CN111206328A - Cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and production method thereof - Google Patents

Cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111206328A
CN111206328A CN201910404601.1A CN201910404601A CN111206328A CN 111206328 A CN111206328 A CN 111206328A CN 201910404601 A CN201910404601 A CN 201910404601A CN 111206328 A CN111206328 A CN 111206328A
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China
Prior art keywords
fabric
twisting
cotton
polyester filament
yarn
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CN201910404601.1A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN111206328B (en
Inventor
翁佛全
张晴
梁海燕
范宏伟
管其兵
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Toray Synthetic Fibers Nantong Co ltd
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Toray Fibers Nantong Co Ltd
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Toray Synthetic Fibers Nantong Co ltd
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D02G1/0266Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting false-twisting machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/06Non-run fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/0005Materials specially adapted for outerwear made from a plurality of interconnected elements
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10Knitted
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F6/00Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F6/88Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
    • D01F6/92Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0286Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns
    • D02G1/0293Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns composed, at least in part, of natural fibres

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a cotton-like knitted fabric, a polyester filament yarn and a production method thereof. The fabric is a weft knitting knitted fabric which is knitted by a knitting raw material containing at least 45% by weight of polyester filament yarn; the pore area of the fabric is distributed in 6000-22000 mu m2Centered, dispersed over 2 sigma, and has a coefficient of variation of pore area greater than 40%. The polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and twisting areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is less than 0.3cm, the length variation coefficient is more than 60%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 30-70% of the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction, and the total length of the polyester filament yarn is 20.0-40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn. The knitted fabric has extremely strong cotton hand feelingAnd has good air permeability, breaking strength, water absorption quick drying property and ultraviolet resistance.

Description

Cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and production method thereof
The application is a divisional application of Chinese patent application No.201580062496.8(PCT application number is PCT/CN2015/097077) with the application date of 2015, 12 and 11, and the invention name of the invention is 'a cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and a production method thereof'.
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cotton-like knitted fabric, a polyester filament yarn and a production method thereof, in particular to a cotton-like knitted fabric suitable for manufacturing a T-shirt and a polyester filament yarn used as a raw material of the cotton-like knitted fabric.
Background
At present, most of knitted T-shirts in the market mainly comprise cotton fibers, and have the advantages of good softness and water absorbability compared with chemical fiber T-shirts, but the defects of cotton products are gradually exposed in the using process, for example, the air permeability and the quick drying property are poor. In addition, with the increasing market demand, certain pressure exists in the supply of cotton fibers, and the cotton planting is easily influenced by climate, so that the supply of cotton raw materials has great instability. Therefore, the chemical fiber is used for replacing cotton fiber, and the cotton-like knitted fabric which has the advantages of cotton and can solve the defects of the cotton is very necessary to be produced.
At present, the research on cotton-like knitted fabrics is also more. For example, patent document CN103898670A discloses a cotton-like knitted fabric and a production method thereof, wherein pure polyester staple fiber yarn, polyester cotton staple fiber yarn and spandex are mixed and woven, and the woven fabric is subjected to a high-temperature alkali reduction process, so that good soft feeling and strong cotton feeling are obtained, the water absorption quick-drying property is greatly improved, the defect that the chemical fiber fabric is stuffy when worn is overcome, but the high-temperature alkali reduction treatment can dissolve hairiness on the surface of the fabric and reduce the hairiness feeling of the fabric, the treatment temperature is high, caustic soda is required to be used, the purpose of energy conservation and emission reduction cannot be realized, and the processing cost is increased; in addition, most of the raw materials used for weaving are short fibers, which affect the air permeability and the breaking strength of the fabric.
For example, patent document CN102517775A discloses a jacquard air layer super cotton-like moisture-absorbing and heat-generating knitted fabric, which uses at least blended yarn formed by Porel fibers (capillary polyester long fibers) and cellulose fibers, and the content of the cellulose fibers in the blended yarn is 50% to 60%, so that the obtained knitted fabric has very excellent cotton-like effect and water-absorbing quick-drying property, but the Porel fibers belong to special functional fibers and have relatively high content, which increases production cost.
In addition, there is also a technique of imparting a certain natural fiber style to a yarn by subjecting a polyester filament yarn to false twisting. For example, patent document CN103603113A discloses a processed yarn obtained by melt-false twisting polyester filaments and having soft texture and uneven surface texture, and a fabric produced from the processed yarn has a gritty and hollow texture, but since the variation coefficient of the length of the twisted region in the false twisting direction of the yarn is too small, the obtained fabric has uniform pore area distribution and strong luster, and does not have the appearance and texture of cotton products; further, as disclosed in Japanese patent laid-open No. 2000-303287, a polyester partially-fused yarn in which twisted portions in a false twist direction, untwisted crimp portions and untwisted portions are alternately present, and the yarn surface is hardly roughened, and the glossy feeling is reduced, thereby solving the unevenness in the surface of the hemp-feeling fabric and the rough feeling, but it is difficult to control the untwisted crimp portions between the twisted portions in the false twist direction and the twisted portions in the untwisted direction, and the fabric produced therefrom is complicated in processing and high in cost, and has a strong hemp feeling, and cannot have a feeling and appearance comparable to those of a cotton product.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above problems, the present invention aims to provide a polyester filament yarn with simple processing, soft hand feeling and strong natural fiber feeling, and a cotton-like knitted fabric with excellent cotton-like effect, good air permeability, breaking strength, water absorption quick-drying property and ultraviolet resistance. The technical solution of the invention is as follows:
the cotton-like knitted fabric is a weft knitted fabric knitted by a knitting raw material containing at least 45 wt% of polyester filaments; the pore area of the fabric is distributed in 6000-22000 mu m2Centered, dispersed over 2 sigma, and has a coefficient of variation of pore area greater than 40%.
The polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and twisting areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is less than 0.3cm, the variation coefficient is more than 60 percent, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 30 to 70 percent of the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction in the polyester filament yarn is 20.0 to 40.0 percent of the total length of the polyester filament yarn.
The pore area distribution of the cotton-like knitted fabric is consistent with that of a cotton-containing product, and the cotton-like knitted fabric has the appearance of the cotton-containing product; meanwhile, as the polyester filament yarn is used as the main raw material, compared with short fiber products, the polyester filament yarn has good air permeability (JISL1096-2010 standard A method: 75-150 cm)3/cm2As well as the breaking strength (JISL1096-2010 standard: 700kpa or more); compared with cotton-containing products, has superior water absorption and quick drying (Keken method: residual moisture rate after 60 min)10% or less); furthermore, the diameters of the polyester filaments used in the invention are not uniform, so that the diffuse reflection effect of the fabric is improved, and the polyester has an anti-ultraviolet aromatic ring molecular structure, so that the anti-ultraviolet performance of the fabric is excellent (Australian standard AS/NZS 4399-1996: the UPF value is more than 45). The fabric is particularly suitable for manufacturing T-shirts and the like. In addition, the processing method of the polyester filament yarn is simple and easy to implement, soft in hand feeling and strong in natural fiber feeling.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a side view in the longitudinal direction of a polyester filament yarn of the present invention. Wherein: the number 1 is a false twist direction twist area, the number 2 is a reverse twist area, and the number 3 is a false twist direction twist area.
FIG. 2 is a process flow diagram of the polyester filament yarn of the present invention. Wherein 4 is terylene pre-oriented yarn POY, 5 is a 1 st roller, 6 is a 1 st hot box, 7 is a false twister, 8 is a moving sliver, 9 is a 2 nd roller, 10 is a 2 nd hot box, 11 is a 3 rd roller, 12 is terylene filament (draw texturing yarn DTY), and 13 is a coiling drum.
Detailed Description
The present invention relates to the following items.
1. A cotton-like knitted fabric is characterized in that: the fabric is a weft knitting knitted fabric which is knitted by a knitting raw material containing at least 45% by weight of polyester filament yarn; the pore area of the fabric is distributed in 6000-22000 mu m2Centered, dispersed over 2 sigma, and has a coefficient of variation of pore area greater than 40%.
2. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to item 1, which is characterized in that: the content of the polyester filament yarn is 100 wt%.
3. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to item 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and twisting areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is less than 0.3cm, the length variation coefficient is more than 60%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 30-70% of the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction in the polyester filament yarn is 20.0-40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn.
4. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to item 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the total titer of the polyester filament is 56-220 dtex, and the titer of the single filament is less than 1.30 dtex.
5. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to item 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the fabric is a fluffy product.
6. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to item 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the fabric is obtained by weaving single filaments or weaving two filaments after being combined.
7. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to item 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the bending rigidity of the fabric is 0.015-0.045N-cm2A surface roughness of 3.0 to 6.0 mu, a compression ratio of 0.20 to 0.80 N.cm/cm2
8. A polyester filament yarn is characterized in that: the polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and twisting areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is less than 0.3cm, the length variation coefficient is more than 60%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 30-70% of the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction, and the length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 20.0-40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn.
9. The polyester filament yarn according to item 8, characterized in that: the total titer of the polyester filament is 56-220 dtex, and the titer of the single filament is less than 1.30 dtex.
10. A method for manufacturing the polyester filament yarn according to item 8 or 9, comprising the steps of:
leading the polyester pre-oriented yarns into a first roller, then leading the polyester pre-oriented yarns into a first hot box for heating, and then leading the polyester pre-oriented yarns into a false twister, a second roller, a second hot box and a third roller in sequence to obtain polyester filaments;
wherein the temperature in the first hot box is 230-250 ℃;
and the D/Y ratio in the step is 1.5-2.5.
The knitted fabric is a weft knitted fabric knitted from a knitting raw material containing at least 45 wt% of polyester filaments, and the pore area distribution of the weft knitted fabric is 6000-22000 mu m2Centered, dispersed over 2 sigma, and has a coefficient of variation of pore area greater than 40%.
Considering that the polyester filament yarn in the chemical fiber is simple to process and low in cost; compared with polyester staple fiber fabrics, the polyester filament yarn fabrics have superior performances such as air permeability, breaking strength and the like, and therefore are used as weaving raw materials of the invention. In addition, the weft knitting structure has better elasticity and soft comfort compared with other types of structures, so the weft knitting structure is taken as the knitting structure of the invention.
When the content of the used polyester filament yarn is less than 45 percent, the pores of the fabric are reduced, the air permeability is reduced, and the wearing comfort is influenced; moreover, the appearance of the cotton-like product cannot be obtained, and the distribution center of the pore area is not 6000 to 22000 mu m2And (4) the following steps.
In the invention, the pore area distribution of the fabric is 6000-22000 mu m2Centered, dispersed over 2 sigma, and has a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) greater than 40%, consistent with the appearance of cotton-containing products. When the pore area distribution center of the fabric is less than 6000 mu m2When the cotton fabric is used, the pores of the fabric become small, the tightness degree becomes large, and the cotton feeling of the fabric is reduced due to the over-hard hand feeling of the fabric; in addition, when the fabric is too tight, the air permeability and elasticity of the fabric are reduced, and the wearing comfort is greatly reduced. When the pore area distribution center of the fabric is larger than 22000 mu m2When the cotton-containing fabric is used, the pores of the fabric become large, and the fabric is too loose, so that the requirements of waist bone feeling and thickness feeling of the cotton-containing product cannot be met. If the pore area is dispersed within 2 sigma and the variation coefficient of the pore area of the fabric is less than 40%, the pore size of the fabric is uniform, the concave-convex feeling is weak, and the gloss feeling of the fabric is stronger (namely the chemical fiber feeling is strong), which is contrary to the low gloss feeling of cotton-containing products.
In order to make the pore distribution of the fabric closer to that of a cotton-containing product, the content of the polyester filament yarn used in the invention is preferably 100%. The larger the content of the used polyester filament yarn is, the more uneven the distribution of the pore area is, and the appearance and the hand feeling of the pure cotton short fiber fabric can be simulated. Of course, the invention can also adopt the polyester staple fiber yarn, the natural fiber staple fiber yarn and the like to be interwoven with the polyester filament yarn used by the invention so as to achieve the cotton-like effect.
Preferably, the polyester filament yarn used in the present invention is formed by alternately twisting the false twist direction twist region and the reverse twist region, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist region is 0.3cm or less, the length variation coefficient is 60% or more, the diameter is 30% to 70% of the diameter of the reverse twist region, and the total length of the false twist direction twist region in the polyester filament yarn is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn. The polyester filament yarn not only has appearance, but also has various performances similar to those of cotton spun yarns. The false twist direction twist region is an untwisted portion of the yarn, and the reverse twist region is an untwisted portion of the yarn.
If the average length of the twist area in the false twisting direction of the polyester filament yarn used in the present invention is greater than 0.3cm, the proportion of the twist area in the false twisting direction in the yarn length direction increases, the yarn becomes relatively thin and hard, and although the waist bone feeling of the fabric produced from the yarn increases, the hand feeling tends to become hard.
If the length variation coefficient (C.V) of the polyester filament yarn used in the invention is less than 60%, the pore surface distribution of the fabric prepared from the polyester filament yarn tends to become uniform, the phenomenon of cotton-like effect weakening may occur, and the cotton-like appearance is difficult to obtain.
The polyester filament used in the invention has the advantages that the smaller the proportion of the diameter of the false twisting direction twisting area to the diameter of the reverse twisting area is, namely the larger the difference between the diameter of the false twisting direction twisting area and the diameter of the reverse twisting area is, the more uneven the area distribution of the pores of the fabric is, and the closer the appearance of the fabric is to a product containing cotton; however, if the ratio of the diameter of the twist region in the false twisting direction to the diameter of the twist region in the reverse direction is less than 30%, the difference between the diameter of the twist region in the false twisting direction and the diameter of the twist region in the reverse direction is too large, which may cause the voids of the fabric to be too large, decrease the texture, and affect the cotton-like effect. If the ratio of the diameter of the false twisting direction twisting area to the diameter of the reverse twisting area is more than 70 percent, the difference between the diameter of the false twisting direction twisting area and the diameter of the reverse twisting area is not large, which may cause the pore distribution of the fabric to be too uniform, and influence the appearance effect of the cotton-like fabric; in addition, it may cause the diameter of the reverse false twist region of the yarn to be narrowed, so that the softness of the fabric is reduced.
In addition, the smaller the ratio of the total length of the twisted area in the false twisting direction to the total length of the polyester filament yarn, the better the fluffy feeling and soft feeling of the fabric can be given. If the proportion of the twist area in the false twisting direction is less than 20 percent, although the fluffy feeling and the soft feeling of the fabric are improved, the waist bone feeling is reduced, and the unity of the waist bone feeling and the soft feeling of the cotton product cannot be achieved; if the proportion of the twist area in the false twisting direction is more than 40%, although the waist bone feeling of the fabric is increased, the soft feeling is reduced, and the waist bone feeling and the soft feeling of the cotton product can not be unified.
The total titer of the polyester filament yarns used in the invention is 56-220 dtex. When the total titer is less than 56dtex, the pore area of the fabric prepared from the fiber is reduced, the difference of the pore area is reduced, the thickness of the fabric is thinned, and the appearance effect and the hand feeling of the cotton-like fabric are possibly not weakened; when the total fineness is more than 220dtex, the pores of the fabric prepared from the fiber are enlarged, so that the compact feeling of an all-cotton product cannot be obtained, and the fabric is too thick and has poor cotton-like effect.
The filament number of the polyester filament used in the invention is preferably less than 1.3 dtex. If the filament number is more than 1.3dtex, the fine hand feeling of the fabric can be influenced, and the cotton-like effect is reduced.
The fabric is obtained by weaving a single polyester filament yarn or combining two polyester filament yarns, then weaving, refining, dyeing, shaping and the like, so that the compactness and the pore distribution of the fabric can be unified. If the polyester filament yarns of 56-100 dtex are adopted, double feeding can be adopted for weaving; if the polyester filament yarn with the length of 100-220 dtex is adopted, the polyester filament yarn can be woven by single feeding.
In order to enable the hand feeling of the fabric to be closer to that of a cotton product, the cotton-like knitted fabric is preferably obtained through a raising process. The equipment for raising is not particularly limited, and Italian Sperotto grainy suede machine with speed of 5-30 m/min, tension of 0.4-0.6 MPa and grainy number of 160-240 # can be adopted.
Preferably, the bending rigidity (B) of the cotton-like knitted fabric is 0.015-0.045N-cm2A surface roughness (SMD) of 3 to 6 mu, a compression Work (WC) of 0.2 to 0.8 N.cm/cm2All-cotton T-shirt fabric with the same performance as that of all-cotton T-shirt fabric sold on the marketAnd (5) the consistency is achieved. The invention solves the technical difficulty that even if the surface roughness of the common polyester filament cotton-like fabric is the same as that of a cotton-containing product, the bending rigidity and the compression ratio cannot meet the requirements of the cotton product. The bending rigidity refers to the rigidity and flexibility of the fabric, the waist bone feeling of the fabric is reflected, the larger the numerical value is, the higher the rigidity of the fabric is, and the cotton product has certain softness and waist bone feeling; the surface roughness refers to the smoothness of the surface of the fabric, and a small numerical value indicates that the fabric feels smooth, otherwise, the fabric feels rough; the compression ratio work is the fluffy feeling of the fabric, and the larger the numerical value is, the bulkier the fabric is.
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited in knitting structure, and a plain stitch structure, a bead structure, or the like may be used to give a certain degree of denseness to the fabric, and a plain stitch structure is preferred.
The polyester filament yarn can be prepared by the following method: enabling polyester pre-oriented yarn POY to pass through a first roller according to the process shown in the attached figure 2, then entering a first hot box for heating, and then sequentially leading the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY into a false twister, a second roller, a second hot box and a third roller to obtain a product; wherein the temperature in the first hot box is 230-250 ℃; the D/Y ratio is 1.5 to 2.5. In the above process, the speed is not limited, but for convenient operation, the speed is preferably 300 to 500 m/min; the draw ratio is not limited, but is preferably 1.10 to 2.00 for easy handling.
The polyester pre-oriented yarn POY used in the above-described process can be obtained by a method known in the art, and for example, can be obtained by melt spinning using a commercially available polyester chip stock. The melt spinning speed may be suitably set, and is preferably 2500 to 3500 m/min. The fineness and the number of filaments of the obtained polyester pre-oriented yarn POY are not particularly limited, but in order to obtain a polyester filament yarn suitable for the present invention, the fineness of the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY is preferably 70 to 280dtex, and the number of filaments is preferably 70 to 280.
In the processing process, when the temperature of the first hot box is lower than 230 ℃, although the average length of the twisting area in the false twisting direction can be controlled below 0.3cm, the proportion of the total length of the twisting area in the total length of the polyester filaments is less than 20%, the soft feeling of the fabric prepared by the twisting area is improved, the waist bone feeling is weakened, and the cotton-like hand feeling cannot be obtained; in addition, the ratio of the diameter of the twist area in the false twisting direction to the diameter of the twist area in the reverse direction is less than 30%, and the difference between the diameters of the two areas is large, so that the pore area distribution of the fabric becomes more uneven, but at the same time, the partial pore area in the fabric is too large, and the same dense feeling as a cotton product cannot be realized. If the temperature of the first hot box is higher than 250 ℃, the average length of the twisting area in the false twisting direction exceeds 0.3cm, and the proportion of the total length of the twisting area to the total length of the filaments also exceeds 40 percent, so that the fabric prepared from the yarn has improved waist bone feeling, but greatly reduced softness, and the cotton-like hand feeling can not be obtained. If the proportion of the diameter of the false twisting direction twisting area to the diameter of the reverse twisting area is more than 70%, the diameter of the reverse false twisting area of the yarn is reduced, the whole yarn is too stiff, and the cotton imitation effect (softness) of the fabric is influenced.
Considering the cotton nep-like effect, the variation coefficient (C.V) of the length of the twist zone in the false twisting direction of the polyester filament needs to be controlled to be more than 60%, so the D/Y ratio needs to be set to 1.5-2.5 during the processing. The D/Y ratio here is the surface speed of the stack divided by the 2 roller surface speed. If the D/Y ratio is less than 1.5, the untwisting tension is too high, the twisted area in the false twisting direction is broken, the length distribution thereof becomes too uniform, and the coefficient of variation (C.V) is too small, and if the coefficient of variation (C.V) is less than 60%, the pore surface distribution of the fabric produced therefrom tends to become uniform, the neplike effect is weakened, and the appearance of the cotton-containing product may not be obtained; if the D/Y ratio is greater than 2.5, the untwisting tension is too low, and the yarn quality cannot be ensured.
Preferably, the fineness of the polyester filament yarn is 56 to 220 dtex. If the fineness is less than 56dtex, that is, the raw material yarn used is relatively fine, and in the first hot box false twisting process, the raw material yarn is too fine, and an excessive fusion false twisting phenomenon may occur, so that the reverse twisting region is difficult to untwist and the diameter is reduced in the untwisting process, the difference in diameter between the false twisting region and the reverse twisting region is reduced, the pore area of the fabric formed by the regions is reduced, and the difference in pore area tends to be less obvious, and the appearance of the cotton-containing product may be difficult to obtain; in addition, the average length of the twisted area in the false twisting direction is more than 0.3cm, and the total length of the twisted area accounts for more than 40% of the total length of the filament, so that the polyester filament feels relatively hard, and the fabric formed by the polyester filament has improved waist bone feeling, but is difficult to obtain soft feeling like cotton-containing products. If the fineness is more than 220dtex, namely the raw material yarn is thicker, the raw material yarn is too thick and can be insufficiently fused in the false twisting process of the first hot box, so that the diameter of a reverse false twisting area is relatively larger, and the ratio of the diameter of the false twisting area in the false twisting direction to the diameter of the reverse twisting area is less than 30 percent, the diameter difference of the two areas is larger, the pore area of the fabric formed by the areas is larger, and the dense feeling of a cotton-containing product tends to be reduced; in addition, it is also possible to make the total length of the twist region in the false twisting direction account for less than 20% of the total length of the filaments, and it is difficult to obtain a waist-bone-like feel of a cotton-containing product from a fabric produced therefrom.
Meanwhile, the filament fineness of the polyester filament yarn is preferably 1.30dtex or less. When the temperature of the first hot box is set to be 230-250 ℃ and the D/Y ratio is set to be 1.5-2.5, if the filament number of the polyester filament of the final product is larger than 1.30dtex, the filament number of the raw material yarn is larger, the appearance and the like of the polyester filament prepared by the processing conditions are close to those of cotton yarns, the pore distribution of the fabric prepared by the polyester filament is also close to those of cotton-containing products, but the fineness of the cotton-containing products is difficult to obtain due to the fact that the filament number is relatively higher.
Examples
The test method of each parameter related in the invention is as follows:
(1) standard deviation of pore area of fabric and pore area distribution center value
① preparing sample, cutting sample cloth with size of 20cm × 20cm and flat surface from the fabric;
② photographs of the sample's cloth cover were taken under a digital microscope (KEYENCE corporation) 50 times lens,
(a) the brightness of the sample is adjusted between 1/3-2/3 by rotating a brightness knob on the control plate. When the exposure rate is less than 1/3, the exposure rate is too low, the picture of the sample is too dim, and pores on the sample cannot be identified; above 2/3, the exposure was too high and the porosity on the sample was not recognized;
(b) the lens is adjusted to 50 times, and the definition of the sample is adjusted by rotating a focusing knob on the XY platform or the control board, so that the clear pore space on the sample is ensured. When the multiplying power of the lens is too small, the appearance area of the sample pore is too small, and the precision of the next brightness extraction pore area is influenced; when the lens multiplying power is too high, the total area of the shot sample picture is too small, the number of pores is small, and the actual distribution precision of the pore area is influenced;
(c) storing the picture, wherein the area of the fabric in the picture is about 3.6 multiplied by 107μm2
③ provides a brightness extraction method in the automatic area measurement function of VHX-2000/Ver2.35 software by KEYENCE;
(a) clicking an automatic area measurement button;
(b) selecting a brightness extraction method, and extracting a brightness area graph of the sample photo;
(c) selecting a 'dark' option in the interface to obtain a pore map in the photo;
(d) adjusting a threshold value to enable the pore of the sample to be covered right, wherein the range of the threshold value is-80- + 80;
the actual pore size of the sample cannot be exactly covered when the threshold is too small or too large, and the measured pore area is smaller than the actual area when the threshold is too small; when the pore size is too large, the measured pore area is larger than the actual area;
(e) and finally clicking the next step to obtain the area data of the sample pores, and storing the data. And the standard deviation sigma of the pore area of the sample and the central value mu (unit: mu m) of the pore area distribution are recorded2)。
(2) Coefficient of variation
① coefficient of variation of fabric pore area:
standard deviation σ of pore area ÷ pore area distribution center value μ × 100%.
② the variation coefficient of the twisting zone length in the false twisting direction of the polyester filament:
the coefficient of variation of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction is the standard deviation σ of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction ÷ the average value μ × 100% of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction.
Wherein, 50cm polyester filament is randomly selected, then the length of 20 groups of false twisting direction twisting areas is measured, and finally the standard deviation sigma and the length average value mu are calculated (the test method refers to the proportion of the length of the false twisting direction twisting area on the polyester filament to the total length of the polyester filament in the following description of '7').
(3) Flexural rigidity
According to KES FB2 method. (KES Fabric stylists are those designed and manufactured by Ogawa Quadry, Chuanxian, university of Kyoto, Japan, where FB2 is a bending Performance tester.)
(4) Surface roughness
According to KES FB4 method. (KES Fabric stylists are those designed and manufactured by professor Chuanmian Quadrong, Kyoto university, Japan, where FB4 is a Friction and surface roughness tester.)
(5) Work of compression ratio
According to KES FB3 method. (KES Fabric stylists are those made by professor Chuanxianyongrou, Kyoto university, Japan, where FB3 is a compression and caliper tester.)
(6) The ratio of the diameter of the twist area in the false twisting direction to the diameter of the twist area in the reverse direction on the polyester filament
5 polyester filaments of 20cm are randomly drawn and selected from the fabric, and the diameter of a false twisting direction twisting area and the diameter of a reverse twisting area on each polyester filament are measured by using a measuring tool of a KEYENCE digital system under a 50-time lens by using a digital microscope of the KEYENCE company. And measuring 5 groups of data of each polyester filament yarn, calculating the average value of the ratio of each polyester filament yarn, and calculating the average value of the total ratio after 5 polyester filament yarns are measured.
(7) The length of the twist area in the false twisting direction on the polyester filament accounts for the total length of the polyester filament
Randomly drawing and selecting 5 50cm polyester filaments from the fabric, applying tension of 0.1g/D to each filament, measuring the length of a twisting area in the false twisting direction on the filament by using EIB-E (LaWSON-HEMPHILL model of Lawson-Hemmerfell company), measuring 5 groups of data and calculating the average value of the length proportion of each polyester filament, and calculating the final average value of the length proportion after 5 filaments are measured.
(8) Softness of polyester filament yarn
The evaluation was conducted by 20 persons, and the softness of the filaments was classified into 4 grades, i.e., excellent, good, medium, and poor. Wherein, the softness of the filaments is better when 15 or more people consider the filaments to be soft, good when 10-14 people consider the filaments to be soft, medium when 5-10 people consider the filaments to be soft, and poor when less than 5 people consider the filaments to be soft.
The present invention will be further described with reference to examples and comparative examples.
Example 1
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 at a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 deg.C, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament number of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.13cm, the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 78%, the diameter is 43% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 31.3% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 2
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the titer of 252dtex and the number of filaments of 278; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 200dtex, a filament number of 278 and a filament fineness of 0.72 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.10cm, the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 78%, the diameter is 40% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 22.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 3
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the titer of 71dtex and the number of monofilaments of 78; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the processing conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 56dtex, a filament number of 78 and a filament fineness of 0.72 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.18cm, the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, the diameter is 55% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 35.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 4
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the processing conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 232 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament number of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.10cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 77%, the diameter is 39% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 5
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toronti synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the number of monofilaments of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 245 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament count of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 0.25cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 78%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 54%, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 6
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the processing conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.6, to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament count of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.25cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 61%, the diameter is 56% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 7
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the processing conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 2.3 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament number of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.10cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 90%, the diameter of the reverse twisting area is 38%, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 8
Selecting polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at 2800m/min to obtain polyester POY with fineness of 169dtex and monofilament number of 96; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 134dtex, a filament number of 96 and a filament fineness of 1.40 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.12cm, the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, the diameter is 40% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 28.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Comparative example 1
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the titer of 40dtex and the number of monofilaments of 36; then false twisting is carried out according to the procedure of figure 2 under the processing conditions of speed of 400m/min, first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, extension ratio of 1.26 and D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain the terylene filament with fineness of 28dtex, monofilament number of 36 and monofilament fineness of 0.78dtex
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 0.31cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 78%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 80%, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Comparative example 2
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 410dtex and the number of monofilaments of 288; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 250dtex, a filament number of 288 and a filament fineness of 0.87 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 0.08cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 79 percent, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 28 percent, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 18.0 percent of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Comparative example 3
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the processing conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 252 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament number of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained terylene false twist filament yarn is formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse twist areas in an alternating mode, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.35cm, the variation coefficient of the length (C.V) is 79 percent, the diameter of the false twist direction twist areas is 78 percent of the diameter of the reverse twist areas, and the total length of the false twist direction twist areas is 42.0 percent of the total length of the terylene filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Comparative example 4
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 225 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament count of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 0.06cm, the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 80%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 26%, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Comparative example 5
Selecting a polyester chip raw material (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.), and carrying out melt spinning at a speed of 2800m/min to obtain a polyester POY with the fineness of 128dtex and the monofilament number of 144; then, false twisting was carried out according to the procedure shown in FIG. 2 under the processing conditions of a speed of 400m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ℃, an elongation of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.3 to obtain a polyester filament yarn having a fineness of 100dtex, a filament number of 144 and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
The obtained polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting the false twisting direction twisting area and the reverse twisting area, wherein the average length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 0.38cm, the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 55%, the diameter is 68% of the diameter of the reverse twisting area, and the total length of the false twisting direction twisting area is 55.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn, which is shown in table 1.
Example 9
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained by selecting 55 wt% of a common polyester false-twist yarn of 56dtex-78f (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45 wt% of the polyester filament yarn of example 3, knitting the yarn with plain stitch on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then carrying out refining (80 ℃ C.. times.20 min), dyeing (98 ℃ C.. times.30 min), sizing (160 ℃ C.. times.72 sec), and raising.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 6000 mu m2Centered and dispersed at 20 or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 41%, and a bending rigidity (B) of 0.025N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 4.1 mu, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.35N cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Example 10
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention was produced by selecting 55 wt% of a 200dtex-278f common polyester false twist yarn (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45 wt% of the polyester filament yarn of example 2, knitting the yarn with a plain stitch on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then carrying out refining (80 ℃ X20 min), dyeing (98 ℃ X30 min), sizing (160 ℃ X72S) and raising processing.
The pore area distribution of the obtained face fabric was 15000. mu.m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 47%, and a flexural rigidity (B) of 0.015N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 3.0 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.80N · cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Example 11
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained by selecting 35 wt% of 100dtex-144f common polyester false twist processed yarn (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65 wt% of the polyester filament yarn of example 7, knitting the yarn with plain stitch on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then refining (80 ℃ X20 min), dyeing (98 ℃ X30 min) and sizing (160 ℃ X72S).
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 14000 mu m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 51%, and a bending rigidity (B) of 0.024N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 3.8 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.75N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Example 12
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained by selecting 35 wt% of 100dtex-144f common polyester false twist processed yarn (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65 wt% of the polyester filament yarn of example 6, knitting the yarn with plain stitch on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then refining (80 ℃ X20 min), dyeing (98 ℃ X30 min) and sizing (160 ℃ X72S).
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 13000 mu m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 48%, and a bending stiffness (B) of 0.034N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 4.9 μ, and compression Work (WC) of 0.30N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Example 13
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by selecting 100% by weight of the polyester filament yarn of example 3, knitting the polyester filament yarn in a double-yarn combination manner by a plain stitch knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then performing refining (80 ℃ x 20min), dyeing (98 ℃ x 30min), sizing (160 ℃ x 72S), and raising processes.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 6900 mu m2Centered and dispersed at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 58%, and a bending rigidity (B) of 0.045N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 6.0 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.20N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Example 14
The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by selecting 100 wt% of the polyester filament yarn of example 2, knitting the pelargonium tissue on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then performing refining (80 ℃ x 20min), dyeing (98 ℃ x 30min), sizing (160 ℃ x 72S), and raising processing.
The obtained fabric has a pore area distribution of 22000 μm2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 63%, and a flexural rigidity (B) of 0.037N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 5.1 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.50N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Example 15
The polyester filament yarn of example 8 was selected in an amount of 100 wt%, plain knit on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and then refined (80 ℃ C.. times.20 min), dyed (98 ℃ C.. times.30 min), set (160 ℃ C.. times.72S), and napped to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 19000 mu m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 64%, and a bending stiffness (B) of 0.046N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 6.3 mu, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.48N cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 6
60 weight percent of 56dtex-78f common terylene false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Dongli synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 40 weight percent of the terylene filament yarn of the embodiment 3 are selected and are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain gray fabric, and then the cotton-like knitted fabric is obtained by refining (80 ℃ x 20min), dyeing (98 ℃ x 30min), sizing (160 ℃ x 72S) and fuzzing processing.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 4600 mu m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 30%, and a bending rigidity (B) of 0.012 N.cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 2.1 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.36N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 7
60 weight percent of 200dtex-278f common terylene false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Dongli synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 40 weight percent of the terylene filament yarn of the embodiment 2 are selected, flat knitting is carried out on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain gray fabric, and then refining (80 ℃ multiplied by 20min), dyeing (98 ℃ multiplied by 30min), sizing (160 ℃ multiplied by 72S) and fuzzing processing are carried out to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 12000 mu m2Centered and dispersed at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 35%, and flexural rigidity (B) of 0.008N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 1.8 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.85N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 8
A single-side circular knitting machine was used to knit a plain polyester false-twist yarn (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) of 28dtex to 36f of 55 wt% and the polyester filament yarn of comparative example 1 of 45 wt% to obtain a gray fabric, and then the gray fabric was refined (80 ℃ C.. times.20 min), dyed (98 ℃ C.. times.30 min) and set (160 ℃ C.. times.72S) to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 4200 mu m2Centered and dispersed at 20 or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 27%, and a flexural rigidity (B) of 0.030 N.cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 5.0 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.18N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 9
A single-side circular knitting machine was used to knit a plain polyester false-twist yarn (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) of 55 wt% of 250dtex to 288f and a polyester filament yarn (manufactured by Toray synthetic fiber Co., Ltd.) of comparative example 2 of 45 wt% to obtain a gray fabric, and then the gray fabric was subjected to refining (80 ℃ C.. times.20 min), dyeing (98 ℃ C.. times.30 min), sizing (160 ℃ C. times.72S) and raising to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 25000 mu m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 51%, and a flexural rigidity (B) of 0.007N · cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 1.6 μ, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.90N-cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 10
The polyester filament yarn of comparative example 6 was selected in an amount of 100 wt%, and plain knit on a single-side circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, which was then refined (80 ℃ C.. times.20 min), dyed (98 ℃ C.. times.30 min), set (160 ℃ C.. times.72 sec), and napped to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.
The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is 8000 mu m2Centered at 2 sigma or more, a coefficient of variation of pore area (C.V) of 25%, and a bending stiffness (B) of 0.050 N.cm2Per cm, surface roughness (SMD) of 7.1 mu, and compression ratio Work (WC) of 0.15N cm/cm2. The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in table 2.
Figure BDA0002060213670000261
From Table 1, it can be seen that
(1) As can be seen from examples 1, 2 and 3, the higher the total fineness, the shorter the average length of the twisted zones in the false twisting direction, the smaller the proportion of the filaments, and the smaller the diameter ratio to the reverse twisted zone, but the coefficient of variation in length was almost constant.
(2) As can be seen from examples 1, 4 and 5, when the same polyester POY is processed at the same false twisting speed, draw ratio and D/Y ratio, the higher the first hot box temperature is, the longer the average length of the twist region in the false twisting direction of the obtained polyester filaments is, the more the ratio of the length of the twist region in the opposite direction is, but the coefficient of variation in length is close to that of the twist region in the opposite direction.
(3) As can be seen from examples 1, 6 and 7, when the same polyester POY is processed at the same false twisting speed, first hot box temperature and draw ratio, the higher the D/Y ratio, the smaller the average length of the twist region in the false twisting direction of the obtained polyester filament, the smaller the ratio of the average length to the average length of the twist region in the opposite direction, and the larger the ratio of the length variation coefficient to the average length of the twist region in the false twisting direction, and the softer the yarn.
(4) From example 8, it can be seen that when the fineness of the single yarn exceeds 1.3dtex, the yarn is inferior in the hand feeling although the appearance and performance indexes of the yarn are close to those of cotton spun yarn.
(5) It can be seen from comparative examples 1 and 2 that the appearance and performance similar to those of cotton spun yarn cannot be obtained when the total fineness of the polyester filament yarn is too small or too large; when too small, the polyester fully-stiff yarn is formed, and when too large, the polyester fully-stiff yarn is formed into the common polyester false-twist yarn.
(6) As can be seen from comparative example 3, when the first hot box temperature exceeded 250 ℃, the yarn was completely stiff and stiff; it can be seen from comparative example 4 that the yarn is too bulky to be close to the conventional polyester false twist yarn when the first heat box temperature is lower than 230 ℃.
(7) As can be seen from comparative example 5, when the D/Y ratio is less than 1.5, appearance and properties similar to those of cotton spun yarn cannot be obtained, and the yarn is stiff.
Figure BDA0002060213670000281
As can be seen from Table 2:
(1) as can be seen from examples 9 and 13, and examples 10 and 14, the content of the yarn 2 is increased, the pore area of the fabric is increased, and the coefficient of variation of the pore area distribution is increased under the same fineness; the bending rigidity is increased, the surface roughness is increased, the compression ratio work is reduced, namely, the cotton-like effect is enhanced.
(2) From examples 11 and 12, it can be seen that the smaller the diameter ratio of the yarn 2, the larger the coefficient of variation of the length of the twist region in the false twisting direction, the larger the pores of the fabric, and the larger the coefficient of variation of the pore area of the fabric, i.e., the more uneven the distribution; in addition, the length of the twist area in the false twisting direction is shortened, the occupied ratio is reduced, the flexibility of the fabric is increased, the bending rigidity is reduced, the surface roughness is reduced, and the compression ratio work, namely the bulkiness is increased.
(3) From the examples 9 and 10, it can be seen that the larger the fineness and the smaller the diameter ratio of the yarn 2, the larger the pore area of the fabric, the larger the coefficient of variation of the pore area, i.e. the more uneven the distribution; the shorter the average length of the twisting zone in the false twisting direction, the smaller the occupied proportion, the smaller the bending rigidity of the fabric, the smaller the surface roughness, and the smaller the compression ratio work, i.e. the larger the bulkiness.
(4) From example 15, it can be seen that although the pore distribution of the fabric is close to that of the cotton-containing product, the single-filament fineness of the yarn 2 exceeds 1.3dtex, and the surface roughness of the fabric is relatively large, so that the cotton-like effect is influenced.
(5) As can be seen from comparative examples 6 and 7, when the content of the yarn 2 is less than 45%, the coefficient of variation of the pore area, which is consistent with the cotton-containing product, cannot be obtained, and thus the appearance of the cotton product is not provided.
(6) As can be seen from comparative example 8, since the yarn 2 used was a common polyester fully-stiff yarn, the fabric could not obtain an appearance consistent with that of a cotton-containing product (the pore area and the coefficient of variation of the pore area were too small); and the bulkiness of the fabric is too small, and the fabric does not have the soft feeling like a cotton product.
(7) As can be seen from comparative example 9, the used yarn 2 is close to the common terylene false twist yarn, which causes the overlarge pore area of the fabric and no compact feeling of cotton products; and the bending rigidity of the fabric is insufficient, and the waist bone feeling of a cotton product is avoided.
(8) As can be seen from comparative example 10, since the yarn 2 used does not have the appearance and performance similar to those of cotton spun yarn, the pore distribution of the fabric is too uniform, and there is no appearance of a cotton product; and the bending rigidity is overlarge, and the soft feeling of a cotton product is avoided.

Claims (7)

1. A cotton-like knitted fabric is characterized in that: the fabric is a weft knitting knitted fabric formed by knitting a knitting raw material containing more than 45% by weight of polyester filaments; the pore area of the fabric is distributed in 6000-22000 mu m2Centered, dispersed over 2 sigma, and has a coefficient of variation of pore area greater than 40%.
2. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the content of the polyester filament yarn is 100 wt%.
3. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the polyester filament yarn is formed by alternately twisting areas in the false twisting direction and twisting areas in the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction is less than 0.3cm, the length variation coefficient is more than 60%, the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction is 30-70% of the diameter of the twisting areas in the reverse direction, and the total length of the twisting areas in the false twisting direction in the polyester filament yarn is 20.0-40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament yarn.
4. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the total titer of the polyester filament is 56-220 dtex, and the titer of the single filament is less than 1.30 dtex.
5. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the fabric is a fluffy product.
6. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the fabric is obtained by weaving single filaments or weaving two filaments after being combined.
7. The cotton-like knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein: the bending rigidity of the fabric is 0.015-0.045N-cm2A surface roughness of 3.0 to 6.0 mu, a compression ratio of 0.20 to 0.80 N.cm/cm2
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