CN114159370A - Application of oat fermentation extract in preparation of cosmetics - Google Patents

Application of oat fermentation extract in preparation of cosmetics Download PDF

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CN114159370A
CN114159370A CN202111634782.0A CN202111634782A CN114159370A CN 114159370 A CN114159370 A CN 114159370A CN 202111634782 A CN202111634782 A CN 202111634782A CN 114159370 A CN114159370 A CN 114159370A
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oat
fermentation
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亓云吉
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Shandong Huawutang Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

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Abstract

The invention provides an application of an oat fermented extract in preparation of cosmetics, wherein the cosmetics comprise the oat fermented extract and cosmetic auxiliary materials, the mass concentration of the oat fermented extract is 0.01-20% by mass percentage, and the cosmetic auxiliary materials comprise 0.02-0.2% of antioxidant and 0.1-5% of thickening agent. According to the application, the oat fermentation extract is compounded with the specific antioxidant and the thickening agent, so that the cosmetic containing the oat fermentation extract and having good stability, difficult color change and good use feeling is obtained, and the cosmetic has a good anti-wrinkle effect and can effectively delay the skin aging speed of a user.

Description

Application of oat fermentation extract in preparation of cosmetics
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to application of an oat fermentation extract as a cosmetic raw material in preparation of cosmetics.
Background
Oat is a grass family herbaceous plant and is one of important crops in China. Research shows that the oat has good biological activity and medicinal value, and can be used in the aspects of food, feed, medicine, cosmetics, industrial raw materials and the like. As a functional ingredient, oats contain various functional components such as proteins, unsaturated lipids, vitamins, polyphenols, alkaloids, saponins, etc., and also contain a large amount of antioxidants, mainly glutathione, polyphenols, phytic sterols, vitamins, etc. In addition, the oat also contains a large amount of beta-glucan, and the beta-glucan has the effects of resisting aging, removing wrinkles, promoting the regeneration of cuticle, healing wounds, fading scars, resisting allergy, diminishing inflammation and the like, and is one of the moisture retention components commonly used in cosmetics at present.
The applicant's prior patent CN113018239A provides an oat fermented extract and has demonstrated that the oat fermented extract has outstanding efficacy in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging. However, the applicant has raised new problems such as poor stability, easy color change and the like when the oat fermented extract is further applied to cosmetics, and the application and development of the oat fermented extract are limited.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems, the invention aims to provide an application of an oat fermented extract with anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects in cosmetics, and obtains the cosmetics containing the oat fermented extract with good stability and difficult discoloration by screening specific auxiliary material components.
On one hand, the application provides an application of an oat fermented extract in preparation of cosmetics, the cosmetics comprise the oat fermented extract and cosmetic auxiliary materials, the mass percent of the oat fermented extract is 0.01-20%, and the cosmetic auxiliary materials comprise 0.02-0.2% of antioxidant and 0.1-5% of thickening agent.
Optionally, the cosmetic auxiliary materials described herein may be any auxiliary materials including the antioxidant and the thickener in the above amounts, and it will be understood by those skilled in the art that other conventional auxiliary materials may be used to supplement the total amount to 100% when the amount is actually determined.
Further, the mass percentage of the oat fermentation extract is 0.05-10%, preferably 1-5%, and more preferably 5%.
Further, the oat fermented extract is prepared by adopting the following method: oat is used as a fermentation substrate, bifidobacteria are inoculated for anaerobic fermentation, and then microzyme is inoculated for aerobic fermentation to obtain the product; the fermentation substrate adopts oat fermentation culture solution containing 3-5% of oat by mass concentration, the bifidobacterium adopts bifidobacterium liquid with OD600 value of 8-10, the yeast adopts yeast liquid with OD600 value of 120-140, and the volume ratio of the oat fermentation culture solution, the bifidobacterium liquid and the yeast liquid is (4-6): 0.5-2.
Further, the antioxidant comprises sodium metabisulfite.
Sodium metabisulfite can play the multiple action of anti-oxidant and regulation pH value in this application, has solved cosmetics high temperature or has deposited the problem that easy oxidation turned yellow for a long time, has adjusted the pH value in the cosmetics system, makes its human skin average pH value of laminating, improves and uses experience.
Further, the thickener is selected from organic synthetic polymers, natural polymers and modified natural polymers;
preferably, the thickener is an organic synthetic polymer;
preferably, the organic synthetic polymer is selected from one or more of polyacrylic acids and acrylamide polymers.
Further, the organic synthetic polymer is selected from one or more of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, sodium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylamide and carbomer.
Preferably, the organic synthetic polymer is selected from one or more of SEPIMAX ZEN, PEMULEN TR-1 and SEPIGEL 305.
Preferably, the organic synthetic polymer thickener comprises the following components in a mass ratio of (0.4-0.5): SEPIMAX ZEN and SEPIGEL305 of (0.3-0.5).
Preferably, the natural polymer is selected from sodium hyaluronate and/or xanthan gum.
Experiments show that the SEPIMAX ZEN with strong ion resistance is selected as the thickening agent containing the oat fermentation extract system, so that a better thickening effect can be achieved. SEPIGEL305 and SEPIMAX ZEN can increase the stability of a product system in the above proportioning range, adjust the pH value in a cosmetic system to enable the pH value to be 5.8 on average by being attached to human skin, adjust the viscosity of the product and improve the use experience of a user. Furthermore, SEPIGEL305, SEPIMAX ZEN and sodium metabisulfite jointly form a cosmetic system which has good anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects, good stability, difficult discoloration and good use feeling.
Further, the cosmetic can be in the form of lotion, aqua, cream, gel, lotion, pack, and liniment.
Further, the cosmetic auxiliary materials comprise water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, an auxiliary emulsifier, a skin conditioner, a preservative and an auxiliary agent;
preferably, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, betaine, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, 1, 2-propanediol and sorbitol; the emollient is selected from one or more of shea butter, squalane, ethylhexyl palmitate, polydimethylsiloxane, peony seed oil, white oil, vaseline, cyclomethicone, jojoba oil, macadamia oil, isomeric hexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, octanoic acid, tridecyl alcohol trimellitate; the emulsifier or the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more selected from cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, glycerol monostearate, sorbitol monostearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, behenyl alcohol and PEG-20 stearate.
Optionally, the cosmetic auxiliary materials used in the application comprise 5-30% of a humectant, 3-20% of an emollient and 0.5-8.0% of an emulsifier.
Alternatively, in the present application, different cosmetic formulations can be prepared by adjusting the amounts of the above-mentioned adjuvants, for example.
Further, the preparation method of the cosmetic comprises the following steps: heating and homogenizing the cosmetic auxiliary materials, cooling to below 45 ℃, and adding the oat extract.
Optionally, the heating homogenization is to put the auxiliary materials for the cosmetics into a homogenizer and homogenize the mixture at 70-90 ℃ for 1-30 min.
Further, the cosmetics comprise anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmetics.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the application provides an application of oat fermented extract with anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects in cosmetics, and the obtained cosmetic containing the oat fermented extract is good in stability, not prone to discolor and good in use feeling, has a good anti-wrinkle effect, and can effectively delay the skin aging speed of a user.
2. Sodium metabisulfite can play the multiple action of anti-oxidant and regulation pH value in this application, has solved cosmetics high temperature or has deposited the problem that easily turns yellow for a long time, has further adjusted the pH value in the cosmetics system, makes its human skin average pH value of laminating, improves and uses experience.
3. The application adopts an ion-resistant thickener SEPIMAX ZEN, and solves the problems of difficult thickening and poor stability of products containing oat fermentation extracts.
4. In this application, sodium metabisulfite, SEPIMAX ZEN and SEPIGEL305 constitute compound system, can play thickening, anti-oxidant, increase stability, adjust the combined action of pH value, effectively increase the can the time of depositing that contains oat fermentation extract product, delay the product and turn yellow, improve the product and use the impression.
Drawings
The accompanying drawings, which are included to provide a further understanding of the application and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this application, illustrate embodiment(s) of the application and together with the description serve to explain the application and not to limit the application. In the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a graph of the change in MMP-1 content of an efficacy test for oat fermentation extract;
FIG. 2 is a graph of experimental results when 5% oat fermented extract was added to the emulsion, wherein C: a high-low temperature circulating group at the temperature of minus 15 ℃ to 48 ℃;
fig. 3 is a graph of the results of a 5% oat fermented extract and 0.2% sodium metabisulfite experiment in emulsion, where C: a high-low temperature circulating group at the temperature of minus 15 ℃ to 48 ℃;
fig. 4 is a graph of the results of a 5% oat fermented extract, 0.45% SEPIGEL305, 0.2% sodium metabisulfite, 0.5% SEPIMAX ZEN combination experiment, where C: a high-low temperature circulating group at the temperature of minus 15 ℃ to 48 ℃.
Detailed Description
In order to more clearly explain the overall concept of the present application, the following detailed description is given by way of example in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. In the following description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a more thorough understanding of the present invention. It will be apparent, however, to one skilled in the art, that the present invention may be practiced without one or more of these specific details. In other instances, well-known features have not been described in order to avoid obscuring the invention.
The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer.
In the following embodiments, reagents or instruments used are not indicated by manufacturers, and are all conventional products available by commercial purchase, unless otherwise specified.
The term "water" as used herein includes any available water that can be used in the cosmetic field such as deionized water, distilled water, ion-exchanged water, double distilled water, high purity water, purified water, etc.
Wherein, the laboratory glassware related includes: 15L and 50L automatic fermentation tanks provided by Shanghai national intensive Biochemical Equipment, LLC; process mass spectrometer provided by shunhui constant science instruments ltd; type 722 ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer; rotating the shaking table; the pH meter is provided by Shanghai apparatus, electroscience, Inc.; viscometers are available from Brookfield corporation, usa.
The oat fermented extract is prepared by the method of example 1 in patent CN113018239A, and specifically comprises the following steps, wherein in the following steps, the strains adopt Bifidobacterium aureofaciens HLXZ006 and Saccharomyces cerevisiae HLGJ4809 provided by national center for Biochemical engineering technology of China university of eastern science and technology:
step one, crushing oat to more than 100 meshes to obtain oat powder, dissolving, mixing and dispersing the oat powder by using normal-temperature purified water, gelatinizing the oat powder for about 5 minutes at 100 ℃, then cooling the oat powder to 85 ℃, adding 300U/L of liquefying enzyme for liquefying for 30 minutes, and preparing a fermentation culture solution by adding auxiliary materials, wherein the fermentation culture solution comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 3.5% of oat flour, 1.0% of yeast extract powder, 1.5% of peptone, 1.0% of diammonium hydrogen phosphate and 0.02% of defoaming agent; sterilizing the fermentation medium at 121 deg.C for 30 min;
step two, anaerobic fermentation:
supplementing glucose liquid into the oat fermentation culture solution obtained in the first step, controlling the initial glucose concentration to be 5g/L, placing the oat fermentation culture solution into a fermentation tank, introducing nitrogen into the fermentation tank to expel dissolved oxygen in the oat fermentation culture solution, and guiding the display value of a dissolved oxygen electrode to be below 0.6% until the dissolved oxygen electrode is stable;
inoculating a well-grown bifidobacterium aureum seed culture solution (the OD600 value is about 8) into a fermentation tank according to the volume ratio of 5:1 to an oat fermentation culture solution, controlling the temperature to be 36.5-37.5 ℃, the rotation speed of the fermentation tank to be 150rpm, keeping a certain tank pressure and anaerobic culture conditions by introducing nitrogen in the fermentation process, and intermittently controlling the pH to be 5.5 by using ammonia water (for example, once adjusting to be 5.5 when the pH is lower than 4.3);
when the sugar concentration is reduced to 0.4g/L, sugar supplement is started, the sugar supplement rate is controlled to be 0.2g/L/h, until the OD value of the fermentation liquor reaches 10.0, the sugar supplement rate is reduced to 0.1g/L/h, the content of lactic acid is controlled to be 5.8 +/-0.8 g/L by adjusting the sugar supplement rate, and the anaerobic fermentation time is 48 h;
step three, aerobic fermentation:
when the anaerobic fermentation index of the fermentation broth is reached, switching nitrogen gas fed into the fermentation tank into sterile air, controlling the aeration ratio to be 0.5-0.6 vvm, raising the dissolved oxygen back to 100%, and increasing the liquid sugar addition to raise the glucose concentration in the fermentation broth to 10 g/L;
inoculating the grown Saccharomyces cerevisiae seed culture solution (OD600 value is about 120) and the original oat fermentation culture solution into a fermentation tank at a volume ratio of 5:1, controlling the fermentation temperature to be 27.5-28.5 ℃, and the initial rotation speed to be 250 rpm; wherein, in the initial stage of the aerobic fermentation stage of the saccharomyces cerevisiae, the pH value shows an ascending trend, and when the pH value is reduced to 5.8, the ammonia water is automatically controlled to be 5.8-6.0;
controlling the dissolved oxygen concentration of the aerobic fermentation stage not less than 35 percent, controlling the ethanol concentration not more than 1.5g/L and controlling the residual sugar not more than 0.5g/L in the control process by adjusting the rotating speed and the aeration rate, and controlling the oxygen consumption rate (OUR) in the fermentation process at 60 +/-4.5 mmol/L/h through the sugar supplement rate, when the concentration of the residual sugar is reduced to 0.4g/L, the sugar supplement is started, the sugar supplement rate is 2g/L/h of the initial feeding rate, is adjusted to 2.5g/L/h after 2 hours, is adjusted to 4g/L/h after 4 hours, is adjusted to 5g/L/h after 6 hours, is adjusted to 4g/L/h after 12 hours, and when the OD value of the fermentation liquid reaches 115-120, controlling the sugar supplement rate at 2.5-3.0g/L/h until the total fermentation period reaches 96 hours;
step four, crushing the fermentation liquor obtained after the fermentation is finished by using a high-pressure homogenizer, wherein the homogenizing pressure is 1400-1500MPa, the wall breaking rate is more than 80% after 2-4 cycles, and the temperature is controlled to be not higher than 30 ℃ in the crushing process;
centrifuging and settling the fermentation liquor, concentrating to 25% of the original fermentation liquor volume, crushing by using a high-pressure homogenizer again, wherein the homogenizing pressure is 1400-1500MPa, the wall breaking rate is more than 90% after 2-4 cycles, and the temperature is controlled to be not higher than 30 ℃ in the crushing process;
filtering the homogenate liquid after the high-pressure homogenization treatment by using a 50-220 nanometer membrane to remove macromolecular proteins and microorganisms to obtain sterile filtrate, and preserving the sterile filtrate in a low-temperature storage tank for use, thus obtaining the oat fermentation extract.
Example 1 anti-wrinkle efficacy test of oat fermented extract
Fermented extract of Avena sativa L was prepared by the method of example 1 in patent CN 113018239A.
Preparing deionized water solution of oat fermentation extract, wherein the content of the oat fermentation extract in the solution is respectively 0, 0.2%, 1%, 2%, 5% and 10% by mass percent, and the content of MMP-1 is measured under the condition that the cytotoxic screening concentration is 0.01mg/ml, 0.04mg/ml and 0.2mg/ml, and the measurement results are shown in Table 1 and figure 1.
The MMP-1 content determination method of the oat fermentation extract comprises the following steps:
table 1 efficacy testing of oat fermentation extracts
Figure BDA0003441644160000071
The data in the table 1 show that the oat fermented extract can effectively reduce the expression of matrix metalloproteinase MMP-1 of the skin under the content of 0.2%, 1%, 2% and 5% and the cell concentration of 0.2mg/ml, 0.04mg/ml and 0.01mg/ml, and has the anti-wrinkle effect on human skin fibroblasts. When the addition amount of the oat fermentation extract is 5%, the anti-wrinkle effect is best.
Example 2 stability test of cosmetic containing fermented oat extract
Taking the emulsion as an example, the above experiment is carried out, and the experimental conclusion is further verified. The specific operation method comprises the following steps: 15% of humectant (8% of glycerin, 5% of butanediol, 1% of trehalose, 1% of sodium hyaluronate), 10% of emollient (5% of shea butter, 3% of squalane, 2% of ethylhexyl palmitate), 3% of emulsifier (2% of stearyl alcohol, 1% of cetyl alcohol), 1% of skin conditioner (nicotinamide) and the balance of water, uniformly mixing, heating and homogenizing at 80 ℃, cooling to below 45 ℃, and respectively adding 0%, 1%, 2% and 5% of oat fermentation extract in the total mass according to the mass percentage.
The emulsion containing the oat fermented extract was subjected to viscosity and pH tests, centrifuged at 2000r/min for 30min, stored at-15 ℃, 5 ℃, 25 ℃, 48 ℃, and-15 ℃ to 48 ℃ high and low temperature circulating temperatures for 3 months under the same conditions, and the system stability and color change were observed, with the results shown in table 2 and fig. 2.
TABLE 2 Single factor test results of oat fermentation extract in emulsion
Figure BDA0003441644160000081
As can be seen from the results of table 2 and fig. 2, the cream system containing the fermented extract of oats was affected by the fermented extract content of oats and the temperature. When the addition amount of the oat fermentation extract reaches 5%, the emulsion stored at the temperature of 48 ℃ has an unstable layering phenomenon. That is, when the fermented extract of oats reaches a certain content, the stability of the system gradually deteriorates as the storage temperature increases.
Along with the increase of the addition amount of the oat fermented extract, the color of the cream system is also influenced to a certain extent. When the addition amount is 2%, slight yellowing of the emulsion occurs when the emulsion is placed at 25 ℃ and 48 ℃ for 1 month. When the addition amount is 5%, yellowing occurs when the mixture is placed at a temperature of 48 ℃ for 3 days. That is, when the fermented extract of oats reaches a certain content, the emulsion system containing the fermented extract of oats is more likely to be colored with the increase of temperature.
Example 3 Single factor experiment of antioxidant type and content in cosmetic containing fermented oat extract
To solve the problem of severe discoloration of emulsion systems containing oat fermented extract, the present application attempts to retard discoloration by the addition of antioxidants.
Single factor experiments were performed with antioxidant type as variable. Taking an emulsion as an example, the specific operation method is the same as that in example 2, except that 5% by mass of oat fermented extract and 0.05% by mass of different types of antioxidants are added respectively.
Further, a one-way experiment was performed with the sodium metabisulfite content as a variable. The specific operation method comprises the following steps: taking emulsion as an example, respectively adding 0.1% of sodium metabisulfite, 0.2% of humectant, 5% of emollient, 5% of emulsifier and the balance of water, uniformly mixing, heating at 80 ℃ for homogenizing, cooling to below 45 ℃, and adding oat fermentation extract accounting for 5% of the total mass by mass. Wherein, the humectant, the emollient and the emulsifier can be selected from common auxiliary materials of the emulsion, and can be selected by the technical personnel according to the situation.
The emulsion containing the fermented extract of oats was subjected to viscosity and pH tests, centrifuged at 2000r/min for 30min, and then stored under high and low temperature cycles of-15 deg.C, 5 deg.C, 25 deg.C, 48 deg.C, and-15 deg.C to 48 deg.C for 3 months under the same conditions, and the stability and color change were observed, and the results are shown in Table 3 and FIG. 3.
TABLE 3 antioxidant Single factor test results
Figure BDA0003441644160000091
Figure BDA0003441644160000101
From the results of table 3 and fig. 3, it can be seen that sodium metabisulfite is effective in solving the problem that the emulsion is easily yellowed among four different antioxidants, sodium metabisulfite, ascorbic acid, tea polyphenol and ascorbyl palmitate. And with the increase of the content of sodium metabisulfite, the discoloration of an emulsion system containing the oat fermentation extract is effectively delayed, and the pH value of the system is further adjusted.
Wherein, when the content of the sodium metabisulfite is 0.2 percent, the color of the emulsion system is changed most slowly. However, as can be seen from Table 3, the emulsion system becomes inferior in centrifugal stability and the viscosity decreases as the amount of sodium metabisulfite added increases.
Example 4 oat fermentation extract thickening experiment
To solve the above problems, the present application attempts to improve the centrifugal stability of the system by adding a thickener.
The fermented oat extract was added to various thickeners in an amount of 0, 0.2%, 1%, 2%, 5%, 10% by mass, and the viscosity and pH of the mixture were measured, and the results are shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 thickening test results of oat fermentation extract
Figure BDA0003441644160000111
From Table 4, the fermented oat extract has a certain viscosity-reducing effect in different thickeners, wherein the fermented oat extract has a significant viscosity-reducing effect on 0.5% of CARBOPOL 981 and TEA thickening system, 0.5% of PEMULEN TR-1 and TEA thickening system, 2% of SEPIPLUS 400 thickening system and 1.5% of SIMULGEL EG thickening system, and the viscosity in the mixed agent is reduced along with the increase of the added amount of the extract, namely the viscosity-reducing effect on the thickener is more significant when the added amount of the extract is higher. Whereas the oat fermented extract had minimal effect on the viscosity of the 1% SEPIMAX ZEN thickening system.
Moreover, the pH value of the thickening agent is changed along with the increase of the addition amount of the fermentation extract, and the pH values of different thickening agents are changed differently and in different change ranges. Among these, the oat fermented extract had minimal effect on the pH of the 1% SEPIMAX ZEN thickening system, which was the same conclusion as the viscosity test described above.
Presumably, because the oat fermentation extract was highly ionic, selection of SEPIMAX ZEN having high ionic resistance as a thickener containing the oat fermentation extract system could provide a better thickening effect.
In addition, the addition of the oat fermented extract can change the color of the solution per se, and the higher the content of the fermented extract, the darker the color of the solution.
Example 5 oat fermentation extract thickener compatibility test
Thickener compatibility experiments were performed using as an example an emulsion having poor centrifugal stability after the addition of sodium metabisulfite.
Single factor experiments were performed with SEPIMAX ZEN content as variable. The specific operation method comprises the following steps: respectively adding 0.2% of sodium metabisulfite, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.5% of SEPIMAX ZEN, 10% of humectant, 5% of emollient, 5% of emulsifier and the balance of water according to mass percentage, uniformly mixing, heating at 80 ℃ for homogenizing, cooling to below 45 ℃, and adding 5% of oat fermentation extract. Wherein, the humectant, the emollient and the emulsifier can be selected from common auxiliary materials of the emulsion, and can be selected by the technical personnel according to the situation.
Taking SEPIGEL305 content as variable, carrying out compatibility experiment with sodium pyrosulfite and SEPIMAX ZEN, and determining the optimal addition amount. The specific operation method comprises the following steps: respectively adding 0.2% of sodium metabisulfite, 0.5% of SEPIMAXZEN, 0.3%, 0.35%, 0.4% and 0.45% of SEPIGEL305, 10% of humectant, 5% of emollient, 5% of emulsifier and the balance of water according to mass percentage, uniformly mixing, heating at 80 ℃ for homogenizing, cooling to below 45 ℃, and adding 5% of oat fermentation extract. Wherein, the humectant, the emollient and the emulsifier can be selected from common auxiliary materials of the emulsion, and can be selected by the technical personnel according to the situation.
The emulsion containing the fermented extract of oats was subjected to viscosity and pH tests, centrifuged at 2000 rpm for 30min, stored under high and low temperature cycling conditions of-15 deg.C, 5 deg.C, 25 deg.C, 48 deg.C, 15 deg.C to 48 deg.C, and stored under the same conditions for 3 months, and the stability and color change were observed, with the results shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 oat fermentation extract thickener compatibility test results
Figure BDA0003441644160000121
Figure BDA0003441644160000131
As can be seen from the results of example 4, the fermented extract of oats has a certain impact on the thickening system of the product. From the results of table 5, it can be seen that the problem of system stability can be improved by adding a thickener. When the addition amount of SEPIMAX ZEN reaches 0.3% -0.5% at 25 ℃, the centrifugal stability test is successful, and is most stable at 0.5%, and the use feeling is easily influenced because the product is too viscous. However, at a high temperature of 48 ℃, the problem of delamination caused by unstable centrifugation still exists.
Therefore, SEPIGEL305 is added in the application for compounding, the viscosity and the pH value of the system are further adjusted, and the use feeling of the product is further improved.
Using the emulsion as an example, the product containing fermented extract of oats was subjected to a combination experiment of sodium metabisulfite, SEPIMAX ZEN and SEPIGEL305, and the results are shown in Table 5 and FIG. 4. It can be seen that SEPIGEL305 is most effective when added at 0.45%, and can be combined with 5% fermented oat extract, 0.2% sodium metabisulfite, and 0.5% SEPIMAXZEN to form a cosmetic system with good anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, stability, discoloration resistance, and use feeling.
Example 6 aqueous formulation of oat fermentation extract
Respectively adding 0.05-0.2% of sodium metabisulfite, 0.1-0.15% of carbomer and deionized water according to the mass percentage, uniformly mixing, and then adding 0.1-5% of oat fermentation extract to obtain the anti-wrinkle anti-aging water agent containing the oat fermentation extract.
Wherein, the selective addition of other conventional auxiliary materials can be carried out by the technical personnel in the field according to the situation.
Example 7 oat fermentation extract cream formulation
Respectively adding 0.2 percent of sodium metabisulfite, 0.5 percent of SEPIMAX ZEN, 0.45 percent of SEPIGEL305, 2 to 30 percent of humectant, 3 to 20 percent of emollient and 0.5 to 8 percent of emulsifier according to mass percentage, heating and homogenizing at 80 ℃, cooling to below 45 ℃, and adding 5 percent of oat fermentation extract to obtain the anti-wrinkle anti-aging cream containing the oat fermentation extract.
Wherein, the humectant, the emollient and the emulsifier can be selected from common auxiliary materials of the emulsion, and can be selected by the technical personnel according to the situation.
For example, the humectant may be selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, betaine, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, 1, 2-propanediol, sorbitol, etc., the emollient may be selected from shea butter, squalane, ethylhexyl palmitate, dimethicone, peony seed oil, white oil, petrolatum, cyclomethicone, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, isomeric hexadecanes, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic acid, tridecyl trimellitate, etc., the emulsifier or co-emulsifier can be selected from cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, glyceryl monostearate, sorbitol monostearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, behenyl alcohol, PEG-20 stearate, etc.
The above description is only an example of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application. Various modifications and changes may occur to those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present application should be included in the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims (10)

1. The application of the oat fermented extract in preparing cosmetics is characterized in that the cosmetics comprise the oat fermented extract and cosmetic auxiliary materials, wherein the oat fermented extract accounts for 0.01-20% by mass, and the cosmetic auxiliary materials comprise 0.02-0.2% of antioxidant and 0.1-5% of thickening agent.
2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass percentage of said fermented extract of oats is comprised between 0.05% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 5%, more preferably between 5%.
3. The use according to claim 1, wherein the fermented extract of oats is prepared by a method comprising: oat is used as a fermentation substrate, bifidobacteria are inoculated for anaerobic fermentation, and then microzyme is inoculated for aerobic fermentation to obtain the product; the fermentation substrate adopts oat fermentation culture solution containing 3-5% of oat by mass concentration, the bifidobacterium adopts bifidobacterium liquid with OD600 value of 8-10, the yeast adopts yeast liquid with OD600 value of 120-140, and the volume ratio of the oat fermentation culture solution, the bifidobacterium liquid and the yeast liquid is (4-6): 0.5-2.
4. Use according to claim 1, wherein the antioxidant comprises sodium metabisulphite.
5. Use according to claim 1, wherein the thickener is selected from the group consisting of organic synthetic polymers, natural polymers and modified natural polymers;
preferably, the thickener is an organic synthetic polymer; more preferably, the organic synthetic polymer is selected from one or more of polyacrylic acids and acrylamide polymers.
6. The use according to claim 5, wherein the organic synthetic polymer is selected from one or more of polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, (ester) acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacryl dimethyl taurate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer.
7. The use of claim 1, wherein the cosmetic formulation comprises an emulsion, lotion, cream, gel, lotion, mask, and liniment.
8. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic adjuvants comprise water, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, skin conditioners, preservatives and adjuvants;
preferably, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, betaine, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, 1, 2-propanediol and sorbitol; the emollient is selected from one or more of shea butter, squalane, ethylhexyl palmitate, polydimethylsiloxane, peony seed oil, white oil, vaseline, cyclomethicone, jojoba oil, macadamia oil, isomeric hexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, octanoic acid, tridecyl alcohol trimellitate; the emulsifier or the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more selected from cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, glycerol monostearate, sorbitol monostearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, behenyl alcohol and PEG-20 stearate.
9. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation process comprises: heating and homogenizing the cosmetic auxiliary materials, cooling to below 45 ℃, and adding the oat extract.
10. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that said cosmetic product comprises an anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing cosmetic product.
CN202111634782.0A 2021-12-29 2021-12-29 Application of oat fermentation extract in preparation of cosmetics Pending CN114159370A (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105296541A (en) * 2014-07-30 2016-02-03 无限极(中国)有限公司 Oat fermentation liquor, preparation method thereof and application of oat fermentation liquor as cosmetic raw material
CN109260126A (en) * 2018-12-03 2019-01-25 陈雄 A kind of anti-aging emulsion cosmetic
EP3485870A1 (en) * 2017-11-20 2019-05-22 Thorel, Jean-Noël Stabilising cosmetic composition for reducing the degradation of unstable cosmetic active ingredients
CN113018239A (en) * 2021-03-30 2021-06-25 山东花物堂生物科技有限公司 Oat fermentation extract and preparation method and application thereof
CN113197789A (en) * 2021-04-30 2021-08-03 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 Astaxanthin antioxidant essence milk with stable quality and preparation method thereof
CN113430148A (en) * 2021-07-30 2021-09-24 华熙生物科技股份有限公司 Fermentation medium of animal bifidobacterium and application thereof
CN113509427A (en) * 2021-07-30 2021-10-19 山东花物堂生物科技有限公司 Accurate control method for oat fermentation extract preparation process

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105296541A (en) * 2014-07-30 2016-02-03 无限极(中国)有限公司 Oat fermentation liquor, preparation method thereof and application of oat fermentation liquor as cosmetic raw material
EP3485870A1 (en) * 2017-11-20 2019-05-22 Thorel, Jean-Noël Stabilising cosmetic composition for reducing the degradation of unstable cosmetic active ingredients
CN109260126A (en) * 2018-12-03 2019-01-25 陈雄 A kind of anti-aging emulsion cosmetic
CN113018239A (en) * 2021-03-30 2021-06-25 山东花物堂生物科技有限公司 Oat fermentation extract and preparation method and application thereof
CN113197789A (en) * 2021-04-30 2021-08-03 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 Astaxanthin antioxidant essence milk with stable quality and preparation method thereof
CN113430148A (en) * 2021-07-30 2021-09-24 华熙生物科技股份有限公司 Fermentation medium of animal bifidobacterium and application thereof
CN113509427A (en) * 2021-07-30 2021-10-19 山东花物堂生物科技有限公司 Accurate control method for oat fermentation extract preparation process

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