CN113274319A - After-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition, preparation method and application - Google Patents

After-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition, preparation method and application Download PDF

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CN113274319A
CN113274319A CN202110306894.7A CN202110306894A CN113274319A CN 113274319 A CN113274319 A CN 113274319A CN 202110306894 A CN202110306894 A CN 202110306894A CN 113274319 A CN113274319 A CN 113274319A
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skin
care composition
skin care
repairing
soothing
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郑泽鹏
张淼淼
秦文
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Maihe Guangzhou Industrial Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004Aftersun preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

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Abstract

The invention is suitable for the technical field of daily chemical articles, and provides a skin care composition for relieving, repairing and brightening after solarization, a preparation method and application thereof. The after-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition comprises the following active components in percentage by mass: 1-10 parts of nicotinamide: 0.1-5% of hemp leaf extract: 0.1-5 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: 0.01-5% of sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter: 0.01-5 parts of extract of flowers, leaves or vines of the Chinese barberry: 0.1-5 parts of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid. The skin care composition has the effects of repairing skin barriers, improving skin redness and whitening. Can relieve burning sensation and itching sensation of the skin after being dried, reduce the temperature of the skin after being dried, fade erythema and have obvious relieving and repairing effects; can also lighten black spots and realize whitening and brightening effects.

Description

After-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition, preparation method and application
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of daily chemical articles, and particularly relates to a skin care composition for relieving, repairing and brightening after solarization, a preparation method and application.
Background
Commercial sunscreen cosmetics include physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens. The main component of physical sun protection is ultraviolet screening agent, and the main component of chemical sun protection is ultraviolet absorbent. Generally, the physical sun block is thick and heavy, is not breathable, is easy to block pores, is easy to sweat in summer, is easy to make faces, and is easy to contaminate clothes; the chemical sun-screening agent has certain irritation, can cause allergy, has large damage to skin, and can damage the surface structure of the skin after long-term use to cause certain damage to the skin. Neither physical nor chemical sunscreens isolate all the uv rays, and the skin may also have a degree of tanning and sunburn, and as the chemical components contained in the sunscreen are deposited or absorbed on the skin surface, a series of skin problems may occur such as dry desquamation, redness and swelling, stain deposition, wrinkles, etc.
At present, various sunscreen products on the market are full of glans, but a moisturizing product which aims at the skin problem generated after the sun is cured and has the functions of calming, relieving, repairing and brightening the skin is lacked.
Disclosure of Invention
The embodiment of the invention aims to provide a skin care composition for relieving, repairing and brightening after sunburn, a preparation method and application thereof, and aims to solve the problems in the prior art pointed out in the background technology.
The embodiment of the invention is realized in such a way that the after-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition comprises the following active components in percentage by mass:
1-10 parts of nicotinamide: 0.1-5% of hemp leaf extract: 0.1-5 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: 0.01-5% of sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter: 0.01-5 parts of extract of flowers, leaves or vines of the Chinese barberry: 0.1-5 parts of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
As another preferable scheme of the embodiment of the invention, the active ingredients comprise the following active ingredients in percentage by mass:
1-5 of nicotinamide: 0.5-3% of cannabis leaf extract: 0.1-3 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: 0.1-3% of sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter: 0.1-3 parts of extract of flowers, leaves or vines of the Chinese barberry: 0.5-5 parts of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;
as another preferable scheme of the embodiment of the invention, the active ingredients comprise the following active ingredients in percentage by mass:
nicotinamide 2: cannabis leaf extract 1: 0.5 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter 0.5: extract of flowers or leaves or vines of bellflower of falling rehmannia 0.5: hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid 1.5;
as another preferred version of the present embodiment, the skin care composition further comprises the following moisturizers: butylene glycol, betaine, saccharide isomers, panthenol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, and octyldodecanol;
the mass ratio of nicotinamide to butanediol, betaine, saccharide isomer, panthenol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 3-propanediol and octyldodecanol is (1-10): (2-10): (0.5-5): (0.5-5): (0.1-2): (0.1-2): (0.1-2): (0.1-2).
As another preferred version of the present embodiment, the skin care composition further comprises the following skin feel modifiers: hydrogenated lecithin and menthol lactate;
the mass ratio of the nicotinamide to the hydrogenated lecithin to the menthol lactate is (1-10): (0.1-1): (0.1 to 1).
As another preferred version of the present embodiment, the skin care composition further comprises the following antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate and tocopherol;
the mass ratio of the nicotinamide to the ascorbyl palmitate to the tocopherol is (1-10): (0.1-5): (0.1 to 1).
As another preferred version of the present embodiment, the skin care composition further comprises the following thickeners: acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer;
the mass ratio of the nicotinamide to the acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer is (1-10): (0.1 to 1).
Another object of the embodiments of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the skin care composition for soothing, repairing and brightening after suntan, comprising the following steps:
weighing the raw materials for later use;
soaking the thickening agent until no white spot exists on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
heating, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
cooling, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
As another preferable scheme of the embodiment of the invention, the temperature is raised to 55-65 ℃, the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant are added, and the mixture is uniformly stirred; cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the skin feel regulator, and uniformly stirring.
Another object of the embodiments of the present invention is to provide an application of the skin care composition for soothing, repairing and brightening after sunburn in preparing a product for repairing and whitening erythema after sunburn.
The skin care composition has the effects of repairing skin barriers, improving skin redness and whitening. Can relieve burning sensation and itching sensation of the skin after being dried, reduce the temperature of the skin after being dried, fade erythema and have obvious relieving and repairing effects; can also lighten black spots and realize whitening and brightening effects.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a measurement site;
figure 2 is a differential analysis of the transepidermal water loss rate of skin. Performing intra-group and inter-group difference analysis on the baseline value and the return visit value of the skin transepidermal water loss rate by a menstruum difference analysis method, and when the results have significant difference, adopting p<0.001***And (6) labeling.
Figure 3 is an analysis of the variability of the skin a values. Performing intra-group and inter-group difference analysis on the baseline value and the return visit value of the skin a value by a square difference analysis method, and when the results have significant difference, adopting p<0.05*And p<0.001***And (6) labeling.
Figure 4 is an analysis of the variability of skin L values. Differential analysis of skin L valuesThe baseline value and the return visit value of (A) are used for carrying out the difference analysis between groups, and when the result has significant difference, the sum p is adopted<0.05*、p<0.01**And p<0.001***And (6) labeling.
Figure 5 is a differential analysis of skin ITA ° values. Performing intra-group and inter-group difference analysis on the baseline value and the return visit value of the skin ITA DEG value by a square difference analysis method, and adopting sum p when the results have significant difference<0.05*、p<0.01**And p<0.001***And (6) labeling.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail with reference to the following embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.
Specific implementations of the present invention are described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments.
Example 1
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: nicotinamide 2kg, hemp leaf extract 1kg, echium oil 0.5kg, sunflower oil unsaponifiable matter 0.5kg, extract of flos seu herba Elsholtziae Forrestii or leaf or vine 0.5kg, hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid 1.5 kg;
humectant: 4kg of butanediol, 2kg of betaine, 1kg of saccharide isomer, 0.8kg of panthenol, 0.5kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.5kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 0.2kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 0.5kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.3kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 2kg of ascorbyl palmitate and 0.3kg of tocopherol;
thickening agent: 0.5kg of acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer.
(2) Soaking the thickener for 30min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 60 ℃, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 43 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Example 2
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: 1kg of nicotinamide, 0.1kg of hemp leaf extract, 0.1kg of echium oil, 0.01kg of sunflower oil unsaponifiable matter, 0.01kg of extract of flowers or leaves or vines of Elsholtzia bodinieri, 0.1kg of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;
humectant: 2kg of butanediol, 0.5kg of betaine, 0.5kg of saccharide isomer, 0.1kg of panthenol, 0.1kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 0.1kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 0.1kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.1kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 0.1kg of ascorbyl palmitate and 0.1kg of tocopherol;
thickening agent: 0.1kg of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer;
(2) soaking the thickener for 20min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 55 deg.C, adding humectant, active ingredient, and antioxidant, and stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 40 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Example 3
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: 10kg of nicotinamide, 5kg of hemp leaf extract, 5kg of echium japonicum seed oil, 5kg of sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter, 5kg of extract of flower or leaf or vine of Elsholtzia bodinieri, 5kg of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;
humectant: 10kg of butanediol, 5kg of betaine, 5kg of saccharide isomer, 2kg of panthenol, 2kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 2kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 2kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 1kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 1kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 5kg of ascorbyl palmitate and 1kg of tocopherol;
thickening agent: 1kg of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer;
(2) soaking the thickener for 40min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 65 ℃, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 45 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Example 4
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: 1kg of nicotinamide, 0.5kg of hemp leaf extract, 0.1kg of echium oil, 0.1kg of sunflower oil unsaponifiable matter, 0.1kg of extract of flowers or leaves or vines of Elsholtzia bodinieri, 0.5kg of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;
humectant: 2kg of butanediol, 0.5kg of betaine, 0.5kg of saccharide isomer, 0.1kg of panthenol, 0.1kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 0.1kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 0.2kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.1kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 0.1kg of ascorbyl palmitate and 0.1kg of tocopherol;
thickening agent: 0.2kg of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer;
(2) soaking the thickener for 25min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 58 ℃, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 41 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Example 5
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: 5kg of nicotinamide, 3kg of hemp leaf extract, 3kg of echium oil, 3kg of sunflower oil unsaponifiable matter, 3kg of extract of flower or leaf or vine of Elsholtzia bodinieri, 5kg of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;
humectant: 5kg of butanediol, 3kg of betaine, 3kg of saccharide isomer, 1kg of panthenol, 1kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 1kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 0.8kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.5kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 3kg and 0.5kg of ascorbyl palmitate and tocopherol;
thickening agent: 0.8kg of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer;
(2) soaking the thickener for 37min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 62 ℃, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 43 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Example 6
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: nicotinamide 1.8kg, hemp leaf extract 1kg, echium oil 1.2kg, sunflower oil unsaponifiable matter 0.8kg, extract of flos seu herba Elsholtziae Forrestii or leaf or vine 2.2kg, hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid 3.5 kg;
humectant: 3.3kg of butanediol, 1.3kg of betaine, 0.9kg of saccharide isomer, 0.4kg of panthenol, 0.5kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.8kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 0.5kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 0.6kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.2kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 1.2kg and 0.3kg of ascorbyl palmitate and tocopherol;
thickening agent: 0.4kg of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer;
(2) soaking the thickener for 27min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 61 deg.C, adding humectant, active ingredient, and antioxidant, and stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 42 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Example 7
This embodiment provides a after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition, the method of preparing the after-sun soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition comprising the steps of:
(1) weighing the following raw materials:
active components: 4.5kg of nicotinamide, 0.6kg of hemp leaf extract, 0.15kg of echium oil, 0.8kg of sunflower oil unsaponifiable matter, 1.7kg of extract of flower or leaf or vine of Elsholtzia bellirica, 2.5kg of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;
humectant: 3.3kg of butanediol, 1.2kg of betaine, 1.3kg of saccharide isomer, 0.2kg of panthenol, 0.3kg of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.5kg of 1, 3-propanediol and 0.5kg of octyldodecanol;
skin feel modifier: 0.4kg of hydrogenated lecithin and 0.2kg of menthol lactate;
antioxidant: 0.15kg of ascorbyl palmitate and 0.15kg of tocopherol;
thickening agent: 0.3kg of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer;
(2) soaking the thickener for 33min until no white spot is on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
(3) heating to 63 ℃, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
(4) slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
(5) cooling to 44 deg.C, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
Examples of the experiments
Detection method
The safety and post-sunburn erythema repairing efficacy, whitening and lightening efficacy of the samples to be examined were evaluated comprehensively by instrumental measurements and clinical evaluation by a doctor on the test product (skin care composition of example 1) continuously used by the human body for 14 days.
Second, detecting the environment
Temperature: 21 ± 1 ℃, relative humidity: 50 +/-5%.
Measuring part
The measurement site was placed on the thigh, six erythema were successfully induced by a solar simulator, six measurement areas (as shown in fig. 1) were a/B/C/D/E/F, product application area and blank control area were randomly defined by a random table, test products were used on the designated measurement areas by the test subjects, and no test products were used in the blank control area and other areas.
Fourth, product using method
The using method comprises the following steps: after cleaning the measurement area, according to the product use requirement, a proper amount of test product is gently dripped onto the specified measurement area for 2 times a day, once in the morning and at night.
Fifth, detecting the index
5.1 determination of Minimum Erythema Dose (MED)
At D-2 visit, the skin condition of the selected thigh was observed by the dermatologist, followed by UV irradiation using a Solar simulator (Solar-Light-601), and the irradiation dose was increased stepwise by 25%. The results, observed 16-24 hours after the end of irradiation, caused a clearly visible erythema of the skin, ranging from the minimum dose of uv irradiation (J/m2) required for most areas of the irradiated spot, to the Minimum Erythema Dose (MED).
5.2 erythema Induction
At D-1 visit, the results of MED of each subject after UV irradiation at D-2 visit were observed and judged by a dermatologist, and skin conditions of the thigh on the other side were observed and screened, and then UV irradiation was performed using a Solar simulator (Solar-Light-601) at an irradiation dose of 1.5 MED.
At D0, 6 uniform-colored erythema appeared in the irradiated area 16-24 hours after irradiation with 1.5 MED, which is the target erythema.
According to the random requirement, one of the irradiated holes is a product use area, and the other irradiated hole is a blank control area.
D-2 is 2 days before erythema formation after irradiation with 1.5 times of MED, D-1 is 1 day before erythema formation after irradiation with 1.5 times of MED, and D0 is the time point of erythema formation after irradiation with 1.5 times of MED.
5.3 Black Spot Induction
At D-1 visit, the results of MED of each subject after UV irradiation at D-2 visit were observed and judged by a dermatologist, and skin conditions of the thigh on the other side were observed and screened, and then UV irradiation was performed using a Solar simulator (Solar-Light-601) at an irradiation dose of 1.5 MED.
At D0, 6 uniformly colored red spots were visible in the illuminated area 16-24 hours after 1.5 MED irradiation.
At visit D14, 15 days after irradiation with 1.5 fold MED, pigmentation, i.e. black spots as the test target, was observed in the 6 erythema areas obtained at visit D0.
According to the random requirement, one of the irradiated holes is a product use area, and the other irradiated hole is a blank control area.
Wherein D-2 is 2 days before erythema formation after irradiation with 1.5 times of MED, D-1 is 1 day before erythema formation after irradiation with 1.5 times of MED, and D0 is 6 time points for erythema formation after irradiation with 1.5 times of MED).
5.4 data analysis
Data analysis was performed using SPSS 21.0 statistical software. Within-and between-group variability analyses were performed using analysis of variance on the baseline (D0) and the revisit values (D0T15min, D7 and D14) for each parameter. Statistically significant differences are marked with p <0.05, p <0.01, p < 0.001.
Sixth, test results
6.1 subject information is shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 Subjects information details
Figure DEST_PATH_IMAGE001
6.2 comparison of the baseline values of the parameters before use of the product (D0) with the measured values at different visit times after use of the product (D0T15min, D7 and D14)
6.2.1 analysis of the Perkin Water loss
The Trans-epidermal water loss rate (TEWL) of skin is measured by a Vapometer and is an important parameter reflecting the water loss and barrier function of skin. Lower values are measured indicating less moisture loss from the skin and better barrier function.
The results of the test for the transepidermal water loss rate of the thigh skin after the test product was used are shown in table 2 and fig. 2.
TABLE 2 differential analysis of the transepidermal water loss rate of skin
Figure BDA0002987907400000131
Wherein:athe results of the skin transepidermal water loss test are shown as mean ± Standard Deviation (SD) with a sample size of 30.
bThe skin transepidermal water loss of D0 was the baseline value for each group.
cBasal values (D0) and revisit values (D0T) for the transepidermal water loss rate of the skin of each group using the ANOVA method15minD7 and D14) were analyzed for statistical intra-group variability.
dVariance analysis of the skin transepidermal water loss of the test product and control groups (D0T)15min/D7/D14-D0) were analyzed statistically for differences between groups.
Test product group: the transepidermal water loss of the skin decreased by 35.93%, 24.64% and 31.81% at the D0T15min, D7 and D14 visits, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D0). The skin transepidermal water loss rate at each revisitation time point showed significant differences compared to D0 by repeated measures of anova (p < 0.001).
Blank control group: the transepidermal water loss of the skin decreased by 0.55%, 1.90% and 3.23% at the D0T15min, D7 and D14 visits, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D0). The skin transepidermal water loss rate at each revisitation time point showed no significant difference compared to D0 by repeated measures of anova (p > 0.05).
Through analysis of different prescriptions, the change of the water loss rate of the skin of the test product group and the skin of the blank control group show a significant difference (p is less than 0.001) at each revisit time point.
6.2.2 analysis of skin color a values
The skin color parameters were measured by a Spectrocolorimeter CM-2600d to obtain skin color parameters such as L-, a-, and b-values. Wherein a is a value representing the degree of redness of the skin, and the smaller the value, the lighter the degree of redness of the skin.
The results of the test of the thigh skin a values after using the test product are shown in table 3 and figure 3.
Test product group: the skin a values decreased by 0.98%, 38.68% and 45.31% at the return visits D0T15min, D7 and D14, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D0). The skin a values at the return visits D7 and D14 both showed significant differences compared to D0 by repeated measures analysis of variance (p < 0.001).
Blank control group: the skin a values decreased by 1.21%, 32.49% and 35.29% at the D0T15min, D7 and D14 visits, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D0). The skin a values at the return visits D7 and D14 both showed significant differences compared to D0 by repeated measures analysis of variance (p < 0.001).
The analysis of variance of the skin a values showed significant differences (p <0.05) between the test product group and the blank control group at the time of return visit at D14.
Table 3 differential analysis of skin a values
Figure BDA0002987907400000141
Figure BDA0002987907400000151
Wherein:askin a values test results are shown as mean ± Standard Deviation (SD) with a sample size of 30.
bThe skin a values of D0 are baseline values for each group.
cBaseline (D0) and revisit (D0T) values of skin a values for each group were determined by ANOVA15minD7 and D14) were analyzed for statistical intra-group variability.
dVariance analysis was performed on the change in skin a values (D0T) of the test product group and the blank control group15min/D7/D14-D0) were analyzed statistically for differences between groups.
6.2.3 skin colorimetric analysis
The skin chromaticity parameters are measured by a Spectrocolorimeter CM-26d to obtain skin chromaticity parameters such as a skin L value, and the skin ITA DEG value is obtained by calculation. The numerical value L represents the skin black and white degree, and the larger the numerical value L is, the brighter and whiter the skin color is; the ITA value represents the integrated skin tone, and the larger the value, the whiter the skin tone.
6.2.3.1 skin L value analysis
The results of the test of the thigh skin L values after application of the test product are shown in table 4 and figure 4.
Test product group: the skin L values rose by 1.77% and 3.53% at the return visits D28 and D42, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D14). The skin L values at each revisit time point showed significant differences compared to D14 by repeated measures of anova (p < 0.001).
Blank control group: the skin L values rose by 0.97% and 1.90% at the return visits D28 and D42, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D14). The skin L values at each revisit time point showed significant differences compared to D14 by repeated measures of anova (p < 0.05).
The analysis of variance of the skin L values of the test product group and the blank control group showed significant differences (p <0.01) at the return visit of D42.
Table 4 differential analysis of skin L values
Figure BDA0002987907400000161
Wherein:askin L-value test results are shown as mean ± Standard Deviation (SD) with a sample size of 30.
bThe skin L values of D0 are baseline values for each group.
cStatistical analysis of intra-group differences was performed using analysis of variance on baseline (D14) and revisit (D28 and D42) values of skin L values for each group.
dStatistical analysis of differences between groups was performed using the analysis of variance method on the change in skin L x values (D28/D42-D14) between test product groups and blank control groups.
6.2.3.2 skin ITA ° value analysis
The results of the test of skin ITA ° values at thigh areas after using the test product are shown in table 5 and fig. 5.
Test product group: the skin ITA ° values increased by 9.10% and 19.34% at the revisits D28 and D42, respectively, compared to the baseline value (D14). The skin ITA ° values at each revisit time point showed significant differences compared to D14 (p <0.001) by repeated measures analysis of variance.
Blank control group: the skin ITA ° values increased by 5.03% and 9.30% at the revisits D28 and D42, respectively, compared to baseline values (D14). The skin ITA ° values at each revisit time point showed significant differences compared to D14 (p <0.05) by repeated measures analysis of variance.
The analysis of the difference of the prescriptions shows that the change of the skin ITA DEG value of the test product group and the blank control group shows a significant difference (p <0.01) at the return visit of D42.
TABLE 5 differential analysis of skin ITA ° values
Figure BDA0002987907400000171
Wherein:askin ITA ° values test results are shown as mean ± Standard Deviation (SD) with a sample size of 30.
bThe skin ITA ° values of D0 are baseline values for each group.
cStatistical analysis of intra-group differences was performed using analysis of variance on the baseline (D14) and revisit (D28 and D42) values of skin ITA ° values for each group.
dStatistical analysis of the differences between groups was carried out on the values of changes in the skin ITA DEG values (D28/D42-D14) between the test product group and the blank control group by the ANOVA method.
6.3 subject evaluation questionnaire analysis
A total of 30 subjects completed the efficacy assessment questionnaire for the test products at the return visit D28 and D42. Scores are given by subjects in combination with self-perception and reference to scoring criteria. The test subjects scored the efficacy of the test products on a scale of 1 to 7 (1 score means very unsatisfactory efficacy of the test products, 7 score means very satisfactory efficacy of the test products, 5 score means somewhat satisfactory efficacy of the test products, and a larger score means better improvement of the skin problems or more satisfactory efficacy of the test products). According to the scoring standard, after 30 subjects use the test product, the efficacy of the test product, including the aspects of product moistening degree, skin temperature reduction, skin burning feeling alleviation, skin redness and itching alleviation, erythema and black spots lightening, soothing, whitening and the like, is evaluated.
The subject self-questionnaire statistics after using the test product are as follows:
for the question of "feeling of cooling of the skin in the applied area after tanning", subjects answered 53.33% and 76.67% in positive response at visits D28 and D42, respectively.
For the question "feeling relieved of burning sensation in the applied area after tanning", subjects answered 53.33% and 80.00% positively at visits D28 and D42, respectively.
For the question of "alleviating the redness and itching of the affected area after tanning", subjects answered at visits D28 and D42 with positive answers of 60.00% and 76.67%, respectively.
For the question of "feeling lighter erythema in the affected area after tanning", subjects answered at D28 and D42 at a positive response rate of 43.33% and 80.00%, respectively.
For the question of "feeling that the painted area becomes lighter in black after tanning", subjects answered 53.33% and 80.00% in positive response at visits D28 and D42, respectively.
For the question of "feeling the skin condition better", the subjects had an affirmative answer rate of 53.33% and 76.67% at the visits D28 and D42, respectively.
For the question "overall, satisfactory post-basking soothing efficacy of the product used", subjects answered 66.67% and 90.00% at the visits D28 and D42, respectively.
For the question "overall, satisfactory skin whitening efficacy of the product used", subjects answered 53.33% and 80.00% in positive terms at the visits D28 and D42, respectively.
For the question "skin moisturized after product use", the subject answered 73.33% positively at the visit of D42.
The results show that after the test product is used, the skin transepidermal water loss rate of the test product group subject is in a significant descending trend at the time of D0T15min, D7 and D14 return visits, and has significant difference compared with a blank control group, so that the test product has the effect of repairing the skin barrier and has instantaneity; after the test product is used, the skin a value of the test product group subject shows a significant reduction trend at the return visits of D7 and D14, and has a significant difference compared with a blank control group at the return visit of D14, which indicates that the test product has the efficacy of improving the skin redness degree; after the test product is used, the skin L value and the skin ITA DEG value of the thigh part of a test subject in the test product group show a significant rising trend at each return visit time point, and have significant difference compared with a blank control group when the test subject is returned at D42, so that the test product is prompted to have whitening effect; from the results of questionnaires evaluated by the subjects, the subjects consider that the test products have the after-sun soothing effects in the aspects of relieving the burning feeling and the itching feeling of the after-sun skin, reducing the after-sun skin temperature, lightening erythema and the like, and the whitening effects in the aspects of lightening dark spots and the like.
The principle of the invention is as follows:
cannabis is a plant of the genus cannabis of the family moraceae, and has three distinct species, respectively: indian hemp, common hemp, tare hemp. There are 483 known compounds of cannabis, which contain at least 65 different cannabinoids. The main active ingredients of the cannabis extract are low Tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and Cannabidiol (CBD), wherein THC is a psychoactive component of cannabis and CBD is a non-psychoactive medical component. Products derived from the cannabis plant can be divided according to their field of application: cosmetic/industrial applications, pharmaceutical applications and recreational products. Cannabidiol (CBD) is a cannabinoid that was first discovered in cannabis extracts in 1940. CBD is produced in the flowers, leaves and stems of the cannabis plant. According to different parts of the extract, the extract can be divided into the hemp seed oil, the hemp leaf extract and the hemp flower extract, wherein the CBD content of the conventional hemp seed oil is lower than 25ppm, and the CBD content of the hemp leaf extract is much higher (100ppm), so that the practical application value of the hemp leaf is higher. The Israel scientist found 1200 genes affected by CBD through studies: of these, 600 gene transcripts were up-regulated by CBD and 524 were down-regulated. CBD also showed regulation of the expression of 491 genes, 165 of which are associated with skin (4, 18). Thus, evidence that CBD is beneficial to the skin is presumably that it has been shown to activate cannabinoids and PPAR γ receptors in the skin. Known skin benefits: 1) the moisturizing capability is improved; 2) lifting the skin barrier 3) soothing/resisting inflammation of the skin 4) relieving itching 5) controlling oil and clearing pox 6) treating psoriasis/atopic inflammation.
Nicotinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3, is a well-known skin anti-aging ingredient in the field of beauty skin science, and is more and more important in recent years, and the most important effect of the niacinamide on skin anti-aging is to relieve and prevent dark skin color, yellowing and vegetable color generated in the early aging process of skin. Of course, niacinamide contributes far more than this to the skin and can also repair the damaged stratum corneum lipid barrier, increasing skin resistance. The skin care product containing the niacinamide has strong water locking and moisturizing effects. At concentrations of 0.25 and 1.25mg/ml niacinamide effect, the rate of movement of melanosomes in melanocytes increases significantly (P <0.05), while the concentration of melanosomes in cells decreases with increasing concentration of niacinamide. Nicotinamide participates in the transfer process of melanin and can accelerate the movement rate of melanosomes in melanocytes, which shows that the nicotinamide has a regulation and control effect on calcium pumps, the expression of cell dynamic protein Dynein and the movement of melanosomes, and the action concentration is an important regulation factor. Ceramides are an important component of the skin barrier. The ceramide content in the stratum corneum of atopic dermatitis, the skin of the elderly and winter dry skin is significantly reduced. Niacinamide enhances skin barrier function by increasing ceramide content in the stratum corneum, reducing water loss.
The echium japonicum seed oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acid, can strengthen skin barriers and inhibit 5-lipoxygenase, the sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter is high in unsaponifiable oil, the squalene and the vitamin E are rich, the skin barriers can be solidified, the oil component of the extract of the flower, leaf and vine of the hypsizigus marmoreus belongs to tropical vine components, the echium is rich in phytosterol, the skin can be relieved, the phospholipase A2 and the epoxidase-2 are inhibited, inflammation and allergic reactions can be reduced, and the echium can be used for relieving itching and treating allergic dermatitis in homeopathy and is a plant substitute of hydrocortisone.
The hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid is a phenolic ingredient only existing in oat and is widely applied. It is an efficient anti-irritant cosmetic ingredient, has anti-histamine and anti-oxidant activities, and can effectively relieve itching and red swelling of skin.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention, for example, the skin care composition of the present invention may contain other adjuvant ingredients, such as pH regulator, preservative, essence, etc., in addition to the above components, within the range that the effect of the present invention is not impaired, and those skilled in the art can select the conventional content according to the conventional standard. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The after-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition is characterized by comprising the following active components in percentage by mass:
1-10 parts of nicotinamide: 0.1-5% of hemp leaf extract: 0.1-5 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: 0.01-5% of sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter: 0.01-5 parts of extract of flowers, leaves or vines of the Chinese barberry: 0.1-5 parts of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
2. The after-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition according to claim 1, comprising the following active components in mass ratio:
1-5 of nicotinamide: 0.5-3% of cannabis leaf extract: 0.1-3 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: 0.1-3% of sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter: 0.1-3 parts of extract of flowers, leaves or vines of the Chinese barberry: 0.5-5 parts of hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.
3. The after-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition according to claim 1, comprising the following active components in mass ratio:
nicotinamide 2: cannabis leaf extract 1: 0.5 parts of cynara scolymus seed oil: sunflower seed oil unsaponifiable matter 0.5: extract of flowers or leaves or vines of bellflower of falling rehmannia 0.5: hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid 1.5.
4. The sunless soothing and rejuvenating skin care composition according to claim 1 further comprising the following moisturizers: butylene glycol, betaine, saccharide isomers, panthenol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, and octyldodecanol;
the mass ratio of nicotinamide to butanediol, betaine, saccharide isomer, panthenol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 3-propanediol and octyldodecanol is (1-10): (2-10): (0.5-5): (0.5-5): (0.1-2): (0.1-2): (0.1-2): (0.1-2).
5. The sunless, soothing, repairing and lightening skin care composition of claim 1, further comprising the following skin feel modifiers: hydrogenated lecithin and menthol lactate;
the mass ratio of the nicotinamide to the hydrogenated lecithin to the menthol lactate is (1-10): (0.1-1): (0.1 to 1).
6. The sunless soothing and rejuvenating skin care composition according to claim 1 further comprising the following antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate and tocopherol;
the mass ratio of the nicotinamide to the ascorbyl palmitate to the tocopherol is (1-10): (0.1-5): (0.1 to 1).
7. The sunless soothing, rejuvenating and brightening skin care composition according to claim 1 further comprising the following thickeners: acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer;
the mass ratio of the nicotinamide to the acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer is (1-10): (0.1 to 1).
8. A method of preparing a post-sun soothing and rejuvenating skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the steps of:
weighing the raw materials for later use;
soaking the thickening agent until no white spot exists on the surface, and homogenizing until no fine particles exist;
heating, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
slowly adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to be 5-6.5;
cooling, adding skin feeling regulator, and stirring.
9. A method of preparing a after-sun soothing and rejuvenating skin care composition according to claim 8,
heating to 55-65 ℃, adding the humectant, the active component and the antioxidant, and uniformly stirring;
cooling to 40-45 ℃, adding the skin feel regulator, and uniformly stirring.
10. Use of the after-sun soothing and lightening skin care composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7 in the preparation of a product for after-sun erythema repair and whitening.
CN202110306894.7A 2021-03-23 2021-03-23 After-sun soothing, repairing and brightening skin care composition, preparation method and application Pending CN113274319A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112870119A (en) * 2021-01-25 2021-06-01 广州市采奴化妆品有限公司 Scalp anti-allergy nursing essence and preparation method thereof

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112870119A (en) * 2021-01-25 2021-06-01 广州市采奴化妆品有限公司 Scalp anti-allergy nursing essence and preparation method thereof

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