CN111973509A - Skin care composition containing plant extract for soothing allergy - Google Patents

Skin care composition containing plant extract for soothing allergy Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111973509A
CN111973509A CN202010836246.8A CN202010836246A CN111973509A CN 111973509 A CN111973509 A CN 111973509A CN 202010836246 A CN202010836246 A CN 202010836246A CN 111973509 A CN111973509 A CN 111973509A
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extract
soothing
plant extract
skin care
care composition
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张娟
谢津
谢娇梅
胡薇怡
彭春燕
杨杏
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Opal Cosmetics Huizhou Co Ltd
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Opal Cosmetics Huizhou Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals. A skin care composition containing a plant extract for soothing allergy comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-25% of plant extract for soothing and repairing allergy, 0.01-0.1% of ceramide, 5-30% of non-volatile grease, 5-20% of volatile oil ester, 5-10% of small molecular polyol, 1-25% of emulsifier, 0.1-5% of thickener and the balance of pure water; wherein the plant extract for soothing allergy comprises Mirabilis jalapa flower extract, centella asiatica extract, Mesona chinensis extract and Chrysanthemum flower extract. The skin care composition has the characteristics of high stability, low irritation and excellent skin affinity by screening and reasonably matching the raw materials in proportion, can effectively repair a sensitive skin barrier, reduce water loss, increase the water content of a horny layer, and further reduce the skin sensitivity problems of redness, itching, burning and the like.

Description

Skin care composition containing plant extract for soothing allergy
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to a skin care composition containing a plant extract for soothing allergy.
Background
Modern society continues to develop at a high speed, the rhythm of urban life is accelerated, the living environment of human beings is worsened, the skin of people is stimulated to a greater or lesser extent under the influence of external environmental factors such as ultraviolet radiation damage, abused cosmetics, stimulation and sensitization sources in cosmetic raw materials and psychological factors, and sensitive skin becomes extremely common. Sensitive skin is a physiologically overreacting state of the skin to environmental or internal factors rather than a disease. The skin barrier is damaged, the self system repair is incomplete, the water loss of the epidermis is increased, the environment in the cell survival is affected, the intercellular balance and stability are damaged, the skin resistance is reduced, the subjective symptoms such as pruritus, burning heat and tightness are easy to appear, and objective signs such as erythema, scale, telangiectasia and the like are accompanied or not accompanied. In recent years, more and more consumers suffering from the skin sensitivity problem appear, and skin care products with alleviative relieving efficacy also appear on the market, however, the products mainly aim at anti-allergy, a small amount of products with certain sensitive skin repairing effect are provided, but the effect is slight, the disadvantages of slow action of additives, long period of skin sensitivity change and the like exist, and the expected effect of the products cannot be achieved; can not completely meet the increasingly strict requirements of the market on the appearance, effect and safety test of cosmetic products. Meanwhile, with the improvement of the cognitive level of people and the demand of returning to nature, cosmetics are forming a new trend of component naturalization and functionalization. Therefore, the development of the allergy-relieving skin care composition which is safe, stable, easy to use, remarkable in effect and cost-effective has a very good development prospect.
Research shows that the sensitive skin is involved in a complex process of skin barrier-neurovascular-immune inflammation, and under the interaction of internal and external factors, the skin barrier is damaged, so that sensory nerve afferent signals are increased, the skin makes a greater stress response to external stimulation, and the skin immune inflammation response is initiated. Anti-sensitive active ingredients are generally added to existing products to solve the problem of sensitive muscles. However, it has been found that by adding a single plant extract, although the effect is certain, the effect of a single component is limited, so that the efficacy of the plant extract is generally enhanced in the form of a compound extract in the prior art. The compounding of different natural plant extracts can bring different effects, possibly have synergistic effect on the allergy relieving effect and antagonistic effect, and even possibly bring other burdens to the skin seriously.
In order to meet the requirements of people with sensitive muscles, the development of a allergy-relieving product suitable for the market vision is to compound and match a allergy-relieving plant extract compound suitable for the physiological reaction mechanism of skin barrier-neurovascular-immune inflammation. Furthermore, the skin characteristics of sensitive muscle groups, which are highly sensitive to foreign objects, should be considered, and effective allergy-relieving products with good use feeling are developed.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a skin care composition containing a allergy-relieving repair plant extract, which is characterized by high stability, low irritation and excellent skin affinity by screening and reasonably matching raw materials in proportion, can effectively repair a sensitive skin barrier, reduce water loss, increase the water content of a horny layer, and further reduce skin sensitivity problems such as redness, itching, burning and the like.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a skin care composition containing a plant extract for soothing allergy comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
(A) 0.01-25% of allergy-relieving repair plant extract, wherein the allergy-relieving repair plant extract comprises mirabilis jalapa flower extract, centella asiatica extract, Mesona chinensis extract and chrysanthemum extract;
(B) 0.01-0.1% of ceramide;
(C) non-volatile oils and fats: 5 to 30 percent;
(D) 5-20% of volatile oil ester;
(E) 5-10% of small molecular polyol;
(F) 1-25% of emulsifier;
(G) 0.1 to 5 percent of thickening agent;
and the balance of pure water.
Further, the paint also comprises at least one of the following components: 0.01 to 1 percent of preservative, 0.01 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 2 percent of PH regulator, 0.01 to 1 percent of essence and 0.05 to 3 percent of opacifier.
Furthermore, the plant extract for soothing and repairing allergy comprises 1-30% of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1-5% of centella asiatica extract, 0.05-3% of Mesona chinensis extract, 0.05-3% of chrysanthemum extract and the balance of aqueous solution of dihydric alcohol.
Furthermore, the preparation method of the plant extract for soothing allergy comprises the following steps:
a. mixing Mirabilis jalapa flower, centella asiatica, Mesona chinensis Benth and flos Chrysanthemi, drying in a 45 deg.C oven, crushing with a high speed pulverizer, and sieving with a 40 mesh sieve to obtain mixed plant powder;
b. dissolving the plant mixed powder in 0.5-10% glycol water solution, and soaking for 30-60 min;
c. filtering after ultrasonic extraction, collecting filtrate, flowing to a decoloring device through an external circulation device, arranging active carbon in the decoloring device, and circularly decoloring for 15 min;
d. filtering the decolorized extractive solution with microporous membrane, separating filtrate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to 5-8% of the original volume by using rotary evaporator to obtain the plant extract for treating allergy.
The plant extract has low extraction process difficulty, and the complex synergistic effect between the skin care compositions is obvious, the plant active ingredients are extracted by adopting the polyalcohol of natural sources, the plant active ingredients do not need to be completely separated from target ingredients, the plant extract can also be directly used as one ingredient in cosmetics to be applied to products, and the synergistic effect of the plant extract composition is added, so that the skin barrier repairing effect and the soothing sensitivity symptom are obvious.
Furthermore, the ceramide is N-acyl (ceramide) sphingosine, which is an important component of human skin lipid, has the functions of moisturizing, maintaining the stable structure of the stratum corneum and repairing the injury, is directly related to the moisture, elasticity and water content of the skin, has the property and quantity which influence the maintenance of the skin barrier and the occurrence of partial skin diseases, and plays an important role in constructing the barrier function of healthy skin.
Further, the nonvolatile oil and fat is at least one of hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, vegetable oil and silicone oil. Non-volatile oils and fats are defined as oils that do not exhibit volatility, which is the process by which a compound changes from a solid or liquid to a gas or vapor, at normal temperature (25 ℃) and pressure (1 atmosphere (9.8 x 104 Pa).
Further, the volatile oil and fat comprise volatile hydrocarbon oil and volatile organic silicon oil; the volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises isododecane, isohexadecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene; the volatile silicone oil is silicone oil with a cyclic methyl polysiloxane structure and a polymerization degree of 3-8.
Further, the molecular structural formula of the volatile silicone oil is as follows:
Figure BDA0002639774490000031
n is 3-8; at normal temperature, the trimer with n being 3 is solid, and the polymer with n being more than or equal to 4 is liquid.
Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is pentameric decamethylcyclopentasiloxane with n-5, which is colorless liquid and has viscosity (25 deg.C) of 3.5-8.0mm2/s。
The volatile oil is added into the composition, so that the oily touch feeling and the extended light and thin feeling of the front section of the composition can be provided, and the skin feeling is excellent because the volatile oil is not heavy and greasy after being coated; the volatile oil has low boiling point, can take away partial heat during volatilization, gives the skin a fresh feeling, soothes and calms, and brings better skin feeling and use experience to sensitive muscles.
Further, the small molecule polyol is dihydric alcohol and trihydric alcohol. The trihydric alcohol is glycerol.
Further, the dihydric alcohol includes 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-propanediol and 1, 3-butanediol; 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, polar substance have good solubility, can be used as dissolution auxiliary agent, softening agent, humectant, spreading agent, etc., and also has antiseptic effect; 1, 3-butanediol is used as humectant, has no stickiness, light feeling compared with glycerol, good solubility of polar cosmetic, and antibacterial effect, and can be used as solvent of plant extract.
Preferably, the mass ratio of glycerin to glycol in the humectant is 3: 2. the applicant unexpectedly finds that the skin is soft and elastic and has good use feeling by selecting the humectant in the proportion.
More preferably, the small-molecular polyol is compounded with a water-soluble polymer having moisture retention properties, such as hyaluronic acid, to greatly increase the moisture retention effect, and can also be used as a solubilizer, a low-temperature stabilizer, a thickener, and the like of active ingredients in the composition.
Further, the emulsifier comprises at least one of cetearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, C12-C20 alkyl glucoside, eicosyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, stearyl ether-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80.
Further, the emulsifier is sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80.
Preferably, the emulsifier is SIMULGEL EG emulsifier from French Saibox company, which is a polymer neutralized in advance, and the polymer is added with water to be thickened instantly to form a net structure around each oil drop, and the oil phase compatibility and stability are good, so that a refreshing and non-sticky gel, cream-like gel and emulsion system can be prepared.
Further, the thickening agent comprises at least one of hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, xanthan gum and carbomer polymer.
Preferably, the thickener is a carbomer polymer having the formula:
Figure BDA0002639774490000041
a skin care composition containing the plant extract for relieving allergy is prepared by conventional preparation and mixing technology, and the addition process of the plant extract for relieving allergy is according to the addition method of the conventional natural extract, which is not described in detail herein.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the composition can effectively relieve and repair sensitive skin according to the physiological reaction mechanism of skin barrier-neurovascular-immune inflammation. The selected ceramide is an important component of intercellular lipid, and is applied to barrier repair and water retention of stratum corneum. The selected allergy-relieving repair plant extract is compounded by four plant extracts with the efficacy of relieving and repairing sensitive skin, so that the synergistic effect is realized, and the allergy-relieving efficacy of a single plant extract is enhanced. Therefore, the asiatic pennywort herb extract, the mesona chinensis benth extract and the chrysanthemum extract are compounded, so that the generation of inflammatory mediators can be effectively reduced, the content and the function of hyaluronic acid in extracellular matrix are effectively ensured to be normal, the neurovascular wound is repaired, and the over-immune response of sensitive skin is alleviated. When the sensitive skin is subjected to external adverse stimulation, the expression quantity of sensitive symptoms such as pruritus, red swelling, burning or pain and the like generated by TRPV1(transient receptor potential variant member1, vanillic acid subtype transient receptor potential 1 channel protein) is commonly used for evaluating whether the active matter has the anti-allergy effect of relieving uncomfortable feeling. The mirabilis jalapa extract can achieve the effect of smoothing signals between the epidermis and nerve endings by regulating the levels of receptors (TRPV1) and messengers, and improve the discomfort of sensitive skin. Meanwhile, the mirabilis jalapa flower extract can stimulate and synthesize key epidermal components such as ceramide, tight junction protein, hyaluronic acid and the like, strengthen the skin barrier, increase the skin wettability, reduce the reddening condition of sensitive muscles, and prevent harmful substances in the environment from damaging the skin. In conclusion, the allergy-relieving repair plant extracts are reasonably compounded and synergically enhanced, and the problem of allergic inflammation is solved by regulating the abnormality of an immune system, strengthening the skin barrier and relieving the expression signal link of skin sensitivity symptoms.
2. The experiment proves that the plant extract for soothing and repairing allergy has no cytotoxicity, primary stimulation, no essence which can cause anaphylactic reaction, and high temperature stability and light stability.
3. The plant extract for soothing and repairing is used together with a skin care product matrix with good use feeling, and can enhance long-acting soothing and moisturizing effects of skin under the normal work of giving enough moisture to the skin to maintain the skin cuticle and the like, namely the skin barrier function, so that the soothing and repairing effects are better.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, which are only preferred embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.
Examples and comparative examples
The following table shows the formulation (unit:%) of 3 examples and 4 comparative examples of skin care compositions according to the invention containing extracts of soothing plants, the preparation method according to the invention being a conventional formulation and mixing technique.
Figure BDA0002639774490000061
Figure BDA0002639774490000071
In examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1,3 and 4 of the present invention, the soothing and repairing plant extract comprises 15% of mirabilis jalapa extract, 2.5% of centella asiatica extract, 1.5% of Mesona chinensis extract, 1.5% of chrysanthemum extract, and the balance of 1, 3-butanediol aqueous solution.
The preparation method of the plant extract for soothing allergy comprises the following steps:
a. mixing Mirabilis jalapa flower, centella asiatica, Mesona chinensis Benth and flos Chrysanthemi, drying in a 45 deg.C oven, crushing with a high speed pulverizer, and sieving with a 40 mesh sieve to obtain mixed plant powder;
b. dissolving the plant mixed powder in 5% glycol water solution, and soaking for 30-60 min;
c. filtering after ultrasonic extraction, collecting filtrate, flowing to a decoloring device through an external circulation device, arranging active carbon in the decoloring device, and circularly decoloring for 15 min;
d. filtering the decolorized extractive solution with microporous membrane, separating filtrate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to 5-8% of the original volume by using rotary evaporator to obtain the plant extract for treating allergy.
Comparative example 5
Comparative example 5 differs from example 2 in that: replacing the mirabilis jalapa flower extract in the allergy-relieving repair plant extract with an equal amount of aloe extract.
Comparative example 6
Comparative example 6 is a skin care product containing compound plant extract and having allergy relieving and repairing functions, which is commercially available.
The extraction of the plant containing the allergy-relieving repair is used in a conventional skin care milk mode, and mainly comprises the following steps: after facial cleansing for facial skin care, an effective amount of the product of the invention is applied evenly to the face and gently rubbed for one minute.
The skin care composition containing the plant extract for soothing allergy disclosed by the invention is subjected to service performance tests in 3 examples and 6 comparative examples:
1. grouping experiments: selecting a test subject who is aged 20-60 years and has sensitive skin on the face or is allergic (sensitive symptoms such as itching, redness, burning or pain) as a test subject, randomly dividing the test subject into 9 groups of 10 persons, and using the products prepared in examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-5 and the product sold in comparative example 6 as groups 1-9;
2. the test contents are as follows:
and (3) testing the efficacy of the instrument: applying corresponding test samples on the face of a volunteer for testing, wherein the volunteer cannot use external medicines 2-3 days before testing; testing the moisture content of the face stratum corneum of the subject by using a Cornmeter stratum corneum moisture content test probe; testing the face elasticity of the subject by using a Cutomer skin elasticity test probe; the face of the volunteer was collected with a VISIA facial image analyzer as a pre-sample image;
the testers self-rate: the soothing and repairing effects before and after 14 days of use of the test and control areas were self-assessed in the form of questionnaires. A 10cm visual simulation ruler is used for evaluating subjective symptoms of sensitive skin and the skin feeling of a product, each index is graded and graded by 0-10, 10 grades are the heaviest grade, and 0 grade is the lightest grade;
3. and (3) testing results:
and carrying out comprehensive scoring by adopting an investigation scoring method. Each group of people uses the medicine three times in the morning, at noon and at night, continuously uses the medicine for 14 days, and fills out a trial evaluation table. The average score for each use effect is shown in the following table:
degree of decline of sensitive symptoms Skin moisturizing effect Sticky feeling of sample smearing Comfort of use of the sample
Example 1 7.2 8.1 5.2 9
Example 2 8.5 8.5 5.0 8.9
Example 3 9.3 8.9 5.2 9.3
Comparative example 1 8.1 8.7 6.3 7.5
Comparative example 2 0.5 5.2 4.1 4.3
Comparative example 3 6.7 6.7 7.7 5.2
Comparative example 4 7.2 7.6 5.6 8.5
Comparative example 5 7.8 7.5 5.8 8.2
Comparative example 6 6.5 7.0 7.2 6.6
Compared with the sample in the market, the samples 1 to 3 in the invention have excellent hypofunction of sensitive symptoms, a user can feel better moisturizing feeling, and the smearing sticky feeling is lower when the sample is used;
examples 1-3 show that the higher the percentage content of the soothing and repairing plant extract, the gradually enhanced soothing effect; the composition containing the sodium hyaluronate has better moisturizing effect and relieving effect;
the use feeling of the product is also related to the proportion of the micromolecule polyalcohol, the matching of the grease and the skin feeling contribution of each component. The components are reasonably proportioned, so that the composition keeps coordination and balance on the effects and the use feeling, the effects of the plant extract for soothing and repairing are fully embodied in a composition system, and the composition has good use comfort.
The skin care composition containing the allergy-relieving repair plant extract has the characteristics of high stability, low irritation and excellent skin affinity by reasonably matching the screening and proportion of the raw materials, can effectively repair a sensitive skin barrier, reduce water loss, increase the water content of the horny layer, and further reduce the skin sensitivity problems of redness and swelling, pruritus, burning and the like.

Claims (10)

1. A skin care composition containing a plant extract for soothing allergy is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
(A) 0.01-25% of allergy-relieving repair plant extract, wherein the allergy-relieving repair plant extract comprises mirabilis jalapa flower extract, centella asiatica extract, Mesona chinensis extract and chrysanthemum extract;
(B) 0.01-0.1% of ceramide;
(C) 5-30% of non-volatile grease;
(D) 5-20% of volatile oil ester;
(E) 5-10% of small molecular polyol;
(F) 1-25% of emulsifier;
(G) 0.1 to 5 percent of thickening agent;
and the balance of pure water.
2. The skin care composition comprising the soothing repair plant extract according to claim 1, further comprising at least one of the following components: 0.01 to 1 percent of preservative, 0.01 to 0.2 percent of chelating agent, 0.01 to 2 percent of PH regulator, 0.01 to 1 percent of essence and 0.05 to 3 percent of opacifier.
3. The skin care composition containing the soothing and repairing plant extract according to claim 1, wherein the soothing and repairing plant extract comprises 1-30% of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1-5% of centella asiatica extract, 0.05-3% of Mesona chinensis extract, 0.05-3% of chrysanthemum extract and the balance of aqueous glycol solution.
4. The skin care composition comprising a soothing repair botanical extract as claimed in claim 1 wherein the ceramide is sphingosine-N-acyl (neuro).
5. The skin care composition containing the soothing repairing plant extract according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile oil is at least one of hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, vegetable oil and silicone oil.
6. The skin care composition comprising the soothing repair plant extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein the volatile oil comprises a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a volatile silicone oil; the volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises isododecane, isohexadecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene; the volatile silicone oil is silicone oil with a cyclic methyl polysiloxane structure and a polymerization degree of 3-8.
7. The skin care composition containing the plant extract for soothing the nerves, according to claim 6, wherein the molecular structural formula of the volatile silicone oil is:
Figure FDA0002639774480000011
8. the skin care composition comprising the soothing repair plant extract according to claim 1, wherein the small molecule polyol is a diol and a triol.
9. The skin care composition comprising a soothing repair botanical extract as claimed in claim 1 wherein the emulsifier comprises at least one of cetearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, C12-C20 alkyl glucoside, eicosyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, stearyl ether-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80.
10. The skin care composition comprising a soothing repair plant extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein the thickener comprises at least one of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, xanthan gum, carbomer polymer.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022246240A1 (en) * 2021-05-20 2022-11-24 Cybele Microbiome, Inc. Skin care methods and formulations
CN114931534A (en) * 2022-06-28 2022-08-23 上海新高姿化妆品有限公司 Skin sensitivity repairing composition and application thereof
CN116617147A (en) * 2023-06-02 2023-08-22 上海春之葆生物科技有限公司 Skin soothing and repairing composition and preparation method thereof

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Application publication date: 20201124