CN113143815A

CN113143815A - Folium Artemisiae Argyi extract, its preparation method, and composition and tear-off facial mask containing the same

Info

Publication number: CN113143815A
Application number: CN202110165571.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 舒均中; 谢娇梅; 杜送英; 谢津; 杨杏
Original assignee: Opal Cosmetics Huizhou Co Ltd
Current assignee: Opal Cosmetics Huizhou Co Ltd
Priority date: 2021-02-06
Filing date: 2021-02-06
Publication date: 2021-07-23

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals. A preparation method of a wormwood extract comprises the following steps: cleaning and sterilizing folium Artemisiae Argyi plants, naturally fermenting, shearing into powder at high speed, placing in a reaction kettle, adding ethanol, butanediol, glycerol and water, vacuumizing and heating, condensing and refluxing, keeping the temperature and extracting, and filtering to obtain filtrate; performing rotary evaporation on the filtrate, concentrating to 20-50% of the original volume, and recovering ethanol to obtain a concentrated solution; diluting the concentrated solution with water or ethanol water solution, and purifying and eluting by macroporous adsorption resin adsorption; and (4) carrying out rotary evaporation on the eluent. The preparation method is simple and efficient, the yield of the finished product of the extracting solution is not lower than 56%, and the purity is 3-20%. The extract can be applied to the composition for resisting inflammation and allergy, and can reduce irritation of facial mask to skin and reduce risk of facial mask allergy.

Description

Folium Artemisiae Argyi extract, its preparation method, and composition and tear-off facial mask containing the same

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to a wormwood extract, a preparation method thereof, a composition containing the wormwood extract and a tear-off facial mask.

Background

The tear-off mask has good effect of removing aged stratum corneum, but the tear-off mask easily causes the problems of large pores or skin allergy, and because the retention time of the mask needs to be shortened to enable the mask to quickly form a film, most mask products need to be added with ethanol to accelerate the film formation, so that the problem of skin sensitivity is easily caused. Therefore, in order to satisfy consumer needs, there is a need to develop a tear-off mask that has a good effect of removing aged horny layer, is mild and has low irritation, and can repair skin sensitivity problems.

The mugwort is also called as Bingtai, Xiangmugwort, ai Xiao and mugwort, and is a perennial herb or slightly half-shrub, and the plant has strong fragrance. The whole herb can be used as medicine, and has the effects of warming channels, removing dampness, dispelling cold, stopping bleeding, diminishing inflammation, relieving asthma, relieving cough, preventing miscarriage, resisting allergy, etc. The raw materials are easy to obtain and low in price. Modern researches show that the wormwood has obvious pharmacological activity in the fields of oxidation resistance, tumor resistance, bacteria resistance, allergy resistance and the like. The wormwood extract is applied to the tear-off facial mask, so that the anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic skin calming effects of the wormwood extract can be effectively exerted, the skin resistance is improved, and the adverse effects caused by the tear-off action of the tear-off facial mask product can be weakened.

At present, reports on immunopathological effects (namely anaphylactic reactions) of traditional Chinese medicines are increasing day by day, and traditional Chinese medicine extracts contain more small molecular substances which can be combined with proteins in vivo to have antigenic properties. The wormwood is used as a Chinese herbal medicine which can cause anaphylactic reaction, and the research on the standard toxicity of the water extract is still blank. The folium Artemisiae Argyi extract has complex components, and the main chemical components include volatile oil, flavones, tannins, eudesmane, polysaccharides, triterpenes and microelements. Wherein, the wormwood volatile oil can generate stimulation to the skin, can cause the phenomena of skin fever, flush and the like, and even can cause adverse reactions of the central nervous system and the cardiovascular system. Therefore, a wormwood purification technology capable of effectively separating the functional components and the toxic components from the wormwood is needed, the functional components of the wormwood are retained, and the toxic components are eliminated.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing the wormwood extract, the preparation method is simple and efficient, the yield of the finished product of the extracting solution is not lower than 56%, and the purity is 3-20%. The composition can be applied to the composition to endow the composition with remarkable anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects, and the composition containing the composition is applied to a tear-off mask, so that the effect of the mask on removing aged horny layers is not influenced, the irritation of the mask to the skin can be reduced, and the mask allergy risk can be reduced.

The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:

a preparation method of a wormwood extract comprises the following steps:

a. cleaning and sterilizing folium Artemisiae Argyi plant, and standing at 15-18 deg.C for 3-5 d; raising the environmental temperature to 60-100 ℃, keeping the environmental humidity at 1-20%, and naturally fermenting for 20-25 h;

b. b, shearing the product obtained in the step a into powder at a high speed, placing the powder in a reaction kettle, adding ethanol, butanediol, glycerol and water, vacuumizing and heating to 40-80 ℃, condensing and refluxing, performing heat preservation and extraction for 45-60min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;

c. performing rotary evaporation on the filtrate, concentrating to 20-50% of the original volume, and recovering ethanol to obtain a concentrated solution;

d. diluting the concentrated solution with water or 40-80% ethanol water solution, and purifying and eluting by macroporous adsorbent resin adsorption;

e. performing rotary evaporation on the eluate at 60-80 deg.C for 45-60 hr to obtain folium Artemisiae Argyi extract.

Further, in the step b, the mass ratio of the ethanol to the butanediol to the glycerol to the water is 1-3: 1-3: 1-3: 5.

a folium Artemisiae Argyi extract prepared by the preparation method is provided.

The wormwood essence composition containing the wormwood extract comprises the following components in percentage by mass: the content of folium Artemisiae Argyi extract is not less than 2.5%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, and water is not more than 97.5%.

A tear-off facial mask containing the wormwood essence composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-10% of wormwood essence composition, 1-20% of film-forming agent, 0.01-20% of plasticizer, 0.01-20% of powder particles, 0.01-20% of film-forming aid and the balance of water.

Further, the composition also comprises the following components: 0.01-1% of preservative, 0.01-1% of essence, 0.01-1% of thickening agent and 0.01-2% of pH value regulator.

A. Film forming agent

The film forming agent comprises at least one of polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate emulsion, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, pectin, polyurethane and vinyl caprolactam/VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer. One or two of polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and polyurethane are preferred. Particularly, at least one of polyvinyl alcohol, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and polyurethane is preferable.

Based on different performances and characteristics of the film forming agent, the product can show different effects of moisturizing, sun protection, shaping and the like, and the effects shown by the film forming agent are different in size. The film forming agent can realize the moisturizing effect through film forming, the film forming agent has different moisturizing effects due to different types and structures, and if the pore diameter of a film formed after film forming is large and the permeability is good, the moisturizing effect is deficient. Polyvinyl alcohol is prepared by alcoholysis of polyvinyl acetate, a water-soluble synthetic polymer, polyhydric alcohol, with secondary hydroxyl groups in every other carbon atom in its molecular structure, has good film-forming, thickening, binding and emulsifying properties. The preferable film forming agents can be combined with each other to form a film with better moisture retention, adhesiveness and rigidity.

B. Plasticizer

The plasticizer comprises a humectant and/or a water-soluble emollient.

a. The humectant comprises at least one of glycerol, propylene glycol, methyl propylene glycol, butanediol, sorbitol polysaccharide, mucopolysaccharide, PCA-sodium alcohol, sodium hyaluronate, and polyethylene glycol; preferably at least one of polyethylene glycol (300, 400, 1500, 4000, etc.), glycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol;

b. the water-soluble emollient comprises at least one of water-soluble lanolin, PEG-7 olive oil ester, and PEG-120 jojoba lipid.

The pull-off type mask usually uses plasticized polyvinyl alcohol as a film forming substrate, and when the film forming substrate is dried, a brittle film is easily formed, the film is adhered to the skin, the peeling is difficult, and the tearing damage is easily caused to the skin. The addition of humectant or emollient prevents the polyvinyl alcohol from forming a brittle film upon drying and becoming plastic. Glycerin is the most commonly used humectant, which plasticizes and softens the stratum corneum, is a component of true desmosomal hydrolysis, and is effective in increasing desquamation and improving dry and cracked skin; and simultaneously can prevent the formation of brittle films of film-forming products by reducing the rate of evaporation of moisture from the skin. Propylene glycol, sorbitol and the like are also among the most common humectants. Polyethylene glycol series products are water-soluble straight-chain polymers prepared by gradually adding ethylene oxide and water or ethylene glycol, and both ends of the water-soluble straight-chain polymers are provided with hydroxyl groups. Polyethylene glycol with relatively low molecular weight has the ability of absorbing and preserving moisture from the atmosphere, has plasticity, and can be used as humectant, solvent, cosolvent, O/W emulsifier and stabilizer, and also as water-soluble ointment base and suppository base; while solid waxy polyethylene glycol with a relatively high molecular weight is often used as a binder to increase the viscosity and solidity of low molecular weight liquid PEG; for raw materials which are not easy to dissolve in water, the polyethylene glycol can be used as a carrier of the solid dispersing agent so as to achieve the purpose of solid dispersion. The water-soluble emollient is generally ethoxylated fatty acid or fatty acid derivative, although the water-soluble emollient has moisturizing effect when being applied to a formula, the oily group of the water-soluble emollient obviously interferes with a film forming process, and can form an oil film without adhesion, so that the film forming time is greatly prolonged. Thus, water soluble emollients are preferably not included in the present invention.

C. Powder particles

The powder particles comprise at least one of kaolin, talcum powder, bentonite, organic bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, titanium dioxide, magnesium carbonate, silica, hot spring soil and volcanic ash. Preferably at least one of kaolin, talc powder, bentonite, organic bentonite and magnesium aluminum silicate.

The superfine solid powder particles play a role in stabilizing a system and improving film forming property, wherein silicate is preferred, the silicate can be dispersed in water or a water-oil system to form colloid or gel, and a certain yield value, suspended particles and a stable system can be endowed to the system by compounding a macromolecular thickener and the like. The experimental results show that the addition of certain fine powders may lead to the formation of firm and stable interfacial films at the interface, and at the same time, in the presence of surface-active ingredients, it may promote the spreading of the product on the skin into films, while forming more flexible films.

D. Film forming aid

The film forming auxiliary agent comprises at least one of ethanol, polysorbate-20, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, ethylhexyl glycerol, pentanediol and hexanediol. Preferably at least one of kaolin, talc powder, bentonite, organic bentonite and magnesium aluminum silicate.

The ethanol is a liquid which is extremely volatile at normal temperature, and can accelerate the film forming speed of the product when being added into the formula, and the effect of the film forming agent exerted in the formula components and the effect of the plasticizer have antagonistic action, but in the invention, the collocation of the ethanol and other preferable alcohols is found, and a better film forming effect can be realized when the ethanol and glycerol are compounded according to 3.1-5.2.

The invention has the following beneficial effects:

1. the wormwood extract disclosed by the invention is easy to obtain raw materials, the preparation method is simple to operate, and the extraction efficiency is high. The test proves that the plant extract can inhibit the release of histamine and SRS-A (slow reaction substance) and other mediators or directly antagonize allergic mediators, thereby inhibiting the occurrence of skin itch and inflammation.

2. The experimental verification proves that the wormwood extract disclosed by the invention has no cytotoxicity, no primary stimulation, no essence capable of causing anaphylactic reaction, and high-temperature stability and light stability.

3. The wormwood extract is applied to the tear-off mask, and can be used for cleaning skin, removing aged stratum corneum, simultaneously bringing skin with comfort and moisture, enhancing anti-allergy performance, enhancing skin protection barrier and avoiding skin from being excessively damaged.

4. The wormwood extract disclosed by the invention is low in extraction process difficulty, and has an obvious synergistic effect with other components in the composition. Through screening the raw materials of the composition and matching the raw materials in different proportions, the skin care composition has high stability, low irritation and excellent skin affinity, and has obvious anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects and skin cleaning and caring effects under the synergistic action of the wormwood extract.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, which are only preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.

The following table shows the formulation table (unit:%) of 3 examples and 3 comparative examples of the tear-off mask pack containing the wormwood essence composition according to the present invention:

wherein the wormwood essence composition comprises 2.5% of wormwood extract, 0.5% of phenoxyethanol and 97.5% of water.

A preparation method of a wormwood extract comprises the following steps:

a. cleaning and sterilizing folium Artemisiae Argyi plants, and standing at 15 deg.C for 3 d; raising the environmental temperature to 60 ℃, keeping the environmental humidity at 20%, and naturally fermenting for 20 h;

b. and c, shearing the product obtained in the step a into powder at a high speed, placing the powder into a reaction kettle, and adding a mixture of the components in a mass ratio of 1: 1: 1: 5, vacuumizing and heating the ethanol, butanediol, glycerol and water to 40 ℃, condensing and refluxing, performing heat preservation and extraction for 45min, and filtering to obtain filtrate;

c. performing rotary evaporation on the filtrate, concentrating to 20% of the original volume, and recovering ethanol to obtain a concentrated solution;

d. diluting the concentrated solution with water or 40% ethanol water solution, and purifying and eluting by macroporous adsorbent resin adsorption;

e. performing rotary evaporation on the eluate at 60 deg.C for 45 hr to obtain folium Artemisiae Argyi extract.

Comparative example 4

Comparative example 4 is different from example 1 in that the mugwort extract used is prepared by the following method:

b. and c, shearing the product obtained in the step a into powder at a high speed, placing the powder into a reaction kettle, and adding a mixture of the components in a mass ratio of 3: 5, vacuumizing and heating the mixture to 40 ℃, condensing and refluxing the mixture, performing heat preservation and extraction for 45min, and filtering the mixture to obtain filtrate;

Each performance of 3 examples and 4 comparative examples of the tear-off mask pack of the present invention containing the wormwood essence composition was tested:

a. analysis of skin TEWL values: 49 female volunteers (age 25-45 years) were selected and randomized into 7 groups of 7 persons each. The products of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 were used, respectively. The product is used once a day, half face is used in contrast, and the trial is carried out for 3 times. The initial (i.e., D0) and 1, 2, and 3 trial runs of the initial TEWL values were measured using the instrument, Cutometer dual MPA 580. The TEWL value of the tested part is an important parameter for evaluating the skin barrier function and representing the repair or damage degree of the skin after using the product, and the smaller the value, the better the skin barrier is, and the better the repair or damage degree is. The post-use test data is shown in table 1.

b. Analysis of skin red pigment: skin red pigment can be used to characterize the health of the skin, with lower skin red pigments indicating healthier skin. The experimental instrument Visio Face 1000D is used for measuring skin red pigment, and the common color difference is expressed by delta E. The test subjects still selected volunteers in test a, and the skin areas of the trial area and the non-trial area after the products were tried were measured to obtain the change of the red pigment after the products of use examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-4 are shown in table 2.

c. Chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane blood vessel test: as an alternative to animal testing for eye irritation, chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane testing involves contacting a quantity of the test substance directly with the CAM and observing the CAM for vascular damage (e.g., ghost vessels, capillary congestion, or hemorrhage) over a period of time, and scoring the extent of different vascular damage, with a greater severity of vascular damage indicating greater ocular irritation of the sample. The following table 2 shows the evaluation criteria of the vascular effect, and the chick chorioallantoic membrane blood vessel tests were performed for each of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4, and the evaluation results are shown in the following table (no stimulation was given on the average of 0, slight stimulation was given when the evaluation was given by a score of less than 2, mild stimulation was given when the evaluation was given by a score of 2 or more and less than 4.5, and severe stimulation was given when the evaluation was given by a score of 4.5 or more).

Vascular effects	Scoring	Description of the Observation
			Without change	0	No response was observed, CAM was normal
Ghost blood vessel	1	No blood flow in the blood vessel and clear blood vessel
			Capillary damage	2	Congestion, or increased CAM small vessel blood flow.
Very slight bleeding or whitening	3	The fine bleeding spot covered less than 25% of the area within the annulus, or the CAM membrane was whitish.
			Mild bleeding or whitening	4	The coverage area of the hemorrhage spot in the ring is 25-50%, or the capillary is whitish.
Moderate bleeding or whitening	5	The bleeding range of massive bleeding points or small areas in the ring reaches 50-75 percent, or massive blood vessels are whitish.
			Severe bleeding or whitening	6	The area of the intra-annular hemorrhage point is more than 75 percent; scabs may form, or severe whitening.

The test results are shown in tables 1-2:

TABLE 1

Table 2:

sample (I)	Scoring	Average score	Degree of irritation
				Example 1	3.5/3/3/3/3/3/3	3.07	Mild stimulation
Example 2	2.5/2/2.5/2.5/2.5/2/2.5	2.35	Mild stimulation
				Example 3	2.5/2/2/2.5/2/2/2/2.5	2.21	Mild stimulation
Comparative example 1	3.5/3.5/3/3.5/3/3.5/3.5	3.36	Mild stimulation
				Comparative example 2	2/2.5/2/2/2/2/2.5	2.14	Mild stimulation
Comparative example 3	3/3.5/3.5/3/3.5/3.5/3	3.21	Mild stimulation
				Example 4	3.5/3.5/3/3/3/3/3	3.14	Mild stimulation

It can be seen that the examples and comparative examples using the wormwood-containing extract showed significantly the same fluctuation in skin TEWL and skin red pigment change rates. The skin TEWL can be increased by the moisturizing effect and the keratinocyte removal effect of the tearing mask, the increase of the skin TEWL can be slowed down by the added wormwood extract, the change rates of the skin TEWL are 48.71% and 235.89% respectively when the wormwood extract is added and when the wormwood extract is not added, and the difference is obvious. In comparison with example 3, comparative example 2 shows that the effect of the addition amount of the wormwood extract is limited, but the skin is not irritated even by the addition amount of the wormwood extract is high. In comparison with comparative example 3, it was found that the product to which the wormwood extract of the present invention was added was more effective in reducing the rate of change of TEWL and the rate of change and irritation of skin red pigment. Compared with the comparative example 4, the plasticizer is only selected from water-soluble emollients, and the reduction of the film forming property of the mask can influence the moisturizing effect of the mask.

The preparation method of the wormwood extract is simple and efficient, the yield of the finished product of the extracting solution is not lower than 56%, and the purity of the extracting solution is 3-20%. The composition can be applied to the composition to endow the composition with remarkable anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects, and the composition containing the composition is applied to a tear-off mask, so that the effect of the mask on removing aged horny layers is not influenced, the irritation of the mask to the skin can be reduced, and the mask allergy risk can be reduced.

Claims

1. The preparation method of the wormwood extract is characterized by comprising the following steps:

2. The method for preparing a wormwood extract according to claim 1, wherein in the step b, the mass ratio of the ethanol, the butanediol, the glycerol and the water is 1-3: 1-3: 1-3: 5.

3. a wormwood extract prepared by the preparation method of claim 1 or 2.

4. A wormwood essence composition containing the wormwood extract according to claim 3, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: the content of folium Artemisiae Argyi extract is not less than 2.5%, phenoxyethanol 0.5%, and water is not more than 97.5%.

5. A tear-off mask containing the wormwood essence composition according to claim 4, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-10% of wormwood essence composition, 1-20% of film-forming agent, 0.01-20% of plasticizer, 0.01-20% of powder particles, 0.01-20% of film-forming aid and the balance of water.

6. The tear-off mask pack according to claim 5, further comprising the following components: 0.01-1% of preservative, 0.01-1% of essence, 0.01-1% of thickening agent and 0.01-2% of pH value regulator.

7. The tear-off mask pack according to claim 5 wherein said film forming agent comprises at least one of polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl acetate emulsion, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, pectin, polyurethane, vinylcaprolactam/VP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer.

8. The tear-off mask pack according to claim 5 wherein said plasticizer comprises a moisturizer and/or a water-soluble emollient; the humectant comprises at least one of glycerol, propylene glycol, methyl propylene glycol, butanediol, sorbitol polysaccharide, mucopolysaccharide, PCA-sodium alcohol, sodium hyaluronate, and polyethylene glycol; the water-soluble emollient comprises at least one of water-soluble lanolin, PEG-7 olive oil ester, and PEG-120 jojoba lipid.

9. The tear mask of claim 5 wherein said powder particles comprise at least one of kaolin, talc, bentonite, organobentonite, magnesium aluminometasilicate, titanium dioxide, magnesium carbonate, silica, spa clay, volcanic ash.

10. The tear-off mask pack of claim 4 wherein said film forming aids comprise at least one of ethanol, polysorbate-20, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, ethylhexyl glycerin, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol.