CN112972291A

CN112972291A - Non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112972291A
Application number: CN202110250803.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 殷伊琳; 杜以波; 张扬; 贺灵枝
Original assignee: BEIJING INSTITUTE OF OLIGO PEPTIDE BIOLOGY; Shandong Taihao Biotechnology Co ltd; Tianjin Bohua Xinchuang Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: BEIJING INSTITUTE OF OLIGO PEPTIDE BIOLOGY; Shandong Taihao Biotechnology Co ltd; Tianjin Bohua Xinchuang Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-03-08
Filing date: 2021-03-08
Publication date: 2021-06-18
Also published as: CN114652634B; CN114652634A

Abstract

A non-animal-derived whitening and anti-aging cosmetic and a preparation method thereof are disclosed, wherein a new material NMN with a remarkable anti-aging effect on cells is selected, and a deep-sea hot spring yeast strain SOD which is very stable to water medium and heat is selected as a whitening raw material; the anti-wrinkle raw materials adopt hydroxyproline prepared by a fermentation method and chick pea small peptide to replace collagen peptide; the deep moisturizing raw material adopts super small molecular hyaluronic acid. The non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic formula is obtained by scientifically combining an anti-aging component NMN for a human body, NAD < + > which promotes the metabolism of sugar, fat and amino acid and participates in the synthesis of energy, and SOD, hydroxyproline and chick pea small peptide. The invention can be made into essence, spray, cream emulsion, facial mask, pressed powder and the like through different combinations. The cosmetic prepared by the method can keep the activity stable for 2 years, has remarkable whitening, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects, and is an excellent anti-aging cosmetic.

Description

Non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to a preparation technology of a non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic, and relates to the technical field of biology.

Background

Whitening and anti-aging cosmetics are the most important functional requirements of consumers in the field of cosmetics.

In recent two years, among various cosmetic raw materials for delaying skin aging, NMN is one of the newly found important raw materials for anti-aging. NMN (β -nicotinamide mononucleotide), a precursor of the cofactor NAD + of the long-life protein in the human body. NAD + is also called coenzyme I, is called Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide (NADP), and participates in thousands of reactions in every cell. NAD + is an important coenzyme of tricarboxylic acid cycle, promotes the metabolism of sugar, fat and amino acid, and participates in the synthesis of energy; NAD + is in turn the sole substrate for coenzyme I consuming enzymes (the sole substrate for DNA repair enzyme PARP, the sole substrate for longevity protein Sirtuins, the sole substrate for cyclic ADP ribose synthase CD 38/157). Therefore, NAD + is very important for the human body and plays an important role in human body aging resistance. However, with age, NAD + levels in the human body are gradually decreasing, resulting in decreased mitochondrial activity, accelerated aging of mitochondria, cells, and even the whole body, and gradually entering the vicious circle, the human body gradually ages. Therefore, NMN supplementation can help human self repair DNA damage, thereby achieving the purpose of delaying aging.

SOD (superoxide dismutase), one of the safest and most effective raw materials in the field of whitening in the cosmetic field for about 20 years, is used in many whitening cosmetics. However, the conventional SOD is derived from plants such as houttuynia cordata, rosa roxburghii tratt, hovenia dulcis thunb and the like, or from pig and cattle organs, or from general yeast fermentation, so that the antioxidant stability is very poor, and particularly under the condition of an aqueous medium of cosmetics, the half-life period is almost months, and the stability requirement of the cosmetics cannot be met.

Peptides are one of the anti-aging raw materials commonly used in cosmetics in recent years. Comprises animal-derived collagen peptide, plant-derived soybean peptide, ginseng peptide, etc. Due to the peptides currently available on the market, the molecular weight is above 500 daltons, even 1000 daltons, 3000 daltons. Since cells absorb little more than 500 daltons of peptides, and skin permeability is poor, the peptide product used contributes little to the anti-aging properties of the skin.

Because collagen is the most main moisturizing and anti-wrinkle raw material of cosmetics, most cosmetics are added, and collagen can only come from animals, and plants do not contain collagen, the problem of using animal-derived raw materials cannot be avoided for the cosmetics added with the collagen.

Hydroxyproline is the core characteristic amino acid of collagen. With the development of fermentation technology, hydroxyproline no longer needs to be obtained from collagen, but can be obtained by fermentation of plant raw materials, so that the function of collagen can be solved by combining hydroxyproline of non-animal source and small molecule peptide.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention provides a preparation method of a non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic, which selects a new material NMN with a remarkable cell anti-aging effect, selects a marine strain SOD which is very stable to aqueous medium and heat as a whitening raw material, does not basically lose enzyme activity for 2 years under the condition of the aqueous medium, and resists heat for 120 ℃; the anti-wrinkle raw material adopts hydroxyproline obtained by fermentation method and chick pea small peptide (average 300 daltons) to replace collagen peptide; the deep moisturizing material adopts super small molecular hyaluronic acid (average 800 daltons). The method is a preparation method of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic, and the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic can be prepared into cosmetics with whitening, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects, including essence, spray, cream emulsion, facial masks and the like;

in order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:

(1) a non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic comprises:

A. water phase composition:

NMN，1～3％、

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.1-1%,

5-10% of chickpea small peptide (300 daltons, concentration of 10%)

0.5-2% of hydroxyproline,

1-10% of sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration of 3%),

0.1 to 0.5 percent of nicotinamide,

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

B. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

C. preservative: 0.5-1% of IS-45.

The formula can be used for preparing essence, spray and facial mask liquid,

if the essence is prepared: the ratio of the sodium hyaluronate is a little higher, and the water is less;

if the spray is made: the proportion of sodium hyaluronate is a little lower, and the water is doubled;

the process comprises the following steps: adjusting the pH value of the water phase component to 6.0-6.5 by using triethanolamine at 85 ℃; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding antiseptic, stirring, cooling to 30 deg.C, and discharging. Aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.

Wherein IS-45 IS called as follows: propylene glycol (and) imidazolidinyl urea (and) methyl paraben (and) iodopropynyl butyl carbamate.

(2) A non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic comprises:

A. oil phase components:

2-3% of emulsifier DETLE,

1-5% of jojoba oil,

DC350，1～5％、

1-3% of avocado resin,

0.5-3% of glycerin polymethacrylate,

3-5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride,

1-5% of mixed alcohol-16-18,

0.1-0.5% of ceramide powder,

0.1-0.5% of coenzyme Q10 (oil dispersion),

0.1-0.5% of alpha-arbutin,

0.1-0.5% of vitamin E;

B. water phase composition:

NMN，1～3％、

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.1-1%,

5-10% of chickpea small peptide (300 daltons, concentration of 10%)

1-3% of hydroxyproline,

1-10% of sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration of 3%),

0.1 to 0.5 percent of nicotinamide,

Purified water: adding to 100%;

C. proper amount of triethanolamine;

D. 0.1% of essence;

E. preservative: 0.5-1% of IS-45.

The formula can be used for preparing cream, lotion, moisturizing cream, eye cream, etc., and can be obtained by adding or subtracting functional components according to the requirements of functions and forms.

The process comprises the following steps: heating the oil phase components to 90 ℃ in a water bath, and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; adjusting the pH value of the water phase component to 6.0-6.5 by using triethanolamine at 85 ℃; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; adding the oil phase into the water phase, homogenizing and emulsifying at high speed for 5 min while the oil phase is hot, keeping the temperature for 30 min, stirring and cooling to below 40 ℃, adding antiseptic and essence, stirring and cooling to 30 ℃, and discharging. Aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.

Wherein, the emulsifier DETLE is: ceteth, steareth-20, PEG-75 stearate, cetyl alcohol, PVM/MA copolymer.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic formula is obtained by scientifically combining an anti-aging component NMN for human bodies, promoting the metabolism of sugar, fat and amino acid and participating in energy synthesis of NAD +, and SOD, hydroxyproline and chick pea small peptide. Different raw materials of the formula realize comprehensive anti-aging effect of cosmetics from the aspects of cell moisturizing, oxidation resistance, skin cell gene repair, wrinkle resistance and quick nutrition. The cosmetic can be prepared into essence, spray, cream emulsion, facial mask, pressed powder and the like. The cosmetic prepared by the method can keep the activity stable for 2 years, has remarkable whitening, moisturizing and anti-wrinkle effects, and is an excellent anti-aging cosmetic.

Detailed Description

Example 1:

the formula of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging essence comprises the following components:

A. water phase composition:

NMN，1％

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.5%

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%), 8%

Hydroxyproline 1%

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3%), 10%

Nicotinamide, 0.4%

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

B. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

C. preservative: IS-45, 0.8%;

the process comprises the following steps: adjusting pH of water phase component to 6.5 with triethanolamine at 85 deg.C; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding antiseptic, stirring, cooling to 30 deg.C, and discharging. Aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.

Example 2:

the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal source whitening anti-aging essence spray formula comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

A. water phase composition:

NMN，0.5％

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.3%

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%), 5%

Hydroxyproline, 0.5%

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3%), 5%

Nicotinamide, 0.2%

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

B. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

C. preservative: IS-45, 0.5%;

the process comprises the following steps: the water phase component is adjusted to pH 6.5 by triethanolamine at 85 ℃; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding antiseptic, stirring, cooling to 30 deg.C, and discharging. Aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.

Example 3:

the formula of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal source whitening anti-aging essence mask liquid comprises the following components:

A. water phase composition:

NMN，0.5％

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.3%

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%), 5%

Hydroxyproline, 0.5%

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3%), 10%

Nicotinamide, 0.2%

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

B. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

C. preservative: IS-45, 0.5%;

Example 4:

the formula of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging eye cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

A. oil phase components:

emulsifier DETLE, 3%

Jojoba oil, 3%

DC350，3％

Avocado resin, 2%

Glycerol polymethacrylate, 2%

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3%

Mixed alcohol-16-18, 2%

Ceramide powder, 0.5%

Coenzyme Q10 (oil Dispersion) 0.3%

Alpha-arbutin, 0.3%

Vitamin E, 0.3%

B. Water phase composition:

NMN，2％

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 1%

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%), 5%

Hydroxyproline 1%

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3%), 10%

Nicotinamide, 0.5%

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

C. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

D. 0.1 percent of essence

E. Preservative: IS-45, 0.8%;

the process comprises the following steps: heating the oil phase components to 90 ℃ in a water bath, and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; adjusting the pH value of the water phase component to 6.0-6.5 by using triethanolamine at 85 ℃; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; adding the oil phase into the water phase, homogenizing at high speed while hot, emulsifying for 5 min, keeping the temperature for 30 min, stirring and cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding antiseptic and essence, stirring and cooling to 30 deg.C, and discharging. Aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.

Example 5:

the formula of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging emulsion comprises the following components in parts by weight:

A. oil phase components:

emulsifier DETLE, 3%

Jojoba oil, 3%

DC350，3％

Avocado resin, 1%

1% of glycerol polymethacrylate

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3%

Mixed alcohol-16-18, 1%

Coenzyme Q10 (oil Dispersion) 0.3%

Vitamin E, 0.3%

B. Water phase composition:

NMN，1％

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 1%

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%), 5%

Hydroxyproline, 0.5%

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3%), 10%

Nicotinamide, 0.3%

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

C. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

D. 0.1 percent of essence

E. Preservative: IS-45, 0.8%;

Example 6:

the formula of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging moisturizing cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

A. oil phase components:

emulsifier DETLE, 3%

Jojoba oil, 3%

DC350，3％

Avocado resin, 2%

Glycerol polymethacrylate, 2%

Caprylic/capric triglyceride, 5%

Mixed alcohol-16-18, 2%

Vitamin E, 0.3%

B. Water phase composition:

NMN，1％

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 1%

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%), 5%

Hydroxyproline, 0.5%

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3%), 10%

Nicotinamide, 0.3%

Purified water: adding to 100 percent

C. Proper amount of triethanolamine;

D. 0.1 percent of essence

E. Preservative: IS-45, 0.8%;

The method is a preparation method of the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic, and the NMN-SOD small peptide hydroxyproline non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic can be prepared into cosmetics with whitening, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects, including essence, spray, cream emulsion, facial masks and the like. It should be further noted that the embodiments of the present invention do not limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications that fall within the technical spirit and obvious technical solutions in the field shall fall within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A non-animal source whitening anti-aging cosmetic is characterized in that: at least comprises

A. An aqueous phase component;

B. triethanolamine;

C. a preservative; wherein:

the water phase comprises the components of,

NMN、

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g),

Chickpea small peptide (300 dalton, concentration 10%),

hydroxyproline,

Sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration 3 percent),

Nicotinamide,

Purified water;

the preservative IS IS-45.

2. The non-animal derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the oil phase composition also comprises an oil phase composition, wherein the oil phase composition comprises:

DETLE of an emulsifier,

Jojoba oil,

DC350、

Avocado resin,

Glycerol polymethacrylate,

Caprylic/capric triglyceride,

16-18 portions of mixed alcohol,

Ceramide powder,

Coenzyme Q10 (oil dispersed),

Alpha-arbutin,

And (3) vitamin E.

3. The non-animal derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 2, which is characterized in that: also comprises essence.

4. The non-animal derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the content of each component is

A. Aqueous phase component

NMN，1～3％；

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.1-1%;

5-10% of chickpea small peptide (300 daltons, concentration of 10%);

hydroxyproline 0.5-2%;

1-10% of sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration of 3%);

0.1-0.5% of nicotinamide;

purified water: adding to 100%;

B. proper amount of triethanolamine;

C. preservative: 0.5-1% of IS-45.

5. The non-animal derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 2, which is characterized in that: the oil phase comprises

2-3% of an emulsifier DETLE;

1-5% of jojoba oil;

DC350，1～5％；

1-3% of avocado resin;

0.5-3% of glycerol polymethacrylate;

caprylic/capric triglyceride, 3-5%;

1-5% of mixed alcohol-16-18;

0.1-0.5% of ceramide powder;

0.1-0.5% of coenzyme Q10 (oil dispersion);

0.1-0.5% of alpha-arbutin;

0.1-0.5% of vitamin E.

6. The non-animal derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 2, which is characterized in that: the water phase component content is

NMN，1～3％；

SOD (5 ten thousand U/g), 0.1-1%;

5-10% of chickpea small peptide (300 daltons, concentration of 10%);

1-3% of hydroxyproline;

1-10% of sodium hyaluronate (800 daltons, concentration of 3%);

0.1-0.5% of nicotinamide;

purified water: add to 100%.

7. The non-animal derived whitening anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 3, which is characterized in that: the content of the essence is 0.1 percent.

8. A preparation method of a non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging essence is characterized by comprising the following steps: the composition and the content of the composition of claim 4, wherein the water phase composition is adjusted to pH 6.0-6.5 by triethanolamine at 85 ℃; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; cooling to 30-40 ℃, adding a preservative, stirring and cooling, keeping the temperature at 30 ℃, and discharging; aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.

9. A preparation method of a non-animal-derived whitening anti-aging emulsion is characterized by comprising the following steps: comprises the components and contents of claim 5, claim 6 and claim 7, and is prepared by heating the oil phase components to 90 ℃ in water bath, and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; heating the water phase component to 85 ℃, and adjusting the pH value to 6.0-6.5 by using triethanolamine; stirring and keeping the temperature for 30 minutes; adding the oil phase into the water phase, homogenizing at high speed and emulsifying for 5 minutes while the oil phase is hot, keeping the temperature for 30 minutes, stirring and cooling to 30-40 ℃, adding the preservative and the essence, stirring and cooling, and discharging when the temperature is kept at 30 ℃; aging for 72 hours, checking bacteria to be qualified, and filling.