CN113244141A - Essence cream for repairing skin barrier function and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Essence cream for repairing skin barrier function and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113244141A CN113244141A CN202110524888.9A CN202110524888A CN113244141A CN 113244141 A CN113244141 A CN 113244141A CN 202110524888 A CN202110524888 A CN 202110524888A CN 113244141 A CN113244141 A CN 113244141A
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- China
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- skin
- weight
- parts
- lecithin
- essence cream
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 12
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 240000007817 Olea europaea Species 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 241000221095 Simmondsia Species 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 235000004433 Simmondsia californica Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-URKRLVJHSA-N (2s,3r,4s,5s,6r)-2-[(2r,4r,5r,6s)-4,5-dihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)-6-[(2r,4r,5r,6s)-4,5,6-trihydroxy-2-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-3-yl]oxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H](OC2[C@H](O[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]2O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FYGDTMLNYKFZSV-URKRLVJHSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920002498 Beta-glucan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 12
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- 229920002385 Sodium hyaluronate Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- MIUIRGGKIICMBP-NFOZDHADSA-N [27-oxo-27-[[(2s,3s,4r)-1,3,4-trihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl]amino]heptacosyl] octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC MIUIRGGKIICMBP-NFOZDHADSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229940048864 ceramide 1 Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920002643 polyglutamic acid Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 25
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- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 claims description 7
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
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- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
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- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 229960003160 hyaluronic acid Drugs 0.000 description 3
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- NTYJJOPFIAHURM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Histamine Chemical compound NCCC1=CN=CN1 NTYJJOPFIAHURM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N N-(2-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-4-hydroxysphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCC BBAFBDLICMHBNU-MFZOPHKMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N N-oleoylphytosphingosine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- QYSXJUFSXHHAJI-XFEUOLMDSA-N Vitamin D3 Natural products C1(/[C@@H]2CC[C@@H]([C@]2(CCC1)C)[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)=C/C=C1\C[C@@H](O)CCC1=C QYSXJUFSXHHAJI-XFEUOLMDSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/88—Polyamides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
Landscapes
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicinal Preparation (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of skin care, and particularly discloses an essence cream for repairing skin barrier function and a preparation method thereof, the essence cream adopts compound grease (jojoba seed oil, shea butter and olive extract) with excellent skin-friendly property to form a involucra protective layer on damaged skin in a short time, the damaged skin is relieved in time, the short-time water retention capacity of the skin is improved, a skin-imitated involucra similar to a skin membrane is formed on the surface of the skin by combining ceramide-1, cholesterol and lecithin, the skin barrier is repaired, meanwhile, high-moisture-retention components formed by compounding acetylated sodium hyaluronate and polyglutamic acid cooperate with each other to achieve high-efficiency moisture retention, local inflammation and pain are reduced by beta-glucan, and a layered liquid crystal emulsification system formed by lecithin and emulsification components is added to improve the ductility, moisture retention, repair capacity and the like of the product, the essential cream has excellent synergistic effects of barrier repair and moisture preservation, is mild and non-irritant in action, and effectively avoids the burden of the product on the skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of skin care, in particular to an essence cream for repairing skin barrier function and a preparation method thereof.
Background
At present, due to various factors such as fast-paced high-pressure modern life, disordered daily life and rest, poor living habits, increasingly polluted urban environment, cosmetics abuse, smoking and drinking, more and more people's skins become sensitive skins, the barriers are seriously damaged, subjective symptoms such as burning, stabbing pain, pruritus and tightness easily appear on the skins when the skins are stimulated by physical, chemical, mental and other factors, and objective signs such as erythema, rash, telangiectasia and the like are sometimes accompanied.
At present, skin barrier repair products on the market have poor effect, or the skin barrier repair products have irritation to improve the repair effect, cause secondary damage to damaged skin and further cause more serious problem of skin barrier damage.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide the essence cream with good anti-allergy repair effect and safe effect for repairing the skin barrier function and the preparation method thereof aiming at the existing technical current situation.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the invention provides an essence cream for repairing skin barrier function, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
12.0-6.0 parts by weight of ceramide; 2.0 to 8.0 parts by weight of cholesterol; 2.0-8.0 parts by weight of lecithin; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of beta-glucan; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of acetylated sodium hyaluronate; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of polyglutamic acid; 2.0-8.0 parts of jojoba seed oil; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of shea butter; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of olive fruit extract; 2.0-6.0 parts by weight of an emulsifying component;
the emulsifying component consists of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capryl glycol and water.
Ceramide is a main constituent (> 50%) of a lipoid body among corneocytes which exists at the outermost side of human skin, is a lipid substance which is easy to be fused with water, has a structure similar to that of a cement mortar substance among corneocytes which form a skin brick wall structure, can quickly permeate into the skin, is easy to be combined with the water in the corneocytes to form a net structure, locks water, plays an important role in preventing water from diffusing and protecting external stimulation, and plays an important role in protecting the skin, moistening and preserving the moisture. The ceramide mainly comprises various types such as ceramide-1, ceramide-3, ceramide-6 and the like, and the effects of different types of ceramides are different, wherein the ceramide-1 can intensively repair the natural skin lipid membrane of the skin, improve the barrier function of the skin surface layer, reduce the loss of water and finally achieve the moisturizing effect.
The lecithin of the invention has dual effects: 1. the double-capsule structure has slow release and embedding effects on lipid components and moisture-keeping components. The synergistic emulsifying system slowly releases effective substances and plays an important role in moisturizing and repairing skin. 2. Lecithin is an important component of cell membranes, has affinity to fat and water, has high affinity with skin, and is more easily absorbed and permeated by the skin. In addition, lecithin is also effective in reducing lipofuscin levels in keratinocytes, and plays an important role in skin homeostasis.
Cholesterol is one of the important components of the lipid membrane and intercellular lipid in the skin barrier function, has high permeability to the skin, can keep the moisture on the surface of the skin, promote the metabolism of the skin, and can coordinate and balance the skin oil and inhibit the skin inflammation.
Tests prove that the compounding of the ceramide-1, the cholesterol and the lecithin can enhance the barrier effect of the ceramide-1 on skin and the water delivery and locking capacity, effectively reduce the water loss of the skin and quickly repair the moisture retention and barrier functions of the skin, and the reason is that the ceramide-1 and the cholesterol are important components of intercellular lipid of the stratum corneum, have good skin-friendly performance with the skin and are easy to be absorbed and permeated by the skin; lecithin forms a lamellar liquid crystal structure in the essence cream, and the liquid crystal structure is similar to the barrier function of human skin, so that the essence cream has the moisture retention and water locking performance and the barrier protection performance which are not possessed by common liquid creams.
The invention also comprises an emulsifying component consisting of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, caprylyl glycol and water, wherein the caprylyl glycol has antiseptic, moisturizing and emulsification assisting functions; PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate is a high molecular water-in-oil emulsifier, has a molecular weight of about 5000-7000, and can be rapidly diffused at the water-oil interface of cream. Compared with the traditional small molecular emulsifier, the lipophilic group of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate-two fixed large-volume long chains of the polyhydroxystearate form a special solid space structure which is not easy to rotate on the interface of the essence cream, and the polymerized surfactant is irreversibly adsorbed on the water-oil interface, so that the stable water-in-oil cream can be obtained. PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate contains lipophilic-hydroxystearate and hydrophilic-polyoxyethylene, and its special properties allow the preparation of very stable, flowable, low viscosity emulsions that spread easily on the skin and give a light, non-greasy skin feel, while also having a useful internal (aqueous) phase content of up to 90%.
The invention adopts the mutual matching of lecithin and an emulsifying component consisting of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capryl glycol and water to form a stable liquid crystal protective layer on an oil-water interface of cream, and on one hand, the unique lamellar liquid crystal structure can form a skin-like membrane with a skin-like structure on human skin, so that the product has high ductility and high-efficiency moisturizing and repairing barrier functions, and can slow down the release of active ingredients, thereby achieving the purposes of mildness, safe repair and long-term moisturizing.
The beta-glucan is a polysaccharide extracted from oat, can promote the proliferation of Langerhans cells and the release of interleukin from macrophages, improve the immunity of the skin, help the tissues of damaged skin to recover and generate cytokine, and promote the healing of skin wounds, and particularly has certain effect on the skin with hormone-dependent dermatitis or damaged skin barrier function. The beta-glucan can effectively protect skin cells, reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin (the ultraviolet rays can damage the skin epidermal permeation barrier), increase epidermal growth factors, promote the increase of collagen and elastin in the skin, promote skin metabolism, reduce local inflammation and pain and have a certain antiallergic effect.
Sodium hyaluronate is a distinctive hyaluronic acid-derivative, due to its amphiphilic nature, easy to use, highly soft stratum corneum, and provides high water retention capacity (more than 2 times higher than conventional hyaluronic acid). Has a strong affinity for the skin and is firmly held on the surface of the skin to prevent water from evaporating from the skin.
The moisturizing and water-locking efficacy of the polyglutamic acid is 500 times that of the hyaluronic acid, and the healthy pH value of the skin can be maintained. Form a slow-release delivery system, so that the skin can absorb various skin nutrients in the care product more effectively.
The high-moisture-retention component is formed by compounding the acetylated sodium hyaluronate and the polyglutamic acid, so that the moisture retention capacity of the skin is effectively improved.
Jojoba seed oil is base oil with extremely high stability and excellent ductility, is very similar to human grease in arrangement, has quite good skin-friendly property and good permeability, is very easy to be absorbed by skin, has a good moisturizing effect on the skin, contains abundant vitamin D and protein, has quite good curative effect and relieving effect on allergic skin, and improves inflamed skin, eczema, psoriasis, pimples and the like.
The shea butter is rich in unsaturated fatty acid, is an oil-soluble humectant comparable to hyaluronic acid, has excellent skin feel and easy penetration, has the functions of moisturizing and locking water, prevents the moisture loss of skin, provides sufficient moisture conveying capacity for the skin, can promote wound healing and increases the defense capacity of the skin.
The natural oil contained in the olive extract has strong skin-friendly ability, can nourish and tenderize skin, improve skin elasticity, inhibit histamine release, relieve allergy, repair epidermal permeability barrier, and enhance skin anti-aging ability.
In the invention, the jojoba seed oil, the shea butter and the olive extract are mutually matched to form a skin-friendly water-retaining film on the surface of skin in time, so as to relieve the damaged skin in time, and form short-term-long-term effect complementation with ceramide-1, cholesterol, lecithin and the like, thereby achieving the effects of quick-acting relieving and long-acting repairing.
The invention adopts the compound grease (jojoba seed oil, shea butter and olive extract) with good skin-friendly property to ensure that the essence cream can form a involucra protective layer on the damaged skin in a short time, relieve the damaged skin in time, improve the short-time water retention capacity of the skin, combine ceramide-1, cholesterol and lecithin, the skin-like skin is formed on the surface of the skin, the skin barrier is repaired, meanwhile, the high-moisture-retention component formed by compounding the acetylated sodium hyaluronate and the polyglutamic acid is cooperated to efficiently retain moisture, the local inflammation and pain are reduced by the beta-glucan, and the ductility, moisture retention, repair performance and the like of the product are increased by a layered liquid crystal emulsification system formed by the lecithin and the emulsification component, so that the essence cream integrally shows excellent barrier repair and moisture retention effects, is mild in action and free of stimulation, and effectively avoids the burden of the product on the skin.
Preferably, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
13.0 parts by weight of ceramide; 3.0 parts by weight of cholesterol; 3.0 parts by weight of lecithin; 1.0 part by weight of beta-glucan; 1.0 part by weight of acetylated sodium hyaluronate; 1.0 part by weight of polyglutamic acid; 3.0 parts of jojoba seed oil; 1.0 part by weight of shea butter; 1.0 part by weight of olive fruit extract; 2.5 parts by weight of an emulsifying component;
the emulsifying component consists of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capryl glycol and water.
Preferably, the essence cream also comprises a common matrix of a cosmetic external preparation, and the common matrix of the cosmetic external preparation comprises one or more of a solvent, a solubilizer, a preservative, an antioxidant, a pH regulator, a penetration enhancer, a liposome, a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a skin feel regulator, a surfactant, an emulsifying component, a propellant, an essence and a pigment.
The invention also provides a preparation method for preparing the essence cream, which comprises the following steps:
s1, uniformly stirring and mixing cholesterol, jojoba seed oil, shea butter, olive fruit extract and half of lecithin at the temperature of 40-45 ℃ to obtain a component A;
s2, uniformly mixing the emulsified components, a proper amount of water and the rest lecithin at normal temperature, heating to 40-45 ℃, mixing the component A and the polyglutamic acid, and uniformly stirring;
s3, cooling to room temperature, adding ceramide-1, acetylated sodium hyaluronate and beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain a finished product.
The essence cream is prepared at low temperature or normal temperature, so that the influence of high temperature on the effect of the active ingredients is effectively avoided.
Lecithin is added in two steps, and the prepared essence cream is more refreshing.
The essence cream of the invention can be directly applied to the skin surface, and can also be further used for producing cosmetics or medicaments to be applied to the skin surface.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention adopts the compound grease (jojoba seed oil, shea butter and olive extract) with good skin-friendly property to ensure that the essence cream can form a involucra protective layer on the damaged skin in a short time, relieve the damaged skin in time, improve the instant water retention capacity of the skin, combine ceramide-1, cholesterol and lecithin, the skin-like skin is formed on the surface of the skin, the skin barrier is repaired, meanwhile, the high-moisture-retention component formed by compounding the acetylated sodium hyaluronate and the polyglutamic acid is cooperated to efficiently retain moisture, the local inflammation and pain are reduced by the beta-glucan, and the ductility, moisture retention, repair performance and the like of the product are increased by a layered liquid crystal emulsification system formed by the lecithin and the emulsification component, so that the essence cream integrally shows excellent barrier repair and moisture retention effects, is mild in action and free of stimulation, and effectively avoids the burden of the product on the skin.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific examples, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.
An essence cream for repairing skin barrier function comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
the emulsifying component consists of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capryl glycol and water.
The preparation method of the essence cream comprises the following steps:
s1, uniformly stirring and mixing cholesterol, jojoba seed oil, shea butter, olive fruit extract and half of lecithin at the temperature of 40-45 ℃ to obtain a component A;
s2, uniformly mixing the emulsified components, a proper amount of water and the rest lecithin at normal temperature, heating to 40-45 ℃, mixing the component A and the polyglutamic acid, and uniformly stirring;
s3, cooling to room temperature, adding ceramide-1, acetylated sodium hyaluronate and beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain a finished product.
The following combined tests further verify the effect of the invention:
1. testing the moisture content of the human body:
materials: the essence cream prepared in invention group and comparative example 1;
the method comprises the following steps: the test is a double blind test of left and right faces. The test part is 3cm multiplied by 3cm area of the left and right faces, one side is smeared with a sample to be tested (invention group), the other side is smeared with a control sample (comparative example 1), the test part is used for 1 time respectively in the morning and evening, the test part is prevented from being washed away by water after being smeared, 0.1g is used for each time, and the moisture content of the horny layer of the skin is measured by the same method after 60 min, 120min, 180 min and 240 min.
Testing an instrument: skin moisture test probe from CK company, germany.
The experimental results are shown below:
grouping | 60min | 120min | 180min | 240min |
Invention group | 17.99 | 17.12 | 16.01 | 16.92 |
Control group (comparative example 1) | 13.76 | 12.35 | 11.98 | 11.21 |
Test result of human body moisture content
Experimental results show that the emulsifying component formed by combining the lecithin and the emulsifying component has obviously better water retention capacity on skin than the conventional emulsifying component.
2. Transdermal water loss test
40 volunteers and 10 volunteers were selected as 1 group, the barrier function of the skin on the flexed side of both forearms was destroyed by 3% SLS solution, and after the dermatitis symptom was artificially produced, the 4 groups (inventive group and control group (comparative examples 2-4)) were divided into 4 groups, and the same amount of skin care product was applied to the affected part of dermatitis on the inner side of the arm. Skin moisture loss was measured by the German CK company skin moisture loss (TEWL) test probe TM300 for 120 min. And (3) enabling a cylinder at the top end of the test probe to be perpendicular to the surface of the skin coated on each group, automatically acquiring TEWL data once by the instrument for 30min after the measurement is started, and finally, averaging.
The experimental results are as follows:
experimental group | 30min | 60min | 90min | 120min |
Invention group | 3.50 | 3.98 | 4.17 | 4.59 |
Control group (comparative example 2) | 7.40 | 8.33 | 8.17 | 9.35 |
Control group (comparative example 3) | 8.60 | 8.50 | 8.49 | 8.54 |
Control group (comparative example 4) | 9.85 | 10.71 | 10.10 | 9.78 |
Transdermal water loss test
The TEWL value of the test site is an important parameter for evaluating the skin barrier function and the skin repair after using the product, and a smaller value indicates a better skin barrier and a better repair.
Experimental results show that the repairing effect of the compound of the jojoba seed oil, the shea butter and the olive fruit extract is obviously superior to that of any single component.
Of course, the principle and the implementation of the present invention are explained in the following by using specific examples, and the above description of the embodiments is only used to help the method and the core idea of the present invention. It should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, it is possible to make various improvements and modifications to the present invention without departing from the principle of the present invention, and those improvements and modifications also fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. The essence cream for repairing the barrier function of the skin is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
12.0-6.0 parts by weight of ceramide; 2.0 to 8.0 parts by weight of cholesterol; 2.0-8.0 parts by weight of lecithin; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of beta-glucan; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of acetylated sodium hyaluronate; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of polyglutamic acid; 2.0-8.0 parts of jojoba seed oil; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of shea butter; 0.2-2.0 parts by weight of olive fruit extract; 2.0-6.0 parts by weight of an emulsifying component;
the emulsifying component consists of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capryl glycol and water.
2. The essence cream for repairing skin barrier function according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
13.0 parts by weight of ceramide; 3.0 parts by weight of cholesterol; 3.0 parts by weight of lecithin; 1.0 part by weight of beta-glucan; 1.0 part by weight of acetylated sodium hyaluronate; 1.0 part by weight of polyglutamic acid; 3.0 parts of jojoba seed oil; 1.0 part by weight of shea butter; 1.0 part by weight of olive fruit extract; 2.5 parts by weight of an emulsifying component;
the emulsifying component consists of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, capryl glycol and water.
3. The essence cream for repairing skin barrier function according to claim 3, wherein the essence cream further comprises a common base of a cosmetic external preparation, the common base of the cosmetic external preparation comprising: solvent, solubilizer, antiseptic, antioxidant, pH regulator, penetration enhancer, liposome, humectant, thickener, chelating agent, skin feeling regulator, surfactant, emulsifying component, propellant, essence, and pigment.
4. A method for preparing the essence cream according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by comprising the steps of:
s1, uniformly stirring and mixing cholesterol, jojoba seed oil, shea butter, olive fruit extract and half of lecithin at the temperature of 40-45 ℃ to obtain a component A;
s2, uniformly mixing the emulsified components, a proper amount of water and the rest lecithin at normal temperature, heating to 40-45 ℃, mixing the component A and the polyglutamic acid, and uniformly stirring;
s3, cooling to room temperature, adding ceramide-1, acetylated sodium hyaluronate and beta-glucan, and uniformly stirring to obtain a finished product.
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