CN112373135B - 一种透气性强的服饰面料及其印花工艺 - Google Patents

一种透气性强的服饰面料及其印花工艺 Download PDF

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CN112373135B
CN112373135B CN202011270546.0A CN202011270546A CN112373135B CN 112373135 B CN112373135 B CN 112373135B CN 202011270546 A CN202011270546 A CN 202011270546A CN 112373135 B CN112373135 B CN 112373135B
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谢正辉
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Guangzhou Yicheng Printing Co ltd
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Abstract

一种透气性强的服饰面料，属于纺织、印染技术领域，包括由上至下的表面层、疏松层和基底层，所述表面层和基底层均包括经纬编织的第一纱线和第二纱线，且相邻两根所述第一纱线与相邻两根所述第二纱线相交处形成中空的端通孔；所述疏松层包括经纬编织的第三纱线和第四纱线，且相邻两根所述第三纱线与相邻两根所述第四纱线相交处形成中空的中间通孔，所述表面层、疏松层和基底层之间通过第六纱线进行连接固定；并采用特殊的印花工艺制备而成。本发明通过提高浆料的固色效果，配合配合特殊的印花工艺，降低浆料使用量，并使用透气性强的面料，使得得到的印花服饰面料的整体透气性强，并且耐摩、耐水洗，适合推广应用。

Description

一种透气性强的服饰面料及其印花工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织、印染技术领域，具体涉及一种透气性强的服饰面料及其印花工艺。
背景技术
服饰上进行印花，可以大大提高服饰的美观、个性和装饰效果，也使得服装的风格更加多样化，因此，也受到了广大消费者的热烈追捧。然而，服饰表面进行大面积印花，就会大大降低服饰表面的透气性，使得衣服穿上很闷热，透气性差，舒适度也大大降低。
目前，有一些厂家研发出透气性的面料来解决印花服饰透气性差的问题，然而面料层数过多、累赘、复杂，也增加负担，还增加了制作成本，而且配合上传统的印花工艺，为了固色效果好使得面料上的印花浆料厚重，还是没能有效提高衣服的透气性，通风透气的效果不明显，透气性问题还是没能得到有效的解决。
因此，要达到有效提高印花服饰的透气性，除了透气型面料，还需要在印花工艺上进行改进，而且面料也应当尽量精简，相互协调，才能制作出透气性强、舒适度高、靓丽鲜艳的印花服饰。
发明内容
为了克服现有技术的不足，本发明的目的在于提供一种透气性强的服饰面料，该服饰面料透气性高，并且不影响面料表面的印花效果，整体稳固，通风透气。
本发明的目之二是提供一种透气性强的服饰面料的印花工艺，通过该工艺制作出的印花服饰固色效果极佳，能够保持印花色彩鲜艳，图案清晰，还能提高印花面料的透气性，并且耐摩、耐水洗，降低浆料的使用量。
本发明的目的通过以下技术方案实现：
一种透气性强的服饰面料，包括由上至下的表面层、疏松层和基底层，所述表面层和基底层均包括经纬编织的第一纱线和第二纱线，且相邻两根所述第一纱线与相邻两根所述第二纱线相交处形成中空的端通孔；所述疏松层包括经纬编织的第三纱线和第四纱线，且相邻两根所述第三纱线与相邻两根所述第四纱线相交处形成中空的中间通孔，所述端通孔与所述中间通孔的中垂线重合，且所述中间通孔的内径小于端通孔的内径，所述第一纱线和第二纱线的外径大于所述第三纱线和第四纱的外径，所述表面层、疏松层和基底层之间通过第六纱线进行连接固定。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述疏松层还包括与所述第三纱线平行的第五纱线，所述第五纱线位于所述第一纱线的正下方并处于所述中间通孔之间。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述表面层、疏松层和基底层之间通过所述第六纱线在竖直方向上缠绕所述表面层的第一纱线、第五纱线和的基底层的第一纱线进行连接固定，且所述第六纱线均匀分布，并位于中间通孔之间。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述第六纱线在所述第一纱线与第五纱线之间的连接处加捻。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述第一纱线和第二纱线的外径是所述第三纱线和第四纱的外径的两倍。
一种透气性强的服饰面料的印花工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)制备印花用的浆料；
(2)制作网版：用绷网机进行绷网，在网上均匀涂覆一层厚度为0.02-0.05μm的感光胶，晒网；
(3)将经过步骤(2)制作好的网板安装到印花机上，并添加印刷浆料，对印刷面料制品进行印刷，面料上的印刷浆料厚度为0.02-0.05μm，然后静置；
(4)经过步骤(3)静置完成后，将印刷制品与网板分离；进行烘烤，直至印刷浆料完全固化，得到成品。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述浆料包括以下物质：聚丙烯酸酯、琥珀酸烷基酯磺酸钠、丁二烯树脂、水性聚氨酯、淀粉磷酸酯、高分子交联剂、羧甲基纤维素钠、尼泊金丙酯、偏苯三酸三辛酯、酪蛋白酸钠、氮酮和单乙醇胺，以及去离子水。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述浆料中的物质所占重量百分比如下：聚丙烯酸酯32.0-42.0％、琥珀酸烷基酯磺酸钠1.0-4.0％、丁二烯树脂4.0-8.0％、水性聚氨酯2.0-6.0％、淀粉磷酸酯0.5-1.0％、高分子交联剂0.2-0.8％、羧甲基纤维素钠0.5-1.0％、尼泊金丙酯0.5-1.0％、偏苯三酸三辛酯0.5-1.5％、酪蛋白酸钠0.5-1.5％、氮酮0.5-1.5％、单乙醇胺0.5-2.5％，余量由去离子水加至100％。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述浆料还包括N-酰基肌氨酸盐和乙二胺四乙酸二钠。
进一步所采取的措施是：所述浆料N-酰基肌氨酸盐所占重量百分比为1.0-3.0％；所述乙二胺四乙酸二钠所占重量百分比为0.5-1.0％。
本发明中的浆料中通过添加聚丙烯酸酯、琥珀酸烷基酯磺酸钠、丁二烯树脂、水性聚氨酯作为浆料的主要成分，起到良好的粘合、成膜效果，但是这些物质比较粘稠浓密，所以导致衣服透气性降低。本发明通过添加氮酮和单乙醇胺，将氮酮、单乙醇胺与羧甲基纤维素钠和酪蛋白酸钠的进行有机结合，使其相互作用，发挥出优异分散色素，并进行固色的效果，从而降低聚丙烯酸酯、琥珀酸烷基酯磺酸钠、丁二烯树脂和水性聚氨酯等的是使用量，使得浆料偏疏松，同时固色效果好，配合特殊的印花工艺，印花过程中使用的浆料极少，极薄，从而避免增加衣服的负担，增强衣服的透气效果。
进过发明人的研究，在本发明中添加N-酰基肌氨酸盐，可以增强印花后的固色效果和耐磨性，避免褪色，还能进一步缓和、降低物质间的刺激性，起到良好的乳化效果和稳定效果。
本发明中的氮酮也起到良好的渗透、杀菌作用，并与尼泊金丙酯相互促进，使得整体具有良好的杀菌、抗菌效果，避免衣服上的印花沾到汗水后容易发黑，聚集细菌；还有淀粉磷酸酯具有抗氧化作用，避免物质容易氧化；同时本发明中的其他物质，各物质相互作用，使得整体发挥出优异的固色效果，并使得色素分散均匀，衣服上的印花不容易褪色，并具有抗菌的效果，从而使用极少的浆料就能进行印花，增强服饰上印花的透气效果，还能降低成本，节约生产所需时间。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有如下有益效果：
本发明主要通过改进服饰面料的结构，使得服饰面料分为三层，且疏松通气，配合网版印花工艺且面料上印刷极薄的浆料，降低负担方便透气，同时改进浆料的配方提高浆料的固色效果，使得浆料厚度极薄也能保证印花色彩牢固，不易褪色，从而统合综效，有效提高和保障服饰面料整体的透气性效果，并且耐摩擦、耐水洗，还能降低成本。
本发明透气性强的面料通过设置端通孔从而方便两端进行透气；而通过设置中间通孔，并且端通孔与所述中间通孔的中垂线重合，从而形成端部和中间贯通的透气孔，方便进行通风透气；而所述中间通孔的内径小于端通孔的内径，所述第一纱线和第二纱线的外径大于所述第三纱线和第四纱的外径，从而方便表面层和基底层的纱线形成较大的面积，方便印花，而中间层的纱线形成的面积较小，既能通风，又不至于孔洞过大或者太明显，从而既达到有效的通风透气的效果，也能方便进行印花；所述表面层、疏松层和基底层之间通过第六纱线进行连接固定，从而固定通孔的位置，也使得整体更加稳固。
附图说明
图1为本发明一种实施例的服饰面料的整体结构俯视图；
图2为本发明一种实施例的第六纱线的连接结构局部图；
图3为本发明一种实施例的表面层、疏松层、基底层的俯视图；
图中：1、表面层；2、疏松层；3、基底层；4、第一纱线；5、第二纱线；6、第三纱线；7、第四纱线；8、第五纱线；9、第六纱线；10、端通孔；11、中间通孔。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体实施例对本发明作进一步的详细说明。本说明书中所引用的如“上”、“内”、“中”、“左”、“右”及“一”等的用语，亦仅为便于叙述的明了，而非用以限定本发明可实施的范围，其相对关系的改变或调整，在无实质变更技术内容下，当亦视为本发明可实施的范畴。
如图1、3所示，一种透气性强的服饰面料，包括由上至下的表面层1、疏松层2和基底层3，表面层1和基底层3均包括经纬编织的第一纱线4和第二纱线5，且相邻两根第一纱线4与相邻两根第二纱线5相交处形成中空的端通孔10；疏松层2包括经纬编织的第三纱线6和第四纱线7，且相邻两根第三纱线6与相邻两根第四纱线7相交处形成中空的中间通孔11，端通孔10与中间通孔11的中垂线重合，且中间通孔11的内径小于端通孔10的内径，第一纱线4和第二纱线5的外径大于第三纱线6和第四纱的外径，表面层1、疏松层2和基底层3之间通过第六纱线9进行连接固定，从而固定通孔的位置，整体也更稳固。
通过设置端通孔10从而方便两端进行透气；而通过设置中间通孔11，并且端通孔10与中间通孔11的中垂线重合，从而形成端部和中间贯通的透气孔，方便进行通风透气；而中间通孔11的内径小于端通孔10的内径，第一纱线4和第二纱线5的外径大于第三纱线6和第四纱的外径，从而方便表面层1和基底层3的纱线形成较大的面积，方便印花，而中间层的纱线形成的面积较小，既能通风，又不至于孔洞过大或者太明显，从而既达到有效的通风透气的效果，也能方便进行印花；表面层1、疏松层2和基底层3之间通过第六纱线9进行连接固定，从而固定通孔的位置，也使得整体更加稳固，编织时可根据纺织机器调整具体的编织针法。
如图1-3所示，疏松层2还包括与第三纱线6平行的第五纱线8，第五纱线8位于第一纱线4的正下方并处于中间通孔11之间，从而在表面层1与基底层3之间形成支撑，避免变形，而设置与中间通孔11之间，不影响中间通孔11和端通孔10的透气通风，也不至于太紧贴中间通孔11，在中间的疏松层2形成疏松的结构，方便中间层内部气流流通，从而既能进一步稳固中间层，也能加强透气效果。
如图1-3所示，表面层1、疏松层2和基底层3之间通过第六纱线9在竖直方向上缠绕表面层1的第一纱线4、第五纱线8和的基底层3的第一纱线4进行连接固定，且第六纱线9均匀分布，并位于中间通孔11之间，从而均匀对整体进行固定，保持中间层的疏松结构。第六纱线9在第一纱线4与第五纱线8之间的连接处加捻，通过加捻使得中间层与表面层1和基底层3之间增加一定的支撑，并保持一定的距离，从而进一步增强中间疏松层2的疏松感，进一步加强透风透气的效果，即使在表面层1涂上印花浆料后，中层的疏松层2还能进行透气、通风，不至于太闷热，从而增强舒适感。第一纱线4和第二纱线5的外径是第三纱线6和第四纱的外径的两倍，可达到最佳的透气效果。
采用上述透气性强的服饰面料进行的印花工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)制备印花用的浆料；
(2)制作网版：用绷网机进行绷网，在网上均匀涂覆一层厚度为0.02-0.05μm的感光胶，晒网；
(3)将经过步骤(2)制作好的网板安装到印花机上，并添加印刷浆料，对印刷面料制品进行印刷，面料上的印刷浆料厚度为0.02-0.05μm，然后静置；
(4)经过步骤(3)静置完成后，将印刷制品与网板分离；进行烘烤，直至印刷浆料完全固化，得到成品。
通过在网上均匀涂覆一层厚度为0.02-0.05μm的感光胶，在面料上的印刷浆料厚度为0.02-0.05μm，使得感光胶与浆料都采用极薄的涂层，降低面料上印花厚度，减少负担，方便透气，不至于太闷，太厚重，再通过上述透气服饰面料进行印花，相互协调，大大增强了整体的透气效果。
上述印花工艺实中，所用浆料进行了无数个实施试验研究，本发明选取其中最具代表性的5个实施例进行展示，实施例1-5的浆料，以及对比例1-3的浆料中的具体物质及各物质所占重量百分比情况如下表1所示。
表1：实施例1-5和对比例1-3的浆料中的具体物质及占比
Figure BDA0002777522300000081
Figure BDA0002777522300000091
利用上述实施例的透气性强的服饰面料，分别采用表1实施例1-5和对比例1-3的浆料并按照上述印花工艺进行制作，得到实施例1-5，以及对比例1-3透气性强的服饰面料成品。
在市场上采购常规合格的印花服饰面料产品作为对照组1的产品，与实施例和对比例进行色牢度对比试验。
1.水洗涤色牢度对比试验：使用上述实施例1-5、对比例1-3的成品，以及对照组1的产品，利用耐水洗色牢度仪器，每组样品进行3次洗涤试验，并根据洗涤后色泽变化的程度，采用标准灰色分级样卡进行评定，进行测试试验样品原样与洗涤试验后试验样品褪色的色差来进行评判，由差到优分为1级、2级、3级、4级和5级，其中5级最好，1级最差，记录下试验结果，进行汇总取测试的最低值和最高值，结果如下表2所示。
表2：水洗涤色牢度对比试验结果
Figure BDA0002777522300000101
由上表结果可以明显看出，本实施例1-5得到的印花服饰面料的水洗涤色牢度显著高于市面上常规的印花服饰面料产品的色牢度，特别是实施例1、2、4和5得到的印花服饰面料的水洗涤色牢度的最低测试等级也均在4级以上，且实施例1的测试结果等级达到5级，因此本实施例的产品具有优异的固色效果，耐水洗性能强。其中氮酮、单乙醇胺、羧甲基纤维素钠和酪蛋白酸钠，以及N-酰基肌氨酸盐相互协调，发挥出的分散色素和固色的效果，而且缺少其中一种成分，固色效果都会相差甚远。其中实施例1为最优实施例。
2.磨擦色牢度对比试验：使用上述实施例1-5、对比例1-3的成品，以及对照组1的产品，利用耐磨擦色牢度仪器进行摩擦试验，以白布沾色程度作为评价标准，为1级、2级、3级、4级和5级，其中5级最好，1级最差，进行测试试验样品原样与经过磨擦后试验样品的掉色程度进行评判，记录下试验结果，进行汇总取测试的最低值和最高值，结果如下表3所示。
表3：磨擦色牢度对比试验结果
Figure BDA0002777522300000111
由上表3可以看出，本实施例1-5得到的印花服饰面料的磨擦色牢度显著高于市面上常规的印花服饰面料产品的色牢度的级别，特别是实施例1、2、4和5的级别均在4级以上。由此可见，本实施例的产品具有优异的耐磨固色效果，耐摩擦性能优异。而且由实施例3、对比例1-3也可以看出，氮酮、单乙醇胺、羧甲基纤维素钠和酪蛋白酸钠，以及N-酰基肌氨酸盐在耐磨固色效果上发挥了重要的作用，缺少其中一种成分，耐磨固色效果都会相差甚远，都难以达到最佳状态，其中实施例1为综合性能最优的实施例。
通过提高浆料的固色效果，配合特殊的印花工艺，降低浆料使用量，并使用透气性强的面料，使得得到的印花服饰面料的整体透气性强，且印花效果极佳，耐摩、耐水洗，适合推广应用。
本发明的实施方式不限于此，按照本发明的上述内容，利用本领域的普通技术知识和惯用手段，在不脱离本发明上述基本技术思想前提下，本发明还可以做出其它多种形式的修改、替换或组合，均落在本发明权利保护范围之内。

Claims (5)

1.一种透气性强的服饰面料，其特征在于：包括由上至下的表面层、疏松层和基底层，所述表面层和基底层均包括经纬编织的第一纱线和第二纱线，且相邻两根所述第一纱线与相邻两根所述第二纱线相交处形成中空的端通孔；所述疏松层包括经纬编织的第三纱线和第四纱线，且相邻两根所述第三纱线与相邻两根所述第四纱线相交处形成中空的中间通孔，所述端通孔与所述中间通孔的中垂线重合，且所述中间通孔的内径小于端通孔的内径，所述第一纱线和第二纱线的外径大于所述第三纱线和第四纱的外径，所述表面层、疏松层和基底层之间通过第六纱线进行连接固定；
所述服饰面料的印花工艺包括有以下步骤：
(1)制备印花用的浆料，所述浆料中的物质所占重量百分比为：聚丙烯酸酯32.0-42.0％、琥珀酸烷基酯磺酸钠1.0-4.0％、丁二烯树脂4.0-8.0％、水性聚氨酯2.0-6.0％、淀粉磷酸酯0.5-1.0％、高分子交联剂0.2-0.8％、羧甲基纤维素钠0.5-1.0％、尼泊金丙酯0.5-1.0％、偏苯三酸三辛酯0.5-1.5％、酪蛋白酸钠0.5-1.5％、氮酮0.5-1.5％、单乙醇胺0.5-2.5％，N-酰基肌氨酸盐1.0-3.0％，乙二胺四乙酸二钠0.5-1.0％，余量由去离子水加至100％；
(2)制作网版：用绷网机进行绷网，在网上均匀涂覆一层厚度为0.02-0.05μm的感光胶，晒网；
(3)将经过步骤(2)制作好的网板安装到印花机上，并添加印刷浆料，对印刷面料制品进行印刷，面料上的印刷浆料厚度为0.02-0.05μm，然后静置；
(4)经过步骤(3)静置完成后，将印刷制品与网板分离；进行烘烤，直至印刷浆料完全固化，得到成品。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气性强的服饰面料，其特征在于：所述疏松层还包括与所述第三纱线平行的第五纱线，所述第五纱线位于所述第一纱线的正下方并处于所述中间通孔之间。
3.根据权利要求2所述的一种透气性强的服饰面料，其特征在于：所述表面层、疏松层和基底层之间通过所述第六纱线在竖直方向上缠绕所述表面层的第一纱线、第五纱线和基底层的第一纱线进行连接固定，且所述第六纱线均匀分布，并位于中间通孔之间。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种透气性强的服饰面料，其特征在于：所述第六纱线在所述第一纱线与第五纱线之间的连接处加捻。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种透气性强的服饰面料，其特征在于：所述第一纱线和第二纱线的外径是所述第三纱线和第四纱的外径的两倍。
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