CN112111833A - Double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure and weaving method thereof - Google Patents

Double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure and weaving method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112111833A
CN112111833A CN202010983920.5A CN202010983920A CN112111833A CN 112111833 A CN112111833 A CN 112111833A CN 202010983920 A CN202010983920 A CN 202010983920A CN 112111833 A CN112111833 A CN 112111833A
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China
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stepping
heddle
weft
color
healds
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李军
田若兰
胡涛
毛春霞
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Hubei University for Nationalities
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Hubei University for Nationalities
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Looms (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of weaving, and particularly discloses a double-warp bottomless weft brocade surface structure which comprises a plurality of organization structure units, wherein each organization unit comprises four parallel warps and two wefts, the two wefts are basically crossed at right angles with the warps, the four warps are respectively marked as a first warp, a second warp, a third warp and a fourth warp from left to right, and the two wefts are respectively marked as a first weft and a second weft from top to bottom; the position needing to penetrate color weft takes three warp healds which are not used as permanent press faces as a first weft which penetrates through the needle, the second weft penetrates through the needle after the needle is tightened, the position needing to penetrate color weft is not needed, the warp where the permanent press faces are located is selected, and the problems that the Tujia brocade woven by the traditional single-face bottom weft weaving method is only available on a single face, multiple thread ends on the reverse face are not attractive, and the product application is limited are solved.

Description

Double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure and weaving method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of weaving, particularly discloses a double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure and a weaving method thereof, and particularly relates to a novel Tujia double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure and a weaving method thereof.
Background
With the development of society, the high-efficiency living state leads people to have higher interest in accepting high technology than the original hand weaving technology, which leads the hand weaving technology of minority nationalities in China to be endangered.
Tujia brocade is called 'Xilankapu' in Tujia language, and is originated from the week of commerce, and the Ming and Qing tend to be perfect. The broccoli is regarded as a precipitate of the history culture of the Tujia and has a strong life smell and a clear national character. It has bright color, novel pattern, simple and elegant integral effect and dazzling luster. It uses silk, cotton and hemp as raw material, uses red, blue and black as the cotton thread colour of warp thread of brocade, and the weft thread can be determined by weaver, and can be made into various colours. On a Tujia brocade weaving machine, the front is woven by hands with the back of the hands seen, and the fabric is woven by a method of stimulating the menstrual flow and breaking the weft.
The traditional Tujia brocade knitting method is called a single-side bottom-bottom weft knitting method, the Tujia brocade knitted by the single-side bottom-bottom weft knitting method is available only on one side, has multiple thread ends on the back side, cannot be used on two sides, is not beautiful, and has a plurality of limitations when being applied to products; the threads on the saruo are called bottom wefts, all the traditional Tujia brocade with the bottom wefts are Tujia brocade with the bottom wefts, and the brocade with the bottom wefts is added with black in color, so that the purity of the pattern color is reduced.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the invention provides a double-warp bottomless weft brocade surface structure and a weaving method thereof, aiming at solving the problem that the product application is limited due to the fact that the Tujia brocade woven by the traditional single-side bottomless weft weaving method is only available on one side, the back side is provided with multiple thread ends and is not attractive.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides a method for weaving double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade, which comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 2 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the No. 2 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 1 heald, the No. 3 heald and the No. 4 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 2 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then stepping down a stick where No. 4 healds are located and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 1 healds, No. 3 healds and No. 4 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 2 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 4 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with a stepping rod A and a stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping rod where the No. 4 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping rods, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 1 heald, the No. 3 heald and the No. 2 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 4 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then, stepping down the stick on which the No. 2 heald is positioned, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 1 healds, No. 3 healds and No. 2 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 4 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 1 heddle is used as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the heald No. 1 is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the healds No. 2, the healds No. 4 and the healds No. 3 are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the healds No. 1 are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then, stepping down the stick on which the No. 3 heald is positioned, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting a color weft inserting mode in the step B, taking No. 2 healds, No. 4 healds and No. 3 healds as a needle color weft inserting mode in the pattern, picking out No. 1 healds for inserting same-color weft and tightening the same-color weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 3 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the No. 3 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 2 heald, the No. 4 heald and the No. 1 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 3 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then stepping down the stick where No. 1 heald is positioned and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 2 healds, No. 4 healds and No. 1 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 3 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
A double-warp bottomless weft brocade surface structure is manufactured by adopting the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft brocade, and comprises a plurality of weave structure units, wherein each weave structure unit comprises four parallel warps and two wefts, the two wefts are basically crossed at right angles with the warps, the four warps are respectively marked as a first warp, a second warp, a third warp and a fourth warp from left to right, and the two wefts are respectively marked as a first weft and a second weft from top to bottom;
the position needing to penetrate color weft takes three warp healds which are not used as permanent press surfaces as a first weft which is penetrated by a needle, the second weft is penetrated after the first weft is tightened, and the warp where the permanent press surfaces are located is selected out without the position needing to penetrate color weft.
The working principle and the beneficial effects of the scheme are as follows:
compared with the traditional single-side bottomed weft weaving method, the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft brocade disclosed by the invention has the following advantages:
1. compared with the traditional single-side weaving method with the bottom weft, the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft brocade disclosed by the invention is simpler, easy to learn, convenient to manufacture and suitable for large-scale popularization.
2. According to the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-free brocade disclosed by the invention, the weaved Tujia brocade has no thread end on the back surface, the color purity is higher, the purity is improved, and the saturation of the Tujia brocade pattern is higher and the Tujia brocade pattern is more exquisite.
3. The weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft brocade disclosed by the invention is ingenious in design, and the thread ends can be just hidden, so that the back surface is more attractive, and the weaving method can be more convenient and faster when being used in products.
4. The brocade woven by the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft brocade disclosed by the invention has a double-sided ornamental effect, can be used on both sides, has a wider use surface, and can be used for making clothes or ornaments.
5. According to the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-free brocade disclosed by the invention, the density of the woven brocade is smaller, the brocade is more compact, and the finished product is more exquisite.
Additional advantages, objects, and features of the invention will be set forth in part in the description which follows and in part will become apparent to those having ordinary skill in the art upon examination of the following or may be learned from practice of the invention. The objectives and other advantages of the invention may be realized and attained by the means of the instrumentalities and combinations particularly pointed out hereinafter.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a double-warp no-bottom weft brocade surface structure of the invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the connection between a stepping rod and a heddle in a double-warp no-bottom weft or a three-warp one-weft brocade weaving method of comparative example 1 according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing the connection between a stepping rod and a heddle in a double-warp no-bottom weft weaving method in example 2 of the present invention or a three-warp one-weft weaving method in comparative example 2;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a three-warp one-weft brocade surface straight grain structure in the prior art;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a prior art three-warp one-weft brocade face twill weave structure;
fig. 6 is a front view of a heddle splitting in a conventional vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine;
FIG. 7 is a schematic diagram of the warp separating, drafting and reeding in the existing vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine;
FIG. 8 is a schematic structural diagram of a front side of a conventional vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine;
fig. 9 is a schematic view of a back structure of a conventional vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine.
In the drawings: the device comprises a spring 1, a reed 2, a heald frame 3, a brocade frame 4, a warp beam winding shaft 5, a spring fixing frame 6, a brocade winding shaft 7, a hand rocking handle 8, a transmission shaft 9, a worm wheel 10, a worm 11, a heald splitting operating rod 12, a buckle 13 and a gear 14.
Detailed Description
The following is further detailed by way of specific embodiments:
as shown in fig. 6-9, a steel buckle and a bracket, a warp winding shaft 5 and a brocade winding shaft 7 are arranged on a brocade frame 4, heddles and heald frames 3 hooked by springs 1 are arranged above the brocade frame 4, the lower parts of the heddles and the heald frames 3 are connected to the brocade frame 4 through chains and heald splitting operation rods 12, and the brocade frame 4 is provided with the brocade winding shaft 7 and a spring fixing frame 6 for storing the brocade; the lower part of the brocade frame 4 is provided with a warp winding shaft 5 for storing silk threads, and the warp winding shaft 5 is controlled by a hand crank 8 through a worm wheel 10, a worm 11 and a transmission shaft 9; therefore, the brocade weaving person can shake the long shaft to drive the warp rolling shaft 5 to rotate, the tightness degree of warps can be easily adjusted, and the warp can be accurately adjusted to be more than millimeters. The brocade frame 4 is provided with a buckle 13 and a gear 14 for clamping the brocade rolling shaft 7. The reel shaft 7 is provided with a spring 1 which can automatically clamp. The warp winding shaft 5 is provided with a spring 1 which is automatically clamped. A plurality of metal wires with round holes in the middle are fixedly arranged between the heald frames 3, and the metal wires are used for replacing heald wires, so that the problem of the friction pilling between the original heald wires and warp threads is solved. In the existing three-warp one-weft brocade weaving method, three layers of warps are subjected to layered management, and each heald frame 3 corresponds to one heald dividing operating rod 12, so that the method is clear and is not easy to make mistakes. In the double-warp bottomless weft-weft brocade weaving method, the original brocade weaving machine is continuously adopted. The upper part of each heald frame 3 is hung on the upper part of the brocade frame 4 through the heald lifting spring 1, the height of each layer of warp is adjusted, and the situation that the heights of the warp in the same layer are inconsistent can not occur. By applying the lever principle, the reed 2 is arranged on a support, the lower part of the support is fixed on the two sides of the weaving machine, a fulcrum is obtained, the reed 2 is easily shaken on the support, and the brocade can be tightly beaten without labor and with even force. Completely abandons the mode of tightening by a shuttle through physical force. The spring 1 is used for replacing a support, the two sides of the spring 1 are respectively provided with the spring 1, one end of the spring 1 is fixed on a spring 1 fixing frame parallel to the brocade surface, the other end of the spring 1 hooks the brocade and is tensioned outwards, the spring 1 can move parallelly every 2CM along with the increase of the length of the brocade, and therefore the consistency of the width and the tightness of the brocade is kept. The width of the loom is greatly expanded, from dozens of centimeters to several meters, and more products with wider breadth can be developed. The left side and the right side of the brocade weaving machine are respectively provided with a tool box.
Fig. 7 is a schematic diagram of warp dividing, heald dividing and reeding in the existing vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine, the warp is divided into 1-2 and 1-2 through the warp dividing roller, the warp conveniently passes through the small holes in the heald frames 1, 2, 3 and 4 in sequence, then the warp 1 and 2 penetrates into the first reed according to the sequence, the warp 3 and 4 penetrates into the second reed, and the operation is repeated until all the warp configuration is completed.
The double-warp bottomless weft weaving method has two implementation schemes, one scheme still uses a vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine as a weaving device, the other scheme uses an Tujia brocade intelligent weaving machine as a weaving device, and the working principle of the intelligent weaving machine is the same as that of the vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine.
In order to improve the production efficiency, on the premise of fully retaining the non-material cultural heritage, the modern intelligent technology is combined, so that the tradition collides with the reality to wipe out different sparks. Tujia brocade also can weave on intelligence brocade machine, promotion that can to a great extent weaves efficiency.
The intelligent Tujia brocade weaving machine consists of electronic jacquard control system, full-function rapier loom, electronic weft selector and tensioner. The specific working process is as follows:
A. on the electronic jacquard control system, the pattern to be woven is selected.
B. And (3) putting the weft threads required by the pattern on No. 1-7 interfaces of the electronic weft selector according to the sequence, and connecting No. 8 weft threads with black bottom.
C. Opening a full-function rapier loom control box, monitoring the weaving condition of the rapier loom in real time, wherein three yellow, green and red alarm lamps are arranged on the control box, any one alarm lamp is turned on, the rapier loom stops weaving, the loom can not recover the working state until the corresponding problem is solved, and when the yellow lamp is turned on, the weft is indicated to be missing, and the weft needs to be checked and added; when the green light is on, the weaving error of the weft is indicated, the shuttle needs to be checked and retreated, and the weft with the weaving error is retreated; when detecting that warp is broken, the red alarm lamp lights, and the broken warp needs to be connected.
D. And opening the tensioner, setting conventional tension, paying attention to the tightness of warps on the rapier loom at any time during weaving, and adjusting in time.
E. Pressing a jog button on the rapier loom once to weave a shuttle, starting to press the shuttle for several times, observing whether the weft outlet of the electronic weft selector is normal or not and whether the tightness of the warp is proper or not, and starting to weave after detecting that the weft is correct.
F. In the weaving process, corresponding adjustment is made according to the indication of a signal lamp on the control box of the full-function rapier loom.
G. The working principle of the Tujia brocade intelligent weaving machine is the same as that of the vertical Tujia brocade weaving machine, each tissue structure unit is composed of four warps, and No. 2 warps or No. 4 warps are alternately used as surface pressing warps.
Example 1
As shown in fig. 2, the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 2 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the No. 2 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 1 heald, the No. 3 heald and the No. 4 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 2 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then stepping down a stick where No. 4 healds are located and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 1 healds, No. 3 healds and No. 4 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 2 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
Example 2
As shown in fig. 2, the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 4 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with a stepping rod A and a stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping rod where the No. 4 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping rods, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 1 heald, the No. 3 heald and the No. 2 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 4 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then, stepping down the stick on which the No. 2 heald is positioned, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 1 healds, No. 3 healds and No. 2 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 4 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
Example 3
As shown in fig. 3, the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 1 heddle is used as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the heald No. 1 is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the healds No. 2, the healds No. 4 and the healds No. 3 are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the healds No. 1 are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then, stepping down the stick on which the No. 3 heald is positioned, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting a color weft inserting mode in the step B, taking No. 2 healds, No. 4 healds and No. 3 healds as a needle color weft inserting mode in the pattern, picking out No. 1 healds for inserting same-color weft and tightening the same-color weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
Example 4
As shown in fig. 3, the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-knitted fabric comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 3 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the No. 3 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 2 heald, the No. 4 heald and the No. 1 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 3 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then stepping down the stick where No. 1 heald is positioned and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 2 healds, No. 4 healds and No. 1 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 3 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
As shown in fig. 1, a double-warp bottomless weft-knitted fabric surface structure manufactured by the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-knitted fabric in example 2 includes a plurality of weave structure units, each weave unit includes four parallel warps and two wefts, the two wefts are basically crossed at right angles with the warps, the four warps are respectively marked as a first warp, a second warp, a third warp and a fourth warp from left to right, and the two wefts are respectively marked as a first weft and a second weft from top to bottom; in the attached drawings, the stripes indicate that the fourth warp is the surface pressing warp, and the dots indicate that the first warp, the second warp and the third warp are the surface pressing warp.
The position of the color weft needs to be penetrated, three warp wires, namely the first warp wire, the second warp wire and the third warp wire, which are not used as the permanent press surface are heald to be used as a needle to penetrate the first weft wire, the second weft wire is penetrated after the needle is tightened, the position of the color weft does not need to be penetrated, and the fourth warp wire where the permanent press surface is located is selected.
The single-sided Tujia brocade only has patterns on the front side, has multiple thread ends on the back side, is not attractive, can be used on only one side, cannot be used on two sides, and has limitation when being made into a product.
The Tujia brocade with the bottom weft has more black lines in color, so that the purity of the pattern color is reduced, the Tujia brocade woven by the weaving method without the bottom weft has higher color purity, the saturation of the Tujia brocade pattern is higher, and the fabric is more exquisite.
The brocade surface weaved by the double-warp bottomless weft brocade weaving method has the advantages that double surfaces can be used, the saturation degree of patterns is higher, and compared with the traditional weaving method with single surface having bottom weft, the weaving method with double surfaces and no bottom weft can be viewed from both sides in appearance, and the viewing value is higher; in the aspect of application, the fabric can be used on two sides, the application range is wider, the product is more convenient to manufacture, and the handicraft product which is more convenient to combine with the modern product is pursued for the current days that the manual weaving technology is running off.
Comparative example 1
As shown in fig. 2, the weaving method of the three-warp one-weft brocade comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 2 heddle or the No. 4 heddle serves as a permanent pressure surface warp, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar (A stepping bar or C stepping bar) serving as permanent press surface warp threads, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts;
C. stepping on the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C simultaneously, penetrating ground weft from right to left, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on a stepping stick B, and penetrating ground weft from left to right to tighten;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
Comparative example 2
As shown in fig. 3, the weaving method of the three-warp one-weft brocade comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 1 heddle or the No. 3 heddle serves as a permanent pressure surface warp, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar (A stepping bar or C stepping bar) serving as permanent press surface warp threads, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts;
C. stepping on the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C simultaneously, penetrating ground weft from right to left, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on a stepping stick B, and penetrating ground weft from left to right to tighten;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
As shown in fig. 4, the three-warp one-weft brocade-surface straight-grain weave structure manufactured by the method comprises a plurality of weave structure units, wherein each weave structure unit comprises four parallel warps and two wefts, the two wefts are basically crossed at right angles with the warps, the four warps are respectively marked as a first warp, a second warp, a third warp and a fourth warp from left to right, and the two wefts are respectively marked as a first weft and a second weft from top to bottom;
the first warp, the second warp and the third warp are arranged below the first weft and the second weft; the fourth warp covers the first weft and the second weft.
As shown in fig. 5, the three-warp one-weft brocade surface twill weave structure is manufactured by the weaving method of the three-warp one-weft brocade, and comprises a plurality of weave structure units, wherein each weave unit comprises four parallel warps and two wefts, the two wefts are basically crossed at right angles with the warps, the four warps are respectively marked as a first warp, a second warp, a third warp and a fourth warp from left to right, and the two wefts are respectively marked as a first weft and a second weft from top to bottom;
wherein the first warp is below the first weft and the second weft; the second warp is arranged below the first weft, and the second warp covers the second weft; the third warp is arranged below the first weft and the second weft; the fourth warp threads cover the first weft threads, and the fourth warp threads are below the second weft threads.
The above description is only an example of the present invention, and the common general knowledge of the known specific structures and characteristics in the embodiments is not described herein. It should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, without departing from the structure of the present invention, several changes and modifications can be made, which should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention, and these will not affect the effect of the implementation of the present invention and the practicability of the present invention.

Claims (5)

1. A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 2 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the No. 2 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 1 heald, the No. 3 heald and the No. 4 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 2 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then stepping down a stick where No. 4 healds are located and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 1 healds, No. 3 healds and No. 4 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 2 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
2. A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 4 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are respectively connected with a stepping rod A and a stepping rod C or the No. 4 heddle and the No. 2 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping rod where the No. 4 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping rods, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 1 heald, the No. 3 heald and the No. 2 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 4 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then, stepping down the stick on which the No. 2 heald is positioned, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 1 healds, No. 3 healds and No. 2 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 4 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
3. A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 1 heddle is used as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the heald No. 1 is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the healds No. 2, the healds No. 4 and the healds No. 3 are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the healds No. 1 are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then, stepping down the stick on which the No. 3 heald is positioned, and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting a color weft inserting mode in the step B, taking No. 2 healds, No. 4 healds and No. 3 healds as a needle color weft inserting mode in the pattern, picking out No. 1 healds for inserting same-color weft and tightening the same-color weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
4. A weaving method of double-warp bottomless weft brocade is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
A. four sub-heddles of the healds are respectively connected with three stepping rods of a pedal, the four sub-heddles are sequentially a No. 1 heddle, a No. 2 heddle, a No. 3 heddle and a No. 4 heddle from top to bottom, the No. 3 heddle is taken as a permanent pressure surface meridian, the No. 1 heddle and the No. 3 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C or the No. 3 heddle and the No. 1 heddle are respectively connected with the stepping rod A and the stepping rod C, and the No. 2 heddle and the No. 4 heddle are both connected with the stepping rod B;
B. stepping on a stepping bar where the No. 3 heald is positioned, putting another two stepping bars, and threading color wefts, wherein when the color wefts are threaded according to the patterns, the No. 2 heald, the No. 4 heald and the No. 1 heald are firstly used as one-needle threading color wefts on the reverse side, and when the color wefts do not need to be threaded, the No. 3 healds are picked out and the color wefts with the same color are threaded;
C. then stepping down the stick where No. 1 heald is positioned and tightening;
D. placing a stepping stick A and a stepping stick C, stepping on the stepping stick B, adopting the mode of color weft insertion in the step B, taking No. 2 healds, No. 4 healds and No. 1 healds as a needle color weft insertion in the original pattern, picking out No. 3 healds for color weft insertion in the same color and tightening the pattern weft;
E. and repeating the rounds from the step B to the step D until the completion.
5. The double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure is characterized by being manufactured by adopting the weaving method of the double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade, and comprising a plurality of organizational structure units, wherein each organizational structure unit comprises four parallel warps and two wefts, the two wefts are basically crossed at right angles with the warps, the four warps are respectively marked as a first warp, a second warp, a third warp and a fourth warp from left to right, and the two wefts are respectively marked as a first weft and a second weft from top to bottom;
the position needing to penetrate color weft takes three warp healds which are not used as permanent press surfaces as a first weft which is penetrated by a needle, the second weft is penetrated after the first weft is tightened, and the warp where the permanent press surfaces are located is selected out without the position needing to penetrate color weft.
CN202010983920.5A 2020-09-18 2020-09-18 Double-warp bottomless weft-knitted brocade surface structure and weaving method thereof Withdrawn CN112111833A (en)

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JP2001032147A (en) * 1999-07-13 2001-02-06 Art Graphic Tada:Kk Production of free weave and multicolored weave woven by using weft yarn comprising many kinds of colored yarns
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