JP2001032147A - Production of free weave and multicolored weave woven by using weft yarn comprising many kinds of colored yarns - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To feed weft yarns comprising many kinds of colored yarns as a mechanically woven figured fancy crepe woven fabric of a weft unlined weave design consisting essentially of a thin weft unlined figured fancy crepe and incorporating a high-class feeling of gaps in a handwoven brocade in agreement with the life of moderns while retaining the appearance of a crepe fabric. SOLUTION: This high-class woven fabric is obtained by operating warp yarns 23, 24, etc., with a one grouped harness jacquard and many shuttles of 4 to 12 shuttles, carrying out the crossing and turning back of two kinds of colored weft yarns 21 and 22 such as crossing and turning back of the weft yarn 21 with the warp yarn 24 and crossing and turning back of the weft yarn 22 with the warp yarn 23 and taking a design means for conducting the weaving so that the gap texture does not appear on the woven fabric surface even when forming a turning back textile weave of the colored weft yarns 21 and 22 from a crossover point 27 in the woven fabric having a fancy unlined textile weave woven from one kind of yarn in a warp yarn and a slender ground weft yarn of the full weaving width and a thick weft yarn, etc., in a weft yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a crepe design crepe fabric which is generally referred to as a crest design crepe as a Tango chirimen woven fabric and is produced as a high quality knit fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, crest design crepe has been generally used, and there is a weaving double crepe using a knitted knitting yarn for a warp, a strongly twisted yarn for a ground weft, a tussah silk yarn for a picture weft, and a picture on a plain weave made by the ground. The weft is expressed by weft and is woven as a representative fabric of Tango Chirimen fabric.

[0003]

The present invention, on the other hand, is based on a thin, single-patterned design crepe that matches the tastes of today's young people, while maintaining the texture of the cloth of Chirimen, while maintaining the fineness of the spelled and woven sword. It is an object of the present invention to provide a crest design crepe woven fabric having a single weave crepe with a feeling.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention employs a hand-woven weft weaving technique as a means for constructing a high-grade crepe woven fabric having a single weave crepe. Since the colored yarn is woven only in the pattern portion without passing through the whole, a gap (hanging) occurs at the boundary between the weft and the other weft. Also, in one type of brocade, a weft and another weft are tied together and entangled. In the present invention, what can only be done by hand weaving, by using a combination of various types of wefts dyed in various colors in a mechanical loom using a multi-shed shuttle, the thick weft to be woven in a single weave, Even when the weft is weaved in the sewing mode during weaving,
There are no gaps in the turn of the thick weft, and even when machine-woven with a multi-shed, the weaving structure can be various types of weaving, such as spelling and brocade, which do not open steps or gaps. It is a means of machine weaving with hanging one piece.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0006]

Since the present invention comprises the above-described weaving means and a woven structure, while forming the weft dyed in color into a pattern, the weft is colored at the pattern edge like a kind of weaving or spelling weave. By folding back the weft, it is possible to create a thin and delicate pattern of the fabric while delicately combining it with the ground structure of various structures.

[0007]

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below.

First, prior to the description of the embodiments, a past weaving method will be described.

FIG. 9 shows a type of weaving (shokusei), which is a kind of brocade weaving by hand weaving, which is systematically transformed from plain weaving. It is said that it is only seen. That is, one kind of relatively thick yarn, or a thick yarn and a thin yarn are alternately arranged in the warp, while the weft is a structure in which a thin ground and two or three thick colored yarns of the combination are alternately woven. As is apparent from FIG. 9, the overlapping part closing point 25 of the two kinds of color wefts 21 and 22 and the warp 23 rises to show a varied ground breeze. Has passed through the full width of the weave, so there is no seam seen in the weave.

FIG. 10 shows the structure of the sewn-weave, in which the weave is woven in a state in which the warp is wrapped around the warp by plain weaving and the weft is wrapped around the warp. This indicates that there is a gap (hanging hole) at the boundary between the wefts.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, since the warp yarns 23, 24 and the like are not stretched as strongly as the sewn weave, no gap (hanging hole) is formed at the boundary of the weft, and the wrapping of the color wefts 21, 22 and the like is performed. , Forming a woven pattern with the same high-class atmosphere as spelling.

FIG. 7 shows a case in which a similar woven fabric of the present invention is currently used for chirimen weaving and a single pot is woven using a double-sided shuttle on a pine needle hanging and holding type loom. When the weft 28 passes through the pattern location at the end of the warp 30, the entire warp 30 and the like are dropped, the weft 28 is not entangled with the warp 30 and the like, but is allowed to pass through, and then the feeding operation of the warp 30, 31, 32 and the like is performed. It is shown that the operation is stopped and then the same operation is performed on the weft 29 in the same procedure as the weft 28.

Therefore, since the floating wefts 28-1 and 29-1 are unnecessary, as shown in FIG. 8, the leading ends of the wefts other than the pattern portion are cut off and the weft tufts 28-2 and 29-2 are cut off. −
2 are left. This is the widely used and recognized weaving method today.

A technique in which the thread passing between the jacquard and the power loom is suspended by pine needles, and a technique in which various types of wefts (including colored yarns) are used in a multi-shutter, such as a double weave or a triple weave. Although the woven fabric is woven in the sewing mode, the woven fabric used is limited. On the other hand, the woven fabric of the present invention is woven by hanging one by one, and there is an advantage that the tissue is not limited and the tissue can be freely selected.

Next, an embodiment of the present invention will be specifically described.

According to the present invention, the overlapping portion of the two kinds of colored yarns 21 and 22 and the warp 23, that is, the closing point 25, of the woven fabric shown in FIG. 9 intersects with the warp 23 as shown in FIG. And one warp 23, 24, etc. is operated by hanging one warp, and the two kinds of color wefts 21 and 22 are replaced by the warp 2
4 and the color weft 22 intersect with the warp 23, and a means for weaving and weaving the color wefts 21 and 22 in a folded structure from the overlap point 27 is taken. Therefore, the present invention provides the same 1
It is the main hanging, and the overlapping portion 27 of the weft at the turning point is
There is an advantage that it does not rise as much as the closing point 25 of the woven portion.

The fabric structure of the present invention shown in FIG. 1 has basic fabric structures A-, A-, A- in the width direction of the fabric.
Or a woven fabric state in which different basic structures are combined and woven. When these tissues are used in a single-handle hanging, the effect is exhibited. When this is performed in a conventional two-hand hanging pine needle suspension, a rough tissue is formed, and the tissues to be used are limited. It differs from the woven structure. FIG. 4 and FIG. 5 show the representative basic fabric organization diagrams.

The standard use conditions for weaving with the basic fabric structure diagram of FIG. 4 are shown below as an example. Warp 21 21/3 yarns, 21/3 yarns, weft 21/9 yarns, 21/9 plain yarns 21/4 yarns (tussam silk, heaven silk) Pongee, ball yarn, colored yarn The above-mentioned weft is used for picture nuki 21 medium / 6 strong twisted yarn, various twisted Z twisted yarn 21 medium / 6 strong twisted yarn, various twisted S twisted yarn The following weft is used for ground null density (92 birds / whale size 4) Main draw-in) Warp (27 / tune 2 minutes) Weft

In the present invention, when the weft 21 is reversed at the overlapping portion 27 as shown in FIG.
And the weft yarn 22 must cross the warp yarn 23. Therefore, it is difficult to maintain these conditions with the conventional two-row or three-row suspension. That is, the selection range of the basic organization is limited. Since the present invention is based on single hanging, a very wide basic structure can be adopted, and if the crossing condition between the warp and the weft is not satisfied, the electronic device used in the present invention is used. Weaving is possible simply by electronically controlling one warp of the control jacquard. In the weaving of the present invention, several jacquards are arranged on a loom, and one warp is used for one warp. Controlling the maximum weaving effect.

The fabric structure of the present invention shown in FIG. 2 has basic fabric structures B-, B-, B- in the weaving direction of the fabric.
Or a woven fabric state in which different basic structures are combined and woven. FIG. 5 shows a typical basic fabric structure diagram of these.

The standard use conditions for weaving with the basic woven structure diagram of FIG. 5 are almost the same as those of FIG. 4, except that the silk spun yarn is used for the picture nuki weft. That's it.

The woven structure of the present invention shown in FIG. 3 shows a woven structure state in which the yarn is entangled when the driven color weft 31 is folded back halfway due to the pattern.

FIG. 6 shows an example of a woven fabric woven by variously combining the weaving methods of the present invention disclosed so far. Each of the different woven fabrics shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 contains various kinds of colored yarns. The weaving diagram shows various combinations of weft yarns and flower and leaf patterns in jacquard. Actually, the same applies to a plain fabric without a handle, and it is more effective if the fabric is woven in combination with the fabric structure shown in FIG. A woven fabric woven in these forms is called a free weave. Conventionally, weft yarns containing various kinds of colored yarns are woven in various ways, such as the double weave of FIG. 7 or the sewing type. Weave with a variety of changes in many weaving organizations and design designs.

On the other hand, the colorful weaving is free to design, but the weaving condition is changed for each section of the design from the middle to give a more varied weave, and is more versatile than the universal weaving. is there.

[0025]

Advantages of the invention (1) One piece of fabric, using Tango Chirimen yarn, using different wefts, using different tissues, combining with a pattern, etc., using various kinds of weaving elements, etc. The expressive power of the pattern has changed in a variety of ways, and it has become possible to make subtle movements on the pattern, which have not been obtained until now. (2) By adding a variety of yarns, such as sensitizing yarns and anti-dying yarns, to the pattern weft, the texture of the white fabric is only interesting. The difference made the expression of the fabric rich. (3) Due to the difference between the used yarn and the used structure, the plain fabric was moved and the idea of Tango chirimen woven fabric could be completely changed. (4) Use kimono and kimono for interior decoration fabrics, blouses,
It could be expanded in various ways such as shirts. (5) New modern rapier looms, gripper looms, and an electronically controlled high-speed jacquard that can not be used with conventional Tango chirimen fabrics. As a result, high-quality Tango chirimen woven fabric similar to woven high-quality fabric or sewn-weave was woven.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory view of a combination of yarns showing a woven structure state according to one embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing a combination of yarns showing a fabric structure state according to another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is an explanatory view of a combination of yarns showing a fabric structure state according to another embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a basic fabric structure diagram used in the description of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a basic fabric structure diagram used in the description of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a sample diagram of a fabric woven by the manufacturing method of the present invention.

FIG. 7 is an explanatory diagram showing a yarn configuration when weaving is performed by a conventional manufacturing method.

FIG. 8 is another explanatory diagram showing a yarn configuration when woven by a conventional manufacturing method.

FIG. 9 is an explanatory view showing a yarn structure of a kind of weaving of brocade, which has been conventionally performed.

FIG. 10 is an explanatory diagram showing a yarn configuration of a conventional sewn weave.

[Explanation of symbols]

 ... Warp of design A- 5-12... Warp of design A- 13-20... Warp of design A- 21... .... Colored weft 23 ... warp 24 ... warp 25 ... closing point 26 ... ground pit 27 ... overlapping part 28, 28 -1 color weft 28-2 color weft tuft 29, 29-1 color weft 29-2 color weft tuft 30 warp 31 ... warp 32 ... warp 33, 33-1, 33-2, 33-3 ... color weft 34 ... overlapping part 35 ... Overlapping part 1 ~ 16 ... Weft driving order

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A warp (23), (24), etc., which is one type of warp yarn, and a single woven fabric woven into a thin weave with a weft full width, a thin ground wick and a thick weft, etc. Operate with a jacquard hanging from Honhaki and a multi-shed shuttle of 4 to 12 pieces, and replace the two kinds of colored wefts (21) and (22) with the weft (2).
1) crosses the warp (24) and the weft (22) crosses the warp (23) and reverses them. From the overlapping point (27), the color weft (2)
A means for weaving so that the seams do not appear on the surface of the woven fabric even when the folded structure of (1) and (22) is applied, and weaving using wefts containing various kinds of colored yarns, Weaving method. 2. In the fabric structure, in the weaving direction of the fabric,
2. A multi-color yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that means for weaving the basic fabric structures (A-), (A-), (A-) or different basic structures are combined. Free weaving and weaving using weft yarns. 3. In a woven structure, in the weaving direction of the woven fabric,
3. A means for weaving a basic fabric structure (B-), (B-), (B-) or a combination of different basic structures.
Free weaving using wefts including various types of colored yarns described,
A colorful weaving method. 4. In the woven fabric, the driven color weft (33) is partially (33-1), (33)
-2), (33-3), etc., and the weft direction of the fabric,
In the warp direction of the fabric, the basic fabric structure (A-), (A-
), (A-), (B-), (B-), (B
-) Or a combination of different basic structures, and means for weaving and weaving the weft (33) and the like, including the section of the pattern, the design of the crest, and the like. A weaving method using a weft yarn containing various kinds of colored yarns according to claim 3, and a multi-color weaving method.