CN111631985A - Anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, eye cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, eye cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111631985A CN111631985A CN202010559658.1A CN202010559658A CN111631985A CN 111631985 A CN111631985 A CN 111631985A CN 202010559658 A CN202010559658 A CN 202010559658A CN 111631985 A CN111631985 A CN 111631985A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Abstract
The invention provides an anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, which comprises the following components: 0.001 to 1 part by weight of folic acid; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1 copper; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of hexapeptide-9; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4; 0.2-8 parts by weight of shea butter. The invention combines the folic acid with a plurality of polypeptides, has the synergistic effect, can promote the absorption of the folic acid, improve the utilization rate of the folic acid, and simultaneously enhance the anti-wrinkle effect through a plurality of channels. The addition of the shea butter can effectively prevent the loss of the functional components in the composition, further greatly improve the utilization rate of folic acid, finally enable the composition to stimulate the new ECM substances to be more than the enzymolysis amount, have obvious effects of resisting wrinkles and increasing elasticity, and can maintain the skin care effect for a long time without rebounding after the composition is not used for a long time.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of daily chemical products, and particularly relates to an anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, eye cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Folic acid (vitamin B9) is effective in preventing fetal neural tube malformation, is also an efficient skin care component, and has been widely used in skin care.
For example, patent application with the application number of CN201910518665.4 discloses a multi-effect repair essence which comprises folic acid, small-molecule tripeptide and other components and has a fine-line removal effect, a skin tightening effect and an anti-aging effect on facial skin. However, the skin around the eyes is very specific and is one of the thinnest areas of the skin, and the skin around the eyes is permanently moved to express various expressions, so wrinkles are more likely to grow around the eyes than on the facial skin. Wrinkles in the eyes are often described as crow's feet or expression lines and coexist with other types of wrinkles, including fine lines around the eyes, wrinkles under the eyes, lacrimal furrows, and the like. Therefore, the care mechanism of the skin around the eyes and the skin on the face are different, and more detailed and multi-channel care is required. For example, patent application No. CN201711425861.4 discloses an eye pouch repair essence composition containing polypeptide, which is characterized by comprising folic acid, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, shea butter and other raw materials, and the composition has the beneficial effects of delaying aging of eye skin, improving edema and dark circles, preventing blood from staying around eyes, and keeping moisture intensively all day long. The phenomenon of water shortage of the skin around the eyes is improved, the skin around the eyes is constantly moist and elastic, and therefore the generation of dry lines and fine wrinkles is avoided. However, the polypeptide of the product only adopts palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and the effect of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is mainly used for repairing the dermis layer, and can stimulate fibroblasts to synthesize extracellular matrix (ECM), but has no effect on repairing the DEJ area at the dermis-epidermis junction. Therefore, the eye wrinkle repairing liquid can not repair eye wrinkles from multiple channels, has poor effect and durability, and is easy to rebound after being used for a while.
In addition, folic acid is unstable and is easily decomposed by light. If the folic acid is absorbed slowly, part of the folic acid is degraded due to the influence of illumination, and then the skin care effect is lost, and the skin care effect is not durable. In this case, in order to exert the skin-care effect of folic acid more effectively, on the one hand, the amount of folic acid used can be increased to prolong the duration of folic acid action, but too much folic acid is added, which is liable to cause a long-lasting discoloration of the cosmetic, is disadvantageous in storage and sale of the cosmetic, and is costly. On the other hand, the folic acid absorption is accelerated, the folic acid can enter the skin to play a role before being decomposed by light, the utilization rate of the folic acid is improved, and the action duration is longer. Obviously, the second method is a better choice, but the current technology has difficulty in achieving such an effect.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide an anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, an eye cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid provided by the present invention has characteristics of rapid folic acid absorption speed, high utilization rate and long acting duration.
The invention provides an anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, which comprises the following components:
0.001 to 1 part by weight of folic acid;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1 copper;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of hexapeptide-9;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4;
0.2-8 parts by weight of shea butter.
The invention also provides eye cream which comprises the anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid.
Preferably, the eye cream includes:
3.21-12.5 parts by weight of humectant
0.1 to 0.35 part by weight of a thickener
0.01 to 0.05 part by weight of a chelating agent
0.05-0.3 part by weight of pH regulator
2.2-9.2 parts by weight of surfactant
0.206-14 parts by weight of folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition
3.85-32.5 parts by weight of skin conditioner
52.144-70.84 parts by weight of water.
Preferably, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerol, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol, and 1, 2-pentanediol.
Preferably, the thickener is selected from one or more of carbomer and cellulose gum; the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.
Preferably, the pH adjusting agent is selected from tromethamine.
Preferably, the surfactant is selected from one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polysorbate-60, stearic acid and sorbitan stearate.
Preferably, the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more of tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethylhexanoate, dimethicone, caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerin, lotus extract, phyllostachys praecox extract, ceramide 3, and cyclodextrin.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the eye cream, which comprises the following steps:
A) mixing and heating water, humectant, thickener and chelating agent to obtain phase A;
B) mixing surfactant, shea butter, tocopherol acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and polydimethylsiloxane, and heating to obtain phase B;
C) mixing and emulsifying the phase A and the phase B to obtain an emulsion;
D) and sequentially adding a pH regulator, folic acid, tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerin, lotus flower extract, phyllostachys pubescens extract, ceramide 3 and cyclodextrin in a skin conditioner into the emulsion, uniformly mixing, and defoaming to obtain the eye cream.
Preferably, in the step A), the mixing and heating temperature is 75-90 ℃;
in the step B), the mixing and heating temperature is 75-90 ℃;
in the step C), the emulsifying temperature is 75-90 ℃, and after the emulsifying is finished, the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃ to obtain an emulsion;
in step D), the defoaming is carried out at a temperature of less than 35 ℃.
Compared with the prior art, the invention provides an anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, which comprises the following components: 0.001 to 1 part by weight of folic acid; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1 copper; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of hexapeptide-9; 0.001 to 1 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4; 0.2-8 parts by weight of shea butter. The invention combines the folic acid with a plurality of polypeptides, has the synergistic effect, can promote the absorption of the folic acid, improve the utilization rate of the folic acid, and simultaneously enhance the anti-wrinkle effect through a plurality of channels. The addition of the shea butter can effectively prevent the loss of the functional components in the composition, further greatly improve the utilization rate of folic acid, finally enable the composition to stimulate the new ECM substances to be more than the enzymolysis amount, have obvious effects of resisting wrinkles and increasing elasticity, and can maintain the skin care effect for a long time without rebounding after the composition is not used for a long time.
Detailed Description
The invention provides an anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, which comprises the following components:
0.001 to 1 part by weight of folic acid;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1 copper;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of hexapeptide-9;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4;
0.2-8 parts by weight of shea butter.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition provided by the invention comprises folic acid, wherein the folic acid is a vitamin B complex and exists in green vegetables and fruits, citrus, yeast, liver and the like. Plays an important role in the one-carbon mechanism of DNA and RNA synthesis, and is involved in many important biochemical processes. Mainly comprises that firstly, the synthesis of purine and thymine is participated in, and DNA and RNA are further synthesized; ② the amino acid is involved in the mutual conversion, and is used as a carrier of a one-carbon unit, such as the interchange of serine and glycine, and the interchange of histidine decomposed into glutamic acid and homocysteine and methionine; ③ the synthesis of hemoglobin and important methyl compounds, such as epinephrine, choline and creatine.
The skin, an important component of the whole body of the human body, participates in the metabolism of substances including sugar, fat, water, electrolytes, proteins, etc. The normal metabolism of human skin needs to be maintained by relying on continued epidermal cell proliferation and differentiation. Studies have shown that many skin diseases and even skin cancers are closely related to folate deficiency. It can prevent and repair DNA damage, and is the source of eliminating wrinkles and resisting skin aging.
In the present invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.001 to 1 part by weight of folic acid, and in some embodiments of the present invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.01 to 0.1 part by weight of folic acid.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition also comprises micromolecular polypeptides, has higher bioactivity and biodiversity, is mainly embodied in the anabolism and catabolism of proteins in organisms, can actively regulate the synthesis and secretion of proteins inside and outside cells, ensures the expression and replication of life genetic genes, enhances the metabolism of organism tissues and cells, and further regulates and controls the production and development, growth and maturation, aging and diseases of organisms. According to the invention, tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 are selected and compounded with folic acid according to a specific proportion, so that an excellent anti-wrinkle effect can be achieved.
Meanwhile, the small molecule polypeptide composition can supply the folic acid to repair DNA energy of cells in the dermis layer, the DEJ area at the junction of the dermis and the epidermis and damaged epidermis. Acting on the dermis layer to promote the synthesis of collagen, elastin, fibronectin and the like in the extracellular matrix (ECM). Acting on the DEJ region, reconnecting the epidermis and the dermis, and increasing the effective intercommunication between the epidermis and the dermis. Acting on epidermis to promote differentiation and maturation of epidermal cells.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition provided by the invention comprises 0.001-1 part by weight of tripeptide-1, and in some specific embodiments of the invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.015-0.15 part by weight of tripeptide-1.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.001-1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8, and in some specific embodiments of the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition comprises 0.01-0.1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition provided by the invention comprises 0.001-1 part by weight of tripeptide-1 copper; in some embodiments of the present invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition includes 0.015 to 0.15 parts by weight of tripeptide-1 copper.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition provided by the invention comprises 0.001-1 part by weight of hexapeptide-9; in some embodiments of the present invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition includes 0.05 to 0.5 parts by weight of hexapeptide-9.
The folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition provided by the invention comprises 0.001-1 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4; in some embodiments of the present invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition includes 0.02 to 0.2 parts by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.
The invention utilizes the synergistic effect of folic acid and small molecular peptide composition to improve the bioavailability of folic acid and enhance the anti-wrinkle effect to a certain extent.
However, with the age, the metabolism of the skin cells of the human body is gradually slowed, the folic acid and small molecule polypeptide composition has limited stimulation effect on the skin cells of the human body, the effect of the product is slow, and when the product containing the folic acid and small molecule polypeptide composition is stopped, the anti-wrinkle effect is not long in duration, and the rebound phenomenon is easy to occur. Therefore, the African skincare holy product shea butter which has the same anti-wrinkle effect is added, and the unexpected discovery shows that the addition of the shea butter can reduce the rebound of the skincare effect to a certain extent, and meanwhile, the anti-wrinkle effect is better. A large number of creative tests show that the weight of the shea butter and the total weight of the folic acid and the various small molecular peptides are in a mass ratio of 0.2-8: the composition consisting of 0.006-6 can improve the bioavailability of folic acid to a greater extent, obtain excellent anti-rebound effect, and has shorter anti-wrinkle effect time and better anti-wrinkle effect.
The above effects are presumably caused by: some folic acid is decomposed by light and does not play a role. Meanwhile, the skin free radical damage and inflammatory reaction caused by illumination, pollution and the like also block the channel for repairing wrinkles. Folic acid and small peptides stimulate ECM such as nascent collagen and are difficult to counteract. The shea butter is used as an emollient, so that on one hand, the shea butter plays a role in sealing and moisturizing; on one hand, the contained unsaponifiable matter terpene alcohol, lupeol and cinnamate of resinol and the like have obvious anti-inflammatory effect; on one hand, the UV-absorbing agent can absorb part of ultraviolet rays and reduce the decomposition phenomenon of folic acid caused by light.
In the present invention, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition includes 0.2 to 8 parts by weight of shea butter, and in some embodiments, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition includes 4 parts by weight of shea butter.
The invention also provides eye cream which comprises the anti-wrinkle composition containing the folic acid.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the eye cream comprises:
3.21-12.5 parts by weight of humectant
0.1 to 0.35 part by weight of a thickener
0.01 to 0.05 part by weight of a chelating agent
0.05-0.3 part by weight of pH regulator
2.2-9.2 parts by weight of surfactant
0.206-14 parts by weight of folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition
3.85-32.5 parts by weight of skin conditioner
52.144-70.84 parts by weight of water.
The eye cream provided by the invention comprises a humectant which is selected from one or more of glycerin, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol, and in some embodiments of the invention, the humectant is selected from glycerin, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol. The eye cream comprises 3.21-12.5 parts by weight of a humectant; in some embodiments of the present invention, the eye cream includes 6.2 parts by weight of a moisturizing agent.
The eye cream provided by the invention also comprises a thickening agent, wherein the thickening agent is selected from one or more of carbomer and cellulose gum. In some embodiments of the invention, the thickening agent is selected from carbomers and cellulose gums. The eye cream comprises 0.1-0.35 parts by weight of thickening agent, and in some specific embodiments of the invention, the eye cream comprises 0.24 parts by weight of thickening agent.
The eye cream provided by the invention also comprises a chelating agent, wherein the chelating agent is selected from disodium EDTA. The eye cream comprises 0.01-0.05 parts by weight of a chelating agent, and in some embodiments of the invention, the eye cream comprises 0.02 parts by weight of a chelating agent.
The eye cream further comprises a pH regulator, wherein the pH regulator is selected from tromethamine. The eye cream comprises 0.05-0.3 weight part of pH regulator, and in some specific embodiments of the invention, the eye cream comprises 0.18 weight part of pH regulator.
The eye cream provided by the invention also comprises a surfactant, wherein the surfactant is selected from one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polysorbate-60, stearic acid and sorbitan stearate. In some embodiments of the invention, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polysorbate-60, stearic acid, and sorbitan stearate. The eye cream comprises 2.2-9.2 parts by weight of a surfactant, and in some embodiments of the invention, the eye cream comprises 5.2 parts by weight of a surfactant.
The eye cream further comprises 0.206-14 parts by weight of the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition, and in some specific embodiments of the eye cream, the eye cream comprises 4.11-10 parts by weight of the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition.
The eye cream provided by the invention also comprises a skin conditioning agent, wherein the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more of tocopherol acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethylhexanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerol, lotus flower extract, phyllostachys pubescens extract, ceramide 3 and cyclodextrin. In some embodiments of the invention, the skin conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethylhexanoate, dimethicone, caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerin, lotus extract, phyllostachys praecox extract, ceramide 3, and cyclodextrin. The eye cream comprises 3.85-32.5 parts by weight of a skin conditioner, and in some embodiments of the invention, the eye cream comprises 13.2-25 parts by weight of the skin conditioner.
The eye cream provided by the invention further comprises 52.144-70.84 parts by weight of water, and in some specific embodiments of the invention, the eye cream comprises 60-69.33 parts by weight of water.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the eye cream, which comprises the following steps:
A) mixing and heating water, humectant, thickener and chelating agent to obtain phase A;
B) mixing surfactant, shea butter, tocopherol acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and polydimethylsiloxane, and heating to obtain phase B;
C) mixing and emulsifying the phase A and the phase B to obtain an emulsion;
D) and sequentially adding a pH regulator, folic acid, tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerin, lotus flower extract, phyllostachys pubescens extract, ceramide 3 and cyclodextrin in a skin conditioner into the emulsion, uniformly mixing, and defoaming to obtain the eye cream.
Specifically, in the step A), the mixing and heating temperature is 75-90 ℃, and preferably 80-85 ℃;
in the step B), the mixing and heating temperature is 75-90 ℃, and preferably 80-85 ℃;
in the step C), the emulsifying temperature is 75-90 ℃, preferably 80-85 ℃, and after the emulsifying is finished, the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, preferably 45 ℃ to obtain an emulsion;
in step D), the defoaming is carried out at a temperature of less than 35 ℃.
The eye cream provided by the invention has excellent efficacy of removing periocular fishtail lines, under-ocular wrinkles and lacrimal duct wrinkles by adding the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition and combining with the use of a proper type and dosage of humectant, thickener, chelating agent, pH regulator, surfactant, skin conditioner and water.
For further understanding of the present invention, the folic acid containing anti-wrinkle composition, eye cream and preparation method thereof provided by the present invention are described below with reference to the following examples, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by the following examples.
Examples 1 to 4
The formulation of the anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid is shown in Table 1
TABLE 1 formulation of anti-wrinkle folic acid-containing compositions
Comparative example 1
Compared with example 2, tripeptide-1 was replaced by dipeptide-2, acetyl hexapeptide-8 was replaced by acetyl tetrapeptide-3, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 was replaced by palmitoyl tripeptide-5, with the amounts and other components unchanged.
Comparative example 2
Compared with example 2, the amount of shea butter was 0.005 parts by weight, and the remainder was unchanged.
Comparative example 3
As compared with example 2, 0 part by weight of tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9 was used, and 0.11 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 was used, with the remainder being unchanged.
Comparative example 4
Compared with example 2, the amount of shea butter was 0 part by weight, and the remainder was unchanged.
The compositions of the above examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance tests:
1. the compositions of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-4 have the following anti-wrinkle efficacy and durability test:
test materials:
preparing a face cream:
the formula comprises the following raw materials (by 100 parts by weight): 4 parts of squalane, 2 parts of cetostearyl alcohol, 2.5 parts of A165 emulsifier, GTCC4 parts, 2 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 8 parts of glycerol, 0.05 part of disodium EDTA, 1.8 parts of 305 thickener, 0.2 part of methylparaben, 0.1 part of propylparaben, the compositions of examples 1-4 or comparative examples 1-4 (the amount is the sum of the amounts of the raw materials in Table 1), and the balance of water.
Adding water, methyl hydroxybenzoate, glycerol, EDTA disodium and 305 thickener into an emulsification tank, heating to 80 deg.C to obtain water phase; adding shea butter, squalane, cetostearyl alcohol, A165 emulsifier, GTCC, polydimethylsiloxane and propyl hydroxybenzoate in a formula ratio into an oil tank, and heating to 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase; and then pumping the oil phase into an emulsification tank, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5 minutes, cooling to 40 ℃, adding folic acid, tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, dipeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-3 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 according to the proportion of each formula, and uniformly stirring to obtain the face cream used in the examples 1-4 and the comparative examples 1-4.
Test subjects: 360 healthy female volunteers aged 30-50 years old.
And (3) inclusion standard: poor skin elasticity and skin aging phenomena such as wrinkles appear; no other cosmetic was used throughout the test period.
The test method comprises the following steps: the test volunteers were randomly divided into 8 groups of 45 cases each based on the parallel control principle, and the creams prepared in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were used, respectively. After the test volunteers clean the face in the morning and in the evening, 1-1.5 g of cream is respectively applied to the face and is stopped after 4 weeks of use, VISIA face imaging detectors are adopted to shoot high-definition and standardized images for the face of the volunteers before (0 week), 4 weeks, 8 weeks and 12 weeks of use respectively, skin strip fine lines are read, and 3 groups of data are averaged for each test. And rebound was assessed at week 12 for the population with improved efficacy at week 4.
The instrument comprises the following steps: the face imaging detector VISIA XZ-25, Canfield, USA.
And (3) testing results:
the test results are shown in the table, in which the evaluation indices include three grades of skin without any improvement (a), mild improvement (B) and significant improvement (C). By no improvement is meant a skin wrinkle improvement x of 0% or less compared to before use (0 weeks). The mild improvement means that the improvement rate of skin wrinkles is 0< x < 5% compared with that before use (0 week) on the premise of improving, and the obvious improvement means that the improvement rate of skin wrinkles is more than or equal to 5% compared with that before use (0 week), and the mild improvement and the obvious improvement are not coincident.
The skin wrinkle improvement rate (x) is (number of fine lines before use (0 week) -number of fine lines after use)/number of fine lines before use (0 week).
Skin wrinkle rebound ratio (y) was (number of persons who did not improve at week 12 (evaluation: a) -number of persons who did not improve at week 4 (evaluation: a))/total number of persons who had improvement effect at week 4 (evaluation: B and C)
The skin anti-wrinkle test results are shown in Table 2
TABLE 2 anti-wrinkle test results on skin
2. The compositions of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were moisture retention and elasticity test:
the test method comprises the following steps: the test volunteers were randomly divided into 8 groups of 45 cases each based on the parallel control principle, and the creams prepared in examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were used, respectively. After cleaning the face of a test volunteer in the morning and in the evening, respectively taking 1-1.5 g of face cream to be smeared on the face, stopping using the face cream after 4 weeks, testing the skin related index condition by adopting a skin moisture content tester and a skin elasticity tester, and taking an average value of 3 groups of data tested each time.
The instrument comprises the following steps: skin moisture content tester Corneometer CM825, CK company, germany; skin elasticity tester Cutometer MPA580, CK company, germany.
And (3) testing results:
the parameters of moisture retention and elasticity evaluation are shown in the table:
the moisture retention evaluation parameters are shown in Table 3
TABLE 3 evaluation parameters for moisture retention
The elasticity evaluation parameters are shown in Table 4
TABLE 4 elasticity evaluation parameters
Skin moisturization and elasticity test results, see Table 5
Table 5 skin moisturization and elasticity test results
According to the experiment, the folic acid, the polypeptides and the shea butter are combined, so that the folic acid can be absorbed, the utilization rate of the folic acid is improved, the components are synergistic, the anti-wrinkle and elasticity-increasing effects of the composition are remarkable, and the skin-care effect can be maintained for a long time without rebound after the composition is used for a long time.
Examples 5 to 7
The formulation of the eye cream is shown in Table 6
TABLE 6 eye cream formula table
Comparative example 5 compared with example 5, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition of comparative example 5 was added in an amount of 0, and the skin conditioner was added in an amount of 13.406 parts by weight, and the skin conditioner of comparative example 5 was formulated in the same ratio of the components as that of example 5. The others are unchanged.
Comparative example 6
Compared with example 5, the carbomer of comparative example 6 was replaced with xanthan gum in a constant amount; the tromethamine is changed into triethanolamine with the same dosage; cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate were added in amounts of 0, polysorbate-60 in an amount of 2.5 parts by weight, stearic acid in an amount of 1.4 parts by weight, and sorbitan stearate in an amount of 1.3 parts by weight. The others are unchanged.
Comparative example 7
In comparison with example 5, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition of comparative example 7 was replaced with folic acid, tripeptide-1 and water, and the others were not changed.
Comparative example 8
Compared to example 5, the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition of comparative example 8 was replaced with folic acid, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, shea butter, and water, and the others were unchanged.
Example 8
Eye creams are prepared by the formulas of the examples 5-7 and the comparative examples 5-8 (when a certain component is not contained in the formula, the component is not added in the preparation process, and the raw materials in the comparative examples are correspondingly replaced by corresponding replacement raw materials):
A) heating water, humectant, thickener and chelating agent to 80 deg.C, dissolving, and stirring to obtain phase A.
B) Heating surfactant, shea butter, tocopherol acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and polydimethylsiloxane in skin conditioner to 80 deg.C, dissolving, and stirring to obtain phase B.
C) Emulsifying the phase A and the phase B at 80 ℃, fully mixing and dispersing, and cooling to 45 ℃.
D) Sequentially adding pH regulator, folic acid, tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexylglycerin, flos Nelumbinis extract, Phyllostachys nigra extract, ceramide 3, and cyclodextrin in skin conditioner, and stirring.
E) Cooling to 33 ℃ and defoaming.
3. Anti-wrinkle efficacy test of eye creams of examples 5 to 7 and comparative examples 5 to 8:
test materials: eye creams of examples 5 to 7 and comparative examples 5 to 8.
Test subjects: 315 female volunteers of 30-50 years old with good health.
And (3) inclusion standard: poor skin elasticity and skin aging phenomena such as wrinkles appear; no other cosmetic was used throughout the test period.
The test method comprises the following steps: the test volunteers were randomly divided into 7 groups of 45 cases by the parallel control principle, and the eye creams prepared in the examples and comparative examples were used, respectively. After cleaning the face of a test volunteer in the morning and in the evening, 0.3-0.5 g of eye cream is respectively applied to the skin around the eyes, the use is stopped after 4 weeks of use, and the improvement conditions of crow's feet, wrinkles under the eyes and wrinkles at the lacrimal duct around the eyes are respectively scored before (0 week), 4 week and 8 week of use. According to the using effect, the score is between 0 and 9, the score is the best when 9 is used, and the score is the worst when 0 is used, and the average value is taken.
The test results are shown in Table 7
TABLE 7 test results
As can be seen from table 7, the folic acid, the polypeptides and the shea butter are combined, so that the folic acid absorption can be promoted, the folic acid utilization rate is improved, the components are synergistic, the anti-wrinkle and elasticity-increasing effects of the composition are remarkable, the anti-wrinkle composition containing the folic acid in the eye cream is better matched with carbomer and tromethamine, the effect is most remarkable when the dosage of the anti-wrinkle composition containing the folic acid in the eye cream is the dosage of example 2, and the skin care effect can be maintained for a long time without rebound after the dosage of the composition is suspended.
The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. An anti-wrinkle composition containing folic acid, which is characterized by comprising
0.001 to 1 part by weight of folic acid;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of tripeptide-1 copper;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of hexapeptide-9;
0.001 to 1 part by weight of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4;
0.2-8 parts by weight of shea butter.
2. An eye cream comprising the folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition according to claim 1.
3. The eye cream as claimed in claim 2, comprising:
3.21-12.5 parts by weight of humectant
0.1 to 0.35 part by weight of a thickener
0.01 to 0.05 part by weight of a chelating agent
0.05-0.3 part by weight of pH regulator
2.2-9.2 parts by weight of surfactant
0.206-14 parts by weight of folic acid-containing anti-wrinkle composition
3.85-32.5 parts by weight of skin conditioner
52.144-70.84 parts by weight of water.
4. The eye cream of claim 3, wherein the moisturizer is selected from one or more of glycerin, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol, and 1, 2-pentanediol.
5. The eye cream of claim 3, wherein the thickener is selected from one or more of carbomer and cellulose gum; the chelating agent is selected from disodium EDTA.
6. Eye cream according to claim 3, characterized in that the pH regulator is selected from tromethamine.
7. The eye cream of claim 3, wherein the surfactant is selected from one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polysorbate-60, stearic acid and sorbitan stearate.
8. Eye cream according to claim 3, characterized in that the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more of tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethylhexanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerol, lotus extract, Phyllostachys nigra extract, ceramide 3 and cyclodextrin.
9. A method for preparing the eye cream as claimed in claim 8, comprising the steps of:
A) mixing and heating water, humectant, thickener and chelating agent to obtain phase A;
B) mixing surfactant, shea butter, tocopherol acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated C6-14 alkene polymers, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and polydimethylsiloxane, and heating to obtain phase B;
C) mixing and emulsifying the phase A and the phase B to obtain an emulsion;
D) and sequentially adding a pH regulator, folic acid, tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, tripeptide-1 copper, hexapeptide-9, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, and caprylyl glycol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerin, lotus flower extract, phyllostachys pubescens extract, ceramide 3 and cyclodextrin in a skin conditioner into the emulsion, uniformly mixing, and defoaming to obtain the eye cream.
10. The method for preparing the compound of claim 9, wherein the temperature of the mixing and heating in the step A) is 75-90 ℃;
in the step B), the mixing and heating temperature is 75-90 ℃;
in the step C), the emulsifying temperature is 75-90 ℃, and after the emulsifying is finished, the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃ to obtain an emulsion;
in step D), the defoaming is carried out at a temperature of less than 35 ℃.
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| CN115024996A (en) * | 2021-03-04 | 2022-09-09 | 新生活化妆品科技(上海)有限公司 | Composite polypeptide for improving expression lines and application and cosmetic composition thereof |
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