TWI677607B - Polyester filament - Google Patents

Polyester filament Download PDF

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Publication number
TWI677607B
TWI677607B TW104141720A TW104141720A TWI677607B TW I677607 B TWI677607 B TW I677607B TW 104141720 A TW104141720 A TW 104141720A TW 104141720 A TW104141720 A TW 104141720A TW I677607 B TWI677607 B TW I677607B
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Taiwan
Prior art keywords
polyester fiber
fabric
twist
cotton
false
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TW104141720A
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Chinese (zh)
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TW201632685A (en
Inventor
翁佛全
張晴
梁海燕
范宏偉
管其兵
Original Assignee
大陸商東麗纖維研究所(中國)有限公司
Toray Fibers & Textiles Research Laboratories (China) Co., Ltd.
大陸商東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司
Toray Fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
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Publication of TWI677607B publication Critical patent/TWI677607B/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D02G1/0266Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting false-twisting machines
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/0005Materials specially adapted for outerwear made from a plurality of interconnected elements
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/06Non-run fabrics or articles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10Knitted
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F6/00Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F6/88Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
    • D01F6/92Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0286Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns
    • D02G1/0293Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns composed, at least in part, of natural fibres

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

本發明公開了一種仿棉針織面料、聚酯纖維長絲及其生產方法。該面料為由包含至少45%重量以上的聚酯纖維長絲的編織原料編織而成的緯編針織物;該面料的孔隙面積分布以6000至22000μm2為中心、分散在2 σ以上,且孔隙面積的變異係數大於40%。該聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.3cm以下、長度變異係數為60%以上、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的30%至70%、且總長度為該聚酯纖維長絲總長度的20.0%至40.0%。本發明的針織面料具有極強的棉質手感,而且具有良好的透氣性、破裂強度、吸水速乾性和抗紫外線能力。 The invention discloses a cotton imitation knitted fabric, a polyester fiber filament, and a production method thereof. The fabric is a weft knitted fabric woven from a woven material containing at least 45% by weight of polyester fiber filaments; the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered at 6000 to 22000 μm 2 and dispersed at more than 2 σ, and the pore area is The coefficient of variation is greater than 40%. The polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.3 cm or less, the length variation coefficient is 60% or more, and the diameter is the reverse twist area diameter. 30% to 70% of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments is 20.0% to 40.0%. The knitted fabric of the present invention has extremely strong cotton feel, and has good air permeability, bursting strength, water-absorbing quick-drying property and ultraviolet resistance.

Description

聚酯纖維長絲及其生產方法 Polyester fiber filament and production method thereof

本發明涉及一種仿棉針織面料、聚酯纖維長絲及其生產方法,具體涉及一種適合製作T恤的仿棉針織面料及作為其原料使用的聚酯纖維長絲。 The invention relates to a cotton imitation knitted fabric, a polyester fiber filament and a production method thereof, and particularly relates to a cotton imitation knitted fabric suitable for making a T-shirt and a polyester fiber filament used as a raw material thereof.

目前,市場上的針織T恤大多以棉纖維為主,相對化纖T恤來說,具有良好的柔軟性和吸水性兩大優點,但是在使用過程中,棉產品的缺點也逐漸暴露出來,如透氣性與速乾性都比較差等。另外,隨著市場需求量的不斷增加,棉纖維的供給存在一定的壓力,同時棉花的種植容易受氣候的影響,使得棉原材料的供給存在很大的不穩定性。因此,使用化纖代替棉纖維,生產出具有棉的優點、且又能解決棉缺點的仿棉針織面料是非常有必要的。 At present, most of the knitted T-shirts on the market are cotton fibers. Compared with chemical fiber T-shirts, they have two major advantages: good softness and water absorption. However, the shortcomings of cotton products are gradually exposed during use, such as Both the air permeability and the quick-drying property are relatively poor. In addition, with the continuous increase of market demand, there is a certain pressure on the supply of cotton fibers, and at the same time, the cultivation of cotton is easily affected by the climate, which makes the supply of cotton raw materials very unstable. Therefore, it is very necessary to use chemical fiber instead of cotton fiber to produce imitation cotton knitted fabric which has the advantages of cotton and can solve the shortcomings of cotton.

目前,關於仿棉針織面料的研究也是比較多的。如專利文獻CN103898670A中公開了一種仿棉針織面料及其生產方法,通過使用純聚酯纖維短纖紗、聚酯棉短纖紗與彈性纖維進行混編,編成的面料經過高溫鹼減量工序處理,獲得了良好的柔軟感及較強的棉感,大大提高了吸水速乾性,改善了化纖面料在穿著時會產生「悶」的不足,但是高溫鹼減量處理會溶解面料表面的毛羽,降低面料的毛羽感,而且處理溫度高,需要使用燒鹼,不能實現「節能減排」的目的,增加了加工成本;另外,編織所用原材料大部分是 短纖維,會影響面料的透氣性以及破裂強度。 At present, there are many researches on imitation cotton knitted fabrics. For example, patent document CN103898670A discloses a cotton imitation knitted fabric and a method for producing the same. By using pure polyester fiber staple fiber yarn, polyester cotton staple fiber yarn and elastic fiber, the knitted fabric is subjected to a high temperature alkali reduction process. Obtained a good soft feel and strong cotton feel, greatly improved water absorption and quick-drying, and improved the shortage of "suffocation" when wearing chemical fiber fabrics, but high temperature alkali reduction treatment will dissolve the hairiness on the surface of the fabric and reduce the fabric's Hairiness and high processing temperature require the use of caustic soda, which can not achieve the purpose of "energy saving and emission reduction", which increases the processing cost. In addition, most of the raw materials used for weaving are Short fibers will affect the breathability and breaking strength of the fabric.

又如專利文獻CN102517775A中公開了一種提花空氣層超仿棉吸濕發熱針織面料,至少使用由Porel纖維(毛細管聚酯纖維長纖維)和纖維素纖維形成的混紡紗線,且該混紡紗中纖維素纖維的含量為50%至60%,因此所得針織面料仿棉效果及吸水速乾性都非常優越,但是由於所用Porel纖維屬於特殊的功能性纖維,含量相對較高,增加了生產成本。 Another example is disclosed in patent document CN102517775A. A jacquard air layer ultra-cotton moisture-absorbing and heat-generating knitted fabric uses at least a blended yarn formed of Porel fiber (capillary polyester fiber long fiber) and cellulose fiber, and the fibers in the blended yarn The content of plain fiber is 50% to 60%, so the knitting fabric obtained has a superior cotton-like effect and fast water absorption. However, because the used Porel fiber is a special functional fiber, the content is relatively high, which increases the production cost.

另外,目前也有藉由對聚酯纖維長絲假撚加工處理,使紗線具有一定天然纖維風格的技術。如專利文獻CN103603113A中公開了一種藉由對聚酯纖維長絲進行融著假撚而得到手感柔軟且表面具有凹凸感的加工絲,由其製得的面料具有砂礫感、鏤空感,但是由於紗線的假撚方向撚區長度的變異係數過小,所得面料孔隙面積分布均勻,光澤感強,不具有棉製品外觀及手感;又如專利文獻日本特開2000-303287中公開了一種聚酯纖維部分融著絲,假撚方向的撚部、無撚的捲縮部、解撚方向的撚部交替存在,紗線表面基本看不出粗節,光澤感降低,解決了麻感面料的布面不均一性以及粗糙的手感,但是要控制假撚方向的撚部和解撚方向的撚部中間存在無撚的捲縮部比較困難,加工繁瑣、成本高,而且由其製得的面料麻感強,不能具備與棉製品媲美的手感及外觀。 In addition, there are currently technologies for making the yarns have a certain natural fiber style by false-twisting the polyester fiber filaments. For example, patent document CN103603113A discloses a processing yarn obtained by fusing and twisting polyester fiber filaments to obtain a soft-feeling and uneven surface. The fabric produced by the processing yarn has a gravel feeling and a hollow feeling. The coefficient of variation of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction of the thread is too small, the obtained fabric has a uniform pore area distribution, strong gloss, and does not have the appearance and feel of a cotton product; as disclosed in Patent Document Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-303287 The thread is fused, and the twisted portion in the false twist direction, the untwisted crimped portion, and the untwisted direction twisted portion alternately exist. The yarn surface can hardly be rough, and the gloss is reduced, which solves the cloth surface of the hemp fabric. Uniformity and rough feel, but it is difficult to control the untwisted crimped part between the twisted part in the false twist direction and the twisted part in the untwisting direction. The processing is complicated and costly, and the fabric made from it has a strong numbness. Can not have the feel and appearance comparable to cotton products.

針對以上問題,本發明的目的在於提供一種加工簡單、手感柔軟、天然纖維感強的聚酯纖維長絲,以及由其製得的仿棉效果優越且具有良好的透氣性、破裂強度、吸水速乾性以及抗紫外線能力的仿棉針織面料。 In view of the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a polyester fiber filament that is simple to process, soft to the touch, and strong in natural fibers, and a cotton imitation made from the polyester fiber filament, which has superior effects and has good air permeability, breaking strength, and water absorption speed. Cotton-like knitted fabric with dryness and UV resistance.

本發明的技術解決方案: The technical solution of the invention:

本發明的仿棉針織面料,為由包含至少45重量%以上的聚酯纖維長絲的編織原料編織而成的緯編針織物;該面料的孔隙面積分布以6000至22000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,且孔隙面積的變異係數大於40%。 The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric woven from a woven material containing at least 45% by weight of polyester fiber filaments; the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered at 6000 to 22000 μm 2 and dispersed at 2σ Above, and the coefficient of variation of the pore area is greater than 40%.

本發明的聚酯纖維長絲,由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.3cm以下、變異係數為60%以上、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的30%至70%、且該聚酯纖維長絲中假撚方向撚區的總長度為該聚酯纖維長絲總長度的20.0%至40.0%。 The polyester fiber filaments of the present invention are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse twist areas, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.3 cm or less, the coefficient of variation is 60% or more, and the diameter is reverse twist The diameter of the zone is 30% to 70%, and the total length of the false twist direction twist zone in the polyester fiber filament is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament.

本發明的仿棉針織面料的孔隙面積分布與含棉產品一致,具有含棉產品的外觀;同時由於採用聚酯纖維長絲作為主要原料,與短纖維產品相比又具有良好的透氣性(JISL1096-2010標準A法:75至150cm3/cm2/s)及破裂強度(JISL1096-2010標準:700kpa以上);與含棉產品相比具有優越的吸水速乾性(科肯(KEKEN)法:60min後殘留水分率為10%以下);再者,由於本發明所用聚酯纖維長絲的直徑不均一提高了面料的漫反射效果,而且聚酯纖維本身就具有抗紫外線的芳香環分子結構,因此面料的抗紫外性能優良(澳洲標準AS/NZS4399-1996:UPF值為45以上)。本發明的面料尤其適合用於製作T恤等。另外,本發明的聚酯纖維長絲的加工方法簡單易行,手感柔軟,天然纖維感強。 The pore area distribution of the cotton-like imitation knitted fabric of the present invention is consistent with that of cotton-containing products, and has the appearance of cotton-containing products; meanwhile, because polyester fiber filaments are used as the main raw material, it has good air permeability compared with short-fiber products (JISL1096 -2010 Standard A method: 75 to 150cm 3 / cm 2 / s) and rupture strength (JISL1096-2010 standard: 700kpa or more); superior water absorption and quick-drying compared to cotton-containing products (KEKEN method: 60min The residual moisture content is less than 10%); Furthermore, because the uneven diameter of the polyester fiber filaments used in the present invention improves the diffuse reflection effect of the fabric, and the polyester fiber itself has an aromatic ring molecular structure that is resistant to ultraviolet rays, so The fabric has excellent UV resistance (Australian standard AS / NZS4399-1996: UPF value is above 45). The fabric of the present invention is particularly suitable for making T-shirts and the like. In addition, the method for processing the polyester fiber filaments of the present invention is simple, easy to handle, soft to the touch, and strong in natural fibers.

1‧‧‧假撚方向撚區 1‧‧‧ false twist direction twist zone

2‧‧‧反方向撚區 2‧‧‧ reverse twist zone

3‧‧‧假撚方向撚區 3‧‧‧ false twist direction twist zone

4‧‧‧聚酯纖維預取向絲POY 4‧‧‧Polyester pre-oriented yarn POY

5‧‧‧第一羅拉 5‧‧‧ First Rolla

6‧‧‧第一熱箱 6‧‧‧The first hot box

7‧‧‧假撚器 7‧‧‧ false twister

8‧‧‧移動中的紗條 8‧‧‧ Moving sliver

9‧‧‧第二羅拉 9‧‧‧ Second Rolla

10‧‧‧第二熱箱 10‧‧‧Second Hot Box

11‧‧‧第三羅拉 11‧‧‧ Third Rolla

12‧‧‧聚酯纖維長絲 12‧‧‧ polyester filament

13‧‧‧卷取筒 13‧‧‧ take-up tube

圖1是本發明的聚酯纖維長絲的長方向側面形態圖。其中:1 為假撚方向撚區,2為反方向撚區,3為假撚方向撚區。 FIG. 1 is a side view of a polyester fiber filament of the present invention in the longitudinal direction. Of which: 1 It is a false twist direction twist area, 2 is a reverse direction twist area, and 3 is a false twist direction twist area.

圖2是本發明的聚酯纖維長絲的加工流程圖。其中4為聚酯纖維預取向絲POY,5為第一羅拉,6為第一熱箱,7為假撚器,8為移動中的紗條,9為第二羅拉,10為第二熱箱,11為第三羅拉,12為聚酯纖維長絲(加彈加工絲DTY),13為卷取筒。 FIG. 2 is a processing flowchart of the polyester fiber filament of the present invention. Among them, 4 is a polyester fiber pre-oriented yarn POY, 5 is a first roller, 6 is a first heat box, 7 is a false twister, 8 is a moving sliver, 9 is a second roller, and 10 is a second heat box , 11 is a third roller, 12 is a polyester fiber filament (textile-processed yarn DTY), and 13 is a take-up drum.

本發明的針織面料為由包含至少45重量%以上的聚酯纖維長絲的編織原料編織而成的緯編針織物,其孔隙面積分布以6000至22000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,且孔隙面積的變異係數大於40%。 The knitted fabric of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric woven from a weaving raw material containing at least 45% by weight of polyester fiber filaments, and has a pore area distribution centered on 6000 to 22000 μm 2 and dispersed over 2σ, and the pore area The coefficient of variation is greater than 40%.

考慮到化學纖維中聚酯纖維長絲加工簡單、成本低廉;相較於聚酯纖維短纖面料,聚酯纖維長絲面料的透氣性、破裂強度等性能都較為優越,因此作為本發明的編織原料。另外,考慮到緯編組織相較於其他類型的組織具有更好的彈性及柔軟舒適性,因此作為本發明的編織組織。 Considering that polyester fiber filaments in chemical fibers are simple to process and low in cost; compared to polyester fiber staple fiber fabrics, polyester fiber filament fabrics are superior in air permeability and breaking strength, so they are used as the braid of the present invention. raw material. In addition, considering that weft-knitted tissue has better elasticity and softer comfort than other types of tissue, it is used as the knitted fabric of the present invention.

用於本發明的編織原料中,所用聚酯纖維長絲的含量小於45%的話,面料的孔隙減小,透氣性會降低,影響穿著舒適性;而且,不能獲得仿含棉產品的外觀,其孔隙面積的分佈中心不在6000至22000μm2內。 If the content of the polyester fiber filament used in the woven material of the present invention is less than 45%, the pores of the fabric will decrease, the air permeability will decrease, and the wearing comfort will be affected; moreover, the appearance of imitation cotton-containing products cannot be obtained. The distribution center of the pore area is not within 6000 to 22000 μm 2 .

本發明中,面料的孔隙面積分布以6000至22000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,且孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)大於40%,與含棉產品的外觀效果一致。當面料的孔隙面積分布中心小於6000μm2時,說明面料的孔隙變小、緊密程度變大,面料手感過硬而導致棉感降低;此外,面料過於緊密時面料的透氣性減小、彈性 減弱,大大降低了穿著舒適性。當面料的孔隙面積分布中心大於22000μm2時,說明面料的孔隙變大,面料過於疏鬆,無法達到含棉產品的腰骨感、厚實感的要求。如果孔隙面積分散在2σ以內、面料孔隙面積變異係數小於40%的話,說明面料孔隙大小均勻,凹凸感弱,面料的光澤感比較強(即化纖感強),這與含棉產品所具有的低光澤感相違背。 In the present invention, the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered at 6000 to 22000 μm 2 , dispersed over 2σ, and the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is greater than 40%, which is consistent with the appearance effect of cotton-containing products. When the center of the pore area distribution of the fabric is less than 6000 μm 2 , it means that the pores of the fabric become smaller and tighter, and the fabric feels too hard, which results in a decrease in cotton feel. In addition, when the fabric is too tight, the fabric's breathability decreases and the elasticity decreases, greatly Reduced wearing comfort. When the center of the pore area distribution of the fabric is greater than 22000 μm 2 , it means that the pores of the fabric become larger, the fabric is too loose, and it cannot meet the requirements of lumbar bone and thickness of cotton products. If the pore area is dispersed within 2σ and the coefficient of variation of the pore area of the fabric is less than 40%, it means that the pore size of the fabric is uniform, the unevenness is weak, and the gloss of the fabric is relatively strong (that is, the sense of chemical fiber is strong), which is lower than that of cotton-containing products. Gloss is contrary.

為使面料的孔隙分佈更接近於含棉產品,本發明所用聚酯纖維長絲含量較佳為100%。所用的聚酯纖維長絲含量越大,孔隙面積的分佈越不均勻,越能模仿純棉短纖面料的外觀及手感。當然本發明中也可採用如聚酯纖維短纖紗、天然纖維的短纖紗等與本發明所用聚酯纖維長絲交編從而達到仿棉的效果。 In order to make the pore distribution of the fabric closer to the cotton-containing product, the polyester fiber filament content used in the present invention is preferably 100%. The larger the polyester fiber filament content used, the more uneven the pore area distribution, and the more it can mimic the appearance and feel of cotton staple fiber fabrics. Of course, in the present invention, for example, polyester fiber staple fiber yarn, natural fiber staple fiber yarn, and the like can be interwoven with the polyester fiber filament used in the invention to achieve the effect of cotton imitation.

較佳,本發明所用的聚酯纖維長絲,由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.3cm以下、長度變異係數為60%以上、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的30%至70%、且該聚酯纖維長絲中假撚方向撚區的總長度為該聚酯纖維長絲總長度的20.0%至40.0%。這樣的聚酯纖維長絲不但外觀,而且各項性能也與棉紡紗接近。這裡的假撚方向撚區是指紗線的未解撚部分、反方向撚區是指紗線的解撚部分。 Preferably, the polyester fiber filaments used in the present invention are alternately formed by false twist direction twist regions and reverse direction twist regions, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist regions is 0.3 cm or less, the length variation coefficient is 60% or more, The diameter is 30% to 70% of the diameter of the reverse twist zone, and the total length of the false twist direction twist zone in the polyester fiber filament is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. Such polyester fiber filaments not only have an appearance, but also have properties similar to cotton spinning. The false twist direction twist area refers to the untwisted portion of the yarn, and the reverse twist area refers to the untwisted portion of the yarn.

本發明所用的聚酯纖維長絲,如果假撚方向撚區的平均長度大於0.3cm的話,紗線長度方向上假撚方向撚區所占比例增加,紗線相對變細且變硬,雖然由其製得的面料的腰骨感增加,但是手感有變硬的趨勢。 If the average length of the twisted area of the polyester fiber used in the present invention is greater than 0.3 cm in the false twist direction, the proportion of the false twisted direction twist area in the yarn length direction increases, and the yarn is relatively thinner and harder. The lumbar texture of the fabrics produced by the fabrics increased, but the touch tended to harden.

本發明所用的聚酯纖維長絲,如果長度變異係數(C.V)小於60%的話,由其製得的面料的孔隙面積分布有變均勻的趨勢, 有可能出現仿棉效果減弱的現象,難以獲得仿棉外觀。 If the length variation coefficient (C.V) of the polyester fiber filament used in the present invention is less than 60%, the pore area distribution of the fabric made therefrom tends to become uniform, There may be a phenomenon that the effect of cotton imitation is weakened, and it is difficult to obtain the appearance of cotton imitation.

本發明所用的聚酯纖維長絲,假撚方向撚區的直徑占反方向撚區的直徑的比例越小,即假撚方向撚區的直徑與反方向撚區的直徑之差越大,面料孔隙的面積分布越不均勻,面料的外觀越接近於含棉產品;但是,如果假撚方向撚區的直徑占反方向撚區直徑的比例小於30%的話,假撚方向撚區的直徑與反方向撚區直徑差異過大,有可能導致面料的孔隙過大,緻密感下降,影響仿棉效果。如果假撚方向撚區的直徑占反方向撚區直徑的比例大於70%的話,假撚方向撚區的直徑與反方向撚區的直徑的差異不大,有可能導致面料的孔隙分佈過於均勻,影響仿棉的外觀效果;另外,還可能導致紗線的反方向假撚區的直徑變細,使得面料的柔軟度降低。 In the polyester fiber filament used in the present invention, the smaller the ratio of the diameter of the false twist direction twist zone to the diameter of the reverse twist zone, that is, the larger the difference between the diameter of the false twist direction twist zone and the diameter of the reverse twist zone, the larger the fabric. The more uneven the area distribution of the pores, the closer the appearance of the fabric is to cotton-containing products; however, if the ratio of the diameter of the twisted area in the false twist direction to the diameter of the reversed twist area is less than 30%, the diameter of the twisted area in the false twist direction is The diameter difference in the direction twist area is too large, which may cause the fabric to have too large pores, reduce the sense of compactness, and affect the effect of cotton imitation. If the ratio of the diameter of the false twist direction twist zone to the diameter of the reverse twist zone is greater than 70%, the difference between the diameter of the false twist direction twist zone and the diameter of the reverse twist zone is not large, which may cause the fabric's pore distribution to be too uniform. Affects the appearance of imitation cotton; in addition, it may also cause the diameter of the false twisted area in the opposite direction of the yarn to become thinner, making the fabric softer.

另外,本發明所用聚酯纖維長絲,假撚方向撚區的總長度占聚酯纖維長絲總長度的比率越小,越能賦予面料良好的蓬鬆感與柔軟感。如果假撚方向撚區所占比例小於20%的話,雖然面料的蓬鬆感與柔軟感得到提高,但是有可能會出現腰骨感降低的問題,無法達到棉產品的腰骨感與柔軟感的統一;而假撚方向撚區所占比例大於40%的話,面料的腰骨感雖然增加,但是有可能會出現柔軟感降低的問題,同樣無法達到棉產品的腰骨感與柔軟感的統一。 In addition, the smaller the ratio of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments in the false twist direction to the total length of the polyester fiber filaments used in the present invention, the better the fluffy and soft feel of the fabric can be given. If the proportion of the twisted area in the false twist direction is less than 20%, although the fluffy feeling and softness of the fabric are improved, the problem of lower back texture may occur, and the unity of the waist and softness of cotton products cannot be achieved; and If the proportion of the twist area in the false twist direction is greater than 40%, although the lumbar texture of the fabric is increased, there may be a problem that the softness is reduced, and the unity of the lumbar texture and the softness of cotton products may not be achieved.

本發明所用的聚酯纖維長絲的總纖度為56~220dtex。當總纖度小於56dtex時,由其製得的面料的孔隙面積變小、孔隙面積差異降低,而且面料厚度變薄,有可能沒有仿棉外觀效果及手感減弱;而總纖度大於220dtex時,由其製得的面料的孔隙變大,有可能無法獲得如全棉產品般的緻密感,而且面料過於厚 實,仿棉效果欠佳。 The total fineness of the polyester fiber filaments used in the present invention is 56 to 220 dtex. When the total fineness is less than 56 dtex, the pore area of the fabric made from it becomes smaller, the pore area difference is reduced, and the thickness of the fabric is thin, there may be no appearance effect and hand feel of cotton imitation; and when the total fineness is more than 220 dtex, The pores of the obtained fabric become larger, and it may not be as dense as a cotton product, and the fabric is too thick In fact, the effect of imitation cotton is not good.

本發明所用的聚酯纖維長絲的單絲纖度較佳小於1.3dtex。如果單絲纖度大於1.3dtex的話,有可能會影響面料的細膩手感,降低仿棉效果。 The monofilament fineness of the polyester fiber filament used in the present invention is preferably less than 1.3 dtex. If the monofilament fineness is greater than 1.3dtex, it may affect the delicate feel of the fabric and reduce the cotton-like effect.

本發明的面料,由單根上述聚酯纖維長絲編織或者雙根上述聚酯纖維長絲合併後編織再進行精煉、染色、定型等加工而得到,這樣可以保證面料的緻密感與孔隙分佈達成統一。如採用56至100dtex上述聚酯纖維長絲的話,可採用雙根饋入進行編織;又如採用100至220dtex上述聚酯纖維長絲的話,可採用單根饋入進行編織。 The fabric of the present invention is obtained by weaving a single of the above-mentioned polyester fiber filaments or merging two of the above-mentioned polyester fiber filaments, and then knitting and then processing such as refining, dyeing, and shaping, so as to ensure the compactness of the fabric and the pore distribution. Unite. For example, if 56 to 100 dtex of the above-mentioned polyester fiber filaments are used, we can use two feeds for weaving; if we use 100 to 220 dtex of the above-mentioned polyester fiber filaments, we can use single feed for weaving.

為了使得面料的手感更加接近於棉產品,本發明的仿棉針織面料較佳經過起毛加工工程獲得。起毛加工所用設備沒有特別限定,可採用義大利Sperotto砂皮磨毛機,車速5至30m/min、張力0.4至0.6MPa、砂皮目數160至240#。 In order to make the feel of the fabric more similar to that of cotton products, the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably obtained through a fluffing process. The equipment used for raising is not particularly limited. It can use the Italian Sperotto sander sander, with a speed of 5 to 30 m / min, a tension of 0.4 to 0.6 MPa, and a number of sand skins of 160 to 240 #.

較佳,本發明的仿棉針織面料的彎曲剛度(B)為0.015至0.045N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為3至6μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.2至0.8N‧cm/cm2,這些性能均與市場上銷售的全棉T恤面料一致。本發明解決了普通聚酯纖維長絲仿棉面料即便表面粗糙度與含棉產品一樣,彎曲剛度和壓縮比功卻無法達到棉產品要求的技術難點。這裡的彎曲剛度是指面料的剛柔性,表現面料的腰骨感,數值越大面料剛度越大,而棉製品兼具一定的柔軟感和腰骨感;表面粗糙度是指面料表面的平整性,數值小表示面料手感光滑,反之粗糙;壓縮比功是指面料的蓬鬆感,數值越大,則表示面料越蓬鬆。 Preferably, the bending stiffness (B) of the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is 0.015 to 0.045 N‧ cm 2 / cm, the surface roughness (SMD) is 3 to 6 μ, and the compression specific work (WC) is 0.2 to 0.8 N‧ cm / cm 2 , these properties are consistent with the cotton T-shirt fabrics on the market. The invention solves the technical difficulty that the ordinary polyester fiber filament imitation cotton fabric has the same surface roughness as the cotton-containing product, but the bending stiffness and compression specific work cannot meet the requirements of the cotton product. Here, the bending stiffness refers to the rigidity and flexibility of the fabric, which expresses the waist-bone feel of the fabric. The larger the value, the greater the stiffness of the fabric, while the cotton products have a certain softness and lumbar feel; the surface roughness refers to the flatness of the fabric surface. Small means that the fabric feels smooth, otherwise it is rough; Compression specific power refers to the fluffy feeling of the fabric. The larger the value, the more fluffy the fabric.

本發明的仿棉針織面料,編織組織沒有特別限定,為 賦予面料一定的緻密感,可採用平針組織或凹凸組織等,較佳平針組織。 The cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited in terms of the woven structure, and is To give the fabric a certain sense of compactness, a flat needle structure or an uneven structure can be used, and a flat needle structure is preferred.

本發明的聚酯纖維長絲,可以由如下方法製得:將聚酯纖維預取向絲POY,按照附圖2的工序通過第一羅拉後進入第一熱箱加熱,再依次經導入假撚器、第二羅拉、第二熱箱、第三羅拉,得到產品;其中第一熱箱中的溫度為230至250℃;D/Y比為1.5至2.5。前述工序中,進行速度沒有限制,但為方便操作,可較佳為300至500m/min;延伸倍率也沒有限定,但為方便操作,可較佳為1.10至2.00。 The polyester fiber filament of the present invention can be prepared by the following method: the polyester fiber pre-oriented yarn POY is passed through a first roller and heated in a first hot box according to the procedure of FIG. 2, and then sequentially introduced into a false twister , The second roller, the second hot box, and the third roller to obtain a product; wherein the temperature in the first hot box is 230 to 250 ° C; and the D / Y ratio is 1.5 to 2.5. In the foregoing steps, there is no limitation on the speed, but it is preferably 300 to 500 m / min for the convenience of operation; the extension ratio is also not limited, but it is preferably 1.10 to 2.00 for the convenience of operation.

用於前述工序中的聚酯纖維預取向絲POY可藉由本領域已知的方法獲得,例如可以使用市售的聚酯纖維切片原料,進行溶融紡絲來獲得。溶融紡絲的速度可適宜設定,較佳為2500至3500m/min的速度進行。得到的聚酯纖維預取向絲POY的纖度和單絲根數沒有特別限制,但為便於得到適用於本發明的聚酯纖維長絲,聚酯纖維預取向絲POY的纖度較佳為70至280dtex、單絲根數較佳為70至280。 The polyester fiber pre-oriented yarn POY used in the foregoing step can be obtained by a method known in the art, for example, it can be obtained by melt spinning using a commercially available polyester fiber chip material. The speed of melt-spinning can be appropriately set, and is preferably performed at a speed of 2500 to 3500 m / min. The fineness and the number of monofilaments of the obtained polyester fiber pre-oriented yarn POY are not particularly limited, but in order to obtain polyester fiber filaments suitable for the present invention, the fineness of the polyester fiber pre-oriented yarn POY is preferably 70 to 280 dtex. The number of monofilaments is preferably 70 to 280.

在上述加工過程中,當第一熱箱的溫度低於230℃時,雖然假撚方向撚區的平均長度可以控制在0.3cm以下、但其總長度占聚酯纖維長絲總長度的比例會小於20%,由其製得的面料柔軟感得到了提高,腰骨感減弱,無法獲得仿棉的手感;並且,假撚方向撚區占反方向撚區的直徑比例也會小於30%,兩區域的直徑差異變大,這樣雖然可使面料的孔隙面積分布變得更加不均勻,但同時也會導致面料中的部分孔隙面積過大,無法實現與棉產品一樣的緻密感。而如果第一熱箱的溫度高於250℃的話,假撚方向撚區的 平均長度超過0.3cm,而且其總長度占長絲總長的比例也會超過40%,由其製得的面料雖然腰骨感得到提高,但是柔軟度卻大大降低,同樣無法獲得仿棉的手感。如果假撚方向撚區的直徑占反方向撚區的直徑的比例大於70%的話,紗線的反方向假撚區的直徑變小,紗線整體過於僵硬,影響面料的仿棉效果(柔軟度)。 In the above process, when the temperature of the first hot box is lower than 230 ° C, although the average length of the twisted area in the false twist direction can be controlled below 0.3 cm, the proportion of its total length to the total length of the polyester fiber filaments will be Less than 20%, the softness of the fabric made by it is improved, the lumbar bone feel is weakened, and the feel of cotton imitation cannot be obtained; and the diameter ratio of the false twist direction twist area to the reverse direction twist area will be less than 30%. The difference in diameter becomes larger, so that although the pore area distribution of the fabric can be made more uneven, it will also cause some pore areas in the fabric to be too large to achieve the same compactness as cotton products. If the temperature of the first hot box is higher than 250 ° C, the The average length is more than 0.3cm, and the total length of the total length of the filament will exceed 40%. Although the lumbar texture of the fabric made by it is improved, the softness is greatly reduced, and the feel of cotton-like fabric cannot be obtained. If the ratio of the diameter of the twisted area in the false twist direction to the diameter of the reversed twist area is greater than 70%, the diameter of the false twisted area in the reverse direction of the yarn becomes smaller, and the entire yarn is too stiff, which affects the cotton-like effect of the fabric (softness ).

考慮到要獲得仿棉結效果的話,聚酯纖維長絲的假撚方向撚區長度的變異係數(C.V)需要控制在60%以上,因此在加工過程中,D/Y比需要設定為1.5至2.5。這裡的D/Y比是指疊盤的表面速度除以2羅拉表面速度。如果D/Y比小於1.5的話,解撚張力過大,假撚方向撚區被破壞,其長度分佈變得過於均勻,導致變異係數(C.V)過小,當變異係數(C.V)小於60%時,由其製得的面料的孔隙面積分布有變均勻的趨勢,似棉結的效果減弱,有可能無法獲得含棉產品的外觀;而如果D/Y比大於2.5的話,解撚張力過小,紗線品質無法保證。 In order to obtain the neps-like effect, the coefficient of variation (CV) of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction of polyester fiber filaments needs to be controlled above 60%. Therefore, during processing, the D / Y ratio needs to be set to 1.5 to 2.5. The D / Y ratio here is the surface speed of the stack divided by the surface speed of 2 rollers. If the D / Y ratio is less than 1.5, the untwisting tension is too large, the twist area in the false twist direction is destroyed, and the length distribution becomes too uniform, resulting in too small a coefficient of variation (CV). When the coefficient of variation (CV) is less than 60%, the The pore area distribution of the fabrics produced by it has a tendency to become uniform, and the effect of neps-like is weakened, and the appearance of cotton-containing products may not be obtained; and if the D / Y ratio is greater than 2.5, the untwisting tension is too small, and the yarn quality Can not guarantee.

較佳,本發明的聚酯纖維長絲的纖度為56至220dtex。如果纖度小於56dtex的話,也就是說所用原料絲比較細,在第一熱箱假撚過程中,原料絲過細可能會產生過度的融著假撚現象,導致解撚過程中反方向撚區難以解撚,使其直徑變小,假撚方向撚區與反方向撚區的直徑差異變小,由其形成的面料的孔隙面積變小、且孔隙的面積差異有變不明顯的傾向,有可能難以獲得含棉產品的外觀;另外,還有可能會導致假撚方向撚區的平均長度大於0.3cm、其總長度在長絲總長度上所占的比例高於40%,這樣的聚酯纖維長絲手感會比較硬,由其形成的面料雖然腰骨感得到了提高,但是卻難以獲得如含棉產品般的柔軟感。如果纖度大於220dtex 的話,也就是所用原料絲比較粗,在第一熱箱假撚過程中,原料絲過粗可能會產生未充分融著的現象,這樣一來反方向假撚區的直徑就會相對變大,而假撚方向撚區的直徑占反方向撚區的直徑的比例可能會小於30%,那麼兩區域的直徑差異就變大了,由其形成的面料的孔隙面積也就變大,如含棉產品般的緻密感有下降的趨勢;另外,還有可能使假撚方向撚區的總長度在長絲總長度上所占的比例小於20%,由其製得的面料難以獲得含棉產品的腰骨感。 Preferably, the fineness of the polyester fiber filaments of the present invention is 56 to 220 dtex. If the fineness is less than 56dtex, that is to say, the raw material yarn used is relatively thin. During the first hot box false twisting process, the excessively thin raw material yarn may cause excessive fusion and false twisting, which makes it difficult to unravel the twisted area in the reverse direction during the untwisting process. Twist to make the diameter smaller, the diameter difference between the false twist direction twist area and the reverse twist area becomes smaller, the pore area of the fabric formed by it becomes smaller, and the difference in pore area tends to become inconspicuous, which may be difficult Obtain the appearance of cotton-containing products; in addition, it may cause the average length of the twisted area in the false twist direction to be greater than 0.3 cm, and the total length of the total length of the filaments to be greater than 40%. The silk feel will be relatively hard. Although the waist-bone feel of the fabric formed by it is improved, it is difficult to obtain a soft feel like cotton products. If the fineness is greater than 220dtex If the raw yarn used is relatively thick, in the first hot box false twisting process, the raw yarn may be too thick, which may cause insufficient fusion. In this way, the diameter of the false twist zone in the reverse direction will be relatively large. The ratio of the diameter of the false twist direction twist zone to the diameter of the reverse twist zone may be less than 30%, then the diameter difference between the two regions becomes larger, and the pore area of the fabric formed by it becomes larger, such as cotton Product-like compactness tends to decrease; in addition, it is possible to make the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction less than 20% of the total filament length, and it is difficult for fabrics made from it to obtain lumbar bones containing cotton products sense.

同時,較佳本發明的聚酯纖維長絲的單絲纖度為1.30dtex以下。當第一熱箱溫度設定為230至250℃、D/Y比設定為1.5至2.5時,如果最終產品聚酯纖維長絲的單絲纖度大於1.30dtex的話,原料絲的單絲纖度也就比較大,藉由上述加工條件製得的聚酯纖維長絲外觀等與棉紗接近,由其製得的面料的孔隙分佈也與含棉產品相近,但是由於單絲纖度相對比較高,可能含棉產品的細膩感難以獲得。 Meanwhile, it is preferable that the monofilament fineness of the polyester fiber filaments of the present invention is 1.30 dtex or less. When the first hot box temperature is set to 230 to 250 ° C and the D / Y ratio is set to 1.5 to 2.5, if the monofilament fineness of the polyester fiber filament of the final product is greater than 1.30 dtex, the monofilament fineness of the raw filament is also compared. Large, the appearance of polyester fiber filaments produced under the above processing conditions is close to that of cotton yarns, and the pore distribution of fabrics made from them is similar to that of cotton-containing products, but because the monofilament is relatively high, cotton products may be included The delicate feeling is difficult to obtain.

[實施例] [Example]

本發明中所涉及的各參數的測試方法如下: The test methods of the parameters involved in the present invention are as follows:

(1)面料的孔隙面積的標準方差及孔隙面積分布中心值 (1) The standard deviation of the pore area of the fabric and the center value of the pore area distribution

①準備樣品:從面料上剪取尺寸為20cm×20cm、表面平整的樣布;②在數位顯微鏡(KEYENCE公司)50倍鏡頭下拍攝樣品的布面照片,(a)藉由旋轉控制板上的亮度旋鈕在1/3至2/3之間調節樣品的亮度。小於1/3時,曝光率過小,樣品的照片過於昏暗,樣品上的孔隙無法識別;大於2/3時,曝光率過大,同樣樣品上的孔隙也無 法識別;(b)鏡頭調至50倍,並藉由旋轉XY平臺或控制板上的對焦旋鈕調整樣品的清晰度,確保樣品上孔隙清楚。鏡頭的倍率過小時,樣品孔隙的外觀面積過小,影響下一步亮度抽取孔隙面積的精度;而鏡頭倍率過高時,所拍攝的樣品照片的總面積過小,孔隙的個數少,影響孔隙面積的實際分佈精度;(c)保存圖片,所得圖片中所呈現的面料的面積約為3.6×107μm2;③利用KEYENCE公司提供VHX-2000/Ver2.35軟體的自動測量面積功能中的亮度抽取方法;(a)點擊自動測量面積按鈕;(b)選中亮度抽取方法,抽取樣品照片的亮度區域圖;(c)選中介面中的「暗」選項,得到照片中的孔隙圖;(d)調節閾值使樣品的孔隙正好被覆蓋,閾值的範圍為-80至+80;閾值過小或過大都無法使樣品的實際孔隙大小正好被覆蓋,閾值過小時,測量的孔隙面積比實際的面積要小;過大時,則測量的孔隙面積比實際面積要大;(e)最後點擊「下一步」得到樣品孔隙的面積資料,保存資料。並記錄樣品孔隙面積的標準方差σ及孔隙面積分布中心值μ(單位:μm2)。 ①Preparing the sample: Cut a 20cm × 20cm sample with a flat surface from the fabric; ② Take a photo of the sample's cloth under a digital microscope (KEYENCE) 50x lens. (A) Rotate the control panel. The brightness knob adjusts the brightness of the sample between 1/3 and 2/3. When less than 1/3, the exposure rate is too small, and the sample photo is too dark, and the pores on the sample cannot be identified; when it is greater than 2/3, the exposure rate is too large, and the pores on the same sample cannot be identified; (b) the lens is adjusted to 50 times , And adjust the sharpness of the sample by rotating the focus knob on the XY stage or control board to ensure that the pores on the sample are clear. When the lens magnification is too small, the appearance area of the sample pores is too small, which affects the accuracy of the next extraction of the pore area. When the lens magnification is too high, the total area of the sample photo taken is too small, and the number of pores is small, affecting the pore area. Actual distribution accuracy; (c) Save the picture, the area of the fabric presented in the picture is about 3.6 × 10 7 μm 2 ; ③ Use the brightness extraction in the automatic area measurement function provided by KEYENCE company VHX-2000 / Ver2.35 software Method; (a) click the automatic measurement area button; (b) select the brightness extraction method to extract the brightness area map of the sample photo; (c) select the "dark" option in the interface to get the pore map in the photo; (d) ) Adjust the threshold so that the pores of the sample are covered exactly. The range of the threshold is -80 to +80. If the threshold is too small or too large, the actual pore size of the sample is not covered. If the threshold is too small, the measured pore area is larger than the actual area. When it is too large, the measured pore area is larger than the actual area; (e) Finally, click "Next" to get the pore area data of the sample and save the data. The standard deviation σ of the pore area of the sample and the central value of the pore area distribution μ (unit: μm 2 ) are recorded.

(2)變異係數 (2) Coefficient of variation

①面料孔隙面積的變異係數:孔隙面積的標準方差σ÷孔隙面積分布中心值μ×100%。 ②聚酯纖維長絲假撚方向撚區長度的變異係數:假撚方向撚區長度的變異係數=假撚方向撚區長度的標準方差σ÷假撚方向撚區長度的平均值μ×100%。 ① Coefficient of variation of fabric pore area: standard deviation of pore area σ ÷ central value of pore area distribution μ × 100%. ② Coefficient of variation of the length of the twist zone of the polyester fiber filament in the false twist direction: The coefficient of variation of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction = the standard deviation of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction σ ÷ average value of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction μ × 100% .

其中,隨機選取50cm的聚酯纖維長絲,然後測出20組假撚方向撚區的長度,最後計算出標準方差σ及長度平均值μ(測試方法參照下文的「(7)聚酯纖維長絲上假撚方向撚區的長度占聚酯纖維長絲總長度的比例」)。 Among them, 50 cm polyester filaments were randomly selected, and then the lengths of the 20 twisted areas in the false twist direction were measured. Finally, the standard deviation σ and the average length μ were calculated (for the test method, see "(7) Polyester fiber length below" The ratio of the length of the twisted area in the false twist direction on the yarn to the total length of the polyester fiber filaments ").

(3)彎曲剛度 (3) Bending stiffness

根據KES FB2法。(KES織物風格儀是由日本京都大學教授川端季雄博士設計製造的織物風格儀,其中FB2是彎曲性能測試儀。) According to the KES FB2 method. (KES fabric style instrument is a fabric style instrument designed and manufactured by Dr. Kawabata Professor of Kyoto University, Japan, of which FB2 is a bending performance tester.)

(4)表面粗糙度 (4) Surface roughness

根據KES FB4法。(KES織物風格儀是由日本京都大學教授川端季雄博士設計製造的織物風格儀,其中FB4是摩擦及表面粗糙度測試儀。) According to the KES FB4 method. (KES fabric style meter is a fabric style meter designed and manufactured by Dr. Kawabata Professor of Kyoto University in Japan, of which FB4 is a friction and surface roughness tester.)

(5)壓縮比功 (5) Compression ratio work

根據KES FB3法。(KES織物風格儀是由日本京都大學教授川端季雄博士設計製造的織物風格儀,其中FB3是壓縮性能及厚度測試儀。) According to the KES FB3 method. (KES fabric style meter is a fabric style meter designed and manufactured by Dr. Kawabata Professor of Kyoto University in Japan, of which FB3 is a compression performance and thickness tester.)

(6)聚酯纖維長絲上假撚方向撚區的直徑占反方向撚區直徑的比例 (6) The ratio of the diameter of the twist zone in the false twist direction to the diameter of the twist zone in the reverse direction on the polyester fiber filament

從面料中隨機抽取選取5根20cm的本發明的聚酯纖維長絲,利用KEYENCE公司的數位顯微鏡,50倍鏡頭下使用KEYENCE數位系統的測量工具測量每根聚酯纖維長絲上假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區的直徑。每根聚酯纖維長絲測量5組資料並計算每根的比值平均值,5根都測量好後再計算總比值平均值。 Five 20 cm polyester filaments of the present invention were randomly selected from the fabric. Using a digital microscope from KEYENCE, a measuring tool of KEYENCE digital system was used under a 50x lens to measure the false twist direction of each polyester filament. Zone and reverse twist zone diameter. Five sets of data were measured for each polyester filament and the average value of the ratio of each was calculated. After all five were measured, the average value of the total ratio was calculated.

(7)聚酯纖維長絲上假撚方向撚區的長度占聚酯纖維長絲總長度的比例 (7) Proportion of the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction on the polyester fiber filament to the total length of the polyester fiber filament

從面料中隨機抽取選取5根50cm的本發明的聚酯纖維長絲,對每根長絲分別加以0.1g/D的張力,再利用EIB-E(勞森-海默菲爾公司的型號LAWSON-HEMPHILL)測量長絲上假撚方向撚區的長度,每根聚酯纖維長絲測量5組資料並計算每根的長度比例平均值,5根都測量好後再計算最終的長度比例平均值。 Five polyester filaments of the present invention were randomly selected from the fabric and 50 cm, and each filament was tensioned at 0.1 g / D, and then EIB-E (Lawson-Hermerfeld model LAWSON) was used. -HEMPHILL) to measure the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction on the filament. Each polyester fiber filament is measured with 5 sets of data and the average length ratio of each is calculated. After the 5 are measured, the final average length ratio is calculated. .

(8)聚酯纖維長絲的柔軟度 (8) Softness of polyester filament

經由20人進行感觀評價,按照長絲的柔軟程度分為優、良、中、差4個等級。其中,大於或等於15人認為長絲柔軟則為優、10至14人則為良、5至10為中、少於5人則為差。 According to 20 people's sensory evaluation, according to the softness of the filament, it was divided into 4 grades of excellent, good, medium and poor. Among them, 15 or more people thought that the filament was soft, which was excellent, 10 to 14 people were good, 5 to 10 were medium, and less than 5 people were poor.

下面結合實施例及比較例對本發明作進一步的描述。 The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples and comparative examples.

[實施例1] [Example 1]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and a single filament number of 144; and then The process in FIG. 2 is false twisted under the conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9. The fineness is 100 dtex, the number of filaments is 144, Polyester filament with a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.13cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為78%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的43%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的31.3%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.13 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The diameter is 43%, and the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 31.3% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例2] [Example 2]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為252dtex、單絲根數為278的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為200dtex、單絲根數為278、單絲纖度為0.72dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 252dtex and a single filament number of 278; and then The process in FIG. 2 is subjected to false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a fineness of 200 dtex and a number of filaments of 278. Polyester filament with a monofilament fineness of 0.72 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.10cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為78%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的40%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的22.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.10 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The diameter is 40%, and the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 22.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例3] [Example 3]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為71dtex、單絲根數為78的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為56dtex、單絲根數為78、單絲纖度為0.72dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected, and melt spinning was performed at a speed of 2800m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 71 dtex and a number of single filaments of 78; and then The process shown in FIG. 2 is false-twisted under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9. A fineness of 56 dtex and a number of filaments of 78 are obtained. Polyester filament with a monofilament fineness of 0.72 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.18cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為79%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的55%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的35.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.18 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 79%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The diameter is 55%, and the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 35.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例4] [Example 4]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、 單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為232℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected, and melt spinning was performed at a speed of 2800m / min to obtain a fineness of 128dtex, Polyester fiber POY with 144 monofilaments; then, according to the procedure of FIG. 2, the processing conditions are 400 m / min, the first hot box temperature is 232 ° C., the stretching ratio is 1.26, and the D / Y ratio is 1.9. Twisting was performed to obtain a polyester fiber filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.10cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為77%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑39%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的21.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.10 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 77%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The total length of the 39% diameter and false twist direction twist zone is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例5] [Example 5]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為245℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected, and melt spinning was performed at a speed of 2800m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128dtex and a number of single filaments of 144; and then according to the figure Step 2 is false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 245 ° C, an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, Polyester filament with a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.25cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為78%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的54%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的38.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.25 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The diameter is 54%, and the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例6] [Example 6]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.6 的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and a single filament number of 144; and then The process of FIG. 2 uses a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, an extension ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.6. Twisting processing was performed under the processing conditions to obtain polyester fiber filaments having a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of monofilaments of 144, and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.25cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為61%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的56%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的38.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.25 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 61%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The total length of 56% of the diameter and the length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例7] [Example 7]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為2.3的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and a single filament number of 144; and then The process shown in FIG. 2 is false-twisted under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 2.3. The fineness is 100 dtex and the number of filaments is 144. Polyester filaments with a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.10cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為90%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑38%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的21.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.10 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 90%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The total length of the 38% diameter and false twist direction twist zone is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例8] [Example 8]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為169dtex、單絲根數為96的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為134dtex、單絲根數為96、單絲纖度為1.40dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 169dtex and a number of monofilaments of 96; and then The process in FIG. 2 is subjected to false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a fineness of 134 dtex and a number of filaments of 96. Polyester filaments with a monofilament fineness of 1.40 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.12cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為79%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的40%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的28.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist regions and reverse direction twist regions. The average length of the false twist direction twist regions is 0.12 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 79%, and the diameter is the reverse twist region. The diameter is 40%, and the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 28.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[比較例1] [Comparative Example 1]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為40dtex、單絲根數為36的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為28dtex、單絲根數為36、單絲纖度為0.78dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 40 dtex and a number of 36 monofilaments; and then The process in FIG. 2 is subjected to false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a fineness of 28 dtex and a number of filaments of 36. Polyester filament with a monofilament fineness of 0.78 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.31cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為78%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑80%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的42.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.31 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The total length of the twist zone in the diameter of 80% and the false twist direction is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments. See Table 1 for details.

[比較例2] [Comparative Example 2]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為410dtex、單絲根數為288的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為250dtex、單絲根數為288、單絲纖度為0.87dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 410dtex and a number of 288 monofilaments; and then The process in FIG. 2 is subjected to false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a fineness of 250 dtex and a number of filaments of 288. Polyester filament with a monofilament fineness of 0.87 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.08cm、長度變異係數 (C.V)為79%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的28%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的18.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist regions and reverse direction twist regions, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist regions is 0.08 cm and the length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, the diameter is 28% of the diameter of the reverse twist zone, and the total length of the false twist direction twist zone is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[比較例3] [Comparative Example 3]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為252℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and a single filament number of 144; and then The process in FIG. 2 is false twisted under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 252 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9. A fineness of 100 dtex and a number of filaments of 144 are obtained. Polyester filaments with a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維假撚長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.35cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為79%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的78%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的42.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber false-twisted filaments are formed alternately in the false-twist direction twist zone and the reverse-direction twist zone. The average length of the false-twist direction twist zone is 0.35 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 79%, and the diameter is the reverse direction. The diameter of the twist zone is 78%, and the total length of the twist zone in the false twist direction is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[比較例4] [Comparative Example 4]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為225℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.9的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and a single filament number of 144; and then The process in FIG. 2 is subjected to false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 225 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.9 to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex and a number of filaments of 144. Polyester filaments with a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.06cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為80%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的26%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的18.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.06 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 80%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. The diameter is 26%, and the total length of the twisted area in the false twist direction is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. See Table 1 for details.

[比較例5] [Comparative Example 5]

選用聚酯纖維切片原料(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製),並以2800m/min的速度進行溶融紡絲,得到纖度為128dtex、單絲根數為144的聚酯纖維POY;然後按照圖2的工序以速度為400m/min、第一熱箱溫度為238℃、延伸倍率為1.26、D/Y比為1.3的加工條件進行假撚加工,得到纖度為100dtex、單絲根數為144、單絲纖度為0.69dtex的聚酯纖維長絲。 Polyester fiber chip raw materials (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) were selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m / min to obtain a polyester fiber POY with a fineness of 128 dtex and a single filament number of 144; and then The process in FIG. 2 is subjected to false twist processing under processing conditions of a speed of 400 m / min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C., an elongation ratio of 1.26, and a D / Y ratio of 1.3 to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex and a number of filaments of 144. Polyester filaments with a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.

所得聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.38cm、長度變異係數(C.V)為55%、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的68%、假撚方向撚區的總長度為聚酯纖維長絲總長度的55.0%,具體見表1。 The obtained polyester fiber filaments are alternately formed by false twist direction twist areas and reverse direction twist areas. The average length of the false twist direction twist areas is 0.38 cm, the length variation coefficient (CV) is 55%, and the diameter is the reverse twist area. 68% of the diameter and the total length of the twist zone in the false twist direction are 55.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filaments. See Table 1 for details.

[實施例9] [Example 9]

選用55重量%的56dtex-78f的普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與45重量%的實施例3的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72秒)、起毛加工,得到本發明的仿棉針織面料。 55% by weight of 56 dtex-78f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester fiber filament of Example 3 were used in a single-sided circular knitting machine. The plain fabric was knitted with a flat needle to obtain a grey fabric, and then the fabric was refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), shaped (160 ° C × 72 seconds), and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以6000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為41%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.025N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為4.1μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.35N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 6000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 41%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.025N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 4.1μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.35N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[實施例10] [Example 10]

選用55重量%的200dtex-278f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與45重量%的實施例2的聚 酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到本發明的仿棉針織面料。 55% by weight of 200dtex-278f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polymer of Example 2 were selected. Ester fiber filaments were knitted on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), shaped (160 ° C × 72S), and fluffed to obtain the present invention. Cotton-knit fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以15000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為47%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.015N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為3.0μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.80N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered on 15000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 47%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.015N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 3.0 μ, compression specific work (WC) was 0.80N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[實施例11] [Example 11]

選用35重量%的100dtex-144f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與65重量%的實施例7的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)得到本發明的仿棉針織面料。 35% by weight of 100dtex-144f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65% by weight of the polyester fiber filament of Example 7 were used on a single-sided circular knitting machine. The plain fabric is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, which is then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), and shaped (160 ° C × 72S) to obtain the cotton imitation knitted fabric of the present invention.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以14000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為51%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.024N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為3.8μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.75N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 14000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 51%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.024N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 3.8 μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.75N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[實施例12] [Example 12]

選用35重量%的100dtex-144f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與65重量%的實施例6的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)得到本發明的仿棉針織面料。 35% by weight of 100dtex-144f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65% by weight of the polyester fiber of Example 6 were used on a single-sided circular knitting machine. The plain fabric is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, which is then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), and shaped (160 ° C × 72S) to obtain the cotton imitation knitted fabric of the present invention.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以13000μm2為中心、分散 在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為48%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.034N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為4.9μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.30N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 13000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 48%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.034N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 4.9 μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.30N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[實施例13] [Example 13]

選用100重量%的實施例3的聚酯纖維長絲,通過雙紗合併的形式,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到本發明的仿棉針織面料。 100% by weight of the polyester fiber filaments of Example 3 were used to form a grey fabric by weaving with flat needles on a single-sided circular knitting machine in the form of double yarn combining, and then refining (80 ° C × 20min) and dyeing (98 ° C × 30min), setting (160 ° C × 72S), and fuzzing to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以6900μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為58%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.045N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為6.0μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.20N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 6900 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ, the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 58%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.045N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 6.0 μ and compression specific work (WC) of 0.20 N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[實施例14] [Example 14]

選用100重量%的實施例2的聚酯纖維長絲,天竺組織在單面圓編機上編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到本發明的仿棉針織面料。 100% by weight of the polyester fiber filament of Example 2 was used, and the tianzhu tissue was woven on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, which was then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyeed (98 ° C × 30min), and shaped (160 ° C). × 72S) and raising processing to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以22000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為63%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.037N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為5.1μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.50N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric was centered at 22000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area was 63%, the bending stiffness (B) was 0.037 N · cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) was 5.1μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.50N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[實施例15] [Example 15]

選用100重量%的實施例8的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染 色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉針織面料。 100% by weight of the polyester fiber filaments of Example 8 were used to knit on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, which was then refined (80 ° C × 20min) and dyed. Color (98 ℃ × 30min), setting (160 ℃ × 72S), and fluffing process to obtain imitation cotton knitted fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以19000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為64%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.046N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為6.3μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.48N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric was centered at 19000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area was 64%, the bending stiffness (B) was 0.046 N · cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) was 6.3 μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.48N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[比較例6] [Comparative Example 6]

選用60重量%的56dtex-78f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與40重量%的實施例3的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉針織面料。 60% by weight of 56dtex-78f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 40% by weight of the polyester fiber filament of Example 3 were selected on a single-sided circular knitting machine. Plain fabric is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, which is then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), shaped (160 ° C × 72S), and raised to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以4600μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為30%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.012N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為2.1μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.36N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 4600 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ, the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 30%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.012N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 2.1μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.36N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[比較例7] [Comparative Example 7]

選用60重量%的200dtex-278f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與40重量%的實施例2的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉針織面料。 60% by weight of 200dtex-278f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 40% by weight of the polyester fiber of Example 2 were used on a single-sided circular knitting machine. Plain fabric is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, which is then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), shaped (160 ° C × 72S), and raised to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以12000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為35%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.008N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為1.8μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.85N ‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 12000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 35%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.008N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 1.8 μ and compression specific work (WC) of 0.85N ‧ cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[比較例8] [Comparative Example 8]

選用55重量%的28dtex-36f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與45重量%的比較例1的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)得到仿棉針織面料。 55% by weight of 28dtex-36f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of polyester fiber filament of Comparative Example 1 were used on a single-sided circular knitting machine The plain fabric is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, which is then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), and shaped (160 ° C × 72S) to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以4200μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為27%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.030N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為5.0μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.18N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric was centered at 4200 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area was 27%, the bending stiffness (B) was 0.030 N · cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) was 5.0 μ and compression specific work (WC) of 0.18 N · cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[比較例9] [Comparative Example 9]

選用55重量%的250dtex-288f普通聚酯纖維假撚加工紗(東麗合成纖維(南通)有限公司製)與45重量%的比較例2的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉針織面料。 55% by weight of 250dtex-288f ordinary polyester fiber false twist processing yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of polyester fiber filament of Comparative Example 2 were used on a single-sided circular knitting machine Plain fabric is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, which is then refined (80 ° C × 20min), dyed (98 ° C × 30min), shaped (160 ° C × 72S), and raised to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以25000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為51%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.007N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為1.6μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.90N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric was centered at 25000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area was 51%, the bending stiffness (B) was 0.007N‧cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) was 1.6 μ and compression specific work (WC) was 0.90 N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

[比較例10] [Comparative Example 10]

選用100重量%的比較例6的聚酯纖維長絲,在單面圓編機上平針組織編織得到坯布,然後進行精煉(80℃×20min)、染 色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72秒)、起毛加工得到仿棉針織面料。 100% by weight of the polyester fiber filaments of Comparative Example 6 were used to knit on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, which was then refined (80 ° C × 20min) and dyed. Color (98 ° C × 30min), setting (160 ° C × 72 seconds), and fluffing processing to obtain imitation cotton knitted fabric.

所得面料的孔隙面積分布以8000μm2為中心、分散在2σ以上,孔隙面積的變異係數(C.V)為25%,彎曲剛度(B)為0.050N‧cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)為7.1μ、壓縮比功(WC)為0.15N‧cm/cm2。所得面料各性能參數見表2。 The pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 8000 μm 2 and dispersed above 2σ. The coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 25%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.050 N‧ cm 2 / cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 7.1 μ, compression specific work (WC) is 0.15N‧cm / cm 2 . The performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.

由表1可知 Can be known from Table 1

(1)由實施例1、實施例2與實施例3可以看出,總纖度越高,假撚方向撚區的平均長度越短,在長絲上所占比例越少,而且與反方向撚區的直徑比越小,但長度變異係數基本不變。 (1) It can be seen from Example 1, Example 2 and Example 3 that the higher the total fineness, the shorter the average length of the twisted area in the false twist direction, the smaller the proportion of the filament, and the twisted direction The smaller the diameter ratio of the zone, but the coefficient of variation of length is basically unchanged.

(2)由實施例1、實施例4與實施例5可以看出,對同樣的聚酯纖維POY採用相同假撚速度、延伸倍率及D/Y比加工時,第一熱箱溫度越高,所得聚酯纖維長絲的假撚方向撚區的平均長度相對變長,在長絲上所占比例變多,與反方向撚區的直徑比變大,但長度變異係數相接近。 (2) As can be seen from Example 1, Example 4, and Example 5, when the same polyester fiber POY is processed with the same false twist speed, stretch ratio, and D / Y ratio, the higher the temperature of the first hot box, The average length of the twisted region in the false twist direction of the obtained polyester fiber filament was relatively long, and the proportion of the yarn on the filament increased, which was larger than the diameter ratio of the twisted region in the reverse direction, but the length variation coefficient was close.

(3)由實施例1、實施例6與實施例7可以看出,對同樣的聚酯纖維POY採用相同假撚速度、第一熱箱溫度及延伸倍率加工時,D/Y比越高,所得聚酯纖維長絲的假撚方向撚區的平均長度越小,在長絲上所占比例越少,與反方向撚區的直徑比越小,長度變異係數越大,紗線越柔軟。 (3) It can be seen from Example 1, Example 6, and Example 7 that when the same polyester fiber POY is processed with the same false twist speed, the first hot box temperature, and the draw ratio, the higher the D / Y ratio, The smaller the average length of the twisted area in the false twist direction of the obtained polyester fiber filament, the smaller the proportion of the yarn on the filament, and the smaller the diameter ratio to the twisted area in the reverse direction, the larger the coefficient of variation in length and the softer the yarn.

(4)由實施例8可以看出,單絲纖度超過1.3dtex時,雖然紗線外觀、各項性能指標與棉紡紗接近,但紗線手感變差。 (4) As can be seen from Example 8, when the monofilament fineness exceeds 1.3 dtex, although the yarn appearance and various performance indexes are close to those of cotton spinning, the yarn feel becomes worse.

(5)由比較例1、比較例2可以看出,聚酯纖維長絲總纖度過小或者過大時,並不能獲得與棉紡紗相近的外觀及性能;過小會形成聚酯纖維全僵紗,過大則變成普通聚酯纖維假撚紗。 (5) As can be seen from Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, when the total fineness of the polyester fiber filaments is too small or too large, the appearance and performance similar to that of cotton spinning cannot be obtained; too small a polyester fiber full stiff yarn may be formed. If it is too large, it will become ordinary polyester fiber false twisted yarn.

(6)由比較例3可以看出,當第一熱箱溫度超過250℃時,紗線全僵,硬;由比較例4可以看出第一熱箱溫度低於230℃時,紗線過於蓬鬆,接近普通聚酯纖維假撚紗。 (6) It can be seen from Comparative Example 3 that when the first hot box temperature exceeds 250 ° C, the yarn is completely stiff and hard; from Comparative Example 4, it can be seen that when the first hot box temperature is lower than 230 ° C, the yarn is excessive. Fluffy, close to ordinary polyester fiber false twisted yarn.

(7)由比較例5可以看出,當D/Y比小於1.5時,不能獲得與棉紡紗相近的外觀及性能,紗線僵硬。 (7) As can be seen from Comparative Example 5, when the D / Y ratio is less than 1.5, the appearance and performance similar to cotton spinning cannot be obtained, and the yarn is stiff.

由表2可知: From Table 2:

(1)由實施例9和實施例13、實施例10和實施例14可以看出,相同纖度下,紗線2的含量增加,面料的孔隙面積變大、孔隙面積分布變異係數變大;彎曲剛度變大、表面粗糙度變大、壓縮比功變小,即仿棉效果變強。 (1) It can be seen from Example 9 and Example 13, Example 10 and Example 14 that at the same fineness, the content of yarn 2 increases, the pore area of the fabric becomes larger, and the pore area distribution coefficient of variation becomes larger; bending The stiffness becomes larger, the surface roughness becomes larger, and the compression specific work becomes smaller, that is, the effect of cotton imitation becomes stronger.

(2)由實施例11和實施例12可以看出,紗線2直徑比越小、假撚方向撚區長度的變異係數越大,面料的孔隙越大,面料的孔隙面積的變異係數越大即分佈越不均勻;另外,假撚方向撚區長度變短、所占比例變少,面料的柔軟性增加,彎曲剛度減小、表面粗糙度減小、壓縮比功增大即蓬鬆度增加。 (2) As can be seen from Example 11 and Example 12, the smaller the diameter ratio of yarn 2 and the larger the coefficient of variation of the length of the twisted area in the false twist direction, the larger the porosity of the fabric, and the larger the coefficient of variation of the pore area of the fabric. That is, the more uneven the distribution; in addition, the length of the twist zone in the false twist direction becomes shorter and the proportion becomes smaller. The softness of the fabric increases, the bending stiffness decreases, the surface roughness decreases, and the compression specific work increases, that is, the bulkiness increases.

(3)由實施例9和實施例10可以看出,紗線2纖度越大、直徑比越小、面料的孔隙面積越大,孔隙面積變異係數越大即分佈越不均勻;假撚方向撚區的平均長度越短、所占比例越小,面料的彎曲剛度越小,表面粗糙度越小,而壓縮比功越小即蓬鬆度越大。 (3) It can be seen from Example 9 and Example 10 that the larger the fineness of the yarn 2, the smaller the diameter ratio, the larger the pore area of the fabric, and the larger the coefficient of variation of the pore area, the more uneven the distribution; The shorter the average length of the zone and the smaller the proportion, the smaller the bending stiffness of the fabric, the smaller the surface roughness, and the smaller the compression specific work, that is, the larger the bulk.

(4)由實施例15可以看出,雖然面料的孔隙分佈接近含棉產品,但是由於紗線2的單絲纖度超過1.3dtex,面料表面粗糙度比較大,影響了仿棉效果。 (4) It can be seen from Example 15 that although the pore distribution of the fabric is close to that of cotton-containing products, since the monofilament fineness of yarn 2 exceeds 1.3 dtex, the surface roughness of the fabric is relatively large, which affects the effect of cotton imitation.

(5)由比較例6和比較例7可以看出,紗線2的含量低於45%時,不能獲得與含棉產品一致的孔隙面積的變異係數,因此不具備棉產品的外觀。 (5) As can be seen from Comparative Examples 6 and 7, when the content of yarn 2 is less than 45%, the coefficient of variation of the pore area consistent with that of the cotton-containing product cannot be obtained, and therefore the appearance of the cotton product is not provided.

(6)由比較例8可以看出,由於所用紗線2為普通聚酯纖維全僵紗,導致面料無法獲得與含棉產品一致的外觀(孔隙面積及孔隙面積變異係數過小);而且面料蓬鬆度過小,無棉產品般的柔軟感。 (6) As can be seen from Comparative Example 8, because the used yarn 2 is a full-stiff yarn of ordinary polyester fiber, the fabric cannot obtain the same appearance as the cotton-containing product (the pore area and the coefficient of variation of the pore area are too small); and the fabric is fluffy Spend a small, cotton-free product.

(7)由比較例9可以看出,所用紗線2接近普通聚酯纖維假撚紗 導致面料的孔隙面積過大,無棉產品的緻密感;而且面料的彎曲剛度不足,無棉產品的腰骨感。 (7) As can be seen from Comparative Example 9, the used yarn 2 is close to the ordinary polyester false-twisted yarn. As a result, the pore area of the fabric is too large, and the compactness of the cotton-free product is insufficient; and the bending rigidity of the fabric is insufficient, and the lumbar texture of the cotton-free product is insufficient.

(8)由比較例10可以看出,由於所用紗線2不具有與棉紡紗相近的外觀及性能,所以面料的孔隙分佈過於均勻,無棉產品的外觀;而且彎曲剛度過大,無棉產品的柔軟感。 (8) As can be seen from Comparative Example 10, because the used yarn 2 does not have the appearance and performance similar to that of cotton spinning, the pore distribution of the fabric is too uniform, and the appearance of the non-cotton product; and the bending stiffness is too large, the non-cotton product Soft feeling.

Claims (3)

一種聚酯纖維長絲,其特徵是:所述聚酯纖維長絲由假撚方向撚區和反方向撚區交替形成,其中,假撚方向撚區的平均長度為0.3cm以下、長度變異係數為60%以上、直徑為反方向撚區直徑的30%至70%、且長度為所述聚酯纖維長絲總長度的20.0%至40.0%。A polyester fiber filament, characterized in that the polyester fiber filament is alternately formed by a false twist direction twist zone and a reverse direction twist zone, wherein the average length of the false twist direction twist zone is 0.3 cm or less and the length variation coefficient It is 60% or more, the diameter is 30% to 70% of the diameter of the twist zone in the reverse direction, and the length is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester fiber filament. 如請求項1之聚酯纖維長絲,其中,所述聚酯纖維長絲的總纖度為56至220dtex、單絲纖度為1.30dtex以下。The polyester fiber filament according to claim 1, wherein the polyester fiber filament has a total fineness of 56 to 220 dtex and a monofilament fineness of 1.30 dtex or less. 一種用於製造請求項1或2之聚酯纖維長絲的方法,包括下述步驟:將聚酯纖維預取向絲導入第一羅拉,然後導入第一熱箱中加熱,再依次導入假撚器、第二羅拉、第二熱箱、第三羅拉,得到所述聚酯纖維長絲;其中第一熱箱中的溫度為230至250℃;並且,前述步驟中的D/Y比為1.5至2.5。A method for manufacturing polyester fiber filaments of claim 1 or 2, comprising the steps of: introducing a polyester fiber pre-oriented yarn into a first roller, then introducing it into a first hot box for heating, and then sequentially introducing a false twister , The second roller, the second hot box, and the third roller to obtain the polyester fiber filament; wherein the temperature in the first hot box is 230 to 250 ° C; and the D / Y ratio in the foregoing step is 1.5 to 2.5.
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