, 0.2g of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.4g of limonene are added into 46.5g of water, stirred for 60 minutes at 500 rpm, homogenized for 60 minutes at 7000 rpm, and irradiated by ultraviolet light for 40 minutes to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
The active extract was prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 5
A preparation method of a whitening and yellow-removing skin care product comprises the following preparation steps:
3.5g of pine needle extract, 0.3g of citric acid modified mixture, 7g of alpha-lipoic acid, 5g of orange leaf essential oil, 0.1g of papain, 4.2g of tea seed oil, 2.8g of hyaluronic acid, 0.2g of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.4g of limonene are added into 46.5g of water, stirred for 60 minutes at 500 rpm, homogenized for 60 minutes at 7000 rpm, and irradiated by ultraviolet light for 40 minutes to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
The preparation method of the citric acid modified mixture is the same as in example 1.
Test example 1
Whitening, yellow-removing and moisturizing test:
the whitening, yellowing and moisturizing test of the skin care product is examined according to the following method: the skin care products prepared in example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention were used after washing the face of the human body in the morning and evening, respectively, and the skin care products were prepared by selecting 36 volunteers, not limited to men and women, and randomly, the volunteers had the same diet, and the skin brightness before and after the volunteers were tested using a color difference meter in a test period of 3 months, and each group was averaged, and the skin tenderness improvement was evaluated by observing the touch, and the evaluation was classified into three grades of obvious improvement, general effect and no change, and the test results are shown in table 1.
Table 1 whitening, anti-yellowing and moisturizing test results
( Remarks: + indicates an increase, -indicates a decrease, and the more the change in skin brightness indicates a better whitening effect )
As can be seen from comparison of examples 1 and comparative examples 2 to 4, the skin whitening effect of example 1 is better, and the skin tendering and smoothness improvement effects of comparative examples 3 to 5 are generally due to the effect of promoting absorption and utilization of the whitening and moisturizing substances by the skin after the papain and citric acid modified mixture is compounded, so that the skin whitening and yellowing effects are better. The citric acid modified mixture has the effects of moisture absorption and moisture preservation, acts on the inside of skin, enables the skin to be more moist and glossy, and can promote the skin care product to be absorbed by the skin, thereby effectively improving the rough skin condition and enabling the skin to be tender and smooth. Comparative example 5 comparative example 1 shows that the whitening effect is very different, and it is possible that the active extract contains various active substances to improve the brightness of skin, so as to achieve the effects of whitening and eliminating yellow.
Test example 2
Active permeation test:
the active substance of the invention takes alpha-lipoic acid as a test target substance through a test, and refers to journal papers (preparation of arbutin chitosan nanoparticle and in vitro transdermal absorption research, authors: wang Zanli,northwest journal of pharmacy, 2021, month 1), the specific steps are as follows: SD rats were sacrificed by removing abdominal hair and cutting the abdomen 3.14cm 2 Skin area, skin adipose tissue removal, washing with normal saline and removing excessive water, positioning cut mouse skin cutin layer facing the supply tank and dermis facing the receiving tank, fixing in Franz diffusion tank, maintaining the volume of receiving solution at 8mL normal saline at (32+ -0.5) deg.C, respectively collecting skin care product samples (each containing 7mg alpha-lipoic acid) and adding into the supply tank for transdermal experiment, collecting 0.5mL receiving solution from the receiving tank at 3 hr intervals, centrifuging to obtain supernatant, diluting to proper mass concentration, detecting and calculating alpha-lipoic acid concentration C by liquid chromatography i The cumulative transdermal amount is calculated as in formula 1.
V 0 -receiving volume (8 mL);
a- -skin transdermal area (3.14 cm) 2 )
TABLE 2 alpha lipoic acid 3 hours cumulative transdermal amount
Sample of Cumulative transdermal flux/μg cm 2
Example 1 296.3
Comparative example 1 289.8
Comparative example 2 267.6
Comparative example 3 278.1
Comparative example 4 100.1
Comparative example 5 290.6
By comparing example 1 with comparative examples 2 to 4, it was found that the cumulative permeation of alpha-lipoic acid of example 1 is superior to that of comparative examples 2 to 4, which is caused by the papain and citric acid modified mixture opening skin horny layer channels, promoting alpha-lipoic acid permeation through horny layer. When the papain and the citric acid modified mixture are compounded, the effect of promoting alpha-lipoic acid to penetrate through the stratum corneum is better than that of the papain and the citric acid modified mixture. Example 1 was compared with comparative example 1 and found that the cumulative transdermal amount of alpha-lipoic acid of example 1 was higher than that of comparative example 1, probably because the addition of limonene increased the rate of alpha-lipoic acid penetration through the stratum corneum.

Claims (5)

1. The whitening and yellow-removing skin care product is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 25-40% of active extract, 2-5% of pine needle extract, 0.05-0.54% of citric acid modified mixture, 5-10% of alpha-lipoic acid, 2-8% of orange leaf essential oil, 0.06-0.12% of papain, 5-10% of humectant, 0.2-0.8% of preservative and the balance of water;
the preparation method of the active extract comprises the following steps:
step 1, cleaning pumpkin leaves and cowberry leaves with water, drying until the pumpkin leaves and cowberry leaves can be kneaded, grinding and sieving to obtain pumpkin leaf powder and cowberry leaf powder, sealing and freezing for preservation;
step 2, mixing the cowberry leaf powder prepared in the step 1, the pumpkin leaf powder prepared in the step 1 and water, heating, stirring, condensing and refluxing to obtain a primary extraction mixture, stirring, heating, condensing and collecting volatile liquid at 55-75 ℃, and freeze-drying to obtain active volatile oil; heating and evaporating the rest primary extraction mixture until the volume is 1/4-1/2 of the original volume, adding absolute ethyl alcohol, stirring, heating, condensing and refluxing, filtering, collecting filtrate, heating and evaporating until solid appears in the filtrate, vacuum drying, mixing with active volatile oil, irradiating with ultraviolet light, sealing, freezing and preserving to obtain active extract;
the ratio of the pumpkin leaves to the bilberry She Chongliang is 200-500: 100-300 parts;
the citric acid modified mixture is obtained by mixing citric acid, absolute ethyl alcohol and chitosan, stirring for 30-60 minutes, stirring and heating at 95-105 ℃ until the absolute ethyl alcohol is completely evaporated; the weight ratio of the citric acid to the chitosan is 1 (4-8).
2. The whitening and yellow-removing skin care product as set forth in claim 1, wherein: the filtration was performed using one of water-based filter papers having pore diameters of 0.2 μm, 0.22 μm and 0.45 μm.
3. The whitening and yellow-removing skin care product as set forth in claim 1, wherein: the humectant is prepared from tea seed oil and hyaluronic acid in a weight ratio of 1.5: (0.1-1.2).
4. The whitening and yellow-removing skin care product as set forth in claim 1, wherein: the preservative is prepared from p-hydroxyacetophenone and limonene in a weight ratio of 1: (1-3).
5. The preparation method of the whitening and yellowing skin care product according to any one of claims 1-4, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: adding the active extract, the pine needle extract, the citric acid modified mixture, alpha-lipoic acid, orange leaf essential oil, papain, a humectant and a preservative into water, stirring for 30-90 minutes, homogenizing for 30-90 minutes, and irradiating with ultraviolet light for 30-60 minutes to obtain the whitening and yellow-removing skin care product.
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