CN107109722A - A kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric, polyester filament and its production method - Google Patents
A kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric, polyester filament and its production method Download PDFInfo
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- CN107109722A CN107109722A CN201580062496.8A CN201580062496A CN107109722A CN 107109722 A CN107109722 A CN 107109722A CN 201580062496 A CN201580062496 A CN 201580062496A CN 107109722 A CN107109722 A CN 107109722A
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- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 159
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 107
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 7
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 78
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 63
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 29
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 claims description 23
- 230000003746 surface roughness Effects 0.000 claims description 22
- 230000006835 compression Effects 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000007906 compression Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 230000008676 import Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 abstract description 15
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 47
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 38
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 24
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 23
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 22
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 22
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 21
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 18
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 15
- 210000003049 pelvic bone Anatomy 0.000 description 13
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 12
- 206010016322 Feeling abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 11
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 11
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- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
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- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 206010037660 Pyrexia Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
- D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
- D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
- D02G1/0266—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting false-twisting machines
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/0005—Materials specially adapted for outerwear made from a plurality of interconnected elements
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
- D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/06—Non-run fabrics or articles
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
- A41D2500/10—Knitted
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
- D01F6/88—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
- D01F6/92—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
- D02G1/0286—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns
- D02G1/0293—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns composed, at least in part, of natural fibres
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
A kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric, polyester filament and its production method.The weft-knitted fabric that the fabric weaves for the knitted material of the polyester filament more than comprising at least 45% weight；The pore area of the fabric is distributed with 6000~22000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 more than σ, and the coefficient of variation of pore area is more than 40%.The polyester filament is by false twisting direction sth. made by twisting area (1,3) area (2) are twisted with the fingers and are alternatively formed with opposite direction, wherein, 30%~70% and the total length that the average length in false twisting direction sth. made by twisting area (1,3) is below 0.3cm, length variation coefficient is more than 60%, a diameter of opposite direction sth. made by twisting area's diameter are the 20.0%~40.0% of the polyester filament total length.The knitting fabric has extremely strong cotton feel, and with good gas permeability, rupture strength, water-absorbing fast-drying and anti-uv-ray.
Description
The present invention relates to a kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric, polyester filament and its production methods, and in particular to a kind of suitable imitative cotton knitted fabric for making T-shirt and the polyester filament used as its raw material.
Currently, knitted T-shirt in the market mostly based on cotton fiber, for opposite chemical fibre T-shirt, has the advantages that good flexibility and water imbibition two are big, but in use, the shortcomings that cotton product, is also gradually exposed, such as gas permeability and rapid-drying properties it is all poor.In addition, being continuously increased with market demand, there are certain pressure for the supply of cotton fiber, while the plantation of cotton is easy the influence of climate, so that the supply of cotton raw material has very big unstability.Therefore, cotton fiber is replaced using chemical fibre, producing has the shortcomings that the advantages of cotton and can solve the imitative cotton knitted fabric of cotton again to be necessary.
Currently, the research about imitative cotton knitted fabric is also more.As disclosed a kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric and its production method in patent document CN103898670A, by using pure polyester spun yarn, polyester-cotton blend spun yarn and spandex carry out shuffling, the fabric weaved into is handled by high temperature Alkali reduction process, obtain good soft feeling and stronger cotton sense, substantially increase water-absorbing fast-drying, the deficiency of " bored " can be generated when wearing by improving chemical fiber plus material, but high temperature alkali decrement treatment can dissolve the filoplume of web surface, reduce the filoplume sense of fabric, and treatment temperature is high, it needs using caustic soda, it can not achieve the purpose of " energy-saving and emission-reduction ", increase processing cost；In addition, braiding raw materials are largely staple fibers, the gas permeability and rupture strength of fabric will affect.
A kind of super imitative cotton suction of jacquard weave air layer is for another example disclosed in patent document CN102517775A
Wet fever is knitted fabric, at least use the scribbled formed by Porel fiber (capillary terylene long fibre) and cellulose fibre, and the content of cellulose fibre is 50%~60% in the mixed yarn, therefore gained knitting fabric imitates cotton effect and water-absorbing fast-drying is all very superior, but since Porel fiber used belongs to special functional fiber, content is relatively high, increases production cost.
In addition, also having at present by carrying out false twisting working process to polyester filament, make yarn that there is the technology of certain natural fiber style.As disclosed a kind of processed filament by carrying out obtaining soft and surface and melting false twisting with concave-convex sense to polyester filament in patent document CN103603113A, fabric as made from it has sand type, hollow out sense, but since the coefficient of variation that section length is twisted in the false twisting direction of yarn is too small, gained fabric pore area is evenly distributed, reflecting feel is strong, does not have cotton products appearance and feel；A kind of terylene part is for another example disclosed in patent document special open 2000-303287 melts silk, the twirl portion alternately presence in the twirl portion in false twisting direction, non-twist portion of crispaturaing, backtwisting direction, yam surface does not see slubbing substantially, reflecting feel reduces, solve the cloth cover inhomogeneity and coarse feel of picotement fabric, but to control among the twirl portion in false twisting direction and the twirl portion in backtwisting direction that there are non-twist portion of crispaturaing is relatively difficult, it processes cumbersome, at high cost, and fabric picotement as made from it is strong, cannot have the feel and appearance to match in excellence or beauty with cotton products.
Summary of the invention
In view of the above problems, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of polyester filaments that the processing is simple, soft, natural fiber sense is strong, and cotton excellent result and the imitative cotton knitted fabric with good gas permeability, rupture strength, water-absorbing fast-drying and anti-uv-ray are imitated as made from it.
Technical solution of the invention:
Imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention, for the weft-knitted fabric as made of the knitted material braiding comprising at least polyester filament of 45 weight % or more；The pore area distribution of the fabric with 6000~
22000μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, and the coefficient of variation of pore area is greater than 40%.
Polyester filament of the invention, area is twisted by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction to be alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.3cm or less, the coefficient of variation is 60% or more, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists false twisting direction twirl area in 30%~70% and polyester filament of area's diameter is the 20.0%~40.0% of the polyester filament total length.
The pore area distribution of imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention is consistent with product containing cotton, the appearance with the product containing cotton；Simultaneously because there is good gas permeability (JISL1096-2010 standard A method: 75~150cm compared with staple fiber product using polyester filament as primary raw material again3/cm2/ s) and rupture strength (JISL1096-2010 standard: 700kpa or more)；There is superior water-absorbing fast-drying compared with product containing cotton (residual moisture rate is 10% or less after Ke Kenfa: 60min)；Furthermore, the inhomogenous diffusing reflection effect for improving fabric of the diameter of the polyester filament as used in the present invention, and terylene inherently has anti-ultraviolet aromatic ring molecular structure, therefore the uvioresistant performance of fabric is excellent (Australian Standard AS/NZS4399-1996:UPF value is 45 or more).Fabric of the invention is especially suitable for making T-shirt etc..In addition, the processing method of polyester filament of the invention is simple and easy, soft, natural fiber sense is strong.
Fig. 1 is the length direction side aspect graph of polyester filament of the invention.Wherein: 1 is false twisting direction twirl area, and 2 twist area for opposite direction, and 3 be false twisting direction twirl area.
Fig. 2 is the flow process chart of polyester filament of the invention.Wherein 4 be terylene pre-oriented fiber POY, and 5 be the 1st roller, and 6 be the 1st hot tank, and 7 be scroll tube, and 8 be sliver on the move, and 9 be the 2nd roller, and 10 be the 2nd hot tank, and 11 be the 3rd roller, and 12 (add for polyester filament and play processed filament DTY), and 13 be rolling tube.
Knitting fabric of the invention is the weft-knitted fabric as made of the knitted material braiding comprising at least polyester filament of 45 weight % or more, and pore area is distributed with 6000~22000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, and the coefficient of variation of pore area is greater than 40%.
In view of the processing is simple, low in cost for polyester filament in chemical fibre；Compared to terylene short fiber fabric, the performances such as gas permeability, rupture strength of polyester filament fabric are all more superior, therefore as knitted material of the invention.Furthermore, it is contemplated that weft organization has preferably elasticity and soft comfortable compared to other kinds of tissue, therefore as braiding tissue of the invention.
For in knitted material of the invention, the content of polyester filament used is less than 45%, and the hole of fabric reduces, and gas permeability can reduce, and influences snugness of fit；Moreover, the appearance of the imitative product containing cotton cannot be obtained, the distribution center of pore area is not at 6000~22000 μm2It is interior.
In the present invention, the pore area of fabric is distributed with 6000~22000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, and the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is greater than 40%, consistent with the appearance of the product containing cotton.When the pore area distribution center of fabric is less than 6000 μm2When, illustrate that the hole of fabric becomes smaller, tightness degree becomes larger, fabric hand feel is really up to the mark and leads to cotton sense reduction；In addition, fabric too closely when fabric gas permeability reduce, elasticity weaken, greatly reduce snugness of fit.When the pore area distribution center of fabric is greater than 22000 μm2When, illustrate that the hole of fabric becomes larger, fabric is excessively loose, is unable to reach pelvic bone sense, the requirement of solid sense of the product containing cotton.Within pore area is dispersed in 2 σ, the fabric pore area coefficient of variation is less than 40%, illustrate that fabric pore size is uniform, concave-convex sense is weak, and the reflecting feel of fabric is stronger (i.e. chemical fibre sense is strong), this is disagreed with low gloss sense possessed by product containing cotton.
To make the distribution of pores of fabric closer to product containing cotton, polyester filament content used in the present invention
Preferably 100%.Polyester filament content used is bigger, and the distribution of pore area is more uneven, can more imitate the appearance and feel of pure cotton staple fabric.Certainly it can also be used to hand over such as terylene short fiber yarn, spun yarn of natural fiber etc. with polyester filament used in the present invention in the present invention and compile to achieve the effect that imitative cotton.
It is preferred that, polyester filament used in the present invention, area is twisted by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction to be alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.3cm or less, length variation coefficient is 60% or more, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists false twisting direction twirl area in 30%~70% and polyester filament of area's diameter is the 20.0%~40.0% of the polyester filament total length.Such polyester filament not only appearance, and properties are also close with cotton spun yarn.Here false twisting direction twirl area refers to that the backtwisting part that area refers to yarn is twisted in the non-backtwisting part of yarn, opposite direction.
Polyester filament used in the present invention, if the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is greater than 0.3cm, false twisting direction twirl area proportion increases on length of yarn direction, and yarn is opposite to attenuate and be hardened, although the pelvic bone sense of fabric as made from it increases, feel has the tendency that being hardened.
Polyester filament used in the present invention, if length variation coefficient (C.V) is less than 60%, the pore area of fabric as made from it, which is distributed with, becomes uniform trend, it is possible to the phenomenon that imitative cotton decreased effectiveness occurs, it is difficult to obtain imitative cotton appearance.
Polyester filament used in the present invention, the ratio that the diameter in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for the diameter that opposite direction twists area is smaller, that is the difference of the diameter in diameter and opposite direction the twirl area in false twisting direction twirl area is bigger, and the area distributions of fabric hole are more uneven, and the appearance of fabric is closer to product containing cotton；But the ratio of area's diameter is twisted less than 30% if the diameter in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for opposite direction, it is excessive that the diameter in false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction twist area's diameter difference, it is possible to cause the hole of fabric excessive, densification sense decline influences to imitate cotton effect.If the diameter in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for opposite direction twirl
If the ratio of area's diameter is greater than 70%, the difference for the diameter that diameter and the opposite direction in false twisting direction twirl area twist area is little, it is possible to cause the distribution of pores of fabric excessively uniform, influence the appearance of imitative cotton；In addition, it is also possible to cause the diameter of the opposite direction false twist zone of yarn to attenuate, so that the pliability of fabric reduces.
In addition, polyester filament used in the present invention, the ratio that the total length in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for polyester filament total length is smaller, can more assign the good fluffy sense of fabric and soft feeling.If false twisting direction twirl area proportion is less than 20%, although the fluffy sense of fabric is improved with soft feeling, it is possible that will appear the problem of pelvic bone sense reduces, it is unable to reach the pelvic bone sense of cotton product and the unification of soft feeling；And if false twisting direction twirl area proportion is greater than 40%, although the pelvic bone sense of fabric increases, it is possible that will appear the problem of soft feeling reduces, equally it is unable to reach the pelvic bone sense of cotton product and the unification of soft feeling.
The total fiber number of polyester filament used in the present invention is 56~220dtex.When total fiber number is less than 56dtex, the pore area of fabric as made from it becomes smaller, pore area difference reduces, and fabric thickness is thinning, it is possible to which not imitative cotton appearance and feel weaken；And total fiber number is when being greater than 220dtex, the hole of fabric as made from it becomes larger, it is possible to can not obtain the fine and close sense such as cotton product, and fabric is excessively thick and solid, imitate cotton less effective.
The filament number of polyester filament used in the present invention is preferably smaller than 1.3dtex.If filament number is greater than 1.3dtex, it is possible to will affect the fine and smooth feel of fabric, reduce imitative cotton effect.
Fabric of the invention is obtained by weaving to be refined, dye, be formed etc. to process again after single above-mentioned polyester filament braiding or the above-mentioned polyester filament merging of double joint, can guarantee that the fine and close sense of fabric is reached uniformly with distribution of pores in this way.It is woven as double joint feeding using the above-mentioned polyester filament of 56~100dtex, can be used；If for another example using the above-mentioned polyester filament of 100~220dtex,
Single feeding can be used to be woven.
In order to enable the feel of fabric is closer to cotton product, imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention is obtained preferably through fluffing process engineering.Fluffing processing device therefor is not particularly limited, and Italian Sperotto rubber roughing-up machine, 5~30m/min of speed, 0.4~0.6MPa of tension, 160~240# of rubber mesh number can be used.
It is preferred that the bending stiffness (B) of imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention is 0.015~0.045Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 3~6 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.2~0.8Ncm/cm2, these performances are consistent with cotton T-shirt fabric available on the market.Even if the present invention solves ordinary polyester long filament and imitates cotton face fabric surface roughness as product containing cotton, bending stiffness and compression ratio function are but unable to reach the technological difficulties of cotton product requirement.Here bending stiffness refers to the hard and soft of fabric, embodies the pelvic bone sense of fabric, numerical value is bigger, and fabric rigidity is bigger, and cotton products have both certain soft feeling and pelvic bone sense；Surface roughness refers to the planarization of web surface, and the small expression fabric hand feel of numerical value is smooth, otherwise coarse；Compression ratio function refers to the fluffy sense of fabric, and numerical value is bigger, then it represents that fabric is more fluffy.
Imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention, braiding tissue are not particularly limited, and to assign fabric certain fine and close sense, organize plain stitch or pearl can be used, preferably plain stitch.
Polyester filament of the invention can comprise the following steps: terylene pre-oriented fiber POY being heated according to the process of attached drawing 2 by entering the first hot tank after first roller, then successively obtains product through importing scroll tube, the second roller, the second hot tank, third roller；Wherein the temperature in the first hot tank is 230~250 DEG C；D/Y ratio is 1.5~2.5.In foregoing sequence, carrying out speed, there is no limit, but is preferably 300~500m/min for convenience of operating；Extension ratio does not also limit, but is preferably 1.10~2.00 for convenience of operating.
It can be obtained by methods known in the art for the terylene pre-oriented fiber POY in foregoing sequence, commercially available terylene chips raw material can be used for example, carry out dissolving spinning to obtain.The speed for dissolving spinning can be suitable for setting, and the speed of preferably 2500~3500m/min carries out.The fiber number and monofilament radical of obtained terylene pre-oriented fiber POY is not particularly limited, but for convenient for obtaining being suitable for the invention polyester filament, and it is preferably 70~280 that the fiber number of terylene pre-oriented fiber POY, which is preferably 70~280dtex, monofilament radical,.
In above-mentioned process, when the temperature of the first hot tank is lower than 230 DEG C, although the average length in false twisting direction twirl area can control in 0.3cm or less but its total length accounts for the ratio regular meeting of polyester filament total length less than 20%, fabric soft feeling as made from it is improved, pelvic bone sense weakens, and can not obtain the feel of imitative cotton；And, the diameter proportion that false twisting direction twirl area accounts for opposite direction twirl area also can be less than 30%, the diameter difference in two regions becomes larger, although the pore area of fabric can in this way, which be distributed, becomes more uneven, but it also results in that the part pore area in fabric is excessive simultaneously, cannot achieve the fine and close sense as cotton product.And if the temperature of the first hot tank is higher than 250 DEG C, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is more than 0.3cm, and the ratio of its total length Zhan Changsi overall length also can be more than 40%, although fabric pelvic bone sense as made from it is improved, but pliability but substantially reduces, and can not equally obtain the feel of imitative cotton.If the ratio that the diameter in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for the diameter that opposite direction twists area is greater than 70%, the diameter of the opposite direction false twist zone of yarn becomes smaller, and yarn is whole excessively stiff, influences the imitative cotton effect (pliability) of fabric.
If obtaining imitative cotton knot effect, the coefficient of variation (C.V) that section length is twisted in the false twisting direction of polyester filament needs to control 60% or more, therefore in process, D/Y ratio needs to be set as 1.5~2.5.Here D/Y ratio refers to the superficial velocity of disc stack divided by 2 surface of roller speed.If D/Y ratio is less than 1.5, untwister tension is excessive, and false twisting direction twirl area is destroyed,
Its distribution of lengths becomes excessively uniformly, cause the coefficient of variation (C.V) too small, when the coefficient of variation (C.V) is less than 60%, the pore area of fabric as made from it, which is distributed with, becomes uniform trend, like the decreased effectiveness of cotton knot, it is possible to the appearance of the product containing cotton can not be obtained；And if D/Y ratio is greater than 2.5, untwister tension is too small, and yarn quality not can guarantee.
It is preferred that the fiber number of polyester filament of the invention is 56~220dtex.If fiber number is less than 56dtex, that is raw materials used silk is thinner, in the first hot tank false-twisted process, raw material thread is meticulous may to be generated and excessive melts false twisting phenomenon, cause opposite direction twirl area during backtwisting to be difficult to backtwisting, its diameter is made to become smaller, the diameter difference in false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction twirl area becomes smaller, become smaller by the pore area of its fabric formed and the area discrepancy of hole has the unconspicuous tendency of change, it is possible to be difficult to obtain the appearance of the product containing cotton；In addition, it is also possible to the average length that will lead to false twisting direction twirl area, which is greater than 0.3cm, its total length ratio shared on long filament total length, is higher than 40%, such polyester filament feel can be harder, although the fabric pelvic bone sense formed by it is improved, but is difficult to obtain the soft feeling such as product containing cotton.If fiber number is greater than 220dtex, namely raw materials used silk is thicker, in the first hot tank false-twisted process, raw material thread may slightly generate the phenomenon that not melting sufficiently excessively, so the diameter of opposite direction false twist zone opposite will become larger, and the ratio that the diameter in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for the diameter that opposite direction twists area may be less than 30%, then the diameter difference in two regions just becomes larger, also just become larger by the pore area of its fabric formed, the fine and close sense such as product containing cotton has a declining tendency；In addition, it is also possible to which less than 20%, fabric as made from it is difficult to obtain the pelvic bone sense of the product containing cotton the ratio for keeping the total length in false twisting direction twirl area shared on long filament total length.
Simultaneously preferably, the filament number of polyester filament of the invention is 1.30dtex or less.When the first heater temperature is set as 230~250 DEG C, D/Y ratio is set as 1.5~2.5, if final products
If the filament number of polyester filament is greater than 1.30dtex, the filament number of raw material thread is also just bigger, polyester filament appearance etc. as made from above-mentioned processing conditions is close with cotton yarn, the distribution of pores of fabric as made from it is also close with product containing cotton, but since filament number is relatively high, the fine and smooth sense that may contain cotton product is difficult to obtain.
Embodiment
The test method of each parameter involved in the present invention is as follows:
(1) standard variance of the pore area of fabric and pore area central value of distribution
1. preparing sample: sample cloth of the clip having a size of 20cm × 20cm, surfacing from fabric；
2. the cloth cover photo of sample is shot under 50 times of camera lenses of digit microscope (KEYENCE company),
(a) brightness of sample is adjusted between 1/3~2/3 by the Value knobs on rotation control panel.When less than 1/3, exposure rate is too small, and the photo of sample is excessively dim, and the hole on sample can not identify；When greater than 2/3, exposure rate is excessive, and the hole on same sample can not also identify；
(b) camera lens is adjusted to 50 times, and passes through the clarity that sample is adjusted to focus knob on rotation XY platform or control panel, it is ensured that hole understands on sample.When the multiplying power of camera lens is too small, the appearance area of sample hole is too small, influences the precision of next step luminance extraction pore area；And lens ratio it is excessively high when, the gross area of captured sample photo is too small, and the number of hole is few, influences the actual distribution precision of pore area；
(c) picture is saved, the area of the fabric presented in gained picture is about 3.6 × 107μm2；
3. providing the luminance extraction method in the automatically measuring area function of VHX-2000/Ver2.35 software using KEYENCE company；
(a) automatically measuring area button is clicked；
(b) luminance extraction method is chosen, the luminance area figure of sample photo is extracted；
(c) " dark " option in interface is chosen, the hole figure in photo is obtained；
(d) adjusting threshold value is capped the hole of sample just, and the range of threshold value is -80~+80；
Threshold value is too small or crossing can not mostly be such that the practical pore size of sample is just capped, and when threshold value is too small, the pore area of measurement is smaller than actual area；When excessive, then the pore area measured is bigger than real area；
(e) it finally clicks " next step " and obtains the area data of sample hole, save data.And record sample pore area standard variance σ and pore area central value of distribution μ (unit: μm2)。
(2) coefficient of variation
1. the coefficient of variation of fabric pore area:
Standard variance σ ÷ pore area central value of distribution μ × 100% of pore area.
2. the coefficient of variation of polyester filament false twisting direction twirl section length:
Twist average value mu × 100% of section length in the ÷ false twisting direction standard variance σ that section length is twisted in the coefficient of variation=false twisting direction that section length is twisted in false twisting direction.
Wherein, randomly select the polyester filament of 50cm, then the length for measuring 20 groups of false twisting directions twirl area finally calculates standard variance σ and length average value mu (test method is referring to " length in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for the ratio of polyester filament total length on (7) polyester filament " hereafter).
(3) bending stiffness
According to KES FB2 method.(KES Fabric Style instrument is the Fabric Style instrument manufactured and designed by Kyoto Univ Japan professor river end doctor Ji Xiong, and wherein FB2 is bending property tester.)
(4) surface roughness
According to KES FB4 method.(KES Fabric Style instrument is the Fabric Style instrument manufactured and designed by Kyoto Univ Japan professor river end doctor Ji Xiong, and wherein FB4 is friction and surface roughness tester.)
(5) compression ratio function
According to KES FB3 method.(KES Fabric Style instrument is the Fabric Style instrument manufactured and designed by Kyoto Univ Japan professor river end doctor Ji Xiong, and wherein FB3 is compression performance and Thickness measuring instrument.)
(6) diameter in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for the ratio that opposite direction twists area's diameter on polyester filament
The polyester filament of the invention for choosing 5 20cm is randomly selected from fabric, using the digit microscope of KEYENCE company, the measuring tool under 50 times of camera lenses using KEYENCE numeral system measures the diameter that false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction on every polyester filament twist area.Every polyester filament measures 5 groups of data and calculates every average of relatives value, and 5 all measurements calculate total average of relatives value after getting well again.
(7) length in false twisting direction twirl area accounts for the ratio of polyester filament total length on polyester filament
The polyester filament of the invention for choosing 5 50cm is randomly selected from fabric, it is subject to the tension of 0.1g/D respectively to every root long silk, recycle the length in false twisting direction twirl area on EIB-E (the model LAWSON-HEMPHILL of Lawson-Hai Mofeier company) measurement long filament, every polyester filament measures 5 groups of data and calculates every length ratio average value, and 5 all measurements calculate final length ratio average value after getting well again.
(8) pliability of polyester filament
By 20 people carry out sensory evaluation, according to the softness of long filament be divided into it is excellent, good, in, poor 4 grades.Wherein, think long filament softness then more than or equal to 15 people and be excellent, 10~14 people be then it is good, 5~10 be in, less than 5 people be then poor.
Below with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；Then the condition that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.13cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 78%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 43% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 31.3% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 2
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 252dtex, monofilament radical is 278；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 200dtex, monofilament radical is 278, filament number is 0.72dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.10cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 78%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 40% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 22.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 3
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 71dtex, monofilament radical is 78；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 56dtex, monofilament radical is 78, filament number is 0.72dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.18cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 55% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 35.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 4
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 232 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.10cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is that 77%, diameter is that opposite direction twists area's diameter 39%, the total length in false twisting direction twirl area is the 21.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 5
It terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with 2800m/min speed, obtain that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144 to wash
Synthetic fibre POY；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 245 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.25cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 78%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 54% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 38.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 6
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.6 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.25cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 61%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 56% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 38.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 7
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；It then is 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature
For 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio be 2.3 processing conditions carry out false twisting processing, obtain the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.10cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is that 90%, diameter is that opposite direction twists area's diameter 38%, the total length in false twisting direction twirl area is the 21.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 8
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 169dtex, monofilament radical is 96；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 134dtex, monofilament radical is 96, filament number is 1.40dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.12cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 40% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 28.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 1
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 40dtex, monofilament radical is 36；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 28dtex, monofilament radical is 36, filament number is 0.78dtex
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.31cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is that 78%, diameter is that opposite direction twists area's diameter 80%, the total length in false twisting direction twirl area is the 42.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 2
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 410dtex, monofilament radical is 288；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 250dtex, monofilament radical is 288, filament number is 0.87dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.08cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 28% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 18.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 3
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 252 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained terylene false twisting long filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.35cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 79%, straight
Diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 78% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 42.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 4
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 225 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.9 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.06cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 80%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 26% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 18.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 5
Terylene chips raw material (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) is selected, and carries out dissolving spinning with the speed of 2800m/min, obtains the polyester POY that fiber number is 128dtex, monofilament radical is 144；Then the processing conditions that be 400m/min with speed according to the process of attached drawing 2, the first heater temperature is 238 DEG C, extension ratio 1.26, D/Y ratio are 1.3 carries out false twisting processing, obtains the polyester filament that fiber number is 100dtex, monofilament radical is 144, filament number is 0.69dtex.
Gained polyester filament is twisted area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction and is alternatively formed, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.38cm, length variation coefficient (C.V) is 55%, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists the 68% of area's diameter, false twisting direction twirl area is the 55.0% of polyester filament total length, is specifically shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 9
Select polyester filament of the ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of the 56dtex-78f of 55 weight % with the embodiment 3 of 45 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, then (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72 seconds), fluffing processing are refined, imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention is obtained.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 6000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 41%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.025Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 4.1 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.35Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Embodiment 10
Select polyester filament of the 200dtex-278f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 55 weight % with the embodiment 2 of 45 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 15000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 47%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.015Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 3.0 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.80Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Embodiment 11
Polyester filament of the 100dtex-144f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 35 weight % with the embodiment 7 of 65 weight % is selected, in one-side circular knitting
Plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on machine, then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S) obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 14000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 51%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.024Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 3.8 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.75Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Embodiment 12
Select polyester filament of the 100dtex-144f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 35 weight % with the embodiment 6 of 65 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S) obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 13000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 48%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.034Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 4.9 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.30Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Embodiment 13
Select the polyester filament of the embodiment 3 of 100 weight %, by way of double yarns merge, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 6900 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 58%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.045Ncm2/cm、
Surface roughness (SMD) is 6.0 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.20Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Embodiment 14
Select the polyester filament of the embodiment 2 of 100 weight %, India group is woven on one-side circular knitting machine braiding and obtains fabric, is then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric of the invention.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 22000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 63%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.037Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 5.1 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.50Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Embodiment 15
Select the polyester filament of the embodiment 8 of 100 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, is then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 19000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 64%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.046Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 6.3 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.48Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Comparative example 6
Select polyester filament of the 56dtex-78f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 60 weight % with the embodiment 3 of 40 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C ×
30min), it is formed (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtains imitative cotton knitted fabric.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 4600 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 30%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.012Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 2.1 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.36Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Comparative example 7
Select polyester filament of the 200dtex-278f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 60 weight % with the embodiment 2 of 40 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, is then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 12000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 35%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.008Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 1.8 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.85Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Comparative example 8
Select polyester filament of the 28dtex-36f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 55 weight % with the comparative example 1 of 45 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, is then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S) obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 4200 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 27%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.030Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 5.0 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.18Ncm/cm2.Institute
It obtains each performance parameter of fabric and is shown in Table 2.
Comparative example 9
Select polyester filament of the 250dtex-288f ordinary polyester false twist processing yarn (eastern beautiful synthetic fibers (Nantong) Co., Ltd system) of 55 weight % with the comparative example 2 of 45 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, is then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72S), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 25000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 51%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.007Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 1.6 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.90Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
Comparative example 10
Select the polyester filament of the comparative example 6 of 100 weight %, plain stitch weaves to obtain fabric on one-side circular knitting machine, is then refined (80 DEG C × 20min), dyeing (98 DEG C × 30min), sizing (160 DEG C × 72 seconds), fluffing processing obtain imitative cotton knitted fabric.
The pore area of gained fabric is distributed with 8000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, the coefficient of variation (C.V) of pore area is 25%, and bending stiffness (B) is 0.050Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness (SMD) are 7.1 μ, compression ratio function (WC) is 0.15Ncm/cm2.Each performance parameter of gained fabric is shown in Table 2.
As shown in Table 1
(1) higher by embodiment 1, embodiment 2 and total fiber number it can be seen from embodiment 3, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is shorter, and proportion is fewer on long filament, and with the diameter in opposite direction twirl area than smaller, but length variation coefficient is basically unchanged.
(2) it can be seen that by embodiment 1, embodiment 4 and embodiment 5, when being processed to same polyester POY using identical false twisting speed, extension ratio and D/Y ratio, first heater temperature is higher, the average length in the false twisting direction twirl area of gained polyester filament is relatively elongated, proportion becomes more on long filament, the diameter ratio for twisting area with opposite direction becomes larger, but length variation coefficient is close.
(3) it can be seen that by embodiment 1, embodiment 6 and embodiment 7, when being processed to same polyester POY using identical false twisting speed, the first heater temperature and extension ratio, D/Y ratio is higher, the average length in the false twisting direction twirl area of gained polyester filament is smaller, proportion is fewer on long filament, diameter with opposite direction twirl area is than smaller, and length variation coefficient is bigger, and yarn is more soft.
(4) when filament number is more than 1.3dtex it can be seen from embodiment 8, although yarn appearance, performance indexes and cotton spun yarn are close, yarn feel is deteriorated.
(5) it when polyester filament total fiber number is too small or excessive it can be seen from comparative example 1, comparative example 2, can not obtain and appearance similar in cotton spun yarn and performance；It is too small to will form terylene stiff yarn entirely, it is excessive, become ordinary polyester false twist yarn.
(6) it can be seen from comparative example 3 when the first heater temperature is more than 250 DEG C, yarn is entirely stiff, firmly；By comparative example 4 it can be seen that yarn is excessively fluffy, close to ordinary polyester false twist yarn when the first heater temperature is lower than 230 DEG C.
(7) it can be seen from comparative example 5 when D/Y ratio is less than 1.5, cannot obtain with appearance similar in cotton spun yarn and performance, yarn is stiff.
As shown in Table 2:
(1) under identical fiber number it can be seen from embodiment 9 and embodiment 13, embodiment 10 and embodiment 14, the content of yarn 2 increases, and the pore area of fabric becomes larger, pore area distribution variation coefficient becomes larger；Bending stiffness becomes larger, surface roughness becomes larger, compression ratio function becomes smaller, i.e., imitative cotton effect becomes strong.
(2) 2 diameter of yarn is bigger than the coefficient of variation that section length is twisted in smaller, false twisting direction it can be seen from embodiment 11 and embodiment 12, and the hole of fabric is bigger, and the coefficient of variation of the pore area of fabric is bigger, and i.e. distribution is more uneven；In addition, false twisting direction is twisted, section length shortens, proportion tails off, and the flexibility of fabric increases, and bending stiffness reduces, surface roughness reduces, the increase of compression ratio function is that fluffy degree increases.
(3) 2 fiber number of yarn is bigger it can be seen from embodiment 9 and embodiment 10, diameter is bigger than smaller, fabric pore area, and the pore area coefficient of variation is bigger, and i.e. distribution is more uneven；The average length in false twisting direction twirl area is shorter, proportion is smaller, and the bending stiffness of fabric is smaller, and surface roughness is smaller, and the smaller i.e. fluffy degree of compression ratio function is bigger.
(4) although the distribution of pores of fabric is close to product containing cotton it can be seen from embodiment 15, since the filament number of yarn 2 is more than 1.3dtex, web surface roughness ratio is larger, affects imitative cotton effect.
(5) when the content of yarn 2 is lower than 45% it can be seen from comparative example 6 and comparative example 7, cannot obtain with the coefficient of variation of the consistent pore area of product containing cotton, therefore do not have the appearance of cotton product.
(6) cause fabric that can not obtain and the consistent appearance of product containing cotton since yarn 2 used is ordinary polyester stiff yarn entirely it can be seen from comparative example 8 (pore area and the pore area coefficient of variation are too small)；And fabric fluffy degree is too small, the soft feeling as no cotton product.
(7) used yarn 2 close to ordinary polyester false twist yarn causes the pore area of fabric excessive it can be seen from comparative example 9, the fine and close sense of no cotton product；And the bending stiffness of fabric is insufficient, the pelvic bone sense of no cotton product.
(8) since yarn 2 used does not have and appearance similar in cotton spun yarn and performance, so the distribution of pores of fabric is excessively uniform, the appearance of no cotton product it can be seen from comparative example 10；And bending stiffness is excessive, the soft feeling of no cotton product.
Claims (10)
- A kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric, it is characterized in that: the fabric is the weft-knitted fabric as made of the knitted material braiding comprising polyester filament more than at least 45% weight；The pore area of the fabric is distributed with 6000~22000 μm2Centered on, be dispersed in 2 σ or more, and the coefficient of variation of pore area is greater than 40%.
- Imitative cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the content of the polyester filament is 100 weight %.
- Imitative cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, it is alternatively formed it is characterized in that: the polyester filament twists area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.3cm or less, length variation coefficient is 60% or more, diameter is that the total length that opposite direction twists false twisting direction twirl area in 30%~70% and the polyester filament of area's diameter is the 20.0%~40.0% of the polyester filament total length.
- Imitative cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: the total fiber number of the polyester filament is 56~220dtex, filament number is 1.30dtex or less.
- Imitative cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: the fabric is fluffing product.
- Imitative cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2 obtains it is characterized in that: the fabric weaves after being merged by one filament braiding or double joint long filament.
- Imitative cotton knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: the bending stiffness of the fabric is 0.015~0.045Ncm2/ cm, surface roughness are 3.0~6.0 μ, compression ratio function is 0.20~0.80Ncm/cm2。
- A kind of polyester filament, it is alternatively formed it is characterized in that: the polyester filament twists area by false twisting direction twirl area and opposite direction, wherein, the average length in false twisting direction twirl area is 0.3cm or less, length variation coefficient is 60% or more, diameter is that 30%~70% and length that opposite direction twists area's diameter are the 20.0%~40.0% of the polyester filament total length.
- Polyester filament according to claim 8, it is characterized in that: the total fiber number of the polyester filament is 56~220dtex, filament number is 1.30dtex or less.
- A method of for polyester filament described in manufacturing claims 8 or 9, include the following steps:Terylene pre-oriented fiber is imported into first roller, is then introduced into the first hot tank and heats, then successively imports scroll tube, the second roller, the second hot tank, third roller, obtains the polyester filament；Wherein the temperature in the first hot tank is 230~250 DEG C；Also, the D/Y ratio in abovementioned steps is 1.5~2.5.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201910404601.1A CN111206328B (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2015-12-11 | Cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and production method thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201410763413.5 | 2014-12-12 | ||
| CN201410763413.5A CN105734805A (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2014-12-12 | Cottonlike knitted fabric |
| PCT/CN2015/097077 WO2016091203A1 (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2015-12-11 | Imitation cotton-knitted fabric, terylene filament and production method therefor |
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| CN201910404601.1A Division CN111206328B (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2015-12-11 | Cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and production method thereof |
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| CN107109722A true CN107109722A (en) | 2017-08-29 |
| CN107109722B CN107109722B (en) | 2019-09-06 |
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| CN201410763413.5A Pending CN105734805A (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2014-12-12 | Cottonlike knitted fabric |
| CN201580062496.8A Active CN107109722B (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2015-12-11 | A kind of imitative cotton knitted fabric, polyester filament and its production method |
| CN201910404601.1A Active CN111206328B (en) | 2014-12-12 | 2015-12-11 | Cotton-like knitted fabric, polyester filament yarn and production method thereof |
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| US (1) | US20180237960A1 (en) |
| EP (1) | EP3231912A4 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP6577593B2 (en) |
| KR (1) | KR20170102888A (en) |
| CN (3) | CN105734805A (en) |
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| CN108070940B (en) * | 2016-11-10 | 2020-09-08 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Self-lubricating double-layer fabric and application thereof |
| CN108625025B (en) * | 2017-03-21 | 2020-12-01 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Cotton-like woven fabric |
| CN112824568B (en) * | 2019-11-21 | 2024-02-02 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN111270376A (en) * | 2020-03-24 | 2020-06-12 | 江苏润禾纺织实业有限公司 | Dry, comfortable, antibacterial and deodorant knitted fabric and preparation method thereof |
| WO2021226538A1 (en) * | 2020-05-07 | 2021-11-11 | Universal Fibers, Inc. | Heathered helix yarns |
| CN112267201A (en) * | 2020-11-06 | 2021-01-26 | 常州旭荣针织印染有限公司 | Production method of high-cost-performance linen-like fabric |
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Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| TWI677607B (en) | 2019-11-21 |
| US20180237960A1 (en) | 2018-08-23 |
| EP3231912A1 (en) | 2017-10-18 |
| WO2016091203A1 (en) | 2016-06-16 |
| TW201632685A (en) | 2016-09-16 |
| CN107109722B (en) | 2019-09-06 |
| CN111206328A (en) | 2020-05-29 |
| TW201932657A (en) | 2019-08-16 |
| JP6577593B2 (en) | 2019-09-18 |
| CN105734805A (en) | 2016-07-06 |
| EP3231912A4 (en) | 2018-08-29 |
| JP2018501414A (en) | 2018-01-18 |
| CN111206328B (en) | 2021-06-22 |
| TWI691627B (en) | 2020-04-21 |
| KR20170102888A (en) | 2017-09-12 |
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