Long-acting moisturizing composition and application thereof in cosmetics
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetic compositions, and particularly relates to a long-acting moisturizing composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
With the improvement of living standard, facial skin care is receiving more and more attention. Skin care is firstly to supplement moisture to skin, the skin with elasticity, smoothness and moisture is largely attributed to moisture in the skin, and the skin lack of water can reduce the metabolism of skin cells, so that the problems of fine lines, darkness and the like of the skin are caused. Moisturizing skin care products are an important part of daily care of people, and are more and more favored by people along with the continuous improvement of cosmetic research and development technologies. With the increasing importance on the safety of cosmetics, the use of natural cosmetic raw materials is more popular.
At present, moisturizing skin care products in the market are various in variety, but the problem of poor persistence exists in most of the moisturizing skin care products, and the effect of continuously and efficiently moisturizing for 12 hours is difficult to achieve. Generally, people are out of the skin care products for 12 hours, and if the skin care products used in the morning cannot maintain the continuous and efficient moisturizing effect for 12 hours, a series of skin problems are easy to occur.
China has rich seaweed resources, seaweed contains rich bioactive substances, and a large amount of development and application are achieved, so that the wide application of modern scientific technology brings brand-new development opportunities to the cosmetic industry. Fucus vesiculosus belongs to brown algae, Gigartina astrataea is also a deep-sea plant extract, and Anabaena ocellata is a filamentous blue-green algae.
The extracts of the three seaweeds obtained by the conventional extraction method carry more impurities, have more complex structures and reduce the utilization rate of the moisture-retaining components. At present, the combination of Fucus vesiculosus, Gigartina asteralis and Anabaena pseudobaena in cosmetics for moisturizing is hardly reported.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a composition for moisturizing.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a composition for use in cosmetics.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a moisturizing cream that is safe and non-irritating.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a high-efficiency moisturizing cream.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following specific scheme:
in one aspect, the present invention provides a moisturizing composition comprising a fermentation-treated fucus extract, a taxus asteroides extract, a anabaena extract as active ingredients.
The three seaweeds are fermented in a combined manner, and various functional components are synergistic, so that a good moisturizing effect is achieved.
In a preferred embodiment, the weight percentages of the fucus extract, the taxus asteroides extract and the anabaena sargenti extract are respectively 10-50%, 10-50% and 10-50%.
In a more preferred embodiment, the fucus extract, the taxus asterias extract and the anabaena extract are respectively 20-40%, 20-40% and 20-40% by weight.
As an alternative embodiment, the fermentation-treated fucus extract, taxus asteroides extract and anabaena ocellata extract are obtained by the following steps:
(1) adding water into Fucus vesiculosus powder, Gigartina asteralis powder, and Anabaena digitata powder, and extracting to obtain extractive solution;
(2) preparing a fermentation liquid by adding a fermentation component to the extracting solution in the step (1);
(3) the fermentation broth is autoclaved, cooled and then inoculated with bacillus licheniformis and aspergillus oryzae for fermentation to produce the active ingredient.
As a preferred embodiment, the fermentation-treated fucus extract, taxus asteroides extract, or anabaena ocellata extract is obtained by the following steps:
(1) algae pretreatment: adding water 7-12 times of the total mass of fucus vesiculosus powder, taxus asterism powder and anabaena ocellata powder into the fucus vesiculosus powder, extracting for 4-6 hours at 100-120 ℃, and taking supernatant;
(2) preparing fermentation liquor: adding cane sugar, yeast extract, soybean meal, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and magnesium sulfate into the supernatant obtained in the step (1), wherein the addition amounts of the cane sugar, the yeast extract, the soybean meal, the dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and the magnesium sulfate are respectively 3.0-5.0%, 1.0-3.0%, 0.5-1.5%, 0.1-0.5% and 0.05% of the mass of the supernatant;
(3) fermentation: sterilizing the culture medium under high pressure for 1-1.5 MPa for 30-60 min, cooling, inoculating bacillus licheniformis and aspergillus oryzae in an amount of 3-5% and 2-4% of the volume of the inoculated liquid respectively, controlling the fermentation temperature to 25-35 ℃, and adjusting the pH to 6.8 ℃
7.2, the ventilation amount is 10-20L/min, the rotating speed is 150-250 rpm, and the fermentation is carried out for 7-12 h.
(4) After fermentation, concentrating and filtering to obtain filtrate as liquid extract to obtain the required fermented product.
The moisturizing composition of the present invention is mainly applied to cosmetics, but specific cosmetics are not particularly limited. The cosmetic can be moisturizing cream, moisturizing milk, moisturizing essence, and moisturizing lotion; but is particularly preferably a moisturizer.
As an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic product of the invention contains a component capable of causing the product to form a liquid crystal structure.
As a preferred embodiment, the ingredient capable of forming the liquid crystal structure of the cosmetic of the present invention may be selected from emulsifiers, but is not limited thereto.
As a further preferred embodiment, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of hydrogenated lecithin, cetearyl glucoside, polysorbate-60;
as a more preferred embodiment, the emulsifier comprises at least one of hydrogenated lecithin and cetearyl glucoside.
As a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic comprises 0.5 to 10% by weight of the emulsifier; preferably, it is 2-6%.
As an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic comprises 1 to 20% by weight of the composition.
In a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises 2 to 10% by weight of the composition.
In a further aspect, the invention provides a moisturizing cream containing the composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
humectant: 0.5-20 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
thickening agent: 0.05 to 2.5 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
and (3) an emollient: 1 to 40 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
emulsifier: 0.5-10 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
chelating agent: 0.01 to 1 percent of the total weight of the composition,
preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent of the total weight of the composition,
essence: 0.01 to 0.4 percent,
the balance being water.
As a preferred embodiment, the moisturizing cream comprises the following components in parts by weight:
humectant: 8 to 15 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
thickening agent: 0.5 to 1.5 percent of,
and (3) an emollient: 15-30 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
emulsifier: 2 to 6 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
chelating agent: 0.03 to 0.07 percent of the total weight of the composition,
preservative: 0.3 to 0.8 percent,
essence: 0.05 to 0.15 percent,
the balance being water.
As a preferred embodiment, the thickener is selected from one or more of carbomer, xanthan gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose enoyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, and acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer.
As a preferred embodiment, the emollient is selected from one or more of the group consisting of tri (ethyl hexanoate) glyceride, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetostearyl alcohol, shea butter, behenyl alcohol, myristyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, silicone oil, and silicone elastomer.
As a more preferred embodiment, the silicone oil is selected from one or more of polydimethylsiloxane, dimethicone alcohol and cyclopentadecyldimethylsiloxane.
As a more preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer is selected from one or more of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, polysiloxane-11, and PEG-10 dimethicone crosspolymer.
As a preferred embodiment, the preservative is selected from one or more of methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and propylparaben.
More preferably, the preservative is selected from methylparaben and phenoxyethanol.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the moisturizing cream prepared by the composition can achieve a long-acting moisturizing effect for 12 hours, can be quickly spread and absorbed, and the skin content can be maintained at a higher value in 12 hours. Moreover, the skin care product is relatively low in irritation, can be quickly spread and absorbed, and is fresh and cool in skin feeling.
2. The hydrogenated lecithin used in the invention is derived from soybean extract, and the cetearyl glucoside is a natural polysaccharide, and the natural emulsifier can reduce the irritation of the skin and generate a liquid crystal structure, and the cosmetic containing the liquid crystal structure has good stability, can prolong the hydration and closure effects and improves the moisturizing performance. The liquid crystal structure can slowly release the active ingredient added in the dispersed phase, and can make the efficacy be sustained.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention are further illustrated by the following specific examples, which do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention. Insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention by others of the concepts fall within the scope of the invention.
In the present document, the term "fermentation-treated fucus extract, taxus asteroides extract, anabaena ocellata extract" refers to an extract obtained by the following steps: fermenting the seaweed with a fermenting organism to obtain a fermented seaweed extract. The extract is classified into a yeast fermentation-treated seaweed extract and a lactic acid bacteria fermentation-treated seaweed extract according to the kind of fermenting organism. Yeasts are preferably used as fermenting organisms in the present invention. When yeast is used as the fermenting organism, the extracts are understood to be the yeast fermentation treated fucus extract, taxus asterias extract and anabaena vulgaris extract, respectively.
Example 1 preparation of yeast fermentation treated seaweed extract 1
(1) Three-seaweed pretreatment: adding water with the mass 8 times of that of seaweed into 30 parts of Fucus vesiculosus powder, 30 parts of Gigartina asteris powder and 40 parts of Anabaena powder, extracting at 110 deg.C for 5 hr, and collecting supernatant.
(2) Preparing fermentation liquor: adding sucrose, yeast extract, soybean meal, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and magnesium sulfate into the supernatant obtained in the step (1), wherein the addition amounts of the sucrose, the yeast extract, the soybean meal, the dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and the magnesium sulfate are respectively 4%, 2%, 1%, 0.3% and 0.05% of the mass of the supernatant.
(3) And (3) fermenting, namely sterilizing a culture medium under high pressure (1MPa for 30min), cooling, inoculating the bacillus licheniformis and the aspergillus oryzae, wherein the inoculation amount is 4% and 3% of the inoculation liquid volume respectively, controlling the fermentation temperature to be 27 +/-2 ℃, the pH to be 7.2, the ventilation amount to be 10-20L/min, rotating speed to be 180rpm, and fermenting for 12 h.
(4) After fermentation, concentrating and filtering to obtain a filtrate to obtain a liquid extract, namely the required seaweed extract 1.
Example 2 preparation of yeast fermentation treated seaweed extract 2
(1) Three-seaweed pretreatment: adding water 10 times the weight of Sargassum into Fucus vesiculosus powder 40 parts, Gigartina asteroides powder 30 parts, and Anabaena digitata powder 30 parts, extracting at 115 deg.C for 6 hr, and collecting supernatant.
(2) Preparing fermentation liquor: adding sucrose, yeast extract, soybean meal, dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and magnesium sulfate into the supernatant obtained in the step (1), wherein the addition amounts of the sucrose, the yeast extract, the soybean meal, the dipotassium hydrogen phosphate and the magnesium sulfate are respectively 3%, 1.2%, 0.2% and 0.05% of the mass of the supernatant.
(3) And (3) fermenting, namely, autoclaving (1MPa for 30min) a culture medium, cooling, inoculating the bacillus licheniformis and the aspergillus oryzae, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% and 4% of the inoculation liquid volume respectively, controlling the fermentation temperature to be 29 +/-2 ℃, the pH to be 7.1, the ventilation amount to be 10-20L/min, rotating speed to be 200rpm, and fermenting for 10 h.
(4) After fermentation, concentrating and filtering to obtain a filtrate to obtain a liquid extract, namely the required seaweed extract 2.
Comparative example 1 preparation of yeast fermentation-treated seaweed extract 3
The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that only Bacillus licheniformis was inoculated in step (3) to prepare the fermented seaweed extract 3.
Comparative examples 2-4 preparation of Yeast fermentation-treated seaweed extracts 4-6
(1) Comparative example 2
The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the algal species and the algal mass in step (1) were replaced with Fucus vesiculosus powder (50 parts) and Asterina asteroides powder (50 parts), respectively, to obtain the desired algal extract (4).
(2) Comparative example 3
The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the kind and mass of the seaweed were changed to 100 parts by weight of the fucus powder in the step (1), to obtain the desired seaweed extract 5.
(3) Comparative example 4
The same procedure as in example 1 was repeated except that the kind and mass of the seaweed were changed to 100 parts by weight of the powder of the Asterina asteroides in step (1), to obtain the desired seaweed extract 6.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 5 preparation of seaweed extract 7 (prepared by conventional separation and extraction method)
Adding water with the mass 8 times of that of seaweed into 30 parts of Fucus vesiculosus powder, 30 parts of Gigartina asteris powder and 40 parts of Anabaena powder, extracting at 110 deg.C for 5 hr, and collecting supernatant. Concentrating, filtering, and collecting filtrate to obtain liquid extract to obtain the desired seaweed extract 7.
Examples 3-5 high-efficiency moisturizing cream containing fermented seaweed extract
Table 1 composition of the formulations (weight percent)
Comparative test
TABLE 2 ingredient content (weight percent) of the formulation
The method of preparation of the moisturizer in table 2:
1) and (3) putting the phase A into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly stirring.
2) And putting the phase B into a proper container, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and homogenizing and stirring until the phase B is uniformly dispersed.
3) Cooling to 60-65 ℃, adding the phase C, stirring and homogenizing for 5min, and stirring uniformly.
4) And continuously cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the phase D, stirring and homogenizing for 5min, and stirring uniformly.
5) Cooling to room temperature, stirring uniformly and discharging.
Example 6 high-efficiency moisturizing cream moisturizing effect test containing fermentation-treated seaweed extract
The experimental design is that 24 effective subjects are selected for testing in each example, before the test, the subjects are uniformly cleaned by workers on the inner sides of the forearms of the hands, the inner sides of the forearms of the subjects are marked by group number measuring areas, the area of the test area is 3cm × 3cm, the skin stratum corneum moisture is tested for initial value (0h), the products are smeared on the inner sides of the forearms of the subjects, the dosage of the products is (0.0171-0.0189) g, the sample area and a blank control area (without smearing samples) are randomly distributed on the inner side areas of the left or right forearms of the volunteers according to the test areas, the skin moisture content measuring probes are used for testing the skin stratum corneum moisture content for the 2h, the 4h, the 6h, the 8h, the 10h and the 12h, and the results are marked as nh (n is 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12).
TABLE 3 test results
As can be seen from the data in Table 3, the stratum corneum of the skin can be maintained at a high moisture content value within 12 hours after the cream of the present invention is applied, and can have a very long-lasting moisturizing effect.
When the seaweed fermentation extract is prepared, aspergillus oryzae is not added to inoculated strains in fermentation conditions, and only bacillus licheniformis is added, the obtained extract is applied to preparation of moisturizing cream, compared with examples 3-5, the moisturizing cream has poor moisturizing effect, and long-acting moisturizing cannot be achieved.
When three kinds of seaweed in the seaweed extract are removed one of Anabaena digitata, or two kinds of Anabaena astrotricha and Anabaena digitata powder, or two kinds of Fucus vesiculosus and Anabaena digitata powder, the corresponding obtained seaweed fermentation extract is used for preparing the moisturizing cream, compared with the invention, the moisturizing effect of the seaweed fermentation extract is greatly reduced. When the seaweed fermentation extraction composition is used for preparing the moisturizing cream, the synergistic effect is achieved.
In addition, when the three seaweed extract compositions of the present invention are prepared by conventional extraction methods, the moisturizing cream prepared therefrom has the moisturizing effect that meets the desired effects of the present invention.
Of course, the moisturizing cream prepared by the method does not achieve the required moisturizing effect when the seaweed fermentation extract is not added.
In addition, when the fermentation extract of the present invention is used in combination with an emulsifier capable of forming a liquid crystal structure, the moisturizing effect can be further enhanced.
In conclusion, when the fermentation conditions do not meet the standards, the seaweed fermentation extract is not added, and only two seaweeds or one seaweed fermentation extract is added, the moisture content of the skin cuticle after the cream is used cannot reach a higher value. When the liquid crystal structure is not formed, the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin can reach a high value, but the moisture content cannot be maintained for a long time, and the moisture content tends to gradually decrease within 12 hours.